Press the mic PTT and the mic up/dnw arrows - that's the easiest and quickest way to make it go up or down. That method also lets you fine tune an auto-tune for a better SWR in some instances.
Glad it was something simple so hopefully i haven’t wasted my pennies. Just subscribed AGAIN as i am 99% certain i did months ago so no idea what is going on there. Probably explains why i wasn’t seeing a lot of your content lately. Best 73
@@M7BVV-Phil cheers Phil I moved here for the garden , it's perfect , obviously having a tower would be nice but hey it's good to have to work a bit for the contacts :)
I have a Tarheel 200 sitting here in shack, I used with with a few ground radials and worked VK a few times on 40M, it's a pile up buster, bin the ATAS.
@@MikeDent yep it an ATAS 120 designed for Yaesu but you can get a control box to allow it to be used with any radio, check the ML&S website for details .
there was no point sanding off the paint as the mounts are normally painted or powder coated and are not conductive between the aerial so239 and mounting screws (test with a multimeter), as most people run their rigs from the car battery the coax is grounded to the chassis through that and don't require extra earths, we are also talking about RF and not DC so you get capacitive coupling any way, hope you have had no more problems with it, I will watch out for those connectors in the future with a handy pair of wire cutters lol
@@Auntystatic yep totally agree, was a while ago now but I think the main reason for better earth was for the DC to the drive motor in the antenna (not for RF).
Don't strip off the paint, when you do that you remove the zinc rustproofing layer. Don't use the metal plate when attaching to metal bodywork...I'll explain why later in my reply. You just use the grub screws to secure the mount. The grub screws will cut through the paint to the metal of the bodywork and the zinc rustproof coating will seal around them so your car doesn't rust. That metal plate is only really to be used if you're attaching the mount to plastic or fibreglass so the metal plate and bottom of the bit with the rubber on exert a clamping force instead of the grub screws just cutting straight through the plastic or fibreglass. You would attach the mount , place the metal plate on the underside of the surface you've attached it to and then tighten the grub screws so they're putting pressure on the plate instead of cutting into the panel.
So what causes it to stick, top or bottom , Yaesu Tech told me that I needed to put a Duplexer on my ft 891 because my 120a is to close to Comet uhf/vhf , and putting rf into 120a which is going onti my ft891 and it can mess up the front end on my ft891,and I only operate one at a time
When I first turn the mobile 891 on, I tune to a 10 mtr frequency, push tune and the ATAS wakes up a lot more quickly. After this it tunes down the bands more easily.
If you have to strip a small amount of paint to earth your mounting, smear a little petroleum jelly where youve removed the paint from. This will help prevent corrosion setting in
I build Station Master, come give it a go at sm2.station-master.online/register
Press the mic PTT and the mic up/dnw arrows - that's the easiest and quickest way to make it go up or down. That method also lets you fine tune an auto-tune for a better SWR in some instances.
Good job!
Glad it was something simple so hopefully i haven’t wasted my pennies. Just subscribed AGAIN as i am 99% certain i did months ago so no idea what is going on there. Probably explains why i wasn’t seeing a lot of your content lately. Best 73
Lovely looking garden Stu, which looks like it serves you well. Good job well done I'd say on the aerial!
@@M7BVV-Phil cheers Phil I moved here for the garden , it's perfect , obviously having a tower would be nice but hey it's good to have to work a bit for the contacts :)
@G5STU, I've slowly been trying to get the XYL to agree, too move, but she's having none of it so far. 😂
Congratulations on getting the ATAS to work.
Thanks!
I have a Tarheel 200 sitting here in shack, I used with with a few ground radials and worked VK a few times on 40M, it's a pile up buster, bin the ATAS.
I'll have a FT101E and ZD in the shack soon , like and subscribe if you'd like to see me putting those on air.
I have a little box to manually tune the atas so use it with my icom. Fun device. I had same mount I found it didn’t last and kept coming loose.
Nice! Is that a Yaesu specific aerial? Never seen on of those before.
@@MikeDent yep it an ATAS 120 designed for Yaesu but you can get a control box to allow it to be used with any radio, check the ML&S website for details .
0:29 What's the dashboard mount you are using there Stu?
just the one that came with the separation kit Nick.
@@G5STU Oh, ok, my separation kit came with a windscreen suction mount - which I don't like. I'll see what the other options are, tnx.
there was no point sanding off the paint as the mounts are normally painted or powder coated and are not conductive between the aerial so239 and mounting screws (test with a multimeter), as most people run their rigs from the car battery the coax is grounded to the chassis through that and don't require extra earths, we are also talking about RF and not DC so you get capacitive coupling any way, hope you have had no more problems with it, I will watch out for those connectors in the future with a handy pair of wire cutters lol
@@Auntystatic yep totally agree, was a while ago now but I think the main reason for better earth was for the DC to the drive motor in the antenna (not for RF).
Don't strip off the paint, when you do that you remove the zinc rustproofing layer. Don't use the metal plate when attaching to metal bodywork...I'll explain why later in my reply. You just use the grub screws to secure the mount. The grub screws will cut through the paint to the metal of the bodywork and the zinc rustproof coating will seal around them so your car doesn't rust.
That metal plate is only really to be used if you're attaching the mount to plastic or fibreglass so the metal plate and bottom of the bit with the rubber on exert a clamping force instead of the grub screws just cutting straight through the plastic or fibreglass. You would attach the mount , place the metal plate on the underside of the surface you've attached it to and then tighten the grub screws so they're putting pressure on the plate instead of cutting into the panel.
Whats the little stand you have the radio on ?
very nice
So what causes it to stick, top or bottom , Yaesu Tech told me that I needed to put a Duplexer on my ft 891 because my 120a is to close to Comet uhf/vhf , and putting rf into 120a which is going onti my ft891 and it can mess up the front end on my ft891,and I only operate one at a time
When I first turn the mobile 891 on, I tune to a 10 mtr frequency, push tune and the ATAS wakes up a lot more quickly. After this it tunes down the bands more easily.
Do you leave the head unit on the dash all the time ? I'm looking for something that's easily detached..
I think you can get a quick release but I don't have one
Well gel Stu 😭😭😭😭😭 hoping to get a 710 in the next couple of days 🤞🏽 tomorrow
73
@@m7trsradio good luck with it 👍
If you have to strip a small amount of paint to earth your mounting, smear a little petroleum jelly where youve removed the paint from. This will help prevent corrosion setting in
Ну помидоры лучше чем обзор ft-891c ATAS-120
Thanks for the video my antenna stays stuck as well. I'll give this a try 73s de n3lou
Body mount for the win get the drill out stu. 2m0wkc