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Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. Great to see someone else has the same idea. It's a great surface and recovers from dents. Cheers SteveO

@@theoutbackshed Right or wrong I also used the Aluminium Floating Floor edge Bunnings sells to stop the edge chipping. Helps keep the tiny bits where I want them. See how yours holds up 👍

Thanks mate, I'll let you know how it wears. I did think of making a timber edging but shied away from it at this time. It may be an option for a later upgrade, Cheers SteveO

I heard it from Wendy Harmer - Q. What's the same about men and a cork floor? A. Lay them properly in the first place and they're yours for life.

I like that. good thought.....

Thanks Matty, The tool setting stand will be very useful going forward. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure which footage you're referring to but I presume its the drill being almost stationary at 16:30. That's caused by 'The Wagon-wheel Effect". "If you take a series of pictures of the spinning object, the position of the lines will change slightly in each one. Each picture is one frame in the video. If the object completes a single rotation in between one frame and the next, the lines will be in exactly the same position in both frames - it will look like they haven’t moved at all. The same will apply if the object completes exactly two rotations, or 100 rotations, between one frame and the next. Even if the object is spinning, if its rotation matches perfectly with the frame rate, it will appear to be stationary in a video. If the object completes slightly less than a full rotation between frames, the lines will look like they’re slightly behind where they were in the previous frame. This gives the illusion of spinning backwards. If the object keeps spinning faster and faster, eventually the lines become blurred enough that the effect disappears, as we can no longer differentiate the individual lines". Comment ref: cosmosmagazine.com/science/mathematics/sos-wagon-wheel-effect/ Hope this helps. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. Actually, I ordered some 5mm PU belt material yesterday. I think it's either Optibelt or Fenner. I think this would be better than the O ring material I used. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the compliment. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. I would live a Milford Super 7, but they are unobtainable. Cheers SteveO

Thanks mate. Cheers SteveO

Thanks. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. Your observations are right. I will improve the drive system and I think it will be a useful but specialised lathe. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. And thanks for being s supplier of parts. The motor and controller are key to the success of this project. Cheers SteveO

You're welcome

Thanks for the comment. I'll check them out.

Hi, Thanks for the comment and the observation. It's a SANDVIK R300-025A20-10M double insert end mill. It has two R300-1032 inserts and a max RPM of 28,500. Its a nice end mill. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. Your observations are correct. I previous viewer made the same comment and I went back and flat milled the bottom of the cap screw seats. The holes are large enough as the chuck only has 0.5mm of movement which is 0.25mm each side of centre and that is enough to bring the chuck into alignment. The final result of <1 micron is very pleasing. When torquing the screws up the chuck did align and stay in place. One benefit of user comments is the capacity to gain insights from others (like yourself) and integrate those suggested improvements. I did put a witness mark on the chuck to allow for the same mounting alignment each time the chuck is mounted. I have only used the chuck once since I made it but it is a real joy to use. Very good for smaller precision work than big heavy pieces. Thanks again for your observations. Cheers SteveO

Thanks mate, I appreciate your comment. Cheers SteveO

Thank you for that. Cheers SteveO

Hi, Thanks for the comment. I haven't used it yet as I'm still in the process of setting it up. The power supply is thermally protected but if heat does become an issue I'll install a fan and some vents in the enclosure. Stay tuned. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. I used Caswell black oxide solution and penetrating sealant (oil). Here's the link: www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/black-oxide-kit-bo1 Cheers SteveO

@@theoutbackshed Thanks

Hi and thanks for the comment. The machined bar registered 24.921mm on the micrometer, the ball burnished reading was 24.918mm. That's a reduction in 0.003mm or 3 microns. Different metals would likely give different results. 1020 steel would likely not work harden but I would expect other metals like 1045; 4141 and Stainless Steel likely would show an increase in surface hardness. Cheers SteveO

​@@theoutbackshedthanks that's something I've been wondering, what about brass would that harden at all?

Thanks for the comment. It's relatively easy to get a good finish on brass so I'm not sure I would burnish it. That said, it would be interesting to find out if it would work harden. I have my doubts that it would. Cheers SteveO

Hi and thanks for the comment. The machined bar registered 24.921mm on the micrometer, the ball burnished reading was 24.918mm. That's a reduction in 0.003mm or 3 microns. Not sure how repeatable this would be and I did expect it to change on different materials. Cheers SteveO

@@theoutbackshed amazing, thank you so much for taking the time to reply. thats basically negligible for almost everything i do, so will definitely experiment with this technique.

Thanks for the comment. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. No, I haven't bought a toe jack yet, it's still on my list. The Colchester is running as well as it has ever run, certainly as accurate as it was when new. It has been looked after and well maintained, I doubt that there would be an original one left in the world that would be as good. I bought the Toolmaster because I wanted a bigger heavier lathe, I would have liked a Colchester Mascot but they are price prohibitive. Even the Jesco Major which for all intents and purposes is the same machine, is also too expensive. I assessed the Toolmaster as being the best of the offerings from Taiwanese manufacturers for the size I wanted. I am very happy with it and it performs very well. I am building up a good collection of tooling for it and I expect to start a new project shortly to build Tailstock Chucks. Keep watching! By the way, I enjoy your channel and 'm a subscriber. Cheers SteveO

@@theoutbackshed Well bugger me, it’s a small world. I hope to have a video out soon with my new to me Colchester Triumph 2000 which I hope to finish installing today. Thanks for subscribing to my channel. Stu. Ps, where are you located.

Thanks for the comment and the compliment. For me video production is also a hobby, this is an opportunity to blend interests to produce the best content I can. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment, much appreciated. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment. I understand that a genuine diamond burnisher can be purchased for around A$400 but that's beyond my budget, however, the opportunity in this project was to see if a diamond wheel dresser could be setup to perform this job. As the video showed it was not successful probably due to the pointy nature of the diamond rather than having. smooth end. It was a fun build though and I view it as still a work in progress. Cheers SteveO

Thank you. Cheers SteveO

Thanks Aaron, Nice to have you on board. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the comment and the compliment. Cheers SteveO

Thanks for the compliment and the subscription. Cheer SteveO