With thermal paste you dont just glob it on you only need a small drop and with a plastic blade you rake it. Key tip you remove the old paste and clean the surface of the heatsink. Too much thermal paste will create the opposite effect and insulate heat. Best thermal paste is artic silver or gold. And use a grounding strap when touching electronic components.
Yea only problem is that it's bad advice. The thermal paste under these type is finals doesn't I sulfate heat because it's such a small surface area. And mor important here is the fact you just really suggested artic silvery cpu thermal paste in rf work. HUUUUUUGE NONO. this isn't just my opinion. Ask any tech that relaly knows his stuff that is hands down the absolute worst possible thermal paste you could EVER put in a radio or amp. Pls do not do that to your radio
The 68pF cap added across C59 should be an NPO type because of the type of circuit t's used in. The NPO types have a very low temperature coefficient so your RF circuit won't drift to much during temperature excursions. Also it should be rated at 500V .
Pretty sure you should tighten the screw and/or nut BEFORE you solder-in your power transistor. That way the torque from the screwdriver won't put stress on the soldered-in leads and possibly damage the circuit-board's traces. I was personally shown that this can and does happen. Also, it's a pretty good idea to de-solder all leads before you attempt to remove a component. And remove ALL solder from the pads before you remove any component legs. Everything works smoother when you do. Just sayin'. Nice video. Informative. Thanks!
In addition to new solder, try using some flux paste, such as what is used for SMD rework (not what's used for plumbing) when using the braid, it generally helps it wick up quite a bit, then use 91-99% alcohol for cleanup. BTW, it may be illegal to transmit with a modified CB, but people have been doing all forms of mods since day one and the FCC usually only busts people running huge kickers or someone causing nasty interference. They have more important things to do than busting people with modified radios putting out less than 100 watts.
Yep, agreed on the FCC,.. I don't get on CB anymore..no one really local around here to talk to,.. they all flew the coop!! As far as the flux,.. that's a good tip! Thanks..
jamienoel: Newbie question!! Do you apply flux to the solder on the board, then put the braid on, then heat the braid? Or did I miss something? Thanks in advance for your answer!! 73s, Norman.
@@norman2999 when removing solder, flux the braid lightly. You can use cheap plumbing paste for removing the solder. But use quality flux for applying solder
I am so doing this is I ever find a yard sale, thrift shop, or cheap craigslist 29. I have a 29 but I have had it for years, it was my first "good" radio. I can't bring my self to put it under the knife, as my first patient. If I successfully do the operation on one of her sisters, then she gets augmented : ) Great video! If you aren't running an amp can you just leave it with a 4 watt dead key?
Yes I don't blame you. You can find those once in a while on Craigslist for cheap or other places. Yes, absolutely if you aren't running an amp you can leave it at 4 watt dead key..
Is the variable dead key adjustment actually an output power adjustment? If you lower it all the way is the power all the way down even when you talk into the microphone?
HI John... I believe they are correlated, but not necessarily linear. If you lower it all the way down and talk in the mic you're still going to get output (IF I remember right). It probably won't sound very good if you do it that way.
Swapping out the final(s) will give more power? I have a 1978 RCA Co-Pilot14T302 SSB CB radio. How do I find out which new finals to swap in, ensuring compatibility, of course!! Thanks for answering!!
@@JLPicard440: Thank you for answering so fast!! How & where to find out a compatible final? Once I have the number of the final, how & where do I go to find one that'll work in my CB?
@@norman2999 you might try to Google that model number to see if there are any mods/tuning tricks available for it... most of the time you can get more power from the final that's already in there... its usually not worth just changing the final just for a few watts... no one will ever hear the difference...
@@JLPicard440: I found the number on the final. It's: Mistubishi symbol C1969 65Y-BH I googled it and couldn't find anything at all. How would I find a replacement part for it? Is there any way to check it while it's still on the board or is removal necessary? Also: is the final something that could degrade over time, or is it a case of either it works or it doesn't? Please forgive my newbie questions, but if I don't ask, I will never know!! Besides, EVERYBODY had a first time to ask a question!! I'm very fortunate to have a knowledgeable person such as your good self to ask these questions of. I really do appreciate your taking time to answer my newbie questions. So if you could answer my questions above, I'd be over the moon!! Thank you again(!!), Norman
@@norman2999 That's a 2SC1969... it was very popular for a long time, looks like you can still get them on Ebay.. I didn't check Amazon.... if its working I'd leave it alone... if you don't have any output.. you'd have to pull 2 of the legs to test it.. I doubt it would degrade much... usually they just work or they don't... hope that helps... there could be some mods for that radio to get a little more power out... check cbtricks.com and see if they have anything listed
The de-soldering braid that you're using has little to no flux in it. That's why it doesn't work! You need a container of flux and a brush then it works fine. The best I've found is Chemwick de-soldering braid. It's much more expensive but if you do electronic work frequently you'll thank yourself for putting the extra money in it.
hello sr. what mosfet you remove what number. and what nomber you put . and one you put new one is for max power what number you put please thanks ineed info, and thanks your.
I posted a link to the schematic in the description. I'm sorry there's a lot of chicken scratch on the page. These are my personal notes, so hopefully it'll make some sense. If it doesn't, ask and I'll see if I can answer it. Thanks for watching.
Are there any written instructions anywhere on-line about the subject of jackin' up the power out of a Cobra 29, and doing it right? (Including installing a Mos-Fet)?
@@JLPicard440 Seems to be a lot better then using a small amp board with an MRF-455 to get the output but I wonder how long the power circuit for the final holds up since it is drawing 4 or more times the current when it hits 40ish watts.. I think I saw this mod or similar and they added a 12v+ jumper to somewhere near the final transistor.. I would also suspect that adding a bigger heatsink or a small fan would have that new transistor lasting longer for people that talk a lot..
I didn't say in the video? The SWR knob is a potentiometer and isn't really necessary for operating the radio. I just taped off the original wires and used the knob as the control for variable dead key.
That mosfet and companion part have become difficult to find in the past years/ months... There's kits on Ebay that you can get the parts from.. Was it an IRF520? and EN369FN... Im going by memory. I haven't worked on one for a while..
Cobra 29 Mosfet Modification. I went to ebay an orderd a somethin gto the effect of a MOSFET receive modification for a Cobra 29 CB. i got the parts but I am no further ahead. Confusing directions almost drives me to drinking. Attendimg AA instead. This is way over my head.
Not sure about the exact one that I used here, but Amazon does have lots of those LEDs... Just type in 12V LED bulb for radio s-meter and that should bring you something... or LED light strip instead of bulb...
I bought some very low cost Chinese solder wick and it didn't work at all because it comes without flux. I believe they sell it that way because they want you to be able to use a flux that's compatible with the solder you're using. For the old standard 60-40, Pb:Sn solder rather than any lead-free types you can just buy a small can of rosin solder flux. Heat the new wick a little bit then dab some of the rosin flux onto it while it's warm then try it out. It'll work wonderfully.
HI Joe! Great tips on the CAP and the solder wick. I'll definitely keep that in my bag of tricks. Yes I have some of the cheapie solder wick and no it doesn't work very good! I'll try that next time I get the iron out... I used to work at an electronics shop for a long time and I guess they had the good stuff. We never had any problems with it.
The old solder wick that always worked perfectly had rosin flux impregnated into it. That's why it worked so well. If you're trying to use fluxless wick it's no wonder it doesn't work. You need to get a little can of rosin flux and then you be super happy with your cheap solder wick.
Awesome info! Yes I have the wick and the rosin, but I didn't put them together... Lol. Of course the old stuff is better! That holds true on many things... 😊
what you could do is buy a bunch of parts needed for this, make " kits" out of them, mark them up and resell them and make some cash.. I would be interested in one. and if you could type up step by step instructions and send them in the kit would be great
Hi... Yea for some reason these parts have gotten hard to find. If you go on eBay and type in EN369FN... there are several people selling a DIY kit to build one. Looks like it's just 2 resistors and a diode.
I don't have it handy. I got the mod from cbradioforum or a site like that that had several mods listed... If you google C29 MOSFET conversion, it shouldn't be to hard to find..
Yes, Unfortunately I don't have one available or I would do video for it, .. but here's a link for a mosfet conversion.... www.cbtricks.com/miscellaneous/fet_papers/ekl/graphics/erf2030_148gtl_mod.pdf
@@JLPicard440 ok thanks anyway it's just because I recently modified a 29 nw. greT power 12 watt dead key accept for channels above 35 wattage drops to half s watt and I did adjust cans no difference .
@@GustavoGomez-kk7ob HUH... No, I don't remember having any trouble like that.. the power across the band was about the same... You shouldn't be having a 12 watt dead key either. It's better to do the variable dead key mod, so you can turn down the dead key to about 2 watts or so...
@@JLPicard440 well i turned a 5 watt radio in to a under 1 wat radio... the only part that i did not follow is i could not find for sale the IC for biasing the mosfet, so i made one based on a schematic i found (2 resistors and i diode) the schematic called for abnormal values so i got close as i could with parts on hand.
@@JLPicard440 welp, after a few hours of poking arround. and dropping my 330k resistor to a 22k i got it to swing up to a whole 3 watts. i almost reached premod performance.
@@RockeyDAproductions Wow.. Ive not tried to build the biasing part. It does seem like the availability of that part has diminished. I looked on eBay and the only thing I found were people selling the kits that are probably the same thing you just did.. did you save the original parts you took out? Can you fix it back to stock? Do u have all the right values? Looks like a 1n4148 diode, a 360 ohm resistor, and a 230K resistor (one guy on eBay was subbing this out for a 226K). I would stick as close to those values as you can, I don't know how changing the values will affect the power output.
Every radio I see with a Variable dk mod has a terrible rx afterwards. Lots of noise and the squelch never works nearly as good as it used to. Not sure why this is. Something about the variable mod dk just messes up the RX but if you weren’t around radios a lot the user wouldn’t notice.
I don't remember. I have found that if you increase the voltage it really doesn't hurt anything. I don't see why the 500V won't work, but if you have a 1000V laying around, I wouldn't hesitate to throw that one in either...
hay do you got an email FB or discord that i can shoot some images and questions back and forth. i cant get more than 4 watts of swing out of my compelted mod using my 10$ amizon meter
it's a IRF520, using a EN369FN companion part. The 369FN is getting hard to find, but I did see some on Ebay. I've also seen some videos on TH-cam on how to build the companion part for yourself.
WALLDORF ELECTRON_CO. A variable dead key is only good for close up qso when you vary the power it changes the load the tank circuit sees but gives more swing on a low power radio 20-25 watts leave out the swing kit and tune for max the radio will last a long time. Set a swr meter to check the tune of the antenna then vary the power and whistle in the Mic check the swr.I never put in swing kits they distort the audio have a reputable shop dip the tank circuit
Just wondering if anyone has tested or used IRF 520's, with what I've found, that have 93w output? Will these work? I've found 48w (that was the norm back in the day), 60w and 93w outputs. Want to know if it makes any difference. Thanks
@@JLPicard440 The wattage comes from the data sheets of the mosfets. Not a cb shop or builder. Look them up for yourself. I buy my electronics from Digi-key and a few others. I'm just wondering if they'll produce or not as I'm no radio electronics wiz. Thanks
OIC... Sorry for the misunderstanding. I haven't seen a C29 produce that much power, but that doesn't mean that it can't if the IRF mosfet is capable of it... 😀. Yes I'm familiar with Digikey...
Great job Bud. Another way of doing the Dead Key Variable which i have done over 30 times now is at this video. Looks to be very similar to yours. Not sure about the 12v power going to the Swr Pot then to the 3055? In this video where is the Transistor being biased from the jumper I am guessing right? th-cam.com/video/nafq9_l7jnM/w-d-xo.html
Way to much heat sink compound on that final a properly tuned 29 will do 25w clean 10w gain to 35w not worth it unless your having to replace a bad final you have to double your power output to gain 1s unit
You are killing the harmonics. I bet it looks nasty on an oscilloscope. There is a fine line between power and quality audio. You should always use a tone generator and oscilloscope when peaking and tuning.
Wife: "Have you seen my Christmas dish towel, where did it go?" Technician "Um...the one with Santa on it?" 🤣
Lol... that's funny.
With thermal paste you dont just glob it on you only need a small drop and with a plastic blade you rake it.
Key tip you remove the old paste and clean the surface of the heatsink.
Too much thermal paste will create the opposite effect and insulate heat.
Best thermal paste is artic silver or gold.
And use a grounding strap when touching electronic components.
Hey there! That sue is nice of you to eave a constructive comment to be read. Thank you formo the bottm of my heart.
Yea only problem is that it's bad advice. The thermal paste under these type is finals doesn't I sulfate heat because it's such a small surface area. And mor important here is the fact you just really suggested artic silvery cpu thermal paste in rf work. HUUUUUUGE NONO. this isn't just my opinion. Ask any tech that relaly knows his stuff that is hands down the absolute worst possible thermal paste you could EVER put in a radio or amp. Pls do not do that to your radio
No joke sherelock 😅😅
@@bparker86he just doesn’t know 😂😂
When the snooze alarm come on please press snooze again. Mod what with what and for what reason? Minute 12:50 and I still don't have an answer.
Ok thanks.
If you get a closer view of the circuit boars it would be a great help, Thanks, Ella
Thanks for the tip!...
So you are that guy we always hear all the way up here in pa bleeding through on all channels that keeps saying ah yeah ah yeah and hellllllooooo
Lol.... nahh, that's another guy... 😂
Yes that’s him 😂😂
There’s no saving this radio 😅😅😅
The 68pF cap added across C59 should be an NPO type because of the type of circuit t's used in. The NPO types have a very low temperature coefficient so your RF circuit won't drift to much during temperature excursions. Also it should be rated at 500V .
TY... See the other comment.
Yes.. This is for education purposes only... This should only be used on air in case of emergency
Rrrrriiiiiggggghhhhttt..........................
Lol
@Alan 602 OIC
Should have listed specific parts and or say you have a extra videos explaining the rest
Thanks for the feedback!...
I want to know what's the power of sister. On the cover 29 at TVA M FM classic to get the full power radio.
HI, I haven't heard of that one... Thank you..
Pretty sure you should tighten the screw and/or nut BEFORE you solder-in your power transistor. That way the torque from the screwdriver won't put stress on the soldered-in leads and possibly damage the circuit-board's traces. I was personally shown that this can and does happen. Also, it's a pretty good idea to de-solder all leads before you attempt to remove a component. And remove ALL solder from the pads before you remove any component legs. Everything works smoother when you do. Just sayin'.
Nice video. Informative. Thanks!
HI, thanks for the great tips!
In addition to new solder, try using some flux paste, such as what is used for SMD rework (not what's used for plumbing) when using the braid, it generally helps it wick up quite a bit, then use 91-99% alcohol for cleanup. BTW, it may be illegal to transmit with a modified CB, but people have been doing all forms of mods since day one and the FCC usually only busts people running huge kickers or someone causing nasty interference. They have more important things to do than busting people with modified radios putting out less than 100 watts.
Yep, agreed on the FCC,.. I don't get on CB anymore..no one really local around here to talk to,.. they all flew the coop!! As far as the flux,.. that's a good tip! Thanks..
jamienoel x
jamienoel: Newbie question!! Do you apply flux to the solder on the board, then put the braid on, then heat the braid? Or did I miss something? Thanks in advance for your answer!! 73s, Norman.
@@norman2999 when removing solder, flux the braid lightly. You can use cheap plumbing paste for removing the solder. But use quality flux for applying solder
LMAO they could care less!!!! Look at CH 6 and 11, they run thousands of watts and the FCC looks the other way!!
I am so doing this is I ever find a yard sale, thrift shop, or cheap craigslist 29.
I have a 29 but I have had it for years, it was my first "good" radio.
I can't bring my self to put it under the knife, as my first patient.
If I successfully do the operation on one of her sisters, then she gets augmented : )
Great video!
If you aren't running an amp can you just leave it with a 4 watt dead key?
Yes I don't blame you. You can find those once in a while on Craigslist for cheap or other places. Yes, absolutely if you aren't running an amp you can leave it at 4 watt dead key..
Is the variable dead key adjustment actually an output power adjustment? If you lower it all the way is the power all the way down even when you talk into the microphone?
HI John... I believe they are correlated, but not necessarily linear. If you lower it all the way down and talk in the mic you're still going to get output (IF I remember right). It probably won't sound very good if you do it that way.
You should always tighten mechanical connections BEFORE soldering. Otherwise, you can put stress on the joints.
Agreed...
Nice Comment
Swapping out the final(s) will
give more power? I have a 1978
RCA Co-Pilot14T302 SSB CB radio.
How do I find out which new finals
to swap in, ensuring compatibility,
of course!! Thanks for answering!!
I'm not familiar with that particular radio... see what final it has... maybe there's a compatible part out there...
@@JLPicard440:
Thank you for answering so fast!!
How & where to find out a
compatible final? Once I have the
number of the final, how & where do I go to find one that'll work in my CB?
@@norman2999 you might try to Google that model number to see if there are any mods/tuning tricks available for it... most of the time you can get more power from the final that's already in there... its usually not worth just changing the final just for a few watts... no one will ever hear the difference...
@@JLPicard440: I found
the number on the final.
It's: Mistubishi symbol
C1969
65Y-BH
I googled it and couldn't find anything at all. How would I find a
replacement part for it? Is there
any way to check it while it's still
on the board or is removal
necessary? Also: is the final
something that could degrade
over time, or is it a case of either
it works or it doesn't? Please
forgive my newbie questions, but
if I don't ask, I will never know!!
Besides, EVERYBODY had a first
time to ask a question!! I'm very
fortunate to have a knowledgeable
person such as your good self to
ask these questions of. I really do
appreciate your taking time to
answer my newbie questions.
So if you could answer my
questions above, I'd be over the
moon!! Thank you again(!!),
Norman
@@norman2999 That's a 2SC1969... it was very popular for a long time, looks like you can still get them on Ebay.. I didn't check Amazon.... if its working I'd leave it alone... if you don't have any output.. you'd have to pull 2 of the legs to test it.. I doubt it would degrade much... usually they just work or they don't... hope that helps... there could be some mods for that radio to get a little more power out... check cbtricks.com and see if they have anything listed
The de-soldering braid that you're using has little to no flux in it. That's why it doesn't work! You need a container of flux and a brush then it works fine. The best I've found is Chemwick de-soldering braid. It's much more expensive but if you do electronic work frequently you'll thank yourself for putting the extra money in it.
Yes, I've used chemwick.... it does work better..... :-)
Like giving fire to the cavemen! JK. Great video, you teach well. 73 from Boston
Thank U!... :-). 73 From Virginia...
Hey great job guy and taking time doing a video some of these comments blow my mind
TYSM! I really appreciate it.. 😊
hello sr. what mosfet you remove what number. and what nomber you put . and one you put new one is for max power what number you put please thanks ineed info, and thanks your.
I don't remember now, but I think I mentioned it in the video..
@@JLPicard440 thanks
@@JLPicard440 probley 2029 in it irf520 is what he should have put back
@@moparre IRF520 does sound right... 🙂
@@JLPicard440 yep i just installed one yesterday ive tryed the erf2030 but got less wattage than the stock final
Would like the info on how to hook up the variable please
ok, i'll post a schematic for you... It'll be hand drawn, but it'll get the point across.
I posted a link to the schematic in the description. I'm sorry there's a lot of chicken scratch on the page. These are my personal notes, so hopefully it'll make some sense. If it doesn't, ask and I'll see if I can answer it. Thanks for watching.
Enjoying The Sun 577-Jersey Customs
Nice video, there are a few more adjustments to be made, but really good video
Thank you!.. 😀
Are there any written instructions anywhere on-line about the subject of jackin' up the power out of a Cobra 29, and doing it right? (Including installing a Mos-Fet)?
It used to be easier to find.... Have you tried a google search?
Can you do a VFO windup modification?
Not at this time
What a " joy " to behold ! LOL !
Thank you!
@@JLPicard440 Seems to be a lot better then using a small amp board with an MRF-455 to get the output but I wonder how long the power circuit for the final holds up since it is drawing 4 or more times the current when it hits 40ish watts.. I think I saw this mod or similar and they added a 12v+ jumper to somewhere near the final transistor.. I would also suspect that adding a bigger heatsink or a small fan would have that new transistor lasting longer for people that talk a lot..
Yes I'm sure those will all help. One thing I've learned over the years, you can't have to much cooling for electronics!
L14 remove slug and throw it...up til now youve had my attention. Why throw it? Dont know, some nim-rod said so?
Yea, but it works!
Great job, cute lil Dude 😎
Thank you 🤗
I like the mod and I would like to know how you made the swr cal into a variable for the dead key. It looks like it’s a fun mod to install.
I didn't say in the video? The SWR knob is a potentiometer and isn't really necessary for operating the radio. I just taped off the original wires and used the knob as the control for variable dead key.
SVSM29 (SimpleVariableSuperMod Cobra 29) uses Delta Tune as controller. Variable as low as 1/2W.
Parts list with part numbers?
That mosfet and companion part have become difficult to find in the past years/ months... There's kits on Ebay that you can get the parts from.. Was it an IRF520? and EN369FN... Im going by memory. I haven't worked on one for a while..
Am I still able to do this, even though I don't have the equipment to tune everything?
You should at least have a watt meter that will measure PEP...
Cobra 29 Mosfet Modification. I went to ebay an orderd a somethin gto the effect of a MOSFET receive modification for a Cobra 29 CB. i got the parts but I am no further ahead. Confusing directions almost drives me to drinking. Attendimg AA instead. This is way over my head.
The procedure itself is pretty easy, the parts have now gotten hard to find is the problem... ☹️
Using some liquid solder flux on that wick pulls the solder off the board much better..
Yes that's right... Thank you... 😊
Where did you get the 3 led light strip for the meter
Ebay or Amazon has those.. just type in LED strip 12 volt and they'll come up..
@@JLPicard440 Ok thank you sir
Do you still have info on where I can purchase that LED light strip for the meter? Thank you
Not sure about the exact one that I used here, but Amazon does have lots of those LEDs... Just type in 12V LED bulb for radio s-meter and that should bring you something... or LED light strip instead of bulb...
@JLPicard440 Thank you Sir! I found some under led for s-meter.
Excellent! You're welcome...
I bought some very low cost Chinese solder wick and it didn't work at all because it comes without flux. I believe they sell it that way because they want you to be able to use a flux that's compatible with the solder you're using. For the old standard 60-40, Pb:Sn solder rather than any lead-free types you can just buy a small can of rosin solder flux. Heat the new wick a little bit then dab some of the rosin flux onto it while it's warm then try it out. It'll work wonderfully.
HI Joe! Great tips on the CAP and the solder wick. I'll definitely keep that in my bag of tricks. Yes I have some of the cheapie solder wick and no it doesn't work very good! I'll try that next time I get the iron out... I used to work at an electronics shop for a long time and I guess they had the good stuff. We never had any problems with it.
The old solder wick that always worked perfectly had rosin flux impregnated into it. That's why it worked so well. If you're trying to use fluxless wick it's no wonder it doesn't work. You need to get a little can of rosin flux and then you be super happy with your cheap solder wick.
Awesome info! Yes I have the wick and the rosin, but I didn't put them together... Lol. Of course the old stuff is better! That holds true on many things... 😊
what you could do is buy a bunch of parts needed for this, make " kits" out of them, mark them up and resell them and make some cash.. I would be interested in one. and if you could type up step by step instructions and send them in the kit would be great
Thanks for the idea!
hi what can be a sub for the en369? The closest one I find is in Holland
Hi... Yea for some reason these parts have gotten hard to find. If you go on eBay and type in EN369FN... there are several people selling a DIY kit to build one. Looks like it's just 2 resistors and a diode.
I know this was several years ago do u have a parts list and a place to get them.
I don't have it handy. I got the mod from cbradioforum or a site like that that had several mods listed... If you google C29 MOSFET conversion, it shouldn't be to hard to find..
can you please send me the build instructions.
Thanks
George
HI George, if you have access to FB please comment on my Take a Bath page and I'll get them to you. Thank u
Hi, is possible modification for lx29 new model please, and what parts is necessary? Thanks.
HI, I don't have the info for that particular model.
@@JLPicard440 Same board.
Sorry about that, I must have forgot to say what the parts were,... it was a IRF520 and a EN369FN companion part..
Take a Bath Productions can u do this to a cobra 148 gtl
Yes, Unfortunately I don't have one available or I would do video for it, .. but here's a link for a mosfet conversion.... www.cbtricks.com/miscellaneous/fet_papers/ekl/graphics/erf2030_148gtl_mod.pdf
hi there I would like to see what that mosfet does on 40 or 39 holding dead for a few minutes and get back to me with results
Gustavo Gomez I don’t have that rig anymore
@@JLPicard440 ok thanks anyway it's just because I recently modified a 29 nw. greT power 12 watt dead key accept for channels above 35 wattage drops to half s watt and I did adjust cans no difference .
@@GustavoGomez-kk7ob HUH... No, I don't remember having any trouble like that.. the power across the band was about the same... You shouldn't be having a 12 watt dead key either. It's better to do the variable dead key mod, so you can turn down the dead key to about 2 watts or so...
@@JLPicard440 ok thanks
i have C61 witch is a disk cap. lets see how she goes from here
U can do it..😀
@@JLPicard440 well i turned a 5 watt radio in to a under 1 wat radio... the only part that i did not follow is i could not find for sale the IC for biasing the mosfet, so i made one based on a schematic i found (2 resistors and i diode) the schematic called for abnormal values so i got close as i could with parts on hand.
@@JLPicard440 welp, after a few hours of poking arround. and dropping my 330k resistor to a 22k i got it to swing up to a whole 3 watts. i almost reached premod performance.
@@RockeyDAproductions Wow.. Ive not tried to build the biasing part. It does seem like the availability of that part has diminished. I looked on eBay and the only thing I found were people selling the kits that are probably the same thing you just did.. did you save the original parts you took out? Can you fix it back to stock? Do u have all the right values? Looks like a 1n4148 diode, a 360 ohm resistor, and a 230K resistor (one guy on eBay was subbing this out for a 226K). I would stick as close to those values as you can, I don't know how changing the values will affect the power output.
Every radio I see with a Variable dk mod has a terrible rx afterwards. Lots of noise and the squelch never works nearly as good as it used to. Not sure why this is. Something about the variable mod dk just messes up the RX but if you weren’t around radios a lot the user wouldn’t notice.
Interesting! I hadn't noticed that, but I wasn't looking for it either. Thanks for the info... 😀
Good is bery explicit your video thank
I'm novato
Parts list? Thanks
Maybe I missed it but it the 68uf 500v or 1000v
I don't remember. I have found that if you increase the voltage it really doesn't hurt anything. I don't see why the 500V won't work, but if you have a 1000V laying around, I wouldn't hesitate to throw that one in either...
hubiera mas tutoriales de esto pero en español
porque no ent3ndí nada.😥😥pero felicito al que enseña lo que sabe .
Thank you.
Hi what is mosfet part number pls? schematics pls
I don't remember. It's easy to find the mod on google.. Just google Cobra 29 Mosfet Mod.
hay do you got an email FB or discord that i can shoot some images and questions back and forth. i cant get more than 4 watts of swing out of my compelted mod using my 10$ amizon meter
I do have a Facebook page under take a bath productions..
Where is the video for the variable power install?
I don't have another Cobra 29 Guinny Pig to use in the video, if one comes along, I'd be happy to make the video..
@@JLPicard440: Please
look hard for one, we can't wait to see THAT video on variable output!
How many more bird average watts does this mofset mod give you???
On avg? Barely any, PEP is about 35 or so..
@@JLPicard440 oh I thought it was like drail.
th-cam.com/video/8qL25VXycHg/w-d-xo.html
@@bgvan37 I'm not sure what a drail is?
@@JLPicard440 just check the TH-cam link I posted then you will know
@@bgvan37 Thank u
Nice job, but it would've been better with a bit more detailed instructions as in why, how, plus do's and don'ts. But all in general, thumbs up.
I would like to help but my theory is weak and experiecing with test or bench instruments is confused for the time being,
Yes I just got to watch this mod and he was just doing fine until he did all the extra stuff
He learned in the back alley behind Walmart --- details cost money. 😉
C61 or r61 is what u said. Mess up a radio..
Ok thanks.
what is the part # on the mosfet
it's a IRF520, using a EN369FN companion part. The 369FN is getting hard to find, but I did see some on Ebay. I've also seen some videos on TH-cam on how to build the companion part for yourself.
What final you used?
This one - www.vishay.com/docs/91017/91017.pdf
can I use a en369dr can't find any one who has th fn in stock.
Nikki Lucas huh... Check ebay... you'd have to get the spec sheet on both and compare them .. I don't know right off the bat
+Take a Bath Productions that's were I checked the Dr and fn are showing the same companion part.
+Take a Bath Productions that's were I checked the Dr and fn are showing the same companion part.
Nikki Lucas well that's a good sign
Nikki Lucas I can try to check it out a little later when I get back to my computer
Sounds like my wife. It's cheap but it's working.
Thank u..
I'm still learning electronics....so can you explain why I want a variable dead key? Is that for measuring or turning down the output? Thanks.
MAN CAVE NO.1 yes most amps take a pretty low carrier of about 2 watts... so it's nice to be able to turn it up or down
WALLDORF ELECTRON_CO. A variable dead key is only good for close up qso when you vary the power it changes the load the tank circuit sees but gives more swing on a low power radio 20-25 watts leave out the swing kit and tune for max the radio will last a long time. Set a swr meter to check the tune of the antenna then vary the power and whistle in the Mic check the swr.I never put in swing kits they distort the audio have a reputable shop dip the tank circuit
@@jefferybernard4800"dip the tank
circuit"? Please explain, thanks!!
fyi really enjoyed the video
I appreciate that😀
I didn't quite follow what you did as instructions were a bit vague, but I know why you did that. That heatsink is going to get mighty hot!
Not hardly.
@@JLPicard440 Really, I thought you put the power up? Or were you measuring SSB power?
bob fourjs not that much power.. it doesn’t run very hot
Check out 440 Cb shop on Facebook.
Just wondering if anyone has tested or used IRF 520's, with what I've found, that have 93w output? Will these work? I've found 48w (that was the norm back in the day), 60w and 93w outputs. Want to know if it makes any difference. Thanks
I would find that hard to believe! CB shops like to use generous meters like a Dosy to inflate the actual wattage so it looks good to the client... 😀
@@JLPicard440 The wattage comes from the data sheets of the mosfets. Not a cb shop or builder. Look them up for yourself. I buy my electronics from Digi-key and a few others. I'm just wondering if they'll produce or not as I'm no radio electronics wiz. Thanks
OIC... Sorry for the misunderstanding. I haven't seen a C29 produce that much power, but that doesn't mean that it can't if the IRF mosfet is capable of it... 😀. Yes I'm familiar with Digikey...
Read the reviews on 440 CB shop on Facebook
boss of the stix 440 reviews on what?
That's it RIP them right out lmao lol.
Great job Bud. Another way of doing the Dead Key Variable which i have done over 30 times now is at this video. Looks to be very similar to yours. Not sure about the 12v power going to the Swr Pot then to the 3055? In this video where is the Transistor being biased from the jumper I am guessing right?
th-cam.com/video/nafq9_l7jnM/w-d-xo.html
Good deal.
yeah whats the gain 4 this conversion
IT'S time to GO TAKE A BATH
I've had enough baths to last for a little while.. I'm good.. 😂
Way to much heat sink compound on that final a properly tuned 29 will do 25w clean 10w gain to 35w not worth it unless your having to replace a bad final you have to double your power output to gain 1s unit
That's true! Thanks for the info... 😀
It’s scrap now 😂😂
Ok thanks! I have to submit to your expert opinion. 😊
You are killing the harmonics. I bet it looks nasty on an oscilloscope. There is a fine line between power and quality audio. You should always use a tone generator and oscilloscope when peaking and tuning.
Why didn't you ware a strap light on your noggin?,,,,just sayen😆
Ummm... Ok
This guy isnt working on my radio.
Great!
You have a email address ?
Larry LeBlanc sure it's jlpicard440@gmail.com
Little knowledge is dangerous.
Gotta start somewhere.
This is an example of what NOT to do. This is a hack mod and will do nothing but cause splatter and distortion. Waste of time and money for nothing.
Ok thanks!
My opinion a sucker works better than wick
I use them both... Thanks for the feedback.. 😊
He has a golden screwdriver 🪛 😂😂
Ok thanks!