Yanmar marine diesel engine repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2013
- Troubleshooting and finally fixing a Yanmar 2gm20 marine diesel engine. Removal of Cylinder head, valve lapping, re-assembly and some oil pipe improvisation. I looked for videos of people disassembling the gm's before I attempted this but could not find any. Perhaps this will better inform you what to expect if you are thinking about doing the same. Things learnt - Check mixer elbow every season. Check the oil pipe that runs hidden, behind the engine and before it spews all your oil into the bilge on passage one day!
I'd add, I'm an DIY guy, not a professional mechanic. I didn't find this too hard and managed to expand my tool-kit, probably for less than it'd have costed to get the local mechanic to step on-board. If you have the confidence to do the same, I'm sure you'd find it as rewarding as I did, though obviously at your own risk! :)
Happy sailing. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I'm just doing the same job on my 3GM 30 my oil pipe has the same problem Yanmar want 130 Euro. "Let's build a great engine & install steel oil pipe we can make a fortune when it rusts out" I'm going the copper pipe route, in fact, I will make up some pipes & sell them on E bay. Well done with the rebuild.
Insane, isn't it! Check out the price in the US - Something like $30 if I recall correctly... Let me know if you do make some. I could do with a spare!
I changed every thing same as you and came to same conclusion. Worried about taking cylinder head off . Gonna then give to Machanic
I've been building and repairing engines for over 40 years. I'm guessing you did this without a massive amount of knowledge on this actual engine. The way you approached it is brilliant, the best thing was you were able to think out of the box, learning by doing is the best way. First class work.
Thanks - Much appreciated. This is the most drastic thing I've ever done with an engine, so I'd say so. It was a good learning experience for me.
Great video. I learned a lot and gained further confidence to dive deeper into my 3GM30F engine.
Excellent. I'm glad to hear that. Thank you.
those valve seats where completely gone... what a great outcome to not much amount to work.... only thing i would have done differently is sand the head smooth as well as the block and replace oil seals on the valves even if they didnt need... good job!!!! i have a yanmar but with a turbo and heat exchanger... wish me luck!
Thank you, and yes, those seats certainly explained the lack of compression. Good luck!
i work at thermoking dealer in toronto ont. we have a unit in for head gasket everyday for past 4 years now. and once we change the head and it fails again we change the engine. theses are the 4 cylinder ones though. gotta say yanmar made these engine very simple to take apart.
very good - it amazes me how parts abroad cost peanuts but over here there a right ransom - you need to get your butt over here and fix my poor transit now
I'm going to show your video to some mates who are also doing the marine course. It's a very good, real world description of how to approach problems with this engine. That exhaust elbow seems to be a perennial weak point. Thanks again for posting your experience.
Just stumbled upon this video for the second time (thanks for the first reply). I am now searching for information on how to clean, reset, and adjust my injector (its a yse 8)! Cleaned the fuel, new fuel filter, cleaned the air line and new air filter, cleaned the fuel pump and injector; now injector being supplied with fuel but she will not spray and thus will not run... ...has compression but will NOT run! So my search continues... Oh! btw I remain in awe of your repair!
I used to work with a ex Metropolitan Police Car/Bike Mechanic he used to say when grinding the valves the sound/squeak would give you clue when it was *Done*...
Also years ago we bought a tube swager tool (at a classic bike show it was superb quality but reasonable price) for oil and brake pipes with loads of end fittings we have used dozens of times and saved fortune..
Great job! Sorry I wasn`t there 10 years ago and I would have lended you my set of neway valve seat cutters.
sharp sunny day here in Ireland. But was very wet the past few days. I would torque the head again and do the valve clearances as you say.
These little single and twin cylinder diesels are so easy to work on and I find a lot easier than petrol engines.I always used to think years ago that it was a lot more difficult working on a diesel.I have a little Yanmar L70 I am working on and my word they were a simple design but cracking little diesel.Well done for giving it a go Paul.
I'm doing a diesel course this month and our engine is identical to yours. We took the head off and put it all back together again, similar to your experience. We took the injectors off before removing the head. We solved the problem of tight rocker springs on reassembly, by loosening the valve lash screws first, torquing the head, and at the end readjusting valve lash. We found TDC for each cylinder by moving one full cycle from valve rock.
These are elegantly simple engines. Great video!
well done. looks like you dodged a bullet with finding the oil line before a major failure......
good work.
You made her happy - well done! You're a brave lad and we thank you for taking us along!
I have a 2GM that I will be working on soon. Don't think I'll go as deep into it as you but your video could be useful while I recondition my engine. Thanks.
+W4ABN Another interesting note, your engine doesn't shake much. Mine shakes a LOT when at idle. Maybe I will go deeper into it just to make sure it's all good. Still, great video, I think.
+W4ABN I'm pretty sure that after I did this job, there was a noticeable reduction in the amount of shaking the engine did at idle. It still has a spot at very low idle where I can feel it jumping about a bit. I increase the tick-over very slightly and it's fine though. I might check/adjust the idle speed up a little to avoid that, if it's able to go a little higher and still be OK. Given it's a 2-cyl diesel, I don't think it's every going to be smooth at low rpm, but once in a while when it was in 'shake' mode, it did make me worried a bit!
Really good thanks, quite the adventure! should be good for the one cylinder 1GM too
enjoyed watching this. Your self deprecating manner is refreshing and entertaining and the video is extremely informative as a result. Well done.
Thanks for your comment. Glad you enjoyed it.
It's always the little things that cost the most. Enjoyable video
First class stuff. That engine sounded as sweet as a nut when running. Brilliant, thoughtful and helpful video.
The Achilles Heel of all these engines is the wet exhaust. Diesel car engines are usually OK for well over 200,000 miles or 15 to 20 years but they don't have a gallon of seawater in the silencer. Some Yanmar marine engines such as the YS range have a dry exhaust option which IMHO is a wise choice if the hot muffler problem can be got around.
Great video. This, along with your others, will prove very useful. I maintain 12 pieces of equipment powered by Yanmar diesels.
I currently have one blowing fuel rich white smoke (and only running on 2 cylinders.) First thought was injector stuck open. Replaced and no change. Adjusted valves, no change.
Wide open to any thoughts from you or anyone else.
The motor was upside down for about 30 minutes in an accident.
Thanks
White smoke is normally burning oil? It was not running whilst inverted? I'd imagine a ton of oil built up in places it normally would not. Perhaps it will eventually burn off?
Well done, friend. For your valve spring compression, place a wee but of wood under the valve head, and get a BIG ring spanner and place it over the top of the valve. Press down hard and get a friend to tease the collets out. A wee magnet on a rod (or wooden stick) helps retrieve them. It only takes a few seconds when it goes well. Thanks. TroyaE117.
Okay... 1,2,3 and you've managed to convince me I can do the same with my eyes closed (okay, maybe not with my eyes closed). At least I believe I can do it - not that I've had your exact issue, but you never know what might come up - there's been enough. Next time I won't be dialing the mechanic. I'll just watch your video again and plow ahead full bore! Thanks very much. Well done.
you are a genius , im crapping my self about servicing my stuffing box
Just got my first sailboat with an inboard Yanmar 1GM10 and giving it the full works as it seemed a pig too start. New filters, impeller, thermostat etc. Compression seemed fairly weak while turning the crank so also just removed the head on mine to take a look. Top of piston & bore very clean indeed and I don't think it's had hydraulic lock with bent rod as the piston is level with top of block at TDC. No excess exhaust port corrosion in the head either and valves looked very good but upon removal the exhaust valve is very pitted, beyond saving too be honest so ordered a new valve. Intake valve very good, just a bit of light lapping required. Exhaust seat looks salvageable though so just waiting on the valve now for re-lapping and it can all go back together. Have also got the stainless elbow from US too although the yanmar one I took off looks OK.
That is a great video. Wonderfully informative and you make it look easy. Viewed from the US in Florida (home). If you need parts from here, I would be glad to get them (exhaust elbow) and ship to you so you don't get gouged by your local sources. Thanks!
Thanks! Even with all the import duties, taxes, etc., can't figure out why the price differential is so big!
Thanks for sharing. Just got a Yanmar 2GM20 and really appreciate the info. Trying to learn all I can and videos like this are a big asset.
Please record your efforts and post them, even if you fail. We'll all benefit from it.
Good job apart from the copper pipe which may crack as it work hardens with vibrations.
Thanks! I think this is a great engine to learn on and there are a lot of them out there so I am not surprised you ended up using one for your course. Nice tip re slackening the lash screws first. Probably would have been easier if I'd have done it that way. I will remember for next time.
Great Video
Years ago we bought a pipe end fitting tool which made pipe cotrectcdiameter and u pressed on fittings we used on motorcycles and it cost 40 quid a lot of money at the time.
Yet we have used so often over the years on Bukes Cars Boat Engines classic cars and bikes we must have got our money back then fold...
This was an excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to post.
TheTeloop Thank you. Glad you found it useful.
That was a really helpful video Paul. It's given me a geat start for a similar job I'm about to have a go at on my old Yanmar YSE8. Much appreciated!
When mechanicing it's always good to include a magnetic recovery device or three. A magnet on a string or on a flexi head will usually make recovering dropped nuts and bolts much quicker especially when fishing in the bilges.
The other thing is to lay old bits of cloth down under where you are working. Can make it a lot easier to retrieve dropped nuts, washers and bolts.
My inlet valve seat has come up rather nicely but the exhaust seat is beyond redemption. Looks like too much re-lapping has gone in in it's past so I've given it too a machine shop to insert a new valve seat to go with the new valve just purchased.
Hey Paul,
I'm about to go through this process myself. Can you remember the paints and treatments you used on threads, inside of the engine, external touch up paint, etc. I've heard of people using the wrong products in the wrong places and ruining an engine... but I'd like to do as complete a job as possible while she's open.
I too will be getting an elbow from Ben at 'exhaust elbows' ... from reviews they seem far superior to the standard yanmar part.
Thanks for posting such an informative video. I'd love to see your annual maintenance or perhaps an engine bleeding video, as you seem to have a knack for breaking these arcane subjects down : )
Again, thank you so much for the video, it appears to be the only one out there demistifying the 2GM and is total gold. you're an absolute star : )
Replacing pipe years ago we bought a tool to do nake end fittings and a small pipe bender it was for a classic car but since has learnt it keep ten times over for motorcycles new and classic cars boats engines and various other uses ...
Worth every penny u just but hose stainless copper metal/rubber etc and fitting u can buy or use die to flare pipes saved many people being robbed at car dealers boat dealer and bike dealers....
We bought it at a classic bike show it very in the top box meant I had trouble keeping front wheel on ground such fun in those days before Elf and Safety.
Interesting, helpful and informative. Many of the principles you covered would apply to any diesel marine engine of similar size, so thank you, and continuing good luck in general and reliable service from the Yanmar, in particular! Col, NZ.
thanks for taking the effort to share your 2gm video. its fantastic
Well done, and thanks for taking the time to document...this should be very helpful to small diesel owners, specifically Yanmar. I have a 1gm I am about to crack open, your effort will greatly help my endeavor.
excellent idea with the brazing. only your setting yourself up for bimetallic corrosion. Id excise the copper and replace it with steel.
Good job, Paul.
Some things to consider. never reuse a gasket they are going to fail and usually at the worst possible moments. If the gasket will not stay put place tiny dabs of loctite around the area where the gasket will seat, this material will sqeeze out without causing problems unless you use too much, Never use silicone unless the manual calls for its use. If you have trouble removing a fastener REPLACE IT, these fasteners will stretch and fail and be impossible to remove later on. always carry extra clamps and don't skimp on maintenance.
Fair winds everyone!
Really great video! Thank you for putting the time in.
Hi Paul, thanks for this really helpful video! I guess I too need to follow your example!! V
Well done! Great video, thank you very much for going to the trouble!
its not only easy start but i bet you got 80% more power than before now
Thanks for the video. was very insightful!! I am just learning to work on engines and this has been a great help! Very impressive how calm you are :)
Hi Paul, yes the original elbow is as you say a pipe within a pipe yet I think it's not 100% necessary to stay with this original design which at the end does not prove to be so much reliable, why not welding a smaller pipe pouring the water say 10 cm far from the beginning of the elbow, sure this first portion will be hotter but who cares ? you do not have to touch it. or it's possible to create an external sleeve to cool it down too. i will make one and show you some pics, welding aisi 316 ss it's not so difficult after all if you have the right tools. A commercial ss curve costs about 5 € in Italy...One more advice, the yanmar manual tells you to use/spread a special paste when reassempling the head gasket. Did you use it ? And if yes how ?
thanks to everybody
Augusto
+Augusto Michelesi I didn't use any paste. Didn't read that anywhere in the manual. No sign of any paste on the old one I took off either. If needed, I missed it... If you have the gear and knowledge to weld those materials, I'd certainly give it a go. As you say, quite a few ways you could do it. I don't have the kit nor experience to do that though. I also live on a tiny island. I'd have to order pipe stock etc and I bet it would be expensive for me. Wasn't worth it for me when I could get a better than new one at a reasonable price quite quickly. One day, I will learn to weld. Quite a few projects I would have in mind :)
Hi Steven. I cut them off just at the joint then used a drill the same diameter as the pipe to drill out the rest of the pipe that was in the banjo. I was then able to flux the joints, insert the new pipe and solder on without issue.
+Paul Smith (Paul J Smith) What type of solder worked OK? Plumbers flux & solder??
+Andrew Polson Mine are going to need doing too as they are all showing signs of corrosion.
+Andrew Polson yes, that's what I used.
My YSM8 wants to be that motor when it grows up.
Excellent video, thanks Paul.
Hi like this guy a lot. Great video my friend.
Great video and excellent narration. Well done.👍
Thanks. Comments like this make it all worth it :)
have same trouble with1g10 yanmar great video
Good repairing procedure. Regards from Mexico
Great information... neat way to grind valves.
Excellent job. Man that's a wonderful engine too. Sweet.
Congratulations! You must have been very proud when that started so quickly and with fewer vibrations.
I have had a charter yacht with an exhaust elbow that corroded and pissed warm salt water into the bilges, so I imagine it's a common problem. Who was the guy in NZ who sent you the Stainless Steel exhaust elbow?
I am a Kiwi back in NZ for summer, and am heading back to Turkey in 3 months where I will be looking after a boat with a Yanmar 2GM20. We may well have to replace the exhaust elbow soon so it would be good to know where I could get a good one.
And thanks for posting this video. Gives amateurs like me a bit more confidence and a reference for instruction when we are forced to do a rebuild.
paul, good job! i see engine vibration is very very little.
Good video, thanks, I have a seized 2GM20F gave some good tips & will save me some hassle.
glad it helped.
Please record your efforts and post them under Restoring seized 2GM20F or similar and come back here and link to it, or let us know the video number (i.e. qp056LYvdRc for this video, as per the address above). Thanks!
Is these engine the same as 2tr27 engine
I'm working on one right now and it looks the same
Great video even that's it's been a long time it's still helping people like me
Thanks from Brownsville TX
Brilliant! My 2GM has Exactly the same problem and I have been fretting for a day over the cost of replacement. I'm headed to the marina now with the kit to tear the head off. Fingers crossed Paul; you many have saved me thousands. Keep up the Great Work man. :-) :-) :-)
Good work. Thanks for sharing
I very rarely post comments, but I wanted to say big thank you for posting this video! You gave me the confidence to resolve my leaking valves and my engine is now better than it's ever been since owning the yacht for 7 years.
I had similar symptoms as you-sooty exhaust, decreasing RPM, some smoke out the intake even, difficulty starting and these all got so bad I eventually couldn't start my 1GM at all. After watching your video all of these symptoms began to all add up and make perfect sense as to what was occuring in my engine. I found my exhaust mixing elbow had failed and both my valves (particularly the exhaust valve) had corrosion causing them not seal properly against the valve seats in the head. I'm so relieved to have this fixed, the parts weren't cheap (mixing elbow and head gasket and I replaced my exhaust valve as it was too corroded to clean up) but still cheaper than a new engine. Nice to know the engine is running correctly and I will be sure to regularly inspect the elbow so this never occurs again-in hindsight there were many warning signs of this condition developing.
Thanks again!
Really glad to hear that you fixed it and I may have played some small part. Makes it all worthwhile, so thanks for the comment.
Nice work man.
Thanks for this video. Truly inspirational! I have a similar oil leak, and I suspect a replacement oil pipe will cost even more in NZ
Great video! Thank you! :)
Glad you liked it!
Add my compliments! - well done video, good explanation of the cause/effects
Curious that the water passages get stopped by the head gasket instead of making a circuit - so there was no benefit in clearing them?
Great job! Thanks very much!
Thanks for sharing this!
sweet job. Good vid thanks!
Excellent methodical video..
Did you clean it replace Doesel Injecters ?
I cleaned them, sort of! Wooden toothpick in the holes, as I recall. Soft enough not to scrape anything important!
Brilliant job.
Can't wait for my engine to go into disrepair! ;) Cheers, Paul.
Nice job!!
I know you posted this awhile ago but I just found it. Love watching do it yourself type stuff. I hate paying someone else to do something that I know with time and patience I can learn to do it myself. I read down the comments pretty far and no one mentioned that on startup the engine shook quite a bit. I'm not that familiar with your setup but you might want to check your motor mounts. Could be a worn out bushing or two. Hat after all that work se
Randy Morris thanks, and you are bang on, though I did not realise at the time. Since then, the copper fuel hose cracked at sea and the stern tube mounting came loose. May be cracked. Got back safely, but boat out of action currently. Really missing it. To get to the stern tube, I need to remove the fuel tank and that probably means cutting a big hole in the cockpit floor. Stupid design... I hope to sort it this year, but big job for maybe 2 new bolts... I think this had been going on. For some time.
I have already since replaced the mounts BTW. They were totally shot
Thanks for doing the video (y)
Did you re-torque the head after running it in for some time? You did a great job. I never saw valves so messed up before but then I only ever worked on car engines
Thanks. I will check the head bolts this next service. The season has ended here now, so wet and miserable! Time to wrap it up for the winter. It's not run many hours since that job. You are also supposed to re check the valve clearances as well so will do that also.
1. The pair of thingies you pull to free a valve retainer are called "keepers"; a collet is used to precisely clamp a cylinder from the outside. 2. Lapping valves is not advised. Valves expand with heat, so lapped area does NOT make contact when hot. Typically the seating region is too wide besides. Machine shop wiil grind all precisely for "pennies". Good luck.
Jacques Blaque sorry mate but you are wrong there he,is correct calling them collets now keep quiet youtube engineer
Very helpful video and job well done. As a fellow DIY type in process of replacing 3qm30 head gasket I found a lot of help here. I am curious what the overall time frame was from beginning to end including waiting on materials/parts. It always amazes me how long these projects take doing them in spare time. I find one of my biggest challenges in not rushing to see if the repair actually works. :-0
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful. I think you are right. For me, I generally spend too much time running back and forth trying to get parts and tools that I need for the job. I'm not really sure of the full timeframe as it was a while ago now and I did have that time waiting for parts. A week for the elbow I think, but that was from New Zealand to UK, so really quite good. Then some back and forth locally for gasket, tools etc. But, it was not that bad. I would say if you have all the right parts and tools to hand, it's likely possible to do this job in a weekend. I probably did it over a 3/4 weekends with the wait time. The boat actually sprung a fuel leak in a copper fuel pipe last time I used it, so have to fix that one next. Pondering whether to replace the whole tank / system with something new...
This is a great video for us Yanmar diesel engine owners. Thanks. I've been experiencing overheating problems with my Yanmar SB8 single cylinder and have replaced the thermostat, the Cold Water Sensor switch, new zinc and even kept a gallon of distilled white vinegar in the water circulation system for a week but it still overheats after an hour of idling the engine. I suspect that my 1978 diesel will have the same amount of scaling as you've shown in yours. Also, more importantly, where in the US did you have an exhaust mixing tube made. The replacement part from Yanmar is cast iron, but I'd like to have a stainless steel one like the one you have.
I'd appreciate your help.
Thanks,
David Bruno
San Diego, Ca.
exhaust elbow d0t c0m
Did you have any cooling troubles prior to this? I would think those corroded cleaning channels would have impeded water flow. Great Video. Thank you!!
Not that I was aware off. The water pump was still working fine. Water coming out of the exhaust, etc. I think the only issue was that water was also left in the cylinder head on shutdown and failed startup. Water was still being pumped around the engine as normal. In fact, where those holes were full, wasn't corrosion. It was sea salt (the engine is raw water cooled) and I'm pretty sure those holes were blocked off by the cylinder head gasket anyway.
It used to be possible to get stainless steel exhaust elbows (at a price!) The OEM elbow is a fruitful source of trouble on these engines and IMHO they are not of merchantable quality.
Clean the pipe. Wrap it with 22 swg tinned copper wire and then solder it along the leagth of pipe. Easy peezey.
I have some of the same problems you are describing. I was wonder if one of your readers Jonathan Landwer would share his part source. I am interest in the exhaust elbo.
Does anyone here have Spare part list for Yanmar 6AY - ET / 6AYM-ETE/STE/GTE? Been searching on it, can't find. Please, I am desperate? Thank you.
Thanks. Elbow was reasonable price for the part - cheaper than factory version. Try here exhaustelbow dt cm (yt doesn't allow me to post a link in the reply). Chap seems to make a lot of them! Not sure it'll fit the 1ysb though.
Very well done!! How were you able to get the banjos off and braise the banjos back on??
that engine looks in miniature, like my 40y old Polish traktor - you can repair it with hammer and few tools.
What is cc ?, power and consumptions for 1 hour ?
Nice job, the copper tubing Idea was nice but I think you could of gotten away with cutting the old pipe and using rubber oil line hose and hose clamps. I just don't trust copper and a vibrating engine but either way it was a great job:-)
Thanks. That's a good idea and in fact I think I will add some oil hose and cable ties to the emergency kit at least :)
+riphaven Was looking into that myself, you can get 12mm banjos with push on oil fittings easily. Haven't seen anyone do it on any of the forums though so unsure if suitable.
Copper tubing just makes me nervous. Being a Harley owner and seeing what vibrations can do to stress things out under power makes me think twice. Hose clamps have been around for ever and they just work. There on our cars, our motorcycles and just about everything else we have that needs a clamp. As for a banjo clamp I don't know. It might look pretty but in the end we just need to do one job....hold.
true, I fear copper in a vibrating environment, cunifer tubing is much better in this aspect and it,s used by Volvo and Mercedes in brake circuit tubings, if the space permit, the best bet is a small hydraulic of steel braided PTFE liner hose with its fittings.
does the 2GM not have a heat exchanger? there shouldn't be any saltwater running through the cooling system of the actual block?
Hi - Not on this version. This is a factory raw water cooled version. There is a different build with a heat exchanger. This one however is designed for salt-water. There are sacrificial anodes in the block itself that are consumables and designed to corrode in preference to the engine itself.
Is it possible that you had water in your cylinders do to a bad exhaust elbow and hydro locked your motor.
Thanks for taking the time to create and share this video. It is very informative.
I'm curious how difficult it was to remove the nuts and bolts. Some that I've seen appear to be fairly corroded. I plan to use 6 point sockets for the most part to minimize the problem of rounding them off. I'm wondering if I'll need to allow several days for PB Blaster to help loosen some of the fasteners, or whether it might be helpful to try applying heat or using an impact driver.
Which repair manual did you use to find the necessary information to make these repairs. I don't have a manual yet. I would like to purchase one.
I've been researching online to learn the design compression pressure or acceptable compression pressure.range for the 2GM 20. Does anyone know what these values or where I might find them?
Thanks again,
Bob
Hi - As usual with these things, with the correct tools, it's no problem. I initially thought I might be able to remove the head bolts with a large socket driver and an adapter. Sheered the adapter. Could not budge the bolts. I bought a breakers bar (very long socket driver) and the correct size (very deep - the nuts are way down on studs) socket, and they just came off right away. Very easy, but scary! With that amount of torque, they were going to break or come loose! I did put a squirt of penetrating fluid on them all first to try and avoid snapping them. Everything else with a decent socket set should come off just fine. You will need either 2 or 1 wide ranging torque driver to do the bolts back up (some bolts are done loosely and some quite firmly, but it seems torque drivers that cover both ranges accurately are rare. I got one from 'halfords' certified across the range).
I used the official Yanmar service manual. Pretty sure you'll be able to find it on-line. It's very detailed. I can recall it does have sections re compression testing and allowable tolerances.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
SlMThank you
If you had water going into the cylinder head. While it was running the Pistons would be scrubbed clean no Carbon on them.
Brilliant video, thank you. It has given me the confidence to take the head off my 1GM.
I have low compression and read somewhere that the cylinder on the 1GM10 is 2mm proud of the engine block at TDC. Your 2GM appears to be flush and my 1GM is definitely flush. I'm concerned about a bent conrod but don't want to do a bottom end rebuild unless necessary.
Were the cylinder heads flush with the block?
Thanks again for the video
Thank you. I am glad it helped. Do you mean the piston? If so, I honestly cannot recall. However, between the head and block, you have the gasket too. I don't recall the pistons raising higher than the top of the block as I rotated the crank.
@@PaulSmithGsy Sorry, of course I meant piston head, I've got less corrosion than you had so fingers crossed Conrod is not bent.
Paul, great video. I used it all the way through...my question is this...torque numbers on the head bolts...3 are nuts on posts on the port side, 3 are hefty bolts in the center, and 2 are considerably smaller bolts on starboard. What torques did you use? Thanks
Hi Jeffery. I can recall thinking the same thing! From memory, there are a couple smaller ones. I just checked the service manual. It states the M12 bolts should be 12.0 (86.8), and the M8 bolts 3.0 (21.7). kgf-m(ft-lb). It's different for the 1 cyl, and there are 2 different 3 cyl too. Some info here for you drive.google.com/file/d/1SmhDcbc8b5UOswq9exmkt_HPMB5J3phv/view?usp=sharing
hello Paul. compliments for the useful video and a few qurstions. why nto try to diy the elbow and do it with a ss commercial curve ? second query, would you suggest to use a non genuine head gasket like the marine repower one ? thanks a lot. augusto
+Augusto Michelesi Hi. The elbow is a pipe within a pipe and I've no way to weld that, especially SS. I guess a quality head gasket would be OK. Didn't know they existed. Yanmar spares in the UK can be _very_ expensive compared to US. Given that's just not a cost of product difference, more economical quality compatible parts from reputable suppliers I guess should be OK. Head gasket rather important though! Not sure I'd bother if I wasn't confident in the part and the price differential was big enough.