Another awesome video production! I'm a college kid that's just now finding a passion for working on my 4Runner and car mechanics in general. I can't thank you guys enough for breaking everything down so simply and providing such great, clear instructions. Hats off to you, gentlemen!
Roman Schnobrich that’s awesome bro! It can be frustrating at times especially without the right tools for the job. The more tools you start to accumulate, the easier things will get. Thanks for stopping by & commenting. We love hearing about people like you are feeling empowered to tackle a job based on our video.
Hey Tim, I know this is an old video and all.. But I just wanted to thank you for posting this. You saved me $900.00. I went to a pick and pull, grabbed a used rack and pinion for 50 bucks and raided RockAuto for the rest. Only took me 2 hours all said and done. You're the best!
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi Tim, I think he was replying to my comment (not the video) about using an old rack and pinion. Yes, I reused the whole rack, only replacing the inner and outer tie rods. I bought new boots and bushings as well. I did not replace the seals on the rack and pinion. I'm sure in time I will need to though, but for now this works.
Thanks for putting the effort in to make these video's with all the small details and specifics. Make's them even more interesting to watch even if it is a repair or upgrade I'm not needing (yet!) to do on my own 4runner. Awesome video's!
Hey Peter, we're glad you like the videos we're making. Our videos aren't like watching the hottest Hollywood movie release but I reckon they have some entertainment value but they definitely have educational, informational and instructional value. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Pro Tip: The 5/8-11 coupler nut sold at my local Lowes was too small and spun inside the steering rack guide nut. But like Timmy said, the one from Home Depot fit perfect!
I completed the steering rack guide upgrade yesterday and used the old style cap with no problems (as far as I can tell). I have a Quinn digital torque wrench that also does angles so I was able to get the 19 degree adjustment almost exactly 19 degrees (actual was 20 degrees). The only issue I had was that I used the thicker blue loctite and between the time I screwed the cap in and torqued it to 18 ft/lbs the loctite seemed to set up. So when I applied the torque wrench it beeped that it was at 18 immediately without the end cap moving. I did snug it up with a ratchet so I could have been really close to begin with as 18 ft/lbs is not much. Anyway, after tightening the lock ring I noted that my end cap was just a little bit tighter than it was before so I think I'm close. But, I'm tempted to remove the lock ring and end cap and redo the adjustment procedure to be sure. I can't decide if it's necessary or not but, I'm really anal about things like this and obsessed with getting it exactly right so I think it's going to gnaw at me. When I drove it everything felt really good but, I'm not sure I would notice unless it was really off. Also, it seems like the way the spring retention is designed is not very good. I mean how would I know if the spring fell off or was not centered (I used the grease on the spring trick). Did the new style end cap have any sort of protrusion (like the steering rack guide does) to help keep the spring centered? The old style end cap did not.
I don’t think either of the end cap styles have a nice place for the spring to sit. With the protrusion on the guide, once the spring is over that protrusion and you start to tighten the cap onto the rack, that spring won't be able to walk off that protrusion and it will stay centered. Jordan used a bit of greasy to hold the spring onto the guide so it wouldn't fall off while trying to get the cap threads started. The tightening procedure is def unique but we found that when we tightened it too much, the steering was super tight so we had to back off using the newer style guide. But on the flip side, if you’re too loose, you’ll feel that too & want to tighten it up more.
Thanks again for another great video! So if your are having problems removing the outer assembly housing nut with channel locks try using a pipe wrench. I found that the pipe wrench had more leverage and grip removing the housing nut.
I hope this repair helps with the clunk I hear each time I turn the wheel to the right or backing out of driveway and sometimes going over bumps... If not, I'll wait until the steering rack starts leaking, at which time I'll replace it with an OEM guide... Thanks for the video Tim, much appreciated!
Tim and crew I have enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos thank you very much! One note, it would be awesome at the end to have an outcome such as this was an awesome upgrade worked great, added this or that to the steering. ALOT of the videos are in a sense maintenance and an upgrade to parts and the info would be great to know. Thanks again for all of the awesome videos!
Hey Bill, you make a good point. We don't let the viewer know the result of these repairs and mods for the most part. The reason most of the time is these jobs took a long time to begin with and the person we helped doesn't necessarily want to go take a long test drive and then come back to report the result and Sean and I probably wouldn't want to wait either after a long day. The reason Jordan didn't take an immediate test drive for this repair is we just put headers on his truck right before this video and the high temperature paint he used on the headers had a special curing process that he had to do before driving it. But, what we can do is have the person report back and then Sean and I can get together at a later date to record a short clip letting the viewer know the reported result. I don't know how many people read the video description but we often add helpful information we think of after the video is already up on the channel. The only way to alter a video that is already live is to delete it, make the changes, and upload it again and I don't like doing that because we then lose all the comments that people made. Thanks a lot for this suggestion. I think this will add value to our videos. We just have to remember to do it now.
Tim, Thank you for explaining very valid as I know these vids take a a lot of time already. You guys are awesome! Again, thanks for the videos, much appreciated!
Thanks Bill and you're welcome. The research for the repair and the repair itself can take a lot of time but the video editing can be very time consuming especially since I say a ton of Uhhs and Umms and we try to edit a lot of those out. I have to learn to speak better I guess. Since I have more free time than Sean, I'm now helping with the editing going through the video first doing all the rough cuts and then hand it over to Sean to polish it up and make it look a lot better. I now understand how much time Sean had to put into editing these videos because it's very labor intensive and tedious to do. We just upgraded our camera from a GoPro Hero 2 to a Hero 5. I don't know if you noticed on this video, but the video quality has gone way up. But, this new camera has created a problem. The video files are larger now to get the increased quality and my old Macbook can't handle it. I'm probably going to end up dropping $1500-$2000 on a new computer so I can continue to help with the editing process. Oh well, my computer is pretty outdated so I guess it was time. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman Definitely noticed the quality! hey as an aside, I notice the dirt rag gear, you crazy MTB s. I live not far from fruits and Moab. have to ride the bikes.... editing is time consuming I bet. thanks again, my 02 t4r thanks you...now onto those lower control arms....grrrr. take care
Mountain biking is an awesome sport and you live in a great place for it. I've ridden in Moab, Fruita and Grand Junction a few times. Take it easy Bill.
Is it necessary to replace the steering rack cap? My version of the cap is an outty instead of an inny. Instead of using an allen wrench you would use a regular wrench which I think is more practical as you don't have to purchase the 5/8" coupler.
@@TimmyTheToolman This is becoming a real issue for me because multiple Toyota dealers are cancelling my order on the new style cap. They say the part is now on back order. I can attempt to use the old style cap and if it doesn't work I'll put the old roller back in. I'm working on a 99 Tacoma that I've pieced parts from 3 different steering racks together to make one decent rack. All 3 of those racks have bad roller bearing guides. Edit: Looks like Mark has a comment below saying he used the old style cap. I'm going to give it a shot as well.
Hey Tim, Just wanted to let you know that this video was very helpful. I upgraded my 97 4Runner to the 2001-2002 style guide. Unfortunately it didn't fix my "clunk" noise over bumps. Steering is great. Think my reused lower front strut bushings may be the culprit when I did the Tundra lift. Hope to swap in new bushings there soon. Thanks again!
Glad you found it helpful. Hope you can figure out the clunk in the front end of your rig. If you feel the clunk in your steering, it could be play in the steering shaft. We have a video on how to fix it. th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman I don't feel it in the steering. Sounds like metal slapping metal as if the strut bushings are collapsing and the washers are hitting the top strut mount. Bilstein struts only came with one new bushing and I put the new one on top, reused an old one underneath the strut cap. Thinking that old one is collapsing and the washer is hitting the top mount making the clunk noise. All front suspension and bushings are new.
@@TimmyTheToolman I replaced the lower bushings of the upper strut cap with OEM ones. That seems to have fixed my clunk noise. Thought you would like to know. Thanks!
I wasn't concerned with the cost of coupler. I just wanted to use the old style cap as I thought of the two it was the more elegant solution and easier to use. If it won't work I'll be sure to let you know. Thanks.
So I was still not satisfied with the position of the steering guide so I adjusted it for a third time but, I did it differently this time. My goal was to have the end cap tight enough so the spring caused the steering guide to be in constant contact with the tube but, not tight enough to cause the steering to drag. So, I jacked up the front so I could move the tires from side to side and loosened the end cap. Then I tightened the end cap with a ratchet until I felt it stop (steering was impeded/would not move). Then I moved the tires from side to side varying how tight the end cap was (with the spring installed). I very quickly developed a feel for when the end cap was too tight or too loose. So (after applying the loctite), starting with the end cap at a point where it felt like the steering was dragging, I loosened the end cap a hair past where the steering just started moving freely (I didn't loosen it much). What surprised me was how little I had to loosen the end cap from where the steering would not turn at all (about 18 ft/lbs torque) to where it turned freely from side to side. In my case, I think the 19 degrees was way too much. I'm going to test drive it on the road this weekend to make sure it's not too tight but, otherwise I think I'm finally happy with the adjustment. I hope this helps someone and thanks for the video. I wouldn't have attempted this without it.
It's been several weeks now and I've not had any adverse issues and I'm very pleased with the feel of the steering after adjusting the steering guide as per the procedure above.
Really appreciate the videos. They are fantastic!!! My mechanic says that I need the rack guide replaced. With the wheels on the ground, I don’t sense any play in the tie rod either front to back or up and down. How do I know that I need the guide replaced? And if so do I need to replace cap nut and locking ring? Will the updated guide and spring work with the original cap nut and locking ring? Many thanks for your help!!!
Well, are you experiencing any abnormal steering play? That would be the reason to investigate into potential causes of the excessive steering play and possibly suspect the rack guide as the culprit. You know, I don't know for sure if the old cap and lock ring can work with the new spring or not. Since Jordan ordered them, I was thinking it was necessary to replace them.
Thanks again for this video! I did my upgrade today and everything turned out great. The only minor issue I ran into was that I couldn’t hand thread the guide cap as you did with the hex nut. After the project, steering felt stable but I did notice when I was coming out a turn, my steering doesn’t come back to a full center. Did you happen to have a similar issue?
Thank you, Mr. Timmy, I am trying to look for these parts. I already found them at a Toyota agency, but according to them, they are not compatible with my 4runner 2000 3.4 limited.
The steering rack guide in this video is an updated guide that was used on 2001 and 2002 models. This is why it's listed as not compatible with your rig. But, all these steering racks are the same. The newer guide will work for your 2000.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you, Mr. Timmy, I will try that one and I'll let you know if it works. God bless you. Thanks to your videos, it helps many people.
@robertogarcia35 You're welcome. If you're seeking a fix for play in your steering, it could be an issue documented in this video: th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Gv64g-yiYHjaoKa4
Timmy, thanks for the video, as always. I have a question. I have an '01 and it has the newer style guide already but I'm seeing someguys (jhelm) that say you can still do this adjustment if you have the newer guide. What's your opinion? Something worth messing with? I recently lifted mine and replaced literally every single front end/suspension part except for the rack itself and I'm still getting some wandering/bump steer feeling at highway speed. I had a second alignment done to get my caster further positive and that did help some but the bump steer feeling is still there and its aggravating as heck. I would imagine a new rack would be aweosme but mine doesn't leak or anything. I do also have a mysterious clunk when backing in the garage that I wonder if it could be this. I did the slip joint fix and man what a freaking difference. So its all tight, it just wants to walk back and forth as I go down an imperfect road. Thanks man. Sorry for the dissertation.
Have you addressed anything with the rear? Worn out rear control arm bushings can cause bump steer. Also, the eimkeith panhard correction kit (PCK) might help too.
What racks also work for the 99 4 runner? Do Tacoma’s work as well? Also what year? New to your channel cause I purchased a runner THANKS FOR BEING A TOYOTA LEGEND
For your 99 4runner, you could obviously use a rack from any year 3rd generation 4runner, 1996-2002. You could also use a steering rack from any year 1st Gen Tacoma 1995-2004. 1st Gen Tacomas are very similar to 3rd Gen 4runners.
I have a 1999 2wd base Tacoma model non pre runner with all new upper and lower and balljoints and inner and outer tierods and experiencing a slight steering wobble only at 55 or 60 mph or hitting a small hole in the ground everything else is tight. Was wondering if this could be the culprit?? Thanks for your videos and how to tips.
Hi Tim. Once again, thank you for taking time to post all these Videos. I was always good with my hands but didn't really have the know how with cars.- More like an electronic repair guy-. Your videos help me to save lots!! of $$$ and most important maintain my beloved 4runner the way i want which is do the job the rite way. I am considering to change my 97 SR5 steering rack. I noticed a small leak on the drivers side when i moved the boot to replace my outer Tie Rod End. Is there any actual improvement on steering with this mod? I am thinking if i should just buy a rack for an 02 if i have to replace it.
Hey Terry, we're stoked to hear our videos are helping you work on your 4runner and you're saving lots of money. We love hearing this! Yes, Jordan said the steering was improved but I don't think it was a mind-blowing improvement. Are you experiencing sloppy steering? If it's only a small leak and your steering feels good, I'd just drive it as is. OEM steering racks are expensive. You can buy aftermarket but I don't think they last as long.
My steering is a bit sloppy since I did the tundra bilstain upgrade. But that could be from the lift and change of geometry. It feels heavy when maneuvering to park thought. Fluid is full. And did change fluid. I own this track 20 years 1st and original owner and I'd like to keep it in pristine condition. I have buy 2 more cars but the 3rd Gen 4R is a keeper. It looks like he just came out of the assembly line. aftermarket rack is a NoNo!!
Hey Terry, there's a chance your steering rack is starved for fluid. Drain the reservoir with a turkey baster or maybe a syringe with a plastic tube attached to it and then get a flashlight and look into the reservoir. If the screen on the bottom is gunked up with black crud, a cleaning might help out. You can remove the reservoir fairly easily. 3 bolts hold it onto the pump and you have to disconnect the return line. Clean it out really good with some brake clean or carb cleaner and then put it back together. There's a rubber o-ring that seals the reservoir onto the pump so you just have to make sure it's intact before putting it back together.
I don't know the part number. Just tried to find it on the Camelback Toyota website and they only show the reservoir and not the o-ring. If you can't find it online, maybe just visit a local Toyota dealership because they'll probably be able to find the correct part number for you.
Awesome video as usual thank you! Great detail and explanation at every step. Going to replace my rack, rack guide, poly bushings, and outer tie rods on a 1998 Tacoma 4x4 V6. Should be all the same parts in your video right? Any recommendations for grease-able outer tie rods? I went with moog before but they rusted quick and have heard they don't make'em like they used to.
They should all be the same parts with the exception of the tie rods. I'm pretty sure the Tacoma outer tie rods are different than the 4runner outer tie rods. I only like using OEM for critical steering components and no not recommend aftermarket. Also, having a greasable joint isn't really necessary. With Toyota OEM tie rods, the boot seals in the grease and it can't go anywhere. As long as the boot stays intact, the joint will have grease.
@@TimmyTheToolman Just realized after talking to the online Toyota parts dealer who I ordered from, the rack (44250-35042) actually sounds like it comes with the updated rack guide because it has the cap/nut (45524-37010) already installed. That should indicate it has the updated guide right?
I started this upgrade today because of a bad shake and tight steering in the front end and after replacing all the joints this is where I ended up. When I was greasing the cylinder p/s fluid started pouring out of the guide hole. I quickly centered the wheel which slowed it to a steady drip. Did I happen to do this as my rack failed or did I turn too far without the guide. Thanks
I'm not sure what your symptoms of fluid coming out means. What I can say is we didn't experience that. Zero ATF came out when we did this job. Maybe an internal seal is shot. I guess put it back together and hope for the best.
Did you do a follow-up video to this testing how the steering felt during a test drive? This is a very interesting video as a lot of Hondas have this problem from what I've read. I've got a 2005 Honda Civic Type-R (I live in the UK) and I've had issues after fitting a refurbished EPS rack after my original rack (which I've still got) developed a knock. Could a rack guide that's out of adjustment cause a clatter/knock sound at lower speeds and/or when driving over rough road surfaces? I'm guessing if too loose/tight you would get some sort of clatter? If so I think my original rack may actually be fine with just a few parts needed to do the fix. The reconditioned rack I've got fitted at the moment has very stiff steering that wanders on the motorway, doesn't feel safe at all and has next to no self-centre. All suspension components are fine, do you think the guide may just be far too tight and in need of adjusting? The parts and method look almost identical to your video. Thanks.
Hey Martin, we put an update in the video description. Jordan's steering did improve after this job and his steering is still good since I talk to him on a regular basis. I suppose a rack guide that's worn or too loose could cause a knock or clatter. If it's too tight, the steering would most likely feel stiff and not re-center properly. I guess it's worth a shot to replace the rack guide and see if your steering improves. Wandering steering could also be caused by worn out steering rack bushings and by other worn out components on the front like the tie rods.
Thanks, I didn't see that. That's good to hear. I'll adjust the guide and see how I get on. I will report back once I have it done. Thanks. All front end components have been replaced sadly, so I hope all is fixed when the rack is fixed.
So this may be a silly question but within the first few steps you say to leave the steering wheel unlocked (as in just leave the steering wheel as is and make sure it’s not locked up?) and how crucial is it to have the vehicle jacked up with wheels a bit to the left? Looks like the wheels I turned nearly a full turn correct?
Honestly, we shot this video quite a while ago and don't remember all the details. If you just follow how we did it, you'll be successful doing the job. In short, I'm trying not to have to watch my own video to answer your quesfion.
I recently had lower ball joint failure on my 3rd 4Runner (driver's side, luckily I was only going 25mph and didn't cause a rollover or a much more serious accident). The casting on the steering rack where the guide screws in broke off the rack during the accident, and somehow the guide remained inside the half-broken hole in the casting. What do you recommend I do? Complete rack replacement?
I have installed new rack and pinion all Toyota parts. New tie rod ends, sway bar bushings. Upper and lower A arms , upper and lower ball joints both sides on my 2000 tundra . After install all to spec I’m noticing movement in the center bolt and long bolt bushing location. The new rack came with 2 bushings installed . And the center bushing has a factory rear washer on the center bushing. I’m getting a clunking noise when I come out of driveway witch has a little dip angel on it any ideas would be helpful
You are probably just seeing bushing movement. The bushing give a little with steering input. The clunk could be coming from the steering shaft. Check out our Steering Play Fix video.
What were the symptoms? I have a vibration at 20-25 & 60-65. Upper and lower ball joints are new, inner and outer tie rods are new. With the car in the air and one person moving the wheel, there was play left to right. Putting my hand on the boot I could feel the rack moving in there. Presuming that means rack time (it doesn't leak, but moves)
Steering just felt like it had extra play in it. From what you explained, it sound't like your rack guide needs adjusting or replacing if you have the old style rack guide. But, that vibration could be tires out of balance. It could be worn out control are bushings.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just had the wheels dynamically balanced as that was my thought as well. Control arm bushings look ok. With the car in the air and one person moving the wheel and my hand on the boot, I can feel it moving in the rack
@@andresadoff6762 Do the guide upgrade and you might also want to check for slop in the shaft. Check out this video too: th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html
I ran the part numbers on Toyota and got hits on all the parts. Are these parts the same fora 2nd Gen Tacoma? I ran my VIN on Toyota and input the part name and did not come up with the part.
Question, I installed a reman rack unit on an 06 tundra. The steering is a bit stiffer. The wheel returns to center when turning. Could the "stiffness" be adjusted by readjusting the reman unit by this method?
When joining the steering rag joint halves, you ended up putting the steering shaft in a slight bind. Loosen the pinch bolt for the upper halve of the rag joint, and this will let the steering shaft de-tension. Then tighten the pinch bolt, and you should be good.
I'm wondering if it's necessary to replace the spring and other parts and instead just inspect the parts, clean and grease them and assemble to proper specs? Toyota parts are generally pretty durable.
You do make a valid point. It seems Jordan could have reused the cap, lock ring and maybe even the spring as well. Springs do develop a memory and wear out so I think the spring replacement is smart to replace. I don't know if there's something with the new guide that requires it to have the newer cap but it sure looks like the old cap would work just fine. When I talk to Jordan next, I'll ask him about it.
I got a reply from Jordan and he said he never thought to try the old cap with the new guide because he figured Toyota changed the cap design for a reason. The new guide design uses a different cap and Jordan never questioned it. Since the cap, lock ring and spring aren't expensive parts to replace, I'd suggest replacing them so you don't find compatibility issues and then have to run to the dealership and hope they have the parts in stock.
So what's the purpose of replacing those parts? I have a 95 Tacoma and the actual shaft has play up and down on the driver side, I just stumbled upon your video, I don't know whether to do what you guys did or replace the whole rack ..
The guide can be cause of play or knocking in your steering. The guide Jordan installed in his steering rack is an improved design. It's worth a try before dropping big money on a new steering rack.
Any suggestions for getting the original bolt off? Mine will not come off even with PB over night and an impact. Bought channels as suggested and no luck on the lock ring either…
Yes, it will make the steering sloppy. Worn out steering rack bushings could also make the steering sloppy. th-cam.com/video/YywcR0E9bM4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=a0KDNiPelFLR-i6T
@@TimmyTheToolman I replaced the rack bushing with poly bushings but the steering itself keeps getting worse and worse. To the point I turn the wheel and it takes like half a turn to catch and start turning
Can you tell me what the symptoms were that led you to replacing the guide? I have about 3/4 of an inch of left-right play and am not sure where to start.
th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html Here's another of Timmy the Toolman's videos. It shows a couple ways to check for steering shaft play in a 3rd Gen 4Runner. You might also have another person in the car while you feel the rag joint. The rag joint is the small u-joint that transitions the angle from the slanted steering column to vertical into the top of the steering rack. Hope this helps.
Will this work on a 2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited 2WD? The website says it will not work but the rack shown in your video seems to have the same nut style as mine and not the indented style of the new one. After replacing the guide, will I need to get an alignment done? Thanks ahead of time.
I don't know for sure if there any differences in the years and models for the steering racks. I would assume they are all the same though. To confirm, you could check with an online Toyota parts seller and put in different years and see if the part number for the steering rack changes. You will not need an alignment after replacing the guide because you did nothing to change any of the alignment settings.
Mine is doing this exact thing. Def plan on doing this, but my question is: that vertical play thats allowed.. what kind of symptoms will you see in the steering wheel?
@@puremaledark8305 The steering wheel should be tight in the steering column but when you turn the wheel, there might be extra play from a worn out steering rack guide, worn out steering rack bushings or possibly worn out inner or outer tie rods. There can also be play in the shaft which can cause play. The shaft is two parts that can telescope together in the even of a front end collision. Play can develop between these two halves and play can also develop in the tilt wheel ball. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html
Timmy The Toolman yes sir, already taken care of all those issues, thanks to you video. I was just curious of what symptoms youd feel if the rack guide was the only issue. Id figure irregular tire wear and a slight shimmy?
@@puremaledark8305 I think the main symptom would be detectable excessive play in the steering like the front end wanders because of the slop and it takes excessive steering wheel input to get the vehicle to steer where you want it to. The alignment would not be affected from a bad steering rack guide. If you're wondering if there's excessive play, jack up the front end, maybe remove the tires, and disconnect the steering rack boot so you can expose the steering rack shaft. Grab ahold of it and push and pull on it. If there's slop there, you'll feel it. The old roller style rack guide was replaced with the new bushing style and it's an improvement. Before succumbing to replacing the whole steering rack, I would definitely advise people #1, replace the steering rack bushings and #2, replace the steering rack guide.
The FSM manual suggests a Molybdenum Disulfide Lithium Base Grease. Jordan just used what he had on hand and he wasn't exactly sure it was lithium based or not. You can pick up a Moly lithium grease at most auto parts stores. Hope the repairs works for you.
Hey Craig, have you looked at your lower control arm bushings? They can get sloppy and cause a clunking feeling in the front end. I'm guessing you've already checked the outer tie rods, inner tie rods and balljoints?
OEM ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, and now the rack guide all replaced within the last 2 months.. The more I think about it, the pop started not long after I had the work done. I haven't checked the torque on the cam adjusters which could be a problem since an alignment was done after the work. It only pops on right turns, but not always. I can always get it to pop in a right turn and halfway through the turn give it a little gas and turn a bit harder. I really appreciate you taking the time for this and all your videos!
Hey Craig, I've heard about people having lots of trouble with alignment shops and one of the reported problems was the tech not tightening the cam adjusters enough and they came loose. Definitely check them out.
If I already have the new style on my 4R, is it possible that it has come loose causing the sloppy steering? Would bringing the torque back to spec be a possible solution or do these not really move over time?
WasHereAlone It's always a possibilty it came loose and it would be easy to check. Recheck the guide adjustment, check all the mounting hardware and make sure that's all tight. You can also get under the vehicle while someone turns the wheel back and forth and you're looking at what's going on. You might spot the reason for the play in your steering. Have you replaced the steering rack bushings?
I'd back off the cap and try the tightening and adjusting procedure again. Your steering wheel should definitely return to center. It sounds like it's too tight and binding the steering rack shaft.
Hard steering could be caused by the guide if somebody worked on the vehicle and overtightened the adjustment nut. If the steering rack was never touched, it wouldn't magically tighten up. If anything, a worn out guide would cause looser steering. Is the fluid level good? Is the power steering pump whining at all? It could be that you steering rack is starved of fluid because the fine mesh screen on the bottom of the reservoir is clogged up. We have a video for doing a power steering flush and reservoir screen cleaning on a 3rd Gen 4runner that would give you an idea on how to accomplish it on your Tacoma. th-cam.com/video/5k61KXRK8bM/w-d-xo.html
Before HOW, WHY? What was the symptom? What was the troubleshooting steps to pinpoint this is the cause? Not the tie rods, bushings, etc? 19 degree, ha, not 20, not 22.5. This is crazy.
The symptom would be play in your steering and you've ruled out other known possible causes for steering play. For an inspection, you could release the clamps for the boots on the steering rack and grab ahold of the shaft pushing and pulling on it trying to detect play. There shouldn't be any play. Also, the new steering rack guide is an improvement over the old design. The 19 degree instructions came right out of the Toyota factory service manual.
I think I have watched all of your videos. I have a 3rd gen ltd but the previous owner was a dumbass and never changed the oil. So I have to swap the engine with one out of a Tacoma.
My steering on toyota corolla was clunking when goes over rough and bumpy roads and noises came from under neath I gave it to my mechanic he said that steering rack bushes will be changed and may be he did something else . I cant afford a whole rack assembly replacement . After bushes replaced steering is good noises hav gone but steering didnt come back after u turn why ?
@@TimmyTheToolman I have a 02 as well, my steering feels loose at highway speed and vibration. Thinking of having mine tightend or replaced . are these syptoms of the rack guide? I have replaced everything suspension wise besides the rack with oem parts and still getting vibration and tire feathering
@@DjMarkMetcalfe Have you replaced the steering rack bushings? th-cam.com/video/YywcR0E9bM4/w-d-xo.html Have you looked into possible play in the shaft that can be fixed with a couple tack welds? There's also a little fix you can do to the tilt ball. th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html Have you had a shop check your wheel balancing?
I have a question not sure if anyone can help. I have 96 4runner limited and I'm installing the MCM Long travel kit I got from SRQ Fabrication. With ADS 8 Coilovers. I want to upgrade the steering rack to a land cruisers if possible. I know they make a kit for the 2 and 3rd gen Tacoma. If not guess I'll have to find a fab shop make one for me if even possible. I figured I e spent near 5 grand on long travel for front end why not try to beef everything else up to withstand the wear and tear. Anyway so so long. Just want to do as much research and advice as possible before I install
Quick question Timmy: is it absolutely necessary to change the big nut that the lock ring goes over? Or is it ok to re use the same one that comes out of my 97?
That's a good question and I don't have the answer. The newer guide design comes with the different plug, but I don't know if the old plug is compatible with the new guide. I bet if you simply took some measurements with a digital caliper, you'd get your answer.
@@TimmyTheToolman well, loose steering is one. I checked the play when I did the ball joints and it didn't have much though, but I am having a power steering fluid leak from the big cap. When I did the ball joints and sway bar links, the steering tightened up a lot!. When I bought it, I could tell they used the wrong fluid in the power steering system and I plan on changing the rack guide and then flushing/filling the power steering system
@@zenjon7892 We have a video that basically shows most of what you need to know and that's our Front Differential Replacement video. Most of the work to reseal the oil pan is getting the front differential out of your way. Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/w_gPiDvh9v4/w-d-xo.html Be sure to read the video description and the comment we pinned. In the pinned comment, we discuss a much easier way to get the differential out and back in. Once the differential is out of the way, it's just a simple process of removing the oil pan bolts, separating the pan from the engine block, cleaning up both surfaces and resealing it with some Toyota Black FIPG. To learn how to separate the oil pan, you can use the same technique and tool we employed in our Transmission Filter Replacement video: th-cam.com/video/tuGazNhuEtM/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2000 tacoma(3rzprerunner) and i have to replace the steering rack ..i could order the rack and pinion for an 02 right? that way it has the better design guide...thank you!! Subscribed!!
Hey Daniel, that would make sense but I'm guessing any OEM steering rack for the 1st Gen Tacoma years coming from Toyota now has the upgraded guide design. I just checked and the 2000 and 2002 list the same part number on the Camelback Toyota website so it doesn't matter. So, you'll get the upgraded guide regardless of the year you order because they both have the same part number. Link to the 2000 Part: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/2000/Toyota/Tacoma/index.cfm?action=partDetail§ion=STEERING&group=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&subgroup=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&component=Gear%20assy&partnumber=4425035042&vehicleid=69987&siteid=214329 Link to the 2002 Part: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/2002/Toyota/Tacoma/index.cfm?action=partDetail§ion=STEERING&group=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&subgroup=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&component=Gear%20assy&partnumber=4425035042&vehicleid=70003&siteid=214329
@@jessevielleux7889 You're very welcome Jesse. Great to hear you've been putting some of our videos to good use. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
So i have a 96 4wd, i tried to purchase the part on camelback website but it says the "part does not fit on my vehicle". Does it only say that because it's not the original intention for that part cause i have a 96?
The regular guy give them a call. This roller bushing changed from a roller bearing to the one we show you..And when you call, tell them Timmy the toolman sent ya! But be prepared for them to tell you it won’t work. And this is why you should watch this video!
@@TimmyTheToolman okay thank you Tim. I actually wasn't expecting for a reply since this is an old video, kinda. So much respect, your a legend :) I always enjoyed watching your tutorials btw keep them up
That's a good question and I don't know the answer. I'll ask my friend Jordan since it was his rig and he bought the parts for the job. I'll get back to you with his answer.
I get conflicting part numbers for my '98 4Runner V6 4WD. I've seen the 45504-35031 end sub assy on other write ups as well but according to ToyotaPartsDeal.com that part is not correct and they specify the 45504-35010. Same with the rack cap guide: 45524-35010 on the website vs 45524-37010 on your video. Thoughts?
Don't know what to tell you John. Those are the part numbers Jordan had for the project and it worked fine for his rig. The cap and guide Jordan bought are the upgraded design and not the same that came on the rig originally. Maybe that's where the discrepancy lies.
That tightening procedure for that cap doesn't leave it really tight. Is it worth a shot to go through the tightening procedure for that cap before replacing the guide? Maybe it is. Jordan knew he wanted to update the guide to the newer version so we were going to do the job regardless.
Our original videos with no external mic were much worse. The audio now is way better. We are thinking of getting a different mic but I don't know if it will improve. The new GoPro we are using requires a special adapter that you can plug in an external mic into. We can't use anything large because then we'd have trouble manipulating the camera into tight spots. Hopefully the new compact mic we get will be better. Thanks for the comment and suggestion.
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Why subscribe? Because Timmy rocks! If you have a 3rd Gen, this channel is essential.
Thanks David! We appreciate the kind words. Happy Wrenching!
Another awesome video production! I'm a college kid that's just now finding a passion for working on my 4Runner and car mechanics in general. I can't thank you guys enough for breaking everything down so simply and providing such great, clear instructions. Hats off to you, gentlemen!
Roman Schnobrich that’s awesome bro! It can be frustrating at times especially without the right tools for the job. The more tools you start to accumulate, the easier things will get. Thanks for stopping by & commenting. We love hearing about people like you are feeling empowered to tackle a job based on our video.
Hey Tim, I know this is an old video and all.. But I just wanted to thank you for posting this. You saved me $900.00.
I went to a pick and pull, grabbed a used rack and pinion for 50 bucks and raided RockAuto for the rest. Only took me 2 hours all said and done.
You're the best!
You're very welcome Hans. I'm glad to hear our video helped you save money. Good job doing your own work and Happy Wrenching!
I wanted to ask about this. Did you reused an old parts like rack guide, spring, cap etc?
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi Tim, I think he was replying to my comment (not the video) about using an old rack and pinion.
Yes, I reused the whole rack, only replacing the inner and outer tie rods. I bought new boots and bushings as well.
I did not replace the seals on the rack and pinion. I'm sure in time I will need to though, but for now this works.
Thanks for putting the effort in to make these video's with all the small details and specifics. Make's them even more interesting to watch even if it is a repair or upgrade I'm not needing (yet!) to do on my own 4runner. Awesome video's!
Hey Peter, we're glad you like the videos we're making. Our videos aren't like watching the hottest Hollywood movie release but I reckon they have some entertainment value but they definitely have educational, informational and instructional value. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Pro Tip: The 5/8-11 coupler nut sold at my local Lowes was too small and spun inside the steering rack guide nut. But like Timmy said, the one from Home Depot fit perfect!
That's weird that the Lowes coupler of the same size doesn't work. But, good to know.
I watch your videos for Fun lol, nice seeing you on 3rd gen mafia group Timmy!.
I completed the steering rack guide upgrade yesterday and used the old style cap with no problems (as far as I can tell). I have a Quinn digital torque wrench that also does angles so I was able to get the 19 degree adjustment almost exactly 19 degrees (actual was 20 degrees). The only issue I had was that I used the thicker blue loctite and between the time I screwed the cap in and torqued it to 18 ft/lbs the loctite seemed to set up. So when I applied the torque wrench it beeped that it was at 18 immediately without the end cap moving. I did snug it up with a ratchet so I could have been really close to begin with as 18 ft/lbs is not much. Anyway, after tightening the lock ring I noted that my end cap was just a little bit tighter than it was before so I think I'm close. But, I'm tempted to remove the lock ring and end cap and redo the adjustment procedure to be sure. I can't decide if it's necessary or not but, I'm really anal about things like this and obsessed with getting it exactly right so I think it's going to gnaw at me. When I drove it everything felt really good but, I'm not sure I would notice unless it was really off. Also, it seems like the way the spring retention is designed is not very good. I mean how would I know if the spring fell off or was not centered (I used the grease on the spring trick). Did the new style end cap have any sort of protrusion (like the steering rack guide does) to help keep the spring centered? The old style end cap did not.
I don’t think either of the end cap styles have a nice place for the spring to sit. With the protrusion on the guide, once the spring is over that protrusion and you start to tighten the cap onto the rack, that spring won't be able to walk off that protrusion and it will stay centered. Jordan used a bit of greasy to hold the spring onto the guide so it wouldn't fall off while trying to get the cap threads started. The tightening procedure is def unique but we found that when we tightened it too much, the steering was super tight so we had to back off using the newer style guide. But on the flip side, if you’re too loose, you’ll feel that too & want to tighten it up more.
Thanks again for another great video! So if your are having problems removing the outer assembly housing nut with channel locks try using a pipe wrench. I found that the pipe wrench had more leverage and grip removing the housing nut.
We're glad you like the video and thanks for sharing the pipe wrench tip.
Thanks again for the great how-to's!
We're glad you're liking the videos and thanks for taking the time to comment.
Thanks guys
You're welcome David.
I hope this repair helps with the clunk I hear each time I turn the wheel to the right or backing out of driveway and sometimes going over bumps... If not, I'll wait until the steering rack starts leaking, at which time I'll replace it with an OEM guide... Thanks for the video Tim, much appreciated!
It sounds like it could be lower control arm bushings from what you're describing.
DK327 It also could be your Steering rack mounting Bushings
Thanks Tim. This helped me a lot.
You're welcome
What a great detailed explained video....great tag team...keep it up helped alot..thankx guys
Thanks! Good to hear our video helped you out. You're very welcome.
Awesome job guys! Just what I was looking for! Thanks
Thanks Mike. You're welcome and good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
Tim and crew I have enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos thank you very much! One note, it would be awesome at the end to have an outcome such as this was an awesome upgrade worked great, added this or that to the steering. ALOT of the videos are in a sense maintenance and an upgrade to parts and the info would be great to know. Thanks again for all of the awesome videos!
Hey Bill, you make a good point. We don't let the viewer know the result of these repairs and mods for the most part. The reason most of the time is these jobs took a long time to begin with and the person we helped doesn't necessarily want to go take a long test drive and then come back to report the result and Sean and I probably wouldn't want to wait either after a long day. The reason Jordan didn't take an immediate test drive for this repair is we just put headers on his truck right before this video and the high temperature paint he used on the headers had a special curing process that he had to do before driving it.
But, what we can do is have the person report back and then Sean and I can get together at a later date to record a short clip letting the viewer know the reported result. I don't know how many people read the video description but we often add helpful information we think of after the video is already up on the channel. The only way to alter a video that is already live is to delete it, make the changes, and upload it again and I don't like doing that because we then lose all the comments that people made.
Thanks a lot for this suggestion. I think this will add value to our videos. We just have to remember to do it now.
Tim, Thank you for explaining very valid as I know these vids take a a lot of time already. You guys are awesome! Again, thanks for the videos, much appreciated!
Thanks Bill and you're welcome. The research for the repair and the repair itself can take a lot of time but the video editing can be very time consuming especially since I say a ton of Uhhs and Umms and we try to edit a lot of those out. I have to learn to speak better I guess. Since I have more free time than Sean, I'm now helping with the editing going through the video first doing all the rough cuts and then hand it over to Sean to polish it up and make it look a lot better. I now understand how much time Sean had to put into editing these videos because it's very labor intensive and tedious to do.
We just upgraded our camera from a GoPro Hero 2 to a Hero 5. I don't know if you noticed on this video, but the video quality has gone way up. But, this new camera has created a problem. The video files are larger now to get the increased quality and my old Macbook can't handle it. I'm probably going to end up dropping $1500-$2000 on a new computer so I can continue to help with the editing process. Oh well, my computer is pretty outdated so I guess it was time.
Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman
Definitely noticed the quality! hey as an aside, I notice the dirt rag gear, you crazy MTB s. I live not far from fruits and Moab. have to ride the bikes.... editing is time consuming I bet. thanks again, my 02 t4r thanks you...now onto those lower control arms....grrrr. take care
Mountain biking is an awesome sport and you live in a great place for it. I've ridden in Moab, Fruita and Grand Junction a few times.
Take it easy Bill.
Tim
Thanks for your video is very helpful
You're welcome Charlie. Good luck with the job and hope it works to take play out of your steering.
Is it necessary to replace the steering rack cap? My version of the cap is an outty instead of an inny. Instead of using an allen wrench you would use a regular wrench which I think is more practical as you don't have to purchase the 5/8" coupler.
You know, I"m not sure if the newer cap needs to be paired with the newer guide. But, those couplers are very affordable at a hardware store.
@@TimmyTheToolman This is becoming a real issue for me because multiple Toyota dealers are cancelling my order on the new style cap. They say the part is now on back order. I can attempt to use the old style cap and if it doesn't work I'll put the old roller back in. I'm working on a 99 Tacoma that I've pieced parts from 3 different steering racks together to make one decent rack. All 3 of those racks have bad roller bearing guides.
Edit: Looks like Mark has a comment below saying he used the old style cap. I'm going to give it a shot as well.
@@andrewo8987 Ok, good luck Andrew. Hope it works out.
Hey Tim, Just wanted to let you know that this video was very helpful. I upgraded my 97 4Runner to the 2001-2002 style guide. Unfortunately it didn't fix my "clunk" noise over bumps. Steering is great. Think my reused lower front strut bushings may be the culprit when I did the Tundra lift. Hope to swap in new bushings there soon. Thanks again!
Glad you found it helpful. Hope you can figure out the clunk in the front end of your rig. If you feel the clunk in your steering, it could be play in the steering shaft. We have a video on how to fix it. th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman I don't feel it in the steering. Sounds like metal slapping metal as if the strut bushings are collapsing and the washers are hitting the top strut mount. Bilstein struts only came with one new bushing and I put the new one on top, reused an old one underneath the strut cap. Thinking that old one is collapsing and the washer is hitting the top mount making the clunk noise. All front suspension and bushings are new.
@@gritsandcornbread Yeah, your theory might be right then.
@@TimmyTheToolman
I replaced the lower bushings of the upper strut cap with OEM ones. That seems to have fixed my clunk noise. Thought you would like to know. Thanks!
@@gritsandcornbread Good to hear you figured it out.
I wasn't concerned with the cost of coupler. I just wanted to use the old style cap as I thought of the two it was the more elegant solution and easier to use. If it won't work I'll be sure to let you know. Thanks.
Ok, sounds good.
So I was still not satisfied with the position of the steering guide so I adjusted it for a third time but, I did it differently this time. My goal was to have the end cap tight enough so the spring caused the steering guide to be in constant contact with the tube but, not tight enough to cause the steering to drag. So, I jacked up the front so I could move the tires from side to side and loosened the end cap. Then I tightened the end cap with a ratchet until I felt it stop (steering was impeded/would not move). Then I moved the tires from side to side varying how tight the end cap was (with the spring installed). I very quickly developed a feel for when the end cap was too tight or too loose. So (after applying the loctite), starting with the end cap at a point where it felt like the steering was dragging, I loosened the end cap a hair past where the steering just started moving freely (I didn't loosen it much). What surprised me was how little I had to loosen the end cap from where the steering would not turn at all (about 18 ft/lbs torque) to where it turned freely from side to side. In my case, I think the 19 degrees was way too much. I'm going to test drive it on the road this weekend to make sure it's not too tight but, otherwise I think I'm finally happy with the adjustment. I hope this helps someone and thanks for the video. I wouldn't have attempted this without it.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the adjustment. I'm sure it will help somebody out.
It's been several weeks now and I've not had any adverse issues and I'm very pleased with the feel of the steering after adjusting the steering guide as per the procedure above.
@@mrs1557 Good to hear.
The 5/8 nut was too small on my 01 prerunner. Needed a 3/4 but ground down to fit.
Good job!
Really appreciate the videos. They are fantastic!!! My mechanic says that I need the rack guide replaced. With the wheels on the ground, I don’t sense any play in the tie rod either front to back or up and down. How do I know that I need the guide replaced? And if so do I need to replace cap nut and locking ring? Will the updated guide and spring work with the original cap nut and locking ring? Many thanks for your help!!!
Well, are you experiencing any abnormal steering play? That would be the reason to investigate into potential causes of the excessive steering play and possibly suspect the rack guide as the culprit.
You know, I don't know for sure if the old cap and lock ring can work with the new spring or not. Since Jordan ordered them, I was thinking it was necessary to replace them.
Thanks again for this video! I did my upgrade today and everything turned out great. The only minor issue I ran into was that I couldn’t hand thread the guide cap as you did with the hex nut. After the project, steering felt stable but I did notice when I was coming out a turn, my steering doesn’t come back to a full center. Did you happen to have a similar issue?
Hey Eric, I think maybe you have the guide too tight. Back it off a tiny bit and see if your steering wheel self-centers.
Thank you, Mr. Timmy, I am trying to look for these parts. I already found them at a Toyota agency, but according to them, they are not compatible with my 4runner 2000 3.4 limited.
The steering rack guide in this video is an updated guide that was used on 2001 and 2002 models. This is why it's listed as not compatible with your rig. But, all these steering racks are the same. The newer guide will work for your 2000.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you, Mr. Timmy, I will try that one and I'll let you know if it works. God bless you. Thanks to your videos, it helps many people.
@robertogarcia35 You're welcome. If you're seeking a fix for play in your steering, it could be an issue documented in this video: th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Gv64g-yiYHjaoKa4
@@TimmyTheToolman There is some play in the steering wheel. I will try that and see if I can resolve it.
@@robertogarcia35 If the new steering guide doesn't fix the play, definitely look into the tac weld mod we show in that other video.
Timmy, thanks for the video, as always. I have a question. I have an '01 and it has the newer style guide already but I'm seeing someguys (jhelm) that say you can still do this adjustment if you have the newer guide. What's your opinion? Something worth messing with? I recently lifted mine and replaced literally every single front end/suspension part except for the rack itself and I'm still getting some wandering/bump steer feeling at highway speed. I had a second alignment done to get my caster further positive and that did help some but the bump steer feeling is still there and its aggravating as heck. I would imagine a new rack would be aweosme but mine doesn't leak or anything. I do also have a mysterious clunk when backing in the garage that I wonder if it could be this. I did the slip joint fix and man what a freaking difference. So its all tight, it just wants to walk back and forth as I go down an imperfect road.
Thanks man. Sorry for the dissertation.
Have you addressed anything with the rear? Worn out rear control arm bushings can cause bump steer. Also, the eimkeith panhard correction kit (PCK) might help too.
Hey the chap mx, did you ever figure out the issue? I’m in the same boat, minus the clunk.
What racks also work for the 99 4 runner? Do Tacoma’s work as well? Also what year? New to your channel cause I purchased a runner THANKS FOR BEING A TOYOTA LEGEND
For your 99 4runner, you could obviously use a rack from any year 3rd generation 4runner, 1996-2002. You could also use a steering rack from any year 1st Gen Tacoma 1995-2004. 1st Gen Tacomas are very similar to 3rd Gen 4runners.
I have a 1999 2wd base Tacoma model non pre runner with all new upper and lower and balljoints and inner and outer tierods and experiencing a slight steering wobble only at 55 or 60 mph or hitting a small hole in the ground everything else is tight. Was wondering if this could be the culprit?? Thanks for your videos and how to tips.
Maybe it could be the cause. I would check wheel balancing first. I would also check the condition of your control arm bushings,
Hi Tim. Once again, thank you for taking time to post all these Videos. I was always good with my hands but didn't really have the know how with cars.- More like an electronic repair guy-. Your videos help me to save lots!! of $$$ and most important maintain my beloved 4runner the way i want which is do the job the rite way. I am considering to change my 97 SR5 steering rack. I noticed a small leak on the drivers side when i moved the boot to replace my outer Tie Rod End. Is there any actual improvement on steering with this mod? I am thinking if i should just buy a rack for an 02 if i have to replace it.
Hey Terry, we're stoked to hear our videos are helping you work on your 4runner and you're saving lots of money. We love hearing this!
Yes, Jordan said the steering was improved but I don't think it was a mind-blowing improvement.
Are you experiencing sloppy steering? If it's only a small leak and your steering feels good, I'd just drive it as is. OEM steering racks are expensive. You can buy aftermarket but I don't think they last as long.
My steering is a bit sloppy since I did the tundra bilstain upgrade. But that could be from the lift and change of geometry. It feels heavy when maneuvering to park thought. Fluid is full. And did change fluid. I own this track 20 years 1st and original owner and I'd like to keep it in pristine condition. I have buy 2 more cars but the 3rd Gen 4R is a keeper. It looks like he just came out of the assembly line. aftermarket rack is a NoNo!!
Hey Terry, there's a chance your steering rack is starved for fluid. Drain the reservoir with a turkey baster or maybe a syringe with a plastic tube attached to it and then get a flashlight and look into the reservoir. If the screen on the bottom is gunked up with black crud, a cleaning might help out. You can remove the reservoir fairly easily. 3 bolts hold it onto the pump and you have to disconnect the return line. Clean it out really good with some brake clean or carb cleaner and then put it back together. There's a rubber o-ring that seals the reservoir onto the pump so you just have to make sure it's intact before putting it back together.
I didn't know there is a filter in there. I would order that O ring before i touch anything thought. is the PN# 44362A...?
I don't know the part number. Just tried to find it on the Camelback Toyota website and they only show the reservoir and not the o-ring. If you can't find it online, maybe just visit a local Toyota dealership because they'll probably be able to find the correct part number for you.
Awesome video as usual thank you! Great detail and explanation at every step. Going to replace my rack, rack guide, poly bushings, and outer tie rods on a 1998 Tacoma 4x4 V6. Should be all the same parts in your video right?
Any recommendations for grease-able outer tie rods? I went with moog before but they rusted quick and have heard they don't make'em like they used to.
They should all be the same parts with the exception of the tie rods. I'm pretty sure the Tacoma outer tie rods are different than the 4runner outer tie rods. I only like using OEM for critical steering components and no not recommend aftermarket. Also, having a greasable joint isn't really necessary. With Toyota OEM tie rods, the boot seals in the grease and it can't go anywhere. As long as the boot stays intact, the joint will have grease.
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok right on thanks a lot
@@TimmyTheToolman Just realized after talking to the online Toyota parts dealer who I ordered from, the rack (44250-35042) actually sounds like it comes with the updated rack guide because it has the cap/nut (45524-37010) already installed. That should indicate it has the updated guide right?
@@ssoulssurfer I would think Toyota would include the updated rack guide with a new rack so I think you're correct.
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok great thanks. Yea cuz in your other video replacing the rack, looks like the new rack has the revised guide.
I started this upgrade today because of a bad shake and tight steering in the front end and after replacing all the joints this is where I ended up. When I was greasing the cylinder p/s fluid started pouring out of the guide hole. I quickly centered the wheel which slowed it to a steady drip. Did I happen to do this as my rack failed or did I turn too far without the guide. Thanks
I'm not sure what your symptoms of fluid coming out means. What I can say is we didn't experience that. Zero ATF came out when we did this job. Maybe an internal seal is shot. I guess put it back together and hope for the best.
Did you do a follow-up video to this testing how the steering felt during a test drive?
This is a very interesting video as a lot of Hondas have this problem from what I've read. I've got a 2005 Honda Civic Type-R (I live in the UK) and I've had issues after fitting a refurbished EPS rack after my original rack (which I've still got) developed a knock. Could a rack guide that's out of adjustment cause a clatter/knock sound at lower speeds and/or when driving over rough road surfaces? I'm guessing if too loose/tight you would get some sort of clatter? If so I think my original rack may actually be fine with just a few parts needed to do the fix.
The reconditioned rack I've got fitted at the moment has very stiff steering that wanders on the motorway, doesn't feel safe at all and has next to no self-centre. All suspension components are fine, do you think the guide may just be far too tight and in need of adjusting? The parts and method look almost identical to your video.
Thanks.
Hey Martin, we put an update in the video description. Jordan's steering did improve after this job and his steering is still good since I talk to him on a regular basis.
I suppose a rack guide that's worn or too loose could cause a knock or clatter. If it's too tight, the steering would most likely feel stiff and not re-center properly. I guess it's worth a shot to replace the rack guide and see if your steering improves.
Wandering steering could also be caused by worn out steering rack bushings and by other worn out components on the front like the tie rods.
Thanks, I didn't see that. That's good to hear.
I'll adjust the guide and see how I get on. I will report back once I have it done. Thanks.
All front end components have been replaced sadly, so I hope all is fixed when the rack is fixed.
So this may be a silly question but within the first few steps you say to leave the steering wheel unlocked (as in just leave the steering wheel as is and make sure it’s not locked up?) and how crucial is it to have the vehicle jacked up with wheels a bit to the left? Looks like the wheels I turned nearly a full turn correct?
Honestly, we shot this video quite a while ago and don't remember all the details. If you just follow how we did it, you'll be successful doing the job. In short, I'm trying not to have to watch my own video to answer your quesfion.
I recently had lower ball joint failure on my 3rd 4Runner (driver's side, luckily I was only going 25mph and didn't cause a rollover or a much more serious accident).
The casting on the steering rack where the guide screws in broke off the rack during the accident, and somehow the guide remained inside the half-broken hole in the casting. What do you recommend I do? Complete rack replacement?
Yes, I would replace it if it were me. I would only go with OEM too. I've heard of lots of early failures with aftermarket racks.
I have installed new rack and pinion all Toyota parts. New tie rod ends, sway bar bushings. Upper and lower A arms , upper and lower ball joints both sides on my 2000 tundra . After install all to spec I’m noticing movement in the center bolt and long bolt bushing location. The new rack came with 2 bushings installed . And the center bushing has a factory rear washer on the center bushing. I’m getting a clunking noise when I come out of driveway witch has a little dip angel on it any ideas would be helpful
You are probably just seeing bushing movement. The bushing give a little with steering input. The clunk could be coming from the steering shaft. Check out our Steering Play Fix video.
What were the symptoms? I have a vibration at 20-25 & 60-65. Upper and lower ball joints are new, inner and outer tie rods are new. With the car in the air and one person moving the wheel, there was play left to right. Putting my hand on the boot I could feel the rack moving in there. Presuming that means rack time (it doesn't leak, but moves)
Steering just felt like it had extra play in it. From what you explained, it sound't like your rack guide needs adjusting or replacing if you have the old style rack guide. But, that vibration could be tires out of balance. It could be worn out control are bushings.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just had the wheels dynamically balanced as that was my thought as well. Control arm bushings look ok. With the car in the air and one person moving the wheel and my hand on the boot, I can feel it moving in the rack
@@andresadoff6762 Do the guide upgrade and you might also want to check for slop in the shaft. Check out this video too: th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html
I ran the part numbers on Toyota and got hits on all the parts. Are these parts the same fora 2nd Gen Tacoma? I ran my VIN on Toyota and input the part name and did not come up with the part.
It would be the same for a 1st Gen Tacoma but I'm fairly certain 2nd Gen Tacomas are different.
Question, I installed a reman rack unit on an 06 tundra. The steering is a bit stiffer. The wheel returns to center when turning. Could the "stiffness" be adjusted by readjusting the reman unit by this method?
When joining the steering rag joint halves, you ended up putting the steering shaft in a slight bind. Loosen the pinch bolt for the upper halve of the rag joint, and this will let the steering shaft de-tension. Then tighten the pinch bolt, and you should be good.
@TimmyTheToolman thanks brother I'll do that.
I'm wondering if it's necessary to replace the spring and other parts and instead just inspect the parts, clean and grease them and assemble to proper specs? Toyota parts are generally pretty durable.
You do make a valid point. It seems Jordan could have reused the cap, lock ring and maybe even the spring as well. Springs do develop a memory and wear out so I think the spring replacement is smart to replace. I don't know if there's something with the new guide that requires it to have the newer cap but it sure looks like the old cap would work just fine. When I talk to Jordan next, I'll ask him about it.
I got a reply from Jordan and he said he never thought to try the old cap with the new guide because he figured Toyota changed the cap design for a reason. The new guide design uses a different cap and Jordan never questioned it. Since the cap, lock ring and spring aren't expensive parts to replace, I'd suggest replacing them so you don't find compatibility issues and then have to run to the dealership and hope they have the parts in stock.
So what's the purpose of replacing those parts? I have a 95 Tacoma and the actual shaft has play up and down on the driver side, I just stumbled upon your video, I don't know whether to do what you guys did or replace the whole rack ..
The guide can be cause of play or knocking in your steering. The guide Jordan installed in his steering rack is an improved design. It's worth a try before dropping big money on a new steering rack.
Any suggestions for getting the original bolt off? Mine will not come off even with PB over night and an impact. Bought channels as suggested and no luck on the lock ring either…
I'm guessing you're talking about the lock ring. Try a little heat from a butane torch on the lock ring to expand it and hopefully loosen its bond.
Out of curiosity, is the torque sequence the same dor the older style steering guide?
That's a good question and I'm not sure. I'd have to look at an older manual to find out.
When the guide goes bad it makes your steering sloppy as if there’s a gap on it correct!??
Yes, it will make the steering sloppy. Worn out steering rack bushings could also make the steering sloppy. th-cam.com/video/YywcR0E9bM4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=a0KDNiPelFLR-i6T
@@TimmyTheToolman I replaced the rack bushing with poly bushings but the steering itself keeps getting worse and worse. To the point I turn the wheel and it takes like half a turn to catch and start turning
@@4runrJay That's a lot of play. There's also this possibility. th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=o-tKItfyTh3LcB86
Can you tell me what the symptoms were that led you to replacing the guide? I have about 3/4 of an inch of left-right play and am not sure where to start.
th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html
Here's another of Timmy the Toolman's videos. It shows a couple ways to check for steering shaft play in a 3rd Gen 4Runner. You might also have another person in the car while you feel the rag joint. The rag joint is the small u-joint that transitions the angle from the slanted steering column to vertical into the top of the steering rack. Hope this helps.
Will this work on a 2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited 2WD? The website says it will not work but the rack shown in your video seems to have the same nut style as mine and not the indented style of the new one. After replacing the guide, will I need to get an alignment done? Thanks ahead of time.
I don't know for sure if there any differences in the years and models for the steering racks. I would assume they are all the same though. To confirm, you could check with an online Toyota parts seller and put in different years and see if the part number for the steering rack changes.
You will not need an alignment after replacing the guide because you did nothing to change any of the alignment settings.
Mine is doing this exact thing. Def plan on doing this, but my question is: that vertical play thats allowed.. what kind of symptoms will you see in the steering wheel?
I heard the audible click and noted the vertical play. Just wondering if this could be one of our many shimmy issues
@@puremaledark8305 The steering wheel should be tight in the steering column but when you turn the wheel, there might be extra play from a worn out steering rack guide, worn out steering rack bushings or possibly worn out inner or outer tie rods. There can also be play in the shaft which can cause play. The shaft is two parts that can telescope together in the even of a front end collision. Play can develop between these two halves and play can also develop in the tilt wheel ball. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html
Timmy The Toolman yes sir, already taken care of all those issues, thanks to you video. I was just curious of what symptoms youd feel if the rack guide was the only issue. Id figure irregular tire wear and a slight shimmy?
@@puremaledark8305 I think the main symptom would be detectable excessive play in the steering like the front end wanders because of the slop and it takes excessive steering wheel input to get the vehicle to steer where you want it to. The alignment would not be affected from a bad steering rack guide. If you're wondering if there's excessive play, jack up the front end, maybe remove the tires, and disconnect the steering rack boot so you can expose the steering rack shaft. Grab ahold of it and push and pull on it. If there's slop there, you'll feel it. The old roller style rack guide was replaced with the new bushing style and it's an improvement. Before succumbing to replacing the whole steering rack, I would definitely advise people #1, replace the steering rack bushings and #2, replace the steering rack guide.
Thanks for this video! What type of grease did you use? I'm hoping this fixes a pop I get when turning fairly quick to the right.
The FSM manual suggests a Molybdenum Disulfide Lithium Base Grease. Jordan just used what he had on hand and he wasn't exactly sure it was lithium based or not. You can pick up a Moly lithium grease at most auto parts stores. Hope the repairs works for you.
Well, it didn't fix my pop but the guide replacement went well! Two separate shops can't find it either. Thanks again!
Hey Craig, have you looked at your lower control arm bushings? They can get sloppy and cause a clunking feeling in the front end. I'm guessing you've already checked the outer tie rods, inner tie rods and balljoints?
OEM ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, and now the rack guide all replaced within the last 2 months.. The more I think about it, the pop started not long after I had the work done. I haven't checked the torque on the cam adjusters which could be a problem since an alignment was done after the work. It only pops on right turns, but not always. I can always get it to pop in a right turn and halfway through the turn give it a little gas and turn a bit harder. I really appreciate you taking the time for this and all your videos!
Hey Craig, I've heard about people having lots of trouble with alignment shops and one of the reported problems was the tech not tightening the cam adjusters enough and they came loose. Definitely check them out.
Did all the parts need to be replaced or just the guide and the spring???
Are the cap and the giant nut the same????
Global Mobile 01 I need to know this also I ordered the guide and spring only
If I already have the new style on my 4R, is it possible that it has come loose causing the sloppy steering? Would bringing the torque back to spec be a possible solution or do these not really move over time?
WasHereAlone It's always a possibilty it came loose and it would be easy to check. Recheck the guide adjustment, check all the mounting hardware and make sure that's all tight. You can also get under the vehicle while someone turns the wheel back and forth and you're looking at what's going on. You might spot the reason for the play in your steering. Have you replaced the steering rack bushings?
I did this upgrade but my steering is not returning to center. Ive loosened the guide alot but still no change. Any ideas whats going on?
I'd back off the cap and try the tightening and adjusting procedure again. Your steering wheel should definitely return to center. It sounds like it's too tight and binding the steering rack shaft.
Where can I order a new style guide ?
Order it from an online seller like Camelback Toyota. We show the part number in the beginning of the video.
I just bought a 2012 Tacoma that has hard steering. Could it be this guide is worn out?
Hard steering could be caused by the guide if somebody worked on the vehicle and overtightened the adjustment nut. If the steering rack was never touched, it wouldn't magically tighten up. If anything, a worn out guide would cause looser steering. Is the fluid level good? Is the power steering pump whining at all? It could be that you steering rack is starved of fluid because the fine mesh screen on the bottom of the reservoir is clogged up. We have a video for doing a power steering flush and reservoir screen cleaning on a 3rd Gen 4runner that would give you an idea on how to accomplish it on your Tacoma. th-cam.com/video/5k61KXRK8bM/w-d-xo.html
Hi, Have you done anything on Toyota Prado (colorado) 2002 Steering rack rubber seal replacement?.
Sorry, we haven't done any work on a Prado model before nor have we tried servicing a steering rack.
What’s the hex size of that ? My cap looks like a 12 point not 6 point like your new one
We list it in the video description. It's a 5/8" coupler nut.
@@TimmyTheToolman ah yes I need a 1-1/16” one for my tundra (27mm) that’s going to be hard to find
Before HOW, WHY? What was the symptom? What was the troubleshooting steps to pinpoint this is the cause? Not the tie rods, bushings, etc? 19 degree, ha, not 20, not 22.5. This is crazy.
The symptom would be play in your steering and you've ruled out other known possible causes for steering play. For an inspection, you could release the clamps for the boots on the steering rack and grab ahold of the shaft pushing and pulling on it trying to detect play. There shouldn't be any play. Also, the new steering rack guide is an improvement over the old design. The 19 degree instructions came right out of the Toyota factory service manual.
I think I have watched all of your videos. I have a 3rd gen ltd but the previous owner was a dumbass and never changed the oil. So I have to swap the engine with one out of a Tacoma.
Bummer. It's criminal what some idiots will do to their vehicles. Good luck with the engine swap.
My steering on toyota corolla was clunking when goes over rough and bumpy roads and noises came from under neath I gave it to my mechanic he said that steering rack bushes will be changed and may be he did something else . I cant afford a whole rack assembly replacement . After bushes replaced steering is good noises hav gone but steering didnt come back after u turn why ?
It sounds like he replaced the steering rack guide and has the nut too tight and that's why the wheel isn't returning to center.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks
I have an 02 so I have the new style guide. Could it go bad as well? thanks
I suppose it could wear out just like anything could wear out. What kind of symptoms are you experiencing?
@@TimmyTheToolman I have a 02 as well, my steering feels loose at highway speed and vibration. Thinking of having mine tightend or replaced . are these syptoms of the rack guide? I have replaced everything suspension wise besides the rack with oem parts and still getting vibration and tire feathering
@@DjMarkMetcalfe Have you replaced the steering rack bushings? th-cam.com/video/YywcR0E9bM4/w-d-xo.html Have you looked into possible play in the shaft that can be fixed with a couple tack welds? There's also a little fix you can do to the tilt ball. th-cam.com/video/xsOptgpfshg/w-d-xo.html Have you had a shop check your wheel balancing?
I have a question not sure if anyone can help. I have 96 4runner limited and I'm installing the MCM Long travel kit I got from SRQ Fabrication. With ADS 8 Coilovers. I want to upgrade the steering rack to a land cruisers if possible. I know they make a kit for the 2 and 3rd gen Tacoma. If not guess I'll have to find a fab shop make one for me if even possible. I figured I e spent near 5 grand on long travel for front end why not try to beef everything else up to withstand the wear and tear. Anyway so so long. Just want to do as much research and advice as possible before I install
We don't know if that would work Joshua. We've never tried what you're asking about.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you I appreciate the response. I figured it was worth a shot to ask. Anyway thank you again
@@joshuabell8638 No problem Joshua.
so what were the final adjustments if any? i have some play in mine and have to do this, rather than buy a new rack.
oldz70 There were no final adjustments. Jordan reported his steering felt good he didn't readjust the setting.
great. i'll be doing this soon. the truck is pushing 300k and the rack has play on the left side causing shimmy and premature wear on new tires.
Let me know how the repair went and whether or not it fixed the play and shimmy.
Quick question Timmy: is it absolutely necessary to change the big nut that the lock ring goes over? Or is it ok to re use the same one that comes out of my 97?
That's a good question and I don't have the answer. The newer guide design comes with the different plug, but I don't know if the old plug is compatible with the new guide. I bet if you simply took some measurements with a digital caliper, you'd get your answer.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok I’ll give that a try
@@4runrJay OK, let me know what you discover.
I think I need a new rack... I think I'm going to try this first though
What's your symptoms?
@@TimmyTheToolman well, loose steering is one. I checked the play when I did the ball joints and it didn't have much though, but I am having a power steering fluid leak from the big cap. When I did the ball joints and sway bar links, the steering tightened up a lot!. When I bought it, I could tell they used the wrong fluid in the power steering system and I plan on changing the rack guide and then flushing/filling the power steering system
@@TimmyTheToolman also, if you take requests, could you show an oil pan gasket replacement on a gen 3 4Runner...?
@@zenjon7892 We have a video that basically shows most of what you need to know and that's our Front Differential Replacement video. Most of the work to reseal the oil pan is getting the front differential out of your way. Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/w_gPiDvh9v4/w-d-xo.html
Be sure to read the video description and the comment we pinned. In the pinned comment, we discuss a much easier way to get the differential out and back in. Once the differential is out of the way, it's just a simple process of removing the oil pan bolts, separating the pan from the engine block, cleaning up both surfaces and resealing it with some Toyota Black FIPG. To learn how to separate the oil pan, you can use the same technique and tool we employed in our Transmission Filter Replacement video: th-cam.com/video/tuGazNhuEtM/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman right on! Do you think I need a new rack? Or just replace the guide and inner/outter tie rod ends?
I have a 2000 tacoma(3rzprerunner) and i have to replace the steering rack ..i could order the rack and pinion for an 02 right? that way it has the better design guide...thank you!! Subscribed!!
Hey Daniel, that would make sense but I'm guessing any OEM steering rack for the 1st Gen Tacoma years coming from Toyota now has the upgraded guide design. I just checked and the 2000 and 2002 list the same part number on the Camelback Toyota website so it doesn't matter. So, you'll get the upgraded guide regardless of the year you order because they both have the same part number.
Link to the 2000 Part: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/2000/Toyota/Tacoma/index.cfm?action=partDetail§ion=STEERING&group=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&subgroup=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&component=Gear%20assy&partnumber=4425035042&vehicleid=69987&siteid=214329
Link to the 2002 Part: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/2002/Toyota/Tacoma/index.cfm?action=partDetail§ion=STEERING&group=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&subgroup=STEERING%20GEAR%20%26%20LINKAGE&component=Gear%20assy&partnumber=4425035042&vehicleid=70003&siteid=214329
Hey Tim! does the New OEM steering rack that you bought and used for your rack replacement video already come with this upgraded guide?
Hey Jesse, Yes, a new OEM steering rack will come with the upgraded guide and also new inner tie rods.
Awesome! thanks so much for these videos! I just purchased a 2000 and have already used 5 or 6 of your videos!
@@jessevielleux7889 You're very welcome Jesse. Great to hear you've been putting some of our videos to good use. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
So i have a 96 4wd, i tried to purchase the part on camelback website but it says the "part does not fit on my vehicle". Does it only say that because it's not the original intention for that part cause i have a 96?
The regular guy give them a call. This roller bushing changed from a roller bearing to the one we show you..And when you call, tell them Timmy the toolman sent ya! But be prepared for them to tell you it won’t work. And this is why you should watch this video!
@@TimmyTheToolman okay thank you Tim. I actually wasn't expecting for a reply since this is an old video, kinda. So much respect, your a legend :) I always enjoyed watching your tutorials btw keep them up
The regular guy that’s awesome. Thanks for the comment
Do you have to replace the cap or will the old one work with the new guide?
That's a good question and I don't know the answer. I'll ask my friend Jordan since it was his rig and he bought the parts for the job. I'll get back to you with his answer.
Jordan said the new guide design requires a different cap, so you'll have to replace it as well.
I get conflicting part numbers for my '98 4Runner V6 4WD.
I've seen the 45504-35031 end sub assy on other write ups as well but according to ToyotaPartsDeal.com that part is not correct and they specify the 45504-35010.
Same with the rack cap guide: 45524-35010 on the website vs 45524-37010 on your video.
Thoughts?
Don't know what to tell you John. Those are the part numbers Jordan had for the project and it worked fine for his rig. The cap and guide Jordan bought are the upgraded design and not the same that came on the rig originally. Maybe that's where the discrepancy lies.
Part number 35031 is for 2000-2002 4Runners and 35010 is for 1995 to 1999 4Runners.
6:05 could the looseness have been the culprit?
That tightening procedure for that cap doesn't leave it really tight. Is it worth a shot to go through the tightening procedure for that cap before replacing the guide? Maybe it is. Jordan knew he wanted to update the guide to the newer version so we were going to do the job regardless.
Why not just re torque the original guide?
You could try that but the main point to this video is replacing the old guide with the newer improved design.
@@TimmyTheToolman Got it,thanks for making all these great videos.
@@iddddaduncan You're very welcome.
Great videos Timmy. I think you should get a better microphone to better the audio in your videos. Nonetheless thumbs up. 👍🏼
Our original videos with no external mic were much worse. The audio now is way better. We are thinking of getting a different mic but I don't know if it will improve. The new GoPro we are using requires a special adapter that you can plug in an external mic into. We can't use anything large because then we'd have trouble manipulating the camera into tight spots. Hopefully the new compact mic we get will be better. Thanks for the comment and suggestion.
I wish mine was as easy as yours to get too. I have to take my whole steering rack off or sacrifice the skin on my knuckles
I guess your not working on a 3rd Gen 4runner. Good luck with the job.
Timmy The Toolman no it’s a Alfa Romeo 156. But got the job done
@@alfaman4113 Gotcha. Good job getting it done.
Very regal music at the start
Thanks for the compliment
@@TimmyTheToolman Looks like a very easy job too! I was quoted 1 grand for it. No fudgin' way. Not with the help of Timmy.
Gets your hands dirty and save some dough! We give you everything you need to be successful!