Matterhorn 4478m - HÖRNLIGRAT // In one day from valley to the summit - FULL DOCUMENTARY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2020
- 2900 vertical meters from Zermatt to the Matterhorn.
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At the beginning of the video you can see our first two attempts to walk the Hörnligrat from the valley. The first time we turned to 4000m due to bad weather at the bivouac.
During the second attempt we saw on a night shot that the eastern flank had fresh snow from 3500m and we spontaneously went up to the Breithorn.
This video is about the third attempt to climb the Matterhorn, which was also successful.
We got up at 00.00 on Monday, got dressed and had breakfast.
Then we took the last train from Täsch to Zermatt by train at 1.00. From the train station or the church in Zermatt, there are 1700 vertical meters and about 10 km to the Hörnlihütte.
It goes past the Blatten and on to the Schwarzsee at 2500m. From here follow the signs to Hörnlihütte 3260m.
Here we deposited some things and filled up water. After the mountain guides left the hut in a strict hierarchy with the guests, we made our way to the Hörnligrat entrance.
From the Hörnli hut go to the entrance and up the entrance wall with fixed ropes. At the end of the ropes turn left over a block to the rubble field. Next, climb up the 1st couloir. Up through the rubble couloir, then left and through a chimney onto a belt.
Later through an intersection with a chimney. Then through the Japanese couloir and stepped up around the ridge with a fixed rope. Later cross the 3rd couloir and then up to the ridge in the east wall through a gutter. You move a lot in the east wall. It goes later on the lazy corner further up.
Now through the "bit" to the Solvay hut (bivouac).
Climb the "Untere Moseleyplatte" about 20 m below the bivouac. Left behind the hut over the "Obere Moseleyplatte again on the ridge.
On the ridge to the "Lower Red Tower" and over it directly with fixed ropes to the shoulder.
Put on the best crampons here. Over the snow-covered shoulder to the ridge.
Later on via the "lower roof and" upper roof "to the summit.
The highest point is the Swiss summit.
You can walk the ridge to the summit cross (Italian summit) with ease but exposed.