Just a note that I often use another method to cap straight walls. It's 2 of the metal pieces that i used on the front. One of each front and back. I screw wood into them at a bit wider than the size of the cap, then angle the wood to get the right width, put wet mortar in, level it and wait for it to set up a few minutes.. Then tap both sides to "break the bond", twist the wood to widen your form then lift off.
Are they screwed in to the wall first, and could you please tell me what they are that you are using, I have a huge wall that needs capping and your idea suits my job perfectly... I cannot afford actual capping or a tradesman so it’s a DIY, thanks in advance
Not screwed the the wall first. If you have the space, it is easier to get 2 pieces of 1 by 4 (about 8 ft long) must be nice and straight. and screw them together to the right width (flat) with 2 pieces of 1 by 2 (about 16 inches long) at about 2 ft and 6 ft along the lengths of the 8 ft sections. Don't put the 1 by 2 pieces straight across, put them at a bit of an angle, (because when you straighten the angle, it gets a tiny bit wider and you can take the boards off easier, then after a minute or 2 setting up, you tap the end of the 1 by 4's with the brick hammer to break the bond to the concrete slurry and then move the form to the next 8ft section of wall. You might need to let the cap set up for half an hour to 2 hrs (depending on how cold it is, before you do final work on it. These caps are only an inch or so thick but that is plenty. Usually made with coarse sand and a mix that is 3 sand to 1 cement or 4 sand to 1 cement. (Depending on how course the sand is). I hope that helps. I can clarify if it doesn't. Brian
Hi Colette, is your wall straight, or curved? This method is for straight walls. Regardless of if it is straight or curved, you should have an edger, and 2 wood "floats" for forming and compressing the concrete and fine tuning it before it sets up completely. And also a metal float trowel is handy for final smoothing before it completely sets up. I can dig up some old videos i made about capping and put them online to help you if you want.
Thanks for getting back to me sir, really appreciate it. I live in Australia, and it’s summer here, scorching temperatures and it’s humid. I have a straight wall, brick veneer, or also know as fake brick.. I noticed you were using metal and thought that was a really great idea, plus no drilling into walls, even better.. I’m doing this on my own and also don’t really want anything too heavy on the walls anyway.. so your video was exactly what I was looking for, and I’ve searched on here for weeks.. can I also use this technique on a pillar. Also, would you advise using quick dry cement or would that not give me much time to work with. Yes also to your additional videos, I would be interested to see what else you do,
Hi, Colette, don't use quick drying cement, (so you have enough time to work the material before it gets hard). On this, I used probably 3/4 inch or 1 inch round bar on the back and a 3'4 inch "U" bar on the front. The important thing, whether you use metal or wood, is to use straight material and use a level, across the top, to keep back and front level before and after you fill it with your mortar slurry. It might take me a couple of days to find my helpful videos and put them online.
That is handy tip !!! God blees you Brian
Just a note that I often use another method to cap straight walls. It's 2 of the metal pieces that i used on the front. One of each front and back. I screw wood into them at a bit wider than the size of the cap, then angle the wood to get the right width, put wet mortar in, level it and wait for it to set up a few minutes.. Then tap both sides to "break the bond", twist the wood to widen your form then lift off.
Awesome, how did the finish product turn out?
Are they screwed in to the wall first, and could you please tell me what they are that you are using, I have a huge wall that needs capping and your idea suits my job perfectly... I cannot afford actual capping or a tradesman so it’s a DIY, thanks in advance
Not screwed the the wall first. If you have the space, it is easier to get 2 pieces of 1 by 4 (about 8 ft long) must be nice and straight. and screw them together to the right width (flat) with 2 pieces of 1 by 2 (about 16 inches long) at about 2 ft and 6 ft along the lengths of the 8 ft sections. Don't put the 1 by 2 pieces straight across, put them at a bit of an angle, (because when you straighten the angle, it gets a tiny bit wider and you can take the boards off easier, then after a minute or 2 setting up, you tap the end of the 1 by 4's with the brick hammer to break the bond to the concrete slurry and then move the form to the next 8ft section of wall. You might need to let the cap set up for half an hour to 2 hrs (depending on how cold it is, before you do final work on it. These caps are only an inch or so thick but that is plenty. Usually made with coarse sand and a mix that is 3 sand to 1 cement or 4 sand to 1 cement. (Depending on how course the sand is). I hope that helps. I can clarify if it doesn't. Brian
Hi Colette, is your wall straight, or curved? This method is for straight walls. Regardless of if it is straight or curved, you should have an edger, and 2 wood "floats" for forming and compressing the concrete and fine tuning it before it sets up completely. And also a metal float trowel is handy for final smoothing before it completely sets up. I can dig up some old videos i made about capping and put them online to help you if you want.
Thanks for getting back to me sir, really appreciate it. I live in Australia, and it’s summer here, scorching temperatures and it’s humid. I have a straight wall, brick veneer, or also know as fake brick.. I noticed you were using metal and thought that was a really great idea, plus no drilling into walls, even better.. I’m doing this on my own and also don’t really want anything too heavy on the walls anyway.. so your video was exactly what I was looking for, and I’ve searched on here for weeks.. can I also use this technique on a pillar. Also, would you advise using quick dry cement or would that not give me much time to work with. Yes also to your additional videos, I would be interested to see what else you do,
Hi, Colette, don't use quick drying cement, (so you have enough time to work the material before it gets hard). On this, I used probably 3/4 inch or 1 inch round bar on the back and a 3'4 inch "U" bar on the front. The important thing, whether you use metal or wood, is to use straight material and use a level, across the top, to keep back and front level before and after you fill it with your mortar slurry. It might take me a couple of days to find my helpful videos and put them online.
Thank you sir, most helpful advice. I have subscribed, so I should be able to view. Thanks again