Hello James, I've been following your progress with increasing fascination! Your channel has become addictive! Looking forward to the boards going down. Be well and be safe.
If your car is like my old E-Class there is a keyhole underneath the bootlid next to the number plate light where you can use your emergancy metal key, stored in your remote fob, to open the boot manually.
That apparently doesn’t work either, he said a couple videos back. Must be the mechanical part of the lock that’s broken, not just the electrical actuator.
Hi James, Your work load is phenominal, but I suppose mine is too cos I'me up to 29 as well, but in the comfort of my armchair in Somerset with a pint of scrumpy cider from the farm and enjoying every minute. Many thanks be with you for 30.
Narrowboat Precious Jet really??? Mate it’s a minefield and so approx about ballast. I saw a boat the other with 10cms of poured concrete throughout !!!!
Wow wouldn’t fancy removing that stuff to do some work! My boat does sit quite low in the water so I assume I have enough ballast in there lol 👍🏼 I do have a lot of broken slabs in the front of my tug deck that I’m going to replace with thick steel bar as steel is heavier than the slabs of similar size 😋
I’m binging on these James . So glad you went to self tappers, I’m a tradesman (electrician)and was thinking poor sod that’s going take him ages. Your doing a great job fella. Can’t wait to find out the name of the boat? Or have I missed that. All the best.
James...just found your channel recently, and love it. Watched 'em all . You're setting yourself a blistering pace , and making progress to match . Top marks , mate- boy , are you driven !!! Just a quick comment on under-floor insulation , if I may ; It may not benefit the internal temperature budget of the boat , but , it may help keep any escaping heat from getting too far down into the below-waterline area , thus helping to reduce potential condensation down ther. My 2 cents, FWIW. Keep at it , mate, yer doin' good !
You know what , iv looked forward to seeing how you tackle things , and of all the jobs you have had to do getting those bricks back up and in place made me wince 😜. We have done up 2 cottages in the last 20 years , not a million miles really from what you are doing , but iv got a bad back , and all along iv thought that's THE crap job getting them on and down , rest up fella 😉 Cheers Mark
hatterbarbel it was the twisting and turning with bricks was the tough part. Those piles never seemed to diminish....but they did and the back is ok (at the moment) !!! I suffer from sciatica from time to time so I’m really mindful of my back and immediate stop when I feel it’s too much. Anyway, the bricks are done with !!
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt , the rest of the build will seem lightweight after that , it's nice seeing someone doing it what seems right , and thinking of the future , many would have pumped out and give it a quick coat or even left it 😉
moving those bricks HAS to be a BACK-Breaking job. And the stupid part, it it's not the weight, as much as the twisting and turning while you're bent over. It's REALLY hard on your back - Take care of it, or you'll end up like me! Glad to see you're making so much progress so quickly, though. AND that you're doing everything you can to make sure it lasts! It will definitely be a project you will be proud of!
Loving the series always wanted to do it my self but her indoors will not let me. You could always use her for ballast under the floor if you need a ton or two wink wink
A wimp!!!??? Your far from a wimp James. The work you are doing , in the time you have allotted yourself, is tremendous. Keep at it. Don’t get discouraged. And take a break from it once In awhile. It will help get your head right
How do you know when the ballast is correct, ie right amount of bricks in the right places? Is this something that you have to fine tune when the boat is in the water? Are bricks the ‘standard thing’ for narrow boat ballast? You mentioned water running down the channel you left in the row...what water, and where does it come from? I’d always assumed the area under a boat floor was dry. Sorry for the interrogation questions....the video was interesting. Thank you 😊
So. E320 boot stuck. When you get in to the boot, look at the boot lid hinge area (nearside/passenger side). The wiring loom goes through there, and the earth wire breaks (and maybe others) from opening and closing. You sometimes get arcing also, so it might be a little black from that. Fuse likely to have gone, so check your tail lights and especially the number plate lights (I think these number plate lights are on the same fuse as the release mechanism). You might be lucky and find the fuse gone, replace it, flip the release, which is electrical, it might just work before blowing again. The hinge is hidden behind the panelling. The fuse is likely to blow IF you have the car lights on at the same time as you open the boot.
Do you have to allow for the weight of kitchens toilets and water tank when laying ballast? I found on my boat alot of ballast on one side and nearer to the front. Is there some kind of formula. Great job by the way. Alot of work.
Yes I have to allow for everything in the boat but working out balance front to back is much harder than left to right. I have no idea where the balance point - it’s a bit guesswork to be honest
I've never worked on a narrowboat, but I helped a friend build an RV, I have a few suggestions about the electrical. The first is, look at everything that you're planning to install and figure out the voltages of everything. We put in a large inverter, and as we went, we figured out that we didn't actually need it. If we were to build it again, we wouldn't put it in an inverter at all. For one, the refrigerator, stove igniter, cassette toilet, diesel fueled heater and all the lighting was 12 volts. The only thing that actually required house voltage (110 in our case, 240 in yours) was the microwave/convection oven, and it consumes so much power that it would kill the battery pretty quickly. Everything that *wasn't* 12 volts was actually some other low DC voltage, 5 volts, 9.5 volts or in the case of a laptop, 19.5. So it would have been a case of taking 12 volts, converting it to house voltage, and then converting it back down to a lower voltage. Instead, what we did was got small DC to DC converters, just large enough for what we needed - a 5 volt one, a 9.5 volt one, and a 19.5 volt one. It was actually easier than that, as they all were variable voltage, so I just adjusted them, and then used a bit of hot glue to lock the adjustment in place. The end result is that everything is much more efficient, he's not having to run a giant inverter, and he saved a lot of money. One other thing to consider from our build - we installed a Webasto diesel stove. It's a ceramic top, sealed combustion stove. My friend wanted to make sure that he would not be dependent on buying gas cylinders. With the diesel stove, diesel heater, and 12 volt refrigerator, as long as he can get water and fuel, he can go anywhere he likes.
Midwest Concert Video This is so interesting as only today I was questioning the need for an inverter. So I’m going to look into this in more detail so thanks - bang on the mark
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt It depends on what your needs are. For instance, if you do a lot of cooking, you'll need it for a mixer or other kitchen appliances. Or people who spend a lot and effort on their hair might need curlers, etc. My approach is to keep everything 12 volts as much as possible. One thing I was curious about was your choice to get rid of the "calorifier." I think you mentioned that you were going to put in a boiler instead?
Midwest Concert Video Midwest Concert Video I can’t have a calirifier as mine is an air cooled engine. I agree about 12v - the only thing for me would be a vacuum but I could get a rechargeable one and charge it at work !
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt A rechargeable vacuum will have a wall charger outputting some DC voltage, maybe 9 volts, and a DC to DC converter might do the job. In the case of my friend's RV, the non 12 volt stuff was his laptop, satellite phone, Wi-Fi router, printer and a handful of other things.
I've been looking to see at the bow if you had your friend weld supports from the short brace to the first floor support but I don't see any? I presume he convinced you they weren't needed? I also presume you'll place battens over the short floor supports you had your friend weld in or were they deemed unneeded due to the angle iron welded to the hull and being unseen?
James, how did you decide how much total ballast weight you needed, apart from basing it on what was there to begin with? Did you assume this was the correct amount or did you check it first, and if so, how? Thank you, David and Jilly.
when securing battens to the wall, do the screws penetrate the hull, if not where do the screws go, if not what are the screws go if not through the metal?
Staple that radiator reflector foil to the back of the boards, easier to fit than celotex and you’ve got a vapour barrier as well as heat retention, cheaper as well I think
Hello James, I've been following your progress with increasing fascination! Your channel has become addictive! Looking forward to the boards going down. Be well and be safe.
Sean Adams hey thanks Sean, kind of you to say. Glad you like the vids
If your car is like my old E-Class there is a keyhole underneath the bootlid next to the number plate light where you can use your emergancy metal key, stored in your remote fob, to open the boot manually.
That apparently doesn’t work either, he said a couple videos back. Must be the mechanical part of the lock that’s broken, not just the electrical actuator.
Hi James, Your work load is phenominal, but I suppose mine is too cos I'me up to 29 as well, but in the comfort of my armchair in Somerset with a pint of scrumpy cider from the farm and enjoying every minute. Many thanks be with you for 30.
Ron Webster
Your position sounds rather enviable I must say. Especially your choice of beverage
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Cheers James (PJ)
Evening James, you never stop. Your a machine lol.
You really are doing a great job and your boat is coming on a treat. Look forward to seeing your next vlogs!
You have a hell of a lot more ballast then I have in my boat mate!
Narrowboat Precious Jet really??? Mate it’s a minefield and so approx about ballast. I saw a boat the other with 10cms of poured concrete throughout !!!!
Wow wouldn’t fancy removing that stuff to do some work! My boat does sit quite low in the water so I assume I have enough ballast in there lol 👍🏼 I do have a lot of broken slabs in the front of my tug deck that I’m going to replace with thick steel bar as steel is heavier than the slabs of similar size 😋
Also I did notice you have house bricks and my ballast is block pavers! I’m thinking the block pavers are heavier than bricks👍🏼👍🏼
Is that Lizbet’s (Earleswrites) boat I spy next up from yours? Small world!
The energizer bunny.
I’m binging on these James . So glad you went to self tappers, I’m a tradesman (electrician)and was thinking poor sod that’s going take him ages. Your doing a great job fella. Can’t wait to find out the name of the boat? Or have I missed that. All the best.
Your sheer hard work is admirable. I hope you have a lot of fun in the completed boat.
James...just found your channel recently, and love it. Watched 'em all . You're setting yourself a blistering pace , and making progress to match . Top marks , mate- boy , are you driven !!! Just a quick comment on under-floor insulation , if I may ; It may not benefit the internal temperature budget of the boat , but , it may help keep any escaping heat from getting too far down into the below-waterline area , thus helping to reduce potential condensation down ther. My 2 cents, FWIW. Keep at it , mate, yer doin' good !
You know what , iv looked forward to seeing how you tackle things , and of all the jobs you have had to do getting those bricks back up and in place made me wince 😜. We have done up 2 cottages in the last 20 years , not a million miles really from what you are doing , but iv got a bad back , and all along iv thought that's THE crap job getting them on and down , rest up fella 😉
Cheers Mark
hatterbarbel it was the twisting and turning with bricks was the tough part. Those piles never seemed to diminish....but they did and the back is ok (at the moment) !!! I suffer from sciatica from time to time so I’m really mindful of my back and immediate stop when I feel it’s too much. Anyway, the bricks are done with !!
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt , the rest of the build will seem lightweight after that , it's nice seeing someone doing it what seems right , and thinking of the future , many would have pumped out and give it a quick coat or even left it 😉
moving those bricks HAS to be a BACK-Breaking job. And the stupid part, it it's not the weight, as much as the twisting and turning while you're bent over. It's REALLY hard on your back - Take care of it, or you'll end up like me! Glad to see you're making so much progress so quickly, though. AND that you're doing everything you can to make sure it lasts! It will definitely be a project you will be proud of!
You are sooooo right. The twisting and turning is the killer and spinning on a 6pence and doing it it again. I still can’t quite sit up properly yet !
Loving the series always wanted to do it my self but her indoors will not let me. You could always use her for ballast under the floor if you need a ton or two wink wink
Simon Millard excellent mate - that’s well cheered me up!!!
A wimp!!!??? Your far from a wimp James. The work you are doing , in the time you have allotted yourself, is tremendous. Keep at it. Don’t get discouraged. And take a break from it once In awhile. It will help get your head right
Cheers mark - I’m resting up at home at the moment so that’s a relief. Back to the boat tomorrow evening !! Hope all is well
Cheers back at you from this side of the pond. Hope you get your boot fixed. Thanks for the reply
Mate what ever your on with that superspeed of picking up and laying the bricks pass it on haha
Congratulations on 1000 subscribers!
When you hit a thousand subscribers and four thousand hours of viewership in a year, you can monetize the channel.
How do you know when the ballast is correct, ie right amount of bricks in the right places?
Is this something that you have to fine tune when the boat is in the water?
Are bricks the ‘standard thing’ for narrow boat ballast?
You mentioned water running down the channel you left in the row...what water, and where does it come from? I’d always assumed the area under a boat floor was dry.
Sorry for the interrogation questions....the video was interesting. Thank you 😊
The back seat panel should be able to come out, check down the sides of the back seat, back, it might come out
So. E320 boot stuck. When you get in to the boot, look at the boot lid hinge area (nearside/passenger side). The wiring loom goes through there, and the earth wire breaks (and maybe others) from opening and closing. You sometimes get arcing also, so it might be a little black from that. Fuse likely to have gone, so check your tail lights and especially the number plate lights (I think these number plate lights are on the same fuse as the release mechanism). You might be lucky and find the fuse gone, replace it, flip the release, which is electrical, it might just work before blowing again. The hinge is hidden behind the panelling. The fuse is likely to blow IF you have the car lights on at the same time as you open the boot.
Do you have to allow for the weight of kitchens toilets and water tank when laying ballast? I found on my boat alot of ballast on one side and nearer to the front. Is there some kind of formula. Great job by the way. Alot of work.
Yes I have to allow for everything in the boat but working out balance front to back is much harder than left to right. I have no idea where the balance point - it’s a bit guesswork to be honest
I've never worked on a narrowboat, but I helped a friend build an RV, I have a few suggestions about the electrical.
The first is, look at everything that you're planning to install and figure out the voltages of everything. We put in a large inverter, and as we went, we figured out that we didn't actually need it. If we were to build it again, we wouldn't put it in an inverter at all.
For one, the refrigerator, stove igniter, cassette toilet, diesel fueled heater and all the lighting was 12 volts. The only thing that actually required house voltage (110 in our case, 240 in yours) was the microwave/convection oven, and it consumes so much power that it would kill the battery pretty quickly.
Everything that *wasn't* 12 volts was actually some other low DC voltage, 5 volts, 9.5 volts or in the case of a laptop, 19.5. So it would have been a case of taking 12 volts, converting it to house voltage, and then converting it back down to a lower voltage.
Instead, what we did was got small DC to DC converters, just large enough for what we needed - a 5 volt one, a 9.5 volt one, and a 19.5 volt one. It was actually easier than that, as they all were variable voltage, so I just adjusted them, and then used a bit of hot glue to lock the adjustment in place.
The end result is that everything is much more efficient, he's not having to run a giant inverter, and he saved a lot of money.
One other thing to consider from our build - we installed a Webasto diesel stove. It's a ceramic top, sealed combustion stove. My friend wanted to make sure that he would not be dependent on buying gas cylinders. With the diesel stove, diesel heater, and 12 volt refrigerator, as long as he can get water and fuel, he can go anywhere he likes.
Midwest Concert Video
This is so interesting as only today I was questioning the need for an inverter. So I’m going to look into this in more detail so thanks - bang on the mark
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt
It depends on what your needs are.
For instance, if you do a lot of cooking, you'll need it for a mixer or other kitchen appliances. Or people who spend a lot and effort on their hair might need curlers, etc.
My approach is to keep everything 12 volts as much as possible.
One thing I was curious about was your choice to get rid of the "calorifier." I think you mentioned that you were going to put in a boiler instead?
Midwest Concert Video Midwest Concert Video I can’t have a calirifier as mine is an air cooled engine. I agree about 12v - the only thing for me would be a vacuum but I could get a rechargeable one and charge it at work !
And no.....my hair styling doesn’t require too much voltage or power 🤣
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt A rechargeable vacuum will have a wall charger outputting some DC voltage, maybe 9 volts, and a DC to DC converter might do the job.
In the case of my friend's RV, the non 12 volt stuff was his laptop, satellite phone, Wi-Fi router, printer and a handful of other things.
If your blacking the underside of the boards are you going to treat the batons?Great work so far .
Nah, those battens can sit in water for years and be good.
All in all its just a brick in the floor....
🎸
Regarding the malfunctioning car boot latch. Have you checked the fuses?
I've been looking to see at the bow if you had your friend weld supports from the short brace to the first floor support but I don't see any?
I presume he convinced you they weren't needed?
I also presume you'll place battens over the short floor supports you had your friend weld in or were they deemed unneeded due to the angle iron welded to the hull and being unseen?
There’s no need to batten them. They were there purely to support the outer battens
James, how did you decide how much total ballast weight you needed, apart from basing it on what was there to begin with? Did you assume this was the correct amount or did you check it first, and if so, how? Thank you, David and Jilly.
when securing battens to the wall, do the screws penetrate the hull, if not where do the screws go, if not what are the screws go if not through the metal?
A B there are 25mm metal braces welded to the frame all over the boat - I’m screwing into those, not the shell of the boat
Staple that radiator reflector foil to the back of the boards, easier to fit than celotex and you’ve got a vapour barrier as well as heat retention, cheaper as well I think
It’s been 19 hours with no video! Are you OK?
😃
Kev Coomber yeah man all good - there’ll be one later
Bricks are comming in!!!!! Yey!!!😀
Hi are you putting any insulation under your floor
Yes, celotex boards
👍👌🇨🇦❤
Oh man you really need some Benny Hill music. Opportunity missed