Mustang Maximum Motorsports Subframe Connectors Full Length Set 1979-2004 Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- Bill shows you how to install a Set of Maximum Motorsports Full Length Subframe Connectors on your 1979-2004 Mustang.
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These subframe connectors from Maximum Motorsports are made of 1.5" x 2" x .083" thick rectangular steel tubing for superior strength. Each subframe connector runs from the front frame rail to the rear torque box, and require welding for installation.
Maximum Motorsports' subframe connectors are sold as a pair for the driver and passenger side, and include the necessary braces for your seats in your 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 or 2004 Mustang.
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One critical step that I think needs mentioning. Each subframe connector has a triangular shaped hole at the rear. After all other welding is finished, the final step is to weld this hole shut. The heat from the previous welding will purge all of the moisture out of the subframe connector. Welding the hole shut will keep any new moisture from getting into the subframe connector. If this step isn't followed, the subframe connector can rust from the inside out.
Great tip! Thank you!
@@akutan04rt50 I did it and now I’m stuck inside the subframe?!?!
@@fishsquishguy1833 Are you ok?? Did you get out??
What if you left it open and shot in some fluid film?
I do not agree with this. You need a hole or you will actually do the opposite and tap moisture in there through temperature change and humidity (condensation). Leave the hole
Just installed mine. Made a big difference. My doors are aligned now.
Installed these on my 90 coupe & one of best mods i made to car! MM products are top notch
Great video! This looks like exactly what I want. Probably going to do this myself over the winter, but I expect it to take longer than 6 hours. Welding while laying on your back is a bit trickier :)
The dislike was a Camaro owner. Excellent video!!
Hahaha probably, thanks for watching! Please subscribe!
😅
Choosing this sfc over late model restoration's due to the end tubing being capped and it comes with the extra pieces to weld in, good attention to detail
There's a lot of stupid comments here about what should be done different or better or so on. Only so much can be covered in under 10 minutes, there's a lot of details left out of the video for the sake of time. MM sends almost 15 pages of very detailed instructions with this product. Please, please! For the love of Mustangs, read the instructions before you start. Read them as you complete a step and head into the next one. Read them before you go to sleep at night. Know them...before you end up trying to sell your effed up Mustang at a discount to some guy that knows how to fix it!
Just installed these on my buddy's fox body. I am notoriously picky and slow and did this entirely myself. So, with that in mind, the time from rolling it into my shop to rolling it out was about 8 hours. I did not have a lift but did manage to get the front wheels on platforms and the rear on jackstands about 20 inches off the ground. A lift would have cut about 1 to 2 hours out of it maybe. I did have to mill out the seat bracket slots on one side to get the rear section of the connector to meet the frame. Be ready to fill some pretty large gaps on the rear especially if that area is damaged from being lifted in that area over the years. I also had to remove the exhaust system. The front drivers side had some super thin metal so I had to scab in some material to get a good weld. The rails were misaligned front to rear on both sides about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. So I tacked the front and just pulled them in a bit with a C clamp to get them in line with the frame. I am sure with cars of this age you will always run into surprises. Just be ready for this to take longer than you think.
Update - My buddy totaled this car three weeks later. T-boned by an suv when the back end came around on the mustang. The passenger door was pushed all the way to the steering wheel. He's lucky to be alive. He only had minor injuries and credits some of his luck to the subframe connectors I put in just weeks before.
Damn that blue sweet
2 things worth knowing: dont buy the painted ones especially the powdercoated ones. you have to grind off the paint or powdercoat to weld them and you will have to grind or sand about half of it off to weld and the stuff will still burn and smoke you out. guess how I learned that one... AND if your frame is tweaked at all, fitment is not fun. idk how my car is so messed up and still has straight body panels. neither connector lined up with the rear subframe. they were both a few inches off to the driver side so that means my car is bent in a right hand curve(don't know how else to describe it). and the driver side connector isn't sitting flush with the rear of the frame yet. I still got to finish that connector. also don't understand how the heck my doors open and shut at all let alone shut and open normally. none of the gaps in my body panels are right.
eXp0N3nT1aL mine had the same issue's in the back.. had to jack them up and then pull them inward
Ya know thank you for the info, I can tell my car has been in a minor wreck and I was wondering if someone else has had problems with installing frame connectors, so I am prepping myself mentally when the shop gives me a little bit bigger bill than normal, or they tell me it not doable which is fine and normal with my car
Question for you: does your car pull to one direction, since you mentioned the frame is somewhat bent? Even with a proper, in spec alignment and good suspension components and tires, does ur car still pull more to one side?
@@dicksteel91 I don't have the car anymore, but no it didn't pull to one side or anything. I did the alignment in my garage with measuring tape and I could let go of the steering wheel and it'd go straight as an arrow. The thing was a whole different car with subframe connectors. Kick myself for getting rid of it now... lol
Hi, thanks for the video. Will these work with a convertible?
This may be a dumb question but once installed do they block access to the torque boxes? Say torque boxes need reinforcing, should that be done first?
I would mention disconnecting the battery before welding. It's easy to forget
More than safe leaving the battery connected.
Why the red primer, over spray all over everything makes the job look sloppy. Otherwise great install
#becauseracecar
nice I bought the full length powder coated ones from you guys I'm going to get them welded. Any idea on a average price range that a shop might charge
+Lethal Snipes For the powder coated models, the installation time is going to be around 3.5 hours assuming that you don't have a convertible or 1996-98 Mustang Cobra. With either of those cars, add about 1 hour. Welding rates vary a lot depending on where you live, so you will need to look these up locally to determine the installation cost.
jhidley1 what is different on the 96-98 cobra cars? I had a '98 and remember seeing stuff would be different for them but never dug into it to find out
Lethal Snipes how much do the full length cost and does anybody have a link to them or know the website
I love my bolt in ones from umi for the s197, sturdy and no welding, didnt want to disturb the factory paint, rust comes out then!
I have a 92 convertible. I'm assuming thre oem ones are junk? Definetly a big difference from stock to full length weld in? Thanks
Nice notch back
I’m going to do this and had a question, would there be any benefit if I welded the entire seam that was resting against the metal subframe. Or is welding just the tabs fine and wouldn’t make a difference?
NOt really, it is more than strong enough just welding some seams but it won't hurt either.
CJ Pony Parts thank you, greatly appreciated, I’m welding on jack stands so you’ve saved me from being burnt more then I have to
So if a person is to be welding these in, should the carpet be removed inside or are these not being welded to the floor pan itself at all?
I tell you what worries me is that gas tank, Ive owned 2 of these cars for the last 28 years and they have a vapor vent in the tank that has a seal thats always rotting and it does let out a little gas vapor here and there specially if you like to fill it up to the brim,years ago i started leaving a gallon or 2 off my normal fill up and i would raise that carpet like you say,i like taking my time doing things,guess thats why i still have both of mine after 28 years,lol
If i remember correctly back in the day most magazines and installation instructions would mention the carpet when installing subframe connectors, maybe with these you dont have to do anything like that anymore,guess anyone can do it the way they see fit.
I thought you were supposed to weld with the tires having weight on them?
This. I've seen it both ways and I'm not sure which way is better.
He explains at the beginning he doesn't have a "drive on" lift so hes supporting the car from the control arms which is the next best thing,what you want to avoid is jacking any part of the body itself kinda like the places where you jack it up when you have a flat, that would be the body.
@@dntlss all subframe connectors need to welded in the cars natural suspension. Meaning, all weight should be on suspension.
@@tobylynn75 So if I were to put jack stands on the end of the axle tubes closest to the wheels and on the front control arms closest to the wheels would this work? It would still be supported by the suspension just not the wheels
@@sav22rem22 It would work but it's not ideal.
My understanding is that these are better for jacking also.
I’ve got a set of these but when I press them up to car the one end touches and the other end is down about 1inch from the frame should I just jack the connector up to the frame or bend the connector to fit?
I’m going through the same thing now did u ever figure it out?
What was the total time for install?
What is the exact paint used in this video ?
Good video in general but to get the true effect of frame connectors they should be welded the full length. Also I would protected the guys car from overspray, jeez I’d be upset.
The overspray blew me away too but you don't need continuous welds to get the strength. If a more solid connection is desired maximum Motorsports recommends stitch welding the length of the front subframe and do not weld across the end cap to the frame, this will crack over time. MM has been improving mustangs for a long time and they supply very detailed instructions. It's probably best to install their parts as they recommend.
Question? Are torque box reinforcements still necessary if you install that particular type of long sub frame connectors from Maximum Motorsports?
They certainly wont hurt.
They give 2 different types of support so best to do both
@@cjponyparts do the subframe connectors block access to the torque boxes once installed?
What is the little piece for ? structural or for looks
Wondering the same thing.. All I can think of is that piece goes over the bend in the subframe connector.. Maybe by eliminating that natural weak point it makes it stronger??
Could be a jacking point
If you have a convertible, do you have to remove the oem ones.?.
Yes they simply unbolt.
my floor board in the passenger rear where the feet go is a little rusted? what should i do?
We offer floor pans for the fox body. www.cjponyparts.com/floor-pan-full-length-1979-1993/p/FLP6-V/
Where to jack it up when the car has no suspension i toke all parts off
What about welding helmet and gloves for equipment required
Never assume seat bolts will just come right out. Deal with those STEP 1.
More foxbody videos!
Didn't cover proper orientation of the seat brackets, also not supposed to weld across the front or back edges of the subframe (he didn't but it wasn't pointed out). Also, for cars that may have or get an IRS in the future it's CRITICAL the rear is FLUSH with the outside edge. You guys should just do another vid and show these points on like a new edge cobra.
Is there any way to tell if your frame is sagging before installing the subframes?
Don't know if you got an answer anywhere yet but first inspect your car at the overlaps and panel joints for cracks. This will give you a decent idea of the integrity of the chassis/frame. If this looks pretty good and your doors and hatch (if you have one) line up and operate well then you're probably in good shape. Other than that maximum Motorsports gives some tolerances for gapping in the instructions that come with the connectors. They tell how to adjust the connectors to correct for some of the gap but if you're way way off you probably have a problem. I can't imagine that your doors would line up well if that was the case though.
Iggy Vasconcelos slap👋 your cars ass first
yo the paint on the bottom would piss me off
No time to mask off anything lots of over spray nice.
Bill sounds like Jimmy Kimmel.
He Sure does!!! HAHAHA!
These are not subframe connectors, they are unibody connectors, it doesn’t have a rear subframe, and they don’t connect to the front subframe, good video otherwise.
What the hell is the point of that stupid music? Totally annoying.