Good question!!! It depends on whhich shingle your using and what type of valley your installing. If I'm using an architectural style shingle I will start in the valley whether Im weaving or installing a closed cut valley. If I'm using a three tab I lead into the valley so the bond remains straight. When working the valley in three tabs try to make sure the valley always gets a full shingle and that the leading edge crosses the valley by 8 to 12 inches. This can be achieved by removing a tab ...
The metal valley commonly called the California Valley is also a good alternative if done correctly although some Shingle maufacturers wont fulfill their lifetime warrenty with anything other than the closed cut valley. In my part of the country I see very few California valleys except for a few Ive seen on commercial buildings. Have a great day friend and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the great how-to video! Roofing jobs are much easier to tackle after you've seen good examples of how to complete each step. We've got some videos on our channel as well, about how to install ridge vents and such. Anyway, happy roofing! - Quarrix
Hades Dillinger I usually run my valleys in first just makes it work out easier. Ive heard that the california valley is the shingle running verticle up the valley thereby eliminating the need for the closed cut. Personally I dont like the bulge of the California valley. What I call a metal valley is an open valley. Its nice being below the rain snow line. You know they push that ice and water shield like its some kind of miracle product. I have may examples of the stuff leaking in the winter when the material shrinks away from the nails because of the cold. Purty decent video there buddy
Put youre drip edge on ..make 12 inch mark for youre starters ..then just go 5 1/2 inches off youre 12 inch mark all the way up ..chalk you're lined and rock n roll ..start one shingle out and cut 6 inches off your next all the way up the rake and that will stagger you're shingles on the whole roof..I like to run straight up and have a guy next to me working the next row in as we go ..I believe it's faster that way ....I know that's not what shingle pack says n all that and know how to do it that way..but theres nothing wrong with the way I just told u to do it and it's easier to understand for people that don't roof ..and also pull 12 inches off your vertical edge and chalk a line and that gives you one inch overhang on your rake edge also and when you put your starter shingle on you flip it upside down by the way ..then put your regular shingle directly over top of it then go from there ..same thing on the rake edge ..look up on youtube how to California style a valley it's easy..
Put Mark's on you're tape so it's easy to see and mark you're tape every 5 1/2 inches ...every other number will be even like 11 22 33 44 55 66 and so on
Nice video. When you mentioned you would be letting your shingles stick over an 1.25". Do you mean they will stick over the rake an 1.25"? Thanks (2:55 time mark)
One thing I can say is never nail within 6 inchs of either side of the valley whether your weaving of close cutting a valley. Are you gonna weave or close cut that three tab valley?
thank you for the video, i am doing my own roof. not quit sure i understand the valleys. i am using 3 tab. you say to let them overlap the valley by 8 to 12 inches. once they cross the valley, won't that cause the bond to angle? also, saw one video that said to nail through the goop on the shingles in the valleys. is it possible to do that and still not nail anything within 6 inches of either side of the valley? thanks for the help and i am subscribed rich
I did not pop chalk lines and now am about midway up my roof, tying into existing shlingles and noticed the new ones are a little off, such that you can see the nail line. Frustrating. I'm guessing I have to tear off half my roof to finish the new shingles and deal with them being a little off from the old
.....cont......a tab or two leading into the valley....this may sound confusing by try to make sure there are no breaks in the valley and that nothing needs to be nailed within 6 inchs from the center of the valley on either side.....hope this helps...take care
If you run your felt straight you just saved yourself a whole lot of time.... You don't need to do that unless you're doing tile and maybe slate, if you want... The felt has plenty of straight lines on it already.
The felt has parallel lines. The whole point of the video is how to deal with a ridge and eave that aren't parallel. Run straight or not, the lines on the felt won't accomplish this.
Thanks for the video, im new to roofing and these kinds of videos help me in learning to do good quality work.
thanks friend! Have a great day!
Good question!!! It depends on whhich shingle your using and what type of valley your installing. If I'm using an architectural style shingle I will start in the valley whether Im weaving or installing a closed cut valley. If I'm using a three tab I lead into the valley so the bond remains straight. When working the valley in three tabs try to make sure the valley always gets a full shingle and that the leading edge crosses the valley by 8 to 12 inches. This can be achieved by removing a tab ...
The metal valley commonly called the California Valley is also a good alternative if done correctly although some Shingle maufacturers wont fulfill their lifetime warrenty with anything other than the closed cut valley. In my part of the country I see very few California valleys except for a few Ive seen on commercial buildings. Have a great day friend and thanks for the comment.
Thank you! I will check out your videos! Have a good day!
Thanks for the great how-to video! Roofing jobs are much easier to tackle after you've seen good examples of how to complete each step. We've got some videos on our channel as well, about how to install ridge vents and such. Anyway, happy roofing!
- Quarrix
Thanks again!
nice work
Your welcome! Have a good day!
Hades Dillinger I usually run my valleys in first just makes it work out easier. Ive heard that the california valley is the shingle running verticle up the valley thereby eliminating the need for the closed cut. Personally I dont like the bulge of the California valley. What I call a metal valley is an open valley. Its nice being below the rain snow line. You know they push that ice and water shield like its some kind of miracle product. I have may examples of the stuff leaking in the winter when the material shrinks away from the nails because of the cold. Purty decent video there buddy
California style valley is the way to go ..get a nice straight valley every time ..weaving a valley is thing of the past
Put youre drip edge on ..make 12 inch mark for youre starters ..then just go 5 1/2 inches off youre 12 inch mark all the way up ..chalk you're lined and rock n roll ..start one shingle out and cut 6 inches off your next all the way up the rake and that will stagger you're shingles on the whole roof..I like to run straight up and have a guy next to me working the next row in as we go ..I believe it's faster that way ....I know that's not what shingle pack says n all that and know how to do it that way..but theres nothing wrong with the way I just told u to do it and it's easier to understand for people that don't roof ..and also pull 12 inches off your vertical edge and chalk a line and that gives you one inch overhang on your rake edge also and when you put your starter shingle on you flip it upside down by the way ..then put your regular shingle directly over top of it then go from there ..same thing on the rake edge ..look up on youtube how to California style a valley it's easy..
Put Mark's on you're tape so it's easy to see and mark you're tape every 5 1/2 inches ...every other number will be even like 11 22 33 44 55 66 and so on
Nice video. When you mentioned you would be letting your shingles stick over an 1.25". Do you mean they will stick over the rake an 1.25"? Thanks (2:55 time mark)
thanks for the info bro.
Your welcome! and thank you for the comment! I'm glad you found my video helpful. Take care!
Hey any tips on how to properly straighten out courses that have gone askew while running them when dealing with specialty shingles..?
One thing I can say is never nail within 6 inchs of either side of the valley whether your weaving of close cutting a valley. Are you gonna weave or close cut that three tab valley?
thank you for the video, i am doing my own roof. not quit sure i understand the valleys. i am using 3 tab. you say to let them overlap the valley by 8 to 12 inches. once they cross the valley, won't that cause the bond to angle? also, saw one video that said to nail through the goop on the shingles in the valleys. is it possible to do that and still not nail anything within 6 inches of either side of the valley? thanks for the help and i am subscribed
rich
are you supposed to install the valleys first or install the shingles on the perimeter of the roof first?
Ice guard is not required in this part of the country but we did install it first before the felt was laid down. Have a great day friend!
Thanks for the comment and yes Id love to see some of your videos. Let me know when you have some. Take care
man i pretty sure you know what you doing, but I'm lost already hahah... nice vid tho....
I did not pop chalk lines and now am about midway up my roof, tying into existing shlingles and noticed the new ones are a little off, such that you can see the nail line. Frustrating. I'm guessing I have to tear off half my roof to finish the new shingles and deal with them being a little off from the old
Jeremy Roeder if you can see the nailing row, or even the hurricane line you are in trouble
.....cont......a tab or two leading into the valley....this may sound confusing by try to make sure there are no breaks in the valley and that nothing needs to be nailed within 6 inchs from the center of the valley on either side.....hope this helps...take care
CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHY THEY WOULD USE A 3 TAB INSTEAD OF AN ARCH,,SEEING HOW THEIR VIRTUALLY THE SAME PRICE NOW DAYS
Wheres the ice guard at in valley
If you run your felt straight you just saved yourself a whole lot of time.... You don't need to do that unless you're doing tile and maybe slate, if you want... The felt has plenty of straight lines on it already.
some of these guys waste alot of time.
Not necessarly i worked in florida where theyre super strict and wanted people to chalk lines
The felt has parallel lines. The whole point of the video is how to deal with a ridge and eave that aren't parallel. Run straight or not, the lines on the felt won't accomplish this.
theres an easy trick to making up that inch.
King of the Hill is making vids...cooool (butthead)
Any time you see someone snapping chalk lines to lay comp you know he doesn't know shit about roofing.
yes and I can garenteed if you do roofing with no lines , your shit is crooked