How I clamp different blade styles and types in the KME for sharpening.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2021
- KME clamping on different blade styles and types for sharpening. A walk through of many different blades showing each one clamped in the KME jaws.
Outpost 76 Patreon
/ user
Edge retention testing data sheets
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Contact me at gdniel@yahoo.com
As always I appreciate your time and thanks for watching.
![[Full Episode] MasterChef Junior Thailand มาสเตอร์เชฟ จูเนียร์ ประเทศไทย Season 3 Episode 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FOIiws4XMGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I enjoy the hell out of using my KME and always appreciate any info and pointers on how to get better with it. Thanks Gerald.
You're welcome
Thanks for this video. I don't own a KME however i have gone through a couple of my clamped systems and just spent some time clamping a few different knives. Its definitely improved my clamping technique.
You're welcome
Thanks for sharing all the knowledge G it’s much appreciated!!👊
A lot of good info on this subject Gerald. Thank you.
You're welcome
Always wondered how you clamped a Para 3, I've tried many ways and had trouble with sharpening the heel until I finally figured it out. Thanks for another great video
You're welcome
Excellent demo G! The pinch is critical while snugging the three wing knob allowing the jaws to self center, then we can really crank it down. I’ve never seen one break either.
Absolutely, having no movement of the blade in the clamp is 90% of getting a good result.
Looking forward to your testing of the cruwear micarta pm2. I just got mine last week.
It will be coming I'm just not sure when. I have a busy few weeks coming up.
Thank you. I have a kme for a while now, but haven’t used it at all. I have the atoma diamond plates, but some of them delaminated. Just waiting for the recommended double sided tape that they use to reinstall also have locative epoxy if I find the tape gives me a weak bond
Hopefully that works and you can get to using it.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Please do more KME videos. I’m having trouble getting a uniform and even bevel all the way across. My tip is always huge
I'll try and do one before I move all the way showing the whole process.
Great perspective!
Thanks
Thanks for your video here. I still cannot get any of my knives to clamp well enough that they will not still pivot and pull out of the clamp. I also have to be very careful about where I clamp them, or the knife will not center in the clamp, I end up with a gap between the blade and the clamp, but only on one side, so one side of the blade is tight against the rubber lining of the clamp, but the opposite side has a gap. Angle of rod stays the same, but with the knife not centered, the hone is higher into the blade on one side than the other.
My Spyderco Para3 is the tightest in the clamp, thanks to your tip on how to line it up in the clamp.
Sounds like the clamp just need to be tighter. If it's moving around its still too loose. Email me some pictures of knives clamped so I can look at them.
Edge pro and hapstone table systems are better for me and much more versatile. Especially with different geometry. Taper, distil tapers etc.
I also have an Edge Pro and I do use it for different things at times.
Great Information! This question is just for pocket knife sharpening only, what percent do you hand sharpen and what percent do you use your KME?
With few exceptions when its for comparison test knives all get sharpened on the KME. If I'm not sharpening any knives to test I freehand everything I use myself. I'd say 70% KME and 30% freehand only because I sharpen much more for testing than my own use.
I draw a straight line from tip to heel, measure the center and put a notch, put the Jaws as far back as I can where they are stable, centered on the notch and parallel with the line
I used to do it in that way when I started. Then I tried other ways to clamp and found what works for me. It's not a bad method but it doesn't work for enough blade styles that I moved away from doing that.
I had trouble with other blade shapes as well and ended up going a different route and found myself doing the same as Gerald over time
I find that the KME clamps aren't great when it comes to having equal angles on each side. If you use an angle cube you will find the 2 sides are usually off even with adjustments. Especially with hollow grinds.
Can you measure the angle with angle cube on top of wooden block at different points along the arc and confirm same angle?
So do you not use the heel to tip line for any of them? Looked like you clamped them all straight across.
Not many, there are some knives I will clamp that way now that I know it works good like that. Most I just clamp how I know works, I've done so many at this point I remember the most common ones I do regularly.
i sent my kme today back becase the clamp had play . only when turning and with knive. in europe its not easy to find kme and not cheap. the small steel plate that holds the jaws is the problem i think. i had to push the jaws to side then it would snap in place with no play up and down. it was not much but it was frustrating.
I'm not sure what the issue was with yours exactly, both of mine don't have that problem.
So I saw other videos where people say you do have to angle the blade in the clamp to match the curve of the blade. Why is there conflicting information on this?
My other question, when I get a knife with a craptacular factory grind that is uneven as hell and I want to reprofile to a certain angle, does it take ages on the KME? I feel like I can sharpen forever and still not get and even bevel and get the bur starting. Is that normal or am I doing something wrong?
I did a video about clamping in the KME. Blade size, shape, grind and geometry all come in to play. Some blades need to be clamped in a way that doesn't seem like it's correct. As far as matching a bevel or an angle change I've never spent more than 20 minutes fixing a blade. I'm not sure what you are doing to be able to say what may be wrong. My email is in the description and you can contact me for more info.
How about Benchmade 940/943? I just remove the blade from the scales to sharpen and to avoid hitting the top of the scale. With some other, I protect the scales with tape.
I am currently fighting my 940-1, and she is fighting back. The s90v is really a pita to get a burr on at higher grit. Any tips?
@@hotwiredxj I used the KME 140 Grit diamond stone and matched the angle with a Sharpie, however, I removed the blade first and thumb studs first. I found it a lot easier than I expected. I have done other S90V blades and none were tough. Even K390 has been easy, but took much longer.
Next time I have one I'll have to show how I work around having to take the knife apart.
Hey G, i am freehand sharpener. And would you say that the KME System is better and especially faster than freehand sharpening? The main question is should I get one or not.
Great question and no it isn't faster or slower. Once you use an particular fixed system enough it becomes quite fast. Using a Cruwear Manix as an example it's about the same time either way, KME or freehand. Prepping my freehand stuff or setting up the knife in the clamp and getting the angle set then the actual sharpening is the same on either.
Good video I’m doing more free hand these days . Trying to get away from Systems .
That's how I do most of my own stuff now. If I'm already sharpening knives to test then I'll do one if it's needed, otherwise I just freehand.
how do i avoid accidentally open the tip too wide? I want it to be perfectly parallel
Some knives it will take freehand to keep the bevel the same width. Most knives when positioned in an optimal way will end up with an even bevel on a guided system. What knife and system are you using?
@@Outpost_76 work sharp, and Hinderer eklipse Bowie. It’s still factory edge because I’m not entirely sure about sharpening it
So basically what your doing is drawing an imaginary line from the tip to the center of the pivot and clamping parallel to that line.
Is m390 better than k390
Depends on the heat treat and what you are cutting. Unless you need stainless properties K390 with an equally good heat treat is going to perform better than M390 in most cases. I'll compare a custom M390 and K390 soon.
Ok. I way over think it. I actually draw a line from tip to heel. Then measure to get center. Then line up clamp parallel to line .. am I stupid ??
yes hihi
I do the same for all but small knives. Then again I'm a bit OCD
No, depends on what the particular knife is. Some just don't sharpen even if you use the heel to tip parallel method.
When you get a chance, shoot me a message please.
Email me, I lost the phone I use for messenger and I'll give you my number.
@@Outpost_76 WoW u r more than a TH-camr, great men share their knowledge as u do and are always willing to help. Thank you for all the content u make provide and the assistance we all benefit from u