Thank you very much, Abraham ! I had the same phenomen on my iMac 24" Early 2008 A1225. Thanks to your video, I checked the heat pipe and it was exactly the same problem. Even the hole was on the same position. I replaced the whole GPU cooling system by a used one from eBay for 30€. Now the iMac works stable and quiet again. Thank you very much for this brilliant video !!!!
+Olaf Kehm Hi! I possibly have the same issue... But I can't find a cooling system for my iMac27 mid2010 on eBay. Could you please share the info on the ebay seller? Thanks a lot in advance!!
Thanks! I just fixed my mid-2007 iMac by changing the GPU cooling system. I had the same issue: GPU Diode very high temperature, around 100°C in a minute instead of now around 45°C for more than 5 minutes :)
Had the same issue. Just replaced the heatsink in my 2009 iMac. Never say any indication of a leak, but the used replacement heatsink took care of the issue. Was running 90-100c with the old heatsink. Now running 50-55c with "new" heatsink.
Hey Bryan, I have a early 2009 iMac, 3.06 GHz Core 2 Duo (E8435). It shuts down randomly, wasn't sure if it was graphics failure, did a little searching online and thought is was a bad power supply. The back of the display is very hot, top leftish if facing the LCD when reaching behind. Started searching and brought me to this video. I'm wondering if you had similar issues with your 2009? is yours and Early 2009? Any info would help, I've not yet taken it apart. Can you tell me what model you have and if your new heatsink still held up. Thank my friend
You can still use that empty copper tube coil. Make a bigger hole in it for squeezing in thermal paste inside, then solder aluminum over the hole or just use electric tape. Heck you can try a cut out of soldering silicone mat to fit on the space. This silicone absorbs more heat than thermal pastes/copper/silver/
Thanks for this, it helped confirm my suspicions that I had a faulty heat pipe. I had purchased a used E6410 off Ebay which would throttle itself down from 105 degrees constantly. Other symptoms were very hot CPU block, but cool air coming from the fan radiator. A close look revealed a pinhole leak in the pipe like yours. Thanks!
Just wondering - If the coolant type is known, why not drill a tiny hole in the tubing, fill the required cc's of coolant/refrigerant using a hypodermic syringe and then solder it shut? I've been researching trying to find out what kind of coolant is in these tubes without any success. Any pointers would be great.
@@bakkikudva thanks for the quick reply, is your mac an early 2009 iMac with the Geforce GT130 video card? I was wondering if your computer was turning off when it got hot? That's what's happening with mine. Do you feel replacing the card helped? If you have the same mac, as mine I'd like to know what card you put in? Is your Mac still working? Trying to ask people with the same early 2009 imac a1225 if they had the same symptoms as i have. Any help in answering my 4 questions would help.
@@reel_images No it was AMD. In my case after running for a few minutes the screen would go black. It still kept running as shown by running fans and the diagnostic LEDs on the motherboard remaining green. I installed Macfan app and could see the temperatures. From a cold start the computer would stay on long enough for me to log in and check the temps of CPU and GPU. It was showing that the GPU temp would keep climbing and go past 190 or so when the screen went blank. So I knew that it was the graphics card. Initially I thought it could be the heat sink compound which had dried out, so I took the card out and applied fresh heatsink compound which did not help. While inspecting later I saw a pinhole in the tube which goes from the heat sink to the radiator. It was where the tubing had been crimped to close it off during manufacturing. The hole was small enough that it took a few years (just long enough to be past Apple Care :-( for all the coolant to leak out. Once I was convinced that it was indeed the GPU I luckily found one on Ebay for about $100. After putting it in the iMac worked and the temps stayed within normal range. A few years after that I sold the computer.
@@bakkikudva Thanks very much for the detail in your reply. I really appreciate the comments, this helps all of us who may think its one thing when in fact it's another. When you say "was convinced that it was indeed the GPU... found one on Ebay for about $100. After putting it in the iMac worked". I would say you mean, you found an new heat sync unit, like with the coolant pipes? Not a new graphics card, correct? I just want to make sure I understand right. It sounds like you replaced the cooling unit that goes over the GPU and CPU, right? Thanks again
My 24" iMac had the same problem. The heat pipe corroded and formed a tiny hole. The copper wall got so thin then entire end crushed under slight pressure. Installed a replacement heatsink from eBay and the iMac is good as new. Thank you.
Hi. After I take the glass and I unplug the monitor and take it out, can I still plug it in to see if they fans area even turning? I cannot hear or feel any air coming out of the top at all even putting a little piece of toilet paper on them it did not move.
I purchased a new heat sink and Arctic Silver thermal paste to try and fix my overheating GPU. Can I re-use the thick thermal compound found on the 4 memory chips, or does that also need to be replaced?
Thank You For The Info, I Have The Same Problem And I Thought It Was The Data Cable But Now That I Saw This Video I Remember That About 2 Months Ago My Computer Had Moisture Between The Screen And LCD!
I have the exact same issue. I'm new a opening imacs. We have the same imac model. My question to you is the cable cord that the power supply and the lcd are connected with. Does you just pull it off? I've tried pulling it but it wont budge im afraid i'll break it. Is there another way of doing this? Plz help and thank you.
just got an iMac of about the same year, I am disassembling it now, I have the same issue of GPU overheating. Thank you so much for the video as I would not have looked for that at all!
I have the late 2009 27" but it needs a new graphics card. I believe that it went bad due to the heat. I contacted Apple but they will not admit that its a design defect, and that they will only repair iMacs from 2011. I may buy a replacement card online, and was thinking if it made sense to drill some 1/8" holes in the back of the case, adjacent to the heatsink. Then attach a usb powered fan over the holes to pull the heat out...???
Were you able to get anything done? I have the same 2009 27" and it would also get very hot which I believe is the reason the graphics card has gone bad. Apple has denied repair on this unit also. Maybe we can make some noise together and have both our machines fixed?
Maybe if we take the broken machines and place them at the doors of their headquarters office and chain ourselves, along with the machines, to the doors. Lol. Apple doesn't give a f^%k unless it hurts their bottom line.
I'm using Temperature monitor and apparently my 24" iMacs Graphics processor chip is running at 106 C and the 'heatsink' and 'temperature D' are running at around 120 C and the fans are pretty loud. Do you reckon it could be a similar problem?
Well, it's quite later, but, i've got this exact problem on a HP All in one computer, with a core i3 that was overheating, then i noticed that the heatsink wasn't doing it's job, i've managed that doing a litle hole on the heatsink the injected car radiator fluid inside, then sealed with epoxy glue, it's working like a charm, i've tried with other liquids and the car radiator fluid gave me the best results.
I have clean and added new thermal paste on cpu . Now my early 2008 Imac lags when I turn on or run pro grams I don't know what I did wrong make it do that
Could this be what is happening to my Mid 2011 iMac that has been overheating for a while now? And when I say overheating I mean it gets super hot to the touch in the top front display towards the middled it irradiates the heat to the sides of the display and in the top portion of the back of the monitor. I have no temperatures for it; I guess I have to download one of those apps that tell me that.
I did not find a fix for it. It kept doing it for a while and I kept the little fan, I had pointed at the back of it, on all the time. I had already started shutting it off daily when it started getting overheated and after a while it stop doing it. I mean, it still gets hot when I use it for several hours consecutively, but not like before. That led me to think that maybe it was because it was summer and somehow it was getting hotter, even with my AC on. So I guess I see how it goes starting at the end of this month since I live in the South and we really don't have a Spring. Today was a hot day already, but everything since normal so far. Hopefully it docent happen, cause I don't see me being able to shed $1500 anytime soon for newer model. I have planned to sit down for a day or a few hours soon just to delete and/or transfer anything I do not need on it to keep the memory low. I know I have a bunch of images and svgs and other files for work that may be adding up by now and that I need to organize in an external hard drive anyway so that will probably help even more. I hope yours stops cause it freaked me out every day making me think that that was going to be the day that my comp was going to stop working.
Hello everyone, I have an iMac 27 " Mid 2011 Core i7, CTO, began to have problems the screen, appeared green stripes, then, no longer wanted to turn on the screen never again, but inside was still heard running. A "Reballing" was done to the video card and the screen started to operate without any problems or details on the LCD, but it happened that after 5 minutes of being turned on, it suddenly went out and immediately afterwards it was reinitiated, just to turn it on To shut down, and to restart without having even logged in again, did not even load the Apple logo. The temperature data by iStat were: CPU Core 1 to 4 = 47º CPU Heatsink = 45º CPU Proximity = 49º GPU Die = 109º (Temperature in which it was turned off) GPU Heatsink = 57º Hard Drive = 45º Incoming Air = 26º Logic Board Proximity = 47º Optical Drive Proximity 47º The technician who is trying to fix it has not been able to find the solution. Anyone have any idea what to do? I could communicate with anyone who has been able to solve a similar problem, to guide me and avoid throwing this machine.
+Abraham Levit wow... chill out! :P He is asking if there is a fix for the heatsink, as the you cannot source a new heatsink from Apple or even Graphics Card now that these machines are vintage. The only way to obtain a new heatsink would be to get a new GPU/heatsink module... part 661-4663 :)
i have a 2010 27" iMac, turn on, 5 seconds later black screen. i have been looking for the problem on the internet over a year now and can't find the problem. its obviously not a heat problem as its been switched off all day. one time i turned the brightness down fully and it worked fine and once i go past 3rd bar brightness it would go black. but now i put brightness fully down and still persists going black screen. i am now using second screen with mini display port and that works fine. i had never had graphical issues on screen to make me believe its the graphics card. so i really don't know what the problem is. the second problem i have with my iMac is installing windows with bootcamp. it will install and then when it restarts it says no bootable device with black screen and white writing, like bios screen type. I'm using an external samsung disk drive that has installed windows before so the internal superdrive is fucked and spits disks out and i will get it repaired and try installing again but i doubt its the problem. i can't get my head around these problems and i want to repair it all my self as i like fixing things and learning. if someone can help me in the right direction ill be thankful and much appreciated.
This is not true of the tiny hole "leaking fluids" these types of heat sinks have no coolant in them, the heat it displaced from the CPU and GPU via thermal compound which allows the hollow copper tubing to "draw away" or displace the heat from the processors. If you decide to tackle this repair you must remove the heat sink from the processor and gently remove old crusty thermal compound and replace with new silver thermal compound which is less likely to dry out in the next 5 years. Although other than the tiny hole and liquid statement this was a decent video.
50% true, if the tubes are smashed flat like his pictures show, then NO vapor in them. If the tubes are round, like, tubes, then yes they use the phase change fluid. cheap vs. pricey
Don Langman There actually WAS a liquid in these tubes. I have overheating GPU and discovered dark brown dried up stuff on the motherboard. Also I found a tiny tiny hole in the heatpipes with white oxidated salty like stuff. . So Abraham is definitely right with this! Yes the pipes are flattened but hollow for sure as I investigated myself. Just want you to know. I would like to know what this stuff could be inside the heatpipes... I will try to repair. And solder.
You must have missed basic science, the evidence of liquid based oxidation is present around the micro hole in the heat pipes that ALWAYS carry phase fluid. if the tips of the heat pipe are crimped and soldered closed, they contain phase fluid. Why do people pretend they know shit, don't you realize that tech specialists get irritated at posers like you?
Once you put new high quality Thermal Paste on the CPU and GPU the correct way, temps drop like when bodies hit the floor! My 2011 kick ass maxed out i7 MBP's CPU's idle at 32c and my GPU idles at 26c degrees. Sometimes the GPU idles at 20c when my room is cool. But these temps are un heard of in laptops, and all it takes is the right amount and correct ways to repaste high quality thermal paste such as the amazing IC7 Diamond on any CPU/GPU!
Thank you very much, Abraham ! I had the same phenomen on my iMac 24" Early 2008 A1225. Thanks to your video, I checked the heat pipe and it was exactly the same problem. Even the hole was on the same position.
I replaced the whole GPU cooling system by a used one from eBay for 30€. Now the iMac works stable and quiet again.
Thank you very much for this brilliant video !!!!
+Olaf Kehm Hi! I possibly have the same issue... But I can't find a cooling system for my iMac27 mid2010 on eBay. Could you please share the info on the ebay seller? Thanks a lot in advance!!
Hi! It is an eBay shop from Spain, since I am from Europe. Here you can find it: www.ebay.de/usr/tecnicosclic
Thanks! I just fixed my mid-2007 iMac by changing the GPU cooling system. I had the same issue: GPU Diode very high temperature, around 100°C in a minute instead of now around 45°C for more than 5 minutes :)
Had the same issue. Just replaced the heatsink in my 2009 iMac. Never say any indication of a leak, but the used replacement heatsink took care of the issue. Was running 90-100c with the old heatsink. Now running 50-55c with "new" heatsink.
I have the same problem with my Imac 24" 2008. 90-110c then black screen. I'm going to look for an used heatsink. Did you change the thermal paste?
Hey Bryan, I have a early 2009 iMac, 3.06 GHz Core 2 Duo (E8435). It shuts down randomly, wasn't sure if it was graphics failure, did a little searching online and thought is was a bad power supply. The back of the display is very hot, top leftish if facing the LCD when reaching behind. Started searching and brought me to this video. I'm wondering if you had similar issues with your 2009? is yours and Early 2009? Any info would help, I've not yet taken it apart. Can you tell me what model you have and if your new heatsink still held up.
Thank my friend
You can still use that empty copper tube coil. Make a bigger hole in it for squeezing in thermal paste inside, then solder aluminum over the hole or just use electric tape. Heck you can try a cut out of soldering silicone mat to fit on the space. This silicone absorbs more heat than thermal pastes/copper/silver/
thermal paste would not work, it'd be like shoving clay inside your car radiator. a very specific fluid goes inside that tube, nothing else.
Thanks for this, it helped confirm my suspicions that I had a faulty heat pipe. I had purchased a used E6410 off Ebay which would throttle itself down from 105 degrees constantly. Other symptoms were very hot CPU block, but cool air coming from the fan radiator. A close look revealed a pinhole leak in the pipe like yours. Thanks!
Very nicely spotted my friend.. couldnt you inject coolant in and spot weld it like what plumbers do with copper pipes?
Just wondering - If the coolant type is known, why not drill a tiny hole in the tubing, fill the required cc's of coolant/refrigerant using a hypodermic syringe and then solder it shut? I've been researching trying to find out what kind of coolant is in these tubes without any success. Any pointers would be great.
Bakki did you ever find out what fluid to use, did you fix your pipe? I'm looking into this on a early 2009 iMac
@@reel_images Sorry, no I didn’t. I ended up buying a graphics card on eBay.
@@bakkikudva thanks for the quick reply, is your mac an early 2009 iMac with the Geforce GT130 video card? I was wondering if your computer was turning off when it got hot? That's what's happening with mine. Do you feel replacing the card helped? If you have the same mac, as mine I'd like to know what card you put in? Is your Mac still working? Trying to ask people with the same early 2009 imac a1225 if they had the same symptoms as i have. Any help in answering my 4 questions would help.
@@reel_images No it was AMD. In my case after running for a few minutes the screen would go black. It still kept running as shown by running fans and the diagnostic LEDs on the motherboard remaining green. I installed Macfan app and could see the temperatures. From a cold start the computer would stay on long enough for me to log in and check the temps of CPU and GPU. It was showing that the GPU temp would keep climbing and go past 190 or so when the screen went blank. So I knew that it was the graphics card. Initially I thought it could be the heat sink compound which had dried out, so I took the card out and applied fresh heatsink compound which did not help. While inspecting later I saw a pinhole in the tube which goes from the heat sink to the radiator. It was where the tubing had been crimped to close it off during manufacturing. The hole was small enough that it took a few years (just long enough to be past Apple Care :-( for all the coolant to leak out. Once I was convinced that it was indeed the GPU I luckily found one on Ebay for about $100. After putting it in the iMac worked and the temps stayed within normal range. A few years after that I sold the computer.
@@bakkikudva Thanks very much for the detail in your reply. I really appreciate the comments, this helps all of us who may think its one thing when in fact it's another. When you say "was convinced that it was indeed the GPU... found one on Ebay for about $100. After putting it in the iMac worked". I would say you mean, you found an new heat sync unit, like with the coolant pipes? Not a new graphics card, correct? I just want to make sure I understand right. It sounds like you replaced the cooling unit that goes over the GPU and CPU, right?
Thanks again
My 24" iMac had the same problem. The heat pipe corroded and formed a tiny hole. The copper wall got so thin then entire end crushed under slight pressure. Installed a replacement heatsink from eBay and the iMac is good as new. Thank you.
This video helped me find the overheating issue with the first 24" Aluminium iMac I'm currently repairing. Thank you so much for uploading.
It would have been nice if you explained how you replace the part. But thank you for what you did give us.
Hi. After I take the glass and I unplug the monitor and take it out, can I still plug it in to see if they fans area even turning? I cannot hear or feel any air coming out of the top at all even putting a little piece of toilet paper on them it did not move.
I purchased a new heat sink and Arctic Silver thermal paste to try and fix my overheating GPU. Can I re-use the thick thermal compound found on the 4 memory chips, or does that also need to be replaced?
Thank You For The Info, I Have The Same Problem And I Thought It Was The Data Cable But Now That I Saw This Video I Remember That About 2 Months Ago My Computer Had Moisture Between The Screen And LCD!
I have the exact same issue. I'm new a opening imacs. We have the same imac model. My question to you is the cable cord that the power supply and the lcd are connected with. Does you just pull it off? I've tried pulling it but it wont budge im afraid i'll break it. Is there another way of doing this? Plz help and thank you.
just got an iMac of about the same year, I am disassembling it now, I have the same issue of GPU overheating. Thank you so much for the video as I would not have looked for that at all!
Benjamin Bloedorn why so many people got the same problem i guess that how they make them so that is why they only give you 3yrs warranty
I have the late 2009 27" but it needs a new graphics card. I believe that it went bad due to the heat. I contacted Apple but they will not admit that its a design defect, and that they will only repair iMacs from 2011. I may buy a replacement card online, and was thinking if it made sense to drill some 1/8" holes in the back of the case, adjacent to the heatsink. Then attach a usb powered fan over the holes to pull the heat out...???
Were you able to get anything done? I have the same 2009 27" and it would also get very hot which I believe is the reason the graphics card has gone bad. Apple has denied repair on this unit also. Maybe we can make some noise together and have both our machines fixed?
Maybe if we take the broken machines and place them at the doors of their headquarters office and chain ourselves, along with the machines, to the doors. Lol. Apple doesn't give a f^%k unless it hurts their bottom line.
I'm using Temperature monitor and apparently my 24" iMacs Graphics processor chip is running at 106 C and the 'heatsink' and 'temperature D' are running at around 120 C and the fans are pretty loud. Do you reckon it could be a similar problem?
That is how my mac was behaving.
Abraham Levit weird, I've opened mine up and it seems to have a hole in the exact same place
Abraham Levit Do you have a tip where I can buy the heat sink from?
Thanks
Dan Ford Try eBay. I looked up a few, and I believe they go anywhere between $25-40 USD.
Dr. Mario Thanks, will have a look.
How much would a new radiator set you back?
Well, it's quite later, but, i've got this exact problem on a HP All in one computer, with a core i3 that was overheating, then i noticed that the heatsink wasn't doing it's job, i've managed that doing a litle hole on the heatsink the injected car radiator fluid inside, then sealed with epoxy glue, it's working like a charm, i've tried with other liquids and the car radiator fluid gave me the best results.
I have clean and added new thermal paste on cpu . Now my early 2008 Imac lags when I turn on or run pro grams I don't know what I did wrong make it do that
Great video. Thank you. Very helpful.
Could this be what is happening to my Mid 2011 iMac that has been overheating for a while now? And when I say overheating I mean it gets super hot to the touch in the top front display towards the middled it irradiates the heat to the sides of the display and in the top portion of the back of the monitor. I have no temperatures for it; I guess I have to download one of those apps that tell me that.
I just started having this problem. Have you found a fix to this?
I did not find a fix for it. It kept doing it for a while and I kept the little fan, I had pointed at the back of it, on all the time. I had already started shutting it off daily when it started getting overheated and after a while it stop doing it. I mean, it still gets hot when I use it for several hours consecutively, but not like before. That led me to think that maybe it was because it was summer and somehow it was getting hotter, even with my AC on. So I guess I see how it goes starting at the end of this month since I live in the South and we really don't have a Spring. Today was a hot day already, but everything since normal so far. Hopefully it docent happen, cause I don't see me being able to shed $1500 anytime soon for newer model. I have planned to sit down for a day or a few hours soon just to delete and/or transfer anything I do not need on it to keep the memory low. I know I have a bunch of images and svgs and other files for work that may be adding up by now and that I need to organize in an external hard drive anyway so that will probably help even more.
I hope yours stops cause it freaked me out every day making me think that that was going to be the day that my comp was going to stop working.
Hello everyone, I have an iMac 27 "
Mid 2011 Core i7, CTO, began to have problems the screen, appeared green stripes, then, no longer wanted to turn on the screen never again, but inside was still heard running. A "Reballing" was done to the video card and the screen started to operate without any problems or details on the LCD, but it happened that after 5 minutes of being turned on, it suddenly went out and immediately afterwards it was reinitiated, just to turn it on To shut down, and to restart without having even logged in again, did not even load the Apple logo.
The temperature data by iStat were:
CPU Core 1 to 4 = 47º
CPU Heatsink = 45º
CPU Proximity = 49º
GPU Die = 109º (Temperature in which it was turned off)
GPU Heatsink = 57º
Hard Drive = 45º
Incoming Air = 26º
Logic Board Proximity = 47º
Optical Drive Proximity 47º
The technician who is trying to fix it has not been able to find the solution. Anyone have any idea what to do?
I could communicate with anyone who has been able to solve a similar problem, to guide me and avoid throwing this machine.
Imac heatsinks are undersized.
Hi all! Looking for a diagram that show the air flow in my late 2009 27 inch iMac.
thanks man . i have the same problem. after i start video call it get to hot and turns off
Is there a fix for this? Or would I need to buy a new GPU?
WAS I NOT CLEAR?? You need to replace the HEAT SINK! Not the GPU card.
+Abraham Levit wow... chill out! :P He is asking if there is a fix for the heatsink, as the you cannot source a new heatsink from Apple or even Graphics Card now that these machines are vintage. The only way to obtain a new heatsink would be to get a new GPU/heatsink module... part 661-4663 :)
+Derek Carmody You can get a replacement heatsink on amazon, ebay, macpalace, etc.
No, you were not clear on the video plus you didn't go step by step on how to do the replacement.
My imac is 4yrs now i got it for and am having the same heating problem
i have a 2010 27" iMac, turn on, 5 seconds later black screen. i have been looking for the problem on the internet over a year now and can't find the problem. its obviously not a heat problem as its been switched off all day. one time i turned the brightness down fully and it worked fine and once i go past 3rd bar brightness it would go black. but now i put brightness fully down and still persists going black screen. i am now using second screen with mini display port and that works fine. i had never had graphical issues on screen to make me believe its the graphics card. so i really don't know what the problem is. the second problem i have with my iMac is installing windows with bootcamp. it will install and then when it restarts it says no bootable device with black screen and white writing, like bios screen type. I'm using an external samsung disk drive that has installed windows before so the internal superdrive is fucked and spits disks out and i will get it repaired and try installing again but i doubt its the problem. i can't get my head around these problems and i want to repair it all my self as i like fixing things and learning. if someone can help me in the right direction ill be thankful and much appreciated.
This is not true of the tiny hole "leaking fluids" these types of heat sinks have no coolant in them, the heat it displaced from the CPU and GPU via thermal compound which allows the hollow copper tubing to "draw away" or displace the heat from the processors. If you decide to tackle this repair you must remove the heat sink from the processor and gently remove old crusty thermal compound and replace with new silver thermal compound which is less likely to dry out in the next 5 years. Although other than the tiny hole and liquid statement this was a decent video.
Don is wrong. Heat pipes absolutely use phase change fluid to effectuate thermal transfer.
50% true, if the tubes are smashed flat like his pictures show, then NO vapor in them. If the tubes are round, like, tubes, then yes they use the phase change fluid. cheap vs. pricey
Don Langman There actually WAS a liquid in these tubes. I have overheating GPU and discovered dark brown dried up stuff on the motherboard. Also I found a tiny tiny hole in the heatpipes with white oxidated salty like stuff. . So Abraham is definitely right with this! Yes the pipes are flattened but hollow for sure as I investigated myself. Just want you to know. I would like to know what this stuff could be inside the heatpipes... I will try to repair. And solder.
You must have missed basic science, the evidence of liquid based oxidation is present around the micro hole in the heat pipes that ALWAYS carry phase fluid. if the tips of the heat pipe are crimped and soldered closed, they contain phase fluid. Why do people pretend they know shit, don't you realize that tech specialists get irritated at posers like you?
Once you put new high quality Thermal Paste on the CPU and GPU the correct way, temps drop like when bodies hit the floor!
My 2011 kick ass maxed out i7 MBP's CPU's idle at 32c and my GPU idles at 26c degrees. Sometimes the GPU idles at 20c when my room is cool. But these temps are un heard of in laptops, and all it takes is the right amount and correct ways to repaste high quality thermal paste such as the amazing IC7 Diamond on any CPU/GPU!
Any suggestions on a detailed process of replacing thermal paste on the CPU/GPU? Thanks.
GREGORY ICE small pee or long line. Just very little.
Now that was helpful.
fastest solution and cheap for all is install smcfan control
+nino -aka don't do that.
Title reads how to fix it, not what the problem is. Title should read find the issue not how to fix!
hah ebay going off
This video points out the problem very clearly, but you did not say- "Replace the heat sink," and a beginner would need to know that :)
thanks obama