I’m curious if the caps are the main fault in these, or something else. I’ve never done a failure analysis, but I do have a failed one on top of my toolbox, so I popped it open. The caps don’t seem to have vented or leaked. I do have an ESR meter, so I can desolder them and test them and see what value they are. If the caps are indeed the weak point, I’d recommend using a high quality cap from Mouser, Digikey etc so you know it’s not counterfeit. 105 degree. And clean your flux residue up when you’re done. Rosin core flux isn’t highly corrosive, but it can attract moisture, dirt, metal particles etc that could cause all sorts of problems. I did find some horrible solder joints inside my failed relay, dated January of 1995!
YESSS! Skip the cheap aftermarket ones. Recap the one on the car, and recap a spare instead for a few bucks! Keep the spare and a compact T25 in the glovebox (I dont even keep a jumper anymore) I bought that exact same capacitor kit btw
Heres a tip for anyone looking to do this - I find that flux and solder wick works better than the suckers do, pulls the holes dry making putting the new caps in easy. Worth a shot if you're struggling getting the caps off or on.
The plastic housing is degrading with father time/ cheap plastic. The ultimate or best solution is to install an external relay and leave the housing alone.
Thanks for watching! When I upgrade the fuel system I will run a new power cable as I did on the Laser. I added a standard relay to the as well that triggers off the original fuel pump wires.
I’m curious if the caps are the main fault in these, or something else. I’ve never done a failure analysis, but I do have a failed one on top of my toolbox, so I popped it open. The caps don’t seem to have vented or leaked. I do have an ESR meter, so I can desolder them and test them and see what value they are. If the caps are indeed the weak point, I’d recommend using a high quality cap from Mouser, Digikey etc so you know it’s not counterfeit. 105 degree. And clean your flux residue up when you’re done. Rosin core flux isn’t highly corrosive, but it can attract moisture, dirt, metal particles etc that could cause all sorts of problems. I did find some horrible solder joints inside my failed relay, dated January of 1995!
YESSS! Skip the cheap aftermarket ones. Recap the one on the car, and recap a spare instead for a few bucks! Keep the spare and a compact T25 in the glovebox (I dont even keep a jumper anymore)
I bought that exact same capacitor kit btw
Thanks again my friend!
Heres a tip for anyone looking to do this - I find that flux and solder wick works better than the suckers do, pulls the holes dry making putting the new caps in easy. Worth a shot if you're struggling getting the caps off or on.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing Chris! Chris is my good friend who shared this repair with me and gave me the capacitor info.
@@handydandthanks for the shout out. Of course, real credit goes to to that MVS post where I learned the tip myself!
Dan the man
Thank you!
The plastic housing is degrading with father time/ cheap plastic. The ultimate or best solution is to install an external relay and leave the housing alone.
Best to upgrade the wiring anyway and use a standard relay. Much better.
Thanks for watching! When I upgrade the fuel system I will run a new power cable as I did on the Laser. I added a standard relay to the as well that triggers off the original fuel pump wires.