Hey, I’m sure others have already mentioned that you might be able to increase the voltage output of your welder just by adjusting the idle slightly with a voltmeter connected. I really enjoy your videos, keep them coming.
If you have a leftover heater core from one of the dump trucks it might work as an exhaust heat exchanger (as long as it’s not leaky) and maybe a computer 12 volt cooling fan to move the air. But if it’s working for you, no need. Happy tinkering!
17:43 I noticed you still had the cardboard corner protectors on the panels. That alone will knock the wattage down to practically nothing. I bet you would have gotten at least 50 watts if those had been off.
@@CaptainKleeman It's "shaded cell" syndrome. A solar cell can only pass on as much current as it is producing itself. Since PV panels cells are wired in series (in 99.9% of panels), the lowest current producing cell is the "weakest link" and limits the total panel current to whatever that one cell is delivering. In one of my early solar setups I noticed one sunny day that I was only getting < 30W from about 500W worth of seriesed panels. Upon inspection, I found one big-ass, wet maple leaf covering almost all of one cell. Peeled that sucker off and all was normal again. Since then I generally put two panels in parallel at each position of a series string of panels.
I have the harbor freight 100watt kit for my camp and it works great , even low light they'll charge .The batteries are my only issue, they're from a power chair , but it'll get the job done .
Good video, thanks for sharing your work. 👍 Love your British humor (British humour carries a strong element of satire aimed at the absurdity of everyday life.) As well as misspelling words😛 Pip-pip cheerio!
The Kleeman Khronikles continue.....another really great example of "run wutcha brung." I think if you can get yourself maybe 4 more solar panels you'll start to make a good dent in being electrically self sufficient for smaller projects. The vent fan is a good addition as well. Looking forward to seeing the next addition to the shop. Great content....great channel.
Check scrap/junk yards and put them alert that you are looking for cast iron radiators make sure the one you use has NO CRACKS OR UNPLUGGED holes. Safety first!
Cap’n, I have changed over to soldering heat seal connectors for my butt connections. So far, I haven’t had my butt disconnected even once!!!! I have used that rubber foam drawer liner to reduce slipping on a wet steel roof. The only problem that I have is pulling out and replacing all the tools in my toolbox drawers every time I need to crawl up onto a wet roof. I suppose a feller could buy an extra roll of shelf liner just for crawling on wet roofs… but, it’s cheaper to just wait until it’s dry! I get so confused when working on DC vs AC. I mean who was the genius that decided the black wire was ground on DC and power on AC? Volts, Watts, Amps… one or the other means something… to someone… somewhere… some time… to me it means… follow the instructions… then spend half a day watching some expert like you to figure out what I did wrong. Now please pardon me while I empty my toolbox drawers so I can check the soldered butt connectors of my 12V security light on the peak of my barn roof.
Hi capt. Those panels you have are one of the best you can get! And love the little diesel heater! Shop is going to be a nice place for your smaller projects!
Just add a jumper wire across the main breaker in the panel to energize the second bus. That will get you power the entire panel when connected to a 120V cord like you have done. Overloading the cord is the issue, but I'm guessing that power unit you have has 15A or 20A protection on that output circuit.
It's coming along very nicely, Captain!! SO glad you've talked with Jesse Muller....he's amazing! You know he's going to give you the best advice. I sure hope you get that heater working soon. Although warmer temps are coming your way. I live in NE Illinois, and it's 50 degrees today!! Woo Hoo!!
I just hooked up a Vevor diesel heater in a buddies garage . It took some time to get the fuel line primed then it started making heat. The clicking fuel pump gets a little annoying but it looks like quieter replacement pumps are available.
@@CaptainKleeman the unit I setup had a prime setting too but the Chinese to English instructions didn't make sense. I couldn't get that prime feature to work so I just cycled the unit a couple of times.
On my heater I "accidentally" found the priming mode. There is some combination of buttons that will fire your clicker pump for as long as you want. That's the E-10 error, at least for me.
Did you know that it is actually called Re-rolled Rail grade steel… because it is literally made from hot rolling old railroad rails. The same thing they make T-Posts out of. When you get a brittle one that splits the rails were made before 1916… the steel smelting industry was changed to meet the demands of WW1. I know that because I was a manager of Quality Assurance at a rolling mill for a while.
Hey! Quit spreading great information. Now the supply of good scraps will dry up, and have you priced high carbon steel lately? And coat hangers are Not great for welding with oxy/acetylene either. Just saying
@@wrstew1272 yes, it is the cheapest type of high carbon steel. But, as railroads decline… so will the supply. And, its cost is already rising. Given the High Demand for sign posts and T-posts…. It will be nearly extinct by the time my grandkids retire…. So, stock up now!!!!
rain snow sleet or scorching sun , Capt gets er dun. patching together off grid solar from different mfcs always trial and error. even supposedly off the shelf matched kits seem to come with guarantee hiccups. Jesse great source of knowledge. that vent fan will be a godsend in warmer months. Im in process of convincing supervisor to either get our 2 new 30x40 sheds comes with those exact fans pre installed or have the sparkies install them when the panels, lights go in
Solar panels on my house present several problems, the biggest being insurance. The solution is to install them on a stand alone structure (pergola) that will double as a shaded patio.
Mike, you can use a flat screwdriver to get the fuses off (and on) the DIN rail. You'll find a tab made for the purpose at the bottom of the fuse (side that is against the rail). Great work on the shop, great advances are made!
I bought a diesel heater that is more of a kit than the one you have. Separate fuel tank and control/digital read out etc. I just threw it together on a saw horse to test it out and it worked just fine with a small garden tractor battery. It puts out quite a bit of heat, but I have never installed it in my shed/barn. I don't know what draws so much current on yours? Good luck with the solar panels and hope they put out enough for you to charge the Bluetti. I would go with bigger panels if I were starting over. I just have 100 watt from Renogy and they do okay for charging my 12v battery I use for just a car radio in my old shop. I went through quite a bit of YT searching and built a solar tracking setup for one panel and it has been working great for several years. It was supposed to just be an experiment to see if I wanted to do a larger scale array. Four knee surgeries and prostate cancer treatment later it's all still just an experiment. I know you will get all working just keep at it!
some advices that might be usefull to you, sir - the air intake of the diesel heater should also be outside - the exhaust pipe of the dieasel heater can be made longer so that more heat remains inside - according to my measurements, the power consumption of the heater is about 4-10 watts after initial ignition, so it does not require 10 amps later on - the solar panels had cardboard pieces on the angles covering the panel - and this was enough for the panels to produce only about 10% of power (there is a rule - cover 10% of the panel - get only 10% of power), after you have removed the cardboard, it was darker already all and all, it is interesting to follow your ideas and the channel itself, greetings from a new subsriber and good luck
Just as an fyi, you had left the polystyrene corner packing on those panels, any full shaded areas reduces the panel output to near zero. Worth going parallel if your roof gets periodic tree shading during the day as in series, both/all panels on the string are dragged down to zero output.
@@CaptainKleeman I got 2 10A 35v panels (2 x 350w) in a garden where in winter, the twigs at the tops of the trees hit it most of the day, result 0.3A total output!
the heater works as it should. it takes a little while for the pump to feed the fuel into the combustion chamber. I have a similar one in my lathe workshop and on the boat as well. it consumes fuel moderately and if you keep it at the lowest power, you don't really even notice the consumption. if the panels do not produce enough, it is worth increasing the voltage to 44v and getting a decent mppt controller. This way you get more power in your battery pack. I have a 44v and 160w panel on the boat. with a lower voltage, the output of the panels was not enough due to consumption and because I live so far north, there is limited sunlight available. Now the output of the panels is 4-5A even on rainy days without sunlight. thanks for the 44v and mppt controller. Here is an option that you should consider if the charging current is not sufficient
You have power !!! Well, only a tiny amount so far..... yes the weather doesn't help, I think going for the bigger panels may be of benefit. Vevor extractor fan, should be as reliable as the tools you have in your collection 👍
@@CaptainKleeman It really depends on how often you'll be using the small shop's power. In summer you'll have nearly twice as much solar generation than winter, plus you've got the welder/generator when you get in a bind for juice. I'm gonna spitball and guess you'll need a minimum of 200W x 2 strings for 400W total if you use the shop power an average of 2 hours per day. That will probably run you short those times you spend the whole day in the shop running power tools and such, so I would aim for double at 400W x 2 strings. Much more than that I think would be over-investment in panels, with them spending a lot of time in the sun doing nothing. Unless you decide to add air conditioning for the summer time... then all bets are off ;)
Have you given any consideration to using the good half of the old welding bench outside and mounting it on a hing to the side of the building to fold away when not needed but fold out on nice days or projects that don't fit inside so well? That way you can still use it without the neighbors thinking you're the guy that holds onto everything? Love videos and the progress Capt. Keep up the great work my man 😁 👍
Boy, that thing about the brackets and the spacing of the ribs on the metal sounds familiar. It's those "who'da thunks" that get you everytime. As for me, as recently as yesterday, thank goodness for one-day delivery when you live 50 miles from the nearest "supply house." Thanks for the video, take care!
Captain, the Part 2 by the Install from Solar Panels on the Roof. The Panels install not the Problem, the other complete Accessoires right to setting up a hart Work for a Amateur! Thanks for the good Guidance. Greeting from Austria 👌
I was gonna say it's gonna be handy unless it overheats, catches fire and burns down the shop. But even then a fellow could cook some hotdogs, roast some marshmallows, and stay warm for a while. Might even make for a good video that generates lots of comments. A fellow could like that too, and it might soften the blow of the loss. Then there are the video opportunities of building a new off grid shop. The possibilities are only limited by the imagination! 😸
Michael... Just so ya know, the circuit breaker you installed is probably rated for 10 amp AC!!! DC is an ENTIRELY different animal due to the fact that if an arc starts, it doesn't pulse on / off 60 times per second! Where I live (down under in NZ), the breakers have two ratings on them. One for AC and a much SMALLER one for DC
@@CaptainKleeman Well that's a good start!!! TBH, this breaker is barely needed with only 2 little panels installed. It's almost more of a 'panel disconnect switch' than a breaker... If you had way more panels arranged in a series / parallel combination, things would be somewhat different though.
The unit runs high amps with a glow lamp and a fan for the first 30 seconds then the amps drop back to half an amp on 12 volts. On start up it will draw at least 15 amps and with the wiring you have you will get a big voltage drop and when the supply voltage drops it will cut out the unit.
Capt. at 17:00 you have low watts problem. Those corner protectors on the panel are blocking part of the solar panel and that is a problem. Take those cardboard protectors off of them. Any part of the panel shaded will mess up your numbers.
I used an old AC copper line set 3/4” cut the top off and opened a hole in the bottom of an old air tank, coiled the copper up in the tank then hooked to the exhaust to the copper tubing and then ran it out out the opposite wall. With the heater running and the fan (little bigger than yours) on back i almost get as much heat out of the exhaust heat recovery as i do out of the heater, i have the recovery tank on one side of the container and the heater on the other it warms my 40’ uninsulated steel container from 25* to 55-60* in about an hour
Diesel heaters have low voltage cut out. Try monitoring the input voltage on start up. The heater uses 30 amps for the ignition. If the input cable is too small or the battery not fully charged the volts will drop and trip the low volt cut out. Note 30 amp is only use for start up. Used fit to vans in GB.
You're making progress Captain! You'll get it working eventually. At the end of the video I noticed an American flag book on the top left shelf . Is it a book or a secret compartment ? Anyway I'm Pretty sure I gave it to you nice to see you kept it. I'll keep an eye out for more stuff now that you have the space for it. (Just Kidding).
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, ideas and videos. Always find your projects interesting and enjoy seeing the problems you troubleshoot as they are very likely something I would probably also have. Wranglerstar had very similar problems with his oil heater hooked up to a Eco Flow. As for solar panels I remember watching an off grid solar build where the person bought surplus solar panels at a substantial discount. Can’t remember the exact sight he used, quick google turned up several. Might be worth seeing if they have any deals you might find interesting. Wishing you and your family the best.
Lots of progress Captain! No, not completed but progress. I'd be inclined to test the output of the panels with a meter and also test the disconnect (for resistance)with a meter. Likely the issue is the panels but cant hurt to check when you have time.
They take a couple of turn ons to bleed the fuel through to then ignite. I've had one hooked to my house for years now. They draw quite a bit of power on start up, but then drop once running. Great heaters though. I have an old large stone house here in Scotland UK and the diesel heater heats the downstairs up qujckly while the log burner gets to temp.
Tip to get wires through tubes: get a little string, tie a wad of paper (light wad) of so on the string, use a vacuum cleaner to suck the string trough the tubes, followed with the thicker string. Then use the wire to pull the electrical wire though the tubes. (do not forget the tie a new string in the bundle so you have a string for next time)
You can use a shop vac for this , either to suck the string through , or , blow it through , if you have a hose that fits the exhaust port and most do . I have also seen leaf blowers used . Pro tip ; just be sure if it is underground conduit , to blow from the INSIDE to the OUTSIDE , unless you are absolutely sure the conduit is clean and dry . I have seen some truly ungodly mud and rock geysers happen on conduit that had gotten partially filled with mud / water / gravel . It would make a good video , but , the cleanup is a total PIA . For shorter runs , any reasonably stiff piece of wire or fiberglass is a good stand in if you don't have a fish tape or glow rods .
Just a thought about the cooling fan in the cabinet, heat raises so I'd have the fan turned so it is blowing out of the cabinet, let it pull air in from the back of the cabinet, you could give a couple saw slots to keep critters out just put them towards the bottom to use convection to help move the heat out.
Hi again, did you by chance remove the shipping corners off the solar panels after you put them on the roof? If those are mostly covering even one solar cell in the array, then output is really affected. At my home I was looking to upgrade my panels to higher output panels but I found out that the higher output panels (mostly) are also physically larger. So physical size may be a factor in changing panels.
Mike, I'm confused! You have the Bluettiac300 connected to a 100 Amp Phase Box running the lights in the shed. Your trying to connect a heater to the Bluettiac300. Why not connect the heater to the 100Amp Phase box. Put in a breaker switch, connect the wires, flip on the breaker switch, and your done! Why try and connect it back to the Bluettiaic300? Let's go a little Simpler, A to B and B to everything else! I know, let's spend more money on cables we don't need! 🙄🙄 Time to think on-Grid using Off-Grid power!
To bad they didn't send you the solar panel with the blue etti. I think mine is 180 watts. I know ecoflow had a 200+ panel. I also watched a video, on TH-cam, no doubt. Said harbor freight 100 watt panels did well against the high price ones.
I have solar and I’m pretty happy with it. Really nice to not have to bend over on the regular for the utility company. Are your panels facing south or west? North or east won’t generate as much power.
I know it's a dumb observation moment butt either spray foam a couple inches thick or so metal building insulation or 2 inch foam boards something because you will just waste sooo much heat tin doesn't trap heat very well but you also live in Indiana yall barely hit single digits but no insulation here in newhampsire the cold elseeps in fast than a heater especially one that can produce btus
The thing might need the battery warmer to accept more charge rate. Lithium can be damaged by charging when too cold. The system might have a battery temperature sensor to protect the battery.
I hate doing offsets with tiny little pieces of conduit like that. (Im okay with cutting one off the end of a length) Youre obviously much better sparky than me. 😂 I'd just buy a box offset if i had to work with scrap.
I just wanted you to know that it is a 'Blue Eddie'. At least that is what the auto translator says. The translator comes up with different names depending on your accent. :)
This is the power supply from Amazon I have been running my heater on cost 20 bucks eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Computer Project, 3D Printer
A lot of the solar chargers I’ve come across require a minimum amount of voltage before they will recognize the panels. That maybe what’s going on or I might be completely wrong idk lol
Even on a cloudy day the "Captain Kleeman channel" creates electricity and is great fun to watch.
💪
Hey, I’m sure others have already mentioned that you might be able to increase the voltage output of your welder just by adjusting the idle slightly with a voltmeter connected. I really enjoy your videos, keep them coming.
The styrofoam on the corners of the panel are creating shade which kills panel output. Pull that foam off and you'll see the watts jump.
The glow plug in those diesel heaters use a lot of energy to get the heater started.
Yup
Moving forward. Nice progress. Thanks for sharing your journey. Blessings.
💪
If you have a leftover heater core from one of the dump trucks it might work as an exhaust heat exchanger (as long as it’s not leaky) and maybe a computer 12 volt cooling fan to move the air. But if it’s working for you, no need. Happy tinkering!
❤. Tony's tractor adventures can help you he has all the same stuff.
Keep up the good work I'm proud of you
You are installing this on a rainy day just as we are having our first week with sun in months.
Great!
It's about time!
You have sunlight? Can I visit?😮 😂 😊
Keep on, keeping on to make progress. Can be challenging to get everything to work together.
17:43 I noticed you still had the cardboard corner protectors on the panels. That alone will knock the wattage down to practically nothing. I bet you would have gotten at least 50 watts if those had been off.
It's crazy that would make that much of a difference. Today I got around 120 watts between the two panels.
@@CaptainKleeman It's "shaded cell" syndrome. A solar cell can only pass on as much current as it is producing itself. Since PV panels cells are wired in series (in 99.9% of panels), the lowest current producing cell is the "weakest link" and limits the total panel current to whatever that one cell is delivering.
In one of my early solar setups I noticed one sunny day that I was only getting < 30W from about 500W worth of seriesed panels. Upon inspection, I found one big-ass, wet maple leaf covering almost all of one cell. Peeled that sucker off and all was normal again. Since then I generally put two panels in parallel at each position of a series string of panels.
You always impress me Michael, you can always find a way to make it work in the end. That is good old Yankee ingenuity..
💪
Some would question Yankee after studying his accent. Just saying 😂
Just got done catching up on a bunch of your videos. Really enjoyed the backhoe series. You are one talented guy! Can't wait for future videos.
I have the harbor freight 100watt kit for my camp and it works great , even low light they'll charge .The batteries are my only issue, they're from a power chair , but it'll get the job done .
Heck yeah
👍 Itta' be ah ite. Jesse...my man... that dude will tackle anything!
He is awesome for sure!
You’re progressing well Mike.
Glad to see all the truly knowledgeable help in the comments.
💪
The depth and breadth of your skills are mind-boggling! Well done. Enjoying your videos immensely.
Thanks!
Good video, thanks for sharing your work. 👍 Love your British humor (British humour carries a strong element of satire aimed at the absurdity of everyday life.) As well as misspelling words😛 Pip-pip cheerio!
Appreciate ya watching!
Good one Captain. Made a lot of progress. Seems all you have left is the finishing up. 🤣🐶
The Kleeman Khronikles continue.....another really great example of "run wutcha brung." I think if you can get yourself maybe 4 more solar panels you'll start to make a good dent in being electrically self sufficient for smaller projects. The vent fan is a good addition as well. Looking forward to seeing the next addition to the shop. Great content....great channel.
Definitely going to need some more panels. And probably change the way I mount them as well. Appreciate ya watching
it's coming along nicely, now all you need is for that outside heat and light source to start working again,great video Mike 👏👏👏👏👏👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👍👍👍
💪
Awesome! Still, you have progress. I can hardly wait until the next video! Thanks for sharing! 😊
Appreciate ya watching!
Check scrap/junk yards and put them alert that you are looking for cast iron radiators make sure the one you use has NO CRACKS OR UNPLUGGED holes. Safety first!
Lol, that would be my luck, get a cracked radiator and not know it
Cap’n, I have changed over to soldering heat seal connectors for my butt connections. So far, I haven’t had my butt disconnected even once!!!!
I have used that rubber foam drawer liner to reduce slipping on a wet steel roof. The only problem that I have is pulling out and replacing all the tools in my toolbox drawers every time I need to crawl up onto a wet roof. I suppose a feller could buy an extra roll of shelf liner just for crawling on wet roofs… but, it’s cheaper to just wait until it’s dry!
I get so confused when working on DC vs AC. I mean who was the genius that decided the black wire was ground on DC and power on AC? Volts, Watts, Amps… one or the other means something… to someone… somewhere… some time… to me it means… follow the instructions… then spend half a day watching some expert like you to figure out what I did wrong.
Now please pardon me while I empty my toolbox drawers so I can check the soldered butt connectors of my 12V security light on the peak of my barn roof.
I've seen those style connectors, may have to give them a try
I am confident…, in your confidence Captain…
Great video series,
Thank you sir.
Hi capt. Those panels you have are one of the best you can get! And love the little diesel heater! Shop is going to be a nice place for your smaller projects!
Hope to get some more!
Just add a jumper wire across the main breaker in the panel to energize the second bus. That will get you power the entire panel when connected to a 120V cord like you have done. Overloading the cord is the issue, but I'm guessing that power unit you have has 15A or 20A protection on that output circuit.
It's coming along very nicely, Captain!! SO glad you've talked with Jesse Muller....he's amazing! You know he's going to give you the best advice. I sure hope you get that heater working soon. Although warmer temps are coming your way. I live in NE Illinois, and it's 50 degrees today!! Woo Hoo!!
50 and sunny here! Feels like summer
I just hooked up a Vevor diesel heater in a buddies garage . It took some time to get the fuel line primed then it started making heat. The clicking fuel pump gets a little annoying but it looks like quieter replacement pumps are available.
I think that may be the issue. I learned today that it has an actual prime setting that I hadn't used yet.
@@CaptainKleeman the unit I setup had a prime setting too but the Chinese to English instructions didn't make sense. I couldn't get that prime feature to work so I just cycled the unit a couple of times.
On my heater I "accidentally" found the priming mode. There is some combination of buttons that will fire your clicker pump for as long as you want. That's the E-10 error, at least for me.
Bed frame angle iron is the best angle iron.
No doubt about it
Did you know that it is actually called Re-rolled Rail grade steel… because it is literally made from hot rolling old railroad rails. The same thing they make T-Posts out of. When you get a brittle one that splits the rails were made before 1916… the steel smelting industry was changed to meet the demands of WW1.
I know that because I was a manager of Quality Assurance at a rolling mill for a while.
Hey! Quit spreading great information. Now the supply of good scraps will dry up, and have you priced high carbon steel lately? And coat hangers are Not great for welding with oxy/acetylene either. Just saying
@@wrstew1272 yes, it is the cheapest type of high carbon steel. But, as railroads decline… so will the supply. And, its cost is already rising.
Given the High Demand for sign posts and T-posts…. It will be nearly extinct by the time my grandkids retire…. So, stock up now!!!!
Always a pleasure watching your videos
rain snow sleet or scorching sun , Capt gets er dun. patching together off grid solar from different mfcs always trial and error. even supposedly off the shelf matched kits seem to come with guarantee hiccups. Jesse great source of knowledge. that vent fan will be a godsend in warmer months. Im in process of convincing supervisor to either get our 2 new 30x40 sheds comes with those exact fans pre installed or have the sparkies install them when the panels, lights go in
I got mine up and working today, moves alot of air!
Solar panels on my house present several problems, the biggest being insurance. The solution is to install them on a stand alone structure (pergola) that will double as a shaded patio.
Yeah, I've seen several build them on trailers, I like that idea
Captain, your fabrication skills amaze me.
Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Tim
I am loving all your video's, really great stuff. Great job ! Never boring that's for sure. Thanks
Thanks andy
Mike, you can use a flat screwdriver to get the fuses off (and on) the DIN rail. You'll find a tab made for the purpose at the bottom of the fuse (side that is against the rail).
Great work on the shop, great advances are made!
Alumina Acres has great videos on solar panes . That is what they run their home with .
I bought a diesel heater that is more of a kit than the one you have. Separate fuel tank and control/digital read out etc. I just threw it together on a saw horse to test it out and it worked just fine with a small garden tractor battery. It puts out quite a bit of heat, but I have never installed it in my shed/barn. I don't know what draws so much current on yours? Good luck with the solar panels and hope they put out enough for you to charge the Bluetti. I would go with bigger panels if I were starting over. I just have 100 watt from Renogy and they do okay for charging my 12v battery I use for just a car radio in my old shop. I went through quite a bit of YT searching and built a solar tracking setup for one panel and it has been working great for several years. It was supposed to just be an experiment to see if I wanted to do a larger scale array. Four knee surgeries and prostate cancer treatment later it's all still just an experiment. I know you will get all working just keep at it!
some advices that might be usefull to you, sir
- the air intake of the diesel heater should also be outside
- the exhaust pipe of the dieasel heater can be made longer so that more heat remains inside
- according to my measurements, the power consumption of the heater is about 4-10 watts after initial ignition, so it does not require 10 amps later on
- the solar panels had cardboard pieces on the angles covering the panel - and this was enough for the panels to produce only about 10% of power (there is a rule - cover 10% of the panel - get only 10% of power), after you have removed the cardboard, it was darker already
all and all, it is interesting to follow your ideas and the channel itself, greetings from a new subsriber and good luck
Awesome job Cap! Those are definitely for R panels
Yup, wish the description was a little more descript when I ordered lol
Maybe try a combination system with a small wind turbine. Or even try the D.I.Y. on the alternator / washing machine motor windmill. Be fun learning
Might be fun
Just as an fyi, you had left the polystyrene corner packing on those panels, any full shaded areas reduces the panel output to near zero. Worth going parallel if your roof gets periodic tree shading during the day as in series, both/all panels on the string are dragged down to zero output.
That's pretty wild, I didn't realize it would affect it that much. Thanks for watching!
@@CaptainKleeman I got 2 10A 35v panels (2 x 350w) in a garden where in winter, the twigs at the tops of the trees hit it most of the day, result 0.3A total output!
the heater works as it should. it takes a little while for the pump to feed the fuel into the combustion chamber. I have a similar one in my lathe workshop and on the boat as well. it consumes fuel moderately and if you keep it at the lowest power, you don't really even notice the consumption.
if the panels do not produce enough, it is worth increasing the voltage to 44v and getting a decent mppt controller. This way you get more power in your battery pack. I have a 44v and 160w panel on the boat. with a lower voltage, the output of the panels was not enough due to consumption and because I live so far north, there is limited sunlight available. Now the output of the panels is 4-5A even on rainy days without sunlight. thanks for the 44v and mppt controller.
Here is an option that you should consider if the charging current is not sufficient
The bluetti has a built in mpppt, and can handle up to 150v per array, so it should be able to handle some bigger panels with ease
You have power !!! Well, only a tiny amount so far..... yes the weather doesn't help, I think going for the bigger panels may be of benefit.
Vevor extractor fan, should be as reliable as the tools you have in your collection 👍
Definitely going to need more panels. Excited to finally be trying it though!
@@CaptainKleeman It really depends on how often you'll be using the small shop's power. In summer you'll have nearly twice as much solar generation than winter, plus you've got the welder/generator when you get in a bind for juice. I'm gonna spitball and guess you'll need a minimum of 200W x 2 strings for 400W total if you use the shop power an average of 2 hours per day. That will probably run you short those times you spend the whole day in the shop running power tools and such, so I would aim for double at 400W x 2 strings. Much more than that I think would be over-investment in panels, with them spending a lot of time in the sun doing nothing.
Unless you decide to add air conditioning for the summer time... then all bets are off ;)
Have you given any consideration to using the good half of the old welding bench outside and mounting it on a hing to the side of the building to fold away when not needed but fold out on nice days or projects that don't fit inside so well? That way you can still use it without the neighbors thinking you're the guy that holds onto everything? Love videos and the progress Capt. Keep up the great work my man 😁 👍
Boy, that thing about the brackets and the spacing of the ribs on the metal sounds familiar. It's those "who'da thunks" that get you everytime. As for me, as recently as yesterday, thank goodness for one-day delivery when you live 50 miles from the nearest "supply house." Thanks for the video, take care!
Captain, the Part 2 by the Install from Solar Panels on the Roof. The Panels install not the Problem, the other complete Accessoires right to setting up a hart Work for a Amateur! Thanks for the good Guidance. Greeting from Austria 👌
A fellow could get to like having power in his off grid shop! 😸
Gonna be handy!
I was gonna say it's gonna be handy unless it overheats, catches fire and burns down the shop. But even then a fellow could cook some hotdogs, roast some marshmallows, and stay warm for a while. Might even make for a good video that generates lots of comments. A fellow could like that too, and it might soften the blow of the loss. Then there are the video opportunities of building a new off grid shop. The possibilities are only limited by the imagination! 😸
Michael... Just so ya know, the circuit breaker you installed is probably rated for 10 amp AC!!!
DC is an ENTIRELY different animal due to the fact that if an arc starts, it doesn't pulse on / off 60 times per second!
Where I live (down under in NZ), the breakers have two ratings on them. One for AC and a much SMALLER one for DC
I wonder if the part where it says 10amp dc means anything? Hmmm....
@@CaptainKleeman
Well that's a good start!!!
TBH, this breaker is barely needed with only 2 little panels installed. It's almost more of a 'panel disconnect switch' than a breaker...
If you had way more panels arranged in a series / parallel combination, things would be somewhat different though.
Love this project !!
Thanks!
After 50 years , I’ve learned that assuming is the mother of all delays.
The unit runs high amps with a glow lamp and a fan for the first 30 seconds then the amps drop back to half an amp on 12 volts. On start up it will draw at least 15 amps and with the wiring you have you will get a big voltage drop and when the supply voltage drops it will cut out the unit.
Capt. at 17:00 you have low watts problem. Those corner protectors on the panel are blocking part of the solar panel and that is a problem. Take those cardboard protectors off of them. Any part of the panel shaded will mess up your numbers.
Please make sure you add duck seal to the conduit pipe on the roof. You don't want side ways rain to fill your disconnect.
Hi thanks for taking us along 👍🐝🌞
Appreciate ya watching!
I used an old AC copper line set 3/4” cut the top off and opened a hole in the bottom of an old air tank, coiled the copper up in the tank then hooked to the exhaust to the copper tubing and then ran it out out the opposite wall. With the heater running and the fan (little bigger than yours) on back i almost get as much heat out of the exhaust heat recovery as i do out of the heater, i have the recovery tank on one side of the container and the heater on the other it warms my 40’ uninsulated steel container from 25* to 55-60* in about an hour
That's a cool idea
Maybe a heater core that holds pressure? Ad a 12 volt fan, heater box assembly from a vehicle? Maybe?
Or a 12 volt computer fan would work and draw a fairly low current . They make them for 120v AC as well .
Maybe
Diesel heaters have low voltage cut out. Try monitoring the input voltage on start up. The heater uses 30 amps for the ignition. If the input cable is too small or the battery not fully charged the volts will drop and trip the low volt cut out. Note 30 amp is only use for start up. Used fit to vans in GB.
You're making progress Captain! You'll get it working eventually. At the end of the video I noticed an American flag book on the top left shelf . Is it a book or a secret compartment ? Anyway I'm Pretty sure I gave it to you nice to see you kept it. I'll keep an eye out for more stuff now that you have the space for it. (Just Kidding).
It is!
Nice clean job Mike, starting to look like a nice work shop👍👍😎😎🍮🍮❤️
Thanks!
This is a working process you will get it for sure prompts me to get this up and running in my outside shed 👍👋🇨🇦
Thanks Captain always entertaining
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, ideas and videos. Always find your projects interesting and enjoy seeing the problems you troubleshoot as they are very likely something I would probably also have. Wranglerstar had very similar problems with his oil heater hooked up to a Eco Flow. As for solar panels I remember watching an off grid solar build where the person bought surplus solar panels at a substantial discount. Can’t remember the exact sight he used, quick google turned up several. Might be worth seeing if they have any deals you might find interesting. Wishing you and your family the best.
I'll have to check that out, thanks!
Love watching you, you defiantly make my night you really are very informative cheers Jill Australia 🇦🇺🐨
Thanks jill!
It's so fun to watch your progress. Thanks for another good video.
Thanks for watching!
Always have solar panels facing the south, they will pick up the most sunlight.
Lots of progress Captain! No, not completed but progress. I'd be inclined to test the output of the panels with a meter and also test the disconnect (for resistance)with a meter. Likely the issue is the panels but cant hurt to check when you have time.
They take a couple of turn ons to bleed the fuel through to then ignite. I've had one hooked to my house for years now. They draw quite a bit of power on start up, but then drop once running. Great heaters though. I have an old large stone house here in Scotland UK and the diesel heater heats the downstairs up qujckly while the log burner gets to temp.
I found out it has a prime cycle. That got it up and going today. Appreciate ya watching
@@CaptainKleeman "Appreciate ya watching" It'll be hard not to watch, yours has always been the best channel on the TH-cams.
I really could feel it deep in my soul when everything wasn't working....Those monuments test a fella🥴
It's always all on the same day too lol
Good morning Captain Kleeman
Morning!
If the heater core doesn't leak, you could use it
Tip to get wires through tubes: get a little string, tie a wad of paper (light wad) of so on the string, use a vacuum cleaner to suck the string trough the tubes, followed with the thicker string. Then use the wire to pull the electrical wire though the tubes. (do not forget the tie a new string in the bundle so you have a string for next time)
You can use a shop vac for this , either to suck the string through , or , blow it through , if you have a hose that fits the exhaust port and most do .
I have also seen leaf blowers used .
Pro tip ; just be sure if it is underground conduit , to blow from the INSIDE to the OUTSIDE , unless you are absolutely sure the conduit is clean and dry .
I have seen some truly ungodly mud and rock geysers happen on conduit that had gotten partially filled with mud / water / gravel .
It would make a good video , but , the cleanup is a total PIA .
For shorter runs , any reasonably stiff piece of wire or fiberglass is a good stand in if you don't have a fish tape or glow rods .
Hey! I’m a tight wad and refuse your suggestions on motivation. 😂
lol
@@wrstew1272
My wife lets me watch dirt perfect but she requests me to watch captain kleenman❤
💪
Smart woman you are allowing to guide you through life! 😅. 😂. 😊
This was fun 😊
The diesel heater has a fuel prime function that you need to use for the first time. It’s controlled on the panel.
I learned that today! Worked like a charm!
i love these cliff hangers you been haven lately also not haven to wear my hard hat but i have it handy so dont worry about hitting us lol
Keep that thing handy for sure!
Just a thought about the cooling fan in the cabinet, heat raises so I'd have the fan turned so it is blowing out of the cabinet, let it pull air in from the back of the cabinet, you could give a couple saw slots to keep critters out just put them towards the bottom to use convection to help move the heat out.
Hi again, did you by chance remove the shipping corners off the solar panels after you put them on the roof? If those are mostly covering even one solar cell in the array, then output is really affected. At my home I was looking to upgrade my panels to higher output panels but I found out that the higher output panels (mostly) are also physically larger. So physical size may be a factor in changing panels.
Good call. I was wondering about the cardboard covers as well
At 25.45 the packing has been removed
Cool it's going to work great video thanks Mike
Dont use a radiator with plastic headers, but if you found a huge brass one from a semi or heavy equipment it would be ideal.
Personally I think you're a pretty sharp person, also you're probably responsible for at least a half dozen osha's reps nervous break downs😅
Mike, I'm confused! You have the Bluettiac300 connected to a 100 Amp Phase Box running the lights in the shed. Your trying to connect a heater to the Bluettiac300. Why not connect the heater to the 100Amp Phase box. Put in a breaker switch, connect the wires, flip on the breaker switch, and your done! Why try and connect it back to the Bluettiaic300? Let's go a little Simpler, A to B and B to everything else! I know, let's spend more money on cables we don't need! 🙄🙄 Time to think on-Grid using Off-Grid power!
The heater runs on 12 volt, the bluetti has a 12 volt port. To run off the panel I would have to purchase an additional power converter
I think they ripped you off by not providing a power cord that plugs into a 110 outlet!! It's like you need a laptop power supply!
P=I X E you have to have some current flow before you can make watts.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video as always, thanks Mike 👍😁🇬🇧🇺🇸
Thank you!
To bad they didn't send you the solar panel with the blue etti. I think mine is 180 watts. I know ecoflow had a 200+ panel. I also watched a video, on TH-cam, no doubt. Said harbor freight 100 watt panels did well against the high price ones.
I have solar and I’m pretty happy with it. Really nice to not have to bend over on the regular for the utility company.
Are your panels facing south or west? North or east won’t generate as much power.
Good morning sunshine! Is there anything you don't know how to do Capt? Lol! I love watching your videos! Much love from Henderson Ga USA
Thanks for watching!
hello Mike & it's is Randy and i like yours video cool & Thanks Mike Friends Randy
Thanks randy
Hi HI Captain. Greetings from Jamaica 🇯🇲. Wow, 😊😊you are our Magiver
💪
I know it's a dumb observation moment butt either spray foam a couple inches thick or so metal building insulation or 2 inch foam boards something because you will just waste sooo much heat tin doesn't trap heat very well but you also live in Indiana yall barely hit single digits but no insulation here in newhampsire the cold elseeps in fast than a heater especially one that can produce btus
The thing might need the battery warmer to accept more charge rate. Lithium can be damaged by charging when too cold. The system might have a battery temperature sensor to protect the battery.
It will say if it's not accepting
I hate doing offsets with tiny little pieces of conduit like that. (Im okay with cutting one off the end of a length)
Youre obviously much better sparky than me. 😂
I'd just buy a box offset if i had to work with scrap.
Definitely had some bad bends lol
@@CaptainKleeman That one 0iece you stuck through the roof was _AWESOME!_. 😆
I just wanted you to know that it is a 'Blue Eddie'. At least that is what the auto translator says.
The translator comes up with different names depending on your accent. :)
Just in time to harvest that moonlight. Lol.
🤣
This is the power supply from Amazon I have been running my heater on cost 20 bucks
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Computer Project, 3D Printer
Good video, as usual.
Thanks!
U R 2 good, whatever U do. Thanks.
Appreciate ya watching!
What is the brand of that cordless heat gun that can use 20 volt DeWalt batts ? Or even a link to where I can buy it
A lot of the solar chargers I’ve come across require a minimum amount of voltage before they will recognize the panels. That maybe what’s going on or I might be completely wrong idk lol
Always entertaining....
Use one of the heater coils out of one of the trucks. See if that works
Good idea
Interesting video, thank you for that, we will see you on the next one❤
Appreciate ya watching!