Thank you. Yes, most of the mods I have in my other videos are not Winnebago specific. The Qwest was on my short list when I bought the View. Hope you stick around for other future mods.
LOVE your channel. We've watched and re-watched to learn more for our new 22D! Would love to know which smart TV you installed above the kitchen counter? Would you mind sharing the link? Thank you!
Hi Lindsay, the TV is a 32 inch LG Smart TV. I bought it at Best Buy at the time but it's also available on Amazon. Link is below. It is not a simple swap out unfortunately. There is major modification required to the existing Winnebago bracket. It requires decent carpentry skills. There may be other TV's that install easier, but still would required the Winnebago bracket to be modified. I bought the LG because it matches the cabinets well. Thanks for watching. If you need more detail, let me know. www.amazon.com/LG-LM627B-720P-Smart-32LM627BPUA/dp/B09CGD4KD1/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3UDFCRNVDJ3OK&keywords=32+inch+lg+smart+tv&qid=1650577218&sprefix=32+inch+lg+smart+tv%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-8
We like the more abundant space compared to the Insterstate 24 which is only 11 inches shorter. Not as nimble as your 19 though but we are not empty nester either;)
The wet bay mod took a tremendous amount of work, and requires all the original plumbing in that area to be cut out. That is where all the plumbing lines for the entire motorhome comes together. I wouldn't recommend doing it unless one is really motivated to rip out all the original plumbing (The factory job was done with wrong fitting at many of the connections) and causes small water drips.The Max air fan mod is definitely worth it.
@@rickc9873 Well you will get a good laugh if you are up for it. You may be able to peak up at your electrical side and see the exposed pluming. That is the bottom of the shower where all the plumbing comes together. Their plumbing diagram is on their website. For 2020 and 2021 (can't speak for 2022), they used white tubing instead of pex at many of the hard to reach connections and crimped the tubing to pex connectors with cinch clamps. I had 2 different diameter tubing way oversized as well as connecting to pex connectors instead of barbed fittings with proper clamps. I had a major water leak that promped the repair and it was faster for me to do it, then waiting for warranty to do it. Hope yours isn't the same. It was all reported to Winnebago corporate so hopefully they fixed that issue.
Rick, I had modified the wet bay in our 2007 View in much the same way, but hadn't yet jumped into the job in our 2021 Navion. Last winter I found a fatal flaw in the plumbing design. In order to accommodate the city water fill system, Winnebago installs a long loop in between the water tank (which is in the heated coach) and the water pump (which is almost adjacent to the tank). This long loop, which goes into the wet bay and then returns to the pump, is the first thing to freeze and block the plumbing. So, I may as well solve that problem at the same time as redoing the wet bay. Did you ever do yours? Another aspect is the improper plumbing fittings, which some other TH-camrs had also mentioned. Any advice there?
Not even 8 weeks with us and step motor broke, I fell to cement and crushed my femoral nerve, agony, pain meds, no sleep, can't feel my leg from hip to knee, cold. Thanks Winnebago! Also wife cut her hand twice on microwave vents, razor sharp facing upwards! Cabinet buttons get stuck, nightmare. Cabinets out of alignment and one drawer out of alignment. Black tank valve opened in route and well you guessed what happened next, covered in our own excrement!💩🤢
Sorry to hear Don. Hope you get better. Just take 1 problem at a time and get them fixed. It takes about a year to work out the bugs and even worse these days with the poor quality control. Working with a dealer for the repairs is no fun at all and very time consuming. Good luck on the repairs.
What did you use for your cab curtain. Is it bolted on. What metal material did you use. Great idea for that spot instead of putting up window shades. Quick privacy.
I used to have an Amazon link, but a commenter mentioned that they received the wrong piece from the company (OMAC USA). Apparently the new curtains have a 2 piece track instead of 1 piece like I have. They are cab divider curtains made for a regular Sprinter. Here is the link. amzn.to/3rINj3m You may want to call the company regarding the track. You need the track to be just wide enough to cover the opening. I installed mine with vhb tape on both ends (helps with keeping it in place) that touch the cab plastic, and installed thin long screws (2 on each side). I used my own screws and not the ones came with it. Notice that the curtains do not go all the way to the floor (which was fine with me). I did not do an install video, but I show snips of the install throughout random videos but don't recall which ones. Hope that help. The cab curtain makes a tremendous different in controlling the temperature as well (even with the large gap on the bottom).
Yes water is really heavy. The Sprinter Cutaway handles terrible even without any weight added to the RV. I put on the hellwig sway bars, a Supersprimg helper springs, and a trackbar. All helped a great amount.
Love your "Mods" videos, and have done some them myself following your lead. I just bought the same Seelevel kit in order to upgrade the tank level monitor ability. Were you able to use existing wires to the tanks, propane, and pump switch, or did you run new ones, and what route did you use to get the wires down through the passenger side of the coach to the equipment. And I see that the original tank monitor is still in place and functional, so maybe that answers one of my questions about new wires. Thanks again.
Hi David, it may be easier if you email me (about section of channel). I've helped several people with this install and hard to keep everything straight. You utilize all existing wires. Your new sensors will be installed at your old sensor location and utilize the existing wiring everything. Email me with particulars. The black tank is the toughest and easier to explain via phone.
Would have been nice if you had listed each mod added with a link to where each mod was purchased, ie) Amazon. Love what you have done. I have a 18D & need to make similar changes. Single older woman & use these videos to figure out where I can get the supplies.
I got from RV Ugrade Store but they have them in stock at etrailer or Amazon. I have the Max Fan Deluxe 7500 (10 speed with remote). The cover is smoke in color. The 7000 model has a white cover. I specifically wanted the remote control. They have manual versions without remote for cheaper price. The install took me about 2 hour total and 1/2 the time was removing the old fan and roof sealant.
Very nice RV and great mods. However, my biggest concern with this model is the cargo carrying capacity, which is only about 1000lb. You've added another 30 gallons of water (240+ lb) and you mentioned kids, so you've got at least four people... How can you possibly get loaded with food, clothes, bedding, etc. and not go over the CCC?
That's always a challenge with any Sprinter RV. My kids are still small, and our total family weight is 379 so we have a big advantage over most people. My occc started with 1060. I don't carry the sprinter jack, spare table and legs, curtains, countertop covers, ladder, manuals, cushiins,or any other accessory that the winnebago came with. Also removed 100 +- pounds of wiring and metal as well. And the 240 pounds of extra water can be filled at the campground. I don't think it matters what you so, and occc will still be a problem so I don't have a better answer for you than that. Not sure how full time RVers do it. I could remove the spare tire and brackets and gain another 50+pounds but would rather have the spare.
Goodness, nice work man! Not sure about "must do" as I'm betting most of us "can't do" many of these. Makes me feel a little less enthusiastic about the Navion though since all of these mods make so much sense, I question why many of them aren't at least factory options. Did you weigh everything? What's the effect on the CCC?
As you already know the OCCC on these sprinter chassis are a big weakness. The only thing of significance is the added fresh water tank. I removed all the factory bunk ladder, Murphy bed drapes, extra table and leg, extra cushions, heavy steel brackets at the old TV, and a heavy amount of steel in the wet bay. I say I broke even or better on the weight except for the water weight itself. There is room to remove some heavy pressed wood in the closet areas I have not bothered with. Fortunately we travel pretty light. I have several other improvements I'll try to film soon. Thanks for watching.
@@navajasrs2402 1030. I have every option except the acrylic dual pane windows and the cab seat covers which would give more occc with the acrylic windows.
Great video for inspiration. Wondering what size and maker of garbage can? Just picked up our 22D and I think that is the best spot for it. Thanks for taking the time to put the video together!
Hi if you click on the description part of the next video, you will see the Amazon link for the exact Garbage can. It's a 4 gallon, and it is a nice size that works well for us. Thanks for watching.
Craig again (lol), can you share what you used to mount your TV to the wall by the dinette....looking at similar install with a 24" computer monitor, thanks!!!
Hey Craig, I used the following from Amazon. amzn.to/3cON1k5 I used it with some VHB Tape, and 2 very small screws. Let me know if this works or if you need more info.
Just watched your video about reprogramming so the speed limit sign recognition works properly. Thank you. Do you know of any Mods to make the rearview camera work while driving forward? I know Mid City Engineering makes a DIY programmer, but it is quite expensive.
I haven't heard of any fix for that. Last I read on mid city (this was about 1 year ago so things may have changed) they were still working on it. They had the regular van programmer, but not for the cut away/cab chassis yet. Maybe they have that complete now. I wished there was something simple. I have been waiting as well because I don't want to put in an aftermarket camera.
Hi Rick, I didn't run any cable wires to that TV. Being a smart TV, we stream any TV through TH-cam TV which is built into the smart TV. Won't do much good of course if you hard coonect to cable. It can be done though. If you remove the bottom panel of the couch, the water hoses are there. You can zip to that bundle and remove the 4 screws under the shower pan, and you can pull the wire through. If you need more detail on that, just email me and I can show how it can be done.
I bought the same year and model RV and the same trash can as you after watching this video. I have a question, does the garbage can open and close every time you wain in and out of the door? Mine does and I swear at it each time.
I have a small piece of electrical tape over half the sensor on the cover. So the only way to open it is to hold your hand really close to the sensor. You will have to experiment with the tape placement but that solved the problem for me. Hope that helps.
Good call, I did the same with motion-sensing switches in my house but didn't think to do it to the garbage can. I know you sold your RV but I wanted to thank you for your videos. I am selling my house this Friday and moving into the 2020 24D full time and purchased several of your hacks, including the ruggable. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos in the future and maybe I will copy your next RV as well. :)
Watched all your great videos! thank you for sharing with us! I have 2020 Winnebago Navion 24J, I really like the OMAC Cab Divider Van Cabin Curtain that you installed. I bought the same OMAC one, came with the rail/track cut in two from the middle. The place where the track is installed is suspended in the middle, so it can only be fixed on both sides with screws. I can't mount it. I'm curious how you did it. thank you.
My track is 1 piece. Each side is secured with 2 screws near the very end. I didn't use the screws it came with. I used long screws with a very small head so the curtain clips can slide over them. Did you say your track is 2 piece?
@@rvlifediy Thank you so muc for your prompt answer! I bought back in March this year, The rail came with two pieces. may be shorter easy for shopping. I did return it. I called company and email Omac Amazon this morning and got back two different answers, Amazon said one piece, and company said two pieces. I'm going to try to buy it again from Amazon.
@@rvlifediy Also, did you trimmed both side of curtain? and how much did you trimmed your track? I just ordered another one hopefully come with one piece track. thank you.
@@stephenma4382 I don't remember having to cut the track at all. If I did, I only would have cut one side. I did drill holes for the 2 screws on both ends.
For the shelf, I used a shelf that was in the house already and was the correct depth. I just had to cut the width. For the brackets I used these exact ones. amzn.to/3BzlixG
thanks for the video, some great mods. Can you give more details of auxiliary water tank, what model is it, where you purchased it and any installation details. Thanks!
I bought the tank from Amazon. I don't know how to do the Amazon links but it is Class A Customs | T-3000-BPK| 30 Gallon Fresh Water Tank & Plumbing Kit RV Concession I see it's still available for about $100. You will have to get some minor misc parts from a big box store. If you know how to work with pex, it's a pretty easy install. Under the bench there is an access panel that faces the murphy bed. You will see the fresh water line from the factory tank behind the panel. You connect to that with a T fitting. You also connect the water vent line to the factory vent. I also installed a shut off valve at the tank connection so I can isolate the tank if I want to. Ask away on any questions as it's hard to explain all in 1 response.
@@mikecarbone8475 If I had to do it again, I would consider the 24J. I would rather have a fixed bed than make the murphy bed each day but many people seem to love the murphy bed. The only downside I saw on the 24J was the smaller bathroom. 24 J has the space to swap out the existing tank to a larger tank in the dame spot.
I installed both in my driveway. Front sumo springs, rear sumo sprints, and front sumo springs. Each item took about 1 hour. It is easier if you have leveling jacks.
I own a 2020 24J and love what you have done to your 2020D (our close 2nd choice). Thank you very much for sharing. How hard was it to install the SeaLevel II tank monitoring system? The OEM tank monitor system is terrible and I would love to have more precise measurement of the tank levels. Thank you!
I love the 24J due to the fixed bed. The hardest part of the sealevel is cutting the display panel to the wood. They do make a filler panel (that replaces the one place) but is not the exact same size. The rest is easy if you know how to crimp wires. On the 24J the fresh water tank is easier access. The gray water tank can be accessed by removing 4 screws from under and the entire side panel will swing up. The black tank is the hardest but doable. You can reuse all the existing wiring so you will need some butt connectors. Email me if you have questions.
@@autumnauston we originally planned to buy the D. But loved the extra cargo carrying capacity and storage. Also liked that we could access the bed with slide in. If you are over 6’ tall, the bed in the J may be too small. We did like how the galley counter space in the D was bigger. But looking back, we have zero issues with the J counter space. Good luck.
We like it. If you've had a precious rv with a fixed bed, you will appreciate the J more for that. But we needed the much larger kitchen and the bathroom in the D so we compromised. We cook a lot so having the larger counter space was a good decision as well as the larger bathroom. I wished my Murphy was a fixed bed though but not enough space. If you like to entertain, the D is a good plan for that. If I had the J, I would have to remodel the kitchen right away and I would be happy.
Hi Brad, I looked at the completed project and it's really hard to show on video. It will depend on the mounting points your new TV has. Basically, I removed and discarded the center metal hanging plate and attached the old angle metal to the TV and that angle to the outer metal plate. I had to cut some of the wood as well. If you need more info, send me your email and I can provide further clarification.
I bought the cab curtains you recommend. They came with a two piece metal channel part that I cannot make sense of how to install it. The ends the parts are curved and it comes with two plastic inserts that go somewhere. It did not come with any instructions, and I see that your track looks like a one piece system. Did you buy a one piece track somewhere else to make the installation more simple. Just not sure how to put it up......Thanks for the great videos, and keep them coming please
Hi David. My track is one piece and it came with the curtains. There was no cutting or modifying required. Send me an email with some pictures, but based on your description, it doesn't sound like the one I have.
@@rvlifediy Thanks. I just sent a message to the seller letting them know the difference between what I got and what you got for curtain rods. I asked them to send me the one piece rod, so let's see what happens. The photo in the order page does show a Mercedes Sprinter passenger van and not a cutaway chassis Sprinter.
@@5290harp I don't think there is much of anything that is made foe the cutaway/cab chassis. I checked my Amazon link again, and it's the exact one I received and the description states 1 rod with 2 curtains as well. Let me know if I can help in any way.
@@rvlifediy Yikes! I am getting nowhere with getting a new rod for the curtains. Here is what they said: Dear customer, Thank you for reaching back out to us. Unfortunately, this product is no longer produced to be shipped with one bar due to damages that were occurring during the shipping process. We apologize for this inconvenience and would like to offer a partial refund to keep the product and make the modifications necessary for proper installation. If you do not agree with this approach please let us know so we may issue your free return shipping label. Kind Regards, OMAC USA Team. Maybe you should take down that link to this product so others do not get this run-around. I can't see how the two piece (with curved ends to conform to the Sprinter Roof) can be modified to work in our situation. Or, is there another source for the rod? Thanks for your help.
Got rid of the link. Not sure what the issue is with the seller. It's a simple thin little metal rod. Mine came straight and was not curved. It's so thin that it curves to whatever way you want. I'll have to check if there is some other source. How I have it installed, it is slightly curved (you can't see on camera. It naturally takes the shape of the way you mount it.
I do not tow. If I did, I would probably tow a Ford Escape Hybrid or the Ford maverick hybrid for the lighter weight. I towed with my previous RV so taking a break from towing for now.
Check the next video description in the interior tour video. There is a link at the bottom of the description. They are barbell stoppers. It's a really tight fit so if you want it to slide easily, you need to sand down the inside of the stopper little bit.
P.S. rodents began eating our "eco" soy based insulated wiring harness on our Mercedes sprinter, engine light, no power, no brakes, had to be towed. Over $1500 out of pocket due to waiting for the new one from Germany under insurance coverage takes 2 weeks. Lots of fun!
Yes these eco wires are useless. Thanks govmt! If you are in a well known rodent area, they make strobe lights for the engine bay to help keep them out.
You will need a new key pad PIN INTAKE\EXHAUST part number 10-21304K and PCB REMOTE AUTOLIFT part number 10B21275K. You will need to crimp wires with butt connectors which is simple. The 2nd part number is more expensive and I don't recall if I even needed (1st part number) is required for sure. I talked to Maxair tech support which I would suggest and they will let you know for sure and you can buy the parts directly from them. Hope that helps.
Great video. Do you have a link to the control board for the Main Maxair Fan? I definitely want to replace the bathroom one and get this control board you are talking about!
Hi yes I have the information. Look about 2 comments down and the info is there. I'll update the info in the description later when I get near a computer.
Hey, Craig again....my engineer brain is churning......for the MAXX Air Fan in the bathroom that you installed, does it do intake and exhaust? Reason I ask, is I could pull air in with it and exhaust out the front one and not have to do the front fan MOD to make it an intake/exhaust.....are you concerned with smells from the bath area? You thoughts....thanks, Craig!!
Hey Craig, with the added fresh water tank install you doubled your fresh water capacity but cut your OCCC by 250 lbs. Has that been a problem for you? It allows you to boondock longer but since you can stay out longer you also need more food. Is that at all an issue for you? Or is the fresh water really the limiting factor, not food? Also, I've been trying to workout how to add more freezer storage with some kind of portable freezer, probably a 12volt, in an external storage bay. I'm looking at the 24J or V as they have better external storage options for this, I think. Have you thought about doing something like this?
OCCC is always a problem on these Sprinter Chassis. I just remove anything unnecessary like the extra tables, posts. curtains, etc and do the best I can. Max we go is about 4 days as we travel as a family of 4 and shower every day as well as cooking/dishes. Food is not an issue with this DC Compressor refrigerator/freezer combo. It has much more usable space than previous propane fridges, so food is not the limiting factor for us. It's the water and gray tank. Water runs out first, gray tank gets close to full, and black tank has plenty of capacity. The View has the best gray and black tank capacity than all other sprinter based RV's which is nice. If I went to Alaska, I would add a DC freezer in between the driver and passenger seat, but that will limit spinning the seats (which we don't use that function). 24V gives you no space in the living area. 24J gives decent space and nice dinette, but small kitchen. All have their limitations. 24J would have been my main choice if the kitchen was a little bigger. Hope that helps.
@@rvlifediy That was a quick response, thanks! I have been researching which small class c would be right for our situation and I've definitely settled on the Winnebago Navion/ View. I like the Tiffin Wayfarer too and their raised rear twin bed with the big garage below looks good. But it just doesn't seem to measure up the the Winnebagos. Now to decide in which floorplan. I like the V as we're a recent retired couple who sometimes needs to get a little (or a lot of space) for sleeping as I snore, well... enough said. The J might work as well but the D just doesn't seem like it would work for us. No separate bedroom I think would be an issue. We'd like to use this to travel cross country to visit our kids who've all spread out and we expect to be on some long trips in it (month long or longer). But probably not boondocking a lot. My wife has some special dietary needs that I think we'd need more freezer space to accommodate. How big of a DC freezer do you think will fit between the seats? (The bigger the better.) And will I need to add more solar, like you did, to power it? (I probably will anyway.) What about lithium? Does more solar go hand in hand with needing to upgrade to lithium? That was long, sorry. I love your videos BTW, very helpful. And I never fast forward through the "boring parts", it's all good to me. 🤓
@@volofly2011 a fixed bed is what I miss the most. The 24V won't give you much space in the front to have any guests for dining or entertainment overall. Not sure if that is important. If it's not, the 24v gives you the best bedroom area. All compromises of course. In between the seats you could put a pretty large dometic freezer but I never measured. It would be hard to climb over but you can always go around to the side doors. The wayfarer is nice, but the occc is even lower unfortunately. Yes you would have to do more solar and lithium regardless if you want to boondock as the factory system is basically a starter system.
@@rvlifediy thanks for your responses Craig. Just to be clear, is the factory solar system enough to keep the fridge running while on the road? It is my understanding that it is. And do you think you would you need to add the extra solar to run an additional DC freezer while on the road? (My plan is that we'll likely plug into shore power or run the generator when stopped most of the time.) BTW, I know this is a noob question (this will be our first RV afterall) but how are these 12 volt compressor fridges powered once you are plugged into shore power or running the generator? Still off the house batteries and the batteries are charged via the inverter off shore or generator? Thanks again, you've been so kind to answer my questions so promptly.
@@volofly2011 In my opinion, no the factory 200 watt is not adequate. You will get into net negative numbers as the 200 watts will not bring in more than you use. I'm assuming you will be using the water pump, lights, fridge, heater, ceiling vent fans, etc, and the inverter once in a while. If you will be plugging in every other day, then yes you will be fine without doing anything. And that is without the added DC freezer. If you will be planning on driving every day, then that is a different story as it will charge slightly driving too. It all depends on how you will use your RV. If you plan on running the generator all the time, then it won't be an issue either, but that generator is loud and annoying to most others. Everyone uses their RV different so I don't have a simple answer. We like to use it similar to a house and not have to worry about power all the time, or run into issues. 12 volt compressor fridges run off the house dc power and gen/plug in will recharge the batteries. If you got the information that the factory 200 watts solar is good enough from others with the same set up, maybe its ok (hope you didn't get that info from Litchtsinn). From my experience it's not enough. In winter, it's practically useless.
It's is my favorite mod but at the same time was the most difficult one. The abs plumbing from the gray tank and black tank will have to be redone with standard plumbing pipe from home depot. I installed an RV specific 90 degree adapter at the back tank with an input for the gray waste. The biggest issue I had was the hose storage for the macerator. I utilized the existing wet bay, but in order to do that, I had to rip our the entire wet bay as well as redo all the freshwater lines. It would be much easier to make some type of storage under the RV for the macerator hose but that was the challenge I couldn't a fix for. If you need more specific items, let me know.
Excellent group of mods. Yes the Sumo springs are a must have for the Sprinter.
Thank you and I agree.
Great ideas! Thank you for sharing.
Wow, you made some really nice upgrades. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you. Some of the mods were worth the work and some not so much.
These are awesome modifications. Really fantastic.
Thank you! More to come soon.
Wow this is an awesome rig. The mods are absolutely beautiful. New subscriber here. I love supporting fellow creators. Great looking rig.
Thank you. Hoping to do a full tour video with other mods soon. Subscribed as well.
Great mods! Thanks for sharing. We just Subscribed! 😀
Cool. Hope to share more in the future.
Great video and beautiful rig! We have a 2020 Entegra Qwest and I could see myself doing some of those mods as well!
Thank you. Yes, most of the mods I have in my other videos are not Winnebago specific. The Qwest was on my short list when I bought the View. Hope you stick around for other future mods.
LOVE your channel. We've watched and re-watched to learn more for our new 22D! Would love to know which smart TV you installed above the kitchen counter? Would you mind sharing the link? Thank you!
Hi Lindsay, the TV is a 32 inch LG Smart TV. I bought it at Best Buy at the time but it's also available on Amazon. Link is below. It is not a simple swap out unfortunately. There is major modification required to the existing Winnebago bracket. It requires decent carpentry skills. There may be other TV's that install easier, but still would required the Winnebago bracket to be modified. I bought the LG because it matches the cabinets well. Thanks for watching. If you need more detail, let me know. www.amazon.com/LG-LM627B-720P-Smart-32LM627BPUA/dp/B09CGD4KD1/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3UDFCRNVDJ3OK&keywords=32+inch+lg+smart+tv&qid=1650577218&sprefix=32+inch+lg+smart+tv%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-8
Great tips 👍 Happy travels 😃
Thank you!
Great mods! So jealous of your living space! 😂
We like the more abundant space compared to the Insterstate 24 which is only 11 inches shorter. Not as nimble as your 19 though but we are not empty nester either;)
@@rvlifediy you need the space for the kiddos! 😂
Wowwww. Nice job!!
Thank you.
The wet bay mod looks very interesting !
The others look very interesting also.
Going to get the max air board.
The wet bay mod took a tremendous amount of work, and requires all the original plumbing in that area to be cut out. That is where all the plumbing lines for the entire motorhome comes together. I wouldn't recommend doing it unless one is really motivated to rip out all the original plumbing (The factory job was done with wrong fitting at many of the connections) and causes small water drips.The Max air fan mod is definitely worth it.
@@rvlifediyI’m a retired Plumber
@@rickc9873 Well you will get a good laugh if you are up for it. You may be able to peak up at your electrical side and see the exposed pluming. That is the bottom of the shower where all the plumbing comes together. Their plumbing diagram is on their website. For 2020 and 2021 (can't speak for 2022), they used white tubing instead of pex at many of the hard to reach connections and crimped the tubing to pex connectors with cinch clamps. I had 2 different diameter tubing way oversized as well as connecting to pex connectors instead of barbed fittings with proper clamps. I had a major water leak that promped the repair and it was faster for me to do it, then waiting for warranty to do it. Hope yours isn't the same. It was all reported to Winnebago corporate so hopefully they fixed that issue.
Rick, I had modified the wet bay in our 2007 View in much the same way, but hadn't yet jumped into the job in our 2021 Navion. Last winter I found a fatal flaw in the plumbing design. In order to accommodate the city water fill system, Winnebago installs a long loop in between the water tank (which is in the heated coach) and the water pump (which is almost adjacent to the tank). This long loop, which goes into the wet bay and then returns to the pump, is the first thing to freeze and block the plumbing. So, I may as well solve that problem at the same time as redoing the wet bay. Did you ever do yours? Another aspect is the improper plumbing fittings, which some other TH-camrs had also mentioned. Any advice there?
Looks like some great mods! ~ Shion and Matthew
Thank you!
Not even 8 weeks with us and step motor broke, I fell to cement and crushed my femoral nerve, agony, pain meds, no sleep, can't feel my leg from hip to knee, cold. Thanks Winnebago! Also wife cut her hand twice on microwave vents, razor sharp facing upwards! Cabinet buttons get stuck, nightmare. Cabinets out of alignment and one drawer out of alignment. Black tank valve opened in route and well you guessed what happened next, covered in our own excrement!💩🤢
Sorry to hear Don. Hope you get better. Just take 1 problem at a time and get them fixed. It takes about a year to work out the bugs and even worse these days with the poor quality control. Working with a dealer for the repairs is no fun at all and very time consuming. Good luck on the repairs.
What did you use for your cab curtain. Is it bolted on. What metal material did you use. Great idea for that spot instead of putting up window shades. Quick privacy.
I used to have an Amazon link, but a commenter mentioned that they received the wrong piece from the company (OMAC USA). Apparently the new curtains have a 2 piece track instead of 1 piece like I have. They are cab divider curtains made for a regular Sprinter. Here is the link. amzn.to/3rINj3m You may want to call the company regarding the track. You need the track to be just wide enough to cover the opening. I installed mine with vhb tape on both ends (helps with keeping it in place) that touch the cab plastic, and installed thin long screws (2 on each side). I used my own screws and not the ones came with it. Notice that the curtains do not go all the way to the floor (which was fine with me). I did not do an install video, but I show snips of the install throughout random videos but don't recall which ones. Hope that help. The cab curtain makes a tremendous different in controlling the temperature as well (even with the large gap on the bottom).
Great video! Just subscribed to your channel 🙌
Thanks for subbing. Checking your channel out.
Vehicle must be super heavy with the extra 30 gallons. Have you done a helwig sway bar? Might help with your weight issues, in addition to the sumos
Yes water is really heavy. The Sprinter Cutaway handles terrible even without any weight added to the RV. I put on the hellwig sway bars, a Supersprimg helper springs, and a trackbar. All helped a great amount.
Love your "Mods" videos, and have done some them myself following your lead. I just bought the same Seelevel kit in order to upgrade the tank level monitor ability. Were you able to use existing wires to the tanks, propane, and pump switch, or did you run new ones, and what route did you use to get the wires down through the passenger side of the coach to the equipment. And I see that the original tank monitor is still in place and functional, so maybe that answers one of my questions about new wires. Thanks again.
Hi David, it may be easier if you email me (about section of channel). I've helped several people with this install and hard to keep everything straight. You utilize all existing wires. Your new sensors will be installed at your old sensor location and utilize the existing wiring everything. Email me with particulars. The black tank is the toughest and easier to explain via phone.
Would have been nice if you had listed each mod added with a link to where each mod was purchased, ie) Amazon. Love what you have done. I have a 18D & need to make similar changes. Single older woman & use these videos to figure out where I can get the supplies.
That's a good suggestion. I'll have to work on that. In the mean time, if there is anything specific, please comment on it.
@@rvlifediy I was wondering where you got your maxx fan for the bathroom?
I got from RV Ugrade Store but they have them in stock at etrailer or Amazon. I have the Max Fan Deluxe 7500 (10 speed with remote). The cover is smoke in color. The 7000 model has a white cover. I specifically wanted the remote control. They have manual versions without remote for cheaper price. The install took me about 2 hour total and 1/2 the time was removing the old fan and roof sealant.
@@rvlifediy TY. Unfortunately, I would have to hire out - Only 4’11” & 65 yo - Single. Have no business climbing anything at this stage of life.
Totally understand. I know those RV shops are really hard to get into these days. Another option would be a mobile RV mechanic.
Very nice RV and great mods. However, my biggest concern with this model is the cargo carrying capacity, which is only about 1000lb. You've added another 30 gallons of water (240+ lb) and you mentioned kids, so you've got at least four people... How can you possibly get loaded with food, clothes, bedding, etc. and not go over the CCC?
That's always a challenge with any Sprinter RV. My kids are still small, and our total family weight is 379 so we have a big advantage over most people. My occc started with 1060. I don't carry the sprinter jack, spare table and legs, curtains, countertop covers, ladder, manuals, cushiins,or any other accessory that the winnebago came with. Also removed 100 +- pounds of wiring and metal as well. And the 240 pounds of extra water can be filled at the campground. I don't think it matters what you so, and occc will still be a problem so I don't have a better answer for you than that. Not sure how full time RVers do it. I could remove the spare tire and brackets and gain another 50+pounds but would rather have the spare.
Goodness, nice work man! Not sure about "must do" as I'm betting most of us "can't do" many of these. Makes me feel a little less enthusiastic about the Navion though since all of these mods make so much sense, I question why many of them aren't at least factory options.
Did you weigh everything? What's the effect on the CCC?
As you already know the OCCC on these sprinter chassis are a big weakness. The only thing of significance is the added fresh water tank. I removed all the factory bunk ladder, Murphy bed drapes, extra table and leg, extra cushions, heavy steel brackets at the old TV, and a heavy amount of steel in the wet bay. I say I broke even or better on the weight except for the water weight itself. There is room to remove some heavy pressed wood in the closet areas I have not bothered with. Fortunately we travel pretty light. I have several other improvements I'll try to film soon. Thanks for watching.
@@rvlifediy Winnebago is tight lipped about the OCCC on the sticker. Can you share yours how it was originally equipped?
@@navajasrs2402 1030. I have every option except the acrylic dual pane windows and the cab seat covers which would give more occc with the acrylic windows.
@@navajasrs2402 so what is OCCC?
@@dannyfang4899 Occupant Cargo Carrying Capacity.
Great video for inspiration. Wondering what size and maker of garbage can? Just picked up our 22D and I think that is the best spot for it. Thanks for taking the time to put the video together!
Hi if you click on the description part of the next video, you will see the Amazon link for the exact Garbage can. It's a 4 gallon, and it is a nice size that works well for us. Thanks for watching.
Craig again (lol), can you share what you used to mount your TV to the wall by the dinette....looking at similar install with a 24" computer monitor, thanks!!!
Hey Craig, I used the following from Amazon. amzn.to/3cON1k5
I used it with some VHB Tape, and 2 very small screws. Let me know if this works or if you need more info.
Great video, very informative. Do have the links for the items listed in the video? This would be very helpful.
Thank you. I will get some links up by tomorrow.
Nice, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching.
Just watched your video about reprogramming so the speed limit sign recognition works properly. Thank you. Do you know of any Mods to make the rearview camera work while driving forward? I know Mid City Engineering makes a DIY programmer, but it is quite expensive.
I haven't heard of any fix for that. Last I read on mid city (this was about 1 year ago so things may have changed) they were still working on it. They had the regular van programmer, but not for the cut away/cab chassis yet. Maybe they have that complete now. I wished there was something simple. I have been waiting as well because I don't want to put in an aftermarket camera.
Hi
I’m interested in the TV Mod.
How did you run the cable wires from the factory TV to the Dinette TV.
Thanks !
Hi Rick, I didn't run any cable wires to that TV. Being a smart TV, we stream any TV through TH-cam TV which is built into the smart TV. Won't do much good of course if you hard coonect to cable. It can be done though. If you remove the bottom panel of the couch, the water hoses are there. You can zip to that bundle and remove the 4 screws under the shower pan, and you can pull the wire through. If you need more detail on that, just email me and I can show how it can be done.
@@rvlifediy Thanks !
I like your videos , keep them coming.
I bought the same year and model RV and the same trash can as you after watching this video. I have a question, does the garbage can open and close every time you wain in and out of the door? Mine does and I swear at it each time.
I have a small piece of electrical tape over half the sensor on the cover. So the only way to open it is to hold your hand really close to the sensor. You will have to experiment with the tape placement but that solved the problem for me. Hope that helps.
Good call, I did the same with motion-sensing switches in my house but didn't think to do it to the garbage can. I know you sold your RV but I wanted to thank you for your videos. I am selling my house this Friday and moving into the 2020 24D full time and purchased several of your hacks, including the ruggable. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos in the future and maybe I will copy your next RV as well. :)
@ShaunPagan Awesome. Hope your full timing goes great. I have yet to tackle full timing but it may be something we do for a while in the future.
Watched all your great videos! thank you for sharing with us! I have 2020 Winnebago Navion 24J, I really like the OMAC Cab Divider Van Cabin Curtain that you installed. I bought the same OMAC one, came with the rail/track cut in two from the middle. The place where the track is installed is suspended in the middle, so it can only be fixed on both sides with screws. I can't mount it. I'm curious how you did it. thank you.
My track is 1 piece. Each side is secured with 2 screws near the very end. I didn't use the screws it came with. I used long screws with a very small head so the curtain clips can slide over them. Did you say your track is 2 piece?
@@rvlifediy Thank you so muc for your prompt answer! I bought back in March this year, The rail came with two pieces. may be shorter easy for shopping. I did return it. I called company and email Omac Amazon this morning and got back two different answers, Amazon said one piece, and company said two pieces. I'm going to try to buy it again from Amazon.
@@stephenma4382 no prob. Yes it seems you received different ones than I have. The company does make different versions.
@@rvlifediy Also, did you trimmed both side of curtain? and how much did you trimmed your track? I just ordered another one hopefully come with one piece track. thank you.
@@stephenma4382 I don't remember having to cut the track at all. If I did, I only would have cut one side. I did drill holes for the 2 screws on both ends.
For the closet shelf board what did you use? Also the brackets look like small .5x.5 or 1x1 L brackets? Thanks buddy
For the shelf, I used a shelf that was in the house already and was the correct depth. I just had to cut the width. For the brackets I used these exact ones. amzn.to/3BzlixG
thanks for the video, some great mods. Can you give more details of auxiliary water tank, what model is it, where you purchased it and any installation details. Thanks!
I bought the tank from Amazon. I don't know how to do the Amazon links but it is Class A Customs | T-3000-BPK| 30 Gallon Fresh Water Tank & Plumbing Kit RV Concession
I see it's still available for about $100. You will have to get some minor misc parts from a big box store. If you know how to work with pex, it's a pretty easy install. Under the bench there is an access panel that faces the murphy bed. You will see the fresh water line from the factory tank behind the panel. You connect to that with a T fitting. You also connect the water vent line to the factory vent. I also installed a shut off valve at the tank connection so I can isolate the tank if I want to. Ask away on any questions as it's hard to explain all in 1 response.
@@rvlifediy thanks! I'm not sure which coach I'll get, Winnie 24d or 24J, but will definitely put in aux water tank.
@@mikecarbone8475 If I had to do it again, I would consider the 24J. I would rather have a fixed bed than make the murphy bed each day but many people seem to love the murphy bed. The only downside I saw on the 24J was the smaller bathroom. 24 J has the space to swap out the existing tank to a larger tank in the dame spot.
Who installed your Sumo springs and Fox shocks? You or a mechanics shop?
I installed both in my driveway. Front sumo springs, rear sumo sprints, and front sumo springs. Each item took about 1 hour. It is easier if you have leveling jacks.
I own a 2020 24J and love what you have done to your 2020D (our close 2nd choice). Thank you very much for sharing. How hard was it to install the SeaLevel II tank monitoring system? The OEM tank monitor system is terrible and I would love to have more precise measurement of the tank levels. Thank you!
I love the 24J due to the fixed bed. The hardest part of the sealevel is cutting the display panel to the wood. They do make a filler panel (that replaces the one place) but is not the exact same size. The rest is easy if you know how to crimp wires. On the 24J the fresh water tank is easier access. The gray water tank can be accessed by removing 4 screws from under and the entire side panel will swing up. The black tank is the hardest but doable. You can reuse all the existing wiring so you will need some butt connectors. Email me if you have questions.
How do you like the J? We are torn between J and D?
@@autumnauston we originally planned to buy the D. But loved the extra cargo carrying capacity and storage. Also liked that we could access the bed with slide in. If you are over 6’ tall, the bed in the J may be too small. We did like how the galley counter space in the D was bigger. But looking back, we have zero issues with the J counter space. Good luck.
How do you like the D? We are stuck between D and the J
We like it. If you've had a precious rv with a fixed bed, you will appreciate the J more for that. But we needed the much larger kitchen and the bathroom in the D so we compromised. We cook a lot so having the larger counter space was a good decision as well as the larger bathroom. I wished my Murphy was a fixed bed though but not enough space. If you like to entertain, the D is a good plan for that. If I had the J, I would have to remodel the kitchen right away and I would be happy.
Can you show how you mounted that TV in the kitchen? I tried to do the same but had a hard time modifying the existing mount.
Hi Brad, I looked at the completed project and it's really hard to show on video. It will depend on the mounting points your new TV has. Basically, I removed and discarded the center metal hanging plate and attached the old angle metal to the TV and that angle to the outer metal plate. I had to cut some of the wood as well. If you need more info, send me your email and I can provide further clarification.
I bought the cab curtains you recommend. They came with a two piece metal channel part that I cannot make sense of how to install it. The ends the parts are curved and it comes with two plastic inserts that go somewhere. It did not come with any instructions, and I see that your track looks like a one piece system. Did you buy a one piece track somewhere else to make the installation more simple. Just not sure how to put it up......Thanks for the great videos, and keep them coming please
Hi David. My track is one piece and it came with the curtains. There was no cutting or modifying required. Send me an email with some pictures, but based on your description, it doesn't sound like the one I have.
@@rvlifediy Thanks. I just sent a message to the seller letting them know the difference between what I got and what you got for curtain rods. I asked them to send me the one piece rod, so let's see what happens. The photo in the order page does show a Mercedes Sprinter passenger van and not a cutaway chassis Sprinter.
@@5290harp I don't think there is much of anything that is made foe the cutaway/cab chassis. I checked my Amazon link again, and it's the exact one I received and the description states 1 rod with 2 curtains as well. Let me know if I can help in any way.
@@rvlifediy Yikes! I am getting nowhere with getting a new rod for the curtains. Here is what they said:
Dear customer,
Thank you for reaching back out to us. Unfortunately, this product is no longer produced to be shipped with one bar due to damages that were occurring during the shipping process. We apologize for this inconvenience and would like to offer a partial refund to keep the product and make the modifications necessary for proper installation. If you do not agree with this approach please let us know so we may issue your free return shipping label.
Kind Regards,
OMAC USA Team.
Maybe you should take down that link to this product so others do not get this run-around.
I can't see how the two piece (with curved ends to conform to the Sprinter Roof) can be modified to work in our situation. Or, is there another source for the rod?
Thanks for your help.
Got rid of the link. Not sure what the issue is with the seller. It's a simple thin little metal rod. Mine came straight and was not curved. It's so thin that it curves to whatever way you want. I'll have to check if there is some other source. How I have it installed, it is slightly curved (you can't see on camera. It naturally takes the shape of the way you mount it.
do you tow a car? If so how is it?
I do not tow. If I did, I would probably tow a Ford Escape Hybrid or the Ford maverick hybrid for the lighter weight. I towed with my previous RV so taking a break from towing for now.
What are those clips you use to hold the coat hangers from moving in the closet??
Check the next video description in the interior tour video. There is a link at the bottom of the description. They are barbell stoppers. It's a really tight fit so if you want it to slide easily, you need to sand down the inside of the stopper little bit.
P.S. rodents began eating our "eco" soy based insulated wiring harness on our Mercedes sprinter, engine light, no power, no brakes, had to be towed. Over $1500 out of pocket due to waiting for the new one from Germany under insurance coverage takes 2 weeks. Lots of fun!
Yes these eco wires are useless. Thanks govmt! If you are in a well known rodent area, they make strobe lights for the engine bay to help keep them out.
Got the recommended electronic stobe vibrating noise making rodent repeller installed asap, with rope light under engine and around base of unit!
Can you tell me what controller you ordered for the front max air fan? Was the swap easy & did you need to do any soldering?
You will need a new key pad
PIN INTAKE\EXHAUST part number 10-21304K and PCB REMOTE AUTOLIFT part number 10B21275K. You will need to crimp wires with butt connectors which is simple. The 2nd part number is more expensive and I don't recall if I even needed (1st part number) is required for sure. I talked to Maxair tech support which I would suggest and they will let you know for sure and you can buy the parts directly from them. Hope that helps.
@@rvlifediy Thanks for the info & I'll definitely give tech support a call
Great video. Do you have a link to the control board for the Main Maxair Fan? I definitely want to replace the bathroom one and get this control board you are talking about!
Hi yes I have the information. Look about 2 comments down and the info is there. I'll update the info in the description later when I get near a computer.
I put the info in the description now. Hope that helps. Make sure you contact Maxair directly to minimize the parts you need.
@@rvlifediy that is awesome! You are the best!
@@missriggy No problem.
Hey, Craig again....my engineer brain is churning......for the MAXX Air Fan in the bathroom that you installed, does it do intake and exhaust? Reason I ask, is I could pull air in with it and exhaust out the front one and not have to do the front fan MOD to make it an intake/exhaust.....are you concerned with smells from the bath area? You thoughts....thanks, Craig!!
Hey Craig, with the added fresh water tank install you doubled your fresh water capacity but cut your OCCC by 250 lbs. Has that been a problem for you? It allows you to boondock longer but since you can stay out longer you also need more food. Is that at all an issue for you? Or is the fresh water really the limiting factor, not food? Also, I've been trying to workout how to add more freezer storage with some kind of portable freezer, probably a 12volt, in an external storage bay. I'm looking at the 24J or V as they have better external storage options for this, I think. Have you thought about doing something like this?
OCCC is always a problem on these Sprinter Chassis. I just remove anything unnecessary like the extra tables, posts. curtains, etc and do the best I can. Max we go is about 4 days as we travel as a family of 4 and shower every day as well as cooking/dishes. Food is not an issue with this DC Compressor refrigerator/freezer combo. It has much more usable space than previous propane fridges, so food is not the limiting factor for us. It's the water and gray tank. Water runs out first, gray tank gets close to full, and black tank has plenty of capacity. The View has the best gray and black tank capacity than all other sprinter based RV's which is nice. If I went to Alaska, I would add a DC freezer in between the driver and passenger seat, but that will limit spinning the seats (which we don't use that function). 24V gives you no space in the living area. 24J gives decent space and nice dinette, but small kitchen. All have their limitations. 24J would have been my main choice if the kitchen was a little bigger. Hope that helps.
@@rvlifediy That was a quick response, thanks! I have been researching which small class c would be right for our situation and I've definitely settled on the Winnebago Navion/ View. I like the Tiffin Wayfarer too and their raised rear twin bed with the big garage below looks good. But it just doesn't seem to measure up the the Winnebagos.
Now to decide in which floorplan. I like the V as we're a recent retired couple who sometimes needs to get a little (or a lot of space) for sleeping as I snore, well... enough said. The J might work as well but the D just doesn't seem like it would work for us. No separate bedroom I think would be an issue.
We'd like to use this to travel cross country to visit our kids who've all spread out and we expect to be on some long trips in it (month long or longer). But probably not boondocking a lot. My wife has some special dietary needs that I think we'd need more freezer space to accommodate. How big of a DC freezer do you think will fit between the seats? (The bigger the better.)
And will I need to add more solar, like you did, to power it? (I probably will anyway.) What about lithium? Does more solar go hand in hand with needing to upgrade to lithium?
That was long, sorry. I love your videos BTW, very helpful. And I never fast forward through the "boring parts", it's all good to me. 🤓
@@volofly2011 a fixed bed is what I miss the most. The 24V won't give you much space in the front to have any guests for dining or entertainment overall. Not sure if that is important. If it's not, the 24v gives you the best bedroom area. All compromises of course. In between the seats you could put a pretty large dometic freezer but I never measured. It would be hard to climb over but you can always go around to the side doors. The wayfarer is nice, but the occc is even lower unfortunately. Yes you would have to do more solar and lithium regardless if you want to boondock as the factory system is basically a starter system.
@@rvlifediy thanks for your responses Craig. Just to be clear, is the factory solar system enough to keep the fridge running while on the road? It is my understanding that it is. And do you think you would you need to add the extra solar to run an additional DC freezer while on the road? (My plan is that we'll likely plug into shore power or run the generator when stopped most of the time.)
BTW, I know this is a noob question (this will be our first RV afterall) but how are these 12 volt compressor fridges powered once you are plugged into shore power or running the generator? Still off the house batteries and the batteries are charged via the inverter off shore or generator?
Thanks again, you've been so kind to answer my questions so promptly.
@@volofly2011 In my opinion, no the factory 200 watt is not adequate. You will get into net negative numbers as the 200 watts will not bring in more than you use. I'm assuming you will be using the water pump, lights, fridge, heater, ceiling vent fans, etc, and the inverter once in a while. If you will be plugging in every other day, then yes you will be fine without doing anything. And that is without the added DC freezer. If you will be planning on driving every day, then that is a different story as it will charge slightly driving too. It all depends on how you will use your RV. If you plan on running the generator all the time, then it won't be an issue either, but that generator is loud and annoying to most others. Everyone uses their RV different so I don't have a simple answer. We like to use it similar to a house and not have to worry about power all the time, or run into issues. 12 volt compressor fridges run off the house dc power and gen/plug in will recharge the batteries. If you got the information that the factory 200 watts solar is good enough from others with the same set up, maybe its ok (hope you didn't get that info from Litchtsinn). From my experience it's not enough. In winter, it's practically useless.
Do you have any more details on the macerator modification.
It's is my favorite mod but at the same time was the most difficult one. The abs plumbing from the gray tank and black tank will have to be redone with standard plumbing pipe from home depot. I installed an RV specific 90 degree adapter at the back tank with an input for the gray waste. The biggest issue I had was the hose storage for the macerator. I utilized the existing wet bay, but in order to do that, I had to rip our the entire wet bay as well as redo all the freshwater lines. It would be much easier to make some type of storage under the RV for the macerator hose but that was the challenge I couldn't a fix for. If you need more specific items, let me know.
Thanks I’ll wait a bit on mod
Who makes the cab window covers?
These covers were made by Quest Overland.
I really appreciate your efforts, Thanks for the sharing with us, New friend, Like 33