I love watching your videos! They are such fun, and always give me a smile. And thanks so much for putting me at the end there and letting me help out with this!
Go look at PMF suspension. They make a transfer case cross member that allows you to clock the transfer case. I have it on my 2003 f350. Works great! It would be exactly what you need!
yeah, I have been talking with a few different places. My build would be rather easy if I was not wanting it lower than normal and also streetable. Its ok. in the long run it will work out.
Have an idea about you front driveline. if you used an SCS drop box laid on its side to basically re-align your transfer case to a center chassis path. If you are willing to remove the factory transfer case, then SCS can probably set you up with something that will work as well. Pricey but well built.
I'm currently looking at a clocking index ring that will let me turn the t case 25 degrease. I'm going to ask a few people what they did with their drive line set up.
Not a bad idea if you can keep it boiling itself. I've never seen the inside of one but I can only imagine there's some kind of oil pump in it or Slinger
Marmon herrington transfer case and front axles kits can always be put on your wildland fire type 3 rear wheel drive truck and rockwell front and rear axles can always be used as well and in the 1970s ford never made there own 4WD trucks Marmon herrington step in and it can always come in handy for making them and ordering them in for customers
That would be pretty rad. I was talking with a few friends about this yesterday and what all it would take. one of the big things will be swapping out the rear end or never putting it in high range when in 4wd.
Its like the movie pearl harbor working on the when there working on the b25 Mitchell bombers and scene remove the extra pipes of the engine housing and the other parts as well to make them lighter for aircraft carrier laughing them
I can't wait to see it finished 🥰🤠🥰🧸🦣🐻☺️💞 but I would definitely go duels front and back and steering front and back then you could always take the outers off and throw them in the back for the trip home or to the grocery store 🏪!!! I wish you all the best luck in the entire world 🌏🌍🌎 and hope you don't run into many countless and numerous problems just remember don't those axle wheel and tire combinations weigh a blank load more than the F 250 stock setups????
driveshafts of tulsa 540 dollars shipped to your door in 3 days~ one piece double cardon joint driveshaft whole assembly's completely balanced as a unit. eliminates all driveline vibration.
You don't even need a clocking ring for the transfer case if you clock at a straight 90° all the bolt holes line up and as far as fluid just add an extra quart and you're good to go. I ended up buying axletechs for my setup And I'm still keeping leafs. If those axles are 90 inches wide run the sand style wheels and you'll clear your leafs just fine. Also as far as the rear just run a one-piece driveshaft with a double carden joint at the transfer case. It completely solved all my vibrations on my crew cab short bed. Also be careful with those calipers even though they are bigger it might require you to get a bigger master cylinder to power them.
🔥🤘😎🤘🔥 Anxious to see the building process and how it turns out 💪 love my 6.0 and need to make even more bad ass like this !!! Good luck with your build ⚒️🇺🇸
I just got a set of axletech 5000 steering axles. 8.24 ratio. Thinking of putting them in a square body chevy. Fourlink and hydro steer front and rear. I’ve been watching you and matt.
Have you heard that the paint is toxic? I heard that steel shot blasting is required before grinding or welding on the axles. I just saw your short about picking up the axles. I got mine at doyle also. About a month ago. Im from chico.
@@idriveabigtruck2 Right on man. Yeah, my friend that was an Army Mechanic told me about the paint. it's definitely something to keep in mind when going at it.
you could make effectivly a drop "box" like most monster trucks and stuff have. but instead of mounting it to the back of the transmission. it would be a smaller one with 3 solid cut gears in it and a spline shaft ran thru the yoke of the Mrap axel. putting the yoke back in the factory position and if you want to spline the input side with the factory yoke and you can use that. that would be the cheapest way to overcome that challenge i think.
@@PaperBeatsRock i was thinking the more i think about it. Probably not as good as 4 link you could do a 3 link like the factory front end of the 05 and newer superdutys front and rear, basically only needs 3 places welded up on the frame per axel. less interference.
may I make a suggestion based on personal experience . get the frame rails from a truck like your IH fire truck , build a copy using the dimensions from the top of the pick up rails . They are so much stronger and stiffer that that extremely light duty pick up . Take measurements of everything that is connected to the frame ., Motor mounts , body mounts , I mean every single tab . Take those measurements to someone that does auto cad . That frame is not strong enough for hydraulic steering and those axles and tires . Coil springs from a one ton ford van oh say vintage 79 will give you the lift you want . This accomplishes 2 things ,"it won't end up hacked up and butchered , number 2 you can drive your truck up until the end of the build . A lot of these neat projects end up in to the junk pile because of lack of planning . My truck was a Chevy with a 427 truck engine transmission ,transfer case , axles came from a 2 1/2 ton 6x6 and the frame from a cement truck . I was all the way done . all that was left was the wiring harness when it was stolen . Start from scratch and use auto cad way easier . With the IH fire truck you have all the major parts , So time for a plan
yeah was just looking at a clocking index ring. I can turn it down 25 degrease and that looks like it may be enough. but I will have to look at a gear-driven one as well.
Greetings from Russia!)) How much do these bridges weigh? I have a ram 2500 6,7, 2017, I immediately put bridges from a uniform without hesitation, the weight of the front axle is 350 kg, the rear is about 300, a suspension on 4 longitudinal rods and a spring suspension in a circle, the wings are clipped and I made arch extensions with a 3d scanner so that dirt does not fly, my tractor tires are Michelin 46 inches, Mickey Thompson Baja claw 54 inches and Russian-made low pressure 56 inches milking the ride through swampy terrain and deep snow! The clearance under the bridge gearbox is approximately 57-60 cm.
I'm not familiar with the architecture of the frame of the Super Duty in front but I would recommend pushing your front axle forward to gain a little bit of clearance near the cab. But with the frame being so wide on those I would think lifting it a few more inches would be helpful
@@joshuaatkins5197 Thats so true man. There is several nights I have been thinking over it and it would be so much easier if I just did a custom one off frame and not force myself into using the current frame that is in the truck.
@@PaperBeatsRock I just read this comment after I wrote a book comment . You need to start from scratch for more reasons than I can count . One of which is auto cad . Having someone put your measurements in cad drawings is insurance you will be able to finish your project . and not end up with a junk hack job
MRAP axles VS 2.5 Ton Rockwells? There are reasons that most people don't use Rockwells I just don't know what they are except the weight of Rockwells and possibly less ground clearance unless they are modified.
What about a SCS drop case to center the front pinion and ease up front and rear u joint angle? It would fix two problems in one. Also, I would keep the leaves for now, and just lockout the rear steering. You don’t want to get overloaded/overwhelmed with work. Having the truck on leaves would be easier and let you keep the current steering while you iron out a plan for the 4 link and stack money for links and rod ends.
If the 10 lug military wheels have more backspacing, it should steer easier. The offset superduty wheels that are on it have a ton of scrub. Machining a longer crossover steer arm for the new axles could give the drag link some more leverage to steer easier.
This is still one of my all time favorite builds it’s got the 6.0 that everybody loves to hate the small lift and huge tires but idk after this stage your on idk if we can really call it the stupid duty no more lol two concerns I have for you would be one I’m not sure how much farther the stock t case is gonna take you and the frame really should get some kinda brace or plates to try to remove any unwanted flex but hammer down brother I look forward to the next video
Thanks bud, Yeah frame is high on my list. I am somewhat limited on the T case though. There is really no direct bolt on upgrades that I know of and anything that is after market is 7months+ turn around time. We could do a divorce set up and it may end up coming to that if the stock t case will not hold up. but for now Its just a text for endurance.
I'm pretty sure that a fully hydraulic steering system is neither legal or safe on the street. I think you still need a mechanical connection between steering wheel and knuckles 🤷♂️
I'm currently running 53x16x20 XZL Michelin tires on 20x14 fuel maverick wheels. The tires are government surplus and the only way I was able to start this build was because the cost of them was very low.
its something that may work for the front. I will have to look at it more but a large problem with most of them is the steering pumps are gear driven that run off the timing and are not belt driven like light duty trucks. The pump I currently have on the stupid duty has been adjusted so its pushing out higher pressure to push the hydro assist but it wouldn't be enough to push the steering gear box of a large truck.
Not to be a dumbass, and it definitely has a cool factor, but other than the ABS with a tone ring already present, how is this a better option than running some rockwells, which would give you better driveline angles and can be retroed with discs, probably for way cheaper?
Here I am about to be homeless because the gas prices in my rural area are so high. But yeah… I can make it work. I can build a stoopit duty. No… no I can’t. 😭 I hate my life.
I know its hard not to fall down this hole of depression man but fight and pull yourself out. That is the why I started this TH-cam channel. To get me out of the house and doing stuff. I was deep in depression and PTSD. I was lethargic and setting in front of my PC all day playing games and watching tv. So off with just doing a little side hustle. Buying stuff for cheap and reselling it but still undercutting the market for fast sale. There is a ton of information at your finger tips all over the youtube and other places. I started with only $50 and grew that. It takes time and drive but its more than possible. its all about the daily short gains though and not constantly looking at the end goal.
I love watching your videos! They are such fun, and always give me a smile. And thanks so much for putting me at the end there and letting me help out with this!
Dude thank you so much. You have crazy mad skills. I can't wait to learn some more from you have some fun.
Go look at PMF suspension. They make a transfer case cross member that allows you to clock the transfer case. I have it on my 2003 f350. Works great! It would be exactly what you need!
I was just looking at their kit. Pretty sure that is what I'm going with. Thank you so much for the heads up.
@@PaperBeatsRock no problem at all. Keep up the awesome build and videos!
Adam….new challenge for ya…once you’re done on this project, add a second rear axle to the Stupid Duty for 6WD 😆
I can't wait til this is done, gonna be an absolute monster!💯🙌
Thank Mike.
Awesome build i love finding Awesome TH-cam channels of fellow oregon rednecks id love my 06 6.0 build to be this awesome one of these days
Good to see some Oregonian checking out the videos. Thanks for checking us out Chase.
Those are some cool axles; The Mertior MX - 23 - 810 Military Axle a whole mouthful right there...that's what she said!
bahahah. Love it bro. They are some big boy axles. I wonder if i ever break them🤔
@@PaperBeatsRock If anyone could...
Since you are basically street driving a modern monster truck, go talk to those truck builders to keep from reinventing the wheel.
yeah, I have been talking with a few different places. My build would be rather easy if I was not wanting it lower than normal and also streetable. Its ok. in the long run it will work out.
To get the dent out in the bed you can use a basketball deflate it and then air it up once you have it inside of the fender well
oh hell yes. I'm going to give that a try. thank you.
Have an idea about you front driveline. if you used an SCS drop box laid on its side to basically re-align your transfer case to a center chassis path. If you are willing to remove the factory transfer case, then SCS can probably set you up with something that will work as well. Pricey but well built.
I'm currently looking at a clocking index ring that will let me turn the t case 25 degrease. I'm going to ask a few people what they did with their drive line set up.
Not a bad idea if you can keep it boiling itself. I've never seen the inside of one but I can only imagine there's some kind of oil pump in it or Slinger
Good to see ya, boss!! Glad things are going well for you!!
Loving the Stupid Duty!!
Right on Brian. Thank you and great seeing you in the comments.
Good stuff. Looking forward to seeing more from the channel!
Hell yeah Devin. Thank you for commenting and checking us out. Got more coming down the line for you.
It would be cool once you get it done if you could take it to Matt's off-road when his new tow truck is done that would be cool seeing them together
Marmon herrington transfer case and front axles kits can always be put on your wildland fire type 3 rear wheel drive truck and rockwell front and rear axles can always be used as well and in the 1970s ford never made there own 4WD trucks Marmon herrington step in and it can always come in handy for making them and ordering them in for customers
That would be pretty rad. I was talking with a few friends about this yesterday and what all it would take. one of the big things will be swapping out the rear end or never putting it in high range when in 4wd.
Its like the movie pearl harbor working on the when there working on the b25 Mitchell bombers and scene remove the extra pipes of the engine housing and the other parts as well to make them lighter for aircraft carrier laughing them
Uuffff 💯
The trucks ive dealt with, had limited slip lockers. Never was a fan of air lockers. Just would be more to deal with when in a bad pinch.
I can't wait to see it finished 🥰🤠🥰🧸🦣🐻☺️💞 but I would definitely go duels front and back and steering front and back then you could always take the outers off and throw them in the back for the trip home or to the grocery store 🏪!!!
I wish you all the best luck in the entire world 🌏🌍🌎 and hope you don't run into many countless and numerous problems just remember don't those axle wheel and tire combinations weigh a blank load more than the F 250 stock setups????
driveshafts of tulsa 540 dollars shipped to your door in 3 days~ one piece double cardon joint driveshaft whole assembly's completely balanced as a unit. eliminates all driveline vibration.
Right on man. Thank you so much for the heads up.
You don't even need a clocking ring for the transfer case if you clock at a straight 90° all the bolt holes line up and as far as fluid just add an extra quart and you're good to go. I ended up buying axletechs for my setup And I'm still keeping leafs. If those axles are 90 inches wide run the sand style wheels and you'll clear your leafs just fine. Also as far as the rear just run a one-piece driveshaft with a double carden joint at the transfer case. It completely solved all my vibrations on my crew cab short bed. Also be careful with those calipers even though they are bigger it might require you to get a bigger master cylinder to power them.
🔥🤘😎🤘🔥 Anxious to see the building process and how it turns out 💪 love my 6.0 and need to make even more bad ass like this !!! Good luck with your build ⚒️🇺🇸
hell yes bud. I'm a huge 6.0 fan boy. regardless on how many people clown on it they are get engines.
Adam, new subscriber here…ya fergot the first rule of Engineering….if it works, it aint stupid. 👍👍👊👊
Really looking forward to your series!
I just got a set of axletech 5000 steering axles. 8.24 ratio. Thinking of putting them in a square body chevy. Fourlink and hydro steer front and rear. I’ve been watching you and matt.
Right on man. The 5000's are big boy axles. I dont think you will ever have to worry about busting them
Have you heard that the paint is toxic? I heard that steel shot blasting is required before grinding or welding on the axles. I just saw your short about picking up the axles. I got mine at doyle also. About a month ago. Im from chico.
@@idriveabigtruck2 Right on man. Yeah, my friend that was an Army Mechanic told me about the paint. it's definitely something to keep in mind when going at it.
you could make effectivly a drop "box" like most monster trucks and stuff have. but instead of mounting it to the back of the transmission. it would be a smaller one with 3 solid cut gears in it and a spline shaft ran thru the yoke of the Mrap axel. putting the yoke back in the factory position and if you want to spline the input side with the factory yoke and you can use that. that would be the cheapest way to overcome that challenge i think.
Oh your talking like a 1:1 block. Hmm that maybe a idea to look at. Ill have to look at size and if it will interfere with the arms of the 4 link.
@@PaperBeatsRock i was thinking the more i think about it. Probably not as good as 4 link you could do a 3 link like the factory front end of the 05 and newer superdutys front and rear, basically only needs 3 places welded up on the frame per axel. less interference.
may I make a suggestion based on personal experience . get the frame rails from a truck like your IH fire truck , build a copy using the dimensions from the top of the pick up rails . They are so much stronger and stiffer that that extremely light duty pick up . Take measurements of everything that is connected to the frame ., Motor mounts , body mounts , I mean every single tab . Take those measurements to someone that does auto cad . That frame is not strong enough for hydraulic steering and those axles and tires . Coil springs from a one ton ford van oh say vintage 79 will give you the lift you want . This accomplishes 2 things ,"it won't end up hacked up and butchered , number 2 you can drive your truck up until the end of the build . A lot of these neat projects end up in to the junk pile because of lack of planning .
My truck was a Chevy with a 427 truck engine transmission ,transfer case , axles came from a 2 1/2 ton 6x6 and the frame from a cement truck . I was all the way done . all that was left was the wiring harness when it was stolen . Start from scratch and use auto cad way easier . With the IH fire truck you have all the major parts , So time for a plan
Just found your TH-cam seen someone post it on facebook and I'm a newbie
Right on man. Thank you for checking it out
Love an update. This thing is BA man
Love the new intro! Keep up the good content!!
You’ll need a different transfer case. Might look at a gear drive setup
yeah was just looking at a clocking index ring. I can turn it down 25 degrease and that looks like it may be enough. but I will have to look at a gear-driven one as well.
This is going to be a crazy build
Going to be fun as hell breaking her in, or just braking her lol
Greetings from Russia!)) How much do these bridges weigh? I have a ram 2500 6,7, 2017, I immediately put bridges from a uniform without hesitation, the weight of the front axle is 350 kg, the rear is about 300, a suspension on 4 longitudinal rods and a spring suspension in a circle, the wings are clipped and I made arch extensions with a 3d scanner so that dirt does not fly, my tractor tires are Michelin 46 inches, Mickey Thompson Baja claw 54 inches and Russian-made low pressure 56 inches milking the ride through swampy terrain and deep snow! The clearance under the bridge gearbox is approximately 57-60 cm.
I need this on my kodiak… How much for a set of those axles?
Just sub, I love seein those axels swap into something pretty sweet
Hell yes bro. Thank you so much for following along.
Late to the party, but the Meritor axles run a standard 10 lug pattern,
It’s the Axletech that runs the 335mm pattern, (which is standard over seas)
I'm not familiar with the architecture of the frame of the Super Duty in front but I would recommend pushing your front axle forward to gain a little bit of clearance near the cab. But with the frame being so wide on those I would think lifting it a few more inches would be helpful
If i did lift it more things would be way easier on me. We may end up having to.
@@PaperBeatsRock love the low lift method though. Ive spent 3x more time keeping my jeeps low as opposed to lifting. Way more work to keep it low.🍻
@@joshuaatkins5197 Thats so true man. There is several nights I have been thinking over it and it would be so much easier if I just did a custom one off frame and not force myself into using the current frame that is in the truck.
@@PaperBeatsRock I just read this comment after I wrote a book comment . You need to start from scratch for more reasons than I can count . One of which is auto cad . Having someone put your measurements in cad drawings is insurance you will be able to finish your project . and not end up with a junk hack job
MRAP axles VS 2.5 Ton Rockwells? There are reasons that most people don't use Rockwells I just don't know what they are except the weight of Rockwells and possibly less ground clearance unless they are modified.
Shoot I'm just trying to get my truck running lol
I'm going the other direction and taking a perfectly good running truck to not. 😂
What about a SCS drop case to center the front pinion and ease up front and rear u joint angle? It would fix two problems in one. Also, I would keep the leaves for now, and just lockout the rear steering. You don’t want to get overloaded/overwhelmed with work. Having the truck on leaves would be easier and let you keep the current steering while you iron out a plan for the 4 link and stack money for links and rod ends.
If the 10 lug military wheels have more backspacing, it should steer easier. The offset superduty wheels that are on it have a ton of scrub. Machining a longer crossover steer arm for the new axles could give the drag link some more leverage to steer easier.
This is still one of my all time favorite builds it’s got
the 6.0 that everybody loves to hate the small lift and huge tires but idk after this stage your on idk if we can really call it the stupid duty no more lol two concerns I have for you would be one I’m not sure how much farther the stock t case is gonna take you and the frame really should get some kinda brace or plates to try to remove any unwanted flex but hammer down brother I look forward to the next video
Thanks bud, Yeah frame is high on my list. I am somewhat limited on the T case though. There is really no direct bolt on upgrades that I know of and anything that is after market is 7months+ turn around time. We could do a divorce set up and it may end up coming to that if the stock t case will not hold up. but for now Its just a text for endurance.
@@PaperBeatsRock Definetly and who knows maybe it hangs in there longer than anyone would think
Couldn’t you use a drop transfer case to eliminate the driveshaft hitting the old pan
Whats is the cost? I'm debating going this way. Thank you! Glad I found the channel!
I'm pretty sure that a fully hydraulic steering system is neither legal or safe on the street. I think you still need a mechanical connection between steering wheel and knuckles 🤷♂️
Gonna be awesome, brother. I'm digging your wheel set up, was wondering what size wheels and tires ya got? Thank you for sharing, man.
I'm currently running 53x16x20 XZL Michelin tires on 20x14 fuel maverick wheels. The tires are government surplus and the only way I was able to start this build was because the cost of them was very low.
@@PaperBeatsRock Gracias, my friend. I'm rolling in my 02 F350 7.3 on 20x10 Rockstars and 40x15.50x20's. Love your setup and awesome content.
What are you doing with the leafs, I might be interested in them
Have you looked at the steering system from the MRAP to see if it ca be used?
its something that may work for the front. I will have to look at it more but a large problem with most of them is the steering pumps are gear driven that run off the timing and are not belt driven like light duty trucks. The pump I currently have on the stupid duty has been adjusted so its pushing out higher pressure to push the hydro assist but it wouldn't be enough to push the steering gear box of a large truck.
What is the measurement from center to center of leaf spring Perch on the axles?
Jason needs to throw some mrap axles under side by side lol
Hell yes he does. Not like he has enough on his plate now lol.
Any updates?
“Stupid duty” why? 1st gen mrap
Where did you find the axles?
How will the steer axle work for rear when you install it backwards
Use 2 make a bouncer with 53s and the cat engine to match 🤣
Dude that would be sick AF. I dont think i have seen any diesel rock bouncers yet.
That’s what I run on this 👆🏼
Is it good for that truck
wow that is going to cost a fortune!
Biggest single cost is going to be the PSC steering front and rear. Ugg not looking forward to that bill.
Do it to a cummins next 😂😂😂
Needs a 4ft lift
More lift would make it easier but I really like to lower look personally.
Not to be a dumbass, and it definitely has a cool factor, but other than the ABS with a tone ring already present, how is this a better option than running some rockwells, which would give you better driveline angles and can be retroed with discs, probably for way cheaper?
hope your not runnin 75 with them rears on it.
Brother you need to make some more movies or videos. Your really natural at this and love the Frankenstein Work your doing !
Here I am about to be homeless because the gas prices in my rural area are so high. But yeah… I can make it work. I can build a stoopit duty. No… no I can’t. 😭 I hate my life.
If gas prices are high get a deesol.
@@beans4gas yeah I wish I could get a more fuel efficient vehicle but that takes money
I know its hard not to fall down this hole of depression man but fight and pull yourself out. That is the why I started this TH-cam channel. To get me out of the house and doing stuff. I was deep in depression and PTSD. I was lethargic and setting in front of my PC all day playing games and watching tv. So off with just doing a little side hustle. Buying stuff for cheap and reselling it but still undercutting the market for fast sale. There is a ton of information at your finger tips all over the youtube and other places. I started with only $50 and grew that. It takes time and drive but its more than possible. its all about the daily short gains though and not constantly looking at the end goal.
@@PaperBeatsRock those a some very kind words brother. It’s tough out there right now. I really appreciate the message tho. Means a lot to me. 🙏
Better beef up your frame for those bad boys
For sure. I already get bad frame twist with just the weight of the tires.
"mer it or"
Yeah I constantly have to remind myself. Thank you. I need to post a sign in the shop lol
Hi Could l get a reply from email😊
Omg I love this
Where are you at on this build now? Or is it back burnered?
Remember $20 is $20 and there is always onlyfans.
I did far worse for far less in the Navy. 😂😂😂
Oh 😳 I almost forgot!!!
And Howdy Howdy from DeadHorse Alaska 🥰🤠🥰🧸🦣🐻☺️💞😏👌🍬🍭🍫!!!!!