Really great, Dennis! Your presentation is very clear with lots of useful details and hints. The design seems excellent. This is a lot of design and trial work you've done - this will be invaluable to Raymarine tiller pilot owners (who want to save or protect their units)! I'm starting now on your fix for mine. I set up a Printables and Onshape account and have the all the files. Now I have to find a 3D printshop (that will print PETG) and inquire which file formats they prefer.
Just a few comments. You need to film the units with the camera overhead with good lighting. Basically all we can see is some black shapes that are not clear. I am really interested to see clearly what you have made. Another point. When I watched your last sailing video it seemed that the tillerpilot was hunting much more than necessary. It was a calm day and there seemed to be continuous activation of the drive unit. This can run down a battery faster than you imagine. Not a problem when motoring. Also, it is noisy and can overheat the unit in hot weather. Try to set the parameters so the unit operates less. I know it is a hassle , but it is worth it. One more thing that I discovered was that the original fitting of the tillerpilot on my boat had the centre of the stroke 100mm to one side. I am presently making up a removable pin mount to set the pivot pin so the centre of stroke fits the tiller in the central position. It was set up like this originally because of the distance between the coaming and the tiller. Thanks for your effort and Happy sailing with such a neat looking Tri. gary
Yes, good tip, thank you. today is a calm day and I will see if I can't adjust the settings to make it more relaxed. I checked the geometry of the mounting pin on my boat before I mounted the unit and it was spot on. Only thing I added was the lowering bracket on the underside of the tiller. Yes, I only noticed the lighting afterwards, I think I can set it to manual exposure, that will probably be less glaring than the constant exposure hunting. I don't really have any way of mounting the phone overhead. I gave away all my camera and lighting gear after my photography hobby petered out some years ago. A decent lighting boom would have been great for this! I can make a short desktop video of the 3D model. It has animation so you can see the movement.
Hi Dennis, do you mind sharing a wiring diagram. You mentioned you cut off the middle legs on the limit switch, that differs from Gary's presentation. Perhaps you are wiring them differently.
Hi Dennis, I'm looking at both your and Gary's version of this mod. I'm new to 3D printing though! Looking at local printing services that can do it in PETG they all have an infill option - 20%, 50%, 100%? I'll try to do my own research, but any clues gratefully received! Thanks.
Really great, Dennis! Your presentation is very clear with lots of useful details and hints. The design seems excellent. This is a lot of design and trial work you've done - this will be invaluable to Raymarine tiller pilot owners (who want to save or protect their units)! I'm starting now on your fix for mine.
I set up a Printables and Onshape account and have the all the files. Now I have to find a 3D printshop (that will print PETG) and inquire which file formats they prefer.
Very interesting to see a different approach.👌
It's crazy how many things you are good at! Misha
Thanks man, I do my best!
Just a few comments.
You need to film the units with the camera overhead with good lighting.
Basically all we can see is some black shapes that are not clear.
I am really interested to see clearly what you have made.
Another point.
When I watched your last sailing video it seemed that the tillerpilot was hunting much more than necessary.
It was a calm day and there seemed to be continuous activation of the drive unit.
This can run down a battery faster than you imagine. Not a problem when motoring.
Also, it is noisy and can overheat the unit in hot weather.
Try to set the parameters so the unit operates less. I know it is a hassle , but it is worth it.
One more thing that I discovered was that the original fitting of the tillerpilot on my boat had the centre of the stroke 100mm to one side. I am presently making up a removable pin mount to set the pivot pin so the centre of stroke fits the tiller in the central position.
It was set up like this originally because of the distance between the coaming and the tiller.
Thanks for your effort and Happy sailing with such a neat looking Tri.
gary
Yes, good tip, thank you. today is a calm day and I will see if I can't adjust the settings to make it more relaxed.
I checked the geometry of the mounting pin on my boat before I mounted the unit and it was spot on. Only thing I added was the lowering bracket on the underside of the tiller.
Yes, I only noticed the lighting afterwards, I think I can set it to manual exposure, that will probably be less glaring than the constant exposure hunting.
I don't really have any way of mounting the phone overhead. I gave away all my camera and lighting gear after my photography hobby petered out some years ago. A decent lighting boom would have been great for this!
I can make a short desktop video of the 3D model. It has animation so you can see the movement.
Great job!!!!
just got the part from the printer!
Hi Dennis, do you mind sharing a wiring diagram. You mentioned you cut off the middle legs on the limit switch, that differs from Gary's presentation. Perhaps you are wiring them differently.
Hi Dennis, I'm looking at both your and Gary's version of this mod. I'm new to 3D printing though! Looking at local printing services that can do it in PETG they all have an infill option - 20%, 50%, 100%? I'll try to do my own research, but any clues gratefully received! Thanks.
20% is fine
Did you also print the pull rod in PETG?
Nope, I bent it from a 316l welding rod, teally thin stuff.