Elin Your videos have helped me through sooooo many obstacles on my TR 4 restoration. and you have inspired me to try new techniques can't thank you enough! The Spitfire videos are great too. Thank you for taking the time to make such quality and informative videos!
The reason that you are seeing so much bondo is because most people that don't really care about their cars and just want a quick cheap fix. and there are very few real CRAFTSMEN like you left in the business. The shop where I have my TR3B that I am working on is like you. They made proper metal repairs and no bondo globs. I had a TR3 that I bought in Florida that looked great until a year later when the Bondo'd bonnet started coming apart.so it was a mess to fix right. I am learning a lot about metal work from your video's and I really appreciate watching you work your magic.
That is why I would never go and buy a restored car with the idea to just turn the key and drive into the sunset..... I prefer to buy a rusty bucket and do the work myself. I just can't trust the so called "restorers". I know there are Craftsmen that do great job, but I've had my hands on couple British cars in the last 13-14 months and there wasn't even one restored properly. I would kind of understand if someone hides some rust with bondo on their daily driver just to keep it on the road for one more year, but to do that on a 40-50 years old classic. They should have some respect if not to the owner at least to the car, she made it through all those years and deserves to be treated as a VIP
The reasons for all of the bondi repairs from the past are manifold, the skill sets of crash repair shops (quick, cheap turnaround) had declined, amateurs lacked the tools and information, (now overcome by the internet and the rise in instructional vlogs). Suitable tools are on the market and the boomers have money and time. It used to be just the hot rodders who could do this work while the public were expected to take what the repair industry would give them. We don't really want to deal with egotistical rodders with their inbuilt predjudices / preferences and fortuneately the number of body shops willing to work with customers over longer periods of time appears to be growing. I've often thought that access to community workshops where both amateurs and pro's could work side by side would be the best thing for car guys. Colin
WOW you should be very proud of the work you do. I love the fact that you take such pride to do things correctly and professionally. There is only one way to do a job and that is the RIGHT way!!!! Well done sir...take a bow!!!
I appreciate your humility in showing your work as you learn. Thankfully my E30 Bmw convertible is rust free but at least I know what good work should look like from watching you. Love (!) your bondo collection. You can sleep peacefully at night where others may worry their junk work will be discovered one day...
nice...very nice . I always liked the looks of these cars. Could have bought several of them back in the early to mid 80s. Didn't have the tools I have now and now they are hard and expensive to find.
You really have a passion to do good and honest work if you were in the states you would never be at lost for work very nice look forward to your next videos
Well I am actually in Canada (I brought my accent from overseas even though I wanted to leave it there) and I don't miss work. I am always busy and I wish I had more time for my Rusty Beauties. Officially out shop is doing completely different stuff though.
I know, right! I use it just occasionally, but when I use it it saves me a lot of troubles. It is really useful tool. After Pete's videos I also started using the hammering over a wooden or a metal template trick and I make parts, that I didn't even dream about making before. I will show these in the customers TR6 videos (once I find time to edit the hours of raw footage I have....)
Ask Santa! I will tell you a trick. I asked him after the Christmas rush, when he was too tired and bored to say no. He had some leftovers in the trunk of his sled and just handed them to me LOL
Elin, this was a great video. Excellent tutorial on aligning panels. I have a question. I have just finished painting my TR6. I painted with the four panels off, plus the doors off as well (and boot lid for that matter). I am starting to assemble now. I have installed the doors first (like you did), and I am thinking to hold off on the door latch and strikers, until I get the front / rear fenders installed. I was thinking that way, I can align fenders to doors, like you did, and then align the strikers / door latch to door. Is that the correct process?
That is exactly what I would do. The strikers might trick you sometimes by holding the door into a position it doesn't want to be. The striker needs to be adjusted to the door after the door is aligned.
@@RustyBeauties Perfect thanks a lot. My first time doing an auto resto, so appreciate your reply. I’ve just been looking forward at your later videos. I can’t figure out when you fit the exterior door handles / lock. It looks fitted when you did the road test.
Very simple, because the only thing they know how to do is body filler. They can't weld, they can't shape the metal.... so why bother, nobody is going to see it anyways.
Hello Elin, Where are you located? I'm sitting a 76 TR6 and reviewing all the body work that needs to be done. I could use some advise or straight up take it to you for precisely what you are showing in these great series of videos.
The shop is in North York. Are you in Toronto or nearby? We are supposed to get busy with some limousine builds next week and probably we will not be able to take more restorations for the next couple of months, but it depends how serious work your car needs and how fast do you need it done. If you are interested you can come over and see what we do and we can talk. I sent you the phone number of the owner on a PM.
Elin. I'm off of finch and weston road. Not too far from you. The vehicle is at home, but I could come see you one day just to discuss things briefly and explore the possibility. I'm in no immediate rush. Just looking for an estimate for now so I can begin compiling my budget. I can't find the PM you sent. In fact I have no idea if you actually sent it, as I don't even know where to look for it. Never received a TH-cam PM before.
Oh, you are really close then. The PM section is really weird in TH-cam ;) Go to video manager, community, messages. Yes, it is a good idea to come and talk first. Can you also send some pictures to my email? It is ecibg@yahoo.com I will reply there with a phone number and address if you can't find the PM. Thanks! Elin
You could as long as you reinforce it with some metal underneath, because the metal around the hole is usually very pitted and weak. But I wouldn't do that unless there is no other option, because it creates a mess at the back and also I am sure it won't last too long.
I am not really sure, I think it is 18. I usually use cut off metal form our limousine builds. We buy new cargo vans, cut out windows and turn them into limousines, so we have lots of sheet metal that I can use.
thanks Elin, my current car is a finished restoration but I am hoping in the next few years starting with a rougher car and taking it through a full resto. Also what welding wire and setting are you using on your welder?
It is a hobby and unfortunately not always a hobby pays off. This car, in particular, is going to be for sale when ready so the money invested will probably come back, but the labour.... But that is the definition of "hobby" Having fun while doing what you like doing. If it was for money it would be business.
That's a test for my English :) I hope I will be able to explain. Joggle is when you overlap two layers of sheetmetal, but you bend the overlapping part of the bottom one in a specific way so it sits one thickness of the metal lower. This way you end up with a flat surface. Did it make any sense? I did that on the wheel well of my spitfire. You can see it here, but someone cranked he speed too high and it is not really clear th-cam.com/video/l07SgUDTOuM/w-d-xo.htmlm25s
Elin Your videos have helped me through sooooo many obstacles on my TR 4 restoration. and you have inspired me to try new techniques can't thank you enough! The Spitfire videos are great too. Thank you for taking the time to make such quality and informative videos!
Thank you for the nice words Thomas! Is your TR4 finished yet?
The reason that you are seeing so much bondo is because most people that don't really care about their cars and just want a quick cheap fix. and there are very few real CRAFTSMEN like you left in the business. The shop where I have my TR3B that I am working on is like you. They made proper metal repairs and no bondo globs. I had a TR3 that I bought in Florida that looked great until a year later when the Bondo'd bonnet started coming apart.so it was a mess to fix right. I am learning a lot about metal work from your video's and I really appreciate watching you work your magic.
That is why I would never go and buy a restored car with the idea to just turn the key and drive into the sunset..... I prefer to buy a rusty bucket and do the work myself. I just can't trust the so called "restorers". I know there are Craftsmen that do great job, but I've had my hands on couple British cars in the last 13-14 months and there wasn't even one restored properly. I would kind of understand if someone hides some rust with bondo on their daily driver just to keep it on the road for one more year, but to do that on a 40-50 years old classic. They should have some respect if not to the owner at least to the car, she made it through all those years and deserves to be treated as a VIP
The reasons for all of the bondi repairs from the past are manifold, the skill sets of crash repair shops (quick, cheap turnaround) had declined, amateurs lacked the tools and information, (now overcome by the internet and the rise in instructional vlogs). Suitable tools are on the market and the boomers have money and time. It used to be just the hot rodders who could do this work while the public were expected to take what the repair industry would give them. We don't really want to deal with egotistical rodders with their inbuilt predjudices / preferences and fortuneately the number of body shops willing to work with customers over longer periods of time appears to be growing. I've often thought that access to community workshops where both amateurs and pro's could work side by side would be the best thing for car guys. Colin
Inspirer work, great to watch. Cheers Bob
WOW you should be very proud of the work you do. I love the fact that you take such pride to do things correctly and professionally. There is only one way to do a job and that is the RIGHT way!!!! Well done sir...take a bow!!!
Thank you, Gord! I am still learning, so maybe it is not always the right way, but at least I learn from my mistakes!
Excellent video Elin, thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the shrinker and stretcher tools,you do great work.
Thank you Derek!
Thank you for making these videos. I have a TR6 in a bad way.Your teaching us how to tackle each job is so much appreciated..thank you Jay
I appreciate your humility in showing your work as you learn. Thankfully my E30 Bmw convertible is rust free but at least I know what good work should look like from watching you. Love (!) your bondo collection. You can sleep peacefully at night where others may worry their junk work will be discovered one day...
Nice that Santa brought you some friends. I wish I had friends that are both useful and don't talk back!
Yeah, in the shop I prefer friends like this. Too much chit chatting distracts me and slows me down. I love working all by myself.
nice...very nice . I always liked the looks of these cars. Could have bought several of them back in the early to mid 80s. Didn't have the tools I have now and now they are hard and expensive to find.
Thank you! If we only knew in the 80's and 90's that the cars we were scrapping at that time would become classics one day....
You really have a passion to do good and honest work if you were in the states you would never be at lost for work very nice look forward to your next videos
Well I am actually in Canada (I brought my accent from overseas even though I wanted to leave it there) and I don't miss work. I am always busy and I wish I had more time for my Rusty Beauties. Officially out shop is doing completely different stuff though.
I admire your work sir always have
Thanks!
Good work Elin. Your going to love the Shrinker stretcher.
I know, right! I use it just occasionally, but when I use it it saves me a lot of troubles. It is really useful tool. After Pete's videos I also started using the hammering over a wooden or a metal template trick and I make parts, that I didn't even dream about making before. I will show these in the customers TR6 videos (once I find time to edit the hours of raw footage I have....)
Great video Elin. I find your videos a great inspiration for my work
Thank you Roy. And comment like yours inspire me to improve more and more.
Thanks for sharing your videos I love them.
Thank you!
Really great work Elin. Keep it up.
Thanks!
Mad skills!
Very nice to see it done properley
Thank you!
you are really doing some nice metalwork.....
Thank you!
your doing a fine job well done
Thank you, Jim!
Great videos!
Thanks!
I would not hesitate to pay you to restore my car...well done!!
Great job ...Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
well done lad, enjoyed your vid thank you.
Thanks George!
I have them on my wish list 😃
Ask Santa! I will tell you a trick. I asked him after the Christmas rush, when he was too tired and bored to say no. He had some leftovers in the trunk of his sled and just handed them to me LOL
My guess is body gaps on those cars weren't that even even when the cars were brand new in the show room.
Elin, this was a great video. Excellent tutorial on aligning panels. I have a question. I have just finished painting my TR6. I painted with the four panels off, plus the doors off as well (and boot lid for that matter). I am starting to assemble now. I have installed the doors first (like you did), and I am thinking to hold off on the door latch and strikers, until I get the front / rear fenders installed. I was thinking that way, I can align fenders to doors, like you did, and then align the strikers / door latch to door. Is that the correct process?
That is exactly what I would do. The strikers might trick you sometimes by holding the door into a position it doesn't want to be. The striker needs to be adjusted to the door after the door is aligned.
@@RustyBeauties Perfect thanks a lot. My first time doing an auto resto, so appreciate your reply. I’ve just been looking forward at your later videos. I can’t figure out when you fit the exterior door handles / lock. It looks fitted when you did the road test.
Awesome job! I don't understand why someone would do bad work, does it realy save that much time?
Very simple, because the only thing they know how to do is body filler. They can't weld, they can't shape the metal.... so why bother, nobody is going to see it anyways.
Hello Elin, Where are you located? I'm sitting a 76 TR6 and reviewing all the body work that needs to be done. I could use some advise or straight up take it to you for precisely what you are showing in these great series of videos.
The shop is in North York. Are you in Toronto or nearby? We are supposed to get busy with some limousine builds next week and probably we will not be able to take more restorations for the next couple of months, but it depends how serious work your car needs and how fast do you need it done. If you are interested you can come over and see what we do and we can talk. I sent you the phone number of the owner on a PM.
Elin. I'm off of finch and weston road. Not too far from you. The vehicle is at home, but I could come see you one day just to discuss things briefly and explore the possibility. I'm in no immediate rush. Just looking for an estimate for now so I can begin compiling my budget. I can't find the PM you sent. In fact I have no idea if you actually sent it, as I don't even know where to look for it. Never received a TH-cam PM before.
Oh, you are really close then. The PM section is really weird in TH-cam ;) Go to video manager, community, messages. Yes, it is a good idea to come and talk first. Can you also send some pictures to my email? It is ecibg@yahoo.com I will reply there with a phone number and address if you can't find the PM. Thanks! Elin
Could you weld up rust holes or is the metal too weak?
You could as long as you reinforce it with some metal underneath, because the metal around the hole is usually very pitted and weak. But I wouldn't do that unless there is no other option, because it creates a mess at the back and also I am sure it won't last too long.
Someone did a really rubbish job near the boot (tailgate). Looks like they have just put on loads of filler hoping the repair would last.
what gauge metal are you using for patches?
I am not really sure, I think it is 18. I usually use cut off metal form our limousine builds. We buy new cargo vans, cut out windows and turn them into limousines, so we have lots of sheet metal that I can use.
thanks Elin, my current car is a finished restoration but I am hoping in the next few years starting with a rougher car and taking it through a full resto. Also what welding wire and setting are you using on your welder?
I don't understand, who pays this work ??
It is a hobby and unfortunately not always a hobby pays off. This car, in particular, is going to be for sale when ready so the money invested will probably come back, but the labour.... But that is the definition of "hobby" Having fun while doing what you like doing. If it was for money it would be business.
At 9:28 you said Jade Muttley said you should do "joggle" instead of butt welding? What's "joggle"?
(I'm not making fun, I'm very curious what that meant.)
Ok, a little Googling gives me the answer. I'd be afraid that water would get in the seam but if Jade says to do it, I'm going to listen too.
That's a test for my English :) I hope I will be able to explain. Joggle is when you overlap two layers of sheetmetal, but you bend the overlapping part of the bottom one in a specific way so it sits one thickness of the metal lower. This way you end up with a flat surface. Did it make any sense? I did that on the wheel well of my spitfire. You can see it here, but someone cranked he speed too high and it is not really clear th-cam.com/video/l07SgUDTOuM/w-d-xo.htmlm25s
Right, just made fool of myself for nothing, you figured it out already LOL
You didn't make a fool of yourself; you explained it. I'm the one who should be embarrassed...