Hey Ryan you should do a video explaining how different weights of diff fluid affect driving and what’s ideal for different track conditions. Would be good to hear your opinion on it.
Ryan, love your videos! This is something I have done myself and agree, those parts are small. Tricky when you have big hands. One thing to note. When crimping the ends on pay attention to how the ends match up with one another. You don't want to have to twist one wire 180 degrees to make it align properly. Follow the natural path of the wire. I think one thing you might have been able to show a bit more of is the crimping part. Show which direction the part you're crimping fits in the tool. When I first started I kept placing them in the tool upside down.
This was a tough one for me as I didn't have a good close up shot to work with. I did my best to explain what I couldn't show! Thanks for the feedback :)
Although I agree that better close how-to shots can be more beneficial, since my rebuilt Channel only has barely fancy slideshows and edited Bits of other material (until I can afford a decent Camera again), I don't have a Horse in this Race!! 😜 I do appreciate very much, you taking the time to share Pro Tips, that most would NEVER do (especially back in the 80's and 90's, when I Raced)!! As I'm trying to crawl back in, your Channel has really helped me play catch up! 😉👍👍
Another method to shorten wires of you don't have a crimping tool and your comfortable with a soldering iron: pull open you servo and desolder the wires, cut said wires to the appropriate length, then solder back in place and put the servo back together. This is how I've always done it since I don't have the crimping tool.
crimp s the way to go. solder is brittle, especially in this type of application (lengthen / shorten / rewire). foolproof to the crimp, after crimping, just a gentle tug. that thing shouldn't move at all. If it does, just undo the crimp, get a new connector and recrimp.
@@waynekerr67 you can’t crimp wires to the PCB. If you truly want custom length wires, you have to replace the original servo wires with your own custom length ones. In order to do this you have to desolder the original wires from the PCB and solder on your custom length wires. The other end still has the servo connector like normal. Maybe I’ll have to make a video so that you better understand what I’m saying.
Great video Ryan. Having the proper wire length is always a challenge. No soldering required on the JST plugs so the process is simple. Thanks for showing us how the pins are positioned and attached to not only the conductor but also the insulation. Always a good idea to tug on a crimped connection just to be sure it's good.👍👍
In the example you show in you video the plug should only go around the wire but is also goes around some of the insulation. Like you say in the video one section of the plug should go around the insulation the other the wire. Just your example is not exactly right. The other is some of the crimp tools have click stops and you can insert the plug/connector into the tool and close it to the first click which slightly bends the plug like you did by hand and also holds the plug in place. Much easier if you have one of these. I use the "IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins" which costs about $25 on amazon. Thanks for all you videos Ryan, they are incredibly helpful for a beginner.
This just emphasizes my reasoning when I see people’s messy wiring at the track when I say that they may want to clean it up a bit, and that I’d be happy to help them, when they say it’ll all be fine, then they chew up their wires and short out everything by getting their wires caught in their center diff/slipper assembly and things coming unsoldered because of bad joints within a minute of the first qualifying/practice lol.
With the crimping tool if some are still confused the bottom Jaw of crimper holds the connector and usually if you look half the jaw is slightly larger to accommodate the shelded side of the wire. The top teeth looking jaw does the crimping to push the connector down into the shelding and into the strands of wire. I always crimp once then release it leaving the wire and connector in crimper and crimp a secound time. My crimper is different and better sorry to say. Then have a separate wire striper, but I work on Vehicles as well!!
A huge bravo for the explanation level. You are very detailed and helpful when showing a process. And a tip from my experience. Always leave enough wire left because some times if anything goes wrong and you need to strip more of that wire you to catch you should have some room for error. And as i always recommend people, measure twice or more and cut once :)
You can also pre tint the wire with some solder then just heat up the plug and you have the crimped part and it’s soldered to the plug for extra security and conductivity.
Thanks for this...about to embark on this modification as I’ve recently started Club racing just before COVID hit...and my wires look like that spaghetti out of that ‘Lady and the Tramp’ cartoon 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ ...wish me luck lol
I see you have wireless receiver... however I was trying figure a way to do my receiver antena? I wrapped the antena wire around itself, and put heat shrink around all of it. I then servo taped it to the top of the my servo, by the receiver. (serpent srx2 mh) It looks clean and will work well I believe! Thanks Ryan! You should try Highest brand servos, I use a Highest DS 700, it is pretty good, .06 transit time @7.4v!
46th, and I really don't care!!! 😜😂😂😂 From what I remember about most JST Plugs, the only critical one would be the ESC to Receiver.... Get those mixed up, and the better possibility is, you'll fry the Receiver. I've HEARD (and we all know how that goes!), that most ESCs have Circuit protection, where it just won't work if wired incorrectly. I wouldn't bet my expensive Electronics on it though!! I'm just glad I still run Red, White and Black Wires... Excellent Video again, Ryan!! 👍👍🍻🍺😎 Carmine 💥 ⛽
Now....... I used to be known as "Captain Overkill". 😱 Many times when I shortened Servo Wires, after crimping - I would take the tiniest drop of Flux, and the quickest dab of Solder, and actually Solder the Wire to the new Tab!! Yes, maybe Overkill... But I never had one come loose, and glitching was barely there. And this was back in the Day of *AM Radio!!!* 😫😣😱
Idk if this has been commented yet. On the subject of polarity: going from the outside of the receiver, the order is ground, power, signal. So if you invert a servo, all you do is not power it up and putting the signal to 0. If you invert the ESC, i am not sure, but generally shorting the signal to ground should not hurt the receiver. On Nitro cars where you have a 2-pin battery, if you invert that, all bets are off. I have made that mistake on some spectrum receiver and it was fine. I don't recommend it esp. on a nitro car because that might fry electronics if it is not protected by diodes. but on electric cars it should not hurt your hardware.
Hey Ryan, great explanation. I know it's approaching 3 years on this video and you've probably addressed this by now but I noticed the crimp at 8:00 is still slightly off compared to the terminal you pulled out at 6:08. Note that you don't want the shielding within the inner-crimp as that's only supposed to make contact with the wire. :) Keep up the great content, I recently found your channel and got my first hobby-grade RC last week.
Great video do you think it would be a good idea to drop a small drop of solder on the end of the wire to make sure you have a good contact? Keep up the how to video's they help a great deal.
Hey Ryan. What is your knowledge when it comes to the Reedy warranty? I building a b74 soon and dont want to void my warranty on my 510r buy shortening the rx leads or the capacitor leads.
Hey Ryan hope to see you here in Port St. Lucie for the force series next weekend. Quick question what do you use for keeping the electronics down to the chassis? Just simple double sided tape or do you guys have a trick?
You should be putting solder on that crimp on the wire portion. I am a mechanic do lots of soldering , crimping , plug making. It will secure the wire more and allow less chance of contact loss.
Great video as always! Even tho I drive with different products (tlr and ae and proline and spektrum) But your tips always help and make my cars look dialed and go faster, thanks for the great inspiration you’ve given me in the rc world!
Great videos and a great channel! I notice that you are running Trinity Certified motors but not the Certified Lipos. Do you feel that the certified lipos are wasted with off-road and should be used in a maximum traction situation like on-road? Thanks and keep up the great content!
Hey man, greeeeaat tutorial. Are you connecting motor and esc directly soldered without any bullet plug or any connector? Is it safe? Thank you and please keep making quality content. Your hobby room setup with all the details like aquascape and hanging rack is just like mine. But how yours look so much better idk. Haha. Maybe its the camera you use for recording. Care to share your recording gadget also. Thanks again. Edit: about the camera found it in the description. Sorry
Is there a reason not to just remove a section of wire between the plug and servo - and then use the original connector with some heat shrink tubing over the joint?
Question.. so i see many RCs with the same wires that connect directly from the ESC into the battery like yours on your buggy. What are those called because i cannot for the life of me, find them.
Driving tips and cornering jumping Landing stuff and could you come up to Easley South Carolina to race at Hobby Connection? I hope to meet you maybe in Florida. I'm 10 and learning to race. Ryan D.
I never mess with the transponder wires, those are extremely critical. I've also seen more (pro) drivers miss laps, who cut their wires to shorten, then those who haven't.
Nice video with a lot of good personal tips resulting from personal experiences. I would suggest using weak or temporary double sided tape to position and measure out how the wires will be and marking the ends of the wires as to how they will need be crimped or soldered with a ink marker. There after removing the electronics from the chassis and do all the necessary work on the wires and electronics etc. and then putting them back onto the chassis. The marking inks can usually be removed by way of common RC cleaning solvents so it will not show. Do note that all wires are sort of born with a tendency to go better in a certain way or direction and so make your all the more Pro as in proper, I would suggest working with and not against that wires' innate preference of physical form so to speak. For me, the motor is the only component that I would solder last and on the chassis itself. Just for reference, I should have some photos on my insta @squarewheels_sg for you guys to refer to. Thank you Ryan! 😊😉🔥👍
Lol I do same, but when I crimp to shielding. I trying to get the tips to go into shielding creating another point of contact. Then small piece of heat shrink to finish. And I mean small. Lol
Around 6:48, It is insulation, not shielding, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shielded_cable, please do not call it that lol. They have different purposes and should not be mixed up... Fantastic video BTW.
Hey Ryan you should do a video explaining how different weights of diff fluid affect driving and what’s ideal for different track conditions. Would be good to hear your opinion on it.
How come you have this amount of subs, that editing, shots and stuff seemed very professional, you deserve much more subs dude
Agreed!!
I agree!
Except...this is a very visual hobby and Ryan loves to be in the camera far too much in my opinion.
Ryan, love your videos! This is something I have done myself and agree, those parts are small. Tricky when you have big hands. One thing to note. When crimping the ends on pay attention to how the ends match up with one another. You don't want to have to twist one wire 180 degrees to make it align properly. Follow the natural path of the wire. I think one thing you might have been able to show a bit more of is the crimping part. Show which direction the part you're crimping fits in the tool. When I first started I kept placing them in the tool upside down.
This was a tough one for me as I didn't have a good close up shot to work with. I did my best to explain what I couldn't show! Thanks for the feedback :)
Your videos are great and I thought you did an excellent job cutting between your camera and the cell-phone footage.
Although I agree that better close how-to shots can be more beneficial, since my rebuilt Channel only has barely fancy slideshows and edited Bits of other material (until I can afford a decent Camera again), I don't have a Horse in this Race!! 😜
I do appreciate very much, you taking the time to share Pro Tips, that most would NEVER do (especially back in the 80's and 90's, when I Raced)!! As I'm trying to crawl back in, your Channel has really helped me play catch up! 😉👍👍
Another method to shorten wires of you don't have a crimping tool and your comfortable with a soldering iron: pull open you servo and desolder the wires, cut said wires to the appropriate length, then solder back in place and put the servo back together. This is how I've always done it since I don't have the crimping tool.
crimp s the way to go. solder is brittle, especially in this type of application (lengthen / shorten / rewire).
foolproof to the crimp, after crimping, just a gentle tug. that thing shouldn't move at all. If it does, just undo the crimp, get a new connector and recrimp.
@@waynekerr67 you can’t crimp wires to the PCB. If you truly want custom length wires, you have to replace the original servo wires with your own custom length ones. In order to do this you have to desolder the original wires from the PCB and solder on your custom length wires. The other end still has the servo connector like normal. Maybe I’ll have to make a video so that you better understand what I’m saying.
@@Jongiblets no need, I got you. Gotta do it from the board side of things.
Great video Ryan. Having the proper wire length is always a challenge. No soldering required on the JST plugs so the process is simple. Thanks for showing us how the pins are positioned and attached to not only the conductor but also the insulation. Always a good idea to tug on a crimped connection just to be sure it's good.👍👍
In the example you show in you video the plug should only go around the wire but is also goes around some of the insulation. Like you say in the video one section of the plug should go around the insulation the other the wire. Just your example is not exactly right. The other is some of the crimp tools have click stops and you can insert the plug/connector into the tool and close it to the first click which slightly bends the plug like you did by hand and also holds the plug in place. Much easier if you have one of these. I use the "IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins" which costs about $25 on amazon. Thanks for all you videos Ryan, they are incredibly helpful for a beginner.
Insulation
Thank you for this. I have known how to do this, but I gave up looking for the parts a long time ago. You instructions are very clear.
I love your learning tips. I used to race 28 yrs ago and now I'm getting back into racing and it's all new and different then back then.
This just emphasizes my reasoning when I see people’s messy wiring at the track when I say that they may want to clean it up a bit, and that I’d be happy to help them, when they say it’ll all be fine, then they chew up their wires and short out everything by getting their wires caught in their center diff/slipper assembly and things coming unsoldered because of bad joints within a minute of the first qualifying/practice lol.
6:00 i usually just drop in some flux and solder em.. works great
Thanks so much for this video. It gave my big, dumb, shaky hands the confidence to give it a shot and clean up my builds.
With the crimping tool if some are still confused the bottom Jaw of crimper holds the connector and usually if you look half the jaw is slightly larger to accommodate the shelded side of the wire. The top teeth looking jaw does the crimping to push the connector down into the shelding and into the strands of wire. I always crimp once then release it leaving the wire and connector in crimper and crimp a secound time. My crimper is different and better sorry to say. Then have a separate wire striper, but I work on Vehicles as well!!
I do this by leaving the plug on the end and soldering the shorter wire straight to the board in the esc and servo but i can solder very well.
A huge bravo for the explanation level. You are very detailed and helpful when showing a process. And a tip from my experience. Always leave enough wire left because some times if anything goes wrong and you need to strip more of that wire you to catch you should have some room for error. And as i always recommend people, measure twice or more and cut once :)
You can also pre tint the wire with some solder then just heat up the plug and you have the crimped part and it’s soldered to the plug for extra security and conductivity.
always a great day when i see another video uploaded by you Ryan. thanks for the great content.
Thanks for this...about to embark on this modification as I’ve recently started Club racing just before COVID hit...and my wires look like that spaghetti out of that ‘Lady and the Tramp’ cartoon 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ ...wish me luck lol
I like that battery connection method. What do you call that?
Super nice man. Thanks for the upload. I only have crawlers but wiring is wiring no matter what kind of rc.
Greetings from Guatemala
rccrawlerGuate 502 awesome! Glad it works for you too 🏁
Are these the same pins for the sensored wires for the esc to motor?
I see you have wireless receiver... however I was trying figure a way to do my receiver antena? I wrapped the antena wire around itself, and put heat shrink around all of it. I then servo taped it to the top of the my servo, by the receiver. (serpent srx2 mh) It looks clean and will work well I believe! Thanks Ryan! You should try Highest brand servos, I use a Highest DS 700, it is pretty good, .06 transit time @7.4v!
46th, and I really don't care!!! 😜😂😂😂
From what I remember about most JST Plugs, the only critical one would be the ESC to Receiver.... Get those mixed up, and the better possibility is, you'll fry the Receiver. I've HEARD (and we all know how that goes!), that most ESCs have Circuit protection, where it just won't work if wired incorrectly. I wouldn't bet my expensive Electronics on it though!! I'm just glad I still run Red, White and Black Wires...
Excellent Video again, Ryan!! 👍👍🍻🍺😎
Carmine 💥 ⛽
Now....... I used to be known as "Captain Overkill". 😱 Many times when I shortened Servo Wires, after crimping - I would take the tiniest drop of Flux, and the quickest dab of Solder, and actually Solder the Wire to the new Tab!!
Yes, maybe Overkill... But I never had one come loose, and glitching was barely there. And this was back in the Day of *AM Radio!!!* 😫😣😱
Thanks Ryan. How about the transponder? Did you cut the wire? I'm using MyLays Transponder.
Love all the vids bro! Best RC content o TH-cam
Great video and awesome tips once again. I had to do a wire replacement like that once before. It definitely takes time and patience.
Idk if this has been commented yet. On the subject of polarity: going from the outside of the receiver, the order is ground, power, signal. So if you invert a servo, all you do is not power it up and putting the signal to 0. If you invert the ESC, i am not sure, but generally shorting the signal to ground should not hurt the receiver. On Nitro cars where you have a 2-pin battery, if you invert that, all bets are off. I have made that mistake on some spectrum receiver and it was fine. I don't recommend it esp. on a nitro car because that might fry electronics if it is not protected by diodes. but on electric cars it should not hurt your hardware.
Hey Ryan, great explanation. I know it's approaching 3 years on this video and you've probably addressed this by now but I noticed the crimp at 8:00 is still slightly off compared to the terminal you pulled out at 6:08. Note that you don't want the shielding within the inner-crimp as that's only supposed to make contact with the wire. :) Keep up the great content, I recently found your channel and got my first hobby-grade RC last week.
Thank you sir, coming from bashing rc’s, this definitely helps.
What is the best AWG size for 1/8 buggy competition ?
Thanks Ryan, I ordered the pliers from A-Main Hobbies.
Hello guys. I use the soldering iron first to solder just a bit the wire. This way is easy to use the pliers and the wire makes a better contact.
Great video do you think it would be a good idea to drop a small drop of solder on the end of the wire to make sure you have a good contact? Keep up the how to video's they help a great deal.
I'm OCD and always wanted to know how to do this so i could fix the only not clean part of my installs. Thanks for this video!
Another good tip: take the wire double when you wanna use the tool to press/crimping. Then you have a lot more wire to get good contact :)
Hey Ryan. What is your knowledge when it comes to the Reedy warranty? I building a b74 soon and dont want to void my warranty on my 510r buy shortening the rx leads or the capacitor leads.
Where do you get the supreme heat shrink you use?
Will this void the warranty on the parts ?
What drive you the first time you done this.. is it looking at other car.. or just cant stand a messy wire.. ,?
That was all helpful good information thanks for all the tips well dun
Hey Ryan hope to see you here in Port St. Lucie for the force series next weekend. Quick question what do you use for keeping the electronics down to the chassis? Just simple double sided tape or do you guys have a trick?
Very tedious! But very rewarding once it's done!
I use non crimp Heat shrink Butt connectors. You just add heat and it actually solders the wires together
Thanks for rhe tips, great vid. Im being lazy but if you have one on soldering brushkess motor wires im gonna wanna see it.
Awesome video 👍🏻 always wondered how to clean up my car and now I know! I’m defiantly going to be doing this to my cars from now on.
That was cool. I never thought of doing that, only curling up the wires.
I noticed that you didn't have your ESC plate screwed to the chassis. Do you simply stick it in place with double sided tape?
You are the Mannnnn! Very informative. Thanks Ryan
You should be putting solder on that crimp on the wire portion. I am a mechanic do lots of soldering , crimping , plug making. It will secure the wire more and allow less chance of contact loss.
I replaced mine and the connectors are too loose. Bumps knock the wires out of the trx. Do you have a brand that you like.
Great video as always! Even tho I drive with different products (tlr and ae and proline and spektrum) But your tips always help and make my cars look dialed and go faster, thanks for the great inspiration you’ve given me in the rc world!
TraxxasMan96 that's awesome dude! Glad they help you 🏁
Great videos and a great channel! I notice that you are running Trinity Certified motors but not the Certified Lipos. Do you feel that the certified lipos are wasted with off-road and should be used in a maximum traction situation like on-road? Thanks and keep up the great content!
Hey man, greeeeaat tutorial. Are you connecting motor and esc directly soldered without any bullet plug or any connector? Is it safe? Thank you and please keep making quality content. Your hobby room setup with all the details like aquascape and hanging rack is just like mine. But how yours look so much better idk. Haha. Maybe its the camera you use for recording. Care to share your recording gadget also. Thanks again.
Edit: about the camera found it in the description. Sorry
Awesome! Especially for the servo! Keep it up brother!
Great video
Personally i just remove bottom plate servo as an example and desolder wite cut resolder done!.
Is there a reason not to just remove a section of wire between the plug and servo - and then use the original connector with some heat shrink tubing over the joint?
Great video! 😎👍🏾
awesome!! im a new bee...cant wait to get my b6.1 D done :)
Ryan can you show JDM how to wire up a Traxxas?
Great video, i went through alot of those connectors as well until i figured it out. But that is a good tool.
Thanks for this video Ryan,helps alot.i did this before and didnt come out to good,but with this video I shouldn't have any problems.
Cool video I been wanting to shorten my wires for a long time now this video has helped for sure thank you.
Nice hat! I love that channel.
Clipping the ESC wire as you are showing here usually voids the warranty on the ESC. Might have been good to have mentioned that.
Great video as always, what fish you got back there?
khevolution Community fish for now! A school of Neons, a pair of Peacock Gudgeons, one Balloon Molly and a couple cherry shrimp 🏁
Such great vids, keep up the good work
Question.. so i see many RCs with the same wires that connect directly from the ESC into the battery like yours on your buggy. What are those called because i cannot for the life of me, find them.
Pretty sure you already know by now. They're called bullets either 4 or 5mm.
Driving tips and cornering jumping Landing stuff and could you come up to Easley South Carolina to race at Hobby Connection? I hope to meet you maybe in Florida. I'm 10 and learning to race. Ryan D.
I did it - Thanks Coach Harris!
Great tutorial
I have used the same kind of tool; only it crimped and not did everything yours does .
Yes you have to take you time in using this crimping tool.
Getting a losi 22s soon!! I'll let you know how it is
Great video Ryan
Helpful video.
I like your video today thanks for showing me a cool way they clean up my RC car
Nice video a little jelly about the donut hat I’m waiting on mine to come
Donut Media is so legit!! Glad you supported their awesome channel :D
Is that a Punisher brushless motor? If it is, how do you like it?
No that was a 8.5t Monster Motor
Doesnt this void your warranty? Other than that, very helpful video!
Warranty is certainly voided by this procedure.
Great work as always!
thecman26 thanks man!
What servo is that?
where do you get the music?
Hi can you make a video about driving tips
karriedaze what tips would you want to hear about?
ryan harris how about some about knowing what kind of diff oil and shock oil to put in with differnet track conditions and how the affect your car
Nice video dude thank for sharing tips
Awesome tips mate!!!
Where does everyone run their antenna wire so it is not sticking out of the body?
Hey Ryan, just a heads-up: The "Plugs and Metal Pins" link you posted is 404 error. Thanks for the great video!
Nice Vid, you got my sub👍
Sanwa? Right on!
Buddies car! Not mine. Futaba fam for life :D
LOL!
Thank you. Very helpful..
I never mess with the transponder wires, those are extremely critical. I've also seen more (pro) drivers miss laps, who cut their wires to shorten, then those who haven't.
They probably just go SO fast that the counter doesn't detect them anymore. Obviously ;P
Common sense plays a part in the process..just saying. It's not hard lol you buy all the tools for making servo wire.
mm hmm
Nice video with a lot of good personal tips resulting from personal experiences. I would suggest using weak or temporary double sided tape to position and measure out how the wires will be and marking the ends of the wires as to how they will need be crimped or soldered with a ink marker. There after removing the electronics from the chassis and do all the necessary work on the wires and electronics etc. and then putting them back onto the chassis. The marking inks can usually be removed by way of common RC cleaning solvents so it will not show. Do note that all wires are sort of born with a tendency to go better in a certain way or direction and so make your all the more Pro as in proper, I would suggest working with and not against that wires' innate preference of physical form so to speak. For me, the motor is the only component that I would solder last and on the chassis itself. Just for reference, I should have some photos on my insta @squarewheels_sg for you guys to refer to. Thank you Ryan! 😊😉🔥👍
Lol I do same, but when I crimp to shielding. I trying to get the tips to go into shielding creating another point of contact. Then small piece of heat shrink to finish. And I mean small. Lol
Great info... but never leave battery plugged in.. can backfeed...
I noticed that as I was editing the video... I saw it and thought "That was dumb" haha
well explained👍🏼
Same here bro got a bag of hundreds with the purchase thinking way to many… before I even worked it out I burned many.
Around 6:48, It is insulation, not shielding, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shielded_cable, please do not call it that lol. They have different purposes and should not be mixed up... Fantastic video BTW.
Just wish you did a video a day!!!
Oh man I would run out of ideas so fast haha
I love having days between each videos,people who are doing that get better quality content out.
I solder mine when I'm done. No problems with connections...
Lol just shorten my servo wires in my 64. But great video though. Love the hat👌
I just opened the servo and then solder to the circuit border
live motion rc you are a brave man haha
Thats what I would do too. I hate crimping those plugs, even worse when its smaller, soldering on the board is just easier
Hay Ryan I’m going to take my b6 to its first race tomorrow
Good luck dude!
Ryan Harris thanks
I came in second overall I was trying to get more traction but I was useing the wrong tires and my glitch buster got stuck in my survo
Try a striper tool and separate cutters. The are terrible there