Locust on the Lucas | Gosh, I love this machine...
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Milling up a Honey Locust on the Lucas Swingblade Sawmill. (This is a 2001 model 6-18 for anyone who cares... lol) I need a ton of 4x4s for posts for a super long raise garden bed. Locust makes great posts. As does cedar, which will go on next. Cedar and Locust are both naturally rot resistant and insect repellent. I will be milling 4x4, 6x6, and 2x6 for this project.
When i look at most operators videos, i cant hel but think that you dont value your logs high enough. The waste pile of slabs and edgings almost always includes pieces that contain pieces at lease 3/4 x 2.5 x 48"long, this piece is worth $1.50 Cdn to any mill that stickers or dries lumber on a per mfbm basis this pcs are worth 233.33 per mfbm. nor counting the cost of re-handling this material later for firewood or landfill.
Good point. I'm still learning how to get the most out of each log and have discarded some good sticker material - some short pieces on the big end of the log. Sometimes it's a toss up between the time to make a bunch of additional cuts vs keeping the bigger boards flying.
actually value per mfbm is $2400 per mfbm not 233.33
Can't you make the vertical cut first and the horizontal cut second; allowing a single operateor to remove or 'tail out' the timber (lumber) out the operator's end?
I have been doing that as a single operator, but have been "chastised" by (I assume) Lucas mill operators, who say the Lucas mill is not designed to cut vertical first. I've seen plenty of videos of guys cutting vertical first and then horizontal, using shims as the horizontal cut progresses. Seems to work ok but shaves the end of the board down a little as the blade exits the horizontal cut. I suppose with extra pressure caused by the weight of the board, the blade could get hotter cutting horizontal after cutting vertical. One guy told me that's why I need a 2nd person tailing for me. That is a luxury I rarely have.
I think most of you have an old table saw or skill saw around--What i did was mount a skill saw on a 1x8-- turned it with the blade facing up---- drew a series of parallels lines with a felt marker , nailed it to two sawhorses, and pushed all my short 1" side boards through it , then trimmed to pallet board lengths and instantly reduced the size of my slab pile and had stickers, pallet boards, and fencing for sale. I just hate to see wood fibre going to waste.
Hope you did catching poison oak, those tree's were converted in vines
I like the mill and you demonstrated it well.
Nice working. Watching from Australia. I had the pleasure of picking up my 10/30 mill directly from the Warren & Jenny Lucas at their facility in Victoria. The next thing you need to invest in is a four-in-one bucket for your backhoe to pick up those logs. Have fun.
Thanks for watching! I lucked up big time and found this 6-18 just a few hours away from me in Tennessee. It's a 2001 model, and he had a slabbing attachement, extensions, and several extra blades as well. And a 5x8 trailer with a lumber rack for hauling the mill around. Got a pretty killer deal on it.
I would love to meet the Lucas's. They seem like pretty cool folks from the videos I've watched.
And yes, I definitely could use a better way to move logs arounds besides ratchet straps or chains. A 4 in 1 bucket would be amazing! I'm just working with what I've got for now...
I use a set of forks on my tractor. I have a uni hitch so I can swap from bucket to forks pretty easy. Any logs over 5meters I load in from the end, I use a bucket for that.
I noticed that when you were piling your 4x4's that you picked them up about center and then turned them 180 degrees to pile on the stickered load-- i suggest you build a "jacking" post thats portable and place it where you can handle all the pieces from one end then "jack" it over to the new load-- this way you are reducing the weight of your lift by 50% and not subjecting your back to twisting and turning , effectively doing the exercise in an ergonomically correct method. This also works when unloading from the sawmill. Another point , when sticking for air or kiln drying, keep all the stickers aligned vertically and the ones at the end of the unit as close to the end as possible to minimize end checking of your boards.
You really should add the sidewinder to this mill. You’ll find it make your life much easier. I added one onto my 8 - 27 and it made so much difference.
We've come a long ways from Drew St.
Yes ma'am we sure have! God is good! We sure miss yall!
1st lol
You win! lol
Please show how to cut 4/4 6" boards with a mill like this.
J'ai besoin de cette machine à combien je peux l'avoir? Quelles sont vos conditions ?
Thx for sharing
My pleasure !
Nice work! I've got a Lucas Mill, never set up yet. Will be sawing this fall/winter. I was using chains to lift logs too, then got a grapple that works pretty well. They're not indestructible; mine is bent up a little after a few heavy lifts but still does its job. A few questions: Is that poison ivy vining around those logs? We've got poison oak everywhere here, on the ground, on the trees. Nasty stuff. Does locust make good firewood? I've seen advice about two passes on the horizontal cut - have you tried that, and does it help in any way? Did you sawmill those bunks/dunnage? Those are pretty nice and solid. Is there a way to stabilize the bottom of the log, or do you just have to cut until the bottom starts moving around and the rest is waste (or firewood)? Thanks.
yes 2 passes or no more that 3in per cut is what i use for horizontal - regarding the bottom - you can stop cutting that log - and then flip it upside down and mill again ontop of another flattened log.
@@icryostorm3727 Thanks! I will give that a try.