Just did this and followed instructions. Took me 5 hours because some screws and hoses were stuck on for life. Had some giving up moments but nonetheless I finished it and no leaks. Thank you for this helpful video and thanks to my confidence to even do this.
Good tip / reminder... thanks for sharing! It's a given when I do this job. Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers.
I just did mine yesterday wow! I could not believe how gunked up my oil housing was I'm glad I decided beforehand to buy a new one the oil seals alone are about 20$ and a new housing cost 15$ extra and you get seals and a filter too boot! oh yeah the alan bolts connecting it to the engine itself are 5mm alans not 10 great vid thanks.
If you remove the sensor bracket by the housing you will not have to disconnect coolant lines. Will allow enough clearance to slide filter housing into position 👍👍, saves alot of time.
Newbie mechanic and aspiring automotive business owner here. Your videos are a godsend for people like me that want to work on VW/Porsche/Audi. I noticed the part# 06F115397J is shared with the transversely mounted VW GTI 2.0T. Is this the exact same part used in the Audi B7 2.0T FSI? Trying to stick with OEM genuine VW/Audi parts for this job for my personal vehicle
I don't know what fits where... it's best to go with the part numbers that are on the parts that you remove... most parts will have part numbers on them. In cases where there are no numbers, get the dealer to send you a parts list / diagram of the components you are working on, then google those numbers to find them online... or buy from the dealer (if they still have them).
Remove the radiator fan assembly and the throttle body. Remove the 2 dogbone mounting bolts at the transmission bell housing... then you can ratchet-strap / tilt the engine backward a bit for more room.
one of the three most common issues lol oil cooler leak, cam follower and last but not least the pcv lol but its okay no lights on the dash on my b7 for a year now (fingers crossed)
When removing the hose from the plastic tube shown at 10:50, I'm getting coolant escaping from the hose. Should this be expected? And should I have flushed the coolant system before undertaking this repair?
Austin Snow I haven't watched the video in a while (since posting)... I usually try to drain coolant before opening major junctions. Maybe that's why you saw less when I removed mine.
Hey Thomas, thanks for all the great videos. I have a related question for you. 2007 A4 2.0t with BWT engine, loosing oil pressure and clicking pretty loud up by the cam adjuster. Car has 200k, has been well maintained and ran perfect until oil pressure dropped; it still runs fine other than the clicking from the adjuster (and low oil pressure measurement). Oil filter was dirty but no visual signs of metal. Fresh oil and filter made significant improvement, I pulled the oil fill cap and could see fresh oil splashing around in there. DETAIL: when I pulled the oil filter, there was what looked like 1" diameter piece of brittle o-ring in the housing; I now think that was the tip of the center piece of the oil filter housing. I was going to pull the pan to replace the pickup tube and possibly the pump until I saw this fragment in the filter housing. Do you have any thoughts on whether the oil filter housing could be causing a loss of pressure?
I think the housing just contains check valves that keep oil in specific places when the engine is shut off. The main pressure relief valve is part of the pump. A friend of mine posted several videos about low oil pressure on basically the same car... check his channel & videos to get some ideas of what it could be. First video link below... you'll have to go through the channel to get to the other videos. th-cam.com/video/HWbd7y8HLco/w-d-xo.html
hi, your video helped me a lot, but after removing and installing the new oil filter housing I broke the emission valve that connects the oil filter housing to the engine. I had to buy a new one from the dealer, and after i replaced it, I started to get the check engine light on. The code that my friend got with his scanner was P2404. We only purged air from the coolant hose. Do you know what can be wrong with my car getting that code? Thanks for your help
Love your videos! I’d prefer to move my vw jetta oil filter and make it top mount. Haven’t been able to find any videos. Would you recommend this be done or not. Thanks
Hey man! I love watching you do your thing, youre an inspirtation to those of us who have no clue what theyre doing haha, but i have a question about oil cooler leaks and symptoms. I have a 1.8t Jetta 2001 , and Ive been finding oil coming through my intercooler piping, into my intercooler, and what have you. I also have oil through out my pcv system, and i know i should be getting vapors instead of actual oil. Would this be a gasket problem, or would i need to do further research. Thank you!
Oil in the intercooler & pcv system is normal... the amount that collects within a given time (between oil chages) is what's important. If it's to the point of a cup or more that collects in the intercooler, you probably have an issue ( blow-by or turbo shaft seal). You can check the turbo shaft for excessive free play, as a start.
Would this same procedure be applied on a MK5 GTI FSI BPY? what would be the difference if there was any on changing the seals. And what kind of seal lube are you using in the video?
Yes... would be similar. The service manual will confirm. Just some assembly lube... not sure if it is of any use / help / benefit (force of habit to apply).
Hey Thomas. In the video your working on an audi. My b6 06 passat 2.0t fsi is leaking oil, from underneath. Are there any similarity between the two Contemplating doing it myself plus I found out the center piece is missing on the filter cover. Candy see were exactly the oil is coming from. Should I replace the whole assembly, or the cover only. 1 more ?. 05 mk4 gli, is there something different about the axle on them compared to a reg jetta . Thanks Thomas for your help
Yes, similar setup / design. Replace the assembly, not just the filter cover or housing gasket. Depending on the transmission, I think the inner joints are different.
Awesome video! Is the oil cooler seal and the filter housing assembly seal the only seals that are in that area? I have oil dripping on top of the oil pan, I thought it was a bad oil filter o-ring but I still have the leak. Pretty significant one at that.
Pause the video at 0:5 so you can see all the seals, oil filter cover & housing and the oil pressure switch. at 0:18 There's an oil pressure switch. Clean the whole area with Brake Parts Cleaner and then start the engine. Use a good flashlight to light-up the area while you are looking for the leak (engine running). Once you see fresh oil... follow it to the source.
Hello I know I'm a bit late but I've been having issues with my 2011 Audi A4 quattro. I have oil leaks on the driver side with them running down the two hoses in front of the car, down to the oil pan and what seems a good bit above that. When the car is sitting it's the smallest puddle but I "burn" 1qt per 200 miles, thought it could've been rings but the car has 96k miles and it does have a lil leak, if it were pistons and rings the car would always run like crap and always smoke, it only smokes on stop and go and it makes sense when the cars hotter going down the road that small puddle turns into a large one, would this cooler cause my Audi to be burning a little of oil, have small amount of black smoke and "drink" that much oil going down the road? Thank you very much (turbo was also just replaced due to bad waste gate)
I don't know... that's a newer vehicle than what is in the video. Your engine also doesn't have the same oil filter housing. Follow the leak to its source and replace what is leaking.
Disconnecting a coolant hose that is attached to a metal pipe (the one that goes to the turbo)... and then disconnecting the wiring harness from its mounting points. You'll see better on your car. If you already h ave the new part... basically remove what you have to remove... to remove what you want to remove.
Hey im Currently going through your vids. you should possibly take a hour or two and make playlists for example model of car? or different types of jobs performed on cars grouped together?? just a suggestion thats all
If you enter "EXOVCDS" plus whatever you are looking for... chances are that it will come up. Some examples: - EXOVCDS 2.0L - EXOVCDS VW A4 (should result in all mk4 stuff) - EXOVCDS VR6 etc
I just had mine done and when I got my car back there was green coolant and a o ring left in the engine bay. I drove my car 100 miles and blew my engine.
Thomas EXOVCDS I see the oil filter housing gasket OEM is like $60 but off brand ones on ECS are only $5. Is this a part that it matters a lot to go OEM?
@@tdawg719 don't just replace the gasket. Replace the complete unit. We had comebacks due to housings not sealing correctly even with new seals. So we only install complete new units now.
Nothing I do has to be done the way I do it. There's a subframe under the car that you would have to deal with / work around... you only have to remove what you HAVE to remove, so that you can remove what you WANT to remove. Sometimes I remove more than need be. Let me know what you end up doing / how it went for you.
I have used socket extractors to remove stripped hex bit bolts (that have a round head) as well as hex head bolts that have become stripped / rounded. A socket set covers a variety of sizes. encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcSkLLFANl1UFGjIBCdkbTWomqMA5afCg47ZKi3id_R-Zk2pX7U&usqp=CAc If the head of the bolt is not large enough for a socket to bite into, you can try to knock the bolt loose with a sharp chisel & hammer. Hit the bolt in a counterclockwise direction.
Amazing! Before seeing this that is exactly what I ended up doing….Got an extractor kit from Harbor Freight and Ace Hardware had an exact replacement of the stripped Hex bolt. Finally done.. I appreciate you taking the time to respond! Great videos!
Hey first of all, awesome video! By any chance do you know when you would have to replace the whole oil filter housing assembly? Instead of just replacing the seals?
Steven Avila we no longer just replace the seal... we've had a couple comebacks that continued to leak. It's best to replace the whole thing for the amount of time it takes to just get at the seal.
what the significance of pointin out which side of the car oil is leaking from? i need a cooler seal on my B8 2.0t and am guessing that helps determine WHICH seal is leaking?
Thomas EXOVCDS the upper would leak to passenger side? I don't have access to a lift, so having an idea before I get under it would be awesome. Thanks for the quick reply and high quality videos. Used another for a coolant sensor already!
Everything you see in the image at the beginning of the video, will leak on the driver side (engine sitting front to back). I'm at work right now, can explain more once I get home tonight.
The plastic hose with 4 plastic clips? I use 4 one inch x 1/2 inch plastic strips (I cut the plastic out of a washer fluid bottle) and I push them under the plastic clips of the plastic hose. Once the 4 clips are sitting on the plastic strips, you can pull the hose off of the housing... if that's what you meant.
+jack jia Drain the oil filter housing... the rest of the oil in the oil pan can stay there, unless you are do for an oil change, in that case, drain the oil pan as well. Using the drain tool (for the filter housing) makes draining the filter housing easy & keeps things clean: th-cam.com/video/yJ9wxeRvUQg/w-d-xo.html this video is for a 2.5L engine, but it uses a similar filter housing. The drain tool is attached after the 0:60 second mark in this video. If you don't have the tool, use a screwdriver to lift the drain nipple... it can get messy.
+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks mate! actually my oil cooler is leaking the coolant, looks like the oil cooler gasket is gone(?), any advise ( video or pic)? thank you!
+jack jia No... just what I have in this video (and part 2)... you might be able to leave the oil filter housing in place then, but I'd do those seals as well (remove the oil filter housing).
@@graysonmiller1016 like the text in the video said: Small triple square. A good set will contain what you need. I can't recall what the actual size is / was. M4 or M5 triple square... maybe. www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Triple-Premium-10-Piece-European/dp/B07M6884DY/
Hey I just picked up a 2004 passat 1.8t it was leaking coolant form the rear flange I got that fixed anyway put all the items back together and I noticed that there is a big oil leak from the passenger side.. I ended up toping out the oil and took it out for a drive the oil light came on and after that the engine idles roughly and little bit hard to crank. When I was driving it almost felt like the the throttle dips back and forth.. i looked under the turbo for leak and did not find any. Let me know if you have any suggestions.. do you think it’s a crack block?? Or maybe caused by leaking valve gasket.. thanks a lot
Jafin John Valve cover gasket & chain tensioner gasket are common causes for oil leaks on the passenger side. Make sure that enough oil is in the engine. Sludge blocking the oil pickup tube in the oil pan isxa common cause for oil pressure issues.
Thomas EXOVCDS on it right now just ordered new gasket for the car.. also I noticed that on the back side of the engine block there is two holes and I noticed that it’s leaking oil from it.. i did some research and find out that they are plugged so I guess someone forgot to put those plugs back.. I cannot complain because I got the car for real cheap.
Thomas EXOVCDS wow so who ever worked on the car previously did not put the bolts back for the timing chain tensioner.. so the oil is leaking from the tensioner Smh 🤦♂️
+Derrick Cain Are you sure that it is transmission fluid? Could be engine oil. Both have an "oil cooler" that uses coolant to cool the oil. When the cooler fails, oil can enter the cooling system. I can send you some info when I get home from work later tonight.
I am absolutely sure its the transmission fluid, as soon as I fill the transmission, it starts leaking into the coolant system, I have replaced the upper and lower transmission pressure hoses. Where is the transmission cooler? Is there anything that would cause bought hoses to burst.
+Derrick Cain The cooler is part of the radiator. There are 2 metal lines that leave the transmission and there are 2 metal lines that attach to the radiator... on the passenger side (left hand drive vehicle). remove the radiator and have it pressure tested. that's the only place that I can think of, where ATF fluid can enter the cooling system.
Hmmm since I had my car oil lights go off 3-4 times each year between service so I must top up. Audi branch told me leak in oil cooler and rocker cover I had both replaced 12 months on had 3 oil lights and now been told oil seen around oil cooler and I must drive it 300 miles and bring it back to them. Meh.... headache
Thomas EXOVCDS ITALIAN744 lol they did not day the magic words ‘oil consumption test’ but they want me to drive it 300 miles and come back ASAP. and yes since I’ve owned car nothing but oil lights going off every couple of months and yes I’ve spoken to other Audi owners saying they only do one oil top up a year kiss my teeth. In 2015 also the oil chain pump broke shortly after me buying it privately causing me to give Audi 3.5k to replace entire bottom of the engine which was painful! This is a very confusing car making me want to go to Japanese cars in future I previously owned a mk4 golf gti for nearly ten years and gave me little trouble at all except for having to change suspension brush’s every single bloody year.
Oil in the oil pan can stay in the oil pan. The filter housing is mounted to the side of the engine block... ABOVE oil pan level. The only oil that will drain out is oil that is in the filter housing & oil cooler. Yes, drain the oil from the pan if you are also doing an oil change. If the oil is still good, leave it in the oil pan.
Couple hours + parts... best to phone a local shop in your area. I'm in Canada... shop rates are different across the country and parts prices can also vary. You can find a reputable repair shop in your area by entering your postal code here: iatn.net/repair
@@tdawg719 My 2.5 to 3hrs was just a guess / gut feeling how long it would take (video is 5 years old and I haven't done one since), hence the question mark at the end of the sentence. I'm not sure if the Labor Guide Manual actually lists this specific repair.
I changed the whole oil filter housing with the new gasket and it was good for one week. Then start leaking again. I'm starting hate this car. Could someone help me with opinion. Thanks.
@@EXOVCDS Mating surface was perfect straight and clean . It was good for one week and then started leaking again. I'm thinking something have to be bad with the oil filter .
Maybe a couple hours including oil change and cooling system bleeding? I don't remember what the boss charged... and I don't have access to labor guide anymore, sorry.
+Warren Dellow Sorry... don't yet have a video on changing one of those. I have a video on oil seal replacement on a BWT engine (similar housing): th-cam.com/video/qip4_UYldrQ/w-d-xo.html link to part 2 is in the description.
+Thomas EXOVCDS cheers mate, just having a issue with getting a mechanic to understand what i need done this side of the pond. they keep thinking its the filter itself. any way of getting to this on this car
+Warren Dellow Sorry... just realized that you posted under the video that I just gave you the link to. It's pretty much the same for your car as it is in this video. The only difference is that the engine sits in a different direction. Remove the radiator fan assembly (for more room), then the intake tubing from the intercooler to the throttle body and then remove whatever is needed / in the way, to get the housing off of the engine.
$860 to have my shop replace this... (with oil change)... this is the last repair I'm putting into this money pit. They also just advised me of $1200 control arms... um.. nope... shes getting traded in in 4 months...
Thomas EXOVCDS you can get some jack stands and a $50 toolbox from harbor freight with more than enough tools to complete this job and many more down the road. Much cheaper than a shop even if u have to buy some tools and idk what kind of jobs most people who got this car have but i definitely will spend a couple hours in my driveway to save $300 and if I don’t have time because of my job, I would buy a toyota camry because these foreign cars are NOT worth taking to a shop
@@crazybg878 I get it... but like I said, not everyone can do what you did. If they tried to do the job, odds are that they make things worse or decide half way through that they can't do it. Then they are out time & money, as well as needing to find someone who can take over. Those who have to ask if it's something that they can do, probably don't have the tools or the skills. B7 Audi's are 10 to 15 years old... money pit or not, stuff goes bad with age. Sure Toyota, Honda etc might have fewer issues... so what makes people buy Audi's & VW's in the first place?
Any way that you can... if that means disconnecting various hoses, removing sensors etc to let the air out, so be it. A "vacuum" fill method is the best way to get the air out.... and is a worthwhile investment. Was that fast enough?
You only have to drain the oil filter housing... you can do it without draining the housing, but it gets a bit messy. You will have oil & coolant running down the side of the engine regardless, but less oil is better.
Just did this and followed instructions. Took me 5 hours because some screws and hoses were stuck on for life. Had some giving up moments but nonetheless I finished it and no leaks. Thank you for this helpful video and thanks to my confidence to even do this.
Thank you for sharing your DIY repair success... and thank you for watching!
Nice share which bolts or hose blocked you/ stuck locked, and how you open it...
Great video.
I just finished this job. Make sure you change the oil afterward. Its unavoidable that some coolant will get into the oil pan.
Good tip / reminder... thanks for sharing! It's a given when I do this job.
Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers.
4:00 glove cover trick .. Love it!
Thanks... some don't. As long as the glove does not get torn, I can use it later. =)
I just did mine yesterday wow! I could not believe how gunked up my oil housing was I'm glad I decided beforehand to buy a new one the oil seals alone are about 20$ and a new housing cost 15$ extra and you get seals and a filter too boot! oh yeah the alan bolts connecting it to the engine itself are 5mm alans not 10 great vid thanks.
Thanks for sharing your DIY success... thank you for watching!
This is the 2nd vid on utube saying the housing is 10mm. @@EXOVCDS
If you remove the sensor bracket by the housing you will not have to disconnect coolant lines. Will allow enough clearance to slide filter housing into position 👍👍, saves alot of time.
Thank you for the tip!
Where is that bracket located
@@steezyg9746 yes
Thanks for the tutorial. Much appreciated. Did mine today and its 1000% healthier
Thank you for sharing your DIY success and for watching my videos!
Getting ready to do the same thing this weekend thanks for the vid even though it’s 7 years old
thank you for watching... let me know how it went.
Newbie mechanic and aspiring automotive business owner here. Your videos are a godsend for people like me that want to work on VW/Porsche/Audi. I noticed the part# 06F115397J is shared with the transversely mounted VW GTI 2.0T. Is this the exact same part used in the Audi B7 2.0T FSI? Trying to stick with OEM genuine VW/Audi parts for this job for my personal vehicle
I don't know what fits where... it's best to go with the part numbers that are on the parts that you remove... most parts will have part numbers on them. In cases where there are no numbers, get the dealer to send you a parts list / diagram of the components you are working on, then google those numbers to find them online... or buy from the dealer (if they still have them).
Great video, just did a housing today. Keep up the good work.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
ok, well this looks to be a whole lot easier than on a 2008 FSI 2.0T /MKV GTI. darn tight.
Remove the radiator fan assembly and the throttle body. Remove the 2 dogbone mounting bolts at the transmission bell housing... then you can ratchet-strap / tilt the engine backward a bit for more room.
one of the three most common issues lol oil cooler leak, cam follower and last but not least the pcv lol but its okay no lights on the dash on my b7 for a year now (fingers crossed)
I really do enjoy your videos help me fix my car I own Audi and Passat 👌
Thank you!
When removing the hose from the plastic tube shown at 10:50, I'm getting coolant escaping from the hose. Should this be expected? And should I have flushed the coolant system before undertaking this repair?
Austin Snow Being a coolant hose... yes. You can either add / top-up with new coolant or you can do a full flush after things are back together.
Thanks - I got a fair amount of volume when I first attempted to remove the hose, more than I saw in your video, so I thought I'd double check.
Austin Snow I haven't watched the video in a while (since posting)... I usually try to drain coolant before opening major junctions. Maybe that's why you saw less when I removed mine.
Hey Thomas, thanks for all the great videos. I have a related question for you. 2007 A4 2.0t with BWT engine, loosing oil pressure and clicking pretty loud up by the cam adjuster. Car has 200k, has been well maintained and ran perfect until oil pressure dropped; it still runs fine other than the clicking from the adjuster (and low oil pressure measurement). Oil filter was dirty but no visual signs of metal. Fresh oil and filter made significant improvement, I pulled the oil fill cap and could see fresh oil splashing around in there. DETAIL: when I pulled the oil filter, there was what looked like 1" diameter piece of brittle o-ring in the housing; I now think that was the tip of the center piece of the oil filter housing. I was going to pull the pan to replace the pickup tube and possibly the pump until I saw this fragment in the filter housing. Do you have any thoughts on whether the oil filter housing could be causing a loss of pressure?
I think the housing just contains check valves that keep oil in specific places when the engine is shut off. The main pressure relief valve is part of the pump. A friend of mine posted several videos about low oil pressure on basically the same car... check his channel & videos to get some ideas of what it could be. First video link below... you'll have to go through the channel to get to the other videos.
th-cam.com/video/HWbd7y8HLco/w-d-xo.html
Where did you find that model of the oil filter housing Oring?
I can't find it anywhere.
This one: www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/06f115441a/
or
this one: www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/06d_117_070/
hi, your video helped me a lot, but after removing and installing the new oil filter housing I broke the emission valve that connects the oil filter housing to the engine. I had to buy a new one from the dealer, and after i replaced it, I started to get the check engine light on. The code that my friend got with his scanner was P2404. We only purged air from the coolant hose. Do you know what can be wrong with my car getting that code? Thanks for your help
can you post a video of what you broke and replaced? Here's some info on that code:
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18836/P2404/009220
+rol330 It is the pvc pipe the one that i broke
+rol330 More info:
fkh161.ca/Audi/P2404.png
Love your videos! I’d prefer to move my vw jetta oil filter and make it top mount. Haven’t been able to find any videos. Would you recommend this be done or not. Thanks
Year of Jetta and which engine?
@@EXOVCDS 2007 2.5
I am not aware of a "relocation" kit for the 2.5... since the 2.5 uses a big plastic filter housing. If I hear of anything, I'll let you know.
Hey man! I love watching you do your thing, youre an inspirtation to those of us who have no clue what theyre doing haha, but i have a question about oil cooler leaks and symptoms. I have a 1.8t Jetta 2001 , and Ive been finding oil coming through my intercooler piping, into my intercooler, and what have you. I also have oil through out my pcv system, and i know i should be getting vapors instead of actual oil. Would this be a gasket problem, or would i need to do further research. Thank you!
Oil in the intercooler & pcv system is normal... the amount that collects within a given time (between oil chages) is what's important.
If it's to the point of a cup or more that collects in the intercooler, you probably have an issue ( blow-by or turbo shaft seal).
You can check the turbo shaft for excessive free play, as a start.
Would this same procedure be applied on a MK5 GTI FSI BPY? what would be the difference if there was any on changing the seals. And what kind of seal lube are you using in the video?
Yes... would be similar. The service manual will confirm. Just some assembly lube... not sure if it is of any use / help / benefit (force of habit to apply).
Hey Thomas. In the video your working on an audi. My b6 06 passat 2.0t fsi is leaking oil, from underneath. Are there any similarity between the two Contemplating doing it myself plus I found out the center piece is missing on the filter cover. Candy see were exactly the oil is coming from. Should I replace the whole assembly, or the cover only. 1 more ?. 05 mk4 gli, is there something different about the axle on them compared to a reg jetta . Thanks Thomas for your help
I'm still at work... will get back to you once I'm at home.
Yes, similar setup / design. Replace the assembly, not just the filter cover or housing gasket. Depending on the transmission, I think the inner joints are different.
Hi, great vid man. Do you have any experience with aftermarket housings? Or the oem is the only way? Regards!
We only use OEM.
Awesome video! Is the oil cooler seal and the filter housing assembly seal the only seals that are in that area? I have oil dripping on top of the oil pan, I thought it was a bad oil filter o-ring but I still have the leak. Pretty significant one at that.
Pause the video at 0:5 so you can see all the seals, oil filter cover & housing and the oil pressure switch. at 0:18 There's an oil pressure switch. Clean the whole area with Brake Parts Cleaner and then start the engine. Use a good flashlight to light-up the area while you are looking for the leak (engine running). Once you see fresh oil... follow it to the source.
There's nothing else "pressure wise" around the filter housing that could cause oil to seep out.
@@EXOVCDS awesome so that tells me it’s either the oil cooler or the filter housing assembly. I appreciate it brother 👍
@@steezyg9746 Or oil pressure switch.
Do you drain the oil before doing this or do you not have to?
Hello I know I'm a bit late but I've been having issues with my 2011 Audi A4 quattro. I have oil leaks on the driver side with them running down the two hoses in front of the car, down to the oil pan and what seems a good bit above that. When the car is sitting it's the smallest puddle but I "burn" 1qt per 200 miles, thought it could've been rings but the car has 96k miles and it does have a lil leak, if it were pistons and rings the car would always run like crap and always smoke, it only smokes on stop and go and it makes sense when the cars hotter going down the road that small puddle turns into a large one, would this cooler cause my Audi to be burning a little of oil, have small amount of black smoke and "drink" that much oil going down the road? Thank you very much (turbo was also just replaced due to bad waste gate)
I don't know... that's a newer vehicle than what is in the video. Your engine also doesn't have the same oil filter housing. Follow the leak to its source and replace what is leaking.
What exactly were you doing from 7:40 til 9:00?????
Disconnecting a coolant hose that is attached to a metal pipe (the one that goes to the turbo)... and then disconnecting the wiring harness from its mounting points. You'll see better on your car. If you already h ave the new part... basically remove what you have to remove... to remove what you want to remove.
would it be easier to drop the filter and oil in the filter housing before or it's just preference?
Either way is fine... draining the oil out of the filter housing first would probably be best.
Hey im Currently going through your vids. you should possibly take a hour or two and make playlists for example model of car? or different types of jobs performed on cars grouped together?? just a suggestion thats all
If you enter "EXOVCDS" plus whatever you are looking for... chances are that it will come up. Some examples:
- EXOVCDS 2.0L
- EXOVCDS VW A4 (should result in all mk4 stuff)
- EXOVCDS VR6
etc
I just had mine done and when I got my car back there was green coolant and a o ring left in the engine bay. I drove my car 100 miles and blew my engine.
You noticed the coolant & o-ring before you drove away? Or did you notice the coolant & o-ring after it "blew"?
What would cause this part to fail? Looking at an a4 with a heavy leak that I think is this gasket or the housing itself.
Age and plastic components.
Thomas EXOVCDS I see the oil filter housing gasket OEM is like $60 but off brand ones on ECS are only $5. Is this a part that it matters a lot to go OEM?
@@tdawg719 don't just replace the gasket. Replace the complete unit. We had comebacks due to housings not sealing correctly even with new seals. So we only install complete new units now.
Thomas EXOVCDS okay I’ll buy a new unit. Does the OEM gasket matter though?
New complete unit might come with gasket... Victor Reinz gasket on ECS site should be ok.
Is there any reason why this couldn't have been done from below the car? Also is removing all of those connectors and brackets necessary?
Nothing I do has to be done the way I do it.
There's a subframe under the car that you would have to deal with / work around... you only have to remove what you HAVE to remove, so that you can remove what you WANT to remove. Sometimes I remove more than need be.
Let me know what you end up doing / how it went for you.
One of the hex bits that mounts the oil cooler to the filter housing is stripped.. any suggestions? Thx!
I have used socket extractors to remove stripped hex bit bolts (that have a round head) as well as hex head bolts that have become stripped / rounded. A socket set covers a variety of sizes.
encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcSkLLFANl1UFGjIBCdkbTWomqMA5afCg47ZKi3id_R-Zk2pX7U&usqp=CAc
If the head of the bolt is not large enough for a socket to bite into, you can try to knock the bolt loose with a sharp chisel & hammer. Hit the bolt in a counterclockwise direction.
Amazing! Before seeing this that is exactly what I ended up doing….Got an extractor kit from Harbor Freight and Ace Hardware had an exact replacement of the stripped Hex bolt. Finally done.. I appreciate you taking the time to respond! Great videos!
@raccooe thank you for watching.
good movie, very well done
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Hey first of all, awesome video! By any chance do you know when you would have to replace the whole oil filter housing assembly? Instead of just replacing the seals?
It is best to replace the whole thing rather than just the seals... meaning, once it's off of the engine, replace it.
Thomas EXOVCDS, If it good condition is it necessary to replace the oil filter housing.
Steven Avila we no longer just replace the seal... we've had a couple comebacks that continued to leak. It's best to replace the whole thing for the amount of time it takes to just get at the seal.
Thomas EXOVCDS, would a after market filter housing be just fine or would using OEM be my best bet.
I just said fuck the seals and changed the whole thing to begin with
what the significance of pointin out which side of the car oil is leaking from? i need a cooler seal on my B8 2.0t and am guessing that helps determine WHICH seal is leaking?
Correct.
Thomas EXOVCDS the upper would leak to passenger side? I don't have access to a lift, so having an idea before I get under it would be awesome. Thanks for the quick reply and high quality videos. Used another for a coolant sensor already!
Everything you see in the image at the beginning of the video, will leak on the driver side (engine sitting front to back). I'm at work right now, can explain more once I get home tonight.
do you know the part number for the hose you're holding at like 12:10?? thanks
Can't tell which one you mean... coolant or plastic pcv?
metal one.
@@eckopoppin Tske a picture of it / it's location and email me. fkh161@fkh161.ca
Is this similar procedure for a 2007 Passat 2.0 T FSI ? Thanks for any help.
Should be similar... I would have to check a service manual to be sure.
How do you get the hose off the top of the filter housing?
The plastic hose with 4 plastic clips? I use 4 one inch x 1/2 inch plastic strips (I cut the plastic out of a washer fluid bottle) and I push them under the plastic clips of the plastic hose. Once the 4 clips are sitting on the plastic strips, you can pull the hose off of the housing... if that's what you meant.
@@EXOVCDS I ended up just pulling a little and using an o ring hook to open the clips but thank you!
Thanks for the update / info!
WHAT IS A GOOD ESTIMATE OF LABOR TIME?
Hard to say, because it can be done within 2 to 4 hrs.
i am going to do this for my passat b7, just want to ask you do i need to get the oil out of engine first? Thank you!
+jack jia Drain the oil filter housing... the rest of the oil in the oil pan can stay there, unless you are do for an oil change, in that case, drain the oil pan as well. Using the drain tool (for the filter housing) makes draining the filter housing easy & keeps things clean: th-cam.com/video/yJ9wxeRvUQg/w-d-xo.html this video is for a 2.5L engine, but it uses a similar filter housing. The drain tool is attached after the 0:60 second mark in this video. If you don't have the tool, use a screwdriver to lift the drain nipple... it can get messy.
+Thomas EXOVCDS thanks mate! actually my oil cooler is leaking the coolant, looks like the oil cooler gasket is gone(?), any advise ( video or pic)? thank you!
+jack jia No... just what I have in this video (and part 2)... you might be able to leave the oil filter housing in place then, but I'd do those seals as well (remove the oil filter housing).
+Thomas EXOVCDS mate, The video is really helpful anyway!! Thanks for the reply!
what is the bit you use right after you disconnect the harnesses
At what point in time of the video (time stamp)? I haven't watched it since uploading.
@@EXOVCDS 9:30
@@graysonmiller1016 like the text in the video said:
Small triple square.
A good set will contain what you need.
I can't recall what the actual size is / was. M4 or M5 triple square... maybe.
www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Triple-Premium-10-Piece-European/dp/B07M6884DY/
Hey I just picked up a 2004 passat 1.8t it was leaking coolant form the rear flange I got that fixed anyway put all the items back together and I noticed that there is a big oil leak from the passenger side.. I ended up toping out the oil and took it out for a drive the oil light came on and after that the engine idles roughly and little bit hard to crank. When I was driving it almost felt like the the throttle dips back and forth.. i looked under the turbo for leak and did not find any. Let me know if you have any suggestions.. do you think it’s a crack block?? Or maybe caused by leaking valve gasket.. thanks a lot
Also now the car ideas a little funny
Jafin John Valve cover gasket & chain tensioner gasket are common causes for oil leaks on the passenger side. Make sure that enough oil is in the engine. Sludge blocking the oil pickup tube in the oil pan isxa common cause for oil pressure issues.
Thomas EXOVCDS on it right now just ordered new gasket for the car.. also I noticed that on the back side of the engine block there is two holes and I noticed that it’s leaking oil from it.. i did some research and find out that they are plugged so I guess someone forgot to put those plugs back.. I cannot complain because I got the car for real cheap.
I'm not sure / aware of 2 holes that need to be plugged... pictures?
Thomas EXOVCDS wow so who ever worked on the car previously did not put the bolts back for the timing chain tensioner.. so the oil is leaking from the tensioner Smh 🤦♂️
Could I have the part number for that piece? I prefer to not go to the dealership but will if I must.
Give the dealer your vin# and they will give you the part number. Best to get the number from the dealer, in case there is an updated number!
I have this same car. I am getting transmission fluid in my coolant tank. what could be the possible issues. I need help!
+Derrick Cain Are you sure that it is transmission fluid? Could be engine oil. Both have an "oil cooler" that uses coolant to cool the oil. When the cooler fails, oil can enter the cooling system. I can send you some info when I get home from work later tonight.
I am absolutely sure its the transmission fluid, as soon as I fill the transmission, it starts leaking into the coolant system, I have replaced the upper and lower transmission pressure hoses. Where is the transmission cooler? Is there anything that would cause bought hoses to burst.
+Derrick Cain The cooler is part of the radiator. There are 2 metal lines that leave the transmission and there are 2 metal lines that attach to the radiator... on the passenger side (left hand drive vehicle). remove the radiator and have it pressure tested. that's the only place that I can think of, where ATF fluid can enter the cooling system.
Hmmm since I had my car oil lights go off 3-4 times each year between service so I must top up. Audi branch told me leak in oil cooler and rocker cover I had both replaced 12 months on had 3 oil lights and now been told oil seen around oil cooler and I must drive it 300 miles and bring it back to them. Meh.... headache
Engines burn / use oil... this is normal (to a degree). Leaks are common when engines get older... also normal. Parts / seals don't last forever.
Thomas EXOVCDS ITALIAN744 lol they did not day the magic words ‘oil consumption test’ but they want me to drive it 300 miles and come back ASAP. and yes since I’ve owned car nothing but oil lights going off every couple of months and yes I’ve spoken to other Audi owners saying they only do one oil top up a year kiss my teeth. In 2015 also the oil chain pump broke shortly after me buying it privately causing me to give Audi 3.5k to replace entire bottom of the engine which was painful! This is a very confusing car making me want to go to Japanese cars in future I previously owned a mk4 golf gti for nearly ten years and gave me little trouble at all except for having to change suspension brush’s every single bloody year.
Without dropping the oil??
Oil in the oil pan can stay in the oil pan. The filter housing is mounted to the side of the engine block... ABOVE oil pan level.
The only oil that will drain out is oil that is in the filter housing & oil cooler.
Yes, drain the oil from the pan if you are also doing an oil change. If the oil is still good, leave it in the oil pan.
How much does this job cost?? Gotta get mine repair lol
Couple hours + parts... best to phone a local shop in your area. I'm in Canada... shop rates are different across the country and parts prices can also vary. You can find a reputable repair shop in your area by entering your postal code here:
iatn.net/repair
@@EXOVCDS gotcha. Thank you very much. Blessings🙏🙏😎😎👍👍👍
What did this service run the customer price wise?
I don't know what the boss charged... parts + 2.5 to 3 hrs (includes oil change & cooling system bleeding)?
Thomas EXOVCDS hmmmm. A shop quoted me $650 labor including the oil change. I was going to provide the off brand assembly and the oil cooler.
Thanks for your replies btw. Very helpful. I’d do the job myself but going through a divorce and don’t have my tools with me yet.
@@tdawg719 My 2.5 to 3hrs was just a guess / gut feeling how long it would take (video is 5 years old and I haven't done one since), hence the question mark at the end of the sentence. I'm not sure if the Labor Guide Manual actually lists this specific repair.
I changed the whole oil filter housing with the new gasket and it was good for one week. Then start leaking again. I'm starting hate this car. Could someone help me with opinion. Thanks.
Something is not sitting right / flush... would be my guess.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for your advice. I wil try to put new oil filter there first. Mann filter not some garbage from autozone.
@@EXOVCDS What do you think Thomas?
Take the old one off and inspect the mating surface.
@@EXOVCDS Mating surface was perfect straight and clean . It was good for one week and then started leaking again. I'm thinking something have to be bad with the oil filter .
Where's your shop!?
BC Canada.
How long does this job take?
Maybe a couple hours including oil change and cooling system bleeding?
I don't remember what the boss charged... and I don't have access to labor guide anymore, sorry.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you for the reply. I am doing this job tomorrow. Looks straight forward and not complicated.
@@buttdreads the small triple square bolts might be the only issue / difficult part. Let me know how things went for you once you are done.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you, Will do
Thomas EXOVCDS finished the assembly. The hardest part was the hoses lol took 2 1/2 hours oil change, coolant. Was actually very simple. 👍
you might not have a video on a mk5 please
+Warren Dellow Oil change? What engine?
+Thomas EXOVCDS its the housing adapter (06f115397h) for a tfsi
+Warren Dellow Sorry... don't yet have a video on changing one of those. I have a video on oil seal replacement on a BWT engine (similar housing): th-cam.com/video/qip4_UYldrQ/w-d-xo.html link to part 2 is in the description.
+Thomas EXOVCDS cheers mate, just having a issue with getting a mechanic to understand what i need done this side of the pond. they keep thinking its the filter itself. any way of getting to this on this car
+Warren Dellow Sorry... just realized that you posted under the video that I just gave you the link to. It's pretty much the same for your car as it is in this video. The only difference is that the engine sits in a different direction. Remove the radiator fan assembly (for more room), then the intake tubing from the intercooler to the throttle body and then remove whatever is needed / in the way, to get the housing off of the engine.
how much is tjat to fix ?
Rafael Blanco Not sure... the boss writes up the invoices.
$860 to have my shop replace this... (with oil change)... this is the last repair I'm putting into this money pit. They also just advised me of $1200 control arms... um.. nope... shes getting traded in in 4 months...
Cars aren't getting any younger... some need more TLC than others. =(
Lol is your shop the dealer... 450 at my local euro shop but did it myself for $60
@@crazybg878 Not everybody has the tools or the time.
Thomas EXOVCDS you can get some jack stands and a $50 toolbox from harbor freight with more than enough tools to complete this job and many more down the road. Much cheaper than a shop even if u have to buy some tools and idk what kind of jobs most people who got this car have but i definitely will spend a couple hours in my driveway to save $300 and if I don’t have time because of my job, I would buy a toyota camry because these foreign cars are NOT worth taking to a shop
@@crazybg878 I get it... but like I said, not everyone can do what you did. If they tried to do the job, odds are that they make things worse or decide half way through that they can't do it. Then they are out time & money, as well as needing to find someone who can take over. Those who have to ask if it's something that they can do, probably don't have the tools or the skills. B7 Audi's are 10 to 15 years old... money pit or not, stuff goes bad with age. Sure Toyota, Honda etc might have fewer issues... so what makes people buy Audi's & VW's in the first place?
How do you burp the air that ended up in the coolant system? Fast reply greatly appreciated
Any way that you can... if that means disconnecting various hoses, removing sensors etc to let the air out, so be it. A "vacuum" fill method is the best way to get the air out.... and is a worthwhile investment. Was that fast enough?
Thomas EXOVCDS very fast! So do you mean a vacuum attachment that connects to the top of the bubble?
Watch this:
th-cam.com/video/ADPxM2SC6Mc/w-d-xo.html
Oh! Oil on my tool box! I'm pisst!!!
That was a "blond moment"!
I am getting dizzy seeing this video
Don't watch then.
I hate to see those gloves you used to plug parts of engine going to waste...
It's not waste since they are being used. :-)
***** ye I know but maybe you could have thrown in a couple of rags or something
I like the video but this guy love using airtools on german cars when is not Necessary
I like to breathe because it makes life easier... you don't have to, but it helps. Just like air tools.
@@EXOVCDS you have to bro , breath is a necessity, is a bad example 😂😂
Do I need to drain the oil first before starting this project?
You only have to drain the oil filter housing... you can do it without draining the housing, but it gets a bit messy. You will have oil & coolant running down the side of the engine regardless, but less oil is better.
Do u have to drain the coolant system to remove the oil cooler?
Yes... coolant will drain out of the cooler when you disconnect the coolant lines.