Why work all that hemstitching around the piece of fabric first and THEN work a herringbone stitch to hold the hem down?!?! I choose to remove the groups of threads, carefully, from an appropriate distance from the edge of the material (three times the width of the finished hem for a handkerchief), fold the hem (baste if necessary), and work the hemstitch to catch down the hem at the same time as gathering the loose threads into small, evenly sized groups (usually the same number of threads as I removed earlier, to obtain squarish holes). I then go back around and work the same hemstitch on the 'body' side of the holes, which is always quicker than the first circuit of hemstitching. It puzzles me why anyone would use a stitch designed specifically for hemming without making a hem at the same time! (Oh, well, it takes all sorts, as my Mum used to say!) I'd also be tempted to remove as much bulk from those corners as possible by mitring (mitering?) them: cut a triangle off each corner before hemstitching. To prevent fraying, I use a little flour and water paste (you don't need much flour) to stiffen the cut edges of the triangle. Hope this helps any future viewers who also thought hemstitching was about making hems!
@@murieldenoixeaton8994 I'm glad you agree with me; I was a bit puzzled when I saw this way of doing things! Confession time: I struggle with mitred corners and was writing theoretically when I said I cut a triangle off! My current (handkerchief) project is going to have four different corners, I think, as I'm trying the quilter's way of mitering and also cutting off a square instead of a triangle, neither of which have worked nicely yet. However, now I know not to take my drawn threads all the way back to the edge of the handkerchief, my next hankie should be much better. Many thanks for that info, Muriel! The flour paste method is great for controlling linen warps on a loom, so I'm guessing it'll be ok on a linen hankie. It should hold everything in place, allow you to stitch through it, and wash out easily. However, I haven't actually tried it on a hankie yet, but did intend to. Now I know not to pull threads right to the edge, there may be more stability there and I'll not need it. By withdrawing threads all the way to the edge, though, I did manage to obtain nice little hemstitched squares at each corner, which I like. I'm making 6 hankies and I've just started on my 3rd; by the 6th one I may have got everything right!
@@Cellottia Glad to see your comment. If you are anywhere on Facebook, you should find me there too (Muriel Eaton out of Montreal, Canada). Let's chat we seem to be kindred spirits ! I happen to do a lot of linens for church purpose and came up with a manual recently (found at the top of this page : www.montreal.anglican.ca/forms-guidelines which you can download free of charge. It's called On Pins and Needles. You can also reach me at murieleaton@gmail,com. I could also send you a part of this book which explains how to get the mitered corners done easily.
I have spotted you (I think) on Facebook and sent a message to you there. If perchance you reply to the message I left there, I could then send you a diagram and text to make a great mitered corner.
I agree with Katherine, unfortunately. I am afraid I see several mistakes. A) You are working with a very thick fabric, and that is why you can get away with the ruler in two spots of the same line at the beginning. On a finer fabric, one can't do this. B) In a drawn-thread hem, the fabric thread is not removed all the way to the edge, but only to where it will meet the perpendicular lines. C) The drawn-thread hem should be treated as a hem and not as a separate stitch line. I am curious to know why you wanted to do this in two steps (the inner stitch-line being the third when it could be second). D) You seem to have had trouble also with the corner, when a mitered corner would have looked a lot neater, what with all this basting. The corner method you are showing becomes a lot too thick. You may want to find out more and make a better video, particularly if you expect to teach that way. However, I see no problem with the video production itself however, and I hope you will do some research in the future for a better demonstration. Let me know if I can help you, since I do this type of work all the time. I can be reached on Facebook.
My review above may sound harsh but I think you need to know before other specialists see your video and leave worse comments. You have at least tried to show how you work while I am unable to make videos of what I do (just pictures in my case). I do hope you will find me (Muriel Eaton) on Facebook. I hail from Montreal in Canada but I am in France right now. Please let me know!
That looks really good!!
This was so helpful thank you so much!!! I cannot wait to try it on my linen work 😊
Beautiful work!
Why work all that hemstitching around the piece of fabric first and THEN work a herringbone stitch to hold the hem down?!?! I choose to remove the groups of threads, carefully, from an appropriate distance from the edge of the material (three times the width of the finished hem for a handkerchief), fold the hem (baste if necessary), and work the hemstitch to catch down the hem at the same time as gathering the loose threads into small, evenly sized groups (usually the same number of threads as I removed earlier, to obtain squarish holes). I then go back around and work the same hemstitch on the 'body' side of the holes, which is always quicker than the first circuit of hemstitching.
It puzzles me why anyone would use a stitch designed specifically for hemming without making a hem at the same time! (Oh, well, it takes all sorts, as my Mum used to say!)
I'd also be tempted to remove as much bulk from those corners as possible by mitring (mitering?) them: cut a triangle off each corner before hemstitching. To prevent fraying, I use a little flour and water paste (you don't need much flour) to stiffen the cut edges of the triangle.
Hope this helps any future viewers who also thought hemstitching was about making hems!
I have added my own comment to yours. Basically, I see four errors.
@@murieldenoixeaton8994 I'm glad you agree with me; I was a bit puzzled when I saw this way of doing things! Confession time: I struggle with mitred corners and was writing theoretically when I said I cut a triangle off! My current (handkerchief) project is going to have four different corners, I think, as I'm trying the quilter's way of mitering and also cutting off a square instead of a triangle, neither of which have worked nicely yet. However, now I know not to take my drawn threads all the way back to the edge of the handkerchief, my next hankie should be much better. Many thanks for that info, Muriel!
The flour paste method is great for controlling linen warps on a loom, so I'm guessing it'll be ok on a linen hankie. It should hold everything in place, allow you to stitch through it, and wash out easily. However, I haven't actually tried it on a hankie yet, but did intend to. Now I know not to pull threads right to the edge, there may be more stability there and I'll not need it.
By withdrawing threads all the way to the edge, though, I did manage to obtain nice little hemstitched squares at each corner, which I like. I'm making 6 hankies and I've just started on my 3rd; by the 6th one I may have got everything right!
@@Cellottia Glad to see your comment. If you are anywhere on Facebook, you should find me there too (Muriel Eaton out of Montreal, Canada). Let's chat we seem to be kindred spirits ! I happen to do a lot of linens for church purpose and came up with a manual recently (found at the top of this page : www.montreal.anglican.ca/forms-guidelines which you can download free of charge. It's called On Pins and Needles. You can also reach me at murieleaton@gmail,com. I could also send you a part of this book which explains how to get the mitered corners done easily.
I have spotted you (I think) on Facebook and sent a message to you there. If perchance you reply to the message I left there, I could then send you a diagram and text to make a great mitered corner.
Thanks for sharing! Very helpful.
V nice work. Kindly tell which fabric r u using
Aída fabric, thanks
A very useful video. Thanks a lot for sharing :)
I agree with Katherine, unfortunately. I am afraid I see several mistakes. A) You are working with a very thick fabric, and that is why you can get away with the ruler in two spots of the same line at the beginning. On a finer fabric, one can't do this. B) In a drawn-thread hem, the fabric thread is not removed all the way to the edge, but only to where it will meet the perpendicular lines. C) The drawn-thread hem should be treated as a hem and not as a separate stitch line. I am curious to know why you wanted to do this in two steps (the inner stitch-line being the third when it could be second). D) You seem to have had trouble also with the corner, when a mitered corner would have looked a lot neater, what with all this basting. The corner method you are showing becomes a lot too thick. You may want to find out more and make a better video, particularly if you expect to teach that way.
However, I see no problem with the video production itself however, and I hope you will do some research in the future for a better demonstration. Let me know if I can help you, since I do this type of work all the time. I can be reached on Facebook.
My review above may sound harsh but I think you need to know before other specialists see your video and leave worse comments. You have at least tried to show how you work while I am unable to make videos of what I do (just pictures in my case). I do hope you will find me (Muriel Eaton) on Facebook. I hail from Montreal in Canada but I am in France right now. Please let me know!
Bad camera
Please redo with best focus; was very blurry, to me. Thanks.