When I mounted my radiator for my 2jzs13 I grabbed a universal 70s Chevy cx racing 3 row radiator. So slightly smaller than a sr rad and the hose going to engine has the rad cap. So u can hide it under the stock piece without cutting it. Just put 1 big ass single mishomoto fan with shroud on it today and it pulls hard.
I put the same engine in my 1989 Supra and your installation looks cleaner then mine, you did a good job. I used the stock W58 transmission, but the car is lightening fast compared to the old 7MGE engine, hope you still have the car.
SupremeCheeto same rn parting out all the goodies on my rsx and selling it and buying a shell and hoping to just drop all the cash in it probably will save a few I priced it up it'll come up to around 10k
Been really wrestling with what engine I want to put in my 91 240sx, truly is between an Rb20, 25,or the 1jz just not quite sure on the budget on the jz could you clarify a bit on the amount it took to get going?
the 1jzvvti with r154 gearbox like i used here is gonna cost you about 3500 shipped or 3k to 3.2k picked up locally. The wiring can be done cheap, its easy. budget 500-1k for it price varies on reworking the jzx100 harness vs a completely new harness mounts and brackets, 500.00 too many variables to quote you on cooling. lots of money can be saved or you could go all out like i did. I have a sponsorship with mishimoto that helped immensely. As for which engine you should go with. i'd absolutely without a sliver of a doubt recommend the 1jz over either of the RB engines. parts are plentiful and easy to source. most 2jz-gte stuff is compatible so autozone and napa, etc will carry maintenance parts to keep your engine going. If i had to guess quickly, i'd estimate i have around 6-7k into my swap as it sits right here. 100% worth every penny.
Appreciate the honesty and the time, only reason I considered the RB series was for the fact of the affordability I wanted to go 20 or 25 and Forge the internals out just so I could have a reliable 400hp plus without having to worrying about rings burning out on me or oil starvation issues. I knew right off the back the 1jz is quite sound internally it's just quite a bit for the motor n R154 transmission, as to where the 20 and 25 are cheaper it but I figured I'd be spending more in the long run trying to get those numbers with a built motor. I just been dicking around for so many years I finally crunched down and got 5 grand saved up so I been weighing my options.
If you just wanted 400hp, you can do that on the 1jz without having to change the internals so you can stick with that. The R154 should be able to handle that without problem but honestly I think if anyone can afford it they should look into getting the kit from www.abc-clutch.com/products/1-2JZ-BMW-gearbox-adapter-KIT it costs around 2500USD including shipping to the US. I don't work for them but bmw zf gearboxes are plentiful, cheap and good for holding a lot of power. If you're not going to keep the car for a while then it probably doesnt make sense getting and you could just stick with an R154 but if you're going to keep the car a while and will probably be upping the power then I DEFINITELY recommend it. Plus the guys over there are really helpful and would try to help you out with any problems you may have in your build. Don't do the RB's you mentioned, I love nissan but the 1jz is a better option, plus you get to circumvent the oil starvation issues that RB's have. Like you I actually wanted to have an rb25 s14 but after reading up a ton, a 1jz just makes the most sense, more reliable, can handle more power stock and is just a great engine to run.
+bmwm3man thanks for the added thought but I think I will end up going with a newer 370z 6 speed transmission they have proven to be quite strong and hold up to high hp and torque along with a Collins adapter plate, its about the most cost effective way to go seeing as you can find the transmissions for around $1200 without all the wear and tear of a R154 or any older transmissions. Adapter plate is running around $400.
I just picked up a new S14 project everyone so if you're not a subscriber, hit that subscribe button and turn on notifications, cuz im goin in on this new project! new videos will be released bi-weekly of the progress.
I know this video is old but would you happen to know what the compression numbers are supposed to be? I just picked one up with 150psi all across, at cold since the engine is not installed yet.
Street Lethal Garage yea I noticed the manual did state that but so many mixed reviews also say with a cold compression test it will mark lower. Anything I should look for what would cause low compression? Thanks by the way, You earned my sub.
if it was a motor you were looking to buy from a JDM dealer or something, then the sump was likely empty because they empty all of them before they ship them over. if i was you, i'd keep searching until you find a motor with at least 170+ across all 6, but thats just me, bud.
Chay the fans are on a temp based sensor it’s called a fan controller You can get them at the auto parts store and you just wire them in. And yes, when doing the wiring harness, I had the Toyota’s water temp sensor send the ecu’s water temp reading to the Nissan cluster
@@Frankenslide thanks for the response! I watched your video about 8 times before finally getting my dream setup in my 4th s13. Your video helped so much with my 1jz build
its kind've pointless tbh. i dont remember its exact purpose but if i recall correctly its for emissions. if you remove that thing you'll get compressor surge but it makes cool choo choo noises lol
Lol. So you think its just better to keep it and have it unplugged im guessing? Cause ive had some buddies say to remove the solenoid or whatever but compressor surge to me is usually a no go haha.
i love this build, its my motivation to build a nissan now. build alot of clean hondas in the past. hopefully you can answer any questions i have along the way. trying to find a s13 coupe but currently i can only find a s13 hatch automatic.
your first mistake is not buying a car simply because it has an automatic. just buy the damn car and do the manual swap. lol.. the 1jz is gonna be manual anyways.
the owner wants quite abit for the car thats why i havent purchased it yet, i live in canada so a s13's arte hard to come by especially with good frame rails.
My sr20 decided piston 4 doesn't want to move anymore (probably broken rod) I'm thinking of doing your motor, what was the total cost? Any places that sell good 1jz motors, or did you build yours? Also can the heater be used/ setup? I also love the "Notice me" sticker above the muffler! :)
@@Grainsauce yes, thats the one, dont go by their websites inventory, you gotta call him. the dude is awesome to work with. He just doesnt update his site very often. every time ive ever called him he's had them in stock.
hows that 1jz vvti works vs the 1jz non vvti im looking to do a swap 1975 celica dont know if i should go vvti or non vvti im deff not going 2jz over populated in the toyota celica rwd industry and super pricey.
There's a load more torque from lower down in the vvti engine due to the differences in the design of the heads. Because of this the turbo spools far quicker and from what I have heard it's generally a more responsive engine
i mention in the video that mark panic did my wiring harness, as for the throttle body, you dont need to do anything with it, if you buy an engine that doesnt have Drive By Wire. The easiest way to tell, is on top of the throttle body, it will say ETSC-i. if it just says ETSC without the "i" then its good to go. another way to tell, is the non drive by wire ECU has 4 plugs and the DBW engine has 5 plugs on the ECU. Hope this helps.
nice build! just wanted to let you know that the sticker isn't T E Q its actually Toyota in Japanese katakana. Its a bit stylized so it appears different but looks like this normally: トヨタ
+lapped on paper, yes, it would effect the performance of the car in a track scenario where GRIP racing is involved. It would likely cause under steer in hard cornering an stuff like that. Drifting is another story, its still very controllable while drifting. This is my street car and i occasionally will be drifting it so i didnt worry too much about weight distribution. In short, yes, it will effect the balance of the car, but if you can look past that and wont be grip racing it, then you got nothing to worry about, really.
On the older R154's from the MK3 supra and older x-chassis from japan, the shifter is not as long. but on the JZX100 and JZX110 engines the shifter is extended already. its known as a "remote shift" r154. or "tripod" r154. it's longer than the older ones.
There is a gentleman named Mark Panic who lives out in the Pacific Northwest who does wiring harnesses. he's been doing my swap harnessed for 6 years and he's the man. www.panicwire.com for inquiries. or just email him at panicwire@gmail.com
also, the intercooler kit is just a mishimoto intercooler core and i purchased the 3" CX Racing "Universal Piping Kit" so it comes with a variety of different sections and bends and the fabrication work was done by LHT Performance in Pinellas Park, FL. i def dont recommend getting the black piping kit because in order to weld it up, you have to remove the paint. That's why you see the sections are black and some are regular silver where the welds are at. Soo yea, CX Racing Universal 3" Intercooler Piping Kit.
also, i recommend doing a 2.5" kit instead of the 3" kit if you're running stock turbo. I think having the 3" kit caused it to have a small bit of turbo lag on stock boost, but if you're going with an aftermarket turbo setup, then def go with the 3" kit.
only the JZX110 engines came with electronic throttle. the simnple solution is to not buy that engine. you want a jzx100 engine. if the throttle body says "ETCS-i" stay away. ETCS is what you want. no "i" if its too late for that, get a non electronic TB from somewhere and then have your wiring guy fix your harness up properly\
ive gotten that downpipe glowing hot quite a few times and they werent starting to break down or anything however, as ou can guess, anything exposed to extreme heat like that, over a long period of time, will def break down. I would recommend coming up with a better solution for sure. maybe some kind of heatshield or some heat wrap like for exhaust manifolds or something of the sort.
vvti has literally NOTHING to do with the sway bar clearance. the vvti and non vvti have the exact same oil pans. whoever told you that is very confused. 1jz and 2jz have the same size oil pans across the board and the stock s-chassis sway bar will block the JZ oil pan from resting where it needs to.
only the JZX110 engines comes with the drive by wire. if you dont want to do that, just make sure you buy a JZX100 engine. its very simple to source an engine that doesnt say etcs-i on the TB
Frankenslide thanks for replying. just curious cause for my vvti 2jz the etsc i tb doesn't open all the way. I did just find out that driftmotion is selling a dbw delete kit for cheap so I might end up doing that. Thanks bro.
Hey, im not sure if you covered this in your video but did you beat in the transmission tunnel a little bit to get the r154 to fit properly without rubbing?
couldnt tell ya. just hit it will a mallet a bit to be safe man. it very well could. i just took extra precautions cuz i didnt feel like taking my engine out again. it also creats easier access to the starter incase you need to change it
i hammered at the tunnel with a 3 pound sledge for all of 5 minutes and barely put any effort in to it at all.. tbh you can probably fit it without any massaging.
180SX LSD and the driveshaft is an unknown. i bought it off a friend who had a 1jz s13. you can find many places like drive shaft shop or driftmotion to make you a driveshaft.
There are multiple reasons that i choose 1jz's over 2jz.. ill name a few and tell you why but ill try and keep it as brief as possible. 1: 1jz vvti is factory single turbo from the factory. This is a huge plus, the twins suck and the single turbo is great. 2: Platform. The 1jz is a better engine for an S13. It's a small car and on paper the 2jz and 1jz make nearly the same horsepower on paper. 3: The 1jz vvti is available with a 5 speed manual that fits into s13's perfectly. 4: The 1jz is a more rev happy engine. It revs smoother and faster and takes high RPM's better than a 2jz 5: The sound. I personally think the 1jz sounds better. 6: This is my second 1jz vvti (first one was in an 89 cressida, see my older videos) and i just love these engines. I swear by them in fact. They're fantastic. 7: Powerband. The vvti and single turbo work flawlessly with eachother. The horsepower and torque stick very closely together all the way through the rev range. There is a dyno video in my older videos where you can see this for yourself as well. Thats really all i can think of off the top of my head.
Thank you, I really appreciate your reply. I recently purchased a 240sx hatch and considered getting a 2jz because i hear they can make 400whp easy with stock internals and they make more torque stock for stock versus the 1jz.
the lightweight chassis of the s13/14 make it so the lower tq of the 1jz isnt even felt. the car moves very well. the stock 1jz vvti turbo is 400whp capable but not for long, but you have two fast and easy options to get there reliably for the turbo. you can send your stock turbo to driftmotion and they rebuild it with a billet compressor wheel and thats awesome. pretty affordable. OR tomei makes a bolt on turbo that is easily 550whp capable
I would like to swap a 1JZ into a E36, and all i would have to do is just swap the engine and that's it. Is it that easy? If i buy an 1JZ online it comes all complete? So later i won't have to add any more parts on it?
Wiring, cooling, swap mounts, drive shaft, and front mount intercooler should be all else you need other than the engine, trans, and ecu. Also some gauges of course.
@@ThePookybear56 and if i use the ECU from the 1JZ, will the engine start properly? All functions will work such as lights, front glass washer, etc... Or can i still use the ECU from the E36? Sry idk the right words for all car parts in english :/ Do u think i rly need some gauges? I want this for daily, so i would lile the interior to be original and simple without mods. Just the engine. Or u sugest i rly need them gauges?
IonePawPawing look at wiring specialties... Ive not done the swap I'm just doing research currently. Those functions should end up working if done right, they may not be plug and play but I believe that the e36 ECU can still be used to control those functions of they're not hard wired or able to be controlled by the jzx100 ecu
Im thinking about getting a 240, and I wanna put a 1jz in it.. but I wanna average around 500hp, but use it as my daily.. around how much would it be? Or would it even be a good idea
it's totally doable but tbh, if its going to be your daily driver, just put the motor in and do some bolt ons. you'll be plenty happy with how these cars perform with a stock 1jz in them. its a very light car, it will be fast, no doubt. 500hp in a daily driven S13 is kind've pointless. I mean, sure, its awesome, but you dont NEED all that. Just do a nice down pipe, a nice front mount setup and a solid 3" exhaust and the car will easily make 300-320whp. These cars FLY with that kind of power and the inline 6 torque is just fine. Expect to spend around 6-8.5k on your swap.. depending on how much you do yourself and how much of the work you pay to have done. My s13 in this video made 320whp and i didnt have anything crazy done, just what i mention here in the video and the car was an absolute blast to drive. it had traction issues as is.. adding 200 more whp, it wont hook up so you'll just spin tires all the time, unless you wide body it and put some proper tires on it, with an LSD and no crazy negative camber or anything. If you plan to have a flashy stance style car, then the bolt on route like i suggested is DEF the way you want to go. It's all preference, bud.. like i said, just do the bolt ons and if you find yourself wanting more, then add it later. make getting the car up and running and to a daily driveable state your top priority - THEN start thinking about more power.
Hay man sick vid got the the same s13 as u with a dead single cam and wanted to do a 1j swap can you link me every thing u got to mounts and anything els u needed to use other then the 1j and trans unless u un BC
Clean rust free 240sx here about $2000 and up and not include engine and transmission. The road salt kill 240sx. Check out my 240sx but I think it on other account.
best of luck to ya dude. if you have any questions just hmu. i dont mind helping people at all! i prefer the 1jz for street duty.. it's just my opinion but i think its only worth going 2jz if you have big power goals in mind... to me, 400-500 whp on a 1jz is way more fun on the street and they come with manual transmissions lol
Nice. I was thinking of doing this swap, but I live where emissions are a thing. I was thinking since it has similar displacement to KA maybe I could pass. They only do the tailpipe sniffer test at idle and 1500 rpm, check for cat, and check for check engine light..
Love the 2 tone man
I'm drooling all over my desktop right now, that engine bay looks clean as hell and the 1J sounds wicked! Dreaming of a 1J in my S13 hatch!
love it, super clean. looks like it was ment to be in there, fits too good
soooo clean. I love your build bro, don't stop making videos
+Rob thanks dude!
When I mounted my radiator for my 2jzs13 I grabbed a universal 70s Chevy cx racing 3 row radiator. So slightly smaller than a sr rad and the hose going to engine has the rad cap. So u can hide it under the stock piece without cutting it. Just put 1 big ass single mishomoto fan with shroud on it today and it pulls hard.
I put the same engine in my 1989 Supra and your installation looks cleaner then mine, you did a good job. I used the stock W58 transmission, but the car is lightening fast compared to the old 7MGE engine, hope you still have the car.
wish i still had it.. :(
Do you have a parts list?
Love it, currently building a Supra MK3 with 1JZ so got some good tips from you man. Congratulations on such a fine build.
Such a clean swap!
Nice build man! love it. Currently on my 2nd 1jz vvti in my mx73. almost done with her.
Awesome just grabbed majority of the stuff to do my swap can’t wait
you have the same enthusiasm i do with my silvia! I love it :D
Of course we gonna ask all about it 😝
Great vid 👍🏼
I'm building my credit to get a personal loan to build a 1jz 240 or buy one already swapped, , this is goals 😍
SupremeCheeto same rn parting out all the goodies on my rsx and selling it and buying a shell and hoping to just drop all the cash in it probably will save a few I priced it up it'll come up to around 10k
I love the toyota looking colorway to match the engine
Nice clean setup! Two tone is a good touch 👍👍 I need that in black
This is so clean..!
Love this setup.!
Did you need a different differential? Would the swap be any more difficult for a the silvia s13?
What’s the average cost to complete the swap??? Just basic bolt ons to make it a daily driver???????
beautiful swap man love it!
Sick swap man love the car and dropped a sub great vids
thanks brother! new vid will be up this week!
Street Lethal Garage 👌👌
if you dont mind.. how do you get mishimoto to sponsor you? is it the video promotion you give them or something else?
contact them and inquire about a sponsorship they will tell you everything.
How much did it total out too for the price?
Been really wrestling with what engine I want to put in my 91 240sx, truly is between an Rb20, 25,or the 1jz just not quite sure on the budget on the jz could you clarify a bit on the amount it took to get going?
the 1jzvvti with r154 gearbox like i used here is gonna cost you about 3500 shipped or 3k to 3.2k picked up locally.
The wiring can be done cheap, its easy. budget 500-1k for it price varies on reworking the jzx100 harness vs a completely new harness
mounts and brackets, 500.00
too many variables to quote you on cooling. lots of money can be saved or you could go all out like i did. I have a sponsorship with mishimoto that helped immensely.
As for which engine you should go with. i'd absolutely without a sliver of a doubt recommend the 1jz over either of the RB engines. parts are plentiful and easy to source. most 2jz-gte stuff is compatible so autozone and napa, etc will carry maintenance parts to keep your engine going.
If i had to guess quickly, i'd estimate i have around 6-7k into my swap as it sits right here. 100% worth every penny.
Appreciate the honesty and the time, only reason I considered the RB series was for the fact of the affordability I wanted to go 20 or 25 and Forge the internals out just so I could have a reliable 400hp plus without having to worrying about rings burning out on me or oil starvation issues. I knew right off the back the 1jz is quite sound internally it's just quite a bit for the motor n R154 transmission, as to where the 20 and 25 are cheaper it but I figured I'd be spending more in the long run trying to get those numbers with a built motor. I just been dicking around for so many years I finally crunched down and got 5 grand saved up so I been weighing my options.
If you just wanted 400hp, you can do that on the 1jz without having to change the internals so you can stick with that. The R154 should be able to handle that without problem but honestly I think if anyone can afford it they should look into getting the kit from www.abc-clutch.com/products/1-2JZ-BMW-gearbox-adapter-KIT it costs around 2500USD including shipping to the US. I don't work for them but bmw zf gearboxes are plentiful, cheap and good for holding a lot of power. If you're not going to keep the car for a while then it probably doesnt make sense getting and you could just stick with an R154 but if you're going to keep the car a while and will probably be upping the power then I DEFINITELY recommend it. Plus the guys over there are really helpful and would try to help you out with any problems you may have in your build. Don't do the RB's you mentioned, I love nissan but the 1jz is a better option, plus you get to circumvent the oil starvation issues that RB's have. Like you I actually wanted to have an rb25 s14 but after reading up a ton, a 1jz just makes the most sense, more reliable, can handle more power stock and is just a great engine to run.
+bmwm3man thanks for the added thought but I think I will end up going with a newer 370z 6 speed transmission they have proven to be quite strong and hold up to high hp and torque along with a Collins adapter plate, its about the most cost effective way to go seeing as you can find the transmissions for around $1200 without all the wear and tear of a R154 or any older transmissions. Adapter plate is running around $400.
+Raymon Alexander now you've taught me something there. Thanks a lot
I just picked up a new S14 project everyone so if you're not a subscriber, hit that subscribe button and turn on notifications, cuz im goin in on this new project! new videos will be released bi-weekly of the progress.
Clean build my dude!
3:41 what was that noise?
+Frankenslide where do you keep ordering your engines from? I loved the cressida too, this is Ballin as well!
+Supranforever I order ALL of my engines from JDMSource
+Frankenslide simple question for you man , I read that with xcessive mount we need to play with the tunnel , is this true ? Or its fit nice
Did you have to notch the lower core support too.? I cut a lot of my top side out but still can’t fit the fan shroud
very nice.... what ecu tuning are you using? not sure if it was discussed in the vid I had a hard time hearing from the fan kicking in and out
FF MAYHEM some use stock if you go 2j a shit load of people use the stock one and still boost
stock ecu is good for 13 psi.. add an HKS fuel cut defencer and you can go higher.
I got a 240sx a few months ago and around August I’m going to save up for a 1j swap. When are you gonna post more vids?
That's beautiful man.
what website/site were you talking about @2:19-2:27?
+Frankenslide cheers bro
Beautiful car.
how did you trick the ecu to thinking the car is in neutral?
nice 2 tone and aawesome 1jz build!
I know this video is old but would you happen to know what the compression numbers are supposed to be? I just picked one up with 150psi all across, at cold since the engine is not installed yet.
thats a little bit low but def still healthy as far as the toyota service manual would suggest. mine was between 178 and 183 across all 6.
Street Lethal Garage yea I noticed the manual did state that but so many mixed reviews also say with a cold compression test it will mark lower. Anything I should look for what would cause low compression? Thanks by the way, You earned my sub.
are you doing a wet or dry compression test? is there oil in the sump?
Street Lethal Garage it was a dry compression and I'm not to sure about the oil in the sump. It was at a shop and didnt ask about that.
if it was a motor you were looking to buy from a JDM dealer or something, then the sump was likely empty because they empty all of them before they ship them over. if i was you, i'd keep searching until you find a motor with at least 170+ across all 6, but thats just me, bud.
How did you wire your fans to kick on automatically? And are you using the Toyota temp sensor for your cluster reading?
Chay the fans are on a temp based sensor it’s called a fan controller
You can get them at the auto parts store and you just wire them in. And yes, when doing the wiring harness, I had the Toyota’s water temp sensor send the ecu’s water temp reading to the Nissan cluster
@@Frankenslide thanks for the response! I watched your video about 8 times before finally getting my dream setup in my 4th s13. Your video helped so much with my 1jz build
Chay thanks man, glad I could help!
@streetlethalgarage are you running any spacers with these wheels?
hey man nice video! Did you know what that blue sensor on your compressor piping is? Next to the recirculation/BOV?
its kind've pointless tbh. i dont remember its exact purpose but if i recall correctly its for emissions. if you remove that thing you'll get compressor surge but it makes cool choo choo noises lol
Lol. So you think its just better to keep it and have it unplugged im guessing? Cause ive had some buddies say to remove the solenoid or whatever but compressor surge to me is usually a no go haha.
i wouldnt recommend compressor surge to anyone who intends to daily their car. or at all for that matter. its no good no matter how ya slice it tbh.
what sort of windscreen wiper blades are you running on that
who knows tbh.
Fuck yeah
How much did the swap cost not counting labor.
i love this build, its my motivation to build a nissan now. build alot of clean hondas in the past. hopefully you can answer any questions i have along the way. trying to find a s13 coupe but currently i can only find a s13 hatch automatic.
your first mistake is not buying a car simply because it has an automatic. just buy the damn car and do the manual swap. lol.. the 1jz is gonna be manual anyways.
the owner wants quite abit for the car thats why i havent purchased it yet, i live in canada so a s13's arte hard to come by especially with good frame rails.
have you drift this car yet?
My sr20 decided piston 4 doesn't want to move anymore (probably broken rod) I'm thinking of doing your motor, what was the total cost? Any places that sell good 1jz motors, or did you build yours? Also can the heater be used/ setup? I also love the "Notice me" sticker above the muffler! :)
I get my engines from JDM Source. Tell him Sean Chiccino sent ya.
@@Frankenslide Is that the one in Alberta Canada? It looks like they don't have any turbo vvti motors right now.
@@Grainsauce yes, thats the one, dont go by their websites inventory, you gotta call him. the dude is awesome to work with. He just doesnt update his site very often. every time ive ever called him he's had them in stock.
hows that 1jz vvti works vs the 1jz non vvti im looking to do a swap 1975 celica dont know if i should go vvti or non vvti im deff not going 2jz over populated in the toyota celica rwd industry and super pricey.
There's a load more torque from lower down in the vvti engine due to the differences in the design of the heads. Because of this the turbo spools far quicker and from what I have heard it's generally a more responsive engine
i want one.
typical question and i know I'm late but how much did it cost you for the swap just for the 1j and mounts, wiring harness, etc. ?
So what about the engine harness and the throttle body situation
i mention in the video that mark panic did my wiring harness, as for the throttle body, you dont need to do anything with it, if you buy an engine that doesnt have Drive By Wire. The easiest way to tell, is on top of the throttle body, it will say ETSC-i. if it just says ETSC without the "i" then its good to go. another way to tell, is the non drive by wire ECU has 4 plugs and the DBW engine has 5 plugs on the ECU. Hope this helps.
for the radiator mount... did you have to modify the bottom mount or anything other than just cut at the top to fit the fans in?
the bottom is modified as well. a piece of angle iron was welded in after i notched it so it would sit vertically even
nice build! just wanted to let you know that the sticker isn't T E Q its actually Toyota in Japanese katakana. Its a bit stylized so it appears different but looks like this normally: トヨタ
haha thanks, and yea i know. the TEQ thing is just a running inside joke among some friends and i
Just a little thing to know! The 'TEQ' sticker is actually japanese characters for Toyota! haha. In japanese it directly reads "To-yo-Ta"
haha i know, dude. TEQ is a joke among my friends an i. i told them all it stands for "Toyota Exceptional Quality" LOL
Super clean brotha where did you pick up the engine and trans from?
www.jdmsource.ca
One question : Does it mess up the balance of the car? Like.. s chassis are basically go-karts... Does an I6 mess it up?
+lapped on paper, yes, it would effect the performance of the car in a track scenario where GRIP racing is involved. It would likely cause under steer in hard cornering an stuff like that. Drifting is another story, its still very controllable while drifting. This is my street car and i occasionally will be drifting it so i didnt worry too much about weight distribution.
In short, yes, it will effect the balance of the car, but if you can look past that and wont be grip racing it, then you got nothing to worry about, really.
+Frankenslide Thanks a lot! Very nice build btw.
how come the shifter comes right up in the stock location? I see alot of s13 1jz vvti swaps where they need a shifter extension
On the older R154's from the MK3 supra and older x-chassis from japan, the shifter is not as long. but on the JZX100 and JZX110 engines the shifter is extended already. its known as a "remote shift" r154. or "tripod" r154. it's longer than the older ones.
God damn is right! She’s a beauty💥
thanks man!
What engine harness did you use and what cx racing intercooler kit did you go with?
There is a gentleman named Mark Panic who lives out in the Pacific Northwest who does wiring harnesses. he's been doing my swap harnessed for 6 years and he's the man. www.panicwire.com for inquiries. or just email him at panicwire@gmail.com
also, the intercooler kit is just a mishimoto intercooler core and i purchased the 3" CX Racing "Universal Piping Kit" so it comes with a variety of different sections and bends and the fabrication work was done by LHT Performance in Pinellas Park, FL. i def dont recommend getting the black piping kit because in order to weld it up, you have to remove the paint. That's why you see the sections are black and some are regular silver where the welds are at.
Soo yea, CX Racing Universal 3" Intercooler Piping Kit.
also, i recommend doing a 2.5" kit instead of the 3" kit if you're running stock turbo. I think having the 3" kit caused it to have a small bit of turbo lag on stock boost, but if you're going with an aftermarket turbo setup, then def go with the 3" kit.
Street Lethal Garage thx you for answering my questions I appreciate all the help :)
no problem dude
I peeped that Rays plate. What part of florida you from? Assuming central. Sick 240 btw!
inverness. crystal river area.
What kind of driveshaft are you using
have the question about the elect throttle body just got this thing and wondering about this what did u do
only the JZX110 engines came with electronic throttle. the simnple solution is to not buy that engine. you want a jzx100 engine. if the throttle body says "ETCS-i" stay away. ETCS is what you want. no "i" if its too late for that, get a non electronic TB from somewhere and then have your wiring guy fix your harness up properly\
What blow off valve?
What wheels are on it? I couldn't understand. And do you run spacers on them?
Ruben Hernandez rota grids
Help please tell me were I could find the speed signal for the dash if you know please
Buy this and install it.
www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=287/mode=prod/prd126.htm
Thanks for the review yoo!
how are the fuel lines that they are close to the turbos?
ive gotten that downpipe glowing hot quite a few times and they werent starting to break down or anything however, as ou can guess, anything exposed to extreme heat like that, over a long period of time, will def break down. I would recommend coming up with a better solution for sure. maybe some kind of heatshield or some heat wrap like for exhaust manifolds or something of the sort.
i never heard of the sway bar being an issue with non vvti, do you know if that is the case?
vvti has literally NOTHING to do with the sway bar clearance. the vvti and non vvti have the exact same oil pans. whoever told you that is very confused. 1jz and 2jz have the same size oil pans across the board and the stock s-chassis sway bar will block the JZ oil pan from resting where it needs to.
Did you have to get special coils for swap ?
How does the ka radiator hold up to cooling the engine
it works just fine as long as you have a proper, sealed shroud and good fans that move a good amount of air.
How was the wiring?
just curious, did u have to change the tb and the intake manifold to eliminate the etsci? or did urs not come with. thanks bro.
only the JZX110 engines comes with the drive by wire. if you dont want to do that, just make sure you buy a JZX100 engine. its very simple to source an engine that doesnt say etcs-i on the TB
Frankenslide thanks for replying. just curious cause for my vvti 2jz the etsc i tb doesn't open all the way. I did just find out that driftmotion is selling a dbw delete kit for cheap so I might end up doing that. Thanks bro.
Hey, im not sure if you covered this in your video but did you beat in the transmission tunnel a little bit to get the r154 to fit properly without rubbing?
i did a little but it wasnt really required. when i say a little, i spent like 5 mins banging on it with a 3 pound sledge.
If you hadnt, you dont think it would have rubbed at all or even under a load? I have basically the same exact setup going into my car.
couldnt tell ya. just hit it will a mallet a bit to be safe man. it very well could. i just took extra precautions cuz i didnt feel like taking my engine out again. it also creats easier access to the starter incase you need to change it
Ahh, agreed. Thanks for the reply man. Ill be doing my swap this weekend actually. So im just gonna bang it out a little for peace of mind.
Hey i have one more question. What did you do with the 240sx stock injector resistor? and did you need a different one for the 1jz?
did you upgrade the turbo? I couldn't hear in the vid.
It's the stock one still
did you made extra clearence in the transmission tunel to fit the r154? or it fits without modification? thanks
i hammered at the tunnel with a 3 pound sledge for all of 5 minutes and barely put any effort in to it at all.. tbh you can probably fit it without any massaging.
Street Lethal Garage thanks for the information mate:)
So how did it go? Did you had to "tune" the tunnel?
Roughly How much did you spend for the whole swap?
What differential & driveshaft do you have?
180SX LSD and the driveshaft is an unknown. i bought it off a friend who had a 1jz s13. you can find many places like drive shaft shop or driftmotion to make you a driveshaft.
Frankenslide thanks!
This thing had a front swap?
Why didn't you go with the 2jz-gte?
There are multiple reasons that i choose 1jz's over 2jz.. ill name a few and tell you why but ill try and keep it as brief as possible.
1: 1jz vvti is factory single turbo from the factory. This is a huge plus, the twins suck and the single turbo is great.
2: Platform. The 1jz is a better engine for an S13. It's a small car and on paper the 2jz and 1jz make nearly the same horsepower on paper.
3: The 1jz vvti is available with a 5 speed manual that fits into s13's perfectly.
4: The 1jz is a more rev happy engine. It revs smoother and faster and takes high RPM's better than a 2jz
5: The sound. I personally think the 1jz sounds better.
6: This is my second 1jz vvti (first one was in an 89 cressida, see my older videos) and i just love these engines. I swear by them in fact. They're fantastic.
7: Powerband. The vvti and single turbo work flawlessly with eachother. The horsepower and torque stick very closely together all the way through the rev range. There is a dyno video in my older videos where you can see this for yourself as well.
Thats really all i can think of off the top of my head.
Thank you, I really appreciate your reply. I recently purchased a 240sx hatch and considered getting a 2jz because i hear they can make 400whp easy with stock internals and they make more torque stock for stock versus the 1jz.
the lightweight chassis of the s13/14 make it so the lower tq of the 1jz isnt even felt. the car moves very well. the stock 1jz vvti turbo is 400whp capable but not for long, but you have two fast and easy options to get there reliably for the turbo. you can send your stock turbo to driftmotion and they rebuild it with a billet compressor wheel and thats awesome. pretty affordable. OR tomei makes a bolt on turbo that is easily 550whp capable
thanks
thank you for the information really helpful going into a project myself and i need all the info i get
feel free to ask any questions on this video, bud. I keep an eye on the comments and can help you answer anything you need help with.
Love it. Good job
where did you get your fuel lines at? i couldnt hear
The Fuel Lines, Power Steering Kit and Engine Ground kit, all came from Chase Bays
Do we need an aftermarket fuel pressur regulator ?
you can if you want, but its not required. use the stock fuel dampener and connect your line to it under the intake mani.
+Frankenslide no coolant overflow tank ?
i didnt have one on when i took this video, but it was in the mail. ordered the black wrinkle one from mishimoto
+Frankenslide sorry for all my question ahah im doing this swap atm in my s13 hatch ... So the r154 from soarer shifter fit right in ?
I've got almost all the parts for the swap, how'd you do fuel lines?
i bou8ght the chase bays kit for the oem fuel pressure regulator.
I would like to swap a 1JZ into a E36, and all i would have to do is just swap the engine and that's it. Is it that easy? If i buy an 1JZ online it comes all complete? So later i won't have to add any more parts on it?
Wiring, cooling, swap mounts, drive shaft, and front mount intercooler should be all else you need other than the engine, trans, and ecu. Also some gauges of course.
@@ThePookybear56 and if i use the ECU from the 1JZ, will the engine start properly? All functions will work such as lights, front glass washer, etc... Or can i still use the ECU from the E36? Sry idk the right words for all car parts in english :/ Do u think i rly need some gauges? I want this for daily, so i would lile the interior to be original and simple without mods. Just the engine. Or u sugest i rly need them gauges?
IonePawPawing look at wiring specialties... Ive not done the swap I'm just doing research currently. Those functions should end up working if done right, they may not be plug and play but I believe that the e36 ECU can still be used to control those functions of they're not hard wired or able to be controlled by the jzx100 ecu
Aight. Apreciate the help! GL. ;)
IonePawPawing thanks homie! You too hopefully this won't be just a dream and I'll actually get her done someday!
What did you do as far as ECU choice and wiring harness?
stock toyota jzx100 ecu and wiring harness. the harness was converted by Mark Panic at Panic Wiring Solutions (Panic Wire)
Im thinking about getting a 240, and I wanna put a 1jz in it.. but I wanna average around 500hp, but use it as my daily.. around how much would it be? Or would it even be a good idea
it's totally doable but tbh, if its going to be your daily driver, just put the motor in and do some bolt ons. you'll be plenty happy with how these cars perform with a stock 1jz in them. its a very light car, it will be fast, no doubt. 500hp in a daily driven S13 is kind've pointless. I mean, sure, its awesome, but you dont NEED all that. Just do a nice down pipe, a nice front mount setup and a solid 3" exhaust and the car will easily make 300-320whp. These cars FLY with that kind of power and the inline 6 torque is just fine. Expect to spend around 6-8.5k on your swap.. depending on how much you do yourself and how much of the work you pay to have done. My s13 in this video made 320whp and i didnt have anything crazy done, just what i mention here in the video and the car was an absolute blast to drive. it had traction issues as is.. adding 200 more whp, it wont hook up so you'll just spin tires all the time, unless you wide body it and put some proper tires on it, with an LSD and no crazy negative camber or anything. If you plan to have a flashy stance style car, then the bolt on route like i suggested is DEF the way you want to go. It's all preference, bud.. like i said, just do the bolt ons and if you find yourself wanting more, then add it later. make getting the car up and running and to a daily driveable state your top priority - THEN start thinking about more power.
Street Lethal Garage thanks man, once I get the project started, I'll hyu so you can see the progress
sounds good, mate. just have fun, thats all that matters.
Hay man sick vid got the the same s13 as u with a dead single cam and wanted to do a 1j swap can you link me every thing u got to mounts and anything els u needed to use other then the 1j and trans unless u un BC
How can i get in touch? have a few questions??!
Where do you buy your rust free 240sx? I have one at my brother house but it not rust free.
just gotta look around, they're out there. i got this car in Mississippi
Clean rust free 240sx here about $2000 and up and not include engine and transmission. The road salt kill 240sx. Check out my 240sx but I think it on other account.
yea, i live in florida so most of our cars here are rust free
some states/counties also dont salt their roads so you can find out what states dont do that, and buy northern cars from those areas.
And what trans mounts did you use
xcessive
what you do for rpm and gauge temps ?
Dakota Digital makes a tach and speedo adapter. the water temp gauge on the dash is wired to work properly anyways
Hey where did u get the maf sensor
Ace R. It came on the engine, but you can use the sensor off of a 1996 to 1997 LS 400 as well.
@@Frankenslide thanks man i just got a 1j about to gather everything. Hows your car treating u
Ace R. Wish i still had this one, shes been replaced
@@Frankenslide nice thanks for the info ill probly ask some more stuff on my journey
did u tap those holes for the temp sensors.
yes sir.
Street Lethal Garage thanks i got the same car 89 im goin 2j
That setup is sickk 100 functional
best of luck to ya dude. if you have any questions just hmu. i dont mind helping people at all! i prefer the 1jz for street duty.. it's just my opinion but i think its only worth going 2jz if you have big power goals in mind... to me, 400-500 whp on a 1jz is way more fun on the street and they come with manual transmissions lol
Street Lethal Garage np. Thanks alot much appreciated
Where did you get that teq sticker
Touge factory
Thank you for sharing!
Of course!
can the heater fit if you wanted to run it
yes, u jus have to figure out which configurations of heater hose u wanna use to connect it to the firewall
This is a non turbo?
Do you have a check engine light?
no. my wiring guy knows how to wire the car so that it doesnt trigger the check engine light unless there is an issue
Nice. I was thinking of doing this swap, but I live where emissions are a thing. I was thinking since it has similar displacement to KA maybe I could pass. They only do the tailpipe sniffer test at idle and 1500 rpm, check for cat, and check for check engine light..
Guess I need a "wiring guy"
I love the 1jz vvti
What sway bar did you say?
Sikky
thank you
Yeah it is a beautifull car!
Does it have AC on?
Alift no, ac was deleted
@@Frankenslide Thanks for the fast reply! Nice car you got there!
did u have to do any mods to the trans tunnle
honestly i hit it a little bit with a small 3lb sledge but tbh id wager that the engine and trans fits fine without any banging