A super, super video. I watched to see how to get to the jets. I shouldn't have stopped there but watched to the end about the choke housing reinstall. Saved me hours of rework.
This is a really helpful explanation. I just ordered a summit carb and am now looking forward to better off-road performance. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
A tip I remember from an old hotrod magazine is when you get your carb and when you tear into your carb coat the gaskets on both sides with chapstick so they don't stick and tear Great video btw and thank you, seems pretty user friendly
Thank you for the quick teardown, great info, and no BS... Great advice on the Wide band sensor. I've just resorted to reading plugs. I have the Mechanical secondary 750 on my 383. I was anxious about the motor and ran cold plugs as it's high compression. They fouled immediately and going up one range helped initially. However the plugs show I've been running rich and it's time to tune. Starting with the primaries going down by 1 or 2 sizes. Summit had way too much sales going on in their videos for my patience.
Thanks for the video. Im having issues with accelerator pump not squirting. The lever will not move at all. That "bb" and weight rod are NOT on the exploded diagram. And that BB did not come out even with blowing compressed air thru the accelerator pump passageway. So looks like the BB is seized in mine. I was unsure if it was permanently installed in the passage way somehow to keep it from falling out. I much prefer Holley carbs but my buddy has summit carbs on both his old school cars. They were in bad shape from aluminum corroding. The float needle assemblies were absolutely seized in the housing(would not unscrew or move to adjust level)) and had to be knocked out with a punch.
Nice video. Have a 500 i had on a 302, great little carb. Ran great out of the box, something my custom qft and my other holleys havent done, as well at least. I guess i could go down a pair on the primary but its so close ive never bothered. I suspect they flow a bit more than theyre rated also having done a little testing with it on my 351w
This carb workes excellent i love it makes great power and has great drivability love the boosters got a increase of 4.6 mtg from holley 600 to summit 600...total adjustability...
Fun fact, this is based on the Autolite 4100, a design from the mid 50s. I think even the boosters interchange. Great carbs. Run 4010 Holleys since the early 90s with Zero problems.
Thanks for the video. Im running one of these on a 460. I've got 67/73 jets in there and a 6.5 power valve. Is there anything I should change here? Maybe bigger jets, and a 8.5/9.0 power valve? I have 19 hg. Should I up the pump cam from green to a bigger one? What about the boosters? Im not getting a 750 or bigger carb. Thanks
I know this is a old video, but my 89 bronco i bought recently has this carburetor. Cleaning it out and trying to adjust the lean mixture. But knob wont turn?
I run one of these on my daily driver- it’s been making me crazy with how PIG rice it gets right off idle. Looks like I need to step down on the idle feed restrictors!
Ok that idle circuit jet is what I need to change mine runs Lean when I'm driving, between 12-14" of vacuum. So I know I'm not into the enrichment circuit.
Rick, your reference to idle and pump jets is incorrect. The IFRS are on the outside of the cluster, and the pump jets are the middle under the cluster screw.
i have this carb on chevy 350, low performance, bought carb new, runs fine until gets operating temp....wont idle then...sputters and stalls...if i manually put the choke on, idle is perfect, but deactivate the choke and back to sputtering and stalling...any suggestions for initial adjustments? i confirmed theres no leak around baseplate gasket (sprayed carb cleaner around it and intake), no egr. seems to run lean. thank you.
Mark, mine has this issue too. My wideband shows the carb does go lean after a heat soak. I think it may be a secondary throttle plate issue. I've made a couple of adjustments and have noticed an improvement. After a day or two of driving to verify, I'll do a part two video and show what I've done.
When you tighten the top or Cover, just Like cylinder heads, etc ALWAYS start with the INSIDE screws or bolts. Always work from the inner to the outer screws.
@@ricksshop I know that's what I'm thinking. I plan on using a copper flare washer on it. The steel lines are tough to seal sometimes. I saw another video that says they are always successful.
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A super, super video. I watched to see how to get to the jets. I shouldn't have stopped there but watched to the end about the choke housing reinstall. Saved me hours of rework.
This is a really helpful explanation. I just ordered a summit carb and am now looking forward to better off-road performance. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
A tip I remember from an old hotrod magazine is when you get your carb and when you tear into your carb coat the gaskets on both sides with chapstick so they don't stick and tear
Great video btw and thank you, seems pretty user friendly
Thank you for the quick teardown, great info, and no BS... Great advice on the Wide band sensor. I've just resorted to reading plugs. I have the Mechanical secondary 750 on my 383. I was anxious about the motor and ran cold plugs as it's high compression. They fouled immediately and going up one range helped initially. However the plugs show I've been running rich and it's time to tune. Starting with the primaries going down by 1 or 2 sizes. Summit had way too much sales going on in their videos for my patience.
All 4 boosters are annular discharge, I thought the AVS2 was cool but this is very cool.
1957 state of the art Ford technology right there, the boosters will interchange with the Autolite 4100 carburetors.
Thanks for the video. Im having issues with accelerator pump not squirting. The lever will not move at all. That "bb" and weight rod are NOT on the exploded diagram. And that BB did not come out even with blowing compressed air thru the accelerator pump passageway. So looks like the BB is seized in mine. I was unsure if it was permanently installed in the passage way somehow to keep it from falling out. I much prefer Holley carbs but my buddy has summit carbs on both his old school cars. They were in bad shape from aluminum corroding. The float needle assemblies were absolutely seized in the housing(would not unscrew or move to adjust level)) and had to be knocked out with a punch.
backwards on your idle mixture restrictors and accelerator pump nozzle jet. idle mixture restrictors are on the outside edge of the booster cluster.
Yep, I was repeating the Summit DVD which was wrong. Correction is in my comments above.
Nice video. Have a 500 i had on a 302, great little carb. Ran great out of the box, something my custom qft and my other holleys havent done, as well at least. I guess i could go down a pair on the primary but its so close ive never bothered. I suspect they flow a bit more than theyre rated also having done a little testing with it on my 351w
I have one of these, new in the box for quite some time now, I better get busy and fire it up.
This carb workes excellent i love it makes great power and has great drivability love the boosters got a increase of 4.6 mtg from holley 600 to summit 600...total adjustability...
Bought a 750 double pump annular boosters, was a very good carb. in the 90's
Fun fact, this is based on the Autolite 4100, a design from the mid 50s. I think even the boosters interchange. Great carbs. Run 4010 Holleys since the early 90s with Zero problems.
Thanks for the video. Im running one of these on a 460. I've got 67/73 jets in there and a 6.5 power valve. Is there anything I should change here? Maybe bigger jets, and a 8.5/9.0 power valve? I have 19 hg. Should I up the pump cam from green to a bigger one? What about the boosters? Im not getting a 750 or bigger carb. Thanks
💯💯💯 Wide band O2 sensor is a great call, $200-$300 isn't peanuts but it's dirt cheap compared to melting an engine......
Can you share what the diameters are of the primary Venturi and throttle bores? Ty.
I know this is a old video, but my 89 bronco i bought recently has this carburetor. Cleaning it out and trying to adjust the lean mixture. But knob wont turn?
I run one of these on my daily driver- it’s been making me crazy with how PIG rice it gets right off idle. Looks like I need to step down on the idle feed restrictors!
Good luck sizing that with no sizes stamped anywhere telling what you have on the restrictors or on the case this junk comes in...
I have same issue runs rich idle only no information anywhere on this particular carb or sizes of different parts...so much for quality ...
Ok that idle circuit jet is what I need to change mine runs Lean when I'm driving, between 12-14" of vacuum. So I know I'm not into the enrichment circuit.
You have yourself a new subscriber
Ur opinion Are these good carbs? Thanks.
Yes, but with the idle circuit issues, I wouldn't run one on a vehicle that had to pass an emissions test.
My linkage binds. Will not idle property because the throttle plates bind
Are the float chambers hard anodized?
They are the same polished surface as the exterior.
@@ricksshop so in other words you don’t know!
@@onehot57 Carb is made of aluminum. Exterior surface is polished aluminum, therefore...
Rick how does it work with this gas ⛽️ that has 15% ethanol
Never tried it with E 15, but did with E10. Works fine.
Rick, your reference to idle and pump jets is incorrect. The IFRS are on the outside of the cluster, and the pump jets are the middle under the cluster screw.
Yes, as I mentioned in the comments, I was quoting the Summit video supplied with the carb which is incorrect.
@@ricksshop Yes, I've seen that on their DVD. A poor error on their behalf. Good carbs though.
What is the thread size on the end of the fuel rail? Is it 3/8 npt?
It's standard 3/8 brake tubing with I believe a 5/8-18 flare fitting.
@@ricksshop Thanks, I'll just put a better quality set up on it.
i have this carb on chevy 350, low performance, bought carb new, runs fine until gets operating temp....wont idle then...sputters and stalls...if i manually put the choke on, idle is perfect, but deactivate the choke and back to sputtering and stalling...any suggestions for initial adjustments? i confirmed theres no leak around baseplate gasket (sprayed carb cleaner around it and intake), no egr. seems to run lean. thank you.
Mark, mine has this issue too. My wideband shows the carb does go lean after a heat soak. I think it may be a secondary throttle plate issue. I've made a couple of adjustments and have noticed an improvement. After a day or two of driving to verify, I'll do a part two video and show what I've done.
@@ricksshop that would be so great if you do a video on it….
where does the check ball go
Check ball and weight go in the same hole as the booster cluster retaining bolt (bolt is hollow)...
Where do you get idle jets?
Summit Racing sells them. They are standard Holley parts.
When you tighten the top or Cover, just Like cylinder heads, etc ALWAYS start with the INSIDE screws or bolts. Always work from the inner to the outer screws.
I could not get a metal line to seal on the fuel feed line.
The sealing surface is the flare, not the threads. There may be a burr on the inside of the fitting or feed line.
@@ricksshop I know that's what I'm thinking. I plan on using a copper flare washer on it. The steel lines are tough to seal sometimes. I saw another video that says they are always successful.
@@TheIVBO sometimes need to tweak the feed line to make sure the flare seats center and square on the cone inside the fuel bowl/needle fitting.