Steve used Lanoguard on ours and when we took it to the garage this week the owner said to him that theres no rust and it looks great underneath. Really good for a ford. he said our 2004 van will last longer than the 2064 van that was also there!! They are solid built!
Waxoyl thick syrup that is heated and applied with a compressor works very well on non-rusted metal. Sticks and stays for years. Lanoguard, I have no experience of but am skeptical. Bilt Hamber does a cavity wax (for inside cavities) Dynax S50 which comes with a 60 cm long straw for getting inside long box sections. Supposed to last for years and lab testing shows it to be far superior to anything else, although, technically, it's a cavity treatment rather than an exposed surface treatment. They also do Dynax UB and UC which are waxoyl equivalents and thicker than lanoguard. My experience with zinc primer, and 2k paint has been that it's great on sills and such, but once you start applying this to really harsh places like wheel wells, the paint just falls off. In this case, I'd use Waxoyl or preferably Dynax UC and apply in multiple layers until it's thick. Then check every year and reapply as necessary. For ancillary stuff like alternators, accessories, parts in the engine bay, XCP Rust Blocker is supposed to be very good. Top performance for motorcycle protection where you are looking for an effective, thin-film product.
@@DKGoesWild You're welcome. There are more modern products than Waxoyl, that may be better, although I have not fully experienced them, and have had good results from Waxoyl that was applied to clean surfaces. Bilt Hamber gets good reviews. This time around, I am going to apply Dynax UB to the exposed areas (instead of waxoyl) and Dynax S50 inside box sections. When you have a weld repair done, it is essential to stop it from rusting inside out. I would get access to the back of it, by drilling a hole, or finding access, and use S50 and the straw to spray in the cavity. And in other cavities in general.
Ive always used waxoil i sprayed the underside of mine a few year back and its remained rust free, i have to reapply it to the wheel arches every year as it wears aways with what the wheels kick up and throw against it but so far so good, i use the tin verion and paint it on
Does Jazz complain she married a five year old sometimes? Do you answer "Too late to complain! You did!" There is a Henkel product-Teroson. I read about it in 50ties literature. Seems to be still produced, so you would be able to have something on the car that is even older than Nellie. So, are you sure you should do right half and left half? Shouldn't you have front and back half? If one side rusts away, it will just fall over, whereas iff the back rusts off, you could cut up another van and weld it together. And if the front rusts away, same proceduer but with a stronger engine? Still I will try to persuade you to buy a stalwart ;-) Did you explain to Jezz that you probably will not rust away now? Give my regards to Jezz!
@@DKGoesWild Should get you so many views you can buy a spanking new GIANT Notorhome. Could I interest you in a stalwart in that case? I would help paint it pink, to sooth Jezz, bring my own brush. Would be all the rage now-oh, it would self define as "electrical vehicle"-no extra charges, then.
Steve used Lanoguard on ours and when we took it to the garage this week the owner said to him that theres no rust and it looks great underneath. Really good for a ford. he said our 2004 van will last longer than the 2064 van that was also there!! They are solid built!
Love the garage just like mine 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks
Waxoyl thick syrup that is heated and applied with a compressor works very well on non-rusted metal. Sticks and stays for years.
Lanoguard, I have no experience of but am skeptical.
Bilt Hamber does a cavity wax (for inside cavities) Dynax S50 which comes with a 60 cm long straw for getting inside long box sections. Supposed to last for years and lab testing shows it to be far superior to anything else, although, technically, it's a cavity treatment rather than an exposed surface treatment. They also do Dynax UB and UC which are waxoyl equivalents and thicker than lanoguard.
My experience with zinc primer, and 2k paint has been that it's great on sills and such, but once you start applying this to really harsh places like wheel wells, the paint just falls off. In this case, I'd use Waxoyl or preferably Dynax UC and apply in multiple layers until it's thick. Then check every year and reapply as necessary.
For ancillary stuff like alternators, accessories, parts in the engine bay, XCP Rust Blocker is supposed to be very good. Top performance for motorcycle protection where you are looking for an effective, thin-film product.
Thanks will check some of that out
@@DKGoesWild You're welcome. There are more modern products than Waxoyl, that may be better, although I have not fully experienced them, and have had good results from Waxoyl that was applied to clean surfaces. Bilt Hamber gets good reviews. This time around, I am going to apply Dynax UB to the exposed areas (instead of waxoyl) and Dynax S50 inside box sections.
When you have a weld repair done, it is essential to stop it from rusting inside out. I would get access to the back of it, by drilling a hole, or finding access, and use S50 and the straw to spray in the cavity. And in other cavities in general.
Ive always used waxoil i sprayed the underside of mine a few year back and its remained rust free, i have to reapply it to the wheel arches every year as it wears aways with what the wheels kick up and throw against it but so far so good, i use the tin verion and paint it on
Thanks think the painting on may be a good approach next time
Can you link the waxoyl spray you used I can’t find black with the long nozzle
got mine from amazon amzn.to/3CdgQXX, the straw does make getting into all the gaps much better
I need to get under my mx 5 to treat it but im scared of what ill find 😰😂
Know that feeling
Does Jazz complain she married a five year old sometimes?
Do you answer "Too late to complain! You did!"
There is a Henkel product-Teroson.
I read about it in 50ties literature.
Seems to be still produced, so you would be able to have something on the car that is even older than Nellie.
So, are you sure you should do right half and left half?
Shouldn't you have front and back half?
If one side rusts away, it will just fall over, whereas iff the back rusts off, you could cut up another van
and weld it together.
And if the front rusts away, same proceduer but with a stronger engine?
Still I will try to persuade you to buy a stalwart ;-)
Did you explain to Jezz that you probably will not rust away now?
Give my regards to Jezz!
the video in 12 months time when it falls over will be funny however ;-)
@@DKGoesWild Should get you so many views you can buy a spanking new GIANT Notorhome.
Could I interest you in a stalwart in that case? I would help paint it pink, to sooth Jezz, bring my own brush. Would be all the rage now-oh, it would self define as "electrical vehicle"-no extra charges, then.
Why don’t you invest in a pressure washer? Also jack the van up and remove the wheels.
Have one but it stopped working
Lanaguard needs doing annually, and it works
so does Waxoyl
@@DKGoesWild Should have used that on myself decades ago-am a bít rusty with creaking joints by now ;-)
Lanoguard offer on top gear is the best price 😊
Wax oil every time
did feel like it was thicker but it was a nightmare to apply, have you tried both?
@@DKGoesWild basically anything that puts a barrier over rust will stop it obviously the thicker the better even just old engine oil will work
Lanoguard 100% happy use last year and look great
Good to hear
No way hes getting under that van
lol that is what ramps are for
lanoguard is good but you need to do it yearly good vid
Thanks, most products require annual treatment