great stuff! I wonder why nobody talks about the needle packing screw as its a very important adjustment .One thing If I might add is to never over tighten the packing if using a regular screwdriver, It will mushroom out the packing and ruin it.Thank you for the video about this apparently taboo subject
I just did this on my H&S Silverline, and it feels brand new. It also is the most important component that decides how the trigger feels Definitely going to do this once a year from now on.
the needle packing screw is just like the battery in a cell phone, we all know there is one in there but your not suppose to mess with it...🔒 thanks again for the great content. Enjoy the holiday my friend.
As I have had my Harder Steinbeck for more than 25 years, the first type of packing with some teflon kind of material resulted in this issue some times. After the newer kind of packing, never had a problem with this. That being said, I never remove the needle by drawing it back. To avoid clogging up the inside I always unscrew the nozzles and push the needle out in the front direction.
I have a H&S Ultra I bought second hand online and was very confused as to why paint would leak back. Thanks to this video, I now know that the ptfe seal and packing screw were not included! No wonder it was at a good price reduction :D Thanks for the video!
you always talk about airbrushes I hope also in a next video Talk about dry and oil compressors, their peculiarities and which is the best in quality and longevity
Thank you. I was rebuilding my 10 year old Iwata HP-CS, I took it out and really had a hard time setting that packing screw. This is a perfect way to explain what I figured out on my own. It cost me a ruined packing screw. Great video.
How ironic, I watched this video a few days ago without realizing a big mistake I made the day prior. While cleaning my sotar, I got carried away with my barrel brush and pushed it into this area a few times. Now, after priming some minis, I'm noticing after cleaning that there is paint a bit further down my needle than it should be. Going to take it fully apart and try get a visual on that packing area. Looks like I'm buying a new body!
I have a couple of Sotars and if I am not mistaken they are a bit different from the regular Badgers. OK I just removed the needle seal/Bearing from one of my Sotars using the same type of tool that is shown on the video. On a Patriot or an Anthem I believe that the Needle seal is pressed into the body of the Airbrush and is not adjustable or really replaceable, but the Sotar has a Brass threaded tube very similar to the needle seal on a H&S or an Iwata but instead of the slotted Brass tube tightening up against a Teflon seal like the H&S the Sotar has the tubular nylon or Teflon Bearing (that's what Badger calls its Seal) imbedded into the end of the Brass threaded tube. I ordered a number of needle Seals/Bearings for my Sotars and received small teflon bushings that look exactly like the bushing that is imbedded into the threaded Brass tube that I removed from my Sotar's Body. When I need to replace that seal I will push out the old seal with a brass paper clip and carefully press in the new seal into the end of that threaded brass tube then screw it back into my Sotar. Making sure that I just barely snug it up as you would adjust that seal by turning the slotted brass tube into the body which would squeeze the seal, I assume.
@@douglascramer4403 Yes, I made that discovery, after inspecting the Teflon a little, I noticed the tube brush had scratched it slightly, but after reassembling it and retightening it, it doesnt seem to have affected its ability to stop the paint! I did however track down a used sotar slim for almost the same price as just the body so I might buy that just for the heck of it. Unfortunately I live in the outskirts of western Canada and finding any parts for a Badger is a headache!
Wish I had seen this video the same day I got my H&S Evolution. It arrived with a bad seal, no tension at all and I kept getting paint backflowing into the trigger. Seal replacement and it's working wonderfully now
sorry to hear that. I've seen that before from another brand where the packing seal was too loose. Simple adjustment though! Glad to hear you were able to sort it out.
That's exactly the info I need, thank you. Here in Adelaide, South Australia, I ordered a replacement teflon packing screw from an online store but based here in Adelaide. The cost including mailing was A$30 (US$19)! I like to support a local business but the charges are outrageous. Probably cheaper if I ordered it from Japan.
The place is dodgy, they don't included tax in their price which is illegal in Australia. I ordered a replacement needle from him once and it came bent, he told me to take it up with Iwata (again illegal) and then stopped replying to my emails.
Thank you so much, I am just starting out and your videos are so helpful. Appreciate your effort and work to share your knowledge. I am watching every video of yours that I can find. And love your work, you are very talented!!!
Awesome!!! Thanks for the info! I actually have a back flow problem and just cleaned it with IPA. Your solution is so much easier to do in the future. 🙌
Very helpful video, especially the information on the iwata cm-sb. My needle has been hanging up along with my trigger giving me a lot of trouble. It actually gets loose and won't let the needle work smoothly at all. I called Coast Airbrush and they were very helpful, but seeing a visual on just how to adjust it is really appreciated! Thank you, very much! 🙂🎨
Great tutorial, thank you so much for sharing. I have several that need this adjusted. Also, I have a Sotar 20/20 and I love it. Have a great week. -David
I've been out of the loop for a while had my foot amputated. Looks like the list got so long had to do a visual list. That's great thing. Tha ks for the tips as usual
What I don't understand is why don't you have any links to a website featuring your works (with contact info for commissions). These glimpses of your paintings are too short to fully appreciate their wonders.
Awesome, I've been having problems with my iwatavneo. Thoroughly cleaned it yet it doesn't blow paint like it's blowing back so I'm thinking it my be something to do with this screw, didn't know it existed.
Excellent video! This explains what was going wrong in my Harbor Freight cheap Iwata clone. Do you know if the needle packing screw on the Badger 150-F is adjustable?
I accidentally put paint into the cup without the needle in, and it fully gummed up the inside of the trigger assembly. I was able to clean most of it out with alcohol, but I cant get some of it to break up and the trigger is a bit stiff when pushing down for air. Any suggestions to fix this? It seems like the upper portion of the trigger assembly doesn't come out easily and/or I've yet to see anyone break the gun down that far, and don't want to risk popping something that was pressure fit. Iwata Highline CH
So, I had to replace a needle packing screw in my Iwata HP-B recently. I've adjusted the needle with just a little tension. However, when I tried it out with the new needle packing screw, air flow was fine, but paint would not com out. Paint (Tamiya) was thinned 50/50, but still no paint coming out even with the normal air flow. Nozzle (.2mm) is clear and needle passes through the needle packing screw fine. Not sure what I did wrong or what needs to be adjusted. The original needle packing screw had a rubber seal while the replacement is the white teflon type. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
Thanks for the info. I thought this was going to be the magic bullet for my H+S Ultra and bought a needle packing screwdriver like you have. I could see daylight between the needle and the seal so assume it was not making a good seal. Problem is, the screw wouldn't tighten any further so can't make it any better. I have ordered new PTFE seals - do you think this could be the issue this time? HOPING SO!!! Keep up the good work
Yes, those small metal ones are pretty cheaply made. They get the job done for me because I use it like once or twice a year. Iwata makes a much nicer one.
The answer to your question is - No. Don't attempt to do this to a badger airbrush. Badger airbrushes use a pressed in teflon bearing sleeve. It is not adjustable in any way. At least for the vast majority of them, including the 360. There is an exception in some of the 'renegade' line and maybe a few others. Publicly, they don't want you to attempt to replace a worn out bearing seal yourself either. They do not make the tools, materials, and process public knowledge. There are people out there that have documented how to do it and there are 3rd party places you can order a seal from. That being said, there's not really a good reason to do this. Badger lifetime warranties the needle bearing seal. If it wears out, they will replace it free of charge. You do have to pay shipping though.
After 10 years of use on using my Iwata Eclipse SBS, my needle now has a 'lose' point when it gets to the packing seal, ie the metal of needle has worn down. I could tighten the seal to make it better at the sealing point, but because of the no doubt uneven wear on the needle, would say it's time to replace both needle and seal? Thanks.
sounds like it's time to replace them both. 10 years is pretty awesome though! It should feel like new again when you swap them out for new ones. Best of luck to you!
@@theartworkshop I have now fitted the new needle and packing seal, I can report back to you the gun now feels great again and I have good air and paint flow. Thank you 🙂
the link for the Adjustment Screwdriver doesn't lead you to that specific product but to the "ABEST 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.5mm Airbrush Nozzle Airbrush Needle Nozzle Cap Replacement Parts for Airbrush Spray Gun Sprayer Accessories"
You can damage that packing by using the wrong end of the needle. The sharp 90° edge will cut the seal whereas the tapered needle will gradually slide through the packing without damage. The seal isn’t in the dead center so you won’t poke it.
it's possible, but I never had a problem. The prong on the end of a packing screw screwdriver is the same as the back of a needle, 90° with no taper. I agree though if you want to be safe, go with the front of the needle. This is just what I do, and it's what works best for me.
Excellent video! I'm glad you pointed out that back flushing to mix paint is a terrible idea; it's OK for cleaning once the cup is relatively flushed out. The needle lubes from Badger and Iwata are great for the needle only just as you advised. I have been using a little airbrush lubricant I got from Amazon on the trigger [large white bottle] that reminds me of sewing oil. It doesn't congeal and gum up like superlube does, and it makes the trigger action smoother. I think it also helps the consistency of the trigger response on my h & s airbrushes, at least a little bit. H & S just came up with a radically redesigned Ultra which I'm willing to bet fixes their trigger response. I think this because Dred FX, another airbrush TH-camr, previously focused on the trigger issue with a fix using strategically placed and slightly reamed out double washers, and now he's very excited about the performance of the radically new Ultra. Looks like redesigns of the Evolution & Infinity [my favorites] will be forthcoming! Truly a great time to be an airbrush user!
I'll check this seal with my neo I got it last year used it a handful of times and now it's like blowing back air through the trigger it's been cleaned and ultrasonic cleaned lobbed tightened the valve still doing it! It's under warranty still but can't be bothered with all that I've got other's but not the point! It was under 3 months old when it packed up and not been used since! Never buy an iwata again! I know ow it's a Neo not really made by them but for them but still carries that name so puts me off!
ultrasonic cleaners are brutal. They clean very well, but I broke a $500 airbrush and a few nozzles using them. Since then, I stay far away from them with any airbrush.
i just bought a brand new Iwata eclipse and it came with the lube, should i lube it before i use it for first time or is it already factory lubed .Thank you for your video
I'm just gonna put this out there for anybody that needs to know and might see this later - This video *mostly* does not apply to badger airbrushes. The vast majority of them use a pressed in teflon bearing sleeve that is not adjustable or user servicable. If it wears out, it's lifetime warrantied. There are a couple exceptions. I know that some of the renegade line use this type of seal with adjustable tension. To get a clear answer for a specific badger model, you'll have to consult your manual.
In firearms, you avoid oil lubes in some places because it runs all over and collects fouling etc... so what we do is we use a silicone grease (like Superlube PTFE grease) and spot apply it so it only stays where it needs to be. It wills till collect stuff as you have noticed, but it will be less spread out and contained so it doesn't pick up too much gunk.
@@theartworkshop For sure! Another amazing thing is that Superlube PTFE works on... gosh darn near everythign haha, and it comes in cheap $20 CAD tubs, sometimes 16 for just a ridiculous amount. There are competition shooters in IPSC who use it in the summers haha. And almost every airsofter has swapped to it, and as superlube PTFE is DIalectric it doesn't conduct electrivity and we use it in/around electronics too. Your channel really inspired me to get into airbrushing btw, just starting my journey as of a couple weeks ago... I do A LOT of research haha. I picked up a cheap Neoco kit with some accessories, a Aigoo $145 compressor... and coming this november will be a Harder & Steinbeck Squidmar Ultra! I'll be doing miniatures, I would love to do portraits too but... not sure I can anymore, a medication ltierally took away my "minds eye" or ability to make mental images :/. Which sucks! I used to have eclectic memory and even lucid dream states... it's been, an adjustment. Being in a creative field it sure sucks to lose that skill.
I dunno, I feel like putting the needle in backwards like that would risk damaging the seal more? If the seal is over compressed you're now trying to push something through which is larger than the orifice. If you put it in sharp side first you'll feel it incrementally become harder to push through and you can stop before putting too much pressure on it. The backend of the airbrush will guide the pointy end to the centre of the seal so it wont hit the seal itself (and even if it did, you shouldn't use any force when putting the needle in in the first place so you'd stop pushing as you feel the needle stop).
a good point for sure. It's the way I've been doing it for years and haven't had an issue. The prong on the front of the tool I used is basically the same thing as the back of a needle
![เขามัทรี - เอ็กซ์ ศุภกฤต - จอนนี่มิวสิค [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AS9ufKuQIVs/mqdefault.jpg)
great stuff! I wonder why nobody talks about the needle packing screw as its a very important adjustment .One thing If I might add is to never over tighten the packing if using a regular screwdriver, It will mushroom out the packing and ruin it.Thank you for the video about this apparently taboo subject
great point Duane. Thank you for this!
I just did this on my H&S Silverline, and it feels brand new.
It also is the most important component that decides how the trigger feels
Definitely going to do this once a year from now on.
it helps a lot, i agree.
Wow I didn’t realise it affected trigger feel. Thanks!
Thanks, great advice. Just make sure there are absolutely no burrs on the back end of the needle as this could damage the seal.
the needle packing screw is just like the battery in a cell phone, we all know there is one in there but your not suppose to mess with it...🔒 thanks again for the great content. Enjoy the holiday my friend.
haha love that! thank you
phone makers love you not messing with it once it goes bad to buy a new one
Man, that art at 5:54 is just stunning. Amazing work.
Just started painting and i was having a couple issues and this fixed all of them . I’m going to buy replacement assemblies just in case .Very helpful
Your video is most excellent. No mindless chatter. Low key but flows smoothly and has a lot of useful info. I subscribed because of it. Thx
I really appreciate that. Thank you
Your videos are truly gems. Appreciate all the effort you put into all your videos. Thanks!!!
i really appreciate that. Thanks!
As I have had my Harder Steinbeck for more than 25 years, the first type of packing with some teflon kind of material resulted in this issue some times. After the newer kind of packing, never had a problem with this. That being said, I never remove the needle by drawing it back. To avoid clogging up the inside I always unscrew the nozzles and push the needle out in the front direction.
Very good tutorial. Thank you.
thanks!
fantastic as always. Carry on and thanks
I have a H&S Ultra I bought second hand online and was very confused as to why paint would leak back. Thanks to this video, I now know that the ptfe seal and packing screw were not included! No wonder it was at a good price reduction :D Thanks for the video!
you always talk about airbrushes I hope also in a next video Talk about dry and oil compressors, their peculiarities and which is the best in quality and longevity
i'll keep that in mind for a future video. thanks!
Thank you. I was rebuilding my 10 year old Iwata HP-CS, I took it out and really had a hard time setting that packing screw. This is a perfect way to explain what I figured out on my own. It cost me a ruined packing screw. Great video.
You are the real deal and that is pretty rare no one has inspired me more to take up the airbrush.
Thank you so much for sharing such important information ❤❤❤❤
Thanks for this clear information, really useful
I just subscribed and I'm new to the airbrush. I'm a technical old guy and this awesome video is info much needed. Thank you very much!
Awesome, thank you! it doesn't matter what age you get into painting. Best of luck to you!
How ironic, I watched this video a few days ago without realizing a big mistake I made the day prior. While cleaning my sotar, I got carried away with my barrel brush and pushed it into this area a few times. Now, after priming some minis, I'm noticing after cleaning that there is paint a bit further down my needle than it should be. Going to take it fully apart and try get a visual on that packing area. Looks like I'm buying a new body!
I have a couple of Sotars and if I am not mistaken they are a bit different from the regular Badgers. OK I just removed the needle seal/Bearing from one of my Sotars using the same type of tool that is shown on the video. On a Patriot or an Anthem I believe that the Needle seal is pressed into the body of the Airbrush and is not adjustable or really replaceable, but the Sotar has a Brass threaded tube very similar to the needle seal on a H&S or an Iwata but instead of the slotted Brass tube tightening up against a Teflon seal like the H&S the Sotar has the tubular nylon or Teflon Bearing (that's what Badger calls its Seal) imbedded into the end of the Brass threaded tube. I ordered a number of needle Seals/Bearings for my Sotars and received small teflon bushings that look exactly like the bushing that is imbedded into the threaded Brass tube that I removed from my Sotar's Body. When I need to replace that seal I will push out the old seal with a brass paper clip and carefully press in the new seal into the end of that threaded brass tube then screw it back into my Sotar. Making sure that I just barely snug it up as you would adjust that seal by turning the slotted brass tube into the body which would squeeze the seal, I assume.
@@douglascramer4403 Yes, I made that discovery, after inspecting the Teflon a little, I noticed the tube brush had scratched it slightly, but after reassembling it and retightening it, it doesnt seem to have affected its ability to stop the paint! I did however track down a used sotar slim for almost the same price as just the body so I might buy that just for the heck of it. Unfortunately I live in the outskirts of western Canada and finding any parts for a Badger is a headache!
Wish I had seen this video the same day I got my H&S Evolution. It arrived with a bad seal, no tension at all and I kept getting paint backflowing into the trigger. Seal replacement and it's working wonderfully now
sorry to hear that. I've seen that before from another brand where the packing seal was too loose. Simple adjustment though! Glad to hear you were able to sort it out.
Great video. I’m a visual learner and your illustrations were so helpful ! Thank you. I subscribed 👍
Great video!
thanks!
Thank you so much for the info you put out there. I have learned so much from your channel. Now i can use my airbrush with confidence.
so happy to hear that! I appreciate it very much- thank you.
That's exactly the info I need, thank you. Here in Adelaide, South Australia, I ordered a replacement teflon packing screw from an online store but based here in Adelaide. The cost including mailing was A$30 (US$19)! I like to support a local business but the charges are outrageous. Probably cheaper if I ordered it from Japan.
The place is dodgy, they don't included tax in their price which is illegal in Australia. I ordered a replacement needle from him once and it came bent, he told me to take it up with Iwata (again illegal) and then stopped replying to my emails.
ThankYou so much for the thoroughness of information. Highly considerate.
Thank you so much, I am just starting out and your videos are so helpful. Appreciate your effort and work to share your knowledge. I am watching every video of yours that I can find. And love your work, you are very talented!!!
You're very welcome. Glad to hear it!
Awesome!!! Thanks for the info! I actually have a back flow problem and just cleaned it with IPA. Your solution is so much easier to do in the future. 🙌
Very helpful video, especially the information on the iwata cm-sb. My needle has been hanging up along with my trigger giving me a lot of trouble. It actually gets loose and won't let the needle work smoothly at all. I called Coast Airbrush and they were very helpful, but seeing a visual on just how to adjust it is really appreciated! Thank you, very much! 🙂🎨
the guys over at coast are awesome. happy to hear you got it fixed!
@@theartworkshop It's not totally fixed yet, but after watching your video I'm sure it will be... Thanks again!
Thanks buddy - very useful
thanks!
Great tutorial, thank you so much for sharing. I have several that need this adjusted. Also, I have a Sotar 20/20 and I love it.
Have a great week.
-David
Thank you and same to you!
How do I purchase this device.
Really helpful to a newbie like me, thanks
I learnt something new today. Thank you :)
I've been out of the loop for a while had my foot amputated. Looks like the list got so long had to do a visual list. That's great thing. Tha ks for the tips as usual
what?! are you okay?! I'm really sorry to hear this.
My brushes are iwata and badger I have no need to update to new guns over my badger brushes just love them.
Fine video thanks for sharing ❤
Excellent information. Very helpful.
Thank you. Great presentation.
Thanks so much!
Very helpful video, thanks! Fiddly little things airbrushes in my limited experience so far!
Great to hear! They sure are at first, but it gets much much easier in time
I do feel a lot more confident already having stripped and reassembled a dozen times!
Excellent demo and helpful info
I find my needle to tight but can't tell if its paint that needs to be cleaned or this screw will this stop the spray at the start of a stroke?
This is so helpful. Thanks
Great advice, thanks for sharing 👍✌️😊💜
I only do this a little bit between coats because I'm affraid that it drys before the next coat
What I don't understand is why don't you have any links to a website featuring your works (with contact info for commissions). These glimpses of your paintings are too short to fully appreciate their wonders.
Great information! Thank you 😎👍
Very helpful, thank you
Great knowledge, thanks for sharing
Never thought of backwashing that way and Ive been doing it for 30 years..lol. Thanks
glad it was helpful!
Awesome, I've been having problems with my iwatavneo. Thoroughly cleaned it yet it doesn't blow paint like it's blowing back so I'm thinking it my be something to do with this screw, didn't know it existed.
Excellent video! This explains what was going wrong in my Harbor Freight cheap Iwata clone. Do you know if the needle packing screw on the Badger 150-F is adjustable?
thanks so much! Wish I could help, but I'm not sure about the packing screw on the badger 150.
Thank you
Very good!
Excellent!
Very interesting video
Bravo!
Thanks!
Mike! Thank you so very much for this! That is so kind and generous of you and I really appreciate it. Have a great weekend
thanks!
I accidentally put paint into the cup without the needle in, and it fully gummed up the inside of the trigger assembly. I was able to clean most of it out with alcohol, but I cant get some of it to break up and the trigger is a bit stiff when pushing down for air. Any suggestions to fix this? It seems like the upper portion of the trigger assembly doesn't come out easily and/or I've yet to see anyone break the gun down that far, and don't want to risk popping something that was pressure fit. Iwata Highline CH
Thanks a lot.. 👍👍👍
So it works like a jet ?
Très intéressant merci pour explication
So, I had to replace a needle packing screw in my Iwata HP-B recently. I've adjusted the needle with just a little tension. However, when I tried it out with the new needle packing screw, air flow was fine, but paint would not com out. Paint (Tamiya) was thinned 50/50, but still no paint coming out even with the normal air flow. Nozzle (.2mm) is clear and needle passes through the needle packing screw fine. Not sure what I did wrong or what needs to be adjusted. The original needle packing screw had a rubber seal while the replacement is the white teflon type. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
Thanks for the info. I thought this was going to be the magic bullet for my H+S Ultra and bought a needle packing screwdriver like you have. I could see daylight between the needle and the seal so assume it was not making a good seal. Problem is, the screw wouldn't tighten any further so can't make it any better. I have ordered new PTFE seals - do you think this could be the issue this time? HOPING SO!!! Keep up the good work
thanks! sounds like its worn out or damaged which happens. I'm sure the new seal will fix it.
Great! Thanks for the reply - really appreciate it@@theartworkshop
Allot of negative reviews on the packing screwdriver you referenced, is this the same one you use?
Yes, those small metal ones are pretty cheaply made. They get the job done for me because I use it like once or twice a year. Iwata makes a much nicer one.
I never knew what that small window in some airbrushes were for, lol....
I just bought a new badger 360, would that also be the screw in type ?
no idea sorry. reach out to badger!
The answer to your question is - No. Don't attempt to do this to a badger airbrush. Badger airbrushes use a pressed in teflon bearing sleeve. It is not adjustable in any way.
At least for the vast majority of them, including the 360. There is an exception in some of the 'renegade' line and maybe a few others.
Publicly, they don't want you to attempt to replace a worn out bearing seal yourself either. They do not make the tools, materials, and process public knowledge. There are people out there that have documented how to do it and there are 3rd party places you can order a seal from. That being said, there's not really a good reason to do this. Badger lifetime warranties the needle bearing seal. If it wears out, they will replace it free of charge. You do have to pay shipping though.
After 10 years of use on using my Iwata Eclipse SBS, my needle now has a 'lose' point when it gets to the packing seal, ie the metal of needle has worn down. I could tighten the seal to make it better at the sealing point, but because of the no doubt uneven wear on the needle, would say it's time to replace both needle and seal? Thanks.
sounds like it's time to replace them both. 10 years is pretty awesome though! It should feel like new again when you swap them out for new ones. Best of luck to you!
@@theartworkshop Thank you very much for your reply.
@@theartworkshop I have now fitted the new needle and packing seal, I can report back to you the gun now feels great again and I have good air and paint flow. Thank you 🙂
so happy to hear it. Here is to another 10 years!! @@SwiftSlots
do all air brushes haved this feature
What air brush would you recommend for painting armor models?Thank you for that information.Great information
bunch of good options- the eclipse hp-cs is my favorite. Harder steenbeck evo24 is very good. Sotar2020 is another one I love.
@@theartworkshop Thanks for the info I really appreciate it
the link for the Adjustment Screwdriver doesn't lead you to that specific product but to the "ABEST 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.5mm Airbrush Nozzle Airbrush Needle Nozzle Cap Replacement Parts for Airbrush Spray Gun Sprayer Accessories"
I could not find link for screw drive you mention?
You can damage that packing by using the wrong end of the needle. The sharp 90° edge will cut the seal whereas the tapered needle will gradually slide through the packing without damage. The seal isn’t in the dead center so you won’t poke it.
it's possible, but I never had a problem. The prong on the end of a packing screw screwdriver is the same as the back of a needle, 90° with no taper. I agree though if you want to be safe, go with the front of the needle. This is just what I do, and it's what works best for me.
Is it wrong to clean after every time airbrush paint
Excellent video! I'm glad you pointed out that back flushing to mix paint is a terrible idea; it's OK for cleaning once the cup is relatively flushed out. The needle lubes from Badger and Iwata are great for the needle only just as you advised. I have been using a little airbrush lubricant I got from Amazon on the trigger [large white bottle] that reminds me of sewing oil. It doesn't congeal and gum up like superlube does, and it makes the trigger action smoother. I think it also helps the consistency of the trigger response on my h & s airbrushes, at least a little bit. H & S just came up with a radically redesigned Ultra which I'm willing to bet fixes their trigger response. I think this because Dred FX, another airbrush TH-camr, previously focused on the trigger issue with a fix using strategically placed and slightly reamed out double washers, and now he's very excited about the performance of the radically new Ultra. Looks like redesigns of the Evolution & Infinity [my favorites] will be forthcoming! Truly a great time to be an airbrush user!
I'll check this seal with my neo I got it last year used it a handful of times and now it's like blowing back air through the trigger it's been cleaned and ultrasonic cleaned lobbed tightened the valve still doing it! It's under warranty still but can't be bothered with all that I've got other's but not the point! It was under 3 months old when it packed up and not been used since! Never buy an iwata again! I know ow it's a Neo not really made by them but for them but still carries that name so puts me off!
ultrasonic cleaners are brutal. They clean very well, but I broke a $500 airbrush and a few nozzles using them. Since then, I stay far away from them with any airbrush.
i just bought a brand new Iwata eclipse and it came with the lube, should i lube it before i use it for first time or is it already factory lubed .Thank you for your video
No need to on a new airbrush. a small amount won't hurt anything, but it's not necessary.
@@theartworkshop just i heard it helps with tip dry ?
Modern Acrylics are way more advanced 👍
👍👍👍👍👍
Obrigada 👍🍻👏👏👏👏👏
I'm just gonna put this out there for anybody that needs to know and might see this later -
This video *mostly* does not apply to badger airbrushes. The vast majority of them use a pressed in teflon bearing sleeve that is not adjustable or user servicable. If it wears out, it's lifetime warrantied.
There are a couple exceptions. I know that some of the renegade line use this type of seal with adjustable tension. To get a clear answer for a specific badger model, you'll have to consult your manual.
In firearms, you avoid oil lubes in some places because it runs all over and collects fouling etc... so what we do is we use a silicone grease (like Superlube PTFE grease) and spot apply it so it only stays where it needs to be. It wills till collect stuff as you have noticed, but it will be less spread out and contained so it doesn't pick up too much gunk.
that's a very good point and a great tip. Thanks for this!
@@theartworkshop For sure! Another amazing thing is that Superlube PTFE works on... gosh darn near everythign haha, and it comes in cheap $20 CAD tubs, sometimes 16 for just a ridiculous amount. There are competition shooters in IPSC who use it in the summers haha. And almost every airsofter has swapped to it, and as superlube PTFE is DIalectric it doesn't conduct electrivity and we use it in/around electronics too.
Your channel really inspired me to get into airbrushing btw, just starting my journey as of a couple weeks ago... I do A LOT of research haha. I picked up a cheap Neoco kit with some accessories, a Aigoo $145 compressor... and coming this november will be a Harder & Steinbeck Squidmar Ultra! I'll be doing miniatures, I would love to do portraits too but... not sure I can anymore, a medication ltierally took away my "minds eye" or ability to make mental images :/.
Which sucks! I used to have eclectic memory and even lucid dream states... it's been, an adjustment. Being in a creative field it sure sucks to lose that skill.
awesome! Glad to hear you're enjoying painting. Keep at it! @@ErgonomicChair
I dunno, I feel like putting the needle in backwards like that would risk damaging the seal more? If the seal is over compressed you're now trying to push something through which is larger than the orifice. If you put it in sharp side first you'll feel it incrementally become harder to push through and you can stop before putting too much pressure on it. The backend of the airbrush will guide the pointy end to the centre of the seal so it wont hit the seal itself (and even if it did, you shouldn't use any force when putting the needle in in the first place so you'd stop pushing as you feel the needle stop).
a good point for sure. It's the way I've been doing it for years and haven't had an issue. The prong on the front of the tool I used is basically the same thing as the back of a needle
Thanks bro, even sob* manufacturers not explaning like you...
🎈🎈👍👍😁😄🎈
thst pic was amazing your definatly badazz painter