Crank length is a big debating point for unicyclists where usually you have direct drive. On a unicycle, your only variables are wheel diameter, tyre section and crank length. As such, you find people riding with cranks from around 90 mm (high rpm, low torque) up to 170mm (high toque for hills, but low rpm) with most people choosing somewhere between 150mm and 110mm. However, the gains in rpm or torque have to be offset against the biomechanics of using a greater or lesser part of the range of movement available in your leg muscles. In terms of the maths, the difference between 170mm and 165 is negligible: around 3%, so the leverage and rpm issues are not critical. However, people with shorter legs will generally find slightly shorter cranks more comfortable.
Zach...your passion for fixed gear is really fun to see in your videos and I am with you on this. I have been riding bicycles for about 48 years of which the past eight years has been on a fixed gear bike. I can say, without a second of reservation, that riding fixed has been the greatest fun I have EVER had on a bicycle! And that is to say nothing of the wonderful practicality that comes with the simplicity of a fixed gear bike. ( No bottle bracket as well for me.)
When I rode 170s I had a few pedal strikes in corners. Never went down, but it was disconcerting. I now ride 165s and have yet hit no matter how far I lean. That's all I need to know. 165s forever.
Zach, I have been following your channel for a while now. I was immediately attracted by your natural charisma. You inspired me to buy a fixed gear bike and even fit it out with wide risers.You have a lot of talent and are really killing it these days. Keep up the good work, young man! You are sure to hit 100,000 subscribers.
I actually hydroplaned a couple times while going brakeless on my fixed gear, thank god I managed to not crash... It was on some super wet fresh asphalt and I was running slick tires though, not the smartest choice for rainy rides.
When I met up with my mate last he was building up a fixie he was super concerned about his tire being round the right way, his chain was perfectly tensioned and his bolts were perfectly torqued. I asked which grease he used... silence... I spent the next 2 hrs taking his bike apart and greasing it with ptfe grease. Then I cleaned and waxed his chain. Set up his bike so it fit him and finally went for a ride... On the way back I picked up a front break and a free wheel in 16 tooth at the local shop. He’ll get used to it one day... I ride track and fixed crits... I love my bike and wouldn’t change it for the world.
Great timing and info on the crank arm lengths. I've had a Wabi on order now and they've been most helpful on this exact topic. An accident years ago left me needing one crank arm smaller than the other. I'm excited to ride a real bike that actually fits.
Well explained. It took me years to discover all this on my own. As a recent fixed convert I use the same ratio most on geared bike for forty years. Shorter cranks easier on hips for me and bike fit has been a process. Hills are starting to actually look smaller to me! Not much slower than geared on long rides with less to break.
Great video Zach, thank you for giving me videos to look forward to. I think it is important to mention that buying used parts is not always the best option, especially for those looking to save money on carbon components...BAD IDEA, since these parts may be run down, cracked/broken, on the edge of failure, and most importantly unreasonably dangerous. I know you have a love for steel, and I figured you stick with more "durable" components made from metals and sturdier materials that weather well, but for those of you looking to buy used carbon parts that someone else has already bashed be careful and think twice to avoid catastrophic failures.
Brilliant Vid Again Zach, It's The Minimalism That Got Me Into Fixie. Although I Have A Flip-Flop Hub I Find Myself Riding Freewheel Most Because In Fixed I Lov It But I Get Tired Quicker. Ohh And Hungry, So Find Myself Eatin Lots More. Pleased You Covered The Crank Arm, THANK YOU. The Tyre Rotation Was Something I've Wandered For A While, Ta. Your A GREAT Guy.
Longer crank = Lower seat-post height. At 5’7” I use Cook Brothers 177mm on my Road bike. 175mm XT on my MTB. My Bmx i use all 180mm Profile euro-outboard 46x16tooth on 20” and 24” tires. I like a wide Q-factor and laid back seatpost on all my bikes. Gives u more room to bunny hop and manual 👍 I sold my 170mm and too a saw to the 165mm old school cranks because of knee pain🤣 never looked back!!!
Crank arm length doesn't affect the gear ratio, it's just the law of the lever. Greater distance from the fulcrum = greater moment of force on the pedals. It feels "easier" because you're applying more force. The gearing doesn't change.
I ride 155mm cranks. I like it mostly for fit related reasons. My knees don't come up as high so I have a nice time in the drops. It also makes getting my saddle higher in relation to the bars easier since my feet aren't as far away from the bb. Pedal strike is also never a possibility, so that's cool cuz wiping out isn't too fun haha. Despite everyone's legs having varying length, most bikes only come with 175's, 170's, 165's, and the occasional 162.5. Think twice about your crankarm length. Its an underrated spec which you could stand to benefit from changing. 💪 ride every day!
My YT dropped this in amongst various other shorter crank is the new black for road/tt certainly something I’m looking into for a better TT and road in drop going down from 172.5 to 165 - 160. My Mtb runs 165 and i still rock strike regular but that compression on suspension - It’s pretty hilly where i live in UK (i can do 200m ascent with 200m dh course in less than 4km on my doorstep at home - how do you find climbing??
Also have 49:14 gear ratio with 170mm cranks, it is so good specially when you build a much more aerodynamic components, it is hard to push at first and kinda hurt on my knees but after a long time it felt easy.
After ridong my first fixed gear for 2 weeks, i had to leave it at the shop overnight for the first check and service. Ended up riding my cx to work and omg it's a monster bike compared to my fg.
I ride 49x14 on my track bike I normally do 40-50 miles rides with that ratio with around 1,300 feet of climbing, if I'm going to do a longer ride or one with more climbing I take my road bike. So 49x14 is a very doable ratio in my opinion... but I also race my track bike so I'm not sure I'm the average fixed gear rider
I’ve wanted you to bike check one of my bikes since you were at SDSU! I’ve got a tracklocross, my old work bike from the mess days, and a bike dedicated to racing at the SD velodrome I built up in 2014/15. LMK what you think about the idea
l ride many different bikes and l have to add weight of a bike makes also a huge difference on what gearing you should use along with crank length :) since many fixies weigh alot l d say 44x16 or 46x18 is good for city riding .
Why is it you can get a sprocket/cog on a sport bike (motorcycle) for $50 but a bicycle is double? A sport bike is roughly 100+ Horsepower and a bicycle is human power yet the materials are the same and chain rings (primary sprocket on a motorcycle) are not true and so expensive!
I think it can make sense to start with a singlespeed drivetrain if somebody foe example was only riding mountainbike before. They have to learn how the bike reacts on different surfaces, paying more attention to traintracks, what cubes at what speed he can get up... . The fixed gear drivetrain + the need of a different driving style could be too much at once
I've spent time adopting to geometry and handling, and can only agree - this rocket is completely different from anything I've been on. Going fg from zero would be real crash course. For now I at least start to feel how much I can lean in turns not touching ground and how responsive it is.
This is not about being advanced. Point is, I for long time have liked to continue pedalling even when I could coast. Once I read Sheldon's notes on FG it helps to keep muscles warm and decided to just try FG from this aspect. I'm not going to do tricks other than trackstand which I've liked to do on a geared bike by using slope or brakes, and is rather useful technique not a trick. I'm not the one fancying skids or wanting to impress anyone with riding skills other than being able to stay away from crashes.
@BeboSaab You know, food can look so tasty and attractive so you decide to try it even realising it's not vitally needed and can't have radically different taste. We people aren't rational.
@BeboSaab Riding bike is emotional action, as long as it's not most boring and utilitarian bike. Remove emotional part and it appears that using car or bus is much more simpler or logical.
@BeboSaab Leave alone brakes, they should stay on fork. btw Sheldon, full of shit, specifically notes "don't ride fixed gear without brake...I've tried it, I know". I just sold one bike - not because it's bad, I just had no fun riding it, just almost never. Why use things with no fun? One bike is fun bc of fat tires and belt, other is fun for lightness and ease of riding...
Zach, I've been reading about people who go single speed bicycle touring. Would it be possible for you to do some fixie bike packing in Taiwan on your Wabi? It would make for an amazing video.
Thoughts on external vs square taper BB? More specifically, is external a more promising tech, is it indeed less durable, is the fixed-gear industry moving away from square taper?
I think 175 became standard cranks with MTBs even on small frames....on MTB gears are meant for climbing...on SS/FG you normally don't climb (a lot)....I have three bikes with 165, 170 and 175mm cranks and I still feel 175 are a bit unnecessary long.
I don't get this "coasting = practical, therefore gear bike if you wanna coast "thing. I find coasting very pleasurable, and I like having a single gear.
I started personally because I liked the lil separate culture that I saw online from fixed riders and I liked the idea of being constantly forced to pedal to build up leg strength and good cadence. It's completely different from riding a bike with a freewheel, it's so much more involved. It's like driving a manual car vs an automatic. You feel apart of the bike rather than just riding on top of it. The increased amount of control and direct input is unlike anything else. The complete silence and smoothness of the drive chain too is fantastic. All you hear is the whir of the tire and the gentle pulling of the chain. You have to try it to understand it.
Check out Adidas Golf shorts I find them excellent for cycling. Not into jay cycling shorts with built in diaper pads. Adidas golf shorts are comfy, casual and don’t break the bank!
También influye en para que quieras usar tu bicicleta, si es una carrera probablemente alguien use bielas mas cortas y otra cosa no menor es la altura del sillín que se vera influenciada por ese largo de bielas. Uso 170 y son cómodas para paseo y el rodado contidiano.
I wouldnt be so quick to call geared bikes the most practical. Most people dont do much with their bikes besides go down the street or on leisure rides, and most people also have no idea how a derailleur works, or how to fix one. Fixed gears (or single speeds) are cheaper, easier to maintain and fix, and suit most needs for most terrain. I'd say thats pretty practical. Thats actually why i ride one and i'm a bike delivery person.
@BeboSaab Oh, that's just silly. Road bike shifting was virtually identical to mountain bikes until the mountain bikes changed the pull ratio at 10 speed "dyna-sys" Same cable pull ratio, everything.
Yeah. That's really dependent on where you live. If it's some place fairly flat, and it's a rider who doesn't want to worry about maintenence, a single speed is probably going to be very practical. A fixed gear probably less-so, because it's essentially the same thing, but with a less control/stability. Certainly still good if you enjoy riding one, but it's hard to argue that it's ahead of a singlespeed for much of anything. If you're some place that's hilly, I think you kind of need gears to have a bike that's "practical". I'd say that the people who actually ride their bike for transportation, etc, are not going to want to be working way harder than they need to, or be limited by how fast they can spin the pedals to quickly get where they're going, just to save a little bit of maintenance.
The flawed logic of "There's no downside" to shorter cranks has always bothered me. Why don't we all pedal around on 140mm cranks instead? Because for most of us, it's below our ideal length. If you have long legs like I do, presumably your ideal length is going to be longer than average, so you're going to be riding more-below your ideal if you ride short cranks. That is definitely a downside. It may be true that you're more likely to hurt yourself with a crank that's too long for you than with one that's too short, so if in doubt, don't go excessively long, but if you're comfortable running 175mm cranks on your geared bike, and don't have clearance issues, you're going to be fine with them on your fixed as well.
Hey Zach I have a 44/16 ratio teeth. I mostly ride flat surfaces with occasional small inclines of less then 15 degrees. My bike has been awesome but want to explore and see if there is more potential for it. Any recommendations on gear ratio. I do want a little bit more speed as well
I need your help I have a bmx racing bike 20" so i have a 45t 16t to slow🐌 for me. Need to go much faster But I ride on a flat street what gear should I put to go fast.?
I’m 5’7 and ride a 52cm track bike, I got some sugino 75 cranks that are 170mm, I yet still have to install them on my bike, do you think 170mm will be good or should I stick with 165mm
hey Zach, I recently crashed my fixie and both of my wheels got obliterated, im in the market for a new wheel set, any recommendations? Im a broke college student so the cheaper the better 😁
elorz007 record your rides on strava and look at your average speed. Then use Sheldon Browns gear chart to figure out your cadence to gear ratio. Like he said, 75-95 is best for most. So if you are spinning above that or mashing below it then you may want to change your ratio.
Most of crank length theories are myth, the only peer revived research was set down to 140mm -180mm.; the only conclusions were for long distance, short cranks are more efficient concerning fatigue on an ironman distance ride, and thus got the best results, but if you put out 300 watts it will still be 300 watts whatever the length at the rear wheel, but on shorter cranks smaller circles, and easier to gain an aerodynamic position ( ie stomach not in the way,,ha ha ) due to the legs not coming up so high. I have tried all crank lengths over 45 years of cycling from 165, 167.5 170, 172.5 and 175 and can say that 165, even on geared bikes is for me the most comfortable due to a smaller circle ( I am 5' 11" with long legs proportionally). Also on a fixed when spinning the smaller circle means a higher cadence can be achieved and held. Hills, well you have gears on a geared bike and on a fixed not really noticeable from a leverage point of view, if you are over geared on a climb, you're over geared, 5mm is nothing...
5mm is about 3%, or about a third to half of a gear's worth of leverage. That's not huge, but not insignificant either. I always found longer cranks more comfortable, though I'm 6'4" with proportionally long legs. I'm not sure that it's always true that smaller cranks allow holding a higher cadence, nor do I see that as a requirement for the crank length to be faster for a given rider. If I'm comfortable applying the same pedal force over a 3% larger circle, but at a 3% lower cadence, the power getting to the road is the same. If I'm more comfortable doing that, or if my drop in cadence at the same force is smaller than 3%, then I'll do better with the long cranks. In my case, I think that's probably true, as I didn't really notice a drop in cadence when I switched from 175mm to 180mm. There's a lot of different factors involved, and I agree that "Most crank length theories are myth", but I also think that includes all the ones that people have been bringing up lately suggesting that shorter is better. It seems logical to me that there would be some correlation between leg length and crank length. Everyone is probably going to have an ideal crank length. If we all rode 100mm cranks, most of us would be slower. I think we can take that as fact. Presumably a short person will find a favourite length, maybe in the 140-160 range, before it gets too long for them, and things get worse. Likewise, an average size person will probably find a favourite somewhere longer in length, and a tall person's probably going to be longer still. Where that range is, who's to say, but I can tell you that I don't particularly care for short cranks. I need short-ish cranks on my track bike for clearance reasons (on the track), and I'm sure I would do better with a slightly longer crank, and a slightly taller gear. Same power, less cadence.
This might be a simple question, but I just wanna know: how do I know when I should replace my bar tape? Is there a recommended interval or a sign that I need to do so?
Would you be interested in submitting video clips of your bikes to have them featured in bike checks?
Yeah
What do you think about tsunami fix gear bikes ?
agree!
Sure! Good substitute for fixie points!
Yeah that'll be cool.
I like the idea of showing other peoples bike
Yea but its gotta be nice getting free wabis
Crank length is a big debating point for unicyclists where usually you have direct drive. On a unicycle, your only variables are wheel diameter, tyre section and crank length. As such, you find people riding with cranks from around 90 mm (high rpm, low torque) up to 170mm (high toque for hills, but low rpm) with most people choosing somewhere between 150mm and 110mm. However, the gains in rpm or torque have to be offset against the biomechanics of using a greater or lesser part of the range of movement available in your leg muscles. In terms of the maths, the difference between 170mm and 165 is negligible: around 3%, so the leverage and rpm issues are not critical. However, people with shorter legs will generally find slightly shorter cranks more comfortable.
Zach...your passion for fixed gear is really fun to see in your videos and I am with you on this. I have been riding bicycles for about 48 years of which the past eight years has been on a fixed gear bike. I can say, without a second of reservation, that riding fixed has been the greatest fun I have EVER had on a bicycle! And that is to say nothing of the wonderful practicality that comes with the simplicity of a fixed gear bike. ( No bottle bracket as well for me.)
When I rode 170s I had a few pedal strikes in corners. Never went down, but it was disconcerting. I now ride 165s and have yet hit no matter how far I lean. That's all I need to know. 165s forever.
I'm on a 60cm frame I'm 6'3" and run a 175 mm crank arm length, and its great
Thank you for using the chapter timestamps, it makes Q&A so much more accessible. Also thank you for making geat videos on your nice channel ^^
Zach, I have been following your channel for a while now. I was immediately attracted by your natural charisma. You inspired me to buy a fixed gear bike and even fit it out with wide risers.You have a lot of talent and are really killing it these days. Keep up the good work, young man! You are sure to hit 100,000 subscribers.
I actually hydroplaned a couple times while going brakeless on my fixed gear, thank god I managed to not crash... It was on some super wet fresh asphalt and I was running slick tires though, not the smartest choice for rainy rides.
As a Former Track racer Be aware shorter cranks (165)will increase your leg speed.I used 168 for points races,And I won many races.
When I met up with my mate last he was building up a fixie he was super concerned about his tire being round the right way, his chain was perfectly tensioned and his bolts were perfectly torqued.
I asked which grease he used...
silence...
I spent the next 2 hrs taking his bike apart and greasing it with ptfe grease.
Then I cleaned and waxed his chain.
Set up his bike so it fit him and finally went for a ride...
On the way back I picked up a front break and a free wheel in 16 tooth at the local shop.
He’ll get used to it one day...
I ride track and fixed crits... I love my bike and wouldn’t change it for the world.
Great timing and info on the crank arm lengths. I've had a Wabi on order now and they've been most helpful on this exact topic. An accident years ago left me needing one crank arm smaller than the other. I'm excited to ride a real bike that actually fits.
Love your content Zach Gallardo, you inspired me to start my own youtube channel.
Thank you for motivation.
Right, If this kid is this bad and had a following I bet you can do better!
@@logank.5198 Thank you, motivation levels decreased by 20%
Well explained. It took me years to discover all this on my own. As a recent fixed convert I use the same ratio most on geared bike for forty years. Shorter cranks easier on hips for me and bike fit has been a process. Hills are starting to actually look smaller to me! Not much slower than geared on long rides with less to break.
Videos have been getting alot better recently, so happy to see you enjoying yourself again man
I like something about 32 18... top speed sucks but getting going is instant... it's kinda funny how fast you look for a few seconds
I think a bike check segment could really be helpful to riders! It's a great idea and I'd be happy to contribute!
167.5 FTW... dura ace 7710s are my sugino 75’s 😂
Oooo when I’m done building my new fixed I’m so gonna send a clip!
Great video Zach, thank you for giving me videos to look forward to. I think it is important to mention that buying used parts is not always the best option, especially for those looking to save money on carbon components...BAD IDEA, since these parts may be run down, cracked/broken, on the edge of failure, and most importantly unreasonably dangerous. I know you have a love for steel, and I figured you stick with more "durable" components made from metals and sturdier materials that weather well, but for those of you looking to buy used carbon parts that someone else has already bashed be careful and think twice to avoid catastrophic failures.
Brilliant Vid Again Zach,
It's The Minimalism That Got Me Into Fixie.
Although I Have A Flip-Flop Hub I Find Myself Riding Freewheel Most Because In Fixed I Lov It But I Get Tired Quicker.
Ohh And Hungry, So Find Myself Eatin Lots More.
Pleased You Covered The Crank Arm, THANK YOU.
The Tyre Rotation Was Something I've Wandered For A While, Ta.
Your A GREAT Guy.
Why Do You Type Like This?
Longer crank = Lower seat-post height. At 5’7” I use Cook Brothers 177mm on my Road bike. 175mm XT on my MTB. My Bmx i use all 180mm Profile euro-outboard 46x16tooth on 20” and 24” tires. I like a wide Q-factor and laid back seatpost on all my bikes. Gives u more room to bunny hop and manual 👍 I sold my 170mm and too a saw to the 165mm old school cranks because of knee pain🤣 never looked back!!!
That's why your bike is loud lol
Kinda reminds me of a bmx so it's good👍🏽
Sunday doesn't suck anymore, thnx zach
Bring back fixie points😥
Hey, I really like your mix of talking and riding videos. It's nice to see both.
Crank arm length doesn't affect the gear ratio, it's just the law of the lever. Greater distance from the fulcrum = greater moment of force on the pedals. It feels "easier" because you're applying more force. The gearing doesn't change.
"Effective gear ratio"
If you read about it smaller cranks 165 around 2% more power in sprints. than 180.
"Not making sense brings me so much joy," me too Zach, me too
I ride 155mm cranks. I like it mostly for fit related reasons. My knees don't come up as high so I have a nice time in the drops. It also makes getting my saddle higher in relation to the bars easier since my feet aren't as far away from the bb. Pedal strike is also never a possibility, so that's cool cuz wiping out isn't too fun haha. Despite everyone's legs having varying length, most bikes only come with 175's, 170's, 165's, and the occasional 162.5. Think twice about your crankarm length. Its an underrated spec which you could stand to benefit from changing. 💪 ride every day!
My YT dropped this in amongst various other shorter crank is the new black for road/tt certainly something I’m looking into for a better TT and road in drop going down from 172.5 to 165 - 160. My Mtb runs 165 and i still rock strike regular but that compression on suspension - It’s pretty hilly where i live in UK (i can do 200m ascent with 200m dh course in less than 4km on my doorstep at home - how do you find climbing??
Also have 49:14 gear ratio with 170mm cranks, it is so good specially when you build a much more aerodynamic components, it is hard to push at first and kinda hurt on my knees but after a long time it felt easy.
He's Telling Facts.
I’m looking for the smoothest drivetrain. Cost isn’t an issue.
Definitely start doing bike checks!!!!!
After ridong my first fixed gear for 2 weeks, i had to leave it at the shop overnight for the first check and service. Ended up riding my cx to work and omg it's a monster bike compared to my fg.
After trying light bike I still postpone riding my Nexus8 commuter.....maybe on a wet day when I can benefit from fenders and belt.
If you're on a budget hit up eBay or offer up
Probably be able to find used in good condition Dura Ace,Campologo, or Sugino chainrings for under $70
Just ordered proper 165mm cranks today to replace some generic 170s. I'm 6ft3 so 165 may seem (too) short but I'm eager to try.
I ride 49x14 on my track bike I normally do 40-50 miles rides with that ratio with around 1,300 feet of climbing, if I'm going to do a longer ride or one with more climbing I take my road bike. So 49x14 is a very doable ratio in my opinion... but I also race my track bike so I'm not sure I'm the average fixed gear rider
Nice vid zach keep it up
Wouldn’t 49/14 give you only 2 skid patches?
I’ve wanted you to bike check one of my bikes since you were at SDSU! I’ve got a tracklocross, my old work bike from the mess days, and a bike dedicated to racing at the SD velodrome I built up in 2014/15. LMK what you think about the idea
l ride many different bikes and l have to add weight of a bike makes also a huge difference on what gearing you should use along with crank length :)
since many fixies weigh alot l d say 44x16 or 46x18 is good for city riding .
This video came at a perfect time. Need to replace my crank arm
Please do one of the ACN livestreams with Locked In, Spindatt, and Path Less Pedaled.
Why is it you can get a sprocket/cog on a sport bike (motorcycle) for $50 but a bicycle is double? A sport bike is roughly 100+ Horsepower and a bicycle is human power yet the materials are the same and chain rings (primary sprocket on a motorcycle) are not true and so expensive!
Always go 165 if possible, pedal strike and toe overlap is a bitch
9:14 woah nice
I think it can make sense to start with a singlespeed drivetrain if somebody foe example was only riding mountainbike before. They have to learn how the bike reacts on different surfaces, paying more attention to traintracks, what cubes at what speed he can get up... . The fixed gear drivetrain + the need of a different driving style could be too much at once
I've spent time adopting to geometry and handling, and can only agree - this rocket is completely different from anything I've been on. Going fg from zero would be real crash course. For now I at least start to feel how much I can lean in turns not touching ground and how responsive it is.
This is not about being advanced. Point is, I for long time have liked to continue pedalling even when I could coast. Once I read Sheldon's notes on FG it helps to keep muscles warm and decided to just try FG from this aspect. I'm not going to do tricks other than trackstand which I've liked to do on a geared bike by using slope or brakes, and is rather useful technique not a trick. I'm not the one fancying skids or wanting to impress anyone with riding skills other than being able to stay away from crashes.
@BeboSaab You know, food can look so tasty and attractive so you decide to try it even realising it's not vitally needed and can't have radically different taste. We people aren't rational.
@BeboSaab Riding bike is emotional action, as long as it's not most boring and utilitarian bike. Remove emotional part and it appears that using car or bus is much more simpler or logical.
@BeboSaab Leave alone brakes, they should stay on fork. btw Sheldon, full of shit, specifically notes "don't ride fixed gear without brake...I've tried it, I know".
I just sold one bike - not because it's bad, I just had no fun riding it, just almost never. Why use things with no fun? One bike is fun bc of fat tires and belt, other is fun for lightness and ease of riding...
Zach, I've been reading about people who go single speed bicycle touring. Would it be possible for you to do some fixie bike packing in Taiwan on your Wabi? It would make for an amazing video.
I’ve hydroplaned on a bike, the road was Super oily and wet
Thoughts on external vs square taper BB?
More specifically, is external a more promising tech, is it indeed less durable, is the fixed-gear industry moving away from square taper?
Shorter crank arms are harder to climb with also.
I think 175 became standard cranks with MTBs even on small frames....on MTB gears are meant for climbing...on SS/FG you normally don't climb (a lot)....I have three bikes with 165, 170 and 175mm cranks and I still feel 175 are a bit unnecessary long.
If a frame has bottle bosses i wouldn't even consider it. 2 messy. So snap beathch
I don't get this "coasting = practical, therefore gear bike if you wanna coast "thing. I find coasting very pleasurable, and I like having a single gear.
Why do you make so many fixed gear videos? What makes riding a fixie better than a road bike or a mtb?
I started personally because I liked the lil separate culture that I saw online from fixed riders and I liked the idea of being constantly forced to pedal to build up leg strength and good cadence. It's completely different from riding a bike with a freewheel, it's so much more involved. It's like driving a manual car vs an automatic. You feel apart of the bike rather than just riding on top of it. The increased amount of control and direct input is unlike anything else. The complete silence and smoothness of the drive chain too is fantastic. All you hear is the whir of the tire and the gentle pulling of the chain. You have to try it to understand it.
Check out Adidas Golf shorts I find them excellent for cycling. Not into jay cycling shorts with built in diaper pads. Adidas golf shorts are comfy, casual and don’t break the bank!
Can we talk about the sram omniums being discontinued and how we are supposed to move on
También influye en para que quieras usar tu bicicleta, si es una carrera probablemente alguien use bielas mas cortas y otra cosa no menor es la altura del sillín que se vera influenciada por ese largo de bielas. Uso 170 y son cómodas para paseo y el rodado contidiano.
I wouldnt be so quick to call geared bikes the most practical. Most people dont do much with their bikes besides go down the street or on leisure rides, and most people also have no idea how a derailleur works, or how to fix one. Fixed gears (or single speeds) are cheaper, easier to maintain and fix, and suit most needs for most terrain. I'd say thats pretty practical. Thats actually why i ride one and i'm a bike delivery person.
@BeboSaab Oh, that's just silly. Road bike shifting was virtually identical to mountain bikes until the mountain bikes changed the pull ratio at 10 speed "dyna-sys" Same cable pull ratio, everything.
Yeah. That's really dependent on where you live. If it's some place fairly flat, and it's a rider who doesn't want to worry about maintenence, a single speed is probably going to be very practical.
A fixed gear probably less-so, because it's essentially the same thing, but with a less control/stability. Certainly still good if you enjoy riding one, but it's hard to argue that it's ahead of a singlespeed for much of anything.
If you're some place that's hilly, I think you kind of need gears to have a bike that's "practical". I'd say that the people who actually ride their bike for transportation, etc, are not going to want to be working way harder than they need to, or be limited by how fast they can spin the pedals to quickly get where they're going, just to save a little bit of maintenance.
7:28 Did i see a double cog?
Key and peele reference lol
180mm for me...39/18 gears rocks
165s for life!
Do you like Dura Ace chain rings?
0:21 cog and lock ring )
I’d like to do it
Zach, what crank length do you use most? 165? or 170?
Yes
170mm for me 165 felt so odd!
Thoughts on dosnoventa?
I am looking for a lightweight fast single speed bicycle would the Wabi special be a good choice? Where I live it's all flat no Hills no mountains.
Bring back fixie points
The flawed logic of "There's no downside" to shorter cranks has always bothered me.
Why don't we all pedal around on 140mm cranks instead?
Because for most of us, it's below our ideal length.
If you have long legs like I do, presumably your ideal length is going to be longer than average, so you're going to be riding more-below your ideal if you ride short cranks. That is definitely a downside.
It may be true that you're more likely to hurt yourself with a crank that's too long for you than with one that's too short, so if in doubt, don't go excessively long, but if you're comfortable running 175mm cranks on your geared bike, and don't have clearance issues, you're going to be fine with them on your fixed as well.
Hey Zach I have a 44/16 ratio teeth. I mostly ride flat surfaces with occasional small inclines of less then 15 degrees. My bike has been awesome but want to explore and see if there is more potential for it. Any recommendations on gear ratio. I do want a little bit more speed as well
I need your help I have a bmx racing bike 20" so i have a 45t 16t to slow🐌 for me. Need to go much faster But I ride on a flat street what gear should I put to go fast.?
Hey Zach, do you have any opinions on the Campagnolo Record Cranksets? I have the 165 49t on a 16 cog. 🤙🏻
Thats really a small cog. Is your arm long enuff and did you find a fitting cog ring?
Atze Peng no problems so far with the arm length and cog.
Your main ratio is 49/16!? Goddamn
Hey what do you think about engine11 bikes, they got vortex, crit d and deluxe road that I am interested in, if you ridden one, how is ride quality
What are the rims on that yellow wabi? I want to buy something like that
Does anyone know the make and model of that front rack at 11:58?
Hey zach! What frame size would be the best fit for me? Im 6'5" thanks.
The “size of your cog and lock ring” sounds dirty
may i know where can i send the video of my bike?
I’m 5’7 and ride a 52cm track bike, I got some sugino 75 cranks that are 170mm, I yet still have to install them on my bike, do you think 170mm will be good or should I stick with 165mm
Only one way to find out. Try them.
hey Zach, I recently crashed my fixie and both of my wheels got obliterated, im in the market for a new wheel set, any recommendations? Im a broke college student so the cheaper the better 😁
Look up velocity wheels
Can anyone reccomend a good crank set for >$100? I have a state black label with the stock crank set and its garbage.
John Regan Sugino RD2 if you can tolerate 130 BCD. Otherwise get Andel
RIP gold chain
How do you know your pedalling RPM? Any accurate way better than counting for half a minute and multiplying or something like that?
elorz007 record your rides on strava
and look at your average speed. Then use Sheldon Browns gear chart to figure out your cadence to gear ratio. Like he said, 75-95 is best for most. So if you are spinning above that or mashing below it then you may want to change your ratio.
you can get a bike computer with cadence, or on fixed gear you can do the math based on your speed, if you have a speedometer, or use strava.
49/14; I'd be dead god damn.
@1:34 Who are you talking to?! lmao
Most of crank length theories are myth, the only peer revived research was set down to 140mm -180mm.; the only conclusions were for long distance, short cranks are more efficient concerning fatigue on an ironman distance ride, and thus got the best results, but if you put out 300 watts it will still be 300 watts whatever the length at the rear wheel, but on shorter cranks smaller circles, and easier to gain an aerodynamic position ( ie stomach not in the way,,ha ha ) due to the legs not coming up so high.
I have tried all crank lengths over 45 years of cycling from 165, 167.5 170, 172.5 and 175 and can say that 165, even on geared bikes is for me the most comfortable due to a smaller circle ( I am 5' 11" with long legs proportionally). Also on a fixed when spinning the smaller circle means a higher cadence can be achieved and held. Hills, well you have gears on a geared bike and on a fixed not really noticeable from a leverage point of view, if you are over geared on a climb, you're over geared, 5mm is nothing...
5mm is about 3%, or about a third to half of a gear's worth of leverage. That's not huge, but not insignificant either. I always found longer cranks more comfortable, though I'm 6'4" with proportionally long legs.
I'm not sure that it's always true that smaller cranks allow holding a higher cadence, nor do I see that as a requirement for the crank length to be faster for a given rider.
If I'm comfortable applying the same pedal force over a 3% larger circle, but at a 3% lower cadence, the power getting to the road is the same.
If I'm more comfortable doing that, or if my drop in cadence at the same force is smaller than 3%, then I'll do better with the long cranks. In my case, I think that's probably true, as I didn't really notice a drop in cadence when I switched from 175mm to 180mm.
There's a lot of different factors involved, and I agree that "Most crank length theories are myth", but I also think that includes all the ones that people have been bringing up lately suggesting that shorter is better.
It seems logical to me that there would be some correlation between leg length and crank length. Everyone is probably going to have an ideal crank length. If we all rode 100mm cranks, most of us would be slower. I think we can take that as fact. Presumably a short person will find a favourite length, maybe in the 140-160 range, before it gets too long for them, and things get worse.
Likewise, an average size person will probably find a favourite somewhere longer in length, and a tall person's probably going to be longer still.
Where that range is, who's to say, but I can tell you that I don't particularly care for short cranks. I need short-ish cranks on my track bike for clearance reasons (on the track), and I'm sure I would do better with a slightly longer crank, and a slightly taller gear. Same power, less cadence.
It’s kinda weird not having the background music you used to have in previous videos
This might be a simple question, but I just wanna know: how do I know when I should replace my bar tape? Is there a recommended interval or a sign that I need to do so?
Great Cait , when it starts to resemble a tramps sock.
Alguien me resume el video
165mm or 170mm? I ride 167.5😂
49:14 sounds terrible.
🔥🔥🔥
Aye zach can you give us a steel frame caidence or give us tips for climbing with steel frame - like your vids sub and notifications on
1:46 i think longer cranks can also help with out the saddle sprinting, but yeah it's marginal
Made in California matters like apple
Designed in California...made in china
Are you half filipino?