just bought an s8; was gonna take a look into these same parts myself to clean em out but couldn’t find anyone talking about how to actually do it. forever grateful for ya lol
Finished yesterday the DIY Repair as you showed in the video, and I only can agree on everything you´ve done! I watched your video about 20x till I had everything in my mind, and even then watched beside. Flaps are our, Idle is fine. A bit less torque in the lower RPM, but tremendous sound even in lower RPM! On the upside though, it feels better on 3000+ RPM. Car runs smooth, no issues, no check engine at all. Keep it up man ;)
You did a great job here! It is very hard to find a detailed video of the internals of this as well as the 4.2L Magnesium intake manifold ; especially in a failing condition. Thanks again!
Recently bought a S8, seems like the same engine. Guys like you make´s our live´s easier man. Much apreciation from Austria here. I hear this clapping sounds while in "P" and pressing the gas up to 3k *clapclapclapclap* So I mostlikely have to do the same as it seems. Cheers!
@@EndlessMotorWorks I agree with you there, unless the e60 in question is a six speed. The M156 guys aren't ready for this convo though.... eaten camshafts, wobbly cam adjusters, cracked intake manifolds, pcv valve at the rear of the motor ....lol 😄
Great video! The internet and video platform like youtube have given the citizen of the world freedom and liberty when it comes to DIYers! No more being slaves to companies and greedy people!Very good Detailed video.also i would like to add having another pair of hands to help makes a huge difference!friends neighbours etc helps!
my front lever is broken what does this do to the car, will I lose power, can I glue that part back in ? if it’s not as broken just loose and use gasket maker or should I plug it with a bolt ?
I know you kinda explained I just want reassurance because I don’t know what to do with mine now my idle isn’t as loud or strong i guess maybe anymore since it came out but it comes and goes I glued it back in kinda my best to my ability but how much power will I lose if i even do? will a tune help
12:30 same thing happened on mine. Old owner glued it back together. Big mistake, that’s the brake booster line. If it falls apart while you drive then you lose the brakes and create a huge vacuum leak to the point where it can barely idle. Get a new one, much safer.
I wouldn't be too worried about that as it is glued from the factory as well. Mine has always had the tendency to come apart, but I always just snap it back together. Because vacuum is pulled through the check valve, the contraption can't rally come apart on its own, while driving though. The negative pressure is pulling it tightly together. What can happen and had this happen on mine is, if I mess with engine, knock it loose and then go to start the car, it will run poorly at idle. All it requires is to be snapped back into place. If you epoxy it or put some RTV on the seam, this would be a permanent fix.
He sounds to get slowly more depressed as the video goes on 😂 I feel you brother. We all hate doing tedious work on Audi vehicles until we floor it and all our hatred goes away.
Yeah it was as big job and quite tedious at that. Still, the worst I have done on the S6 was redoing the wiring looms inside of the the headlights. That was a nightmare.
@@EndlessMotorWorksI respect that you did this tough job by yourself on the side of the road, and recorded and documented the whole thing. Us S6 owners appreciate you
Great video. I've pulled the IM twice on that engine. Recently gutted my flappers and even with the actuator in place, but not attached like you have in the video, I still get CEL flapper code. Could it be the actuator that runs via RPM was damaged itself and would need to be replaced alone?
Honestly, it could be anything. With the actuator unplugged I got a CEL, once I put it back in and reconnected it the CEL went away immediately. I would scan for errors with VCDS and see what is what. The actuator itself could be bad, or perhaps something else. These cars have so much electronics that unless you scan it there really is no way of knowing for sure what the problem is.
Hey, I am looking for the high fuel pressure sensor I see you found the low one on the left side when looking at it on the fuel rail line. Maybe the high fuel pressure sensor is next to the tank or closer down to the car?
@43:27 those intake manifold partitions do you know what the function of these are? (Apart from saving your motor lol) I've carbon cleaned my 4.2L but stupidly in my haste somehow forgot to slot them back in 😑 could I get away with leaving them out? Great job btw 👍
These metal inserts are called baffle plates and work in conjunction with the tumble flaps (lower intake flaps). They help with torque in the lower-end of the rev range. The section below is from the official Audi documentation applies for all variations of the 5.2 V10 FSI engine (A6, A8 and R8): "Like the variable inlet manifold, the intake manifold flaps are map-controlled in both engine variants. The intake manifold flaps in both engines are activated at the bottom end of engine load and speed ranges. They are brought into abutment with the baffle plates in the cylinder head and thereby close of the bottom section of the intake port. The induced air mass now flows through the upper section of the intake port and creates a tumbling charge motion within the cylinder. The intake manifold flaps are open while inactive, cross-sectionAll flaps in a cylinder bank are attached to a common shaft."
@@EndlessMotorWorks oh awesome, I ended up taking the intake manifold off again and put the plates back for peace of mind sounds like I made the right call, can't get too much practice with taking that manifold off 🤷🏽♂️ thanks heaps for that information cool to know
amazing step by step, many thanks. one question I have, how did you tighten the 17mm fuel line on the left of the intake. I couldn't get the intake in place with the pipe in place and with the inlet in place, I can't get to it to tighten it up.
Good question and something I really missed showing in the video. The key here is to use a crows foot wrench. Three simply is no other way of tightening the fitting back up.
Bro I understand fixing it on the driveway but please just put a piece of cardboard under the intake not on the road. Got to respect these cars. As a mechanic this makes me cry
If I had to do it again, I would definitely put something underneath the manifold. I just was so focused on actually doing the work that I completely spaced out.
Did you crank the engine while having the i intake manifold off? Half of the cilindres valves will be closed and the others open. Or did you crank it by hand?
Crank by hand, always! Never try to run the engine this way. In order to remove the intake you will have fuel lines and high-pressure pumps disconnected. Not only will you get a multitude of errors on the dash, you will also soak the engine in fuel.
@@jose15238 There is a special VAG tool, but I can't seem to find the exact part number. In my case I used a long and thin pry bar. Not sure if it will also work on a R8, due to space limitations.
Good question, something I didn't explicitly explain in the video. There are two options to go about it. The correct way is to disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank over the engine a couple of times. This will remove all of the fuel that is in the pipes and the pumps. The other easier way (what I ended up doing) was simply cracking open the fittings for the return lines (the fatter ones). I put a rag underneath them and let the excess fuel simply come out. Note that this really only works if the car has been sitting for a while and the system is not primed, otherwise too much fuel will come out.
Fantastic video! My S6 is currently running terribly a d I suspect the inlet is to blame. I'm a total novice but 8 think I'm going to give it a shot. Did you need to seal the inlet after you'd split it? Is it just bolted together or is there some sort of sealant between the 2 halves? Cheers man!
I do not recommend removing these without doing a custom ecu flash after. Check the second paragraph from the "Intake, manifold flaps and variable intake manifold" section in this article. There is a more technical explanation, but I cannot link the actual Audi documentation here.
Not super sure what you are referring to by hooks or tendons. Some further clarification will be necessary in order for me to answer your question. Sorry about that. :)
Hi nice video. I have an s6 v10 i get misifre code and i have already changed the ignition coile and the spark plug on it but still the same problem. When i delete the codes sometimes the car is driving very good but When the engine light comes on the car starts shaking and not going properly. When i press the gas it seems like the car starts to goo smoth again but When i release it i gets bad again. Do you have any idea where the problem is? When i check with computer it says misfire cylinder 6,7 but after a while of driving even other cylinders gets misifre code
@@EndlessMotorWorks thanks for your quick response, is the only way to clean it by opening the intake manifold as you showed in the video or can i fix it in some other way?
Thanks for your detailed video!!! It's finally a step by step disassembly of the intake manifold!! Very happy!! How did you manage the carbon cleaning at the valves that were in opening position?
On mine I had all but three valve sets closed, so this made it exceptionally easy. Once the set of seven was cleaned, I rotated the engine in order to get to the last three ports. With everything off, you can kind of see the crankshaft. There is a special VAG tool for this job, but you can get away with using a long and relatively thin prybar.
Another guy to look up is gregg b on you tube that guy is audi king. Trust me audi king. He fixed his night and day difference with working intake vs flap delete. If you look up intake flap clean he has a vid but does the whole engine tear down on vid complete engine teardown and rebuild ask him his opinion once.
I have seen his videos. What he is saying is correct, but I think there is some general misconception going on regarding the upper intake manifold flaps delete and the impact it has, which brought by not fully understanding that there is a difference between torque and kw. At the very least this is my observation from what I have seen over and over again throughout all of the different Audi forums when doing my research for this video.
That's a very good question. I used a lot of patience swearing and after that I bought a crows foot socket. Was able to tighten them back up in a minute. The right tool makes a world of difference. :)
Имам въпрос , същия двигател премахнах клапите като при теб но от тогава постоянно имам misfires и дроселите ми забиват постоянно и влиза в авариен режим също така се появи грешка за налягането на горивото , с две думи колата стана мн трудна за каране
Премахването на клапите няма общо с дроселите и missfires. Ако актуатурите останат включени компютъра няма да разбере че са премахнати. Тези двигатели по принцип имат проблеми с дроселите (спонтанно загиват), както с горивните помпи за високо налягане и с инжекторите. Трябва да се прочетат конкретните грешки, без това няма как да станат нещата.
Hey there thanks for the video , I have an s8 I'm working in and it just went into limp mode and threw a check-sum error code for ecu 2 , I have got a donor vehicle and swapped ECUs , put new plugs , new coils but nothing seems to work , have you ever encountered this?
I never did get the vehicle dynoed so I can't say exactly how much torque was lost. That being said, I don't really feel any difference from the before and after.
Hey bro I’m adding intake spacer to my s6, but I’m kinda new to the mechanic stuff lol, should I do a flap delete as well? Also I’m swapping out the ignition coils for apr coils I’m having trouble with the back 4 as there blocked by the coolant tank and I think the tank for the steering fluid you have any suggestions on how to make enough space to pull them out
If you are taking the intake manifold already, you can do a flap delete then and there. It is just a no brainer, considering you are taking it out anyway. Regarding the coils, if I remember correctly you will need to completely remove the coolant expansion tank. I have a video on how to do that, not especially time consuming, takes about 30min or less. On the driver's side the power steering reservoir is in the way as well, but that you can just unmount from the bracket and wiggle it around in order to make room, no need to take it out completely.
No, you can drive it as is. I never got mine remapped and it has been fine. No CEL, no other issues. Will a remap be better? - Absolutely, but it is not essential.
As you can see from the video, I used a variety of picks and metal brushes in combination with a strong solvents, such as break cleaner and throttle body cleaner. Just make sure that the valves you are cleaning are completely closed, otherwise all of the solvents and carbon will go into the cylinder and potentially damage it when you go start the vehicle.
Hey I don't know if you still respond to these comments but the little clips for the motor arms broke when I removed them, what exactly are these called and/or where could I find them?
Does changing the flaps will fix them? I am planning to buy 2008 /S8 V10 done 58,000 km in Dubai And I don’t know if should I go with it or not what do you recommend?
There is no changing the flaps, they are not sold separately. You will need to buy the entire intake manifold. The S8 generally is a nice car, but expect it to have more electrical issues than the S6. Also accessing some stuff in the engine bay is more difficult on the S8 than an S6
Pretty much. Of course you will need to seal everything back up and plug up the gaping hole in the front of the manifold where the actuator controls the flaps. Otherwise you will get a massive vacuum leak, like I had in the beginning of the video.
just done the carbon clean and flap delete takes ages to start but when it dose it idles nice but has like a massive misfire when revving it huge loss of power
If it idles smooth, then it probably isn't a vacuum leak, but there are lots of other things that can cause this though - faulty fuel pumps, ignition issues, a problem with the MAF, stuck throttle body. All of these are common on the V8 FSI and V10 FSI from this generation. You will need to scan it for errors in order to get more precise info.
Haven't felt any difference. However, my flaps were already quite broken and probably causing excessive turbulence inside the intake. Therefore, if anything removing them has probably resulted in gaining some power back.
Great video thanks for sharing your experience. I’m thinking about doing something similar. How have you found the performance of the car and are you planning on having it custom tuned to improve the torque? Thanks, Rich
Thanks mate, glad you found it helpful! Performance is quite good, about the same as before I might say. I can't really feel anything being significantly different. Still, after the flap delete now I can actually get the car to shake when revved up, like those old American muscle cars. Not sure if it has anything to do with that, but I noticed after completing the job. Regarding, having it professionally tuned, probably later this year. I am currently chasing down some weird issues with the cooling system, which will probably take about a month to be resolved. Until that is fixed, I won't be pushing the car too much.
At the back of the engine, on the driver's side. It is one of the things I remove in the beginning of the video. I have also another video specifically on the PCV system of the Audi S6. You can check that one for more details.
@@EndlessMotorWorks thank you man. I'm having misfires replaced coils with oem ones and spark plugs and still get random multiple cylinder misfires. I believe the pcv valve is causing it 120k miles.
@@Ivan-hx7cc I will need some more info before being able to answer that. When you say misfires, do you actually mean misfires, as you had the car checked with VCDS and you got error codes for it? Or, are you getting just an overall rough idle?
@@Ivan-hx7cc When the PCV itself goes bad it makes a characteristic whistling sound when the engine is up to operating temperature and there is excessive smoke coming from the tailpipes. These vehicles do have issues with the PCV hoses, which are originally made from plastic and tend to disintegrate causing unmetered air to go into the engine. Can certainly trigger misfire codes. Do you have lights on the dashboard - CEL or EPS light?
Sorry mate, but I don't really do stuff like that. If have any questions you can put them in the comment section and I will answer them to the best of my ability. :)
It is smart to get them out they can break off and destroy your engine. That would suck. I seen many get caught in the valves and wreck engines and or heads.
If watched the video till the end you will see that this is what I found out. A piece holding the flaps to the intake had broken off an had wedged itself into one of the intake valves not allowing it to open and close all the way. I consider my self lucky the piece was big enough not to inside the engine cause catastrophic failure.
@Endless MotorWorks i seen that. Well my audi is down ecp light came on it has a miss that got worse it sounded like a crap coil and plug. Hopefully its nothing crazy. Im ready to get a new intake but need to tear it down first to make sure there is no damage. How does yours run with a delete done. As finiky as audis are id think it would throw crazy codes. My oxygen senseor bank one sensor one is shot Hopefully that can be done without yanking the engine.some o2 i here you have to yank the motor just to get to the harnesses and sensors. Kinda bummed right now. I will keep you up to date on whats done. Many codes came up so ill start with the most common crap. I know the intak flaps are broke you xan here them . Son of a gun is all i can say. I love my car its super super clean.
@@RICHIE_RICH89 may I ask how you can hear the broken intake flaps. Is this the rattling sounds you can hear at about 2000 rpm when quickly pushing the gas pedal when stationary.
Like I have explained in the video, the flaps don't really have anything to do with idle and cold starts. The only time these upper flaps make a difference is under high load, for example full throttle and up in the rev-range. If your car isn't running right and has an unstable idle then there is something else going on with it, most probably a vacuum leak somewhere. Considering how many sensors these cars have you will absolutely need to hook it up to a VCDS and get it scanned. Checking the live data might not be such a bad idea as well, but for that you will need to know what to look for, as otherwise it is just a bunch of numbers and values, which will mean nothing.
Приятелю имам S8 V10 и естествено с същия проблем и се побърквам, можеж ли да ми помогнеш имам 1-2 въпроса. Въждам ,че си на вътре с нещата и моля те помогни ми :) Въпроса ми е ; трябва ли да примахна и тези моторчета който отварят и затварят разни работи там... ( не ги разбирам ) защото такаилиначе са заседнали компа дава грешка stuck at closed position. Ходих Madness Motosport и ми казаха да примахна абслютно всичко да се изкорми и да се затвори хубаво да не издишва от никъде и да ходя пак при тях за software.. Малко дълго стана но ВЪПРОСА Е: ТРЯБВА ЛИ ДА ПРИМАХНА освен flaps и това металното където отваря и затваря отстрани къето е моторчето. - Много благодаря предварително !!!
Здрасти, отговора ми е, че зависи. Аз лично го махнах това моторче дето е отпреде, но после го сложих обратно защото даваше грешка. Моето моторче обаче работеше и реално грешката в компа дойде от това, че е свалено. Щом при теб самото моторче е стегнало багажа, махкай го и иди да ти я кодират за да не ти дава грешка. Що се отнася за другитедве моторчета, дето са от всяка страна, аз лично не бих ги премахвал ако работят. Ако ги махнеш тях, трябва да се махнат и металните разделители над клапаните и 100про ще трябва да се мапне защото иначе мотора няма да се държи добре на празен ход. Но ако ще се мапва така или иначе не мисля, че ще има значение. В Madness си занчт нещата, така че вслушай се в съветите им. Едва ли е първия 5.2 V10 FSI дето правят. :)
@@KanunvekaosОт миналата година по това време до сега е карана около 1000км, че даже и по малко. В момента пътищата ни са твърде лоши за такава кола. И магистралите са занемарени... няма какво да ти разправям, знаеш в нашата държава каква мизерия е :D
@@EndlessMotorWorksвопрос, что вы имели в виду говоря идите кодировать, на Audi S8 2007 после удаления верхних заслонок тоже висит ошибка по заслонкам , средний моторчик подключён, механик сказал что ошибка не удаляется, нужен какой то софт? Или просто расследовать проблему глубже и искать причину?
Unfortunately I am not a mechanic and don't have a garage. Just a regular dude, who is working on his own vehicles and making TH-cam videos in order to help other regular guys interested in working on their own cars.
@@EndlessMotorWorks hhmmmm I have the s8 v10 5.2 and what your doing in this video I believe the same thing is wrong with my manifold I have a loose motor
@@ihussain5335 On my vehicle the main issue was that it couldn't idle. As the flaps broke inside the manifold, this created a huge vacuum leak, causing the car not to run properly. However, if you suspect you have an issue with the flaps do the check that I did just to be sure. Remove the Y-shaped intake on top of the manifold, put you phone inside an make a photo. If you flaps are broken you will clearly be able to see it.
why does the intake manifold need to be so complicated, its no wonder it broke it has 10 moving parts inside of it. seems like kind of a dumb design to be since if something breaks you could get pieces inside the cylinders and possibly destroy that whole engine like what almost happened with this car, lucky the piece that broke off was kind of big
the idea behind it was to maximize torque regardless of where one is in the rev range. However, with time the plastic disintegrates and does become a ticking time bomb for the engine. I was lucky the piece that got jammed into the valve opening was just big enough not to be able to find its way into the combustion chamber. If it had, it would have been game over for this engine.
Because it’s an Italian designed engine in a German car… over complicated parts make this engine a ticking time bomb.. I’d rather have the W12. Which I had in the D3. amazing engine, just thirsty.
New intake is way way better idea you lose so much power without flaps im telling you removing them make you lose major power it switches from a low rise intake to a high rise . One bottom end power second high end power. People do this all the time and have 0 clue on the power loss from doing this. Buy a new intake trust me.
Idk man, I have seen the numbers on a 4.2 FSI with the flaps deleted and then with a new manifold on. After several dyno runs the difference was about 20-30kW. I know that this is on a V8, but considering how much more power the V10 has even if there is a loss of 30kW, I am not so sure anyone who drives the car normally will ever notice this.
@@EndlessMotorWorks You ll notice way more than 30kw. Its not about peak power, peak power is what you ll never notice. These variable intake are for low and mide range torque and torque is really something you'll feel. You do what you can, but cant call that just as good. Cars have had dual lenght runners since the 90s and it was a game changer in midrange torque figures without sacrifying top end power. Thank for showing your experience with us and Ill be sure to share mine as well. The intake is 2500 $ at the dealership. It's a V10, got to pay exotic price to keep it going.
@@Nordic_Mechanic you will gain power doing a delete over broken flaps thats for sure butfor all out pwer a new intake is a good idea . I found a audi dealer that has them for 2 k i gotta do mine it pisses me off my car is by far the cleanest s6 ive seen to date . Im hoping to fix it soon. Cool vid though it will help people. If you do the delete jhm makes a map tune to hold torque flaps open the rest you yank out.
@@Nordic_Mechanic i have a lot of experience with audis. Been working on them for audi for 20yrs now going on 21 . The new ones are very very hard to work on. Anyways talk to jhm tuning they will school you fast on this. Not dissing what your doing if you dont have the money id do the same . One thing i wouldnt do is disconnect the sensors. It will throw the computer all over the place . Leve them hooked up and disconnect the arms if needed.
I have never said that it will be exactly as having the flaps fully functional. If you want full potential, there are brand new intake manifolds being sold from Pierburg for the low price of $3500-4000 before installation. What I am showing is that even without the flaps the vehicle will idle and run just fine. Will it be 15-20hp short? - Perhaps, I haven't gotten around to testing dynoing it, but you also save a ton of money and it's not like anyone is actually tracking a vehicle like this in order to feel the difference in a day-to-day commute.
@@akane742 Probably yes, but I am not sure how strong 3D printed flaps will be. Last thing you want is for them to disintegrate inside of the manifold and pieces getting sucked into the valves and the combustion chamber.
just bought an s8; was gonna take a look into these same parts myself to clean em out but couldn’t find anyone talking about how to actually do it.
forever grateful for ya lol
Thanks mate. Appreciated!
Finished yesterday the DIY Repair as you showed in the video, and I only can agree on everything you´ve done! I watched your video about 20x till I had everything in my mind, and even then watched beside. Flaps are our, Idle is fine. A bit less torque in the lower RPM, but tremendous sound even in lower RPM! On the upside though, it feels better on 3000+ RPM. Car runs smooth, no issues, no check engine at all. Keep it up man ;)
Thanks for the feedback! I happy to hear you managed to do the same procedure by following the video.
You did a great job here! It is very hard to find a detailed video of the internals of this as well as the 4.2L Magnesium intake manifold ; especially in a failing condition. Thanks again!
Thanks! I am glad the video was helpful to you. :)
Recently bought a S8, seems like the same engine. Guys like you make´s our live´s easier man. Much apreciation from Austria here. I hear this clapping sounds while in "P" and pressing the gas up to 3k *clapclapclapclap* So I mostlikely have to do the same as it seems. Cheers!
Yeah, it definitely seems that the manifold flaps have started to break down. I am happy to hear that you found the video helpful
@@EndlessMotorWorks thanks a lot man. Did you have any issues after removing them? Anything that would be good to know?
@@marselbejko1989 No issues whatsoever that will stem from the removal of the flaps.
@@EndlessMotorWorks thanks for keeping up the flow of information for the community. God bless patient people like you.
@@marselbejko1989 Thanks
I want one of these, but these issues are scary lol! Great vid
Compared to other high-performance vehicles of this era like the E60 M5 and the C63 AMG, the Audi S6 is the most reliable and easiest to work on.
@@EndlessMotorWorks I agree with you there, unless the e60 in question is a six speed. The M156 guys aren't ready for this convo though.... eaten camshafts, wobbly cam adjusters, cracked intake manifolds, pcv valve at the rear of the motor ....lol 😄
Bonjour,
Esque tu a le voyant moteur allumé depuis la réparation ?
If the job is completed properly and there are no other issues with the car, the check engine light will not be on.
Great video! The internet and video platform like youtube have given the citizen of the world freedom and liberty when it comes to DIYers! No more being slaves to companies and greedy people!Very good Detailed video.also i would like to add having another pair of hands to help makes a huge difference!friends neighbours etc helps!
Thanks for the kind words! It certainly feels nice to have people appreciative of the information provided in the videos. :)
my front lever is broken what does this do to the car, will I lose power, can I glue that part back in ? if it’s not as broken just loose and use gasket maker or should I plug it with a bolt ?
I know you kinda explained I just want reassurance because I don’t know what to do with mine now my idle isn’t as loud or strong i guess maybe anymore since it came out but it comes and goes I glued it back in kinda my best to my ability but how much power will I lose if i even do? will a tune help
12:30 same thing happened on mine. Old owner glued it back together. Big mistake, that’s the brake booster line. If it falls apart while you drive then you lose the brakes and create a huge vacuum leak to the point where it can barely idle. Get a new one, much safer.
I wouldn't be too worried about that as it is glued from the factory as well. Mine has always had the tendency to come apart, but I always just snap it back together. Because vacuum is pulled through the check valve, the contraption can't rally come apart on its own, while driving though. The negative pressure is pulling it tightly together. What can happen and had this happen on mine is, if I mess with engine, knock it loose and then go to start the car, it will run poorly at idle. All it requires is to be snapped back into place. If you epoxy it or put some RTV on the seam, this would be a permanent fix.
If I didn’t stumble pass yr vid bro, I would think it was toast for me an my s6, toast to y bro🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥💪🏾
Thanks!
He sounds to get slowly more depressed as the video goes on 😂 I feel you brother. We all hate doing tedious work on Audi vehicles until we floor it and all our hatred goes away.
Yeah it was as big job and quite tedious at that. Still, the worst I have done on the S6 was redoing the wiring looms inside of the the headlights. That was a nightmare.
@@EndlessMotorWorksI respect that you did this tough job by yourself on the side of the road, and recorded and documented the whole thing. Us S6 owners appreciate you
@@riot840 Thanks!
Great video. I've pulled the IM twice on that engine. Recently gutted my flappers and even with the actuator in place, but not attached like you have in the video, I still get CEL flapper code. Could it be the actuator that runs via RPM was damaged itself and would need to be replaced alone?
Honestly, it could be anything. With the actuator unplugged I got a CEL, once I put it back in and reconnected it the CEL went away immediately. I would scan for errors with VCDS and see what is what. The actuator itself could be bad, or perhaps something else. These cars have so much electronics that unless you scan it there really is no way of knowing for sure what the problem is.
Hey, I am looking for the high fuel pressure sensor I see you found the low one on the left side when looking at it on the fuel rail line. Maybe the high fuel pressure sensor is next to the tank or closer down to the car?
Not sure tbh. As far as I know it is only this one.
What is the torque sequential bolt pattern for the valve cover gaskets please help!!!!
Start from the middle and work towards the outside.
@43:27 those intake manifold partitions do you know what the function of these are? (Apart from saving your motor lol) I've carbon cleaned my 4.2L but stupidly in my haste somehow forgot to slot them back in 😑 could I get away with leaving them out? Great job btw 👍
These metal inserts are called baffle plates and work in conjunction with the tumble flaps (lower intake flaps). They help with torque in the lower-end of the rev range. The section below is from the official Audi documentation applies for all variations of the 5.2 V10 FSI engine (A6, A8 and R8):
"Like the variable inlet manifold, the intake manifold
flaps are map-controlled in both engine variants. The intake manifold flaps in both engines are activated at the bottom end of engine load and speed ranges.
They are brought into abutment with the baffle
plates in the cylinder head and thereby close of the
bottom section of the intake port. The induced air mass now flows through the upper section of the intake port and creates a tumbling charge motion within the cylinder.
The intake manifold flaps are open while inactive,
cross-sectionAll flaps in a cylinder bank are attached to a common shaft."
@@EndlessMotorWorks oh awesome, I ended up taking the intake manifold off again and put the plates back for peace of mind sounds like I made the right call, can't get too much practice with taking that manifold off 🤷🏽♂️ thanks heaps for that information cool to know
@@joshuahallam4012 Thanks!
amazing step by step, many thanks. one question I have, how did you tighten the 17mm fuel line on the left of the intake. I couldn't get the intake in place with the pipe in place and with the inlet in place, I can't get to it to tighten it up.
Good question and something I really missed showing in the video. The key here is to use a crows foot wrench. Three simply is no other way of tightening the fitting back up.
How did you keep foreign objects from going past the valves while
Rotate the engine by hand and work only on the ports with the closed off valves.
Bro I understand fixing it on the driveway but please just put a piece of cardboard under the intake not on the road. Got to respect these cars. As a mechanic this makes me cry
If I had to do it again, I would definitely put something underneath the manifold. I just was so focused on actually doing the work that I completely spaced out.
14:33. "Be careful with your candy"! (:p thanks for the video! It really is endless isn't it. (:p
I am happy you found the video informative! :)
Very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Did you crank the engine while having the i intake manifold off? Half of the cilindres valves will be closed and the others open. Or did you crank it by hand?
Crank by hand, always! Never try to run the engine this way. In order to remove the intake you will have fuel lines and high-pressure pumps disconnected. Not only will you get a multitude of errors on the dash, you will also soak the engine in fuel.
@@EndlessMotorWorks do i need a special tool to turn the engine by hand?
Ill be doing it on a v10 r8 gen 1.
@@jose15238 There is a special VAG tool, but
I can't seem to find the exact part number. In my case I used a long and thin pry bar. Not sure if it will also work on a R8, due to space limitations.
hi, i also have S6 5.2 and i want to do the same like you but i dont understend one thing, how you disconnect the HPFP? when is there high pressure.
Good question, something I didn't explicitly explain in the video. There are two options to go about it. The correct way is to disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank over the engine a couple of times. This will remove all of the fuel that is in the pipes and the pumps. The other easier way (what I ended up doing) was simply cracking open the fittings for the return lines (the fatter ones). I put a rag underneath them and let the excess fuel simply come out. Note that this really only works if the car has been sitting for a while and the system is not primed, otherwise too much fuel will come out.
@@EndlessMotorWorks how long you think the car has to sit around before the pressure has come down to a save pressure
Fantastic video! My S6 is currently running terribly a d I suspect the inlet is to blame. I'm a total novice but 8 think I'm going to give it a shot. Did you need to seal the inlet after you'd split it? Is it just bolted together or is there some sort of sealant between the 2 halves?
Cheers man!
Thanks! The manifold is both bolted and sealed. I used high temperature gasket maker.
Did you put gasket maker on the top of the metal insert within the manifold? Mine has rubber/gasket that is falling apart on top of those ridges.
Yes, I did.
@Endless MotorWorks Thank you for the confirmation/response good sir!
@@rpk2012 Thank you for watching my video! :)
And, do you recommend deleting the intake port spacers? (those metal plates) and what are the pro's/con's of also removing the thumble flaps?
I do not recommend removing these without doing a custom ecu flash after. Check the second paragraph from the "Intake, manifold flaps and variable intake manifold" section in this article. There is a more technical explanation, but I cannot link the actual Audi documentation here.
Hi
Did the metal partitions have to stay ?
Whether the metal hooks on both sides stay in the collector ?
How are the tendons on both sides connected ?
Not super sure what you are referring to by hooks or tendons. Some further clarification will be necessary in order for me to answer your question. Sorry about that. :)
Hi nice video. I have an s6 v10 i get misifre code and i have already changed the ignition coile and the spark plug on it but still the same problem. When i delete the codes sometimes the car is driving very good but When the engine light comes on the car starts shaking and not going properly. When i press the gas it seems like the car starts to goo smoth again but When i release it i gets bad again. Do you have any idea where the problem is? When i check with computer it says misfire cylinder 6,7 but after a while of driving even other cylinders gets misifre code
Most probably the issue is carbon buildup. The direct injection engines are notorious for those.
@@EndlessMotorWorks thanks for your quick response, is the only way to clean it by opening the intake manifold as you showed in the video or can i fix it in some other way?
Thanks for your detailed video!!! It's finally a step by step disassembly of the intake manifold!! Very happy!!
How did you manage the carbon cleaning at the valves that were in opening position?
On mine I had all but three valve sets closed, so this made it exceptionally easy. Once the set of seven was cleaned, I rotated the engine in order to get to the last three ports. With everything off, you can kind of see the crankshaft. There is a special VAG tool for this job, but you can get away with using a long and relatively thin prybar.
Another guy to look up is gregg b on you tube that guy is audi king. Trust me audi king. He fixed his night and day difference with working intake vs flap delete. If you look up intake flap clean he has a vid but does the whole engine tear down on vid complete engine teardown and rebuild ask him his opinion once.
I have seen his videos. What he is saying is correct, but I think there is some general misconception going on regarding the upper intake manifold flaps delete and the impact it has, which brought by not fully understanding that there is a difference between torque and kw. At the very least this is my observation from what I have seen over and over again throughout all of the different Audi forums when doing my research for this video.
I searched all of TH-cam but was unfortunately not able to find anything Audi related under the name gregg b
@@eco_logic Checked just now as well. The videos are nowhere to be found at the moment. Deleted or made private.
@@EndlessMotorWorks the name is greg b with one g. If you type greg b audi his vids will come up I saved them as favorites.
@@eco_logic the name is greg b with one g. If you type greg b audi his vids will come up I saved them as favorites.
How did you tighten up the fuel pressure pipes back up while the manifold is in place ther just no space
That's a very good question. I used a lot of patience swearing and after that I bought a crows foot socket. Was able to tighten them back up in a minute. The right tool makes a world of difference. :)
Audi really should of recalled there intakes in the first place.
This I agree with, but they haven't and probably never will.
@@EndlessMotorWorks yup it sucks people need to complain. Very cool car.
Имам въпрос , същия двигател премахнах клапите като при теб но от тогава постоянно имам misfires и дроселите ми забиват постоянно и влиза в авариен режим също така се появи грешка за налягането на горивото , с две думи колата стана мн трудна за каране
Премахването на клапите няма общо с дроселите и missfires. Ако актуатурите останат включени компютъра няма да разбере че са премахнати.
Тези двигатели по принцип имат проблеми с дроселите (спонтанно загиват), както с горивните помпи за високо налягане и с инжекторите. Трябва да се прочетат конкретните грешки, без това няма как да станат нещата.
5.2 v10 audi timing video upload plz brother
I would love to do that, but I don't have a shop where to pull the engine out, do the timing chains and do the timing. Hopefully one day though. :)
Dope video tho helped me lot on how to remove everything
Glad to hear it! :)
27:11 what's the chime sound for? :D
I was filming with my phone and got a text message. :D
Did you disconnect the Batery before doing this job? Just asking out of curisousity.
No, battery wasn't disconnected, as there aren't any major electrical components being disconnected.
Thank you
You're welcome
Fantastic work.
Many thanks!
Hey there thanks for the video , I have an s8 I'm working in and it just went into limp mode and threw a check-sum error code for ecu 2 , I have got a donor vehicle and swapped ECUs , put new plugs , new coils but nothing seems to work , have you ever encountered this?
For the most part ECUs are coded for the specific vehicle. I would assume it will need to be re-coded for yours.
Hello, did you feel a massive torque loss after removing the flaps or did you not feel this at all? Thanks!
I never did get the vehicle dynoed so I can't say exactly how much torque was lost. That being said, I don't really feel any difference from the before and after.
Hey bro I’m adding intake spacer to my s6, but I’m kinda new to the mechanic stuff lol, should I do a flap delete as well? Also I’m swapping out the ignition coils for apr coils I’m having trouble with the back 4 as there blocked by the coolant tank and I think the tank for the steering fluid you have any suggestions on how to make enough space to pull them out
If you are taking the intake manifold already, you can do a flap delete then and there. It is just a no brainer, considering you are taking it out anyway. Regarding the coils, if I remember correctly you will need to completely remove the coolant expansion tank. I have a video on how to do that, not especially time consuming, takes about 30min or less. On the driver's side the power steering reservoir is in the way as well, but that you can just unmount from the bracket and wiggle it around in order to make room, no need to take it out completely.
Does the car need remapping? Where to get that from, no people seem to do these, these days.
No, you can drive it as is. I never got mine remapped and it has been fine. No CEL, no other issues. Will a remap be better? - Absolutely, but it is not essential.
How did you clean the carbon build up and what did you use to get all that mess out
As you can see from the video, I used a variety of picks and metal brushes in combination with a strong solvents, such as break cleaner and throttle body cleaner. Just make sure that the valves you are cleaning are completely closed, otherwise all of the solvents and carbon will go into the cylinder and potentially damage it when you go start the vehicle.
@@EndlessMotorWorks may I ask did you use a tool on the bolt in the middle of the crankshaft to turn around the engine?
Hey I don't know if you still respond to these comments but the little clips for the motor arms broke when I removed them, what exactly are these called and/or where could I find them?
Do you mean the clips for actuator motor arms that control the flaps?
Does changing the flaps will fix them?
I am planning to buy 2008 /S8 V10 done 58,000 km in Dubai
And I don’t know if should I go with it or not what do you recommend?
There is no changing the flaps, they are not sold separately. You will need to buy the entire intake manifold. The S8 generally is a nice car, but expect it to have more electrical issues than the S6. Also accessing some stuff in the engine bay is more difficult on the S8 than an S6
you just removed those plastics inside the intake manifold and that's it?
Pretty much. Of course you will need to seal everything back up and plug up the gaping hole in the front of the manifold where the actuator controls the flaps. Otherwise you will get a massive vacuum leak, like I had in the beginning of the video.
just done the carbon clean and flap delete takes ages to start but when it dose it idles nice but has like a massive misfire when revving it huge loss of power
If it idles smooth, then it probably isn't a vacuum leak, but there are lots of other things that can cause this though - faulty fuel pumps, ignition issues, a problem with the MAF, stuck throttle body. All of these are common on the V8 FSI and V10 FSI from this generation. You will need to scan it for errors in order to get more precise info.
@@EndlessMotorWorks I'll let you know for when other people have the same problem
@@EndlessMotorWorks hey bestest buddy is sensor g247 under the intake manifold
@@EndlessMotorWorksyes it is the plastic plug had broken off on g247
@@TheBoobieBandit1 The G247 is the fuel pressure sensor. It is not under the manifold, but rather it is located on the fuel rail.
Did u lose any power after you removed the flaps? Like did you feel any difference?
Haven't felt any difference. However, my flaps were already quite broken and probably causing excessive turbulence inside the intake. Therefore, if anything removing them has probably resulted in gaining some power back.
Great video thanks for sharing your experience. I’m thinking about doing something similar. How have you found the performance of the car and are you planning on having it custom tuned to improve the torque? Thanks, Rich
Thanks mate, glad you found it helpful! Performance is quite good, about the same as before I might say. I can't really feel anything being significantly different. Still, after the flap delete now I can actually get the car to shake when revved up, like those old American muscle cars. Not sure if it has anything to do with that, but I noticed after completing the job. Regarding, having it professionally tuned, probably later this year. I am currently chasing down some weird issues with the cooling system, which will probably take about a month to be resolved. Until that is fixed, I won't be pushing the car too much.
Where is the pcv valve on this. Motor i cant seem to find it anywhere
At the back of the engine, on the driver's side. It is one of the things I remove in the beginning of the video. I have also another video specifically on the PCV system of the Audi S6. You can check that one for more details.
@@EndlessMotorWorks thank you man. I'm having misfires replaced coils with oem ones and spark plugs and still get random multiple cylinder misfires. I believe the pcv valve is causing it 120k miles.
@@Ivan-hx7cc I will need some more info before being able to answer that. When you say misfires, do you actually mean misfires, as you had the car checked with VCDS and you got error codes for it? Or, are you getting just an overall rough idle?
@@EndlessMotorWorks checked obd11 live data misfires an all cylinders but i believe the pcv is bad
@@Ivan-hx7cc When the PCV itself goes bad it makes a characteristic whistling sound when the engine is up to operating temperature and there is excessive smoke coming from the tailpipes. These vehicles do have issues with the PCV hoses, which are originally made from plastic and tend to disintegrate causing unmetered air to go into the engine. Can certainly trigger misfire codes. Do you have lights on the dashboard - CEL or EPS light?
Bro I need ur help ASAP video call would be great
Sorry mate, but I don't really do stuff like that. If have any questions you can put them in the comment section and I will answer them to the best of my ability. :)
It is smart to get them out they can break off and destroy your engine. That would suck. I seen many get caught in the valves and wreck engines and or heads.
If watched the video till the end you will see that this is what I found out. A piece holding the flaps to the intake had broken off an had wedged itself into one of the intake valves not allowing it to open and close all the way. I consider my self lucky the piece was big enough not to inside the engine cause catastrophic failure.
@Endless MotorWorks i seen that. Well my audi is down ecp light came on it has a miss that got worse it sounded like a crap coil and plug. Hopefully its nothing crazy. Im ready to get a new intake but need to tear it down first to make sure there is no damage. How does yours run with a delete done. As finiky as audis are id think it would throw crazy codes. My oxygen senseor bank one sensor one is shot Hopefully that can be done without yanking the engine.some o2 i here you have to yank the motor just to get to the harnesses and sensors. Kinda bummed right now. I will keep you up to date on whats done. Many codes came up so ill start with the most common crap. I know the intak flaps are broke you xan here them . Son of a gun is all i can say. I love my car its super super clean.
@@RICHIE_RICH89 may I ask how you can hear the broken intake flaps. Is this the rattling sounds you can hear at about 2000 rpm when quickly pushing the gas pedal when stationary.
Hello,
I deleted my runner flaps now i have an unstable start
Like I have explained in the video, the flaps don't really have anything to do with idle and cold starts. The only time these upper flaps make a difference is under high load, for example full throttle and up in the rev-range. If your car isn't running right and has an unstable idle then there is something else going on with it, most probably a vacuum leak somewhere. Considering how many sensors these cars have you will absolutely need to hook it up to a VCDS and get it scanned. Checking the live data might not be such a bad idea as well, but for that you will need to know what to look for, as otherwise it is just a bunch of numbers and values, which will mean nothing.
@@EndlessMotorWorks bs they do to help starting
@@RICHIE_RICH89 please explain how it helps, or you don't get to call b s
Приятелю имам S8 V10 и естествено с същия проблем и се побърквам, можеж ли да ми помогнеш имам 1-2 въпроса. Въждам ,че си на вътре с нещата и моля те помогни ми :) Въпроса ми е ; трябва ли да примахна и тези моторчета който отварят и затварят разни работи там... ( не ги разбирам ) защото такаилиначе са заседнали компа дава грешка stuck at closed position. Ходих Madness Motosport и ми казаха да примахна абслютно всичко да се изкорми и да се затвори хубаво да не издишва от никъде и да ходя пак при тях за software.. Малко дълго стана но ВЪПРОСА Е: ТРЯБВА ЛИ ДА ПРИМАХНА освен flaps и това металното където отваря и затваря отстрани къето е моторчето. - Много благодаря предварително !!!
Здрасти, отговора ми е, че зависи. Аз лично го махнах това моторче дето е отпреде, но после го сложих обратно защото даваше грешка. Моето моторче обаче работеше и реално грешката в компа дойде от това, че е свалено. Щом при теб самото моторче е стегнало багажа, махкай го и иди да ти я кодират за да не ти дава грешка.
Що се отнася за другитедве моторчета, дето са от всяка страна, аз лично не бих ги премахвал ако работят. Ако ги махнеш тях, трябва да се махнат и металните разделители над клапаните и 100про ще трябва да се мапне защото иначе мотора няма да се държи добре на празен ход. Но ако ще се мапва така или иначе не мисля, че ще има значение. В Madness си занчт нещата, така че вслушай се в съветите им. Едва ли е първия 5.2 V10 FSI дето правят. :)
@@EndlessMotorWorks много благодаря за инфото , а иначе караш ли още с6-та :)
@@KanunvekaosОт миналата година по това време до сега е карана около 1000км, че даже и по малко. В момента пътищата ни са твърде лоши за такава кола. И магистралите са занемарени... няма какво да ти разправям, знаеш в нашата държава каква мизерия е :D
@@EndlessMotorWorksвопрос, что вы имели в виду говоря идите кодировать, на Audi S8 2007 после удаления верхних заслонок тоже висит ошибка по заслонкам , средний моторчик подключён, механик сказал что ошибка не удаляется, нужен какой то софт? Или просто расследовать проблему глубже и искать причину?
The stock cats on theses fall apart and the engine will suck the cat pieces every time you shutdown the engine.
I have never heard, nor seen this happening with the A6 and A8 4.2 FSI or 5.2 FSI engines.
+++++1 Exellente!!
Thanks mate! Appreciated! :)
Interpretation: Removal of short/long intake differential flaps.
Can you fix my s8 for me to 😳
Unfortunately I am not a mechanic and don't have a garage. Just a regular dude, who is working on his own vehicles and making TH-cam videos in order to help other regular guys interested in working on their own cars.
@@EndlessMotorWorks hhmmmm I have the s8 v10 5.2 and what your doing in this video I believe the same thing is wrong with my manifold I have a loose motor
@@EndlessMotorWorks is there any chance I can video call you
@@ihussain5335 On my vehicle the main issue was that it couldn't idle. As the flaps broke inside the manifold, this created a huge vacuum leak, causing the car not to run properly. However, if you suspect you have an issue with the flaps do the check that I did just to be sure. Remove the Y-shaped intake on top of the manifold, put you phone inside an make a photo. If you flaps are broken you will clearly be able to see it.
@@EndlessMotorWorks on your video at 6 minutes and 30 seconds that is also loose on mines to what do you think it could be
why does the intake manifold need to be so complicated, its no wonder it broke it has 10 moving parts inside of it. seems like kind of a dumb design to be since if something breaks you could get pieces inside the cylinders and possibly destroy that whole engine like what almost happened with this car, lucky the piece that broke off was kind of big
the idea behind it was to maximize torque regardless of where one is in the rev range. However, with time the plastic disintegrates and does become a ticking time bomb for the engine. I was lucky the piece that got jammed into the valve opening was just big enough not to be able to find its way into the combustion chamber. If it had, it would have been game over for this engine.
Because it’s an Italian designed engine in a German car… over complicated parts make this engine a ticking time bomb.. I’d rather have the W12. Which I had in the D3. amazing engine, just thirsty.
New intake is way way better idea you lose so much power without flaps im telling you removing them make you lose major power it switches from a low rise intake to a high rise . One bottom end power second high end power. People do this all the time and have 0 clue on the power loss from doing this. Buy a new intake trust me.
Idk man, I have seen the numbers on a 4.2 FSI with the flaps deleted and then with a new manifold on. After several dyno runs the difference was about 20-30kW. I know that this is on a V8, but considering how much more power the V10 has even if there is a loss of 30kW, I am not so sure anyone who drives the car normally will ever notice this.
@@EndlessMotorWorks You ll notice way more than 30kw. Its not about peak power, peak power is what you ll never notice. These variable intake are for low and mide range torque and torque is really something you'll feel. You do what you can, but cant call that just as good. Cars have had dual lenght runners since the 90s and it was a game changer in midrange torque figures without sacrifying top end power. Thank for showing your experience with us and Ill be sure to share mine as well. The intake is 2500 $ at the dealership. It's a V10, got to pay exotic price to keep it going.
@@EndlessMotorWorks 4.2 dont have the flaps
@@Nordic_Mechanic you will gain power doing a delete over broken flaps thats for sure butfor all out pwer a new intake is a good idea . I found a audi dealer that has them for 2 k i gotta do mine it pisses me off my car is by far the cleanest s6 ive seen to date . Im hoping to fix it soon. Cool vid though it will help people. If you do the delete jhm makes a map tune to hold torque flaps open the rest you yank out.
@@Nordic_Mechanic i have a lot of experience with audis. Been working on them for audi for 20yrs now going on 21 . The new ones are very very hard to work on. Anyways talk to jhm tuning they will school you fast on this. Not dissing what your doing if you dont have the money id do the same . One thing i wouldnt do is disconnect the sensors. It will throw the computer all over the place . Leve them hooked up and disconnect the arms if needed.
there is NO way that thing will run at its potential by deleting the flaps.
they are there for a reason......
I have never said that it will be exactly as having the flaps fully functional. If you want full potential, there are brand new intake manifolds being sold from Pierburg for the low price of $3500-4000 before installation. What I am showing is that even without the flaps the vehicle will idle and run just fine. Will it be 15-20hp short? - Perhaps, I haven't gotten around to testing dynoing it, but you also save a ton of money and it's not like anyone is actually tracking a vehicle like this in order to feel the difference in a day-to-day commute.
Is there any way you could 3d print the broken parts and fix the flaps?
@@akane742 Probably yes, but I am not sure how strong 3D printed flaps will be. Last thing you want is for them to disintegrate inside of the manifold and pieces getting sucked into the valves and the combustion chamber.
And They Want 4000 To Replace That And You Can Just Take The Flaps Out
Yes you can take the flaps out, but not a lot of people are actually going to do that, as it is quite an involved job.
Bro, these birds