I know this is super old, 9 years at the time I'm writing this, but this was exactly what I needed to do with my Canon FD 50mm f1.4 SSC. This was a perfect video for this operation. It was very helpful with all the right camera angles to show everything. My lens is back together and working perfectly! Thank you so much!
jaded... all in, beat, beaten, bleary, burn-out, bushed, done, drained, dragging butt, exhausted, fatigued, knackered, played-out, pooped, tapped, tired, tuckered, weary, wiped-out... Well there you go. It is all in the delivery. Do not tell anyone... but there is actually a well-spring of energy and optimism hiding behind that voice. Thanks for the fun comment. And thank you for your interest in FOC.
This is going to be a huge help! I've acquired one of these lenses, but the aperture is stuck open at f1.4. I've rebuilt the later FD mount lenses, but never one with the breach locking collar, and wasn't sure how to remove the mount.
Can you tell me what the two small screws on the side of the silver piece do? The piece that is part of the mount. The video is fantastic and very much appreciated. I just picked up an AE-1 with this 50 and I'm excited to restore the old beauty.
The 1.8 FD SC version is slightly different in construction but close to the 1.4 . I was able to remove the rear element in a similar fashion and clean the blades on one side. I did could not remove the blade assembly. This worked for me. Thanks.
Some are fairly easy particularly if you mix in a little persistence and patience... however some maybe might not be as easy as they might first appear, but they are doable.
What type of contact cleaner is that? Also, what might be the issues if the blades are stuck wide open - are there springs that control the aperture that can go faulty or have issues with these older breech mount FD lenses?
There is a spring, however the blades can stick open because oil migration as well. www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras Affiliate disclosure: Please be advised that the link provided is an affiliate link and a small commission is received by the creator of this channel if you choose to make a purchase using this link. This adds no extra expense to your purchase. Your support of this channel is greatly appreciated. Thank you for making any purchases through the link on this channel.
If, when attempting this repair, the aperture mechanism does not work properly than the aperture diaphragm stopped down linkage was probably not positioned properly. The mount assembly will have to be removed again and reset taking care to keep the lever on the mount assembly to the right of the post connected to the diaphragm blade unit.
Each step is simple. Ideally the diaphragm unit would be dissembled too, that would not be simple. Hence the flush cleaning short cut. The cleaning of the lens elements if needed was not shown to facilitate a shorter video. Canned air is fine, Be careful not to invert the can and jettison the propellant in unwanted places. A hand blower does not produce as much pressure which at times can be insufficient for a stubborn spec making the canned air good choice if used carefully. Filtered compressed air is ideal as the pressure can be precisely regulated. The elements only need to be cleaned with lens cleaner and a micro cloth if their condition so warrants.
Jake Croop Please take the time and effort to remove the lens group. If you do not remove the elements with the flush cleaning method the dissolved oil and cleaner could end up fouling the lens group. Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Very professionally expalined, thanks. I have the lens and use it with sony a6000. I can see dust inside, wondering if I will be able to clean the lens using this guide.
Hi, it seems that the diaphragm of my lens is locked at full aperture. I would try to see if I can unlock it by my self . It's absolutely necessary to unscrew the front lenses ?
Thank you for your help in getting my aperture unstuck. It now operates smoothly. My problem now is that the F-stop apertures are not accurate. For example my F 22 aperture should close to a diameter of about 2.27 mm but is actually closer to 1 mm. Is there a way to re-calibrate the F-stop settings on the Canon FD 50mm 1 : 1.8 Lens? Thank you.
Brilliant video! Does anyone know how much this repair should cost at a camera shop? I don't have the tools or confidence to do this one myself so I'll have to take it in.
Does someone sell a "camera repair kit" which includes items like the friction mat, stopper, adjustable pin spanner, tiny tweezers and special glue, etc.?
I did exactly same as you did. But my one does not synchronize the aperture when I test it after inserting mount ring. The aperture works well without mount ring..
Excellent video!I have a Pentax KM that had a battery leak in it.I removed the bottom plate to remove the battery and clean up the mess.Now the battery cover is stuck solid.Is there any way to remove it without destroying it?I could cut a slot in it and use a straight screwdriver,but then I'd have to replace it.Mechanically the camera works great and this is the only problem with it.
Try a solution of vinegar to break down the corrosion. Follow it with some penetrating oil. If you end up cutting a slot in the battery lid, due so carefully and you should be able to reuse the cover... albeit a little less pretty.
Hello. I´m trying to clean my lens but 2 of the 3 screws that holds the filter ring are stick. How can I unstick them? Great series of videos, thanks a lot! Guillermo
Make sure the tip of your screwdriver is in good shape so you can gain the maximum torque. Heat the head of the screw with the tip of a solder iron. Seep some isopropyl alcohol around the head of the screw.
Thanks loads for this! Got one of these lenses really cheap because the aperture was stuck open, followed this tutorial and now it works fine! One question; I went a bit crazy with the contact cleaner and some seems to have got under the focus ring and messed with the grease in there... now the focus is quite stiff, slow and grainy. Any ideas how to smooth it out?
+Tom Box The focus helical threads will have to be exposed so you can access them and seep alcohol onto the threads and work it through them. You could do a much more thorough job of cleaning if you disassemble the helical. But unless you have past experience dealing with the such an assembly, ABSOLUTELY do not take the helical apart while attempting to clean. You will play heck getting them back in the proper position. Once the threads are limbered up from the alcohol let it evaporate and recheck their function. If satisfied, you will then need to work a light grease into the threads. A synthetic lubricant is preferred.
I removed the screws(on the side) from the aperture ring too. 2 steeel balls and a spring fell off. Damned, i dont know how the mechanic inside was before.
One is for the aperture click stops. The other might be for the AE lock. There is a spring and a hole the size of the bearing for that the spring drops into with the bearing resting on top. With the right technique it is not to difficult to install. Apply a little graphite grease to hold the bearing in place on when seating the ring.
Hi, thank you for sharing this awesome videos. I'm wondering where I could get replacement springs for the internals of old camera lenses. I have a old Minolta lens where the spring that opens the aperture has lost it's pull. Any clues to where I could find a replacement would be very helpful. Thanks!
It might be possible to rework the existing spring to increase tension. If the spring is broken in the middle than a substitute can be salvaged from another lens. It does not have to be a perfect match. Just try to find something similar in tension and compression. Sometime local hardware stores will caring small springs that might be a close match.
Hi Mike & Followers, I have an older Canon 50mm FD 1.8 S.C. lens. I looked at the 1.8 video and it describes the newer style FD lens. I am commenting here as my 1.8 SC is an original FD lens with the bayonet ring, disassembly for this 1.4 lens is mostly the same as the older style 1.8. NOW for my problem, my 1.8 SC has a completely stuck open diaphragm. This lens also has a locking lever on the back. With the bayonet ring released all the levers work smoothly, as does the aperture ring and the "auto" setting along with the "auto" setting release button. Yet the lens is wide open. The small lock lever on the back of the lens is on the white dot and will not move to the red dot. It sticks halfway. Is there any difference in the tear-down procedure due to the back locking lever? Are there any extra springs, or internal parts I need to be aware of? As always if you'd like to actually see the lens and do a video on the older FD lenses with the locking lever I am open to sending it to you for a look. Thanks for all the great videos and your time in answering. Tom Heckhaus
There are no springs that will detach during dissemble unless they are deliberately removed. It is more than likely that there is so much oil that has migrated onto the aperture blades that they are stuck firmly open. The breech mount lens disassembly is not substantially different than that of the bayonet mount. However you will see that you will need to rotate the breech ring slightly to access one of the mount screws. Upon reassembly the timing of the levers and linkage is virtually the same, but the positioning of the mount is a little different due to the two styles of mount construction. Although not ideal, on the older style lens, if the cause of malfunction is oil on the blades, you may be able to simply remove the front and rear lens groups and flush the blades until they release with aerosol contact cleaner. For additional information and options on repairs of your vintage photo equipment ... if you would like you may go to phototronic.biz. Thanks again Tom for your early and continued interest in FOC.
I've got a 1.8 sitting here, breech lock similar to your 1.4. I can't get the front name plate off. I'm using the large soft rubber corks. Is there anything I can dribble in the front to loosen it up? I'm tearing it apart to clean the blades I think something has seeped under the name plate and it's sticking. Thanks
Some penetrating oil followed by alcohol might do the trick, but of course any residue will have to be removed before attempting to again use the friction stopper. Patience and persistence is usually rewarded. Also you might set the lens face down on a heating pad for a bit. As a last resort carefully and evenly drill holes in the name plate ring to accept the tips of a spanner wrench.
I've got an unusual FD 50mm 1.8 lens (with a min aperture of f/16), and have no idea how to take out the front lens element so I can get to the stuck diaphragm. There are no notches for a spanner wrench, and the element seems to be firmly in place, so it's not falling out. Would I have to go around to the back to try to repair this lens?
The front name plate ring will generally loosen with the application of a small amount of isopropyl alcohol seeped around its outer edge. A stopper type of friction wrench will help grip the ring to pop it loose so it can be removed.
Hello, Thanks for vidéo ;) I have a problem with mine : i can not unscrew the ring of the front lens! Yet I have a "rubber pad" like yours, I already used on other lens smoothly. Do you have a "trick" to unscrew it ? When I look at the video, it seems that there is a "gray" material on the perimeter of your ring. Is it sticky ? Thanks for your help;) Patrick
It is held in place with glue. Soften the glue by seeping alcohol under the name plate. The name plate should then pop free when the friction pad is applied.
The two screws on the side of the breech lock ring remove the stop for the ring. In order to completely separate the breech lock ring from the rear lens plate the plate is removed. Generally three screws secure the rear plate on a Canon made FD lens. With the rear plate removed, remove the two stop screws and spin the breech lock ring.
Hello Again, any idea if this disassembly is the same for a Canon 50mm f1.4 FL? I have an FL with the breech-lock mount (As all were) and the aperture lever seems loose it flops around and does not operate the diaphragm. Thanks
It is slightly different but similar. Possible access thru the back of the lens will a bit different on the linkages. As you probably already suspect there might be disconnected spring or a jammed lever. The blades could also be stuck wide open.
Thanks again Mike, by the way I checked the Amazon link and I see you are an author. Good for you congratulations. As far as the lens. I ordered a complete Canon FL service manual online and am still waiting for it. I have discovered that there were two types of FL lenses. One had the A-M switch just behind the aperture dial on the lens front and the other type has the A-M switch mounted on the rear of the lens near the breech lock mount. A search on TH-cam turned up a guy dismantling a lens but his was the opposite of mine. AS soon as I get the FL manual I'll have a go. Thanks again and best wishes to you and your family for the Christmas Season and the NEW YEAR. Tom
Hi! Great videos, i have a question. I currently have an minolta MD W.ROKKOR 28mm 1:3.5 that has a stuck diaphram. I cant even move the external ring to make it open (its actually closed) Any idea? what can i do?
Sometimes the oil that might migrate on to blades can be so sticky that it "glues" the blades tight. It could also be an issue with the stop down lever mechanism. Do not force.
thank you! I "fixed" the problem, now the diaprham works and moves, however it does not longer "stick" on the right aperture, it does not have "stops" anymore when i turn it, its just smooth. Wich is not that good but i guess alteast now i can use the lense!
I have a Canon FD (not breech, new) 24mm f/2 with oily blades. I went in through the front and have removed all the glass down to the blades. I noticed that with the 50mm f/1.8 you removed the aperture assembly to clean it, vs the 50mm f/1.4 SSC, where you removed the rear glass and cleaned the blades in place. I would prefer to remove the assembly, and leave the rear glass in place. This one has 3 screws with a pretty heavy clear red external lock substance. Is it riskier to remove some FD aperture mechanisms as compared to others? Are you familiar with the 24mm f/2? Thank you for your amazingly helpful videos.
If you can remove all of the glass (the glass must be out of the housing before flush cleaning for the cleaner can get trapped between lens groups) the diaphragm unit can be left in place, just be aware of the flow of cleaner out oft he housing and try to limit how much of the cleaner flows through the focus helical.
can you provide me a link of a video for vivitar 28mm f2.5 kiron made. it has stuck aperture does not go beyond f 5.6 by the aperture ring moves till f22. Thanks
Hi trying to fix my Canon 50mm f1.8 FD lens (old type similar to the f1.4 in video), and following your video in removing the front name plate ring, but its seems that its just rotating and not coming out? This lens has bever been serviced at all. Is there a possibility that the thread are off? what can be the work around for this stuck front name plate ring? this has been frustrating as thats the start of this lens CLA.
+Orland Punzalan Might just be glued in. If the name plate is spinning about you probably broke the glue free. Try lifting it out with a plastic pry tool or just flip the lens and see if it falls out.
+Fix Old Cameras Hi Mate, i really thought that the plate has thread and it turned out its just glued. i managed to pry it with a thin spatula. thanks for this.
Hi My friend, i have reached this point. Managed to dis-assemble all and cleans the rest. Now its time to put back. But have some question on the position in this aperture lever. This is old type FD50mm 1.8. Is the arrow position in the right place?
Hello, I have a problem with the reassembly. after disassembly+cleaning, the aperture preset ring seems to have lost connection to the aperture itself. When you turn the ring and snap the aperture lever, it alwas closes to about f/8 no matter if the ring is set to 1,4 or 16. I am afraid I may have been moving the lever with the two metal sticks in the wrong direction, reulting in a clicky sound. After getting it back into the initial position, it didnt do anything anymore. is there any way to fix this or is this lens going to be a "fungus-free-glass" donor for my other 1,4s? I am pretty sure I placed the bayonet and the connectors right...
The back plate linkage did not get connected correctly. You probably missed dropping the plate aperture link into the lens body U-shaped aperture linkage . It happens to those even experienced with this lens. Take the back off study the video frame that shows the linkage set up at time 4:17 on the video and try again. You will get it.
Hello, thank you for your reply, I disassembled the lens and checked if the linkage did get connected correctly. I think it did. Aditionally, the Problem appears even if you move the lever with the connected spring on the front side of the aperture assembly (without having the whole silver ring assembly mounted). It just doesnt close all the way to f/16. I have two 50/1.4 disassembled (both with oily aperture). One does close to f/16, and one does not. The one that closes properly has still some oil on the back of the blades, but now I am afraid to take the back part off :-/ If it would help, I can do a quick Video showing my problem. I am more of a Minolta guy, so I do not understand how the Canons mechanics exactly works. But having a 50mm 1,4s standing useless in my shelf three times made me try the fix :D
Check the aperture cam ring is in the proper position. There is just not that many things that can block the movement of the aperture blades. Maybe by proceeding forward with the other lens, by comparison, you will be able to see what is out of place in the malfunctioning lens.
Hello, Thank you for your encouraging help. I managed to find out my mistake using the third 50/1.4:: the lever with the two metal pins had been moved way over the point where it slides the small lock nose away and it got blocked behind it. However, the nose is so small that you barely notice it. Using a small screwdriver, I was able to push the lever base back into the correct position and let the nose snap back. Now I managed to repair all three 50/1,4 plus an 85 /1,8 (which is very very similar, how I noticed.)- all thanks to your Video. Nice!
The Jupiter-8 50mm or the Contax 50mm Sonnar, which is the lens the Jupiter-8 was apparently copied, could definitely be featured in a Fix Old Camera video. The Jupitar-8 50mm is solid metal, and contains few parts when compared to most other lenses of this type. It consists of the optical unit, including the diaphragm and the step-less aperture ring, and the main body, including the focusing ring. The two can be unscrewed from each other. The main body with the focusing ring can also be disassembled. Because of its simple construction, the entire lens rotates during focusing. Thank you for your interest and suggestion.
hay I have two fd lens lens one is a JCpenny and the other is osawa and the guy who sold it to me put on the wrong rear lens cap on both they put the canon brand and the cap is jammed on them ....... one of the lens i tryed the ply it off but it won't budge can I have some help?
+Adam Norpchen Sometime just a little extra force will free the cap. Stressing only a little extra force. If the breach lock is not pressed in by the proper fit of the rear cap it will not want to turn to release. Look at a lens without the cap so you can see where the lock post is located then make an access hole. You can heat the tip of screw driver to melt through the plastic. If you try to drill a hole you might not be able to control the drill and cause inadvertent damage when you punch through the plastic.
1:27 Exactly this is what I do in my case occupy goes around the entire element tube lucky as it says in the video but is just where are the hongon Greetings
It might be on the long list of thoriated (containing thorium oxide) lenses manufactured to minimize chromatic aberration and utilize lenses of lower curvature. As long as the lens is not fogging your film and setting off your geiger counter at three feet you are probably safe.
@@FixOldCameras Just so everybody knows, I'm so new to all this stuff, well, you might as well call me dumb. So this box of lenses I just got needs to be separated so I can take what good ones there are apart and clean the center lenses up so they're usable. But yeah I was lost 2 minutes into the video, lol...
Most versions of this lens the front name plate has been glued. Seep a little isopropyl alcohol around the circumference of the name plate ring to soften the glue and the ring should come right out.
If you are having trouble with the lens mount screws, applying a little heat to the screw head with the tip of a soldering iron can help loosen them. Of course all the while making certain that the hot soldering iron does not come in contact with any plastic. Also make sure you are using a properly sized cross point screwdriver.
thanks that worked. but it would´ve been nice, if you would´ve mentioned it in the video. like that i worked for 1 hour to try to get it open. today . 5 seconds...
Do you think a newbie like me can do the repair without messing it up, or should I contact a pro-repair service instead ? Thanks for answering and your time.
The Canon 50mm 1.4 FD lens featured in the video has the first generation FD lens mount that enlisted the action of the rotating mount ring. The Canon 50mm 1.2 FD lens uses the second generation bayonet mount which has the user rotate the lens after aligning the breech-lock. The difference in the mounts could cause you a problem if you have never disassembled a Canon lens before. They are enough different that the video would not be suitable as an exact guide for the procedure on the Canon 50mm 1.2 FD.
Please help, I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I've watch the video multiple times, I've read all the comments and I can't figure out why I can't install the bridge mount correctly. I have the same model with the silver ring. - when I can make everything align on the bridge mount, including the pin and spring, the aperture only goes from f16 to f2.8, it won't go to f1.4. But if I remove the bridge mount all levers and aperture move freely and smooth - if I move the aperture to f1.4 and try to reassembly, it only goes from 1.4 to 2.8, it won't let me move any further, is just stuck - There is a blade that connects with the stop down lever, I had it on the wrong side of the lever and I fixed it, but that wasn't it. - I also tried to remove the silver cap and reassembly (bad idea) - I need to use an adapter for my camera, and at first it wouldn't let me screw in the adapter, it was all lose. The closest I got to a successful installation i managed to screw it in but I could only use f16, if I tried to adjust the aperture it would unscrew the whole lens from the adapter. But also, that f16 looked a hell lot like an f1.4.... - I tried moving the silver ring but that didn't do much either Can you pls help? I can email some pics/vid, or we can skype or something. I was wishing for this lens for so long and i haven't been able to enjoy it. Thanks in advance!
Obviously the linkages are not connecting as they need to be for proper function. Try modifying you technique to match the procedure outlined in the video as closely as possible. If what you do does not work properly, than you have to change your alignment slightly to get the proper connection. The key is to have the breech mount ring in the non locked position so you can turn the plate and still access the screws.
Fix Old Cameras - thanks for the response. I discovered that there's a piece attached to the silver ring that is getting in the way with a piece attached to the aperture ring. I tried flipping the silver piece, but it doesn't seem to fit... would it be possible to send you pics? I can't see on your vid how the piece on the silver ring should be. Thx!
Are you referring to the AE pin put in place at 4:03. Study the video carefully and position the linkages of the lens so they mesh with the position of the breech mount ring. Maybe if you could compare the lens to a working model it would help you.
No, I can get the AE pin aligned. After many attempts I figured out the correct position of the mount ring, however it still isn't closing properly, I can't get my adapter on, and the silver ring is not turning the way it should.
wow! i am trying to fix my camera since like 3 hours but cant figure out why the parts does not fit together anymore! now i saw, that this silver "plate" (you can see it here, th-cam.com/video/r3-_aZztQzY/w-d-xo.html it is the silver plate with a small hole in it... IT IS ON THE WRONG SIDE! it is on the left in at my camera! is this normal? how can i fix this!
Try applying hear from the tip of a soldering iron for a few minutes. Be very aware of the plastic on the lens... obviously contact with plastic and the hot soldering iron would be instant ugliness.
I know this is super old, 9 years at the time I'm writing this, but this was exactly what I needed to do with my
Canon FD 50mm f1.4 SSC. This was a perfect video for this operation. It was very helpful with all the right camera angles to show everything.
My lens is back together and working perfectly!
Thank you so much!
This is why TH-cam exists! This is the most helpful video I found in trying to repair my lenses. I can't wait to get started!
Hopefully it will be helpful.
Thanks for the video - great help in the process of repairing a "fully functional" 50mm 1.4 FD from ebay. Best regards!
+Adrian Petrila
Good to hear.
I hope I never have to do this with my beloved Canon f1.4 50mm. This video is amazing in detail and content. Well done. Cheers.
+Erich Haubrich Thank you and may your f1.4 50mm continue to work as it should.
One of the, if not THE best lens-repair-tutorials I have ever seen.
Thanks a lot for it.
Thank you so much for the high praise and for your interest in the FOC channel.
Bless you, bless your tools, and bless your heart.
Thank you, with your video I managed to repair my Canon f1.4 50mm!
i've never heard a more jaded voice in my life. Love it.
jaded... all in, beat, beaten, bleary, burn-out, bushed, done, drained, dragging butt, exhausted, fatigued, knackered, played-out, pooped, tapped, tired, tuckered, weary, wiped-out... Well there you go. It is all in the delivery. Do not tell anyone... but there is actually a well-spring of energy and optimism hiding behind that voice. Thanks for the fun comment. And thank you for your interest in FOC.
This is going to be a huge help! I've acquired one of these lenses, but the aperture is stuck open at f1.4. I've rebuilt the later FD mount lenses, but never one with the breach locking collar, and wasn't sure how to remove the mount.
exactly my model lens and issue! It's so nice to see a quality detailed repair.
Thank you for your comments and interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Is it totally necessary to remove the rear lens group when cleaning the aperture blades?
Thanks for teaching how to overhaul a camera lens.
Can you tell me what the two small screws on the side of the silver piece do? The piece that is part of the mount. The video is fantastic and very much appreciated. I just picked up an AE-1 with this 50 and I'm excited to restore the old beauty.
The 1.8 FD SC version is slightly different in construction but close to the 1.4 . I was able to remove the rear element in a similar fashion and clean the blades on one side. I did could not remove the blade assembly. This worked for me. Thanks.
Dan C Good to hear of your success.
Great video, its exactly my lens and problem. Thank you!
so very useful. hoping u make more videos for me about old lenses
Thanks a lot...so very helpful & nicely shot
+Laurence Dutton Your interest in FOC is appreciated.
everything look so easy to fix Thank you so much
Some are fairly easy particularly if you mix in a little persistence and patience... however some maybe might not be as easy as they might first appear, but they are doable.
What type of contact cleaner is that? Also, what might be the issues if the blades are stuck wide open - are there springs that control the aperture that can go faulty or have issues with these older breech mount FD lenses?
There is a spring, however the blades can stick open because oil migration as well. www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcameras
Affiliate disclosure: Please be advised that the link provided is an affiliate link and a small commission is received by the creator of this channel if you choose to make a purchase using this link. This adds no extra expense to your purchase. Your support of this channel is greatly appreciated. Thank you for making any purchases through the link on this channel.
If, when attempting this repair, the aperture mechanism does not work properly than the aperture diaphragm stopped down linkage was probably not positioned properly. The mount assembly will have to be removed again and reset taking care to keep the lever on the mount assembly to the right of the post connected to the diaphragm blade unit.
Hi, you make it look so simple. I noticed that you did not clean the lens elements nor do you use canned air. Any reason for that?
Each step is simple. Ideally the diaphragm unit would be dissembled too, that would not be simple. Hence the flush cleaning short cut. The cleaning of the lens elements if needed was not shown to facilitate a shorter video. Canned air is fine, Be careful not to invert the can and jettison the propellant in unwanted places. A hand blower does not produce as much pressure which at times can be insufficient for a stubborn spec making the canned air good choice if used carefully. Filtered compressed air is ideal as the pressure can be precisely regulated. The elements only need to be cleaned with lens cleaner and a micro cloth if their condition so warrants.
Jake Croop Please take the time and effort to remove the lens group. If you do not remove the elements with the flush cleaning method the dissolved oil and cleaner could end up fouling the lens group. Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
very informative and useful video, thanks!
Thanks for the info! Nicely done. One thing: My 50mm 1.4 has a snap-in front ring, not a threaded one.
Very professionally expalined, thanks. I have the lens and use it with sony a6000. I can see dust inside, wondering if I will be able to clean the lens using this guide.
Bobby Mathiwathanan It should help, depending on where the dust is trapped. Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Hi,
it seems that the diaphragm of my lens is locked at full aperture.
I would try to see if I can unlock it by my self .
It's absolutely necessary to unscrew the front lenses ?
Very nice. Thank you.
Thank you for your long time support and interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Thank you for your help in getting my aperture unstuck. It now operates smoothly. My problem now is that the F-stop apertures are not accurate. For example my F 22 aperture should close to a diameter of about 2.27 mm but is actually closer to 1 mm. Is there a way to re-calibrate the F-stop settings on the Canon FD 50mm 1 : 1.8 Lens? Thank you.
Brilliant video! Does anyone know how much this repair should cost at a camera shop? I don't have the tools or confidence to do this one myself so I'll have to take it in.
If you are interested in maybe getting your camera repaired you can go to -
phototronic.biz/
Does someone sell a "camera repair kit" which includes items like the friction mat, stopper, adjustable pin spanner, tiny tweezers and special glue, etc.?
Any idea how to remove the front name plate of canon fd 100/f2 and 35/f2? Thanks
I did exactly same as you did. But my one does not synchronize the aperture when I test it after inserting mount ring.
The aperture works well without mount ring..
Excellent video!I have a Pentax KM that had a battery leak in it.I removed the bottom plate to remove the battery and clean up the mess.Now the battery cover is stuck solid.Is there any way to remove it without destroying it?I could cut a slot in it and use a straight screwdriver,but then I'd have to replace it.Mechanically the camera works great and this is the only problem with it.
Try a solution of vinegar to break down the corrosion. Follow it with some penetrating oil. If you end up cutting a slot in the battery lid, due so carefully and you should be able to reuse the cover... albeit a little less pretty.
Thanks for video!!! May you help me to clean the front and rear element for a EF 50mm 1.8 MK1?
Interesting video. thank you. But I do have some uncomfortable feelings about the level clean working habits....
Great videos! thank you very much!!
Thanks for you interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Hello.
I´m trying to clean my lens but 2 of the 3 screws that holds the filter ring are stick. How can I unstick them?
Great series of videos, thanks a lot!
Guillermo
Make sure the tip of your screwdriver is in good shape so you can gain the maximum torque. Heat the head of the screw with the tip of a solder iron. Seep some isopropyl alcohol around the head of the screw.
Fix Old Cameras Thanks a lot :D
Thanks loads for this! Got one of these lenses really cheap because the aperture was stuck open, followed this tutorial and now it works fine! One question; I went a bit crazy with the contact cleaner and some seems to have got under the focus ring and messed with the grease in there... now the focus is quite stiff, slow and grainy. Any ideas how to smooth it out?
+Tom Box
The focus helical threads will have to be exposed so you can access them and seep alcohol onto the threads and work it through them. You could do a much more thorough job of cleaning if you disassemble the helical. But unless you have past experience dealing with the such an assembly, ABSOLUTELY do not take the helical apart while attempting to clean. You will play heck getting them back in the proper position. Once the threads are limbered up from the alcohol let it evaporate and recheck their function. If satisfied, you will then need to work a light grease into the threads. A synthetic lubricant is preferred.
i spent like half a day trying to do that
I removed the screws(on the side) from the aperture ring too. 2 steeel balls and a spring fell off. Damned, i dont know how the mechanic inside was before.
One is for the aperture click stops. The other might be for the AE lock. There is a spring and a hole the size of the bearing for that the spring drops into with the bearing resting on top. With the right technique it is not to difficult to install. Apply a little graphite grease to hold the bearing in place on when seating the ring.
Hi, thank you for sharing this awesome videos. I'm wondering where I could get replacement springs for the internals of old camera lenses. I have a old Minolta lens where the spring that opens the aperture has lost it's pull. Any clues to where I could find a replacement would be very helpful. Thanks!
It might be possible to rework the existing spring to increase tension. If the spring is broken in the middle than a substitute can be salvaged from another lens. It does not have to be a perfect match. Just try to find something similar in tension and compression. Sometime local hardware stores will caring small springs that might be a close match.
@@FixOldCameras awesome, thank you!
Hi Mike & Followers, I have an older Canon 50mm FD 1.8 S.C. lens. I looked at the 1.8 video and it describes the newer style FD lens. I am commenting here as my 1.8 SC is an original FD lens with the bayonet ring, disassembly for this 1.4 lens is mostly the same as the older style 1.8. NOW for my problem, my 1.8 SC has a completely stuck open diaphragm. This lens also has a locking lever on the back. With the bayonet ring released all the levers work smoothly, as does the aperture ring and the "auto" setting along with the "auto" setting release button. Yet the lens is wide open. The small lock lever on the back of the lens is on the white dot and will not move to the red dot. It sticks halfway. Is there any difference in the tear-down procedure due to the back locking lever? Are there any extra springs, or internal parts I need to be aware of?
As always if you'd like to actually see the lens and do a video on the older FD lenses with the locking lever I am open to sending it to you for a look. Thanks for all the great videos and your time in answering.
Tom Heckhaus
There are no springs that will detach during dissemble unless they are deliberately removed. It is more than likely that there is so much oil that has migrated onto the aperture blades that they are stuck firmly open. The breech mount lens disassembly is not substantially different than that of the bayonet mount. However you will see that you will need to rotate the breech ring slightly to access one of the mount screws. Upon reassembly the timing of the levers and linkage is virtually the same, but the positioning of the mount is a little different due to the two styles of mount construction. Although not ideal, on the older style lens, if the cause of malfunction is oil on the blades, you may be able to simply remove the front and rear lens groups and flush the blades until they release with aerosol contact cleaner. For additional information and options on repairs of your vintage photo equipment ... if you would like you may go to phototronic.biz. Thanks again Tom for your early and continued interest in FOC.
I've got a 1.8 sitting here, breech lock similar to your 1.4. I can't get the front name plate off. I'm using the large soft rubber corks. Is there anything I can dribble in the front to loosen it up? I'm tearing it apart to clean the blades I think something has seeped under the name plate and it's sticking. Thanks
Some penetrating oil followed by alcohol might do the trick, but of course any residue will have to be removed before attempting to again use the friction stopper. Patience and persistence is usually rewarded. Also you might set the lens face down on a heating pad for a bit. As a last resort carefully and evenly drill holes in the name plate ring to accept the tips of a spanner wrench.
I've got an unusual FD 50mm 1.8 lens (with a min aperture of f/16), and have no idea how to take out the front lens element so I can get to the stuck diaphragm. There are no notches for a spanner wrench, and the element seems to be firmly in place, so it's not falling out. Would I have to go around to the back to try to repair this lens?
The front name plate ring will generally loosen with the application of a small amount of isopropyl alcohol seeped around its outer edge. A stopper type of friction wrench will help grip the ring to pop it loose so it can be removed.
Hi, Great video. I'm sure you have been asked many times before. Where can I find a lens spanner like the one you use?.
They have been discontinued. At one time there was an fair knock off available sold under the model SP4.
@@FixOldCameras Thanks for getting back to me. Appreciate that.
Hello,
Thanks for vidéo ;)
I have a problem with mine : i can not unscrew the ring of the front lens!
Yet I have a "rubber pad" like yours, I already used on other lens smoothly.
Do you have a "trick" to unscrew it ?
When I look at the video, it seems that there is a "gray" material on the perimeter of your ring. Is it sticky ?
Thanks for your help;)
Patrick
It is held in place with glue. Soften the glue by seeping alcohol under the name plate. The name plate should then pop free when the friction pad is applied.
I need to remove the breech lock ring on a similar lens. Is this does by removing the two screws on the side of the ring ?
The two screws on the side of the breech lock ring remove the stop for the ring. In order to completely separate the breech lock ring from the rear lens plate the plate is removed. Generally three screws secure the rear plate on a Canon made FD lens. With the rear plate removed, remove the two stop screws and spin the breech lock ring.
Thanks, I'll try.Fix Old Cameras
Hello Again, any idea if this disassembly is the same for a Canon 50mm f1.4 FL? I have an FL with the breech-lock mount (As all were) and the aperture lever seems loose it flops around and does not operate the diaphragm. Thanks
It is slightly different but similar. Possible access thru the back of the lens will a bit different on the linkages. As you probably already suspect there might be disconnected spring or a jammed lever. The blades could also be stuck wide open.
Thanks again Mike, by the way I checked the Amazon link and I see you are an author. Good for you congratulations. As far as the lens. I ordered a complete Canon FL service manual online and am still waiting for it. I have discovered that there were two types of FL lenses. One had the A-M switch just behind the aperture dial on the lens front and the other type has the A-M switch mounted on the rear of the lens near the breech lock mount. A search on TH-cam turned up a guy dismantling a lens but his was the opposite of mine. AS soon as I get the FL manual I'll have a go. Thanks again and best wishes to you and your family for the Christmas Season and the NEW YEAR. Tom
Hi! Great videos, i have a question. I currently have an minolta MD W.ROKKOR 28mm 1:3.5 that has a stuck diaphram. I cant even move the external ring to make it open (its actually closed) Any idea? what can i do?
Sometimes the oil that might migrate on to blades can be so sticky that it "glues" the blades tight. It could also be an issue with the stop down lever mechanism. Do not force.
thank you! I "fixed" the problem, now the diaprham works and moves, however it does not longer "stick" on the right aperture, it does not have "stops" anymore when i turn it, its just smooth. Wich is not that good but i guess alteast now i can use the lense!
Good to hear you can use your lens again. You probably did not notice the click stop assembly and missed re-installation.
I have a Canon FD (not breech, new) 24mm f/2 with oily blades. I went in through the front and have removed all the glass down to the blades. I noticed that with the 50mm f/1.8 you removed the aperture assembly to clean it, vs the 50mm f/1.4 SSC, where you removed the rear glass and cleaned the blades in place. I would prefer to remove the assembly, and leave the rear glass in place. This one has 3 screws with a pretty heavy clear red external lock substance. Is it riskier to remove some FD aperture mechanisms as compared to others? Are you familiar with the 24mm f/2? Thank you for your amazingly helpful videos.
If you can remove all of the glass (the glass must be out of the housing before flush cleaning for the cleaner can get trapped between lens groups) the diaphragm unit can be left in place, just be aware of the flow of cleaner out oft he housing and try to limit how much of the cleaner flows through the focus helical.
Brilliant. Thank you =
Thank you for your support and interest in FOC.
can you provide me a link of a video for vivitar 28mm f2.5 kiron made. it has stuck aperture does not go beyond f 5.6 by the aperture ring moves till f22.
Thanks
Nothing yet.
Hi trying to fix my Canon 50mm f1.8 FD lens (old type similar to the f1.4 in video), and following your video in removing the front name plate ring, but its seems that its just rotating and not coming out? This lens has bever been serviced at all. Is there a possibility that the thread are off? what can be the work around for this stuck front name plate ring? this has been frustrating as thats the start of this lens CLA.
+Orland Punzalan
Might just be glued in. If the name plate is spinning about you probably broke the glue free. Try lifting it out with a plastic pry tool or just flip the lens and see if it falls out.
+Fix Old Cameras Hi Mate, i really thought that the plate has thread and it turned out its just glued. i managed to pry it with a thin spatula. thanks for this.
Hi My friend, i have reached this point. Managed to dis-assemble all and cleans the rest. Now its time to put back. But have some question on the position in this aperture lever. This is old type FD50mm 1.8. Is the arrow position in the right place?
If you are asking if the linkage of the back plate goes to the right of the linkage of the main assembly then proceed as shown.
awesome thank you so much!
I have a Canon FD 50mm 1.8 S.C. that will not stop down past f1.8, can you please do a video on that, thanks.
That issue for that lens is covered in a Fix Old Cameras video. It can be found in the lens repair playlist entitled Canon FD 1.8 Stuck Diaphragm
Hello, I have a problem with the reassembly.
after disassembly+cleaning, the aperture preset ring seems to have lost connection to the aperture itself. When you turn the ring and snap the aperture lever, it alwas closes to about f/8 no matter if the ring is set to 1,4 or 16. I am afraid I may have been moving the lever with the two metal sticks in the wrong direction, reulting in a clicky sound. After getting it back into the initial position, it didnt do anything anymore. is there any way to fix this or is this lens going to be a "fungus-free-glass" donor for my other 1,4s?
I am pretty sure I placed the bayonet and the connectors right...
The back plate linkage did not get connected correctly. You probably missed dropping the plate aperture link into the lens body U-shaped aperture linkage . It happens to those even experienced with this lens. Take the back off study the video frame that shows the linkage set up at time 4:17 on the video and try again. You will get it.
Hello, thank you for your reply, I disassembled the lens and checked if the linkage did get connected correctly. I think it did. Aditionally, the Problem appears even if you move the lever with the connected spring on the front side of the aperture assembly (without having the whole silver ring assembly mounted). It just doesnt close all the way to f/16. I have two 50/1.4 disassembled (both with oily aperture). One does close to f/16, and one does not. The one that closes properly has still some oil on the back of the blades, but now I am afraid to take the back part off :-/
If it would help, I can do a quick Video showing my problem. I am more of a Minolta guy, so I do not understand how the Canons mechanics exactly works. But having a 50mm 1,4s standing useless in my shelf three times made me try the fix :D
Check the aperture cam ring is in the proper position. There is just not that many things that can block the movement of the aperture blades. Maybe by proceeding forward with the other lens, by comparison, you will be able to see what is out of place in the malfunctioning lens.
Hello, Thank you for your encouraging help. I managed to find out my mistake using the third 50/1.4:: the lever with the two metal pins had been moved way over the point where it slides the small lock nose away and it got blocked behind it. However, the nose is so small that you barely notice it. Using a small screwdriver, I was able to push the lever base back into the correct position and let the nose snap back. Now I managed to repair all three 50/1,4 plus an 85 /1,8 (which is very very similar, how I noticed.)- all thanks to your Video. Nice!
Very good to hear of your multiple successful repairs. Your persistence certainly paid off.
I got a jupiter 8 50mm f2 that have the same problem. Can you show how to open it? Thank you.
The Jupiter-8 50mm or the Contax 50mm Sonnar, which is the lens the Jupiter-8 was apparently copied, could definitely be featured in a Fix Old Camera video. The Jupitar-8 50mm is solid metal, and contains few parts when compared to most other lenses of this type. It consists of the optical unit, including the diaphragm and the step-less aperture ring, and the main body, including the focusing ring. The two can be unscrewed from each other. The main body with the focusing ring can also be disassembled. Because of its simple construction, the entire lens rotates during focusing. Thank you for your interest and suggestion.
Fix Old Cameras Thank you for the reply. I already fix it using your method. Perfect, simple and easy. Thank you again :)
hay I have two fd lens lens one is a JCpenny and the other is osawa and the guy who sold it to me put on the wrong rear lens cap on both they put the canon brand and the cap is jammed on them ....... one of the lens i tryed the ply it off but it won't budge can I have some help?
+Adam Norpchen one of them is a 135mm and the other is 28-135mm
+Adam Norpchen Sometime just a little extra force will free the cap. Stressing only a little extra force. If the breach lock is not pressed in by the proper fit of the rear cap it will not want to turn to release. Look at a lens without the cap so you can see where the lock post is located then make an access hole. You can heat the tip of screw driver to melt through the plastic. If you try to drill a hole you might not be able to control the drill and cause inadvertent damage when you punch through the plastic.
1:27 Exactly this is what I do in my case occupy goes around the entire element tube lucky as it says in the video but is just where are the hongon Greetings
thx!!!!!!
You are welcome.
is this lens radio active?
It might be on the long list of thoriated (containing thorium oxide) lenses manufactured to minimize chromatic aberration and utilize lenses of lower curvature. As long as the lens is not fogging your film and setting off your geiger counter at three feet you are probably safe.
Cool, I forgot how to do it all ready...
Too funny! Thanks for your interest in FOC.
@@FixOldCameras Just so everybody knows, I'm so new to all this stuff, well, you might as well call me dumb. So this box of lenses I just got needs to be separated so I can take what good ones there are apart and clean the center lenses up so they're usable. But yeah I was lost 2 minutes into the video, lol...
hi. i tried to remove the front name plate, but it is soo damn tight. i dont get it off.. do you have any tips for me?
Most versions of this lens the front name plate has been glued. Seep a little isopropyl alcohol around the circumference of the name plate ring to soften the glue and the ring should come right out.
If you are having trouble with the lens mount screws, applying a little heat to the screw head with the tip of a soldering iron can help loosen them. Of course all the while making certain that the hot soldering iron does not come in contact with any plastic. Also make sure you are using a properly sized cross point screwdriver.
thanks that worked. but it would´ve been nice, if you would´ve mentioned it in the video. like that i worked for 1 hour to try to get it open.
today . 5 seconds...
Thank you for your comments and insight in to your difficulties with this repair. Also you interest in FOC is appreciated.
Is a Canon 50mm 1.2 FD similar to this ?
It is similar, but of course not identical.
Do you think a newbie like me can do the repair without messing it up, or should I contact a pro-repair service instead ?
Thanks for answering and your time.
The Canon 50mm 1.4 FD lens featured in the video has the first generation FD lens mount that enlisted the action of the rotating mount ring. The Canon 50mm 1.2 FD lens uses the second generation bayonet mount which has the user rotate the lens after aligning the breech-lock. The difference in the mounts could cause you a problem if you have never disassembled a Canon lens before. They are enough different that the video would not be suitable as an exact guide for the procedure on the Canon 50mm 1.2 FD.
Thank you, I check here in Houston and see if someone can help doing this repair. Many thanks for your answer.
Hopefully you can get it repaired reasonably. It is too nice of a lens just to be setting on a shelf collecting dust.
Please help, I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I've watch the video multiple times, I've read all the comments and I can't figure out why I can't install the bridge mount correctly. I have the same model with the silver ring.
- when I can make everything align on the bridge mount, including the pin and spring, the aperture only goes from f16 to f2.8, it won't go to f1.4. But if I remove the bridge mount all levers and aperture move freely and smooth
- if I move the aperture to f1.4 and try to reassembly, it only goes from 1.4 to 2.8, it won't let me move any further, is just stuck
- There is a blade that connects with the stop down lever, I had it on the wrong side of the lever and I fixed it, but that wasn't it.
- I also tried to remove the silver cap and reassembly (bad idea)
- I need to use an adapter for my camera, and at first it wouldn't let me screw in the adapter, it was all lose. The closest I got to a successful installation i managed to screw it in but I could only use f16, if I tried to adjust the aperture it would unscrew the whole lens from the adapter. But also, that f16 looked a hell lot like an f1.4....
- I tried moving the silver ring but that didn't do much either
Can you pls help? I can email some pics/vid, or we can skype or something. I was wishing for this lens for so long and i haven't been able to enjoy it.
Thanks in advance!
Obviously the linkages are not connecting as they need to be for proper function. Try modifying you technique to match the procedure outlined in the video as closely as possible. If what you do does not work properly, than you have to change your alignment slightly to get the proper connection. The key is to have the breech mount ring in the non locked position so you can turn the plate and still access the screws.
Fix Old Cameras - thanks for the response.
I discovered that there's a piece attached to the silver ring that is getting in the way with a piece attached to the aperture ring. I tried flipping the silver piece, but it doesn't seem to fit... would it be possible to send you pics? I can't see on your vid how the piece on the silver ring should be. Thx!
Are you referring to the AE pin put in place at 4:03. Study the video carefully and position the linkages of the lens so they mesh with the position of the breech mount ring. Maybe if you could compare the lens to a working model it would help you.
No, I can get the AE pin aligned. After many attempts I figured out the correct position of the mount ring, however it still isn't closing properly, I can't get my adapter on, and the silver ring is not turning the way it should.
wow! i am trying to fix my camera since like 3 hours but cant figure out why the parts does not fit together anymore! now i saw, that this silver "plate" (you can see it here, th-cam.com/video/r3-_aZztQzY/w-d-xo.html it is the silver plate with a small hole in it... IT IS ON THE WRONG SIDE! it is on the left in at my camera! is this normal? how can i fix this!
ok i got it!
Excellent to hear of your ultimate success.
I’m stuck on the first step because only one of the damn screws would come out...
Try applying hear from the tip of a soldering iron for a few minutes. Be very aware of the plastic on the lens... obviously contact with plastic and the hot soldering iron would be instant ugliness.
how come everyone else's FD 50mm is 1.4 when mine is only 1.8 what gives
Fun comment. Thank you for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
When you're livin' right, your 1.4 is a 1.2
I think it'd be easier to open the lens up from the front and popping the entire aperture assembly off.