I just watched this video. I'm about a year too late to help with the laptop problem, but here goes. Most laptops have a power control option on the USB ports that will shut the power off after a predefined time of no user interaction. The strange thing people don't realize is that means mouse or keyboard interaction, not USB communications. You can set the option to "Never" on most laptops. Great video!
Yes that's true. They also Microsoft also added something called Selective USB Suspend in one of their updates and that so causes issues. So not only do you have to turn off the power saving features and put them to Never, you also have to disable this additional setting as well. Bit of a pain
James, superb series of videos/tutorials. I bought a 2 in 1 3018 and watched several of your videos whilst awaiting delivery. When the kit arrived, I assembled the whole thing without reference to the (inadequate) assembly instructions. A few minor hiccups on connectivity and then up and running very quickly. A couple of tips I'd like to add: 1. Rinse/dry/clean/dry lube the screw rods (I had to do this retrospectively as I was so keen to get going). 2. When fitting the coupling (bit that connects the step motor to the screw drive) I had to dissasemble and create a tiny gap (two sheets of paper) to stop the coupling rubbing against the body of the motor - this fixed the problem of sticking/skipping due to drag. Your suggestion to use blue tape / mitre bond is brilliant and saved my sanity. The clamps are so badly designed. Thank you so much.
After a week of trying everything I could think of I found your video.$3=1 stopped my 4030V2 from cutting backwards in the X axis. Thanks for your great videos
An excellent series of videos James (I could have put this comment on any one of them!). No flannelling, BS or other unnecessary stuff, straight to the point and you make things very understandable. You're a natural educator, but I do appreciate the amount of work that must go into each video all the same. Thank you.
Thanks James Dean for creating this video. You've answered a couple questions that I'm having trouble with. 1, how to adjust the direction and depth of the spindle. 2, how to download the system onto my laptop. Basically, I've had my CNC3018 for a while. Downloaded it to another laptop. Now I have a new laptop and had to figure out how to download the system control to the new one. Now I can go set things up and see how things go. You are a Great Help with Sharing Your Knowledge. Thanks again for everything and wish me luck that I do things right, lol.
I don't have my machine yet (comes in today hopefully) But I'm SO glad I found your channel. I'm binging your videos in preparation for its arrival and it makes me feel lot less un-easy about getting into this since you have so many videos for the entry level folks like us!
re comms cutting out part way through a job - I found that problems sometimes came and went with Win updates, and the 340 drivers have a bad reputation with windows. I took to checking whether my CNC was still working every time there was a win update, so I could roll back before the time limit. I now use a raspberry pi. I have always used candle as it is what arrived with my 3018. Candle for the raspberry pi has defeated many linux fluents (of which I am definitely not one) - but there is a port of candle for the pi out there on the web, and even in my noobery I got it working. As to recognising a comms failure (it was always that the driver had lost connection to the 340, so was unrecoverable without an unplug/replug, which resets candle) - typically the symptom was that the spindle was left spinning but all the axes stopped moving. The key here is that GRBL has not detected an error, so has left the spindle on while it waits for more commands. The key to recovering is that BEFORE doing anything you look in the Gcode log to see where it got to, then you know the current position of the axes (because the lack of error condition means GRBL successfully executed the last command it heard). Write down the latest position in the Gcode (NOT the current displayed position, because the actual position never made it back to the PC because the comms broke), and replug the USB. When candle comes back to life, it will consider itself to be at 0,0,0, but you can move it back to "real" 0,0,0 using the "latest point" you wrote down above (basically G0 then negative the numbers you wrote down, but be careful not to move "through material" - best to move Z upwards to a clearance height, then X&Y, then Z). Then zero the axes and you've got a shot at continuing the job. Ideally edit down the Gcode to omit all the moves it has already made (but obviously not Motor control / other settings) - this is only if you understand the Gcode well. FWIW I have a switch in my spindle feed, so I can switch off the spinning spindle while I'm investigating where it had got to.
Perfect video. Thanks for sharing. Your videos are really eye-openers! Am I wrong when I say that 90+ % of the people who buy a simple CNC machine (because they are beginners, just like me I hope in a couple of weeks) don't realize the complexity and all the things that can go wrong between buying the CNC machine and getting it up and running and having made the first design in wood or any other material. I am curious how many 3018 machines have been sold during the last few years and what percentage of them is still used by the first buyers. You deserve many more subscribers and a lot of patreons or other people who'll give a financial contribution to keep your channel running.
Nearly no one who bought the machines are using them. CAM is too hard for most people. Combine this with needing a real CNC machine setup... with no instructions? It's bad.
@@phil2082 That's an interesting statement. Where did you get any numbers from? What happened to the not used CNC-machines? Are they given away, sold, only getting dusty and/or waiting for a better life? I haven't bought a (mini) CNC yet, I'm still hesitating.
@Hans de Groot I was given mine by someone who inherited it from a friend that passed away. It sat around for half a decade. It takes almost as much to do a setup on one of these machines as on a full sized CNC mill. It is very difficult to use these. It is absolutely possible, and worth it to learn, but very few people spend the time to learn, because the resources are honestly not great to learn this stuff. People learn in different ways, and you sort of have to remember everything to get a part started on one of these... as well as pay attention to detail on everything, every time. I am a mechanical engineer with a CNC background. I knew maybe ten people, out of about 300 engineering students, who knew cnc well enough to make anything... let alone make things quickly at a production level speed. If you want to get a CNC machine, you have to learn the elements of a CNC setup: Tool holding, work holding/clamping, zero in X/Y, zero in Z, and how to use both the CNC controller software as well as how to CAM your own 3d model. That last one is a lot more difficult than the rest. Downloadale gcode files exist for these machines, but this is nothing like a 3d printer, where your slicer software does what CAM software does.
Whe I was training to become Tool Maker I was taught the formula tp calculate RPM is (Cutting Speed (Find out for whatever material you are using im meter/min)=Pi(3.14 or 22/7)*D(Diameter)*N(RPM)/1000)
@ 6:45 Machine not connecting to your computer. I found that if I have Easel open in any tab, it connects to my 3018 and blocks any atempt to connect with UGS. So when i use easel to generate the cut-file, I need to close the tab, and then connect the machine USB cable, and then I can connect to it with UGS.
Good stuff! I was one of the unfortunate customers who received a model where the motor was on the left so I was lost on how to switch this around. I also had spindle problems with certain programs. One would only allow the spindle motor to run and none of the other axis, the other would allow everything but the spindle. So I decided to move onto the laser. I quickly realized I got the more powerful laser that doesn't have the proper connection on the board itself so I will need an external power supply to get it working. I've revisited this machine a few times over the past few years but never really have the time to troubleshoot it. Your videos help immensely but I find it a little distracting how you use different programs for certain settings then bounce into another. But at least I have a general idea on what to look for. Maybe I'll get this thing running yet!
In this video I do bounce about because it's problem solving but usually I just stick to Easel and UGS 👍 hope you get there with it but let me know if you have any issues
Wow! Working my way through your awesome tutorials. Your efforts and hard work are appreciated. Hoping your contributions are up. They definitely have value. I'll definitely be contributing towards my future education from James Dean Designs.
You forgot a big one, people not using ER collets correctly. I have seen plenty of videos here on YT where people insert the bit into the ER collet, then stick it in the spindle and fastening it with the ER nut while the bit is already in the collet. ER collets have to be clicked into the ER nut first (without the bit), once the collet is clicked in place you can insert the bit and screw the lot onto the spindle (or even better screw the collet and nut on the spindle lightly first, insert the bit and then tighten it down).
My TwoTrees ttc450 was freezing up randomly. I soldered a 10 pico farad capacitor from each terminal on the motor to the motor housing. I haven't had the problem since. I always had to do this for my rc cars & airplanes. I figured it would help here, too.
Great video as always, very helpful! I'd just like to add that when routing out a profile it's always best with small bits to run multiple paths and drop down say 0.5mm each step. Harder materials the lower the step amount. It takes longer but your bits will thank you (and no I don't work for Manscaped lol!!). I have a 3018 pro but will definitely be building my own rather large CNC machine after scavenging some expensive steppers, just need to get the trinamic 5160 drivers built up...
Nice video James….!!!!! Now, which one do you think is the better…. If you do one video comparing the 2 machines, pro’s and con’s….. that would be awesome 🤩
Both are great, I think they have different strengths. They will both more or less do the same thing but I think the FoxAlien is better if you;'re looking to do laser work and the ProverXL is better if you want to do heavy CNC work like machining metal
Why my gantry not moving continuously but only single times for few unfix distance after sending moving command from Ugs and then in few attempts it gets disconnected until I reset the arduino, or software? I think it's because of EM interference create by motor but not sure since it showed be immune to these EM noise as it's made for these purpose.
Thank you. This video help me with one of my issues. I am new to CNC and purchased the 3018 pro. I also add the 3040 Y-Axis Extension Kit for 3018 Series CNC Router and spoilboard. Do I need to change any setting. I can not find any information. I am using Vectric Cut2D desktop and Candle (Grblcontrol).
You don't need to adjust any settings in Vectric as that works on the material size. But you may need to update you $131 GRBL setting ti reflect the new length of your bed
James I just installed UGS to run my machine ( 3018 pro) to replace the gcode sender that came with the machine ( grbl control). the ugs loads and will communicate with the machine but has a fault. the fault is that when I click on the jog buttons the program will not always send the command to the machine. other times it will send the command and the machine does as the command requests. in addition the machine ( while running the program code as sent ) will run a small portion of the code and then stop. I have run code using the grbl control and have not had any problems ( some of the buttons do not function , and never have zero z and zero xy) I have noted your use of the ugs and though to replace the grbl control with ugs to help me get away from some of these problems. Anything you can do to help?
Another great video James. Once again very informative. Can I just point out something that I've not seen in any of your tutorials ( though I could be wrong) , VREF settings for the stepper motors. I was having an issue with my 3018 constantly loosing steps. When I checked the drivers (woodpecker board) they were only putting 400ma to the steppers. Since adjusting them to the proper setting for a nema 17 the issue has gone.
@@JamesDeanDesigns It would be great if you do cover it at some point. Took me a bit of research to get there. With your fan base, and ability to produce easy to follow tutorials, I'm sure it would be appreciated 😀
You mention exporting the design from Easel to Candie to do the cutting. I can't work out how to export from Easel. How is this done? I am a complete newbie with a 3018. First test carve worked fine. Since then, every attempt to carve from Easel has failed. I set the X Y Z points as instructed. When I start to carve, the machine lifts the bit, moves over and does the correct X,Y path but never lowers the bit to the work surface. Could this be caused by the bug you describe at 12:00?
Hi tommc49 i got the opposite problem my bit goes too deep . But to export Gcode as follow: Once done with all stages with your design > under MACHINE tab > advanced (at the bottom) > Generate G-code. that's all!
@@maximekone1769 Thanks, I have figured that out recently and have been using the Universal Gcode Sender to do the actual cutting since I heard on another YT channel that the Easel software has/had a bug affecting Z axis movement. (Perhaps it has been corrected, I don't know.) I also found that the bed of my machine was not perfectly level as some of the screws in the brackets holding the table to the rods were not equally tightened.
@@maximekone1769 Actually, I just posted that today. don't know it was time stamped. In general now I find that this machine has so much vibration, it is a maintenance practice to tighten every screw about once a month. I was surprised on how many have loosened up.
Thanks for this playlist! Just bought ant assembled my 4030 and the 6060 extension. Can you please make a video on how to change the homepoint (in candle) and some of the features of Candle? Thanks again!
My cut started ok on my 3018 pro but then the spindle was a little too high after 2 minutes not touching the stock. All parts were running but the spindle was hovering over the stock. I stopped the project after that and here I am thinking what potion I should do next to fix the problem. It was cutting ok a few days ago I change the the cut depth to cut from 2 mm to 1 mm.
I guess my problem may be the g code itself. I keep having the same shut off problem at the same time into the cut, approximately. Trying to surface the spoil board has become insane. I've tried it with the laptop more than once. With the offline controller more than once. Which tells me it's not the laptop or the controller. I've used both the laptop and the controller at different times with an IO -T relay. I started with the IO-T relay and thought that might be the problem. Once I took the IO-T relay out of the circuit it seemed to work one time through but then the stopping problem returned on the next pass. I know I'm going to end up on the phone with Foxalien and just want to beat my head on something. Is it possible that some some part in the big control box is screwed up? On an unrelated topic, when using the offline controller it's limited to jogging 10mm at a time. That's very slow when you have to move 25" / 636mm. I would just send it back but I really don't want my laptop in the shop if possible. I should say my machine is the Vasto xl.
I began setup of my Sainsmart 3018 and noted that the metal table moved forward to a point where it was maxed out and it "bumped" against the front several times before retreating. I am concerned this may damage the machine and want to know how I set the machine up to avoid such mishaps. Thank you.
Awesome vids James. I have a problem with candle. I have a prover 4030 and when I am ready to machine the spindle in the visualize doesn't move. All the videos I watch it shows where it is cutting. Hope u can help. Great job again. I have learned a lot from u.
one issue i had with the 3018 pro max all metal is that the UGS/Candle keeps on issuing error messages during milling until it stops milling completely. it is accompanied by the the machine missing steps. the offline controller also freezes up when the spindle motor turns on. i thought it was a connection issue initially. i contacted the seller about the problem and they cant offer a solution. i searched here in youtube, reddit and several other forums and no one had the same problem. eventually i found out these issues were rooted on one problem - poor power supply regulation. a simple addition of a 10000uF capacitor solved all the issues.
Hi James, great videos and thanks a lot too...I have a bit of a problem with a mini CNC machine from Banggood, its model is a 1419. Now I'm using Easel to simply generate a 20mm circle pocket I want cut. That's all fine. Am using UGS as my platform for importing my easel file. It all works fine until its about half way though the job or so and just looses connection. My green comms LED stops flashing, so no comms obviously. my fix is I need to re-connect, sometimes at that stage it resets itself to zero. I have to start again. Sometimes when I get it to try to go to 'zero' it goes the other direction..odd I know. I see that the control board is really an Arduino Nano , if that makes any sense to you. Anyway, when the unit isent actually doing any work and at idle, comms is fine...Could it be power, lack off that is . ?
This issue can be one of many things sadly and it's purely a process of elimination until you find the cause. I doubt a lack of power is the issue but there is always a chance. The reason I say I doubt it is because a lot of people upgrade to a bigger PSU anyway and still have issues. Sleep mode, Selective USB Suspend, USB cable are usually the most common but I've been having an issue recently when using my vacuum on the dust shoe. It's generating static which is causing it the drop connection 😕 as I say, it can be one of many things making it hard to resolve
my machine does some random movement in the middle of a job. It always does a random movement but not always the same. So, the error (random movement) always differs. The job is saved on a card so there is no USB-connection while running the machine. any idea?
I got a great first cut. Now anything I try the spindle runs above the material. I have no clue what I inadvertently changed. How can I fix it? (Using easel.
please help. I just bought a cnc pro + 15w. Im looking to engrave birch but the option is not there in my listings. Is there anyway that i can add this on laserGRBL. thanks
Hi I have a cnc3018pro and with the laser it works perfect but the router does work the x,y,z the router does not spin and in ugs I create macros to turn on and off the spinner but the x,y,z axes do not move and the same happens with candle. What I’m doing wrong. I have an hp laptop with 24 gigs of ram.
I am new to CNC Machines and I am having problem with my CNC 3018 Pro it is does not do the cut where it meant to be. for example my design in the centre of the work sheet but it always do it on left side and half of it can not be done it comes outside of the working area and sometimes it comes like a reflection. can someone help please.
I have a 6060 running gSender. I can see movement on the screen when I manually jog the router but the router just makes a clicking noise and no movement. Any thoughts. I have a 19 second video of the issue.
3018 prover offline controller can’t clear or reset error code 2 machine stopped in the middle of a job and now i can’t connect to candle again machine was running of of candle on desktop at the time when it happened
Hi. Great video. I still can't get mine to connect. When I click connect, it says ALARM and a code comes up that read "check limits" An unexpected command was completed by the controller. Any help?
I bought a 2 in 1 CNC and laser machine, laser works fine but having issue with the CNC... its uses candle software and connects but the x and y axis movement is very little when i press the arrow buttons it moves like less than 1mm, even the z axis moves very little
Hey guys, I have a PROVerXL 4030 and I’m running UGS as my G-code sender. I’m keep getting an error code of “(Alarm 1) hard limit has been triggered.” But it happens when in the middle of a project when my spindle isn’t anywhere needs any of the limit switches. Anyone have experiences with this?
The biggest issue I have with my 3018 Pro is "ME". I did something stupid and was moving the X and Y axis 100mm and clicked the Z button by mistake, oops. The next revision of Candle should be to disallow moving the Z axis when the travel distance is set higher than 10mm. I don't know if UGS addresses this issue as I have been unable to get UGS to work on my old Windows XP machine that I have dedicated as the CNC controller.
Its what I hate about Candle. In UGS you can set separate measurements for the Z axis to avoid that issue. I thought it could run on XP but I could be wrong
@@JamesDeanDesigns I think it can but I'm having an issue of it finding Java even though I installed the last version that runs on win32. I will continue trying but until I get it working or try my hand at writing my own version I'll just have to be careful.
@@optikon2222 ever completely unwound a spiral cut aluminum coupler? hell i even destroyed a nice set of gerwah couplers. i couldnt stand the pussy level of power the original motors came with so i upgraded to 93 oz in steppers and modified those making them closed loop. when my machine is holding a position i dont care how strong you are you arent moving an axis. only now i have to reset the motor as it will go into error when it bottoms out from hitting the wrong button in candle.
I had to turn off my time out on my USB port on my laptop. Some of my USB ports were turned off but the one I was using was turned on (active) and part way through a print the laser stopped.
Great video James, for newbies but I have a different issue. My spindle after completing a job and going to home, the spindle keeps running. It won't respond to candle or even after powering off the 3018 SE-V2. As soon as I power it up the spindle starts. Any ideas?? Most appreciative
If you have press the reset button and it's still going then possibly a blown MOFSET that may not be controlling the power correctly. Unless you're comfortable soldering, this usually means a new control board unfortunately.
Item number 10: Power settings disconnecting job This was a running issue with my 3d printer. Windows 10 and 11 has hid these settings in multiple places. Windows 11 cares more about carbon emissions than functionality of the machine. Windows 11 not only has power settings, but settings for each individual USB device and USB hub in the device manager, that you must find. You have to right click the device, hit "properties", then find a tab with a power setting that says something like "Allow windows to turn off this device to save power" and disable this. I have had this reverse itself after something as simple as restarting my computer. It is genuinely bad.
Hi my 3018 is printing wrong dimensions for example a 2x2 cm square is printed 2.5x2.5 cm what can i do to fix this issue should i calibrate the machine Thank you
After watching several of your videos, I am still struggling with my CNC Router. I tried sending you an e-mail in hopes that I would get a response, but I have not received one yet - this might be the only place I can put my question/problem that I am having, I guess... My email goes into detail but now I don't have the email to copy & paste it, because I sent it directly to you from your website's 'contact me' button. However, when I am using my CNC, everything will be going fine for the FIRST cut, the Z-Axis will go down, cut the material (wood mainly) make the cut etcetera, and then when it goes back to continue (either the same area or moving to the next cut) the Z-Axis will move upwards and not come back down to touch the material, and if it does it barely touches it or makes very shallow cuts. I have tried running the same project over and over, moving the Z-Axis down as far as the material will allow for, but still I run into the same problem where the Z-Axis will go up and not come back down again. I don't know a whole lot about this stuff (which is why I emailed you, figuring it would be an easier/faster way of communicating) and I was really hoping for some sort of guidance as to how I can make my CNC go DOWN and continue going DOWN so it will actually cut a project the way I want it to be cut. Thanks, Sarah.
Love your videos sir very informative and much appreciated. Whenever I create a design in UGS itself and send the design, the gcode that is generated for that design is defaulting to a spindle speed of 0. How do I fix this so that when it is created it defaults to at least ON? Also to note this does not happen when the gcode is imported from easel.
Thank you very much for the kind words. I have never actually used the design features within UGS so to be honest I am not 100% sure. There is usually somewhere to change from manual to automatic spindle and you will need to have it on automatic
thanks for the tips James but I have this problem. I tried to use limit switches and try to use the settings on my ugs. the problem came up when i finished to see the limit switches that it worked i tried to home the machine and then the machine stopped with the ALARM. Goes also with the candle, it showed the ALARM. Everything froze. I tried pressing the reset button on the board but nothing happened. Can you help me on this?
James, very good videos for us new to the game. I still have issues 😭. I am using cnc 3018 pro, candle software and easel to make my design. Nothin difficult just a deer plunge. I downloaded it,opened it in candle and nothing works when I send. Just says processed three times and sent for everything else. Please help,been working on getting this thing to run for weeks to no avail
Hi there! I just got a 3018 pro and i have some issues with him,maybe you have some idea whats happend! 1. I charge the PCB file from Flatcam and most time CNC start running without turning on the spindle...i must stop,abort and try few times until works. 2. The software is GRBL Controller and last time didnt show the PCB,only the milling lines adn i couldn't set the 0 for Z...i got in log the message ok but nothing happends. 3. i dowload "Candle" but in candle work only the spindle when i press the button,the axes not works...i didnt try to charge the pcb to see if it running or not If you have some tips or ideea what i can make,please help!
James, just found your channel. Thank you for all that you are doing for the community at large. Great information for beginners and, especially in trouble-shooting issues. Quick question or two - I notice you have your cnc's in housings. Is this for noise and dust, or simply to keep the machines clean? Also, I'm looking at a small bed cnc - 17x24" - what cnc's do you recommend in this size?
Thank you 😊 I have them in enclosures for all of those reasons you mentioned. Minimises noise, stops dust getting out and also stops dust/debris getting in when not in use. Also when using the laser I have an extraction fan to get rid of the smoke. In terms of recommendations its a bit of a middle size you're after you can either loom at the Sainsmart ProverXL 4030 and buy the extension kit, or a Yorahome Silverback which is 24x24.
Got the USB thumb drive from Sainsmart, but it didn't include the COM port driver file. Plugged my newly built 3018 PROVer MX-3 into my Windows 10 PC and the XYZ axes (as well as spindle power) seem to be responsive using the Druefel manual controls in the software, however, Windows (or my PC) don't seem to show the CNC router as a device, or a COM port with the device attached to the COM port (it shows COM 1 - but no 3018 PROVer). Do I still need to try and find a COM port driver file and install in this case?
Hi Sid, The MX3 is mach based as opposed to GRBL so I'm not 100% sure if its the same to be honest but if its all working then thats a good sign. You may be better off posting in the Sainsmart group on Facebook as there are quite a few MX3 users
Please help me understand how a USB hub can be used. The USB cable from the 3018 to the laptop carries power and the code, correct? So if I plug that into a hub, how does the code get from the laptop to the 3018? Do I need a second cable to from laptop to hub and then cable to 3018? Or, do I plug the hub into the laptop and then the 3018 into the hub? Thanks for are reply.
The USB hub will just display like a normal USB cable. Its just like using an extension lead. The difference is with it having its own power supply its a little more consistent and less chance of drop out which is what can cause it to disconnect
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for replying promptly. So you plug the hub into the laptop and plug the cable from the 3018 into the hub. Then the hub supplying the power to the 3018 and the gcode is passing from the laptop, through the hub to the 3018. Do I have that correct?
How do you laser engrave on acrylic. Mine goes straight through to the wood without leaving on mark on the plastic., Can you advise what i am doing wrong pleeeeeeese
Unfortunately you can't really engrave on acrylic directly. You need to apply something to the surface in order to catch the laser. Tape, marker, paint all work
I have the FA CL 6560 and when I adjusted the GRBL settings for the movement in the x and y axis something else got changed. As a result my stepper motors for x and y will stall out and any movement above 1260 mm/min. I cant seem to find the problem. Any help will be apprieciated. Thank you and keep up the good work!
You could just reset you GRBL settings to be safe and start from scratch. To do this you type $RST=$ and hit enter. Alternatively you would need to go through all of your settings individually and compare them to the defaults to find the one that caused the issue
my x, y, and z axes go in the opposite direction and the spindle tries to come out from the front of the machine. Is there a fix in g-code?? or how do I reverse direction of axes??
Please Help... My 3018 pro power supply tripped the breaker a few times. So I plugged it into an outlet with a higher out breaker. Now it does nothing and doesnt trip the breaker on the one I originally plugging into. Im not electrical savy, any idea what happened? Appreciate the help and thank you for all your help videos. There is pretty much no support for the Annoytools 3018 Pro.
It's a case of finding the fault. I suspect you may have blown your power unit. This is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to replace at a cost of around $15.
I got the direction of the axes cleared up, but new problems persist. X and z axes are quiet and move at normal speed. My y axis sounds like someone driving fast with emergency brake on. The y direction is also very slow. I have the extension kit -- got it from Amazon as it wasn't available from Sainsmart yet. Doesn't work any better with extensions. Six months of having this Genmitsu and still have not been able to carve anything. Any help would be appreciated.
Either something is binding or not aligned correctly or perhaps you GRBL settings have been changed by accident (it can happen without you knowing). Check you $100 and $101, they should be the same value
What do I do if the cutting motor just keeps pulsing and not actively spinning up to speed meaning I can hold and stop it with my hand. The red light at the back also just blinks like its giving and losing power at the same time. Is this a board issue and if so where can I buy the boards?
Could be a bad connection so check that first. Also sometimes if the speed is set too low then it can pulse because it is not sending enough power to run the spindle correctly. But if all that is ok then yes it sounds like a board problem. You can pick them up off Amazon, ebay, aliexpress etc. Just search GRBL control board or 3018 control board
I just put my genmitsu 6060 together and when i move my xmotor by turning the wheel every couple of inches it makes a grinding noise can you help thanks.
Sometimes the wheels can have flat spots which adjusts the pressure on the wheels, but that more like a jerk than grinding noise. It might be something like the backlash nut or spring catching 🤔
great content. i have issues with my 3018. the design always cut mirrored. can you please help me with that? or is it the $3 problem also. thanks for enlighment
I have a Vecor 3018 and the following problem. When controlling with the offline GRBL controller, i.e. without a PC, the cutter moves diagonally a few centimeters down to the right when canceling or finishing a job and also the cutter moves down in Z direction below the height of the home position. So into the material, which is not so good. The spindle also switches off. Does anyone know this and is it due to the firmware?
So this sounds to me like it is post processor related. The post processor creates your gcode but also inserts specific things for the start and end of the job. Not sure what software you are using but if its Carveco or Vectric you need to make sure you select the GRBL post processor. There are lots of similar ones but this is the safest
Thanks for the reply. I‘m using Easel. I haven’t selected any post or preprocessor. I will check that. But the issue also appears with demo files on the offline controller where I haven’t done any editing.
hello, Best channel I have found for cnc info. I have one question, What bit, spindle speed and feed rate should be used for aluminum?? I have the 3018 pro. I have not broken a bit but the bit chatters and goes out of path.
3018s are not really designed for aluminium but essentially if you're getting chatter you either need to reduce the depth per pass or slow the speed down. My first choice would be depth of pass
Thank you so much for all your help a few months ago when I was setting up my fox alien 4040 - XE. My machine has been running fine for a few months.When I try to home my device and it hits the switch on the left side wall coming in it starts to jerk and will not stop unless I shut off the machine. Do you think it could be that a motor is going bad or a switch? Any help would be much appreciated!
It might be your limit switch not making contact. The easiest way to test is press the home sequence then manually press the limit switch with you finger. If the machine stops then its working, but if it doesn't then you may have a faulty switch.
I have a similar problem. Haven't found a good answer for it yet. The limit switches work fine unless I try to home it-- then, I have to hit the emergency stop because it won't stop with the limit switch. I know this sounds crazy, but it happens every time.
Great video, as usual James. My problem is, everything works fine, cuts fine (mind you still on simple shapes). Thing is, it cuts on the work piece, upside down. When finished, of course, the shape is cut and I just turn it. But just wondering why. Is it a matter of changing the $3 line? Cheers Peter C.
That's probably it. As the 308 move the bed the movements are kind of opposite, so clicking forward should actually move the bed towards you. $3 is more than likely the cause
Hi , i have set up my 3018 pro and all seems ok but, when i go to test my x + y i have the issue of them juderring and not moving correctly. I carried out some testing by removing the power to x and y worked fine and visa versa.....have you had this issue and is there a fix
That is odd. There is always the chance your power supply is not strong enough which may explain why it runs better when you disconnect one motor. If its only rated for a few amps you may want to get a more powerful one.
I just ordered the powered hub. Unfortunately couldn't through your link due to there being Amazon here in Sweden. Nice information for newbies like myself.
Hi james one other possibility,I use a TP internet connection it plugs into 13amp socket in my workshop and sometimes it’s not the best signal and drops off Great tips there james thanks for your time and effort’s cheers
I will have suggestion about driver, i had problem with stoping work in middle of work and after everything figured out it was driver problem it was 2011 year developed, i found new one latest 2019 and it fixed connection problems
I notice when you are adjusting the guiderails, you rotate the lead screw manually. Is this necessary, or can I have my machine jog to the loosened side?
Could possibly be something to do with the driver chips on the control board if they have been knocked or damaged. It may also be something to do with your connection. Unfortunately it is usually a case of trial and error to find the solution
I experience misalignment after bit changes. I’ve tried both changing the bit with the spindle on and removing the spindle entirely, but the result is always misaligned. Any idea why this happens, and how do you change bits during a project?
Your videos are excellent. I was wondering if you have seen a way to control a cnc3018pro with an Android or Apple tablet? I have adapters from usb to usbC.
Okay, so I was using my laptop Windows 11 to run my 4040 xe and easel pro for my software. It was stopping in one spot an literally couldn't go any further so I gotta hold of easel. They done a remote session, he turned off some hard limits. Okay, well, that didn't fix the problem. Because later I found out it was actually my laptop. The USB port was corrupted. Now that I've got a new laptop and everything's working good. It's starting to bounce around at the back of the machine behind my project and I'm not sure what's going on. It literally went to the bottom of my project yesterday and dug a bunch of my waistboard . Do you have any clue what could cause my project to get Almost all the way done, and then start bouncing around Didn't me wasting A8 hour project? I'm not sure if it is the the 3 d downloads im chosing or something wrong with my machine
I just watched this video. I'm about a year too late to help with the laptop problem, but here goes. Most laptops have a power control option on the USB ports that will shut the power off after a predefined time of no user interaction. The strange thing people don't realize is that means mouse or keyboard interaction, not USB communications. You can set the option to "Never" on most laptops. Great video!
Yes that's true. They also Microsoft also added something called Selective USB Suspend in one of their updates and that so causes issues. So not only do you have to turn off the power saving features and put them to Never, you also have to disable this additional setting as well. Bit of a pain
James, superb series of videos/tutorials. I bought a 2 in 1 3018 and watched several of your videos whilst awaiting delivery. When the kit arrived, I assembled the whole thing without reference to the (inadequate) assembly instructions. A few minor hiccups on connectivity and then up and running very quickly. A couple of tips I'd like to add: 1. Rinse/dry/clean/dry lube the screw rods (I had to do this retrospectively as I was so keen to get going). 2. When fitting the coupling (bit that connects the step motor to the screw drive) I had to dissasemble and create a tiny gap (two sheets of paper) to stop the coupling rubbing against the body of the motor - this fixed the problem of sticking/skipping due to drag. Your suggestion to use blue tape / mitre bond is brilliant and saved my sanity. The clamps are so badly designed. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped and glad you are up and running
After a week of trying everything I could think of I found your video.$3=1 stopped my 4030V2 from cutting backwards in the X axis. Thanks for your great videos
Glad it helped 👍
An excellent series of videos James (I could have put this comment on any one of them!). No flannelling, BS or other unnecessary stuff, straight to the point and you make things very understandable. You're a natural educator, but I do appreciate the amount of work that must go into each video all the same. Thank you.
Thank you. Was so frustrated. I did what you sad and removed the offline controller and was able to connect straight Away... you are a lifesaver
Thanks James Dean for creating this video. You've answered a couple questions that I'm having trouble with. 1, how to adjust the direction and depth of the spindle. 2, how to download the system onto my laptop. Basically, I've had my CNC3018 for a while. Downloaded it to another laptop. Now I have a new laptop and had to figure out how to download the system control to the new one. Now I can go set things up and see how things go. You are a Great Help with Sharing Your Knowledge. Thanks again for everything and wish me luck that I do things right, lol.
Glad its helped 👍
Thank you , my 3018 was printing inverse and backwards you're video helped be change my $3 correctly . Its working great now
You are the BEST!!! You solved my spindle not coming on issue in the first 20 seconds of the video. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
I don't have my machine yet (comes in today hopefully) But I'm SO glad I found your channel. I'm binging your videos in preparation for its arrival and it makes me feel lot less un-easy about getting into this since you have so many videos for the entry level folks like us!
Thank you 👍
re comms cutting out part way through a job - I found that problems sometimes came and went with Win updates, and the 340 drivers have a bad reputation with windows. I took to checking whether my CNC was still working every time there was a win update, so I could roll back before the time limit. I now use a raspberry pi. I have always used candle as it is what arrived with my 3018. Candle for the raspberry pi has defeated many linux fluents (of which I am definitely not one) - but there is a port of candle for the pi out there on the web, and even in my noobery I got it working.
As to recognising a comms failure (it was always that the driver had lost connection to the 340, so was unrecoverable without an unplug/replug, which resets candle) - typically the symptom was that the spindle was left spinning but all the axes stopped moving. The key here is that GRBL has not detected an error, so has left the spindle on while it waits for more commands.
The key to recovering is that BEFORE doing anything you look in the Gcode log to see where it got to, then you know the current position of the axes (because the lack of error condition means GRBL successfully executed the last command it heard). Write down the latest position in the Gcode (NOT the current displayed position, because the actual position never made it back to the PC because the comms broke), and replug the USB. When candle comes back to life, it will consider itself to be at 0,0,0, but you can move it back to "real" 0,0,0 using the "latest point" you wrote down above (basically G0 then negative the numbers you wrote down, but be careful not to move "through material" - best to move Z upwards to a clearance height, then X&Y, then Z). Then zero the axes and you've got a shot at continuing the job. Ideally edit down the Gcode to omit all the moves it has already made (but obviously not Motor control / other settings) - this is only if you understand the Gcode well.
FWIW I have a switch in my spindle feed, so I can switch off the spinning spindle while I'm investigating where it had got to.
Perfect video. Thanks for sharing. Your videos are really eye-openers! Am I wrong when I say that 90+ % of the people who buy a simple CNC machine (because they are beginners, just like me I hope in a couple of weeks) don't realize the complexity and all the things that can go wrong between buying the CNC machine and getting it up and running and having made the first design in wood or any other material.
I am curious how many 3018 machines have been sold during the last few years and what percentage of them is still used by the first buyers.
You deserve many more subscribers and a lot of patreons or other people who'll give a financial contribution to keep your channel running.
Nearly no one who bought the machines are using them. CAM is too hard for most people. Combine this with needing a real CNC machine setup... with no instructions? It's bad.
@@phil2082 That's an interesting statement. Where did you get any numbers from? What happened to the not used CNC-machines? Are they given away, sold, only getting dusty and/or waiting for a better life? I haven't bought a (mini) CNC yet, I'm still hesitating.
@Hans de Groot I was given mine by someone who inherited it from a friend that passed away. It sat around for half a decade. It takes almost as much to do a setup on one of these machines as on a full sized CNC mill. It is very difficult to use these. It is absolutely possible, and worth it to learn, but very few people spend the time to learn, because the resources are honestly not great to learn this stuff.
People learn in different ways, and you sort of have to remember everything to get a part started on one of these... as well as pay attention to detail on everything, every time.
I am a mechanical engineer with a CNC background. I knew maybe ten people, out of about 300 engineering students, who knew cnc well enough to make anything... let alone make things quickly at a production level speed.
If you want to get a CNC machine, you have to learn the elements of a CNC setup: Tool holding, work holding/clamping, zero in X/Y, zero in Z, and how to use both the CNC controller software as well as how to CAM your own 3d model. That last one is a lot more difficult than the rest.
Downloadale gcode files exist for these machines, but this is nothing like a 3d printer, where your slicer software does what CAM software does.
Whe I was training to become Tool Maker I was taught the formula tp calculate RPM is (Cutting Speed (Find out for whatever material you are using im meter/min)=Pi(3.14 or 22/7)*D(Diameter)*N(RPM)/1000)
@ 6:45 Machine not connecting to your computer.
I found that if I have Easel open in any tab, it connects to my 3018 and blocks any atempt to connect with UGS.
So when i use easel to generate the cut-file, I need to close the tab, and then connect the machine USB cable, and then I can connect to it with UGS.
Thank you so much! The Y axis on our 4030 needed this exact treatment 😊
Good stuff! I was one of the unfortunate customers who received a model where the motor was on the left so I was lost on how to switch this around. I also had spindle problems with certain programs. One would only allow the spindle motor to run and none of the other axis, the other would allow everything but the spindle. So I decided to move onto the laser. I quickly realized I got the more powerful laser that doesn't have the proper connection on the board itself so I will need an external power supply to get it working. I've revisited this machine a few times over the past few years but never really have the time to troubleshoot it. Your videos help immensely but I find it a little distracting how you use different programs for certain settings then bounce into another. But at least I have a general idea on what to look for. Maybe I'll get this thing running yet!
In this video I do bounce about because it's problem solving but usually I just stick to Easel and UGS 👍 hope you get there with it but let me know if you have any issues
Awsome just had change usb port on laptop been at it since xmas morning keep up the good work : ))))))))))
Wow! Working my way through your awesome tutorials. Your efforts and hard work are appreciated. Hoping your contributions are up. They definitely have value. I'll definitely be contributing towards my future education from James Dean Designs.
Thanks for those kind words 👍
You forgot a big one, people not using ER collets correctly. I have seen plenty of videos here on YT where people insert the bit into the ER collet, then stick it in the spindle and fastening it with the ER nut while the bit is already in the collet.
ER collets have to be clicked into the ER nut first (without the bit), once the collet is clicked in place you can insert the bit and screw the lot onto the spindle (or even better screw the collet and nut on the spindle lightly first, insert the bit and then tighten it down).
My TwoTrees ttc450 was freezing up randomly. I soldered a 10 pico farad capacitor from each terminal on the motor to the motor housing. I haven't had the problem since. I always had to do this for my rc cars & airplanes. I figured it would help here, too.
What a great tutorial. 10/10👍
Thank you 😁
Brilliant video as always, James
Great video as always, very helpful! I'd just like to add that when routing out a profile it's always best with small bits to run multiple paths and drop down say 0.5mm each step. Harder materials the lower the step amount. It takes longer but your bits will thank you (and no I don't work for Manscaped lol!!). I have a 3018 pro but will definitely be building my own rather large CNC machine after scavenging some expensive steppers, just need to get the trinamic 5160 drivers built up...
Thanks for sharing!
Excellent as usual. Thanks James.
Nice video James….!!!!!
Now, which one do you think is the better….
If you do one video comparing the 2 machines, pro’s and con’s….. that would be awesome 🤩
Both are great, I think they have different strengths. They will both more or less do the same thing but I think the FoxAlien is better if you;'re looking to do laser work and the ProverXL is better if you want to do heavy CNC work like machining metal
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks Boss I appreciate it
All good info James. Thanks. Jim
Why my gantry not moving continuously but only single times for few unfix distance after sending moving command from Ugs and then in few attempts it gets disconnected until I reset the arduino, or software? I think it's because of EM interference create by motor but not sure since it showed be immune to these EM noise as it's made for these purpose.
Excellent video!
Thank you
Lot's of great information!
Thanks
Great tutorials, James! Thanks for sharing your skills.
Great videos been a big help being new to running a cnc machine. Why does it leave small uncut pieces in some of my cut outs
Thank you. This video help me with one of my issues. I am new to CNC and purchased the 3018 pro. I also add the 3040 Y-Axis Extension Kit for 3018 Series CNC Router and spoilboard. Do I need to change any setting. I can not find any information. I am using Vectric Cut2D desktop and Candle (Grblcontrol).
You don't need to adjust any settings in Vectric as that works on the material size. But you may need to update you $131 GRBL setting ti reflect the new length of your bed
James
I just installed UGS to run my machine ( 3018 pro) to replace the gcode sender that came with the machine ( grbl control). the ugs loads and will communicate with the machine but has a fault. the fault is that when I click on the jog buttons the program will not always send the command to the machine. other times it will send the command and the machine does as the command requests. in addition the machine ( while running the program code as sent ) will run a small portion of the code and then stop. I have run code using the grbl control and have not had any problems ( some of the buttons do not function , and never have zero z and zero xy) I have noted your use of the ugs and though to replace the grbl control with ugs to help me get away from some of these problems. Anything you can do to help?
Excellent helpful video.👍
Another great video James. Once again very informative.
Can I just point out something that I've not seen in any of your tutorials ( though I could be wrong) , VREF settings for the stepper motors. I was having an issue with my 3018 constantly loosing steps. When I checked the drivers (woodpecker board) they were only putting 400ma to the steppers. Since adjusting them to the proper setting for a nema 17 the issue has gone.
No, that's not something I have covered in my video but is very useful. Thanks for sharing
@@JamesDeanDesigns It would be great if you do cover it at some point. Took me a bit of research to get there. With your fan base, and ability to produce easy to follow tutorials, I'm sure it would be appreciated 😀
You mention exporting the design from Easel to Candie to do the cutting. I can't work out how to export from Easel. How is this done? I am a complete newbie with a 3018. First test carve worked fine. Since then, every attempt to carve from Easel has failed. I set the X Y Z points as instructed. When I start to carve, the machine lifts the bit, moves over and does the correct X,Y path but never lowers the bit to the work surface. Could this be caused by the bug you describe at 12:00?
Hi tommc49 i got the opposite problem my bit goes too deep . But to export Gcode as follow: Once done with all stages with your design > under MACHINE tab > advanced (at the bottom) > Generate G-code. that's all!
@@maximekone1769 Thanks, I have figured that out recently and have been using the Universal Gcode Sender to do the actual cutting since I heard on another YT channel that the Easel software has/had a bug affecting Z axis movement. (Perhaps it has been corrected, I don't know.) I also found that the bed of my machine was not perfectly level as some of the screws in the brackets holding the table to the rods were not equally tightened.
@@tommc49 Sorry I just realized your message was sent a month ago. Thks for bed level tip! I will check. Good day
@@maximekone1769 Actually, I just posted that today. don't know it was time stamped. In general now I find that this machine has so much vibration, it is a maintenance practice to tighten every screw about once a month. I was surprised on how many have loosened up.
@@tommc49 Thanks again. 1Q how long U be been in CNC world?
Thanks for this playlist! Just bought ant assembled my 4030 and the 6060 extension. Can you please make a video on how to change the homepoint (in candle) and some of the features of Candle?
Thanks again!
My cut started ok on my 3018 pro but then the spindle was a little too high after 2 minutes not touching the stock. All parts were running but the spindle was hovering over the stock. I stopped the project after that and here I am thinking what potion I should do next to fix the problem. It was cutting ok a few days ago I change the the cut depth to cut from 2 mm to 1 mm.
I guess my problem may be the g code itself. I keep having the same shut off problem at the same time into the cut, approximately. Trying to surface the spoil board has become insane. I've tried it with the laptop more than once. With the offline controller more than once. Which tells me it's not the laptop or the controller. I've used both the laptop and the controller at different times with an IO -T relay. I started with the IO-T relay and thought that might be the problem. Once I took the IO-T relay out of the circuit it seemed to work one time through but then the stopping problem returned on the next pass. I know I'm going to end up on the phone with Foxalien and just want to beat my head on something. Is it possible that some some part in the big control box is screwed up? On an unrelated topic, when using the offline controller it's limited to jogging 10mm at a time. That's very slow when you have to move 25" / 636mm. I would just send it back but I really don't want my laptop in the shop if possible. I should say my machine is the Vasto xl.
I began setup of my Sainsmart 3018 and noted that the metal table moved forward to a point where it was maxed out and it "bumped" against the front several times before retreating. I am concerned this may damage the machine and want to know how I set the machine up to avoid such mishaps. Thank you.
Awesome vids James. I have a problem with candle. I have a prover 4030 and when I am ready to machine the spindle in the visualize doesn't move. All the videos I watch it shows where it is cutting. Hope u can help. Great job again. I have learned a lot from u.
Check out the last but one comment on here, it might help you. github.com/Denvi/Candle/issues/64
one issue i had with the 3018 pro max all metal is that the UGS/Candle keeps on issuing error messages during milling until it stops milling completely. it is accompanied by the the machine missing steps. the offline controller also freezes up when the spindle motor turns on. i thought it was a connection issue initially. i contacted the seller about the problem and they cant offer a solution. i searched here in youtube, reddit and several other forums and no one had the same problem. eventually i found out these issues were rooted on one problem - poor power supply regulation. a simple addition of a 10000uF capacitor solved all the issues.
Hi James, great videos and thanks a lot too...I have a bit of a problem with a mini CNC machine from Banggood, its model is a 1419. Now I'm using Easel to simply generate a 20mm circle pocket I want cut. That's all fine. Am using UGS as my platform for importing my easel file. It all works fine until its about half way though the job or so and just looses connection. My green comms LED stops flashing, so no comms obviously. my fix is I need to re-connect, sometimes at that stage it resets itself to zero. I have to start again. Sometimes when I get it to try to go to 'zero' it goes the other direction..odd I know.
I see that the control board is really an Arduino Nano , if that makes any sense to you. Anyway, when the unit isent actually doing any work and at idle, comms is fine...Could it be power, lack off that is . ?
This issue can be one of many things sadly and it's purely a process of elimination until you find the cause. I doubt a lack of power is the issue but there is always a chance. The reason I say I doubt it is because a lot of people upgrade to a bigger PSU anyway and still have issues.
Sleep mode, Selective USB Suspend, USB cable are usually the most common but I've been having an issue recently when using my vacuum on the dust shoe. It's generating static which is causing it the drop connection 😕 as I say, it can be one of many things making it hard to resolve
my machine does some random movement in the middle of a job. It always does a random movement but not always the same. So, the error (random movement) always differs. The job is saved on a card so there is no USB-connection while running the machine.
any idea?
Hi thanks for the info
But where did you get the orange protective screen ???
Please ???
I got a great first cut. Now anything I try the spindle runs above the material. I have no clue what I inadvertently changed. How can I fix it? (Using easel.
Hi.i m using 3018.its sometimes reset during job.how I can resolve it.also it lost the origin point that I have set
having issues with spindle not starting on 2nd pass cannot see any differnce in settings
please help. I just bought a cnc pro + 15w. Im looking to engrave birch but the option is not there in my listings. Is there anyway that i can add this on laserGRBL. thanks
Hi I have a cnc3018pro and with the laser it works perfect but the router does work the x,y,z the router does not spin and in ugs I create macros to turn on and off the spinner but the x,y,z axes do not move and the same happens with candle. What I’m doing wrong. I have an hp laptop with 24 gigs of ram.
Thanks for this.
I am new to CNC Machines and I am having problem with my CNC 3018 Pro it is does not do the cut where it meant to be. for example my design in the centre of the work sheet but it always do it on left side and half of it can not be done it comes outside of the working area and sometimes it comes like a reflection. can someone help please.
I have a 6060 running gSender. I can see movement on the screen when I manually jog the router but the router just makes a clicking noise and no movement. Any thoughts. I have a 19 second video of the issue.
3018 prover offline controller can’t clear or reset error code 2 machine stopped in the middle of a job and now i can’t connect to candle again machine was running of of candle on desktop at the time when it happened
Hi. Great video. I still can't get mine to connect. When I click connect, it says ALARM and a code comes up that read "check limits" An unexpected command was completed by the controller. Any help?
I bought a 2 in 1 CNC and laser machine, laser works fine but having issue with the CNC... its uses candle software and connects but the x and y axis movement is very little when i press the arrow buttons it moves like less than 1mm, even the z axis moves very little
Likely to be your steps need correcting. Try this video th-cam.com/video/nGwUf8uNWBU/w-d-xo.html
Hey guys, I have a PROVerXL 4030 and I’m running UGS as my G-code sender. I’m keep getting an error code of “(Alarm 1) hard limit has been triggered.” But it happens when in the middle of a project when my spindle isn’t anywhere needs any of the limit switches. Anyone have experiences with this?
Laser grbl will not do portraits with my cnc-3018pro. Why not? All the videos I have followed by details all failed.
When you say failed, what actually fails? Have you tried running your image through the website imagr.com?
The biggest issue I have with my 3018 Pro is "ME". I did something stupid and was moving the X and Y axis 100mm and clicked the Z button by mistake, oops. The next revision of Candle should be to disallow moving the Z axis when the travel distance is set higher than 10mm.
I don't know if UGS addresses this issue as I have been unable to get UGS to work on my old Windows XP machine that I have dedicated as the CNC controller.
Its what I hate about Candle. In UGS you can set separate measurements for the Z axis to avoid that issue. I thought it could run on XP but I could be wrong
@@JamesDeanDesigns I think it can but I'm having an issue of it finding Java even though I installed the last version that runs on win32. I will continue trying but until I get it working or try my hand at writing my own version I'll just have to be careful.
Limit switches to the rescue!
@@optikon2222 ever completely unwound a spiral cut aluminum coupler? hell i even destroyed a nice set of gerwah couplers. i couldnt stand the pussy level of power the original motors came with so i upgraded to 93 oz in steppers and modified those making them closed loop. when my machine is holding a position i dont care how strong you are you arent moving an axis. only now i have to reset the motor as it will go into error when it bottoms out from hitting the wrong button in candle.
I had to turn off my time out on my USB port on my laptop. Some of my USB ports were turned off but the one I was using was turned on (active) and part way through a print the laser stopped.
Hi bro can we cut golden acrylic sheet to make cake toppers with cnc 3018 drill
I am using Easel and UGS to do a project.
Thank you bro ❤
Great video James, for newbies but I have a different issue. My spindle after completing a job and going to home, the spindle keeps running. It won't respond to candle or even after powering off the 3018 SE-V2. As soon as I power it up the spindle starts. Any ideas?? Most appreciative
If you have press the reset button and it's still going then possibly a blown MOFSET that may not be controlling the power correctly. Unless you're comfortable soldering, this usually means a new control board unfortunately.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for the quick response. I just got it a month ago so I'll contact Foxalien and hopefully they'll send me a new one.
Hi great video as usual. I bought a 3018 pro recently do you know if you can change language on the offline remote it's in Chinese,,,
You should be able to but to be honest I'm not 100% sure how to. Head over to the Sainsmart group on facebook and Im sure someone will know
Item number 10: Power settings disconnecting job
This was a running issue with my 3d printer. Windows 10 and 11 has hid these settings in multiple places. Windows 11 cares more about carbon emissions than functionality of the machine.
Windows 11 not only has power settings, but settings for each individual USB device and USB hub in the device manager, that you must find. You have to right click the device, hit "properties", then find a tab with a power setting that says something like "Allow windows to turn off this device to save power" and disable this. I have had this reverse itself after something as simple as restarting my computer. It is genuinely bad.
Hi my 3018 is printing wrong dimensions for example a 2x2 cm square is printed 2.5x2.5 cm what can i do to fix this issue should i calibrate the machine
Thank you
This should help th-cam.com/video/nGwUf8uNWBU/w-d-xo.html
After watching several of your videos, I am still struggling with my CNC Router. I tried sending you an e-mail in hopes that I would get a response, but I have not received one yet - this might be the only place I can put my question/problem that I am having, I guess... My email goes into detail but now I don't have the email to copy & paste it, because I sent it directly to you from your website's 'contact me' button.
However, when I am using my CNC, everything will be going fine for the FIRST cut, the Z-Axis will go down, cut the material (wood mainly) make the cut etcetera, and then when it goes back to continue (either the same area or moving to the next cut) the Z-Axis will move upwards and not come back down to touch the material, and if it does it barely touches it or makes very shallow cuts.
I have tried running the same project over and over, moving the Z-Axis down as far as the material will allow for, but still I run into the same problem where the Z-Axis will go up and not come back down again. I don't know a whole lot about this stuff (which is why I emailed you, figuring it would be an easier/faster way of communicating) and I was really hoping for some sort of guidance as to how I can make my CNC go DOWN and continue going DOWN so it will actually cut a project the way I want it to be cut.
Thanks, Sarah.
Had to shim the bed sliders for smooth travel check the travel without the lead screw
Love your videos sir very informative and much appreciated. Whenever I create a design in UGS itself and send the design, the gcode that is generated for that design is defaulting to a spindle speed of 0. How do I fix this so that when it is created it defaults to at least ON? Also to note this does not happen when the gcode is imported from easel.
Thank you very much for the kind words. I have never actually used the design features within UGS so to be honest I am not 100% sure. There is usually somewhere to change from manual to automatic spindle and you will need to have it on automatic
thanks for the tips James but I have this problem. I tried to use limit switches and try to use the settings on my ugs. the problem came up when i finished to see the limit switches that it worked i tried to home the machine and then the machine stopped with the ALARM. Goes also with the candle, it showed the ALARM. Everything froze. I tried pressing the reset button on the board but nothing happened. Can you help me on this?
James, very good videos for us new to the game. I still have issues 😭. I am using cnc 3018 pro, candle software and easel to make my design. Nothin difficult just a deer plunge. I downloaded it,opened it in candle and nothing works when I send. Just says processed three times and sent for everything else. Please help,been working on getting this thing to run for weeks to no avail
Hi there! I just got a 3018 pro and i have some issues with him,maybe you have some idea whats happend!
1. I charge the PCB file from Flatcam and most time CNC start running without turning on the spindle...i must stop,abort and try few times until works.
2. The software is GRBL Controller and last time didnt show the PCB,only the milling lines adn i couldn't set the 0 for Z...i got in log the message ok but nothing happends.
3. i dowload "Candle" but in candle work only the spindle when i press the button,the axes not works...i didnt try to charge the pcb to see if it running or not
If you have some tips or ideea what i can make,please help!
James, just found your channel. Thank you for all that you are doing for the community at large. Great information for beginners and, especially in trouble-shooting issues. Quick question or two - I notice you have your cnc's in housings. Is this for noise and dust, or simply to keep the machines clean? Also, I'm looking at a small bed cnc - 17x24" - what cnc's do you recommend in this size?
Thank you 😊
I have them in enclosures for all of those reasons you mentioned. Minimises noise, stops dust getting out and also stops dust/debris getting in when not in use. Also when using the laser I have an extraction fan to get rid of the smoke.
In terms of recommendations its a bit of a middle size you're after you can either loom at the Sainsmart ProverXL 4030 and buy the extension kit, or a Yorahome Silverback which is 24x24.
Got the USB thumb drive from Sainsmart, but it didn't include the COM port driver file. Plugged my newly built 3018 PROVer MX-3 into my Windows 10 PC and the XYZ axes (as well as spindle power) seem to be responsive using the Druefel manual controls in the software, however, Windows (or my PC) don't seem to show the CNC router as a device, or a COM port with the device attached to the COM port (it shows COM 1 - but no 3018 PROVer). Do I still need to try and find a COM port driver file and install in this case?
Hi Sid, The MX3 is mach based as opposed to GRBL so I'm not 100% sure if its the same to be honest but if its all working then thats a good sign. You may be better off posting in the Sainsmart group on Facebook as there are quite a few MX3 users
hello i have a yora silverback 6060 and my spindle is not working and It does not give meoption to change it when I go thru the steps,any suggestions>
Under the machine menu, you have to go through some of the steps to setup your machine and it should then give you the option
i tried the test program i got a 5mm square not 50 how do i re adjust the calibration
Please help me understand how a USB hub can be used. The USB cable from the 3018 to the laptop carries power and the code, correct? So if I plug that into a hub, how does the code get from the laptop to the 3018? Do I need a second cable to from laptop to hub and then cable to 3018? Or, do I plug the hub into the laptop and then the 3018 into the hub? Thanks for are reply.
The USB hub will just display like a normal USB cable. Its just like using an extension lead. The difference is with it having its own power supply its a little more consistent and less chance of drop out which is what can cause it to disconnect
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for replying promptly. So you plug the hub into the laptop and plug the cable from the 3018 into the hub. Then the hub supplying the power to the 3018 and the gcode is passing from the laptop, through the hub to the 3018. Do I have that correct?
Great video do you have to install the driver each time you use the machine? thank you
No, you should only need to do that once and its should be good to go after that
How do you laser engrave on acrylic. Mine goes straight through to the wood without leaving on mark on the plastic., Can you advise what i am doing wrong pleeeeeeese
Unfortunately you can't really engrave on acrylic directly. You need to apply something to the surface in order to catch the laser. Tape, marker, paint all work
I have the FA CL 6560 and when I adjusted the GRBL settings for the movement in the x and y axis something else got changed. As a result my stepper motors for x and y will stall out and any movement above 1260 mm/min. I cant seem to find the problem. Any help will be apprieciated. Thank you and keep up the good work!
You could just reset you GRBL settings to be safe and start from scratch. To do this you type $RST=$ and hit enter. Alternatively you would need to go through all of your settings individually and compare them to the defaults to find the one that caused the issue
my x, y, and z axes go in the opposite direction and the spindle tries to come out from the front of the machine. Is there a fix in g-code?? or how do I reverse direction of axes??
If you literally watch this video that you've commented on the answer is in it, issue 7.
Please Help... My 3018 pro power supply tripped the breaker a few times. So I plugged it into an outlet with a higher out breaker. Now it does nothing and doesnt trip the breaker on the one I originally plugging into. Im not electrical savy, any idea what happened? Appreciate the help and thank you for all your help videos. There is pretty much no support for the Annoytools 3018 Pro.
It's a case of finding the fault. I suspect you may have blown your power unit. This is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to replace at a cost of around $15.
I got the direction of the axes cleared up, but new problems persist. X and z axes are quiet and move at normal speed. My y axis sounds like someone driving fast with emergency brake on. The y direction is also very slow. I have the extension kit -- got it from Amazon as it wasn't available from Sainsmart yet. Doesn't work any better with extensions. Six months of having this Genmitsu and still have not been able to carve anything. Any help would be appreciated.
Either something is binding or not aligned correctly or perhaps you GRBL settings have been changed by accident (it can happen without you knowing). Check you $100 and $101, they should be the same value
What do I do if the cutting motor just keeps pulsing and not actively spinning up to speed meaning I can hold and stop it with my hand. The red light at the back also just blinks like its giving and losing power at the same time. Is this a board issue and if so where can I buy the boards?
Could be a bad connection so check that first. Also sometimes if the speed is set too low then it can pulse because it is not sending enough power to run the spindle correctly. But if all that is ok then yes it sounds like a board problem. You can pick them up off Amazon, ebay, aliexpress etc. Just search GRBL control board or 3018 control board
I just put my genmitsu 6060 together and when i move my xmotor by turning the wheel every couple of inches it makes a grinding noise can you help thanks.
Sometimes the wheels can have flat spots which adjusts the pressure on the wheels, but that more like a jerk than grinding noise. It might be something like the backlash nut or spring catching 🤔
great content. i have issues with my 3018. the design always cut mirrored. can you please help me with that? or is it the $3 problem also. thanks for enlighment
I have a Vecor 3018 and the following problem. When controlling with the offline GRBL controller, i.e. without a PC, the cutter moves diagonally a few centimeters down to the right when canceling or finishing a job and also the cutter moves down in Z direction below the height of the home position. So into the material, which is not so good. The spindle also switches off.
Does anyone know this and is it due to the firmware?
So this sounds to me like it is post processor related. The post processor creates your gcode but also inserts specific things for the start and end of the job. Not sure what software you are using but if its Carveco or Vectric you need to make sure you select the GRBL post processor. There are lots of similar ones but this is the safest
Thanks for the reply. I‘m using Easel. I haven’t selected any post or preprocessor. I will check that. But the issue also appears with demo files on the offline controller where I haven’t done any editing.
hello, Best channel I have found for cnc info. I have one question, What bit, spindle speed and feed rate should be used for aluminum?? I have the 3018 pro. I have not broken a bit but the bit chatters and goes out of path.
3018s are not really designed for aluminium but essentially if you're getting chatter you either need to reduce the depth per pass or slow the speed down. My first choice would be depth of pass
Thank you so much for all your help a few months ago when I was setting up my fox alien 4040 - XE. My machine has been running fine for a few months.When I try to home my device and it hits the switch on the left side wall coming in it starts to jerk and will not stop unless I shut off the machine. Do you think it could be that a motor is going bad or a switch? Any help would be much appreciated!
It might be your limit switch not making contact. The easiest way to test is press the home sequence then manually press the limit switch with you finger. If the machine stops then its working, but if it doesn't then you may have a faulty switch.
I have a similar problem. Haven't found a good answer for it yet. The limit switches work fine unless I try to home it-- then, I have to hit the emergency stop because it won't stop with the limit switch. I know this sounds crazy, but it happens every time.
@@amillard264 all limit switches or just one?
Great video, as usual James. My problem is, everything works fine, cuts fine (mind you still on simple shapes). Thing is, it cuts on the work piece, upside down. When finished, of course, the shape is cut and I just turn it. But just wondering why. Is it a matter of changing the $3 line? Cheers Peter C.
That's probably it. As the 308 move the bed the movements are kind of opposite, so clicking forward should actually move the bed towards you. $3 is more than likely the cause
Thanks James :)
Hi , i have set up my 3018 pro and all seems ok but, when i go to test my x + y i have the issue of them juderring and not moving correctly. I carried out some testing by removing the power to x and y worked fine and visa versa.....have you had this issue and is there a fix
That is odd. There is always the chance your power supply is not strong enough which may explain why it runs better when you disconnect one motor. If its only rated for a few amps you may want to get a more powerful one.
I just ordered the powered hub. Unfortunately couldn't through your link due to there being Amazon here in Sweden. Nice information for newbies like myself.
Appreciate you trying though 👍
Hi james one other possibility,I use a TP internet connection it plugs into 13amp socket
in my workshop and sometimes it’s not the best signal and drops off
Great tips there james thanks for your time and effort’s cheers
Can I ask. Have you added a third rail for extra support to your 3018?
I will have suggestion about driver, i had problem with stoping work in middle of work and after everything figured out it was driver problem it was 2011 year developed, i found new one latest 2019 and it fixed connection problems
Excellent. There are a lot of bad drivers out there unfortunately. Glad you found a better one
I notice when you are adjusting the guiderails, you rotate the lead screw manually. Is this necessary, or can I have my machine jog to the loosened side?
You can have your machine do it but 👍
i have a issue , the cnc not cutting to scale , use fusion 360 to create part , how to fix that?
Your steps may need calibrating
th-cam.com/video/nGwUf8uNWBU/w-d-xo.html
Hi i`m new to this i have a 3018pro it work was working great then XYZ axis stop moving i have power going to to motors any ideas would be welcome
Could possibly be something to do with the driver chips on the control board if they have been knocked or damaged. It may also be something to do with your connection. Unfortunately it is usually a case of trial and error to find the solution
I experience misalignment after bit changes. I’ve tried both changing the bit with the spindle on and removing the spindle entirely, but the result is always misaligned. Any idea why this happens, and how do you change bits during a project?
Ideally you need limit switch to ensure the position remains exactly the same. This video show the method.
th-cam.com/video/G9x1xM_uXbM/w-d-xo.html
Your videos are excellent. I was wondering if you have seen a way to control a cnc3018pro with an Android or Apple tablet? I have adapters from usb to usbC.
Im not saying it cant be done but I have not seen it happen.
Okay, so I was using my laptop Windows 11 to run my 4040 xe and easel pro for my software. It was stopping in one spot an literally couldn't go any further so I gotta hold of easel. They done a remote session, he turned off some hard limits. Okay, well, that didn't fix the problem. Because later I found out it was actually my laptop. The USB port was corrupted. Now that I've got a new laptop and everything's working good. It's starting to bounce around at the back of the machine behind my project and I'm not sure what's going on. It literally went to the bottom of my project yesterday and dug a bunch of my waistboard . Do you have any clue what could cause my project to get Almost all the way done, and then start bouncing around Didn't me wasting A8 hour project? I'm not sure if it is the the 3 d downloads im chosing or something wrong with my machine