Thank you so much! I know next to nothing about cars but, with this video as a guide, I changed out my idler pulley & it's running again! Saved me a ton of both $ and aggravation.
You can change only bearing and leave Idler wheel the same. Should be bearing type: 6203 2RSJ. Comes from many bearing companies - best is Japanese Natchi, NTN etc. For example: KOYO 6203.2RS.C3 FG. OEM on these pulleys comes NSK 6203DUL1 bearings.
This is a brilliant video. I have looked at a number of the YT vids on related repairs and the whole approach of this video exceeds all others in explanatory power. Production and pacing allowed for real clarity. I will try this tomorrow to replace the idler pulley but will have to clockwise turn the tensioner bolt to get a new belt on...thanks for the diagram!
Hey how's it going? I just replaced my alternator and when I was putting everything back on I saw my tensioner pulley kind of cock-eyed when I put pressure on it, the pulley would just slightly move. I don't think that's normal, should I just replace the pulley or the entire tensioner(two piece with pulley on one side, part number 23769AA003). I was just about to buy the replacement but I wanted to see how to actually replace it, I came across this video but it only shows the pulleys being replaced. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you for the videos!
Very helpful video - I did run into a related issue that I can't find help on. My Idler Pulley was pitched a bit and seems to have stripped the bolt and it will not back out. Is there a way to work around this?
Changing spark plugs on H6 is not a fun job. Took me half a day to do mine. Innermost spark plugs are very close to frame. Depending on your level of DIY, $115 to let someone who exactly knows how to do it isn't a bad deal...
Hi Slam! I'm sorry but I do not have the part numbers. They were bought from Autozone. The stores have a diagram they can view, and you can point to the specific pulley that's needed. Hope this helps.
*** PART NUMBERS FOR THIS REPAIR: K060645, 38489, 36330. I found Amazon to be the cheapest source. Local part stores wanted 20-30 dollars more for almost each part.
Am I the only one who upon removing the tensioner pulley bolt have the NUT fall out the back of the tensioner assembly? I'm here to try and figure out how to get the NUT back into place(because it sits loosely and unsecured on the back side of the tensioner assembly)without it falling out everytime I try to insert the bolt back through the pulley... PITA...
Sure thing. If(and when) you can get that nut back in there, carefully place a piece of tape back in there to hold that nut in place to make it easier for you when you go to install the bolt & pulley...
Yep I was like why is the bolt not tight. Sure enough a nut fell out. I had to take the other pulley back off so I could get a finger in there to hold it on. Seems like something important to add to the video.
You have to put a finger behind the pulley and hold the nut until you get the bolt started. then you should be able to tighten the bolt to spec without the nut falling off.
Thank you so much! I know next to nothing about cars but, with this video as a guide, I changed out my idler pulley & it's running again! Saved me a ton of both $ and aggravation.
You can change only bearing and leave Idler wheel the same. Should be bearing type: 6203 2RSJ. Comes from many bearing companies - best is Japanese Natchi, NTN etc. For example: KOYO 6203.2RS.C3 FG. OEM on these pulleys comes NSK 6203DUL1 bearings.
This is a brilliant video. I have looked at a number of the YT vids on related repairs and the whole approach of this video exceeds all others in explanatory power. Production and pacing allowed for real clarity. I will try this tomorrow to replace the idler pulley but will have to clockwise turn the tensioner bolt to get a new belt on...thanks for the diagram!
Thank you, Damian! Glad it helps.
Thanks, Damian! Let me know if you have any trouble.
Hey how's it going? I just replaced my alternator and when I was putting everything back on I saw my tensioner pulley kind of cock-eyed when I put pressure on it, the pulley would just slightly move. I don't think that's normal, should I just replace the pulley or the entire tensioner(two piece with pulley on one side, part number 23769AA003). I was just about to buy the replacement but I wanted to see how to actually replace it, I came across this video but it only shows the pulleys being replaced. I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you for the videos!
Very helpful video - I did run into a related issue that I can't find help on. My Idler Pulley was pitched a bit and seems to have stripped the bolt and it will not back out. Is there a way to work around this?
Seems like you'd need to move the tensioner pulley CCW to get the belt back on. You said CW?
Never mind, my bad you stated it correctly! Thanks good video.
My tension adjuster pulley broke off. How do I replace it if the piece you thread a new one onto is broken too I think? Is there a video for that? Ty
Thanks you this video it just what i was looking for. I have the same model i dont know nathimg about cars but thanks to you i made it myself
Is the center bolt on the idler pulley regular thread? Lefty-loosey? Thanks
Yes, regular thread.
Great video. It would be great if you could add part numbers used in the video description.
Hi great vid ... are the tensioner pulley and idler pulley the same or are they different .. they look very similar
Hi! Both pulleys are very similar but do have different part numbers. The idler pulley I removed was a different design than the aftermarket.
Thanks for this video. I was stuck on one point and your demonstration cleared it up
Great video thank you for sharing. I paid a company $115 an hour to change my spark plugs. That won't be happening again if I'm able to do it myself.
Changing spark plugs on H6 is not a fun job. Took me half a day to do mine. Innermost spark plugs are very close to frame. Depending on your level of DIY, $115 to let someone who exactly knows how to do it isn't a bad deal...
But...that's $115 AN HOUR ~ not for the whole job.
What are the part numbers and where did you get them? Thanks for the video dude!
Hi Slam! I'm sorry but I do not have the part numbers. They were bought from Autozone. The stores have a diagram they can view, and you can point to the specific pulley that's needed. Hope this helps.
@@markcornell1349 right on man. I appreciate the response.
I work at az what are the numbers on them parts and belt
Just the pulleys? I bought the whole tentioner. It looks impossible to remove
What's impossible
Hi,
Is there anything special to do when you install the belt back ? Or you just twist it around pulleys and that's all ?
Thanks
Thibaut Hennau Hi Thibaut! Just make sure the ribs of the belt fit into the grooves of the pulleys.
Great video you make it look easy I am very worried about the proper torque and messin somethin up I have a 2015 legacy
*** PART NUMBERS FOR THIS REPAIR: K060645, 38489, 36330.
I found Amazon to be the cheapest source. Local part stores wanted 20-30 dollars more for almost each part.
Am I the only one who upon removing the tensioner pulley bolt have the NUT fall out the back of the tensioner assembly? I'm here to try and figure out how to get the NUT back into place(because it sits loosely and unsecured on the back side of the tensioner assembly)without it falling out everytime I try to insert the bolt back through the pulley... PITA...
thanks for the heads up. i'll be doing this job soon.
Sure thing. If(and when) you can get that nut back in there, carefully place a piece of tape back in there to hold that nut in place to make it easier for you when you go to install the bolt & pulley...
Yep I was like why is the bolt not tight. Sure enough a nut fell out. I had to take the other pulley back off so I could get a finger in there to hold it on. Seems like something important to add to the video.
You have to put a finger behind the pulley and hold the nut until you get the bolt started. then you should be able to tighten the bolt to spec without the nut falling off.
Thank you so much this video help me out a lot!
Corey Brown Great, Corey! Glad it helped.
Great INSTRUCTION "
Great INSTRUCTOR "
Thanks FRIEND "
God damnit is it lefty loosey for the tensioner pulley to get the pulley off or what, why do I think its different for this part
FilmPA1986 It’s lefty loosely.
Mark Cornell Figured it out, thanks.
great video thank you
Thank you very much Love the diagram.
Couldn’t really see the torque wrench setting
He said 25 foot pounds in the audio.
Hi since discovered that the best way to fix a Subaru is to buy a Toyota
@@harmonicajohn1059 Yeah, especially since Subaru is making the engines for some Toyotas now.
Size of bolts?
14
You do realize, these bearings start squeaking and squealing, long before they go like this, right?
This one did not
@@markcornell1349 Oh wow, that really stinks.
Yeah cause you put the pulley on backwards to begin with smh
The nut will fall off the back of the tentioner. Thank me later.
check focus problem before posting pls