The biggest MISTAKE I made ordering my pop-up camper - would love to hear your suggestions!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this bonus extra mid-week video, I talk about the mistake I made when I ordered my Topo Toppers Mesa wedge pop-up truck camper on my Nissan Frontier. Nothing wrong with the camper itself...I absolutely LOVE this thing. There's just one additional upgrade I wish I had opted to have Topo install when I configured my camper.
Now I need to figure out a DIY approach. I'll walk you through everything I've thought of (and why most ideas won't work). I would love to hear what you think or what possible approaches I'm not thinking of.
UPDATE: This video shares the solution I ended up with:
• New aftermarket produc...
Topo Toppers Mesa wedge camper:
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Alldogs Offroad/Koni 2" lift kit:
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Alldogs Offroad wheels for Frontier/Xterra:
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ASFIR 4x4 skid plates:
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Recovery gear from Yankum Ropes:
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(use code SOFTROADINGTHEWEST for a discount off your purchase)
Reign Outdoor 270° Awning:
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Tail Gater Tire Table:
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Cast iron propane burner:
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MAXTRAX MKII recovery boards:
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Wavian NATO Jerry Can:
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Viair 300p compressor:
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Thanks for watching! This was back in January and I have since come up with a solution that has worked out well for me:
th-cam.com/video/7wdpHosf09g/w-d-xo.html
Mount them over the dents on the passenger side and then paint the MaxTrax to look like a giant band-aid.
LOL...that's pretty good actually. 🤣
Haha 😂!
That’s awesome
Long fold down bar/table/molly panel with mounts clearing the passenger side camp window? Mount boards anywhere underneath and it all folds up to cover window glass from trail/elements in transport? Large table work surface when camped
You have my vote
Build a false-floor inside the camper.
Either slide them in from outside, or drop them in with a hinged/lifting door-floor.
This is a great idea!
Mount 2 rails horizontally on the kitchen/driver side door with the proper spacing and wherever the mounting bolt placement is appropriate, then attach the Maxtrax mounting bolts to the rails.
Bite the bullet and install full length racks. You know you may want to install a solar panel up there at some point might as well have rails that fit them.
I would suggest you contact Topo Toppers and ask them about retro fitting roof rack/rails. For all the excellent advertising you give them with your channel, they should be able to cut you a deal.
Oh I'm sure they would do it for me, but they are in Ventura CA and I am in Eugene OR. This would require multiple days and $600+ of gasoline, so if I do end up putting rails on the roof, I will take my chances with doing it myself. 🙂 At this point however I've acquired enough workable alternative ideas that I'm 98% sure I won't be mounting anything to the roof. 😄
I think the simplest option would be to weld a mounting attachment to the passenger side of your gas canister rack. If it were me, I'd have the tracks/rails installed on the roof. This would allow you to not only carry the traction boards but also allow for future items, such as a kayak.
I would look at your rear, swing out and move the gas cans forward and mount them behind them vertical And your friend Jason has a brand new plasma table so I would say he could make you a couple of mounts really quick on that table looking forward to what you come up with but if you end up putting a mountain rack on top of your tent, check out a product called bugle tape they used it on Rv s it’s a good way to keep sealant on the roof😊
I think a rack above the cab using existing holes could work fairly easily. I live in Tualatin Oregon if ya want some help. Could fab it up in a day. 👍🏻 @softroadingthewest
I'm definitely going to give this approach more thought. It would be a good solution.
@@softroadingthewest I can help, just let me know.
What about just keeping them in the bed of the truck while you drive (bungee cord so they dont fly around) and put them in the back seat when you camp?
Wow, I am ASTONISHED by the volume of comments and SO MANY great ideas I didn't think of. I was trying to reply to every comment but I'm unable to keep up today, I have some deadlined work to finish and getting ready to head out of town. But here are a few clarifications regarding some of the most frequent suggestions:
MOUNT THEM ON THE HOOD
I completely forgot to cover this in the video, but that actually was one of my first ideas months and months ago. It IS do-able, but when I mocked it up with my Maxtrax on there, I reeeeally did not like how much of my view they blocked. Fine on the highway, but on tricky trails, it really seems like a hindrance to picking lines, so I ruled it out very early on. I may need to revisit this however, it's a solid idea and may ultimately prove preferable to any other solution.
SEA SUCKER SUCTION CUP MOUNTS
I also forgot to mention these in the video...this is definitely a good idea, so much so that I actually came *very very* close to doing this a few months ago. I literally had their traction board kit in my shopping cart, credit card in hand and ready to proceed with checkout, but changed my mind at the last minute. I have a buddy who uses them to carry his traction boards on the hood of his Xterra and he's happy with it, they hold just fine. As noted above, I don't want mine on my hood, but I was thinking about using the Sea Sucker to mount to the camper roof without drilling holes. I could still do that, but they really stick up kind of high, and are vulnerable to theft. Ultimately I felt like if I am going to carry them on the camper roof, I'd rather take my chances with drilling through the roof for a lower-profile and theft-proof installation. Sea Sucker seems like a really good product though.
HAVE TOPO TOPPERS RETROFIT THEIR RAILS
This isn't impossible, but they are in Ventura CA and I am in Eugene OR. This would require multiple days and $600+ of gasoline, so if I do end up putting rails on the roof, I will take my chances with doing it myself. 🙂
MOUNT THEM BETWEEN THE TRUCK ROOF AND THE CABOVER (similar to Alu-Cab's slide-out table storage)
There is not room. The camper cabover is so close to the roof of the truck that I cannot even slide a single Maxtrax into that space, with no hardware at all. This would be an elegant solution, but it is not possible.
ANY SOLUTION THAT INVOLVES THE KITCHEN CARGO DOOR IN ANY WAY
Offsetting the pins, center-mounting, anything at all here will not work. The Maxtrax block access to the door latches & locks, and if I move them upwards to clear the latches, they will run into the awning and prevent the door from opening properly. I wanted so bad to make this work, but it is physically impossible.
ANY SOLUTION THAT INVOLVES THE REAR HATCH/WINDOW
I do not want to block this window. One of the things I love about my build is that I can sit inside on a blustery day and enjoy a panoramic(ish) view. I will drill holes in the roof before giving up that rear window. 😄
Thanks again for watching and commenting. I'll keep trying to catch up with replies but it's probably gonna take me some days at this point. 🙂
Also, for the thousandth time: Here where I grew up, *everyone* pronounces roof the way I pronounce roof. When _you_ say "rooooof" it sounds wrong to me. 😆 Local dialects exist all over this vast country, with significant differences in pronunciation of countless words, and sometimes even completely different words used for the same thing. I don't understand why people fixate on "roof" so much. 😄
@softroadingthewest Same, but I grew up in Roseburg. And we always said "crick" rarely "creek" (unless reading a sign out loud). :) My rule of thumb on that is go with what the locals use, no matter how much it twists my tongue up. 🔀
@@garyjennyfrost9485yep Roseburg here as well, we say crick.
I wouldn’t touch the roof of the camper. I’d mount them on dented side of bed or on back rack by Jerry cans
See my comment about mounting to the front of the camper roof using the sides of the hinge bracket above the pivot to anchor a small rack. You could use a sea sucker at the back of the rack but unless you reverse at massive speed I don’t think it would be necessary. Just have threaded feet with rubber stops resting on the camper roof
Check out how alucab does the stow away table. You can put them between the roof and the bottom of your camper over hang
Unfortunately, that space is too tight, I can't even slide a single Maxtrax into that space, let alone any hardware to hold it. It's a verrrry low-profile camper. 😏
@@softroadingthewest Can you make a bracket under the spare tire tray, and mount it on the bottom of the truck? I think the spare tire is higher then the diff, so you should have clearance.
Have you contacted Topo to see if they can do a rail install? Or just send you the components to DIY? Seems like a fairly simple upgrade if you have the necessary rails/fasteners. I put racks on my GFC and have been so happy that I did. Have used them now on half a dozen trips carrying surfboards/Kayaks. Roof racks will mean you need some type of collapsible ladder.
another set of awning mounts for passenger side, will need material to span the two mounts as the awning points are wider than the boards. Mount them just above the window as if it was an awning.
Donald, why not chop down the factory roof rack into a 1/3 rack, connect them together so they’re a single unit and reinstall in the original mounting points?
Maybe consider a zip up vinyl bag to put the Max-Trax in and store them in the back. At the end of your trip you could simply hose the bag out.
This is what we do with ours. MaxTrax sells heavy duty bags for their Trax and this is how we store ours which we store in our back seat area of our truck. Works great!
We were very leery about putting holes into the top (or anywhere for that matter) of our camper for rails and such because we’ve read statements from people about how over time they leak and before you know it you’ve got mold growing inside. No thank you!
YES! SeaSucker Traction Board Mount passenger side bed or roof. No Drilling! Plus a cable lock.
We have GFC on a Ford Ranger. We had been waiting for the Expedition Essentials Extream MaxTrax Mounts. Got tired of waiting. In the meantime, we had been running 4 in our Thule Canyon Basket with the extension on the roof. Yes, getting to them when you need them not the first thing you're going to grab.
Inspired by the DirtBox wedge camper. I reversed engineered the side mouth with cargo / L tracks, with the boomerang mount and MaxTrax pins. To the drivers side wing. Since our 270 FSR awning is passenger side.
My vote would be to keep them OFF THE ROOF!
I was ready to suggest the truck roof, but no way. I wish we had a sunroof! We run Thule Roof Rack with a custom aluminum air spoiler and 2 Milwaukee PackOuts . Sadly, Ford doesn't have any factory roof mounts.
Our rig set up can be seen on any of out social platforms.
Mark (& Teresa)
Hampstead Maryland
• Purpose Built Adventure Rig © •
Ford Ranger FX4 - GFC Camper V2 #1919
• Kia Soulverlander •
Hey Donald, first off I want to say I really enjoy your videos. I live here in western Oregon too and know the challenges of the weather. I’m just an old retired county boy and camp in my simple A.R.E topper but still at nearly 77 years old get out as much as possible. Now, for what it’s worth, remember how brushy and narrow our logging spurs are. I really don’t think anything mounted to the sides of your rig is a good idea. They’re gonna snag everything 😖. I can’t get a good look your cargo box on your swing out but possibly you could mount your traction boards to the box lid? If not, I think I would go with the roof rails and mount the boards as close to the back so you could climb the cargo carrier to reach them. Anyway, just a thought. Keep truckin’ buddy 🤗
The box lid won't work, but another commenter has got me thinking about simply replacing the box with a different size/configuration that would accommodate the maxtrax and still leave the box usable, so this idea is not ruled out. You're definitely right about side-mounted gear here in the PNW.
A lot of great comments on here Donald, If it were me I would do a new clean sheet design on the rear rack you built. I'm sure there are some changes you would to incorporate after some use. And just make sure on the new design you make it where you can get to your max tracks easily.
Take it back to topo and them retrofit the rails.
I would, except they're in Ventura CA and I'm in Eugene, Oregon. Multiple days of driving and $600+ of gasoline...I'll take my chances doing it myself. 😏
Solution?: Owl Vans in AZ has magnetic max track mounts that are strong enough to hold the max tracks to the side of the Sprinter van. Maybe they will work on your cargo door, but at least they would work on the roof without making a hole (I think). I just retired over here in Bend and am on Jason's van camping site, and now I'm researching to make my 2010 Sprinter into an overlander. . . if I'm not too scared to go without four wheel drive! Hope that works for you, Sandra
The camper is entirely aluminum, magnets won't stick. 🙂 Good luck with your build!
Like the unistrut idea, just 1 horizontaly, between the bottom of the window and the top of the truckbed. Mount the traxx to a hinge that woulf fold down at 90° (instead of hinging up). The traxx folded down would also double as a handy little table that's not too wide to stand at while using your side window.
Something like this is definitely in the running...thanks!
Just build a mount that is held on with VHB tape and then mount the boards to the mount. VHB tape is strong enough to hold big solar panels onto a roof so it should hold those boards easily. This would be a super cheap and quick install. If you are unfamiliar with VHB tape do some research.... it will solve all your problems with this issue and I know it sounds crazy having a mount held on with just tape but it is more than strong enough and no holes in the roof.
Good to know, I was not familiar with VHB!
@@softroadingthewest i have read through everyones suggestions and i still say VHB tape. you owe it to yourself to watch some videos about it and go buy some 3m VHB tape and do your own tests. its just as strong as you drilling holes and bolting it on.
Hi Donald so just a thought it looks like the Max track would fit in a snowboard bag so at least it would keep the mud and slime contained and most bags are pretty durable.. again just a thought .. good luck on this endeavor 😎
My .02 is to mount them on the passenger side of the bed splitting the mounts between the topper below the window and on the bed above the fender flare bump out. As a fellow Oregonian I know exactly how you feel about drilling holes in the top. I would still do that project but wait until summer to mount the track. That way it’s warm and dry to get optimal curing of butyl tape and silicone around all of your holes.
Another vote for the hood. Mount one flat on each side wouldn't block the view. Be easy to remove if needed.
Chop the rails off the old roof rack, so you can still use the mounting sections. Then just build your mounting system off of them.
Beat me to it 😅
Yes, and add a wind deflector in front of the tracks. The wind would flow over the camper too. Slim Potatohead used an old snowboard as a deflector
I agree with you on the need for traction boards to be easily accessible. Having them on the roof of the camper is going to be a pain for access. I don't like things hanging off the side of the vehicle either. I just feel it is a place for something to catch and tear things off going through brush.
I think you are on track with making them work on the back carrier. Might think of doing L brackets that come up behind your tool box high enough to clear the lid when open. Then mount them flat, horizontally, or make the brackets just straight up behind the tool box and mount them on end horizontally. You could mount them just high enough so you can get the lid of the tool box open all the way, or mount them a bit lower and deal with the lid of the tool box not opening quite all the way with the traction boards in place. Not sure how much room you got behind the tool box, but you could offset the brackets closer to the tailgate to allow some extra room for this.
Also, you could look at seeing if you could attach some unistrut to the bottom side of the cab overhang and extended it far enough forward to put the traction boards in front of the cab over, above the sunroof. I think it would look pretty good and would still allow easy access to the boards and use of the sun roof. Attaching the unistrut to the floor of the cap over you wouldn't have to worry about water getting in.
Hope that makes sense. You know how to contact me if you need some clearing up on any of this. George.
I agree with your assessment of the camper roof...I've now about 99% ruled that out. I'm now leaning towards something over the roof of the truck like you mentioned. Thanks George!
Sell the Max Tracks. There are other tread-like tracks that fold onto themselves. They work great and pack down.
First thought: adding a roof rack does give multiple options, as you say.
Second thought: modify the rear rack. Move the jerry cans backward a few inches to make a pocket (of sorts) for the maxtrax. It would involve some fancy welding, but seems like a simple and easily accessible option. And the cool factor would be great!
use the front mounting points of old roof rack. Cut the old rack and weld in a cross member or two...... or just cut off the bars and weld something low profile to the feet so you can still use the old mounting points
Cut and adjust the factory Nissan roof rack so that only the front bolts are used and build a platform off of that.
Ideal.
Rivnut. Caulk. Flashing tape if you're scared.
Put anywhere. Hood. Underneath the shell on the roof. Side of the bed. Factory spare tire location.
Haha, I was already planning to consult with you if I drill in some rivnuts. I've never used them and you're the rivnut king in my mind. 😄
Unfortunately my factory spare tire location is filled with guns and outdated video game consoles.
Turn the Maxtrax into a fairing across the roof in front of the camper using the factory roof rail holes, somehow. Make it even cooler by adding off-road lights in front of the Maxtrax. 👍🤠👍 I know you can do it!
Just cut new holes in the maxtrax where you need them.
Why can’t Topo Toppers install the racks now?
If it was me, I'd fabricate a rack to go on the (front) roof of your cab (using preexisting holes) using the pins you have to secure the boards. The rack would be sloped so that it would act as a fairing that would direct wind just over the top of you pop-up camper. What you gain is access (standing in the open doors of the truck and maybe a bit of improved fuel efficiency. What you lose is at least some use of your sunroof.
Donald look into the Sea Suckers I use them on my Are canopy they work very well . and you can remove them when your not on a journey no drill needed .
I forgot to mention these in the video...this is definitely a good idea, so much so that I actually came *very very* close to doing this a few months ago. I literally had their traction board kit in my shopping cart, credit card in hand and ready to proceed with checkout, but changed my mind at the last minute. I have a buddy who uses them to carry his traction boards on the hood of his Xterra and he's happy with it, they hold just fine. As noted above, I don't want mine on my hood, but I was thinking about using the Sea Sucker to mount to the camper roof without drilling holes. I could still do that, but they really stick up kind of high, and are vulnerable to theft. Ultimately I felt like if I am going to carry them on the camper roof, I'd rather take my chances with drilling through the roof for a lower-profile and theft-proof installation. Sea Sucker seems like a really good product though.
In the short term I would probably just bag them and put them in the backseat. Long term I would get topo topper to add the roof rails
This
@@michaelpellegrino3220 WINNER!
Yep, I have not ruled this out. They're awkwardly in the way of other things I also transport there on big trips, but this is a simple solution for sure.
I added Thule Roof Rails to my Leer canopy. Mine was paint matched and hard to drill the first hole, but it was super easy and functional. Never regretted it, nor did it leak. I like a solid strip of rubber with screw holes cut out and sealant on the bolts. Option 2, lose the MaxTracks. Matt says..."If you needed them to get unstuck, you really weren't stuck." ....;)
I think you are on the right track with the ASPW table idea. Mount tracks on the passenger side of your bed. Add spacers under the tracks to allow the table/tracks to clear the fender.
Mount them on the box you have on your rear bumper. Just add something to raise them and clear the gas tank.
That would make the box impossible to open unless the swing arm was swung out. But I carry recovery gear and my chainsaw in this box and could conceivably find myself in a situations where I need the gear in the box but cannot swing the bumper arm out due to how/where I'm stuck. Also, the way my propane bottle works, I lift it upwards off the swing arm and carry it to my kitchen area, so even if the boards were a little higher, they still would impede that use.
BUT...you _have_ given me an idea I hadn't previously considered: the toolbox itself could theoretically be replaced with a different box of a different size/configuration that may better accommodate mounting the Maxtrax somehow while remaining accessible. That actually may not be any more expensive or difficult than any other solution I'm looking at...thank you!
Use the hood? Kinda like how you see the Jeep guys putting a hi-lift on their hoods.
I completely forgot to cover this in the video, but that actually was one of my first ideas months and months ago. It IS do-able, and I have a buddy who has done just that, but when I mocked it up with my Maxtrax on there, I reeeeally did not like how much of my view they blocked. Fine on the highway, but on tricky trails, it really seems like a hindrance to picking lines, so I ruled it out very early on. Thanks for brainstorming, much appreciated!
is there a way to mount another set of awning mounts to the non-driver side of the camper, above the window? Maybe with some retrofitting you could have the maxtrax mounted horizontally above the window.
Mount them over your right rear body damage area....like you were thinking about
I read your update about not blocking the back window while sitting inside. Maybe mount them over the window with the flip down table hinges, but make them pivot upwards. You could still see out when they're up, and they'd lay relatively flat to the topper while driving. Other than that I would go on the right side, above the side window, below the top profile of the topper. It would need brackets made, and would be an inconvenience while latching/unlatching the popup. We can't pretend that a rear swingout isn't an inconvenience every time you need in the back lol.
I like your idea to cover the dent in the passenger side truck bed. It would diminish clearance on your blind side, that you obviously utilize on the trail, but, during the process you might find an ingenious way to deal with future bed dents, or discover that trax make a decent side brush guard. It seems like X marks the spot.
Right side of truckbox. Just template the curves & start fabbing. Best spot except tight trails.
For any top or side mod to accommodate the trax, there's a negative cost in both gas mileage and resale value of vehicle and topper. If you still don't want to tackle the rear mount fabrication "head-on", just make or buy a canvas storage bag with duffle type handles to stow them in the truck when it's unoccupied. Same for solar panels -- get foldable or rollable ones. You may find that adapting your own routines is not as far from ideal as you imagine! Either way, you'll have a better picture of the actual need . . .
have to talked to the manufacturer to see if a post install would be avaibble or ideas on how to do te roof?
This isn't impossible, but they are in Ventura CA and I am in Eugene OR. This would require multiple days and $600+ of gasoline, so if I do end up putting rails on the roof, I will take my chances with doing it myself. 🙂
Well, Matt over at Matts off Road Recovery says if you get recovered by Max Trax...you weren't really stuck. 😁
Attach rails on the bottom side of the overhang sticking out forward of the topper. Then build your mounts onto that. Basically creating a roof rack that is not connected to the truck. Downsides could be strength of the rack and potential stresses. I think you could reinforce it from inside under the mattress but unsure how that might impact the sleeping area.
My humble suggestion:
2 L shaped brackets, between bed and topper, on passenger side.
Build stand off panel that secures to them, and fender of truck.
Mount tracks to that panel.
Ensure tracks come up to JUST UNDER the still functional window.
Still have access to tire.
I hope this helps.
Have you contacted the manufacturer to see if they could do it after the fact?
I'm sure they could, but they're in Ventura and I'm in Eugene, Oregon. Multiple days of driving and $600+ of gasoline...I'll take my chances doing it myself. 😏
Get a loose sort of cordura bag, stuff the 2x Max tracks in, and toss it inside the shell.
Not sure what you decided, but have you looked into the sea sucker suction mounts? They’ve developed a whole line of over landing mounts.
Passenger rear fender. As you said, it already has some "trail experience". Drill 4 holes. Insert some RivNuts and then build a simple rack/rail system to bolt into the RivNuts (probably need to use some spacers on the upper bolts to account for the curve of the fender so that the upper and lower rack/rails are even). Then mount the MaxTrax mounts onto the new rack
ail system.
If you're really wanting rails on the roof if find a rail system and glue it on with sikaflex 252 or 3M 5200. You're probably like most and don't trust glue. Some glues are stronger than welds. I come from a collision repair background and rear quarter panels on cars are usually glued on when replaced because there's no heat from welding to warp the metal. The rear quarter panel is a structural member of the unibody frame system of modem cars.
Also the big boxes of expedition vehicles are glued together with these glues and hold with all the flexing and vibration going on offroad.
Or just buy a waterproof bag to hold them in and put them on the rear floor. That's probably what I would do. Cheap, easy and nonpermanent.
I have to admit, I wouldn't have thought of adhesive. The roof of my camper is topped with white vinyl wrap to reflect sunlight...I assume that would need to be removed where anything would be glued down, for a direct bond to the metal? Seems like the vinyl adhesive would be a weak link otherwise?
Though yeah just putting them in a bag is nice and simple. 😄
@@softroadingthewest yes, straight to metal.
You could put your track up there and secure it enough to run a razor down the sides, cutting the vinyl off only where the track will be. Scuffing then cleaning the metal will add extra bite.
I'd bag them unless you wand the rack for other reasons.
Check out those magnetic MaxTrax mounts sold by Owl Vans and put them on the roof of the cab.
Go back to manufacturer of topper and have them retrofit.
I could, except they're in Ventura CA and I'm in Eugene, Oregon. Multiple days of driving and $600+ of gasoline...I'll take my chances doing it myself. 😏
Good Video... How about installing another set of "Awning Brackets" on the "Port" side of the camper and installing them to allow the proper spacing for the MaxxTraxx bolts. They can be above your window and have a clean looking appearance. ... Just a thought.
I was thinking the same thing.
Does your awning have C channels where you could add a bracket on the backside of the awning. Or, maybe rig up something between the front and rear brackets that attach to the side of the Topo Topper.
I personally would not drill through the top of your topper - cough that one up to a bad choice and live with it and learn from it for your next build.
Another option might be to reduce one Jerry Can size to a slimmer one like the Rotopax thus making just enough room to fit the MaxTrax.
Rather than drilling the camper roof, drill a couple of holes for the maxtrax pins through the camper rail on the passenger side (same vertical surface as your awning brackets are attached to). You could stow the maxtrax above the window, which looks like it's hinged at the top so you don't lose any view or functionality. And if the mount points don't align with interior structure, drill the maxtrax to replicate the mounting holes where needed.
That's not bad. I need to take a closer look to see if I could make that work...seems possible! Thanks!
@@softroadingthewest Hope it works! On another note, I'm about to place an order with Kai for one of his FR 270s based on your review. Taking delivery of a Hiatus pop top in March, and the Reign will be a first for them. Thanks for your channel, and sharing your knowledge. Very much appreciated.
I think you keep looking at the bumper, maybe weld a molle panel on the passenger side of the jerry can holder, or the rear of it.
Yes. I had really been leaning away from this solution, but in the process of making and editing this video, that started looking not as bad of a solution as I had been fearing. I wouldn't have thought of molle panel, that's a good idea.
IMO the passenger side of the bed is he best place for the maxtrax. The panel is already damaged so drilling those holes won't matter. Then put a big flexible solar panel directly on the roof. Good luck with your decision.
I think your original idea on the side would be the most convienent for use, but clearly not feasible now. My vote is to put them on the roof with a proper mounting system. Just bite the bullet.
Use Sea sucker suction cups for the roof . No need drilling holes they are great and can be used other places if you change your mind .
Perfect timing on this video. I’m figuring out where to mount traction boards as well. I’m leaning towards the roof of the RTT, but I’m also thinking about mounting solar panels up there since it’s such a large flat surface. What about under? My Passport has a lot of space under the unibody, and there’s a height of 4” or more before lining up with the drive shaft.
Edit: when I got stuck last year in an endless clay pit, my traction boards would have been totally cut off from access, so…. I really am leaning more towards drilling into the roof.
Exactly, when I have needed mine, I was buried to the frame in wet heavy snow...they'd have been completely inaccessible. I look forward to seeing your solution.
Back canopy door, it'll block your window, but if you design it with a hinge point, you should be able to lift it up, (and secure it) and see out the window when you're out camping. Or down, because you do have the awning...
Is the roof steel? Could some really heavy duty magnets hold the pins to hold the orange things? That way no holes need be drilled.
Another idea is to build brackets to raise the awning, then build a rail mounting system that bolts to the cargo door appropriately then extends the mounting position outwards to mount the trax.
A proprietary rack elsewhere is just that. If it works, good.
A roof rack gives you flexibility. My current Yakima will hold a boat on one side. I built a homemade basket on the other side which can carry my screen tent, folding chair, pop-up shower tent, fishing rod tubes, paddles, a small shovel and broom, stacked on top of two traction boards, at the same time. Keeps the veh cleaner inside. You have to play with that load to get it right, but it works. 90% of that load is off the vehicle (4 Runner TRD) at camp, but I’m usually camped in one spot for a few days at a time.
I was tentative about drilling the holes, but it was actually easy and the gaskets worked. That Jeep is gone, I had to show the new owner how to use the rack mounts, she was very pleased with it.
You can take the rack off the landing pads and you just have the bases which stick up exactly two inches above the roofline. I tried a lot of stuff over the last 30 yrs and these have been the most enduring.
I would probably make a frame out of 80/20 to go in the cab roof spot. The curve can be dealt with using spacers or possibly rubber bushings.
Do yourself a huge favor - DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR ROOF..! You'll thank yourself in the future. Having lived in the PNW for 20 years, I learned that water will find a way in. Not a question of if, but when.
I would go with something on the roof. Don't create an eyesore along the sides or back of your good looking vehicle. I'd mount them on the roof towards the front of the truck so not to create too much weight on the end of the camper that lifts up.
If somebody else has already mentioned this, I apologize. I've only read thru a few of the comments. Your awning has a couple of nice stand-off's that it attaches to. What about either getting a couple more of those mounts or fabricating similar and then add a mounting plate to them, and the boards to it? That would give you the clearance above your window and to the topper releases.
Edit: the reason I suggested the awning standoffs are twofold: 1. they are already built, 2: they are more stable in the window while driving 50-80+ MPH down the highway/freeway, etc. - especially seeing how they are going to catch the wind die to their profile.
Beat me to it ... I was thinking the same thing. Install a set of awning mount brackets to the opposite side above the window.
I was also going to suggest that !
I hadn't thought of that, but several people have made this suggestion. Definitely going to take a closer look at this to see if it could work. Thanks!
Glad we all could help. It's like you said, sometimes you need other perspectives and ideas. We will be curious to see what you end up doing. @@softroadingthewest
Hi Donald, great little video as always. If it were me I would look at th original roof bars to see if they could be cut down and modified into a mini version. The front mounting points on the roof could be utilised with the original frame and then fabricate a rear support on the roof in front of the camper. Maybe even shortening the fram and re-using the rear mounts. This should give enough height to continue using the Sunroof.
I'm looking forward to seeing your solution.
Yes, this isn't a bad idea at all and I'm definitely considering something along these lines. Thanks!
How about behind the awning just above using the awning brackets
Take peyote and go on vision quest
Use your old factory roof rack. Just cut the original rack where it would come into contact with your tent. Make a bracket that screws in under your roof tent base. It’ll look custom
Or use original roof rails as a template to make your own rails that’ll fit under the tight space and utilize original rail mounting locations
Something along these lines is definitely in the running! Thanks!
Can you mount another set of those factory awning mounts on the other side above the window. Build something coming off those? Just an idea, dunno if it’s possible.
I'd either have Topo Topper put on rails or mount them on the passenger side of the bed. There appear to be some mounting options in the space under the window or into the railing of the truck bed. Heck, they would even hide some of your customized mountain metal-work ;)
What about creating an offset mount for the pins on the storage door? It's basically a "J" plate that would allow you to mount the short length of the "J" plate to the storage door away from the latch and the hinge bolts. The curved part (or squared) of the "J" bracket would be long enough to clear the storage door latch. The long length of the "J" would be long enough to have holes to attach the holder pins and align with the mounting holes on the boards. Not sure how much it would cost to have these fabricated, but I would think it's pretty cheap since it's just simple bent metal.
I'm guessing having TOPO install the rails isn't possible?
It's not impossible, except they're in Ventura CA and I'm in Eugene, Oregon. Multiple days of driving and $600+ of gasoline...I'll take my chances doing it myself. 😏
@@softroadingthewest Makes perfect sense to me! I'd do the same. I avoid CA. like the plague, and I grew up there.
You may be able to use the bed rail caps to attach a simple L bracket from the top of the bed rail down the sides of the truck bed and mount your max tracks to that I’m not sure what holes are available on your bed rails, and how that would affect the canopy, but I have seen it done before. Or you could use some type of T-slot channel or Yuna strut attached to the canopy sides on either side of the arctic tern window that would drop the mounting for your max tracks down to the bedside.
Good ideas...thank you!
Have a canvas bag made to fit them and toss them in the back of the topper when you aren't in there
Contact the manufacturer and ask for their installation plan ... maybe they will actually do the work but at a minimum get their info so it is a appropriate install.
I also have a topo topper, but we travel with 2 ppl and 2 dogs. In order to save space in the truck bed we got a martin off road camper rack that is only the front part of the roof, and got the rack installed by topo toppers. Although we haven't used the topper rack yet I did get it as a just in case option. Sorry to hear you're regretting getting that installed.
I would go back to Topo Topper and have them do it because they would have to warranty their work and they would be installing their system.
I’d say cut down and modify your old factory roof rack and mount on top. You got used to not using the sky light before so you can again. Other than that I’d put two rails on top of the camper and fabricate something there.
Yeah, I may take a closer look at modifying the old roof rack actually. Thanks!
Donald, If you decide to install the rails (L-Track or the like) I sent you some pics a while back through Patreon showing how I had mounted the maxtrax brackets on my Summit. I believe you thought it might interfere with getting to the latches for the pop up but if you can get to them on the awning side I don't think you'd have an issue, esp. given the distance between the latches. I can send you more pics if you're interested in revisiting the idea.
Also: if you don't want to DIY there is Oregon AT in Bend who might be able to help with mounting the rails (not that I doubt your ability to do the job).
I have just added the roof L-tracks to my order because of your video.
Nice. Better to have them and not need them than the opposite! :-)
this might be crazy but is there space between the roof and the topper over hang? maybe enough where you can shove the max tracks between some heavy duty foam? if you get the right foam it should be able to hold the tracks and not scratch your paint or you can lay some clear vinal to protect as well
It's not crazy, I looked at that long ago, and several others here have suggested it, but unfortunately that space is too tight...I can't even slide a single Maxtrax into that space, let alone any hardware to hold it. It's a verrrry low-profile camper. 😏
@@softroadingthewest ah ya makes sense that's to bad :(
@1:16 ... That is some wholesome goodness right there.
assuming your canopy mounts similar to mine it has t-chanels in it. you can use those slots to mount a vertical piece of metal to get the trax over the awning and then weld another strip to the top to essentially make a "T" shape. probably wouldn't be an actual T shape as your tent still needs to pop up but you can fiddle with the design. then make 2 of those, one for the front 2 pegs and one for the back.
Here's an idea. How about you mount them on the top of the Topo Topper?😆😆
Seriously though, I would consider mounting them on the top of the topotopper crossways on the end nearest the tailgate. That way they're accessible by just standing on the bumper. You could just mount the max track bolts or you could put in a few pieces of short railing, but I'm not sure that I would mount full rails across the top considering installations later. You would have to beef up the hydraulic supports in order to support any additional weight.
I personally have abandoned solar panels mounted to my vehicle in favor of portable ones as they don't get much use anyway and have built-in charge controllers. I have other means of charging power stations that require far less time. Good luck! Whatever you decide I'll be watching you to see👁️
I would custom make cross bars for the back roof area. That way you can removed if needed. No holes on top
Mount on driver side canopy door. Fabricate a bracket that extends beyond door and allows access to door latches
What about suction cups on top of the tent? There is s company that does suction cups for those type of applications. I have seen them on videos of overland expos… seasuckers i think
I forgot to mention these in the video...this is definitely a good idea, so much so that I actually came very very close to doing this a few months ago. I literally had their traction board kit in my shopping cart, credit card in hand and ready to proceed with checkout, but changed my mind at the last minute.They really stick up kind of high, and are vulnerable to theft. Ultimately I felt like if I am going to carry them on the camper roof, I'd rather take my chances with drilling through the roof for a lower-profile and theft-proof installation. Sea Sucker seems like a really good product though...I wanted to make that work!
Rails on the roof plus opens up more options for more things to add like a bike or kayak
Mount brackets on the side of the top part of the canopy then use 1x1 tubing between the bracket