Just pulled my 1200 engine out, and found it much easier than mentioned in the video. 1) Keep the intake on the machine 2)Don't remove the throttle body on the intake, just pull it with the engine and intake 3)Remove the clamp and coolant hose on the coolant tank to the throttle body 4) Unplug magneto connector from voltage regulator, cut the black tie holding engine harness to ECM support plastic 5)Unplug the engine connector by the ecm, pull cables that go with engine on top of engine so they don't get caught anywhere 6)Unplug front sensor right under spark plug #2 called CAPS, camshaft position sensor 7) remove left side bearing holder with left side engine brace Then pull it out
This video was very helpful for me when replacing the starter on my 2014 GSX 1200 SE. Thank you. Just one comment: the airbox has a hard to see and reach screw underneath it. It took me a little time to figure that out. It is a good idea to have one of those flexible screw grabbers to remove and replace that screw. It screws into a metal clip with threads that holds onto the airbox with spring tension. I had to bend mine to make it hold better.
Hi Josh. Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful. I have a 2013 GSX SE with a 1200 in it. A stud made a clean hole midway down the tunnel. I was looking into welding it but it’s recommended the exchanger be removed and flushed to get a proper weld. I’ve been told that the engine needs to be removed in order to get at the exchanger connections but, judging from your video, it looked like the connections were further down the tunnel away from the motor. Could you please tell me if I will have to pull the motor and possibly comment on how you would approach this repair. Appreciate it. Dave in Haliburton.
Hey Dave! Another local kinda sorta Northern ON guy! Haha. Haliburton is nice been through there a few times. So basically my best and 100% recommendation is to leave that heat exchanger and weld it!!! Removing the engine is a horrible job. If you are concerned on residue etc etc. I would drain the coolant and put the sled on a chain fall and get the back end way in the air, then it will be sure to be drained. It would likely be easier for the welder to do it in the near vertical position if you crank the back end way up. Dropping the skid and track is way easier than the engine. I had to do it twice. Once for an oil leak and once for a stator. I would recommend welding. My friend is a really good welder and had welded a couple 1200s specifically with no issues. Hope this helps. Josh
Wow Josh. Thanks for the fast reply. So I guess your saying that yes I would have to pull the motor to get exchanger out. To weld it in place I would want to flush water through it first and let it dry in the hoisted position. Have to figure out how to flush it out properly. I’m tempted to clean it up real good, put a screw in the stud hole and apply Aluminum JB weld on it. What do you think about that? Any experience with that? Thanks Dave.
I wouldn’t think a serious flush would be necessary. Any good welder should fix you up. Yes motor would have to come out i am 99% sure. Never had to do the job. I’ve seen a lot of people fix them with JB weld on the trail to get them by. Have seen it last for years……i wouldn’t recommend it. However it probably would work.
So I have a 2009 skidoo mxz1200 tnt .. engine got hot and leaked anti freeze everywhere from underneath.. cannot visually see where it leaked from .. so far I have removed water pump all is well there .. removed oil cooler it is not cracked or leaking.. also completely removed thermostat and housing to check thermostat so seems had a little trouble opening but once it opened it stayed opened and won’t close
Bleed coolant is simple. Just fill it up and run it and then keep filling it. Never had an issue and have done it twice. As far as clutch alignment i have never done it. I really don’t see much adjustment. The engine bolts to 4 bolts that you can’t adjust. Only thing i can think is you would shim the actual mount? Either way no belt issues in the past 3K since doing the removal.
I've gotta replace the RH e module on my 1200 just trying to figure out how I'm going to shift the engine over and support it enough to get the module piece out. Any ideas how I could do this or if there's enough slack on the coolant lines to shift it over a few inches?
@@Schneids15 I gave my 09 GTX all the engine upgrades and am under the impression that the engine won't fire unless the fuel rail is under pressure. True or not?
That is true. As soon as you press the start button the fuel pump will pressurize the rail. May take a couple extra seconds of cranking but it will fire.
@@Schneids15 OK, need to refill coolant system and the procedure includes running engine. Service manual was very valuable but your video was what I referenced most. I'll give it a couple tries and cross my fingers. Upgrades were new water pump gear, thermostat, oil cooler and a fried starter. Thanks
Is there any chance I can talk to you about the replacement of the plastics? Let me know if you can contact me somehow or if anyone else who knows can help me.
I just checked the oil in my 1200 touring 2015 in my oil was below the low mark is that a separate tank? I did start it with the oil below low just for like 30 seconds I need to add probably more than a quart? Before I ride next year? I hope to hell I did not ruin my motor but it sounded good.
I really appreciate the sub man. Hoping to get to 1K by the new year. For more reassurance if you were to damage the motor at all as in no oil pressure there would have been warning beeping and it likely would have shut off or went to limp mode.
Well Josh I went to the dealer today and they said I would have to purchase another 12 or 24 month warranty. Not knowing exactly where the oil leak is and just seeing the valve covers seep I am unsure if I do have a leak. I told him I will ride it at the end of the month on my week vacation and check if the oil that I put in went down and where it went either on the floor or the belly pan. I'm hoping it isn't the O-rings in the bottle. I was looking for a video of yours that showed what it was that you had the problem steming from but I guess you didn't put it up or let us know what it was. Mine being a 2015 I would probably bring it home for the summer and tear into it instead of spending over $1,000 for a warranty. Thanks for all your communication I really appreciate it. Did you actually practice each step taking this motor out and then video it because it sure looks like you've done this before
Also john if you would like to talk to me on the phone i do not mind helping you, go to the “About” section of my channel and click business inquires and it will show my email. Send me an email i will send you my phone number. Stuff like this is easier to talk about on the phone.
@@Schneids15 no cuz just like you i got a used 1200 i got rid of it juat like yoy the guy i got that 1200 from didnt do 1 oil change could smell the burnt oil i changed it and after that it started to leak all over
Mine started leaking after an overheat when I first got my sled used. I think the oil tank warps or the o-rings get damaged. Not sure because I've just been living with it and checking the oil for now. It only leaks intermittently (occasional puddle on the floor) - it is strange.
Just pulled my 1200 engine out, and found it much easier than mentioned in the video.
1) Keep the intake on the machine
2)Don't remove the throttle body on the intake, just pull it with the engine and intake
3)Remove the clamp and coolant hose on the coolant tank to the throttle body
4) Unplug magneto connector from voltage regulator, cut the black tie holding engine harness to ECM support plastic
5)Unplug the engine connector by the ecm, pull cables that go with engine on top of engine so they don't get caught anywhere
6)Unplug front sensor right under spark plug #2 called CAPS, camshaft position sensor
7) remove left side bearing holder with left side engine brace
Then pull it out
This video was very helpful for me when replacing the starter on my 2014 GSX 1200 SE. Thank you. Just one comment: the airbox has a hard to see and reach screw underneath it. It took me a little time to figure that out. It is a good idea to have one of those flexible screw grabbers to remove and replace that screw. It screws into a metal clip with threads that holds onto the airbox with spring tension. I had to bend mine to make it hold better.
Awesome video, thank you!!! What kind of glue/adhesive would you use on the oring of the oil reservoir?
I would love to see the tank being changed as well. Nice job!
I know i should have filmed it. Sled is all put together:/
Hi Josh. Thank you for your videos. They are very helpful. I have a 2013 GSX SE with a 1200 in it. A stud made a clean hole midway down the tunnel. I was looking into welding it but it’s recommended the exchanger be removed and flushed to get a proper weld. I’ve been told that the engine needs to be removed in order to get at the exchanger connections but, judging from your video, it looked like the connections were further down the tunnel away from the motor. Could you please tell me if I will have to pull the motor and possibly comment on how you would approach this repair. Appreciate it. Dave in Haliburton.
Hey Dave! Another local kinda sorta Northern ON guy! Haha. Haliburton is nice been through there a few times.
So basically my best and 100% recommendation is to leave that heat exchanger and weld it!!! Removing the engine is a horrible job. If you are concerned on residue etc etc. I would drain the coolant and put the sled on a chain fall and get the back end way in the air, then it will be sure to be drained. It would likely be easier for the welder to do it in the near vertical position if you crank the back end way up. Dropping the skid and track is way easier than the engine. I had to do it twice. Once for an oil leak and once for a stator. I would recommend welding. My friend is a really good welder and had welded a couple 1200s specifically with no issues. Hope this helps.
Josh
Wow Josh. Thanks for the fast reply. So I guess your saying that yes I would have to pull the motor to get exchanger out.
To weld it in place I would want to flush water through it first and let it dry in the hoisted position. Have to figure out how to flush it out properly.
I’m tempted to clean it up real good, put a screw in the stud hole and apply Aluminum JB weld on it. What do you think about that? Any experience with that? Thanks Dave.
I wouldn’t think a serious flush would be necessary. Any good welder should fix you up. Yes motor would have to come out i am 99% sure. Never had to do the job.
I’ve seen a lot of people fix them with JB weld on the trail to get them by. Have seen it last for years……i wouldn’t recommend it. However it probably would work.
Hey can you make a video on removing the PTO cover the fast way with the engine still staying in?
So I have a 2009 skidoo mxz1200 tnt .. engine got hot and leaked anti freeze everywhere from underneath.. cannot visually see where it leaked from .. so far I have removed water pump all is well there .. removed oil cooler it is not cracked or leaking.. also completely removed thermostat and housing to check thermostat so seems had a little trouble opening but once it opened it stayed opened and won’t close
Yes likely melted. Time for a new Thermostat for sure.
Josh,
2015 MXZ 1200. My PTO cover is leaking. What is the easiest way to access? Thank you very much, good work my friend.
Hey Micheal. Not 100% sure as i had never had to deal with that issue. Sorry i can’t help.
Nice work! Should have made a oil leak repair, engine install video also. I get it, time consuming. Thanks man....
How long did it take
I need to do this procedure this summer is it big deal to realign clutch and bleed coolant? Thanks
Bleed coolant is simple. Just fill it up and run it and then keep filling it. Never had an issue and have done it twice. As far as clutch alignment i have never done it. I really don’t see much adjustment. The engine bolts to 4 bolts that you can’t adjust. Only thing i can think is you would shim the actual mount? Either way no belt issues in the past 3K since doing the removal.
I've gotta replace the RH e module on my 1200 just trying to figure out how I'm going to shift the engine over and support it enough to get the module piece out.
Any ideas how I could do this or if there's enough slack on the coolant lines to shift it over a few inches?
Great job!
How did you repressureize the fuel tank when you were done?
Hey Jim, by repressureize the fuel tank what do you mean?
@@Schneids15 I gave my 09 GTX all the engine upgrades and am under the impression that the engine won't fire unless the fuel rail is under pressure. True or not?
That is true. As soon as you press the start button the fuel pump will pressurize the rail. May take a couple extra seconds of cranking but it will fire.
@@Schneids15 OK, need to refill coolant system and the procedure includes running engine. Service manual was very valuable but your video was what I referenced most. I'll give it a couple tries and cross my fingers. Upgrades were new water pump gear, thermostat, oil cooler and a fried starter. Thanks
Is there any chance I can talk to you about the replacement of the plastics? Let me know if you can contact me somehow or if anyone else who knows can help me.
Yes just comment here. Josh
I just checked the oil in my 1200 touring 2015 in my oil was below the low mark is that a separate tank? I did start it with the oil below low just for like 30 seconds I need to add probably more than a quart? Before I ride next year? I hope to hell I did not ruin my motor but it sounded good.
You probably won’t be quite a quart. No you probably did not do any damage to that motor it would still have oil pressure.
Thanks man I subbed. Will look for more vids. Sub me also. Not a big video maker just for family really. Check out my trips.
I really appreciate the sub man. Hoping to get to 1K by the new year. For more reassurance if you were to damage the motor at all as in no oil pressure there would have been warning beeping and it likely would have shut off or went to limp mode.
Well Josh I went to the dealer today and they said I would have to purchase another 12 or 24 month warranty. Not knowing exactly where the oil leak is and just seeing the valve covers seep I am unsure if I do have a leak. I told him I will ride it at the end of the month on my week vacation and check if the oil that I put in went down and where it went either on the floor or the belly pan. I'm hoping it isn't the O-rings in the bottle. I was looking for a video of yours that showed what it was that you had the problem steming from but I guess you didn't put it up or let us know what it was. Mine being a 2015 I would probably bring it home for the summer and tear into it instead of spending over $1,000 for a warranty. Thanks for all your communication I really appreciate it. Did you actually practice each step taking this motor out and then video it because it sure looks like you've done this before
Hey john. Go to my videos and go to ski doo xr engine removal. That is the video.
Ski-Doo MXZ 1200 Rev XR Engine Removal. th-cam.com/video/qmAPrLFb6Ek/w-d-xo.html
There is a link john.
Also john if you would like to talk to me on the phone i do not mind helping you, go to the “About” section of my channel and click business inquires and it will show my email. Send me an email i will send you my phone number. Stuff like this is easier to talk about on the phone.
Was there any oil leaks?
Enlever starter
Comment enlever starter
Oil leaks is caused by lack of oil change
Where do you get that theory from? Acidic oil?
@@Schneids15 no cuz just like you i got a used 1200 i got rid of it juat like yoy the guy i got that 1200 from didnt do 1 oil change could smell the burnt oil i changed it and after that it started to leak all over
Odd. I only had that one leak and it was a very common leak. My oil was changed very regular. Always dealer serviced it’s whole life until i owned it.
@@Schneids15 i think the guy ahead of me cooked the engine maybe but that no oil change did it
Mine started leaking after an overheat when I first got my sled used. I think the oil tank warps or the o-rings get damaged. Not sure because I've just been living with it and checking the oil for now. It only leaks intermittently (occasional puddle on the floor) - it is strange.
4 stroke is the worst lol