Nice! I've had this unit a while. Have you noticed massive mash temperature fluctuations? I've had a couple of beers ferment completely differently to what they should and I think this is due to the heat controller being way off. I wondered if you'd found any methods to counteract this? I was keeping the highest element on during mashing and also keeping the lid on, with the recirculation arm down the side - I think this may have contributed. I've just done a brew where I kept the lid off and turned the 2.3kw element off throughout the mash. I got massive efficiency as I did a 90 minute mash (ended up with a 1.050 beer where I should have had 1.045), so we'll see how it ferments. Also, did you modify your lid?
I did find a aprox 3 to 5 degree C temperature fluctuations. one way to help with this is using a insulating jacket (I do not have a good one) and the lid should only be used on very small batches if the heat and pump are on (grain bed will cause the pump to run dry on larger batches). I did modify my lid as I will be attempting to use it as a still (future vid). I also would like to modify it more so that I could add a agitator (keeping the lid on thorough the mashing stage)
I find rice hulls helps a lot, with keeping things flowing in a bigger bill. I always brew 10 gal batches on it, and that pretty much maxes her out. I only aim for4-5% beers, but when you're looking for 2 kegs a batch, it's a lot of volume. Do rice hulls affect efficiency?
@@therandomrobot3801 Absolutely. half pound for a small batch, a pound for a big batch. Aim for a pound if you're using a lot of flake or rye in the mash. From what I read it increases your efficiency, so you can dial the grist back slightly. Recirculation is improved, as such, efficiency. Nothing worse than a stuck mash.
I did find that when boiling you have to set temp to 103degrees to get a rolling boil . This means you cant use time facility as it never reaches that temp to switch off . The controller isn't very good .
Yes they are, but I am looking at reinforcing them (not sure how yet, maybe if I could get my hands on some small stainless steel bar stock and make a ring to tap and screw on the bottom of the legs). If they break I am thinking of just putting some blocking in to keep the basket off the bottom (this prevents scorching and allows the pump to work freely).
Well the minimum amount of water for your mash should be 20 L ( I would not go any smaller). This will not yield 20 L of beer the grain will retain some of the water after mashing (around 2% to 4% of the total volume) plus you will have boil losses. So expect a yield of aprox 17 L. You will then have further losses during the racking process. hope this helps
please turn the music down it's louder then the narration and boring. Other then that your narration is informative.
will do....still working on my editing skills
Nice! I've had this unit a while. Have you noticed massive mash temperature fluctuations? I've had a couple of beers ferment completely differently to what they should and I think this is due to the heat controller being way off. I wondered if you'd found any methods to counteract this? I was keeping the highest element on during mashing and also keeping the lid on, with the recirculation arm down the side - I think this may have contributed. I've just done a brew where I kept the lid off and turned the 2.3kw element off throughout the mash. I got massive efficiency as I did a 90 minute mash (ended up with a 1.050 beer where I should have had 1.045), so we'll see how it ferments.
Also, did you modify your lid?
I did find a aprox 3 to 5 degree C temperature fluctuations. one way to help with this is using a insulating jacket (I do not have a good one) and the lid should only be used on very small batches if the heat and pump are on (grain bed will cause the pump to run dry on larger batches). I did modify my lid as I will be attempting to use it as a still (future vid). I also would like to modify it more so that I could add a agitator (keeping the lid on thorough the mashing stage)
How did it ferment?
I find rice hulls helps a lot, with keeping things flowing in a bigger bill. I always brew 10 gal batches on it, and that pretty much maxes her out. I only aim for4-5% beers, but when you're looking for 2 kegs a batch, it's a lot of volume. Do rice hulls affect efficiency?
I have not tried them as of yet. I might give them a go and see. Thanks
@@therandomrobot3801 Absolutely. half pound for a small batch, a pound for a big batch. Aim for a pound if you're using a lot of flake or rye in the mash. From what I read it increases your efficiency, so you can dial the grist back slightly. Recirculation is improved, as such, efficiency. Nothing worse than a stuck mash.
thanks
I did find that when boiling you have to set temp to 103degrees to get a rolling boil . This means you cant use time facility as it never reaches that temp to switch off . The controller isn't very good .
good advice on the boil temp. thanks
Are those legs needed on the mash tun? I found them being very weak. Can it be removed?
Yes they are, but I am looking at reinforcing them (not sure how yet, maybe if I could get my hands on some small stainless steel bar stock and make a ring to tap and screw on the bottom of the legs). If they break I am thinking of just putting some blocking in to keep the basket off the bottom (this prevents scorching and allows the pump to work freely).
Can you pump out the wort from the top
Ehi! What is the minimum volume of beer that you can brew with this grainfather model? Thanks from Italy
Well the minimum amount of water for your mash should be 20 L ( I would not go any smaller). This will not yield 20 L of beer the grain will retain some of the water after mashing (around 2% to 4% of the total volume) plus you will have boil losses. So expect a yield of aprox 17 L. You will then have further losses during the racking process. hope this helps
very cool
thank you