If you are installing these and have an aftermarket brake light or integrated rear system here’s a tip: Do the first wiring pattern he says and check if it is normal. If it is, then don’t do the second one. I did the second one first and burnt a fuse, then when I changed the fuse and did the first one it was working fine. By the way the fuse is a 7.5 in case you had the same problem as me, and the fuse box is located on the right side where the fake air intake is.
Made in the US, LED signals for $20 including plug-n-play harness? Tough to go wrong. Also bough relay and w/ shipping was only $45. Just installed, very happy, much, much better than stock signals and much less expensive than many other LED signals. I purchased the 'smoked' version and they look great. Thanks for providing simple, easy to follow videos with your products.
I freaking love you guys! Love my tidy tail on my FZ09, and now I'm going to do some more tidying up with these babies! I go to TST for anything and everything I can.
Great to hear. If you have a moment you should check out the sneak peak photo of the soon to be released integrated taillight for the FZ09 that can be seen on our instagram page. instagram.com/tstindustries
Installed the flush mount signals. looks great.I changed the auxiliary lights in the headlight to amber LED's and wired them to the turn signals. Now I have running lights and turn signals in the headlight as well as sweet flush mount front signals.
just installed my TST Flushmount signals today. I reccomend this product to anyone with the FZ09. Only 15 bucks (25 with the thingy) easy to install and it makes the bike look so much better! Only thing is that they're flashing pretty fast, faster than the video shows but its not a problem to me
+Wal Of The Mart We're very glad that you are enjoying our parts. If you want to slow down the flash rate we recommend going with our Gen2 Flasher Relay
Wait wait wait.... did you say that if I use these front signals with any type of LED rear lights, that I am going to lose my running lights? You start discussing it @13:05. I just ordered these turn signals along with your integrated taillight. Does that mean that I am going to lose my running lights? I sure hope not! If so, I might cancel my entire order. Thank you for any response.
This is a copy-paste straight from our product page of the front signals: Features: Comprised of 12 bright amber LEDs in each signal, Available in clear or smoked lens, Optional harness converters for plug and play installation, Signals only, NO running light If you use a single circuit signals, like the ones you ordered, you lose the running light function in the signals.
i bought these blinkers for the rear, not knowing they would cause my front LED blinkers to become dim. Is their a resistor I can add to the rear to cause the circuit to have the same resistance as the OEM incandescent bulbs, there by getting full brightness back on the front signals?
if your fronts went dim then you have the fronts wired in wrong. That is a sign of you not using the ground wire. You are using a two wire signal lamp connected to the running light and signal wires. You need to not use the running light wire and use the ground instead. That will solve your issue without the need to buy any additional parts.
after receiving your bullet to OEM converters, I set up my blinkers and everything, however the blinkers do not blink, they just remain on for the daytime running lights, however they do not blink when blinker is engaged. Not sure what's going on...I have tried every possible combination for the wires
+Nico Lucia Please see the section of our video about correct wiring. Forward to time stamp 13:26 and watch carefully. This will straighten out your problem.
+gunner dearborn Nope. You should not wire single circuit front signals to function as running lights because that will throw off the functionality of your signaling system. The symptom does not become obvious until you install LED signals or an integrated taillight on the rear. This is why some guys wire them in that way while having the OEM rear signals but change the wiring once the rear has been changed to LED.
So I have an R3 and on your site it says no running light feature. In this video you show how we can have running light feature. I do most likely plan to keep OEM rear turn signal. So it would be fine to keep running light front signals for my R3? And if so, would keeping them running shorten their life span?
You can configure the fronts to have running lights as shown in this video. It will not damage your bike or the signals. Just remember that if you ever go with LED rear signals you will have to reconfigure the fronts to no running light mode.
+TSTindustries so my flushmount turn signals came in along with the relay. And they look great! But one weird thing I ran into is that the front Flush mounts blink out of sync with my OEM rear turn signals. I was wondering if you guys know why it is doing that?
+Tankst3rTube This indicates that you have plugged in the signals in the scheme that retains running light function. In this configuration you are not using a system ground. Your positive lead to the signals is the running light which is a constant on circuit. Your bike's signaling system positive acts as a momentary ground when the signal is off. When the signal is on that circuit now pushes current in the opposing direction of the running light circuit at the same system voltage so they cancel and your signal shuts off. So here I explained how you achieved the phase shift; signaling system on will turn on rear signal but turn off front because of how the circuit is configured without system ground up front. The remedy is to use the front signals how they were designed to function. Reconfigure the connections to not have running light.
if i already installed tst industries rear LED's WITH relay, do i need to purchase another one for the front installing these front turn signals? (if i want regular blink speed)
not sure anyone can answer this but i saw a 3-to-2 wire adapter or another site....will it work on front turn signals if i have a relay installed? (trying to have regular blink speed with led's without resistors and with rear led's installed
The 3-2 converters will basically give you plug and play ability for connecting the signals. They have nothing to do with flash rate. I answered your other question already, and it seems as though you already installed one of our relays so you will be all set with flash rate.
+rommelrmm They can be wired up there but most people do not want them in the rear in such a narrow placement. We recommend our pod signal kit instead.
popped a fuse from trying to install, I have the intergreated tail light and used the color match up at the end of the video. where do I replace the fuse? and why did this happen?
There are a few things that could have caused the fuse to blow but if you were installing the front flushmounts, you more than likely slipped one of the rubber boots off of the bullet connectors and it shorted against the frame or other bullet connectors. Try retracing your steps and ensuring all connections are secure and properly installed.
+Vin Sakti Yes, you really can't beat that quality for that low of a price. When you include the harness converters for a small bump in price the plug-and-play installation makes it that much better.
So I have a 2016 Yamaha Fz 09. I just bought this product. I followed your video step by step. I did the left side, and it worked perfect. I then moved to the right side, and now none of my blinkers work at all. What did i do wrong?
if you replaced the fuse with our remedying the cause of the blown fuse then you blew it again. You probably wired up the signal and converter wrong. Disconnect everything and connect black to red, yellow to brown, and do not connect blue. Then make sure all connections are insulated and none of the conducting materials can touch the bike or each other.
you can stop the fast flashing it just needs a load resistor I got led turn signals up front and led sequential (like the new mustangs) integrated turn signal
+Tony Doering We sell the resistors as well but they don't make for a very professional installation. You end up having to wire in a resistor for every signal lamp, and then you have dangling heated elements. I guess it comes down to how clean you want your installation, and what your time is worth. Wiring in four resistors and figuring out where to place them will probably take you an hour. Snapping in a relay takes just minutes, and then you end up having the ability to tune your flash rate to your liking.
Neat looking product. The window with the rubber piece left out needs to be covered other wise you have electrical wiring exposed. I ride year round and that pesky rain water and road wash gets into even the smallest opening.
you guys are awesome for answering so fast, and i thank you for answering both my questions below. i have one last question lol: when plugging the front flashers with your 3-3 adapter, if i just use 2 wires, will i be able to use the third wire to plug other led's? (of course i will be grounding it and the wattage will be calculated) in other words is there power from that "useless" wire?
That is correct. There is a constant current available in the blue lead. That circuit is the running light circuit so you can use it to power LEDs that you want to be on constantly.
I would have bought this yesterday if i didnt lose the running light option. If you come up with one that doesnt have that issue, i will definitely buy it.
hehehehe....good timing. We will be launching some special signals for the Yamaha FZ series bikes that are plug and play, mount easily, and have a running light in a color of your choice. Amber color will be standard of course, but you can get hyper white, blue, pink, etc. If you want more information please email our support guys through our site and ask about Mech-GTR products.
I tried to install them and now none of my running lights work. I couldn’t get the right combination and then all my break lights and everything just quit working. Anyone got any ideas what’s going on let me know
At some point you allowed the running light wire and ground to touch causing a short circuit and blowing a fuse. Replace the fuse. Run yellow from signal to brown on harness converter, black on signal to red. Insulate to make sure nothing touches again.
Tim is correct!!.... And you guys left a big ugly hole from the rubber that no longer fits.... Good way to get dirt and water all over the electrical connections you carelessly put electrical tape over.... Not a very clean or complete install
+Brandon Verge If you take apart the components of that bike you will see that they are not sealed off from the outside at all. The rubber plug is redundant as water and debris can get in really easily around the back of the assembly. If you want to reinstall it you can but it requires cutting of the rubber to eliminate the bulk that gets in the way of installing the flushmounts. We chose not to do that because it is senseless. The electrical tape is there to keep the insulators locked in place. Our harness converters come with insulators pre-installed. They are meant to slide to give access to the electrical connections. Once the electrical connection is made the insulator goes over it, and we use a bit of electrical tape to hold it in place so it doesn't shift. This portion of the bike is not subject to extreme temperatures or conditions so electrical tape is sufficient for the purpose it is there for. Furthermore, the electrical connections mount behind the headlight and nowhere near the hole under the signal pod so anything that enters through there will fall back out from the bottom of the headlight shroud and not even touch the electrical connections.
I have this product and may choose not to Install it due to not having a complete assembly. would be nice if you used black plastic not white so it dont stand out as much with out the rubber cover on. would be nice to see how you would cut that rubber to make it work. like the OEM part. and I sure it will be noticed when wheeling.
Those little clear plastic pieces on the ends of the wires are heat-shrink - hit them with a lighter or heat-gun and they'll shrink down around the connectors and they WILL NOT move. No need for gummy electrical tape.
Those sleeves are not made of polyolefin heat shrink material. They are made from a type of vinyl material that will darken and become brittle with flame or heat. We suggest following our directions.
Electrical tape should never be used on a car or bike. The heat makes the adhesive gummy and it will come off eventually. Either use harness tape or heat shrink the connections. Soldering and heat shrinking the adapter harness to the LEDs would be the best way. Always use heat shrink with a heat activated adhesive to make the connection water tight.
Why you guys don’t ship your products to India? India is a huge automobile market. You guys are shipping your products in African or Middle East countries where nobody gives a shit but you guys ignored the largest automobile market in the world. How ironic. :(
At this time we have not found a viable solution to shipping to India. We have seen countless cases of lost packages, theft, fraudulent charges, and items returned to us. Until we are able to provide our customers and our company ample security with shipping, we will not ship to India and a handful of other countries.
TSTindustries There are ample of US courier companies have their services in India. For example Fedex. As all the issues you mentioned above can be resolved if you chose a reliable courier service. You can also sell it through amazon global as a third party seller.
If you are installing these and have an aftermarket brake light or integrated rear system here’s a tip: Do the first wiring pattern he says and check if it is normal. If it is, then don’t do the second one. I did the second one first and burnt a fuse, then when I changed the fuse and did the first one it was working fine. By the way the fuse is a 7.5 in case you had the same problem as me, and the fuse box is located on the right side where the fake air intake is.
Made in the US, LED signals for $20 including plug-n-play harness? Tough to go wrong. Also bough relay and w/ shipping was only $45. Just installed, very happy, much, much better than stock signals and much less expensive than many other LED signals. I purchased the 'smoked' version and they look great. Thanks for providing simple, easy to follow videos with your products.
I freaking love you guys! Love my tidy tail on my FZ09, and now I'm going to do some more tidying up with these babies! I go to TST for anything and everything I can.
Great to hear. If you have a moment you should check out the sneak peak photo of the soon to be released integrated taillight for the FZ09 that can be seen on our instagram page.
instagram.com/tstindustries
+TSTindustries - Going right now and following!
TSTindustries Just ordered my pod signals with the harnesses!
Thanks for the business again. Please tag us in Instagram photos of your bike when you throw them up.
+TSTindustries - For sure!
Installed the flush mount signals. looks great.I changed the auxiliary lights in the headlight to amber LED's and wired them to the turn signals. Now I have running lights and turn signals in the headlight as well as sweet flush mount front signals.
That sounds like a pretty awesome setup.
Is this the same process for like the Pod LED’s?
just installed my TST Flushmount signals today. I reccomend this product to anyone with the FZ09. Only 15 bucks (25 with the thingy) easy to install and it makes the bike look so much better! Only thing is that they're flashing pretty fast, faster than the video shows but its not a problem to me
+Wal Of The Mart We're very glad that you are enjoying our parts. If you want to slow down the flash rate we recommend going with our Gen2 Flasher Relay
I'm very impressed with the quality of this video. I'm about to order a pair of these, as suggested by a rider on instagram.
Awesome. Welcome to the TST family.
Wait wait wait.... did you say that if I use these front signals with any type of LED rear lights, that I am going to lose my running lights? You start discussing it @13:05. I just ordered these turn signals along with your integrated taillight. Does that mean that I am going to lose my running lights? I sure hope not! If so, I might cancel my entire order. Thank you for any response.
This is a copy-paste straight from our product page of the front signals:
Features: Comprised of 12 bright amber LEDs in each signal, Available in clear or smoked lens, Optional harness converters for plug and play installation, Signals only, NO running light
If you use a single circuit signals, like the ones you ordered, you lose the running light function in the signals.
how do you seal off the light where the rubber piece was
th-cam.com/video/r31swTSj6aI/w-d-xo.html
i bought these blinkers for the rear, not knowing they would cause my front LED blinkers to become dim. Is their a resistor I can add to the rear to cause the circuit to have the same resistance as the OEM incandescent bulbs, there by getting full brightness back on the front signals?
if your fronts went dim then you have the fronts wired in wrong. That is a sign of you not using the ground wire. You are using a two wire signal lamp connected to the running light and signal wires. You need to not use the running light wire and use the ground instead. That will solve your issue without the need to buy any additional parts.
Hello sir..Can i order like this led flushmount signal?
That’s a bit of an open ended question. Yes, we do sell them and the think is in the description.
what would be the alternative for buying your OEM adaptor? Would I just cut the OEM plug, and plug on the new signals, and then solder them together?
you can do that or even use inexpensive crimp - on bullet connectors instead of doldering
+TSTindustries *soldering
after receiving your bullet to OEM converters, I set up my blinkers and everything, however the blinkers do not blink, they just remain on for the daytime running lights, however they do not blink when blinker is engaged. Not sure what's going on...I have tried every possible combination for the wires
+Nico Lucia Please see the section of our video about correct wiring. Forward to time stamp 13:26 and watch carefully. This will straighten out your problem.
+TSTindustries thanks!
Will wiring it that way still allow the front turn signals to work as running lights?
+gunner dearborn Nope. You should not wire single circuit front signals to function as running lights because that will throw off the functionality of your signaling system. The symptom does not become obvious until you install LED signals or an integrated taillight on the rear. This is why some guys wire them in that way while having the OEM rear signals but change the wiring once the rear has been changed to LED.
Where was the windscreen purchased/company?
Also just ordered the f09 fender eliminator. Excited to add it
+Colin Morrissey This was a customer's bike. I do not know where he got this windscreen. I do believe shopyamaha.com has a similar version
So I have an R3 and on your site it says no running light feature. In this video you show how we can have running light feature. I do most likely plan to keep OEM rear turn signal. So it would be fine to keep running light front signals for my R3? And if so, would keeping them running shorten their life span?
You can configure the fronts to have running lights as shown in this video. It will not damage your bike or the signals. Just remember that if you ever go with LED rear signals you will have to reconfigure the fronts to no running light mode.
+TSTindustries so we can have them as running lights and turn signals at the same time, correct?
+TSTindustries so my flushmount turn signals came in along with the relay. And they look great! But one weird thing I ran into is that the front Flush mounts blink out of sync with my OEM rear turn signals. I was wondering if you guys know why it is doing that?
+Tankst3rTube This indicates that you have plugged in the signals in the scheme that retains running light function. In this configuration you are not using a system ground. Your positive lead to the signals is the running light which is a constant on circuit. Your bike's signaling system positive acts as a momentary ground when the signal is off. When the signal is on that circuit now pushes current in the opposing direction of the running light circuit at the same system voltage so they cancel and your signal shuts off. So here I explained how you achieved the phase shift; signaling system on will turn on rear signal but turn off front because of how the circuit is configured without system ground up front. The remedy is to use the front signals how they were designed to function. Reconfigure the connections to not have running light.
if i already installed tst industries rear LED's WITH relay, do i need to purchase another one for the front installing these front turn signals? (if i want regular blink speed)
No sir. One relay controls the entire signaling system so if you've already installed that you will be all set.
Can you provide a link to the flasher relay as well? I can't seem to find it in your description or comments!
sure...it is: th-cam.com/video/xqnX0Jge3bU/w-d-xo.html
You can always find these videos through their product page on our website
Mines a block connector fitting? Do you do fittings for this type?
Could you be a bit more specific so we can better assist you?
not sure anyone can answer this but i saw a 3-to-2 wire adapter or another site....will it work on front turn signals if i have a relay installed? (trying to have regular blink speed with led's without resistors and with rear led's installed
The 3-2 converters will basically give you plug and play ability for connecting the signals. They have nothing to do with flash rate. I answered your other question already, and it seems as though you already installed one of our relays so you will be all set with flash rate.
Is that the OEM yamaha cowel on the front of that fz09?
Yes but with an aftermarket windscreen added
Will these fit the US model fj-09?
Hi, thanks for a great video! Can I use them on the rear as well?
+rommelrmm on place of stock signals
+rommelrmm They can be wired up there but most people do not want them in the rear in such a narrow placement. We recommend our pod signal kit instead.
popped a fuse from trying to install, I have the intergreated tail light and used the color match up at the end of the video. where do I replace the fuse? and why did this happen?
There are a few things that could have caused the fuse to blow but if you were installing the front flushmounts, you more than likely slipped one of the rubber boots off of the bullet connectors and it shorted against the frame or other bullet connectors. Try retracing your steps and ensuring all connections are secure and properly installed.
those are really good signal for $14.99 , i like it!!
+Vin Sakti Yes, you really can't beat that quality for that low of a price. When you include the harness converters for a small bump in price the plug-and-play installation makes it that much better.
So I have a 2016 Yamaha Fz 09. I just bought this product. I followed your video step by step. I did the left side, and it worked perfect. I then moved to the right side, and now none of my blinkers work at all. What did i do wrong?
you most likely blew a fuse
I did blow a fuse, but after I replaced it still nothing. Any other thoughts?
if you replaced the fuse with our remedying the cause of the blown fuse then you blew it again. You probably wired up the signal and converter wrong. Disconnect everything and connect black to red, yellow to brown, and do not connect blue. Then make sure all connections are insulated and none of the conducting materials can touch the bike or each other.
Could I have blown a blinker relay?
that is difficult to do but not out of the question
Will these work on the stock rear turn signals as well?
They would if you used turn signal adapter plates but there are may better options for signals to put on the rear of the bike.
Will these fit a 2016 Yamaha FJ-09?
yes they should
you can stop the fast flashing it just needs a load resistor I got led turn signals up front and led sequential (like the new mustangs) integrated turn signal
+Tony Doering We sell the resistors as well but they don't make for a very professional installation. You end up having to wire in a resistor for every signal lamp, and then you have dangling heated elements. I guess it comes down to how clean you want your installation, and what your time is worth. Wiring in four resistors and figuring out where to place them will probably take you an hour. Snapping in a relay takes just minutes, and then you end up having the ability to tune your flash rate to your liking.
exactly what I am looking for
Great to hear. We hope we can be a part of your bike builds for years to come!
Neat looking product. The window with the rubber piece left out needs to be covered other wise you have electrical wiring exposed. I ride year round and that pesky rain water and road wash gets into even the smallest opening.
The FZ07 has the same setup from the factory but Yamaha did not use the rubber seal in the FZ07. I can't see that rubber part being essential.
Eu gostei muito o estilo do botão deixa a bike musculosa legal
you guys are awesome for answering so fast, and i thank you for answering both my questions below. i have one last question lol: when plugging the front flashers with your 3-3 adapter, if i just use 2 wires, will i be able to use the third wire to plug other led's? (of course i will be grounding it and the wattage will be calculated) in other words is there power from that "useless" wire?
That is correct. There is a constant current available in the blue lead. That circuit is the running light circuit so you can use it to power LEDs that you want to be on constantly.
yellow on signal to brown on the converter, and black on the signal to red on the converter should get your signals going.
Good looking LEDS for the FZ09 but can NOT see them during the day. Upgraded to the Proton 500's. TST upgrade the quality of your LEDS!!
We have a new signaling system coming out for the FZ09 that will be brighter.
TSTindustries when is that coming out? I don't want to buy the old ones if new ones are coming out shortly.
I would have bought this yesterday if i didnt lose the running light option. If you come up with one that doesnt have that issue, i will definitely buy it.
hehehehe....good timing. We will be launching some special signals for the Yamaha FZ series bikes that are plug and play, mount easily, and have a running light in a color of your choice. Amber color will be standard of course, but you can get hyper white, blue, pink, etc. If you want more information please email our support guys through our site and ask about Mech-GTR products.
TSTindustries thank you.
Great video tst industries
I tried to install them and now none of my running lights work. I couldn’t get the right combination and then all my break lights and everything just quit working. Anyone got any ideas what’s going on let me know
At some point you allowed the running light wire and ground to touch causing a short circuit and blowing a fuse. Replace the fuse. Run yellow from signal to brown on harness converter, black on signal to red. Insulate to make sure nothing touches again.
TSTindustries thank you!!
Tim is correct!!.... And you guys left a big ugly hole from the rubber that no longer fits.... Good way to get dirt and water all over the electrical connections you carelessly put electrical tape over.... Not a very clean or complete install
+Brandon Verge If you take apart the components of that bike you will see that they are not sealed off from the outside at all. The rubber plug is redundant as water and debris can get in really easily around the back of the assembly. If you want to reinstall it you can but it requires cutting of the rubber to eliminate the bulk that gets in the way of installing the flushmounts. We chose not to do that because it is senseless. The electrical tape is there to keep the insulators locked in place. Our harness converters come with insulators pre-installed. They are meant to slide to give access to the electrical connections. Once the electrical connection is made the insulator goes over it, and we use a bit of electrical tape to hold it in place so it doesn't shift. This portion of the bike is not subject to extreme temperatures or conditions so electrical tape is sufficient for the purpose it is there for. Furthermore, the electrical connections mount behind the headlight and nowhere near the hole under the signal pod so anything that enters through there will fall back out from the bottom of the headlight shroud and not even touch the electrical connections.
I think I was able to get them back in. Now I need to go look.
I have this product and may choose not to Install it due to not having a complete assembly. would be nice if you used black plastic not white so it dont stand out as much with out the rubber cover on. would be nice to see how you would cut that rubber to make it work. like the OEM part. and I sure it will be noticed when wheeling.
Those little clear plastic pieces on the ends of the wires are heat-shrink - hit them with a lighter or heat-gun and they'll shrink down around the connectors and they WILL NOT move. No need for gummy electrical tape.
Those sleeves are not made of polyolefin heat shrink material. They are made from a type of vinyl material that will darken and become brittle with flame or heat. We suggest following our directions.
@@TSTindustries My mistake. Thank you for the clarification
This is so much cleaner, thank you guys so much HaHa
You're welcome
Electrical tape should never be used on a car or bike. The heat makes the adhesive gummy and it will come off eventually. Either use harness tape or heat shrink the connections. Soldering and heat shrinking the adapter harness to the LEDs would be the best way. Always use heat shrink with a heat activated adhesive to make the connection water tight.
+Tim Ammons Yea...try to sell a do it yourselfer at home with that proposition
Yellow brown. Black red.
Why you guys don’t ship your products to India? India is a huge automobile market. You guys are shipping your products in African or Middle East countries where nobody gives a shit but you guys ignored the largest automobile market in the world. How ironic. :(
At this time we have not found a viable solution to shipping to India. We have seen countless cases of lost packages, theft, fraudulent charges, and items returned to us. Until we are able to provide our customers and our company ample security with shipping, we will not ship to India and a handful of other countries.
TSTindustries There are ample of US courier companies have their services in India. For example Fedex. As all the issues you mentioned above can be resolved if you chose a reliable courier service. You can also sell it through amazon global as a third party seller.