Enhance Your QR Codes with 3D Printing!

Generate a 3D printed QR code to add an extra flare to your linked content!
Walkthrough tutorial on how to generate a QR code, export it as a vector, create a 3D model from it, and finally slice it for 3D printing.
The softwares featured include Fusion360 and Bambu Lab Slicer, but similar methods can be used for others as well.
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[@SkalliEventsProductions]

This is great info, my office loves their new 3D plaque!

[@3dtwerking324]

I find the bamboo paint a bit of a bear to get layers right and to reduce the probability of errors so I use fusion slightly different. If you extrude in fusion to a new body for each color you can extrude thickness based on how many layers you want this item/color to be. For example if I'm printing at 0.2 layer height and I want 3 layers I extrude 0.6 in fusion. As I extrude I get multiple bodies so I name these bodies with the color I intend. Then save the model as 3mf or I think step works. When you import the model into bamboo if gives you the bodies as objects where you can select what spool # you want to each body. This ensures the bodies are fully colored to the intended depth you want.
This allows for taylored effects like transparent blues/reds you may need 6 layers to get a 3D effect where whites may need 3 layers if on a dark and dark may need 1 or 2 layers if on a light.
This model however may be a bit much for this method as all the dots will become a lot of bodies making a significant number of bodies to work with, may overwhelm bamboo. I'm not sure if there is a limit in bamboo.
In this model I would extrude the frame 3 layers in the negative then the dots 6 layers in the positive (black). Then I would extrude the negative space 3 layers in the positive (white). This would place all the black in 1 single body with the dots/logo attached. The white would be a 2nd body. I would rename the frame body as Black01 and the negative space body as White01-White08. In Bamboo it would take about 10 seconds to set the 9 objects colors. The text/logos below would be a few bodies to simplify the model for coloring or selecting filament slots. It would print slightly slower due to the black dots passing through the white but greatly simplify it while reducing possible oopsies/reprints.

[@bonovoxel7527]

To avoid that, in my usual designing these "business cards" i do reverse print'em.
Since he said he wants it face up, it can be done, but if having the leaning dots in a sort of Braille style which I can get it might look more cool, well if this "touchy" feature isn't mandatory, I'll print 2 layers or 3 of black, then black frame with a green frame and a grey one, then over it all the white it takes to leave out the writings and dots.
This way yes, the dots and writing are engraved not embossed, but... You're minimizing color swaps (you can even print the colors as separate objects and selecting "print objects in order" instead of "layer by layer" since they're 0,6mm thick at most..)
But more importantly this way you only interact with a white matrix with a lot of pinholes, instead than a black one with the singular pins.
TBH you'll never have nor be able to select them, since they're void, not material. ;)