Firstly thankyou for the videos i'm in the process of tanking a basement now myself and getting humidity problems. The humidity is due to the air turnover in the room and some moisture being present, if you had enough incoming and exhaust air to turn all of the air in the room over a few times per hour the humidity would closely resemble that of the ambient outdoor air. Have you also tried instead of heating the air de humidifying the air as a cheaper alternative, you can get systems with pumps on them that only run when the relative humidity gets high and collected water is pumped through a hose to the closest drain, then the fans could be used just for good co2 levels when working in the workshop and turned off when not occupied
I also placed my humidity tester directly under the incoming air fan , literary blowing the air on to it and still it reads higher then outside. I have also left my fans on constant for hours , they take only 30 mins to exchange the air , still no different. The only thing that works is turning the radiator on , humidity drops drastically. Regarding the above I'm convinced its something to do with underground air pressure contracting the air on entry. Google confirmed air pressure does increase underground.
Hi mate, followed your other videos and tanked my cellar, I put my first coat of renovating plaster on yesterday and due to put another coat on today. I’m just curious if you put a finishing plaster coat on yours or not? Can you get a nice finish on the ‘base’ coat? Cheers
My renovating plaster went on as one 10 -12mm coat. No finishing coat . I might do one in future. Regarding the nice finish, the flatter your base the better your finish!
appreciate the honesty and update, very refreshing!
Firstly thankyou for the videos i'm in the process of tanking a basement now myself and getting humidity problems. The humidity is due to the air turnover in the room and some moisture being present, if you had enough incoming and exhaust air to turn all of the air in the room over a few times per hour the humidity would closely resemble that of the ambient outdoor air. Have you also tried instead of heating the air de humidifying the air as a cheaper alternative, you can get systems with pumps on them that only run when the relative humidity gets high and collected water is pumped through a hose to the closest drain, then the fans could be used just for good co2 levels when working in the workshop and turned off when not occupied
I also placed my humidity tester directly under the incoming air fan , literary blowing the air on to it and still it reads higher then outside.
I have also left my fans on constant for hours , they take only 30 mins to exchange the air , still no different.
The only thing that works is turning the radiator on , humidity drops drastically.
Regarding the above I'm convinced its something to do with underground air pressure contracting the air on entry.
Google confirmed air pressure does increase underground.
Hi mate, followed your other videos and tanked my cellar, I put my first coat of renovating plaster on yesterday and due to put another coat on today. I’m just curious if you put a finishing plaster coat on yours or not? Can you get a nice finish on the ‘base’ coat? Cheers
My renovating plaster went on as one 10 -12mm coat. No finishing coat . I might do one in future. Regarding the nice finish, the flatter your base the better your finish!
Rising damp as opposed to penetrating?
No chance...floor is waterproof.
Dehumidifier?
Too costly to run ....I like to address root of problem, not find temporary solutions.
Test