Thank you for making this video! I have always thought the reset stuff was blown out of proportion. I figured that if the saw can tune based on temperature changes during normal operation, elevation changes and ambient temps, why must I constantly do a reset because the temp is now 40 degrees lower outside. Yes, it can be a bit rough for a bit if you don't have big wood to get it in, but the saw figures it out shortly and operates better IMO than a manually adjusted carb. This is seen in my 562 vs my 620. The 562 is always ready to go even after a couple small bucks. My ECHO is fat unti it is good and toasty. Then when it sits for 10 minutes in 10 deg weather, the whole fat running condition is started all over again. Again, thank you for this video Richard!
Thanks for the comment! I've had to feather the throttle to get one going if there was a big enough swing in temp, replacing a component to the AT/MT system, and after doing some performance work. Regardless they always come around pretty quick if everything is working as it should. It's not just your Echos. They are cold natured in my experience as well.
Awesome!! You have the best way of explaining. Straight forward no nonsense. I look forward to your channel every time no matter what part of chainsawing you're talking about. I've learned a lot from you.
I love my new manual carb Chain Saws. I ran Motomix 50:1 when my STIHL 261 was brand spank’n new for break in. It ran OKAY, but it stalled and bogged in the cut pretty easy with any pressure applied at all, the saw was not tuned out of the box to run well on MotoMix which is an Alkylate fuel, it stalled a lot too mainly just because it was brand new. After that first tank or so, I immediately swapped to a 32:1 oil ratio. I add 1.4 ounces of Honda HP2 oil to my 1 gallon cans of MotoMix. Now it’s a 32:1 ratio MotoMix 😂, the saw was crazy rich out of the gate on the Low Speed jet. You could revv the saw, let off and it would stall out. I leaned the low speed out a little more, and now it’s tuned to perfection. On 32:1 you can rip through wood for days, and it will idle forever! This 32:1 also provides lots of oil film to the bottom end and top end cylinder. The MotoMix is cool because it’s odorless, I can go cut and my clothes do not smell like exhaust at all, no odor is left behind. Anyways, I love the ability to manually tune my chain saws. I gained my tuning experience from Nitro RC cars. Also want to point out, after break-in on my 261 it absolutely RIPS. I hit 12K rpm in the cut on 12-14” pine trees. Larger 18” pine tree was 11K-11.5K rpm in the cut. I appreciate the Mtronic saws that people use, but I really like having an idle adjustment, low speed adjustment, and high speed adjustment. I can hear exactly what the saw is saying right after I start it and do one rev. But usually no adjustment is needed once set. After my first initial tune after switching to 32:1 ratio MotoMix+HP2 oil, I have not had to retune or adjust anything at all. The saw just runs like a beast all the time. I may buy a Stihl 661 next. And it will be a manual carb model for sure! I truly believe the operator of any 2 cycle machine should know how to tune it. Once you memorize the sounds, you know how to do it forever! Plus tuning machines is so much fun! I carry a little flat head with me on my cheap $159 dollar Lowe’s weed eater and will mess with its tune periodically. It really is fun! I don’t want a computer doing it for me. 😊
Excellent to know. My MS661 has never been reset in it's 6 or 7 years, and runs fine. I have been wondering if it would benefit from it actually, but I simply can't bring myself to hold it on full throttle, no load for 30 seconds. so thank you sir, for such great information. Really appreciate your channel!
Hey Richard , first off love your videos. I like how you say let’s learn some stuff together!! Reminds me of a man I worked for in my teens, only he would say Shut up and listen. lol 😅 I learned a lot from him and you. Thank you and much respect Sir.
Very interesting to see the husqy at about the 3:30 mark. Watch it smoke hard and begin to lean it self out and clean up the exhaust. Thanks Richard. Quality content as usual!
Some of that was from the muffler itself burning off some external residue. The saw was a little dirty/oily when it was dropped off. I could also smell the residual Stihl Ultra when I fired it up.
i have ZERO chainsaw experience but have several folks here with a LOT of experience to teach me how to use them . last week we had a wood boiler installed to heat our home , we have access to over 100 acres of family land so i need a chainsaw . i did construction building decks and fencing and cut man for framing so i very familiar with power tools . anyhow i want something for cutting down maybe 18 inch trees and bucking for the boiler but i'll mostly take advantage of what's already on the ground that i can get to . i'm mainly looking at the echo 501p , 590 and 620 but i'm also fortunate enough to be able to consider investing in the stihl 261 CM and the husqvarna 550xp mk2 ....... . i'm 62 with a few replaced joints (very grateful to have more mobility) and we'll only need about 6-7 cords a year for our small c150 . HP2 is on the list along with husq wrap chaps and i found a local ITASCA bar lube source .
@@supersportimpalass dude , i'm not decrepit ! i just made a small concrete pad for the boiler , a lean to for the wood , installed 3 new duct leaders under the house and dug the trench with the aid of my harbor freight auger . i'm not young , i'm not fast , but i can do a schiit ton more in a day that a lot of these much younger healthy folks can do ! i was just being clear i'm not gonna be a year round user nore will i be messing with huge wood , but i do want durability and quality for my money . thanks for caring though .
@@supersportimpalassYouth only lasts so long. With that hard head of yours, you'll be stubborn enough to do the same thing as Jeff when you're 62. Moreover you'll be proud you "still got it".
I would get a 4910 from charles briscoe. Be same price as a 501p, mk2, 261 but ported. Charles is very good with those saws. We have 2 and they are great firewood, limbing saws. Lighter than my 261 aswell.
Or you could continue to run a saw with an issue until it dies. I work on saws every day. The more you run a saw that runs poorly, the more expensive the repair bill will be turning a small problem into a full rebuild..
peolpe like me thank you for your videos, they are straight forward , without bs ,and very informative, keep up the good work Mr. Flagg best regrads from from Portugal@@richardflagg3084
Thanks for setting the record straight Richard. Always refreshing to see someone show proof that the myths are fake. I only have one AT saw which is a 562. I remember when I first got it home I fired it up and let it sit and idle and after maybe 30 seconds I heard it start leaning itself out, The high side tuned just like you showed here, I have ran the saw from an 80 degree day to a 40 degree day and it will tune itself no issue with cuts just like you did here, I have never done the long rip cut people show. And it just makes me want to puke watching stihl guys holding the damn saws WOT for a reset.
That long ripping cut is dangerous for an inexperienced user. The recalibration process can be pretty scary on a Stihl if it is waaayyyy out of tune. It takes a long time to settle in at WOT.
Yep no reason to continue to reset back to factory tunes and have them keep learning the settings, made that mistake with a 201tc. Just run them and they will dial in.
Thanks for explaining this! Tho I've not yet been into an autotune or m-tronic saw, this definitely eases my mind if one comes my way or crosses my bench.
We all blamed any running issue in the beginning on the electronics. Took me a while to realize that it's still 90% mechanical and prone to the very same running issues as a 20 year old saw. No different than trying to tune around a problem when you know good and well the L and H screws should be about 1 turn out and the saw won't run.
I've found that if you keep running the saw (592) until the tank is empty it seems to goof up the autotune when you refuel.. on that day the "reset" procedure did fix the running problems, but this was not a simple run dry scenario, I ran the fuel completely out of the lines and then started up on full choke and ran it until it died again.. I'm probably never going to do that again
Exactly. If the saw is running, it's making adjustments. When it starts to burble as it's running out of fuel, shut her down. Don't overthink this. Sounds like you've got it covered.
Biggest reason I see for doing the bar tip rather then the way you did a full bar cut in this video is most of Canada for example where I live got smaller wood. So burring the tip and running it down the log comes into play then. I also get what you’re saying about not using a chainsaw to its full potential. I had my 261 screw up one day when I was just starting the saw for a few seconds to cut off branches and shutting it off. After a while the saw was hard starting/running poorly and I did a reset and it fixed the problem. But maybe I could have just did a cut like you did. Also I bought a new 462 a month or two ago and the dealer told me to do a factory reset after 5 tanks of fuel. Weird. Not sure why
Yer had real hard time with huskey 540 mk1 kept takin it back to dealer they never fixed it couldnt. But saws since then auto been good. Do struggle with my 150 stihl. But i cant tune it make it worse. Thanks bro.
Thanks for your videos. I just bought an m-tronic saw, new. Should I wait a few tanks before giving its first calibration run? I’m nervous of going WOT during break in. Thanks!
How well do the auto tune or m -tronic saws handle large elevation changes. My house is at 5300' and where I cut firewood is at 9000' . Would maybe like a saw that I don't have to tune constantly
I have a customer that lives and works in Hendersonville NC and is hesitant to make a carb adjustment. Years ago his MS200t would run like crap if he was working in the mountain top communities (about 3000 ft above town). When he got his 201TC, after the first few cuts the saw would make adjustments and start running better. He fell in love with the saw.
Yeah I’m just gonna pick your brain one more time I want to put a 32 inch bar on my 462 some people say well you better be ready to buy a new clutch or some new bearings if I’m only buying it to get more reach and not burying it in wood then I don’t understand how it would take a whole lot more horsepower to turn a few more inches of chain. What’s your opinion on that? Thanks.
Per the Stihl website the 462 can run 16"-36" bars. I personally think a 32" is pushing the limits of the saw. If you're not doing regular full bar length cuts, I think you're fine in the wear and tear department.
If a carb screw on a -non mtronic saw is stripped do i need to buy new carburetor.??one of 2511t the ported one low jet just spins it dont stop either direction so i couldnt tune it..guna order carb i guess..😢😮
Hey Richard, it was always my understanding that for M-Tronic resets, they were performed out of wood and depending on what version you have also depends on how it’s performed?
The numbers on the ignition coil will determine what version Mtronic you have. Version 1 and 2 are 90 seconds on triangle (choke) and shut it off and is referred to as a reset. The only thing that accomplishes is the fuel settings go back to factory default. (pig rich). Then you must make 3-4 bar length cuts per the manual and allow it to tune itself in the cut. Here's the catch, if you have and idle issue it won't run 90 seconds on choke. Lol! The recalibration is only on version 3 MTronic. 30 Seconds on triangle, then pin the throttle. It will go through a "load" test for 30 seconds and then jump to a WOT tune. When it returns to load, release the trigger and allow to idle for 30 seconds and shut it off. Both processes are done out of the wood. Basically so it can be bench tested in the shop by a "technician". It is a good indicator if the saw is communicating between the coil and carb. If it won't make it through the bench test it's time to go through the diagnostic process and check everything.
Got ya, thanks for the reply. My buddy has a 441 that will not idle and one of the Stihl dealers near me keeps telling me all it needs is to be reset, but given it won’t idle, I can’t do the reset, like you said.
Curious to hear your thoughts about retuning after port work or modification. Looking to change out stock muffler for a bark box on my MS400. Retune or just run it like you showed?
Richard i see this guy resetting these husqvarna saws on TH-cam every other time i see him use one . I purchased a 550xp brand new around 5 years ago and was told from the dealer that when i start the saw stone cold for the first minute approx when warming up it would sound and run crap as that was it getting its set point for optimum performance for the current conditions it was in . I.e weather , air quality and fuel quality and it can even do this during a cut but that would not be noticed. ....Is that correct ...
The saw holds the fuel settings from the last time you used it. When you start it up it will adapt to current conditions. If it's running it's making small adjustments. So yes, you will not notice the micro adjustments it constantly makes while you're running it.
Thank you, sir. You may feel you go on but OTOH i'm listening to those sentences to find something i can use. Today's is how Mtronic takes readings and adjusts fuel for a temperature. Let it idle or use it is the preferred method of operation. The habitual Unn......uuunnunnunn....un un some guys do between cuts makes Mtronic unreliable.
Awesome video Richard. I bought a 572XP in 2021, had issues with felling because I would cut then immediately switch the saw off. Saw went out of tune after 3 cuts, had to use my 372 for the day. Took the 572 back to my dealer, he showed me how to reset the tune and why it went out of tune. Answer is to allow the saw to idle for 30 seconds after a cut to allow it to re-calibrate each time…I didn’t know this or was told!
Your saw saves the carb settings from the last time you use it. Unless there is a big change in elevation, temp or fuel mix you may only need to let it idle for 10-15 seconds after the first cut or two. It should be good to go for the rest of the day. It is important and often over looked to allow the saw to find an idle "tune". Every engine needs less fuel to operate at full temp than cold. It's a balance when tuning a traditional carb. If you dial in the L screw and idle speed screw at full operating temp it may be hard to "cold start". Always good to do a cold start after tuning a traditional carb.
Nicest part of doing performance work is these computer controlled saws. Just fire it up and run it like I did today. It will tune it faster than I can.
Nope. Not with auto-tune. 550xp mkii. Will not tune. Carb replaced, coil replaced, bearings replaced, flywheel replaced... All under warranty. Only Honda HP2, with non ethanol (same as all my other saws drink). It still hates to idle, dies in the cut. And she still smokes like I'm spraying for mosquitoes. Incredibly fat in the cut. Like the low jet is wide open... Free revving is fine and crisp. Under load, it absolutely falls flat. 201, 198, and 206 psi compression. 3 dealers, 19 months of waiting, and no answers. 17 hours on a 2021 saw. P.O.S. My 572 is fine, my 550 mk1, as well as my 462c 362x, 372xp 346xp, 026, and 044... all are fine. Same fuel. Same maintenance... I'm thinking it's a bad cylinder cast, or a crankcase issue... or something...? Incredibly rich under load.
@@richardflagg3084 I really think that I need to pull the carb and check the screen (thank you for that video). I don't think my gas is dirty, but it's worth a shot. Man, I had a CR250 popping and dying under heavy throttle, especially in the whoops... Replaced the entire reed cage, without improvement. I was about to pull the jug.... Turns out the damn spark plug was loose. It's always the simple stuff. Had I simply checked compression...
Hate computerized carburetors ,period . I have enough old saws in good shape to last me the rest of my life . I can say with confidence i will never own an m-tronic or x -torq saw
Love the channel, straight and to the point without a bunch of bs fluff, keep it up!
Yep
I should have mentioned in the video I have both of the diagnostic machines, Stihl and Husqvarna, and rarely need them.
Two videos in an afternoon?! Hell
Yeah!
Thank you for making this video! I have always thought the reset stuff was blown out of proportion. I figured that if the saw can tune based on temperature changes during normal operation, elevation changes and ambient temps, why must I constantly do a reset because the temp is now 40 degrees lower outside. Yes, it can be a bit rough for a bit if you don't have big wood to get it in, but the saw figures it out shortly and operates better IMO than a manually adjusted carb. This is seen in my 562 vs my 620. The 562 is always ready to go even after a couple small bucks. My ECHO is fat unti it is good and toasty. Then when it sits for 10 minutes in 10 deg weather, the whole fat running condition is started all over again.
Again, thank you for this video Richard!
Thanks for the comment! I've had to feather the throttle to get one going if there was a big enough swing in temp, replacing a component to the AT/MT system, and after doing some performance work. Regardless they always come around pretty quick if everything is working as it should. It's not just your Echos. They are cold natured in my experience as well.
The voice of reason and practicality! That's why I keep coming back! Thanks!
Awesome!! You have the best way of explaining. Straight forward no nonsense. I look forward to your channel every time no matter what part of chainsawing you're talking about. I've learned a lot from you.
Thank you!
I love my new manual carb Chain Saws. I ran Motomix 50:1 when my STIHL 261 was brand spank’n new for break in. It ran OKAY, but it stalled and bogged in the cut pretty easy with any pressure applied at all, the saw was not tuned out of the box to run well on MotoMix which is an Alkylate fuel, it stalled a lot too mainly just because it was brand new. After that first tank or so, I immediately swapped to a 32:1 oil ratio. I add 1.4 ounces of Honda HP2 oil to my 1 gallon cans of MotoMix. Now it’s a 32:1 ratio MotoMix 😂, the saw was crazy rich out of the gate on the Low Speed jet. You could revv the saw, let off and it would stall out. I leaned the low speed out a little more, and now it’s tuned to perfection. On 32:1 you can rip through wood for days, and it will idle forever! This 32:1 also provides lots of oil film to the bottom end and top end cylinder. The MotoMix is cool because it’s odorless, I can go cut and my clothes do not smell like exhaust at all, no odor is left behind. Anyways, I love the ability to manually tune my chain saws. I gained my tuning experience from Nitro RC cars. Also want to point out, after break-in on my 261 it absolutely RIPS. I hit 12K rpm in the cut on 12-14” pine trees. Larger 18” pine tree was 11K-11.5K rpm in the cut. I appreciate the Mtronic saws that people use, but I really like having an idle adjustment, low speed adjustment, and high speed adjustment. I can hear exactly what the saw is saying right after I start it and do one rev. But usually no adjustment is needed once set. After my first initial tune after switching to 32:1 ratio MotoMix+HP2 oil, I have not had to retune or adjust anything at all. The saw just runs like a beast all the time. I may buy a Stihl 661 next. And it will be a manual carb model for sure! I truly believe the operator of any 2 cycle machine should know how to tune it. Once you memorize the sounds, you know how to do it forever! Plus tuning machines is so much fun! I carry a little flat head with me on my cheap $159 dollar Lowe’s weed eater and will mess with its tune periodically. It really is fun! I don’t want a computer doing it for me. 😊
Great explanation with demonstration!👌
I like it when you ramble. It means you are passionate about saws and that benefits me. 👍
I need to put myself on a script Lol!
I always appreciate the dose of reality you bring Richard. Keep up the awesome content!!
Thanks Richard! Moral of the story, don't run a dull saw!!
Somehow I left out the obvious. In order to put the saw under a steady load, your going to need a decent chain. LOL!!
Always learn something watching these videos. Thank you again.
Idk I just now found you,I needed this with owning newer huskies,I appreciate ya,I'm gonna get to watching your videos, hello from East TN
Excellent to know. My MS661 has never been reset in it's 6 or 7 years, and runs fine. I have been wondering if it would benefit from it actually, but I simply can't bring myself to hold it on full throttle, no load for 30 seconds. so thank you sir, for such great information. Really appreciate your channel!
Thank you for making this easy to understand. Really well done
Thanks for clearing this up. There definitely are a lot of different ideas floating around about this.
Hey Richard , first off love your videos. I like how you say let’s learn some stuff together!! Reminds me of a man I worked for in my teens, only he would say Shut up and listen. lol 😅
I learned a lot from him and you. Thank you and much respect Sir.
Thank you!
Definitely appreciate your help and time with your content. It helps me better than the sales guys over the phone.
Damn that 562 blew that 462 away lol. Good stuff thanks for sharing!
@tedneitzel I was kinda thinking it looked pretty strong myself. Ted, have you seen my message buddy?
@@oakiewoodsman I saw the one that's says pay attention for the saw sharpen tool. Did I miss something?
Great explanation. Especially the part about how the carb tunes itself (heat: fuel). Thanks for this awesome video.
Great information!👍
Very interesting to see the husqy at about the 3:30 mark. Watch it smoke hard and begin to lean it self out and clean up the exhaust. Thanks Richard. Quality content as usual!
Some of that was from the muffler itself burning off some external residue. The saw was a little dirty/oily when it was dropped off. I could also smell the residual Stihl Ultra when I fired it up.
Thank you Richard! Great real world info!
Great video always nice to learn something
Great video and tons of information. It really helps when somebody clears the mud. Thanks again
Very informative, thanks!
Great video
i have ZERO chainsaw experience but have several folks here with a LOT of experience to teach me how to use them . last week we had a wood boiler installed to heat our home , we have access to over 100 acres of family land so i need a chainsaw . i did construction building decks and fencing and cut man for framing so i very familiar with power tools . anyhow i want something for cutting down maybe 18 inch trees and bucking for the boiler but i'll mostly take advantage of what's already on the ground that i can get to . i'm mainly looking at the echo 501p , 590 and 620 but i'm also fortunate enough to be able to consider investing in the stihl 261 CM and the husqvarna 550xp mk2 ....... . i'm 62 with a few replaced joints (very grateful to have more mobility) and we'll only need about 6-7 cords a year for our small c150 . HP2 is on the list along with husq wrap chaps and i found a local ITASCA bar lube source .
Sounds like a terrible idea to me someone your age and condition.
@@supersportimpalass dude , i'm not decrepit ! i just made a small concrete pad for the boiler , a lean to for the wood , installed 3 new duct leaders under the house and dug the trench with the aid of my harbor freight auger . i'm not young , i'm not fast , but i can do a schiit ton more in a day that a lot of these much younger healthy folks can do ! i was just being clear i'm not gonna be a year round user nore will i be messing with huge wood , but i do want durability and quality for my money . thanks for caring though .
@@supersportimpalassYouth only lasts so long. With that hard head of yours, you'll be stubborn enough to do the same thing as Jeff when you're 62. Moreover you'll be proud you "still got it".
@@JeffB1961 He'll be older one day soon and understand. At least we're still tall, tan, and handsome 😎
I would get a 4910 from charles briscoe. Be same price as a 501p, mk2, 261 but ported. Charles is very good with those saws. We have 2 and they are great firewood, limbing saws. Lighter than my 261 aswell.
Rich nice video. ❤❤❤
Low jet just as important, longer idles between cuts will re-tune.
Happy and safe cutting. 💪💪💪
Awsome information that's what we needed to hear with these new saws
The master again!!
Thanks a lot. Informative and educational. Got a 550Mk2, relatively new with mild muffler mod. 20 tanks isj. running great.
2:55 Right. Of course. Cause taking it to the shop is FREE right...!?!??
Or you could continue to run a saw with an issue until it dies. I work on saws every day. The more you run a saw that runs poorly, the more expensive the repair bill will be turning a small problem into a full rebuild..
thanks for the video very usefull , helped me very much understanding the concept of mtronic/autotune and how it works
It's pretty primitive, but effective. Pretty impressive they make it work without air flow sensors, O2 sensors etc.
peolpe like me thank you for your videos, they are straight forward , without bs ,and very informative, keep up the good work Mr. Flagg best regrads from from Portugal@@richardflagg3084
Thanks for setting the record straight Richard. Always refreshing to see someone show proof that the myths are fake. I only have one AT saw which is a 562. I remember when I first got it home I fired it up and let it sit and idle and after maybe 30 seconds I heard it start leaning itself out, The high side tuned just like you showed here, I have ran the saw from an 80 degree day to a 40 degree day and it will tune itself no issue with cuts just like you did here, I have never done the long rip cut people show. And it just makes me want to puke watching stihl guys holding the damn saws WOT for a reset.
That long ripping cut is dangerous for an inexperienced user. The recalibration process can be pretty scary on a Stihl if it is waaayyyy out of tune. It takes a long time to settle in at WOT.
Good video! The electronic tunes are pretty fast to dial in wood like you said.
great video huh?
Yep no reason to continue to reset back to factory tunes and have them keep learning the settings, made that mistake with a 201tc. Just run them and they will dial in.
I thought that was the point right? @@zeromark202
Thanks for explaining this! Tho I've not yet been into an autotune or m-tronic saw, this definitely eases my mind if one comes my way or crosses my bench.
We all blamed any running issue in the beginning on the electronics. Took me a while to realize that it's still 90% mechanical and prone to the very same running issues as a 20 year old saw. No different than trying to tune around a problem when you know good and well the L and H screws should be about 1 turn out and the saw won't run.
Doesn't Cher also use auto-tune?
Thanks for the vid buddy. Wish they could recognise when youre limbing somehow.
I've found that if you keep running the saw (592) until the tank is empty it seems to goof up the autotune when you refuel.. on that day the "reset" procedure did fix the running problems, but this was not a simple run dry scenario, I ran the fuel completely out of the lines and then started up on full choke and ran it until it died again.. I'm probably never going to do that again
Exactly. If the saw is running, it's making adjustments. When it starts to burble as it's running out of fuel, shut her down. Don't overthink this. Sounds like you've got it covered.
Biggest reason I see for doing the bar tip rather then the way you did a full bar cut in this video is most of Canada for example where I live got smaller wood. So burring the tip and running it down the log comes into play then. I also get what you’re saying about not using a chainsaw to its full potential. I had my 261 screw up one day when I was just starting the saw for a few seconds to cut off branches and shutting it off. After a while the saw was hard starting/running poorly and I did a reset and it fixed the problem. But maybe I could have just did a cut like you did. Also I bought a new 462 a month or two ago and the dealer told me to do a factory reset after 5 tanks of fuel. Weird. Not sure why
Yer had real hard time with huskey 540 mk1 kept takin it back to dealer they never fixed it couldnt. But saws since then auto been good. Do struggle with my 150 stihl. But i cant tune it make it worse. Thanks bro.
Thanks for your videos. I just bought an m-tronic saw, new. Should I wait a few tanks before giving its first calibration run? I’m nervous of going WOT during break in. Thanks!
Hey Rich waiting on that castor 927 test
I get distracted....................
Hi there just curious how does the crank case bearings get oil from the oil in the mix gas does it just seepPast the piston rings Thanks.
The fuel and air mix goes directly into the crankcase from the carburetor.
You could hear that 461 clean up during the first cut and it found more rpm’s
462 and yes, Mtronic tunes faster than I can with screwdriver.
How well do the auto tune or m -tronic saws handle large elevation changes. My house is at 5300' and where I cut firewood is at 9000' . Would maybe like a saw that I don't have to tune constantly
I have a customer that lives and works in Hendersonville NC and is hesitant to make a carb adjustment. Years ago his MS200t would run like crap if he was working in the mountain top communities (about 3000 ft above town). When he got his 201TC, after the first few cuts the saw would make adjustments and start running better. He fell in love with the saw.
Isn't the Husqvarna supposed to use a two minute rip cut at full throttle?
How to tell if solenoid is bad on a m tronic?
Yeah I’m just gonna pick your brain one more time I want to put a 32 inch bar on my 462 some people say well you better be ready to buy a new clutch or some new bearings if I’m only buying it to get more reach and not burying it in wood then I don’t understand how it would take a whole lot more horsepower to turn a few more inches of chain. What’s your opinion on that? Thanks.
Per the Stihl website the 462 can run 16"-36" bars. I personally think a 32" is pushing the limits of the saw. If you're not doing regular full bar length cuts, I think you're fine in the wear and tear department.
Thank you very much for that knowledge. I sure do appreciate it. Have a good day.
Think you need to have a look at certain someone's stihl 400. Rich😉😅
There will be plenty of eyes on it shortly. I believe they will get to the bottom of it all.
That carb was blanketed.😢😅😮
If a carb screw on a -non mtronic saw is stripped do i need to buy new carburetor.??one of 2511t the ported one low jet just spins it dont stop either direction so i couldnt tune it..guna order carb i guess..😢😮
If the carb body is stripped then probably yes.
Hey Richard, it was always my understanding that for M-Tronic resets, they were performed out of wood and depending on what version you have also depends on how it’s performed?
The numbers on the ignition coil will determine what version Mtronic you have. Version 1 and 2 are 90 seconds on triangle (choke) and shut it off and is referred to as a reset. The only thing that accomplishes is the fuel settings go back to factory default. (pig rich). Then you must make 3-4 bar length cuts per the manual and allow it to tune itself in the cut. Here's the catch, if you have and idle issue it won't run 90 seconds on choke. Lol!
The recalibration is only on version 3 MTronic. 30 Seconds on triangle, then pin the throttle. It will go through a "load" test for 30 seconds and then jump to a WOT tune. When it returns to load, release the trigger and allow to idle for 30 seconds and shut it off. Both processes are done out of the wood. Basically so it can be bench tested in the shop by a "technician". It is a good indicator if the saw is communicating between the coil and carb. If it won't make it through the bench test it's time to go through the diagnostic process and check everything.
Got ya, thanks for the reply. My buddy has a 441 that will not idle and one of the Stihl dealers near me keeps telling me all it needs is to be reset, but given it won’t idle, I can’t do the reset, like you said.
@@jreif14 Is there another dealer nearby?
Curious to hear your thoughts about retuning after port work or modification. Looking to change out stock muffler for a bark box on my MS400. Retune or just run it like you showed?
Just like I showed. Same as I do after port work. Fire it up and run it a decent stick of wood nice and steady.
Richard i see this guy resetting these husqvarna saws on TH-cam every other time i see him use one . I purchased a 550xp brand new around 5 years ago and was told from the dealer that when i start the saw stone cold for the first minute approx when warming up it would sound and run crap as that was it getting its set point for optimum performance for the current conditions it was in . I.e weather , air quality and fuel quality and it can even do this during a cut but that would not be noticed. ....Is that correct ...
The saw holds the fuel settings from the last time you used it. When you start it up it will adapt to current conditions. If it's running it's making small adjustments. So yes, you will not notice the micro adjustments it constantly makes while you're running it.
Thank you, sir. You may feel you go on but OTOH i'm listening to those sentences to find something i can use. Today's is how Mtronic takes readings and adjusts fuel for a temperature. Let it idle or use it is the preferred method of operation. The habitual Unn......uuunnunnunn....un un some guys do between cuts makes Mtronic unreliable.
Not unreliable if you understand how it works. 🤓
That should stop some of the internet myths.
Agreed! Lets make this video get circulated!
I'm so outnumbered. This may take a while . LOL!
Awesome video Richard. I bought a 572XP in 2021, had issues with felling because I would cut then immediately switch the saw off. Saw went out of tune after 3 cuts, had to use my 372 for the day. Took the 572 back to my dealer, he showed me how to reset the tune and why it went out of tune. Answer is to allow the saw to idle for 30 seconds after a cut to allow it to re-calibrate each time…I didn’t know this or was told!
Your saw saves the carb settings from the last time you use it. Unless there is a big change in elevation, temp or fuel mix you may only need to let it idle for 10-15 seconds after the first cut or two. It should be good to go for the rest of the day.
It is important and often over looked to allow the saw to find an idle "tune". Every engine needs less fuel to operate at full temp than cold. It's a balance when tuning a traditional carb. If you dial in the L screw and idle speed screw at full operating temp it may be hard to "cold start". Always good to do a cold start after tuning a traditional carb.
what about tuning after port work?
Nicest part of doing performance work is these computer controlled saws. Just fire it up and run it like I did today. It will tune it faster than I can.
Did reset mates 261. Prob shouldnt but it went better'
Gonna need a 10 inch bar to tune with. All i got are limbs. Lol
Yeah, but I'm old now. All I can do is dilly - dally around now. These saws work good for me.
AutoTune needs much more time to autotune it self
Nope.
Wow
Screw tuning saws all my saws are non m-tronic .
Nope. Not with auto-tune.
550xp mkii. Will not tune.
Carb replaced, coil replaced, bearings replaced, flywheel replaced... All under warranty. Only Honda HP2, with non ethanol (same as all my other saws drink).
It still hates to idle, dies in the cut. And she still smokes like I'm spraying for mosquitoes. Incredibly fat in the cut. Like the low jet is wide open... Free revving is fine and crisp. Under load, it absolutely falls flat. 201, 198, and 206 psi compression.
3 dealers, 19 months of waiting, and no answers.
17 hours on a 2021 saw. P.O.S. My 572 is fine, my 550 mk1, as well as my 462c 362x, 372xp 346xp, 026, and 044... all are fine. Same fuel. Same maintenance...
I'm thinking it's a bad cylinder cast, or a crankcase issue... or something...?
Incredibly rich under load.
Damn that is tough to hear. Can you send me an email?
@@richardflagg3084
I really think that I need to pull the carb and check the screen (thank you for that video).
I don't think my gas is dirty, but it's worth a shot.
Man, I had a CR250 popping and dying under heavy throttle, especially in the whoops... Replaced the entire reed cage, without improvement. I was about to pull the jug....
Turns out the damn spark plug was loose. It's always the simple stuff. Had I simply checked compression...
@@Matt-416By your description, it's getting too much fuel, not a fuel restriction. I don't think you've got a clogged screen.
Hate computerized carburetors ,period . I have enough old saws in good shape to last me the rest of my life . I can say with confidence i will never own an m-tronic or x -torq saw