Tune up Time for the $1800 Copart 66 Plymouth Fury II 318 V8 - There Were Issues!
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Tune up Time for the $1800 Copart 66 Plymouth Fury II 318 V8 - There Were Issues!
#Copart #Plymouth #Fury - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Plug wires crossed
My guess and it’s educated because I’m 63 and have worked on the old cars. The timing is off and yes points but the timing chains over time stretch and can jump time a lot if it’s old and worn out like me. Lol. I wish you’d checked the timing when you had water pump off because I believe the chain is behind the water pump. Good luck !
Check with a timing light
,Randy check the nada classic car values
180 is correct thermostat temp
Sounds like the timing has changed or possible plug wires crossed
Engine is running hot AF and he mentioned a backfire on decel. The timing is off. Bet you the distributor is shot.
Ya sounds like that to me to
checking the fireing order
I don't see a fan shroud. The cooling escapes without it.
Ape Gorrillo we’ll also it looks like the cooler was replaced that cooler is shiny
@@ApeGorrillo I had three poly 318's, all with 180F thermostats, none with a shroud. no cooling issues. When you test drove it, I didn't see the temp gauge move, so maybe the sender or its wire need checking.
@@awhs-uc3ng absolutely not all old engines needed or had shrouds
Cylinders 1 and 2 have leaking intake valve guide seals. Replace them all as I suspect what you stated as running rich on some plugs is probably oil fouling.
You must get the service manual for the car. The manual will have all the information you need to do the job correctly.
Next tell us we should read the manual... :-)
Evil Ash RTFM!!! 😂😂🤷🏻♂️
Randy , you should have painted the value cover it would make it look tidy under the hood .
It’s pretty easy to convert that to a electronic ignition, the kit comes with a ballast resistor, distributor (with magnetic pickup) and a orange ignition box.
Old-school cars need to have the dwell set for the points and the timing must be set with a timing light. Those cars also have timing chains. Bad timing chains or gears can also create problems with timing.
your belt's loose...
plus leaving the ignition on all night overheats and kills the coil ...
i bet that was your problem
Here's som.old school do not leave key on a points system it burns contacts and messes up condenser for sure. Where's fan should that will definetly run hot without one.
I agree. Probably not the thermostat. No shroud may be more of an issue.
As I mentioned before the car needs a 180 thermostat. A 195 is too high especially with no fan shroud.
3:06 Man I love this Fury II. Reminds me of my 4 door '65 Ford Galaxie I used to have back in the early 90s. Love it man, just love it!
I'd love to have that car , it's just like the one my dad had when I was a little boy, rode and slept in the back window when I was little, traveling late at night
I did the same thing in our 72 Chrysler Newport custom
Great Video Randy! My parents had one! Looking around and talking to a friend, he recommends a 180d thermostat for the 318. Keep us informed how things go with the continued tune up!
I’d say the temp sensor is faulty and telling u bs on the gauge
Or the timing is out
U may also have air in the cooling system too.
Put electronic points in it
Check timing and make sure plug wires are on right. Just had a guy in with a Chevelle running bad like that and found plug wires were on wrong. Switched them around to the right firing order and the car smoked like hell when first started but smoothed out and runs great. Maybe that's why plugs weren't looking the same ?
i would NEVER admitted the I forgot the rotor......You are an honest Man and found humor in your mistake! Way to go!
Hello from Prince George BC Canada What have done in the past older vehicles after sitting I put 1 can of Sea Foam in the tank and 1 can in the oil and drive. You see a large difference in a short time. I have done this about 30 times works wonders. SWEET LOOKING 66 Fury
Randy, see the oil laying on bottom of the head,drain back holes are getting plugged, use a striaghtened wire coat hanger to rod them out.
But u also need a shroud around fan blades
Just ordered my kove commuter 2! Can't wait to try it out. Keep up the great videos Randy.
Randy, you should install a winch on the other side of the shop.
Never wanna leave the key on with points ignition sometimes it can stick the contacts together. Food for thought !
Hi Randy you are so lucky to find these beautiful automobile in your location, I’m from Canada I love those old car from the past keep going.
Check the spark plug wires, one may be bad. We had a 1967 in 1971 that we really beat on, towing a 1500lb trailer between Baltimore and Ocean City every weekend for my band. I loved that car- it never left me walking. Same powertrain.
Excellent work and thanks for the content stay safe and take care
My 58 318 had the same symptoms, cruising it would miss, heavy acceleration it would run great, couldn't believe it but it was the points and condenser.
Those cars used 180 degree thermostats. A lot of people used 170 degree, and they made the engines run too cold.
Fan shroud?
Definitely needs the fan shroud. That'll end the heating issues on the temperature
Convert to electronic ignition system with centrifugal advance dizzy it will give you a better spark and fuel economy.....
Love your videos best thing after a long day during dinner
had a 66 tempest wagon in high school ran like that vacume leak ,
did you knock somthing loose during pressure wash ?
I can't believe you're selling this one keeping the 59. This is a real gem
Ive had this problem before on an old pickup. What it was was the Excelerator pump has a pin hole in it & when it’s low rpm gas goes thru that hole & is flooding it out. Rebuild the carb & it will solve your problem.
When you install he new points set the dwell angle and check the timing. Make sure you have the plug wires in the right firing order.
This is why you never wash a Dodge Engine even the modern engine don’t like getting wet.
Love all the work you do.
I like seeing you work on the old cars I love working on the old cars my dad told me how to work on those when growing up but you should check your alternator belt your serpentine belt it looks a little bit loose in the video but good video I enjoy it keep up the video content for us thank you buddy
Love to see the old girl brought back to life. Should sell it at an old car auction
Wooden golf tees are great for plugging fuel lines and fuel filter inlet and outlet so it doesn’t spill or spraying the engine bay.
This is a very nice car u have there. I would just tighten up the alternator belt, look like I had a little slop in it as in loose wise. Other than that it's a real sweet car!!!
God bless the previous owner of this car to take great care of a 4 door Plymouth of all things. Sure it’s not a convertible or a hemi , but still a thing of beauty to a car guy.
This car was probably owned by an elderly driver and then passed onto a younger family member. The last family member to inherit it does not want to keep it or trades it in at a car dealership. Then the dealership sends it to auction. Few 1966 Plymouths made it through the 1970s and especially the 1980s.
Hey Randy! Love the vids buddy. Thank you so much for putting the time and effort for our entertainment. I know YT does pay you, but still, thank you! I do have one question though: Will you bump the frames of the vids to 60 any time soon? I have a 144hz monitor and on these, if the video is below 60, it's all choppy. It's still very much watchable, don't get me wrong, but i'd love to see them in smooth 60 frames :). Stay safe out there buddy!
Definitely a poly head motor. The later LA 318 has the valves in line on one side of the rocker shaft and has wedge shaped combustion chambers.
I understand having to sell it, but I sure hope it ends up going to a good home where someone will care for it. That car deserves it
I love this channel. It's like a little more modern Cold War Motors!
I like it. A big hammer under the hood. Thats how ya work on the old cars.
Of course you know obviously that the battery 'tie-down' needs secured. It helps avoid excessive vibrating which then as the battery ages shakes particles loose inside that will ground out the plates and actually internally short out cells and ultimately destroys and kills the battery. I also agree with the comment about the need for a radiator shroud, even if you have to JB weld the shroud if there isn't already a set up for adding a shroud. Good luck Randy as I think you are doing a great job. I have a 1972 Dodge Dart 4 door with the 318 and I haven't started it for about 5 years. I did use Sta-bil including some of the new Sta-bil 360 that 'vaporizes the entire fuel system to protect it.
160 degree F is the correct thermostat. 195 is too hot. In the summer with the 195'f, you will get pinging - pre-ignition / pre-combustion. Since you washed the engine, make sure there is no water in the distributor. Take the cap off and dry her out with an air hose. Same for the cap. I did the same thing to my Mom's 1964 Dodge Polara. Thought I was doing a good thing washing the engine. As for the points, you need a dwell meter to accurately set the point gap. You will know the gap is correct when she starts easily. Oh, dwell setting is 30 degrees.
Like someone else mentioned. Ck the firing order. You have two plug wires crossed. The backfire was due to the unburned gas from the crossed wires. 195 t stat is a little high. A lot of those older cars ran closer to a 160 degree.
double check the plug wireing (firing order) replace those old points with generic points from auto zone or advance and condensor too,check vacum line to the spark advance then throw a timing light on it ,dial it in to factory and put the breather back on there.
I like the Fury, but LOVE the Coronet. Keep restoring the Coroner. She's full of character
Check and make sure you have no plug wires crossed, replace the points and condenser, and check the the timing. I know they (who ever they are) make conversion kit so you can convert it from points to solid state, I would. The carburetor maybe fine but from the looks of it I would rebuild it. You could have a vacuum leak around the throttle shaft (old and wore out) through the carburetor and when you punch it the problem gets covered up. I had a carburetor with a problem like that. Bushing kits are made for carburetor throttle shafts. As far as the thermostat I do not know but I would bet a 180 degree one.
@@jbncnow Yes I was thinking that later also.
Oh and one more thing all spark plugs have a number for a heat range make sure you get the right plugs for your engine
I just replaced a thermostat in a '67 Phoenix last weekend and put a 71°c or 160°f in it and the temp is a needle width under half. It did go up to 2/3rds on the drive before coming back down. Probably due to an air pocket. Part number TT2-160.
on those oldies tune up required points, plugs., cap rotor. timing and sometimes carb minor adjustment every 30,000 miles
With the corrosion in the distributor, the advance weights underneath the breaker plate may need attention - cleaning, inspection, and a little lube. Change the points, adjust them, then set the timing to factory specs. You may also have a carb issue and/or a vacuum leak causing the light throttle issue. I had a '66 Fury III hardtop in the late '80s/early '90s, and it was the best riding car of any of my collector cars, bar none. Put 100K miles on that car, loved it.
I had a very similar problem with my 1964 Buick 425 nailhead...Had new points ,plugs ,rotor, and wires as well as a new coil. Finally tested spark at each plug and found brand new ignition wire defective..must have been an internal break...A new set of wires had it running perfectly.
Check to make sure the firing order is right. By the looks of the plugs, you have some wires not in the correct order. It also could be timing and points and rotor.
Thermostat for that car should not be over 180 degree's.
Brought back old memories when you hit passing gear. Have you checked the timing?
Good Lord Randy DONT SELL THIS CAR!! Please :-( I love this Car. Saddly it cost to much to send it over to Germany. I would buy this Car in a Heartbeat.
Point gap and oil the distributor cam that the pouts ride so they don’t wear closing the point gap then set the timing to 10-12 BTDC then adjust the air/fuel screws and set the idle speed
And you are so correct laying in bed thinking about your engines is the best way to solve anything it's actually fun also
Hey, Randy, two little tips for the auto-focus... first is your camera [picture quality] is very good, so really no need to hold parts quite so close to the camera, second is the wide angle and depth of field is what causes the auto-focus to struggle sometimes, so pop your other hand behind the part to give more foreground subject for the sensor to pick up and focus on.
The look like they have normal carbon on them. 2 are oil fouled. It the oil foul from ring wear or from valve guide seal being dry out. You will need to do a compression check to see if the oil fouled ones are worn out rings or valve guide seals causing oil fouling problems? valve guide seals can be replaced with the heads on its a neat trick you air up the cylinder and then remove the valve spring the air keeps the valve from falling down into the cylinder. then you can remove the valve guide seals and replace them. One by one with each valve closed.
It almost sounds like timing or a crossed plugwire
Hey Randy can you help me with my car and give me suggestions on what you think is wrong with it I have a 1995 cadillac deville 4.9l when I have the headlights on the car stumbles and acts like it doesn't want to go but right when I cut the headlights off its runs and drives fine I replaced the battery and the alternator and still does it and all the radio and ac lights flash
Check for vacuum leaks first...then you got a hundred possibilities after that.
Keep the hood closed..can't continue to look upon those valve covers and intake manifold and 2 barrel carb.
Looking at the plugs and not really the whole system, I would suspect that the plug wires might be causing the problems!!
The off idle circuit in the carburetor is causing the rough running. Depending on what type of carb it is you can try to spray carb cleaner through the internal passages right above the throttle blades or you will have to disassemble it to properly clean all the passages.
Timing chain might be slack? timing light would tell ya
Oh randy!I feel ya with the washing of the engine bay, I just cleaned the bottom of the hood and I didnt even wash the motor/engine. In my volkswagen the ignition coil is near the firewall just under the windshield cowel, well after I wash that and cleaned the outside it wouldn't start, I thought it was my starter 30 mins later ran like shit, soaked my ignition coil unintentionally and without knowing and fried it. 90 dollars later it ran lmao!
Checkout the fan belt appears to be loose around the alternator. Temp fix might be spray electrical cleaner around the bottom of the distributor. A very good cleaning was something we did in the sixties on Chevy and Mopar cars. Worked back then.
Randy, I think it all comes back to leaving the ignition on. Normally if you leave the ignition on, it burns out both the points AND the condenser! I do think this is your problem. Hope this helps mate Cheers
Did you check the timing and your firing order?
You need a fan shroud on your radiator. That will help with temps. I would also check the timing.
I would use a180 degree thermostat. Change the points and condenser. Rebuild the carb and check for vacuum leaks with soapy water around intake. Also make sure the vacuum advance doesn’t have a hole in it. We had one of these cars when we were married 44 years ago. Drove it for many years till it totally rusted away. I live in northern Illinois. Enjoying your videos.
In
Thermostat I used was 180 on the old mopar. I would check the sending unit giving the age of the car. I would swap out the points for an electronic conversion. I remember my Dad cussing over gap and dwell of the points
Randy when you do any type of tune up you have to check timing and carb adjustment. Now you changed the plugs did you do the wires? Cap and rotor and yes by all means points and condenser. Then after everything is done check timing the adjust the carb. Remember no computer on this old girl. It is all manual adjusting. Make sure you have a new vacuum hose connecting the advance make sure it is not leaking or it is so old it collapses when you accelerate. For the temp if it remains in the high normal range on these hot days that is ok winter is coming. When you get this car dialed in you will be surprised with the performance. I had a 69 dodge dart with the same 318 in it.
Can anyone give me some pointers on cold starting my Plymouth fury 2. It’s been struggling with the start up even when I give it some gas. Then I get to the point where I fill the carburetor
I agree with other commenters. Check for a crossed wire and then I would check timing. I would also rebuild the carb and replace the choke. Cheap parts.
Randy , try the timing.
That was my thinking also
Nice Atari couldn’t tell which one it is but mad respects man
The good old 5.2L 318 CID V-8 and the Torque-Flite 727 3 speed automatic bullet proof
You should ditch the points on this one and put the electronic Petronix in the distributor. It’s backfiring too because it needs the air cleaner bolted on.
New wires in the correct order. It ran better at the beginning of the episode. I bet wires are switched. And as someone else, get the electronic ignition. You don’t need to be messing with points.
Leaning towards timing issue. Is there a filter screen in the carb ?
that car look awesome in my collection.
The kove speaker has awesome sound I got one with Randy’s discount but I walk like 2 feet away from it and it’s started breaking up
Classic muscle car love them !
195 is to high also you don’t have a shroud on the radiator. It really needs that. Go with 185.
Absolutely it will run hot with out the shroud, totally agree.
Definitely requires a 180 thermostat. The 195 deg. is what us old-timers called a winter thermostat and got installed every fall for better heater operation.
Burp the radiator to get the air out. Check the float on the carb to make sure it is clean and not sticking.
180 is correct thermostat but I don't think 195 would almost peg the temp gauge like that. But there's only one way to find out, change thermostat to 180. I love love love that car Mr. Shear, it's appealing in it's originality!
With engine running slacken the distributor hold down bolts and turn distributor body clockwise or anti clockwise until engine runs smooth then retighten bolts.
Ya its says 195f thermostat I would put a 160f to be safe also missing the fan shroud makes a big difference make sure to put the air filter for dirt an it helps it run better love ur videos 😬
I like that speaker!!!
Did u set the gap on the new plugs
That radiator cap could fall onto the fan when left on the radiator while the engine is running. Always check for items of this type before starting a car you are working on.