How To Solder Wires Like A Pro
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
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Great video, for Stranded wire. The "Western Union or Lineman splice" for Solid wire is good as well. I like using the lineman splice on stranded wire with shrink wrap, it seems like a stronger connection. Thank you for videos and stuff you showcase on your channel.
That's actually fairly close to the NASA method. In theirs you twist each end to a small hook and twist them back around each other and crimp so you have something like a super tight chain link, you then solder the whole thing. It makes for a very strong bond as well as a perfectly good connection.
Slip the shrink tube on before you make the connection in case you can’t slide it over an end of the wire! Just a tip!
can you put your belt up on the store?
Great video.. I myself switched to using the self silicone shrink tube.. It works great with one less step.. Peace!!
For me the hardest part of wire soldering is to remember put shrink tube before soldering those two wires.
AND keep it far enough away from the soldering job that it doesn't shrink up before you can use it...! >_
@@simonbelanger3923 ⛪
Been there brother.
Ha ha, I’ve done that a few times myself...very annoying.
@@simonbelanger3923 Exactly, and normally you don´t solder a black wire ( - ) together with a red wire (+) ... :)
Always connect black and red wires. Can never go wrong.
That is correct
kaboom
Ofcourse
Looks like an led trailer light plug/harness so it wouldn't matter
Lol thats pro
I must not be the only one disturbed by a tutorial showing a red and black wire being soldered together
Haha awesome 👏 didn’t even notice, I’m sure it’s for demonstration purpose, since it’s a soldering tutorial not a wiring tutorial
That's not what bothers me the most, it's the way you Yanks pronounce 'sodder' and still call your language English!
@@Globerson Yes Matt, the L isn't silent and in case you too want to be able to speak English correctly the O as in 'so'. I just can't understand how you've managed to muck up our language the way you have since 1607. I mean look at 'aloooominum'......!
you son of a bi---
@@richardd3663 You can't give the yanks a hard time when we are just as bad at our own language. Go to Birmingham, Liverpool, Bristol, Edinburgh, Newcastle etc. and tell me their accents are easier to understand than an american.
As a soldering pro I very much approve of this. Your method is pretty much foolproof. A tip: have some molten solder on the soldering iron tip to act as a heat conductor. That way you avoid the long heat up times like you had in your example.
for me as someone who has never done anything in life in terms of electronics this is a very important video for me to watch at 4 am instead of sleeping yes :)
Same, because you never know, amirite?💫
@@Fgbjdhdbccvx we are all subject to the algorithm
I am literally watching this at 4:36 am after coming home drunk from a party in a dormitory
4:15 am ... so close
this info is useful for fixing copper pipes, too
Don't forget to put the shrink tube on the wires before you solder if you can't slide them on whenever you're done soldering.
I've done that more than I'd care to admit lol
Looks like i'm not the only one
Clay Willoughby I've done this enough to know better now. There's nothing more aggravating than forgetting to put it on and realizing that perfect soldering job you just completed was for nothing.
Was anyone worried that he was soldering a red wire to a black wire...?
Viktor Orban In the USA, Black is Live and White is Neutral.
I bought a soldering station last year. It changed my whole view on soldering. It never takes that long to heat up, and it is amazing how easy it is to solder now. Also, always use small solder. It heats up and melts faster and makes life easier. Great video as always.
You “tin” the tip of your iron to help avoid corrosion when not in use.
You also tin the tip to improve heat conductivity. You’ll notice the difference when applying solder to a non-tinned tip vs a tinned one.
The joining of the wire in this video was perfect technique, which I’m totally stealing.
The reason it was taking so long for the flux to activate was that the wire was conducting away the heat from the solder gun.
The point where the two objects being soldered meet is called a “joint”.
You should apply heat to the joint, and apply solder to where the solder gun and the joint meet. This technique will help transfer heat to the joint faster, getting ahead of the heat dissipation the wires introduce.
Great video. Thank you for making it.
Do you know what the black strand he was holding over the wires? Was he melting something into it?
@@michaelkuhn6619 hey that was soldering wire or solder for short! One of the most commonly used ones is 60/40 meaning 60% tin and 40% lead alloy solder. So basically he twists the wires, anchoring them and then heats the twisted wires using the soldering iron bringing them up to the temperature that would melt the solder wire. He then applies that solder wire to that join, which has now heated to the point of being able to melt the solder. The solder melts nicely over the joint and fuses it together.
The paste he applied at the start the rosin is used to remove any corrosion and impurities from the surface of the wires so that solder will cling nicely on to the joint.
The dab on your iron helps to transfer heat and also cleans your iron a little with the rosin.
Double wall heat shrink will really seal it up.
Tinning the iron does the double duty of transferring the heat faster and it protects the tip from corrosion while it's hot.
Without it, I tend to melt some insulation by the time the solder flows through.
After 50+ years in electronics including ham radio I learned some valuable techniques....many thanks!
With you bud👍🏻😉😊 🇬🇧
Like what exactly...?
Like how not to solder wires together.
@@ehtcom
What was wrong with what he did?
I appreciate how often you take a moment to say "thats always how grand dad did it" it reminds me of my own grandpa teaching me skills like this.
The only issue is that while many of grandpas solution are viable, many are no longer relevant. That is why many people do stupid things while work8ng on cars. Stuff was made differently
I mean they meet up somewhere
If you’re going to solder wires in a car or truck, just be sure it isn’t in a harness with any movement at all, since soldering makes the wire end more brittle right near the joint. You’ll notice almost all wire connections are crimped from the factory in an automobile because of vibration, for this reason.
The heat shrink on the alligator clamps is genius.
I like the reference to your grandfather. I’m out in the shop tonight soldering some wires and thought I’d just do a TH-cam search to see what other guys are doing. I’m actually using my grandfather’s old Weller gun and I use the exact same method as you. Great video for those who are attempting to solder wires for the first time!
Great tips! I couldn't tell you how many times I've forgotten to put the shrink tubing on first 😂
Its easy to twist wires when they are detached like that, its a different story when they are actually attached to something and in tight spot :D
Yep, and it’s very difficult with high amperage wire that runs directly to the battery. Even 25A wire running to a motorcycle battery is quite difficult
So true! I always seem to end up with a twisted up mess!
I'm with you, everything is easy on the bench with clamps... hardly real world
If you want to solder faster use wet tip (wet with solder), it will eliminate micro gap and transfer the heat faster onto the wire. That way you wont melt the wire.
Use a mini butane torch and it’s three times faster
I've had terrible luck soldering wires together, and after watching this video, I can see why I've failed !! Thank you very much for taking the time to make it. VERY informative and well done. Bob in Grand Rapids, MI
Heat from the bottom was the best bit I learned from this. Thanks for the pro tip
Nice joint! And, thanks for suggesting the dielectric silicon grease.
It should be noted that quite often, the joint will be made between either two long pieces of wire or two wires that may already be joined to something at the other ends, so the shrink tubing can't be slipped on easily or at all, after the soldering is done.
There are two ways to address this:
One way is to put an appropriate length of shrink tubing onto one of the wires before soldering, but it should be slid well away from the site of the soldering or it will shrink and not slide over the joint.
The other way is to get some self-fusing electrical tape to wrap around the joint after the soldering is done. This may not always be the best method, but sometimes may be the method of choice... especially if one is simply soldering a wire to a connector of some sort, or "oops! I forgot to put the shrink tubing on before applying the solder.".
Best wishes.
I used this technique for my Line 6 power chord and it worked beautifully thanks to your video! Thank you!
Have to agree with some of the comments below. Although Cody has done an excellent job connecting two wires, and one that, for most purposes, will be quite serviceable, there is no mechanical connection. I was a certified in the Air Force for high reliability soldering, and the first rule for soldering anything is to ensure a strong mechanical connection, since solder has very little physical strength to it. The linesman splice is preferable. Good job Cody!
Is it true that the lineman splice or Western Union slice is designed for solid wire?
Man I’ve seen your woodworking videos now I’m getting electrical advice. Thank you for your knowledge sir.
me who uses teeth as a wire cutter/striper and fingers like a soldering iron: thats cute
While the thing is still on
@@MS-fe3vo XD yes
It’s cute that you think anyone cares
@Loli4lyf it’s cute that you think I care about a random person’s opinion about my profile picture which I don’t want to change because I don’t have to
I've never used flux before, but recently when soldering wires together, the solder just wouldn't flow and stick, now i know why, great tips thanks.
Learned more then I've ever learned from my electric class, in this 1 video, thank you so much really appreciate it, keep it up
Ikr? I'm watching this in December. So, now I have to ask Santa🎅 for a Soldering kit🤷♀️🤣 *sigh* That'll be the perfect 🎁 gift for me this year🤗🤪 Then, I'll have to find some wires that need soldering...now, if I can only get my friend to walk away from his car🚗, with the hood up & battery out, of course......🤫*snip! Snip! SNIP!*✂️...🤭...🤔Hmmmm....It seems that my friend was not aware that he had some cut wires here😲! Well, as his friend, it is my duty to solder them back together🦸♀️ Thank Heavens that I watched this video!!!😁
As a mechanic I really like that you are using information passed down to you from your granddad, it is really cool to know that this information is legit because of that
LOL - this made me chuckle 😂
I really like your method as it makes it much easier to have a flush joint. That's important when you are sliding the shrink tubing over the top. Thanks, my man!
I spent a semester in MIL-spec soldering. You never untwist stranded wire. Tin both ends, bend a hook in each end, hook them on each other, flow some solder. Far stronger than this mess in the video. If you really want something awesome, get some 63/37 eutectic solder and you’ll be in heaven.
Make a video
Mil spec soldering... I'll be dammmmd
That solder gun gets hot quick! A family member threw mine out, thinking it was broken. Lol but I have a nice new digital now=D
Your videos are all pretty good and I enjoy watching these. Very informative and detailed! I will say when using those ring terminals, I do the best I can to solder the connection point just so it helps reduce the chances of it getting loose over time, granted it can't be done every time. But it seems to work well for me when I'm able to
Beautiful video! Genius use of the m3 silicon grease! Never thought of using it like that
If the other ends of the wires are permanently attached to devices, don't forget, step 1 is to thread the shrink tubing on first. If you have to cut apart your tediously soldered wiring harness once you won't likely forget again. The silicone is a great idea I wasn't aware of.
The reason you tin the iron before touching the connection is so the heat can transfer better to the wires that you are soldering. There’s the potential of way more hot surface area (to melt the solder on top of the wires) when the solder is on the iron as opposed to just having the solderless iron try and heat up the wires
I've been a subscriber from early on and you are a very good teacher of things,very good instruction, to the point, well spoken.very informative and helpful. Great job
I never knew about flux not that silicone! Makes sense though, since I found out about flux when learning how to solder plumbing copper pipe.
Thanks for the tutorial!
SUUUUUPER important to put the shrink sleeve on the wire BEFORE soldering!! I've forgotten to do this too many times!
Tinning the tip? It's for improved heat transfer.
see how this made you into a pro, wow!
Tinning actually involves applying solder to the work area then wicking it off prior to performing the repair. What this does is remove surface oxidation that could prevent solder from flowing and aid in heat transfer. Adding solder to the tip of the iron is technically called "seasoning." This should be performed after each use of the iron to prevent the tip from oxidizing and extending its life. ...I taught high reliability soldering for the Navy. 😆
@@EenChristJesus yeah I only watched a couple of seconds of the video but the guy definitely doesn't seem like a pro
@@Eric-xh9ee of course he isn't a pro, he doesn't even know why he is putting solder on the tip before soldering, nor does he have proper soldering equipment
that's the wannabe do it all
the "it's not dumb if it works"
What you just did will work perfectly fine for most applications.
But if you're interested in real strong splices, bare back the wires an inch or so, meet them, bend them 90 degrees, then twist them together in opposite directions. It's called a western union splice, the harder you pull on it the tighter it gets (until it breaks). Also the preferred spot to add solder is directly between the iron and the wire. And soldering wires together you don't really need paste flux as long as you use flux core (AKA rosin core) solder. And you don't want solder to flow into the insulation of the wire. But I was taught mil-spec soldering you don't need to get that fancy for general purpose stuff :)
I understand the Western Union splice was designed for solid wire but not stranded wire, is this correct?
@@dwaynemcallister7231 2 year old comment wow haha. That could be true. I'm not sure. We used it for stranded in school. But either way it works :). The main thing I was taught is that it doesn't really matter what form of splice you use, it has to be inspectable. Meaning you have to be able to see the adhesion of the solder joint and not just a blob of solder, and if the solder wicks up into the insulation it's no longer inspectable.
Thank you so much for showing me how to solder. I have always been skeptical of trying it, but now i feel confident.
Your kidding, right?
I appreciate the silicone advice, will use that in the future.
When soldering, I LIVE by the mantra "skrink tubing hides a lot of sins"
Thank you for sharing your knowledge to all of us, good idea and Grand Dad was self taught. Thank you for a great video! Your Soldering iron is huge but it does the job.
Didn’t even realize it was a wranglestar video till he showed his face. Best videos on TH-cam!
Boss: fix that wiring join them back together
Me: ok
10 minutes later
Boss: WHY IT TAKE 10 MINUTES
"Why it take ten minutes ?"
Guessing you work for "angry Asian".
What I do is I use shrink tubing with inner hot glue coating. With this, your wire connections will last till the end of time
True! 3:1 shrink tube with adhesive is my favorite!
I don’t use a fancy new gun, I have my grandfathers soldering iron kit, with the old stile wands that look like a wood burner. A fine tipped one and a bulky one. He was a master electrician and used them for decades, now I use them, both still work great.
Great advice and Video, the "tining" the iron part was valuable and heating from underneath as well
Thanks man... Found this useful... I'm hopeless at soldering.. Hopefully will help.... From Australia.
I enjoyed this video a lot. I am 72 and 50 years ago I was rebuilding these small block engines. Its nice to see I was doing it right and you still are.
Nice tip about speeding the fibers. It is much smaller joint than the "Western Union Joint" I usually use.
By "tinning" it, allows more heat flow from the iron to the wires.
Yep you can tin the bare wire when joining to solder pads ECT and also should run the tip, him wiping it on a cloth is not tining anything lol
Let me explain a few things...
1. Tinning the tip of the iron is done for a couple of reasons. First is because as the iron remains heated, corrosion forms on the surface of the hot solder. Second is to tin it so you have extra solder to wipe off the corroded solder just like he very poorly wiped it on the sponge. Corroded solder should have come off onto the sponge leaving freshsolder behind. Third, you need a proper amount of solder for sufficient heat transfer. His wires took so long to heat up because he didnt have enough solder on his iron. By having a larger fluid surface, you come into more contact with the wires surface faster than pressing just the iron. Notice how once he started adding more solder it wicked up the wires and how once it was 90% coated he was able to reflow it super fast? Proper amount of solder makes for faster heat transfer.
2. Joining method doesnt matter as much as how well the solder flows into the wires. If the wires are properly soldered (regardless of joining method) they will be very difficult to pull apart. If they pull apart easy, its likely a cold solder joint or not enough solder/flowed solder.
3. The flux he used is 100%unnecessary if the wires are clean and the solder already has a flux core. However if youre having difficulty creating a good flow of solder, the flux will help tremendously.
Great job, lots of patience in your explanations and the video was nice and clear. Basically, add the shrink tube prior to soldering and keep it far enough away so it doesn’t start to shrink from the work being done..then slide it into place later.
Fantastic. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I about passed on this because I thought I knew how to solder. This is a really cool technique. Will definitely be using this!
I thought this was how everyone was taught to solder, how were you doing it?
Same... don't know how strong the joint would be, but it does seems marginally better than just spinning them normally
U did a great job. I was unfamiliar with how to solder electrical wires for my headlight on my silverado. Your demonstration was very clear and precise. Thank u.
For love nor money, there’s no way I could solder properly even with tin solder containing flux. This video is a godsend and I’m well on my way to finishing my new Corvette Head Unit connections. Thank you so very much!
This is the definition of breaking a butterfly on a wheel ^^
Putting a small amount on the iron helps the heat transfer (tinning)
He did. lol
Freefallpilot65 you do it while heating the wire it useless the way he did it
Absolutely correct. That puddle on the tip helps transfer the heat to the joint. It also helps to put the flat part of the tip on the joint.
Indeed, increases heat transfer. Makes solder flow faster and avoids burning things up.
absolutely, and the wire is probably bare tinned copper no need for flux
Very good video, I liked the connection and the fray trick. It looked well soldered and water tight and a very slim job. I'll be using this technique in the future. thanks.
I've been doing this for years and never had a failure... Great trick!
Hey Cody, while it can't hurt, the use of flux paste with rosin core solder in this type of soldering is redundant. Flux paste should be used when existing connections are re-exposed to heat, such as in the case of soldering adjacent connectors, etc.
Flux inhibits oxidation at the site of heating, which results in better connections.
Also, flux should be removed following soldering so as to minimize corrosion. A lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol are adequate for this application.
Dielectric grease is a corrosion inhibitor, so it's great for exposed electrical connections. Especially the mechanical type, such as a lug and bolt.
Properly applied, hear shrink tubing will seal connections, and it's also optional in this application.
It should be noted that solder and flux are available for specialized purposed, and that plumbing flux and solder should not be used to solder electrical connections.
Lastly, do not directly touch solder to the iron. This is the reason why it took so long to initially heat the conductors. Heat the leads, then touch the solder to the leads to "flow" solder across the connection. Wipe any flux and solder residue from the tip of the iron, and repeat.
Great video, as usual. Keep up the great work.
As I understand it, Cody was right to want to tin the iron. Though he ended up keeping a blob of solder on the iron. To tin, he needed to apply the solder then flick excess off, thus keeping a thin layer on iron only.
I know you should use proper flux for the proper job but I've used an old tin can (or steel? not sure) of nokorode that's been in the family since my great grandfather, and while there's still flux left in there we probably won't buy anything new because it does the job and it does it really well, provided you clean up afterwards (isopropyl and a nail brush). The only issue with it is the fact the binder is a really nasty thick grease, but honestly I'd rather take that over the horrible liquid flux that's really popular, I should also say I would probably get real electronics flux paste if it was sold where I live, but it isn't so no luck on that front.
Hey buddy where can i get electrical flux
From a Flux Capacitor,maybe?
@@samborez8089 true
"That's gonna be your best connection"
Lineman splice: "Bruh"
@@restopesto9448 saaame, it's amazing, never had an issue with it.
Thanks this was helpful. Isn't the heat shrink tubing already weatherproof/water resistant? If so, then why would we need to use the silicone paste?
I have to say, quite frankly, that was one of the most beautiful videos I have ever seen.
You can also use the side of the soldering iron (gun in your case) to shrink the tubing. That is what I use and it works just fine. Just rub it over the top of the tubing - yup, rub it.
underneath gives a better spread
Something that most people don’t know is that there is massive in-depth technology on just soldering.
I found out just how much when I went through training in order to be Government certified to work on satellites.
No, I have never worked on satellites ... but I could. I just wanted the education for myself.
I’m kinda nerdy that way. :)
Nice video - one of the best soldering ones that I’ve seen. Thanks
very helpful tutorial! thanks for taking the time to share!!
I worked as an electrician and this method is so time consuming and, in 99.9% of the jobs, unwarranted that titling it "Like a pro" is pretty funny. More like: "How to solder wires like a control freak".
I'd recommend a pen style soldering tool, they are easier to handle, lighter and less likely to break than a big solder gun, they are wireless too so you aren't limited by cable lengths. Also, shrink tubes are enough to insulate the wire most of the times, unless they are gonna be directly exposed and you live in an area really damp and with frequent winds that rattle the cable all day, and if you leave the wire in those conditions, that silicone won't do anything anyways. Also, we just used a plain old lighter to shrink them, no need to add yet another tool when you're trying to solder hundreds of wires, it just takes time and costs even more than just something you can put in your pocket.
quick, clean, and to the point. Thanks for the tutorial.
QUICK!!!!????? this shoulda taken 30 seconds
A 20+ yr Electronics Tech that solders 300 pin micro connectors for the F18 reviewed my solder job following your video and said "your solder joint looks d@#n good!". Thanks, it had been a couple decades since i tried last and so was hesitant. I bought a little helping hands with alligator hands and magnifier at #harborfreight for dirt cheap like 5$ i think. I ended up adding the shrink tube on the alligator clips after the 1st round because they do bite into the wire that was a great idea. Thank you to you and your granddad who took time to teach you things in life
I do agree with you on how to heat shrink tube. I have very close friends of mine that are Master mechanics and they even have some sort of special certificate for automotive wiring. When a solder a connection and put a piece of shrink tube on all of them use a cigarette lighter. I tried that a few times and it never worked out well for me. Also you do the same thing that I do before shrinking a tube around it. We just use different brands of dielectric grease. I'm definitely going to pick up a bottle of what you were using. I have the shop size dielectric grease it comes in a tube. that brush that you have I buy them and big bags from harbor freight. I'm glad to see that you use the soldering iron that you did. I have the same sort of one as yours and really never figured out how to use it correctly. It was my father's and it's almost as old as I am and that's saying something. I never did ask him to show me how to use it. I always had a cheap one from radio shack. I enjoyed your video and look forward to watching other ones.
You can find heat shrink tubing that has glue on the inside. It oozes out and seals at the edge. Also I like to get a high shrink ratio so its more versatile, such as soldering two wires on one side to a single wire on the other. That way a larger tube can shrink around the single wire, yet be large enough to slide over the two wires.
Hello there👋👋,how are you doing today?hope you’re doing well?God bless you!!❤
The 3-1 marine type heat shrink works well. It also hardens afterwards, good for some applications not so for others.
It's actually a good idea to touch the soldering iron tip so there is a thermal connection between the wire and the soldering iron. After there is a good thermal connection feed the solder into the wire and the solder will wick through the wire. For the rest it's a good video, I like the silicone trick
Really clear, to the point video , especially for beginners, greetings from Egypt
Great face for radio. Great voice for a faceless announcing.
What a great idea I never ever thought of the silicone inside after it soldered
That's a really great way to ensure joins won't break, but unfortunately it's a bit unrealistic in a lot of scenarios wherethe length of this solder joints is sometimes the whole wire length we have to work. In those cases what i do is try to peel the cables around the same length, make a cross, and twist them in opposite directions, which makes for a pretty solid joint as well in very tight spaces. I'd like to try and apply what was shown here though.
4:08 "Woah, that took a long time to... heat up, there."
7:15 *Dragon-laughs icicles...*
This was very good, I trust you. It was nice to finally see a really well put together helping hands video on soldering that I could use. I would love to see you do one about the pin connectors on a lot of circuit boards with the hole in it. If you could show how to do the hook on the wire trick and get the proper blob on video that would be great! Terrific work! This video was great! 👍💯😎👋
Hello there👋👋,how are you doing today?hope you’re doing well?God bless you!!❤
I’ve always been a sloppy solderer ;)
This was a great video, I’m inspired to step up my game!
Thanks!
Anybody else get the feeling this guy learns something and, 20 minutes later, makes a video 'teaching" others?
Pretty sure that's the basis of his entire channel haha.
@@Andy-im3kj Yep - and why not? Seems to be working. Might motivate those with higher skills to do a proper instructional.
Wheres your video on soldering? " cricket ,, cricket "
Let's see how many likes you get on you cricket remark. Friggin' fanboys.
he does not have a clue!
You can also buy special heat shrink that have adhesive on the ends so there's no need for the silicone
Hot glue, to be precise, yes.
As a little note, clean off the rosin flux with rubbing alcohol before you put the shrink tubing on. The rosin is acidic and will eventually eat through the wires.
This didn't end up being quite what I needed to find, but was still fascinating and I watched through regardless.
ok, so to be clear, you don't put loctite on the wires to keep them from coming apart?
rjtumble only put on the loctite when you are using an arc welder °F4000 and a Helium shield.
god damnit! lol
LOL 😆 👋 to the Welder !
Not the worst way. Cyanoacrylate has good tensile (pulling) strength but a bunch have poor shear/modulous (flex). For prototype electronics its fine. But something that is inside an engine or say phone charger cable; probably not so much.
In this particular situation, I would recommend taking a swig of loctite prior to the challenge.
I like the twist you made with the wires. Keeps it in line. But soldering takes to long. It needs to be faster 2-3 seconds. In and out.
This video was exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
I really hope not
Nice touch with the alligator clips, I tend to use the side of the soldering iron to shrink the wrap, saves on another tool out of the box.
Cody, in practice any application where there is a chance for wire movement it is better to use crimp connectors. In the marine and aircraft industry soldering wires is not allowed unless the wire is supported and not allowed to move.
There is no doubt that a solder connection provides the best connection. It come down to the movement of the wires.
Also if you are using core solder there is no need to use paste on the wires. Never use acid core solder on electrical connections either
Dave White stfu no one cares.
Crimping is NOT better for splicing wires; solder is preferred method. If you have enough movement in the wire that solder is going to break, the wire is going to break anyway. Signed UH-1H crewchief!
It is not allowed in the NEC either. Current will heat the solder and it will fail. If you use in automotive I don't think it would be a problem if the conductor is large enough and your current is limited by a small amp fuse.
He's obviously talking for 12v applications, he did say trailer.....
Terry Pendergrass - I've just looked at the FFA's Aircraft Electrical Wiring Interconnect System (EWIS) Best Practices, and it says nothing about soldering being a preferred splice method. What published standards do UH-1H crews work to?
Despite some of the comments below I appreciate this video and learned some things. Thank you. Have a great day!.
yea soldering 2 different colours together
I've always twisted the wires together before soldering but not like this. The best tip ever. Thanks.
Clear. As good as TH-cam gets. Big thumbs up.
Not too shabby for an amateur.
Here are a few tips for beginners:
Since the other ends of the wires are likely connected to something, you may want to slip the heat shrink material down one wire before soldering. WS was lucky and had an open end to do this with.
Flux isn't always needed, but is helpful to promote good solder flow. Good quality solder is a plus.
Steer away from solder that has an acid base. That is a specialized type and not used for normal solder jobs.
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Wow! Put ten people in a room and ask them to demonstrate their method of joining two wires and you'll probably get any number of variations covering from one end of the spectrum to the other. The only constant will be that each person is convinced that their way is the "right way". Sometimes, it boils down to simply making a repair with what you have and where you are at the time of needed repair and sometimes you are in your shop with the tools and time to make a better job of it. Cody simply showed you a decent way that works - be glad!
Robert
Yes, but he said "like a pro"
great - really straightforward and simple demo
I do a let of electronic stuff. I also use heat shrinkable tubing a lot. The problem I have is that after shrinking the middle portion of the tubing becomes thinner and shows the wire joint there. I think using the silicone paste will solve this problem and look nicer.
Nice tip!! Thanks.
I was taught this as the birdcage long ago looks good but crimp and sealed wire hold up better to high vibration
I tried soldering like this when I was Jack's age, around 50 years ago. I had just upgraded from soldering with a copper tipped, gas flame heated, soldering iron.
Do watch other channels showing other soldering equipment before spending your money. You will save money in the long run.
I was trained that a good crimp joint is better than a solder joint. Look to industry for examples.
Nice tip about the shrink tubing on the alligator clips.