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Thanks this saved me some money. Fixed both taillights

Are those legs needed on the mash tun? I found them being very weak. Can it be removed?

Fixed it!! Thanks. Small tip: I used an oscillating saw to cut out the hole. It worked great.

Thanks for the awesome math lesson ! Keep the vids coming .

Where did you purchase your bulkhead fitting from? Having a hard time finding some place that sales them. Thanks!

I fixed the round light but I couldn’t the little side marker …. Any way I’m happy with the results ….thanks for the video

My bx25 died today. After 14 years the original battery is dead . I always put lithium grease on my terminals.

The way I was shown was to wrap a piece of solid 12 awg bare wire around 1/2 pipe and sweat it onto outside. I did 2 alternating wraps

I find rice hulls helps a lot, with keeping things flowing in a bigger bill. I always brew 10 gal batches on it, and that pretty much maxes her out. I only aim for4-5% beers, but when you're looking for 2 kegs a batch, it's a lot of volume. Do rice hulls affect efficiency?

I did find that when boiling you have to set temp to 103degrees to get a rolling boil . This means you cant use time facility as it never reaches that temp to switch off . The controller isn't very good .

Well you solved that, now you can work on your audio levels...

Hint, hint increase surface area on the inner 1/2" Pipe by sanding the entire length for increased condensing.

It would be better to have the water inlet and outlet on opposite sides with the inlet pointing down and the outlet up with the whole thing tilted down at the inlet end to ensure no air in the tube and a constant flow of fresh water all round the inner tube. It might work the way you did it but will probably need a strong current of water.

Ehi! What is the minimum volume of beer that you can brew with this grainfather model? Thanks from Italy

cool!!!!

Nice! I've had this unit a while. Have you noticed massive mash temperature fluctuations? I've had a couple of beers ferment completely differently to what they should and I think this is due to the heat controller being way off. I wondered if you'd found any methods to counteract this? I was keeping the highest element on during mashing and also keeping the lid on, with the recirculation arm down the side - I think this may have contributed. I've just done a brew where I kept the lid off and turned the 2.3kw element off throughout the mash. I got massive efficiency as I did a 90 minute mash (ended up with a 1.050 beer where I should have had 1.045), so we'll see how it ferments. Also, did you modify your lid?

Great Video! Did you create a reflux column? Would love to see a video on that. - Also when connecting the threaded sections would you use teflon tape?

please turn the music down it's louder then the narration and boring. Other then that your narration is informative.

My background is 20yrs+ in electrical soldering from BGA to SMD and all manner in between including automotive and AC. I have during that time I have also been a small manufacturer for the scrap metal industry and, seeing you work, I can give you one pretty good bit of advice I've learnt. After a light dry and preheat, start heating only from the bottom and feed solder in from only the top. Copper is an excellent conductor and doing it this way ensures everything it heated through enough for the solder to wick into the joint. It's also an absolute indicator because if the solder won't take from the top then you know the material is still too cold to make a solid joint. I hope this helps.

very cool

Another tip: use female fittings on pieces that take the most effort to build. If you drop that liebig and mash the soft copper threads you need to replace the fitting. When you remove the bad piece you can heat the other joints and cause leaks. Best to make it so that is less likely to happen in the first place. And definitely use the ready made tee fitting that already has the reducer as previously suggested. Cheaper and easier!

They make the T with the correct size outlets. 3/4-1/2-1/2 Reduces your parts count and $$$

quedo hermoso y fuerte felicitaciones

Nice job Robot, heat is either your enemy or your friend. If you're clean and fluxed like you were with just enough heat to cause capillary action and then stop solder joints will turn out like yours did.

Forget that buy a new one.

Got to keep your heat on the work when you apply the solder. Taking the torch away as you’re feeding in solder just helps cool the parts.

Thank you so much !!!

Where did you get the SS parts?

We don't have sodder here in Australia, would solder work?

I had JUST THESE questions as my first battery will no longer take a charge. This was clear and easy to watch.

hi is it also possible to buy a new board my soldering skills suck

thank you very much this will help i need to do the drivers side on my tuscon n this bein for the same year hyundai should be the same process , thanks

cant believe 10 views and only 2 likes. first vid I stumbled across. thought ya did a really good job...but with nearly 40 yrs of off n on culinary duties...one might say I am a definite Foodie. <G> gonna go out on a linb here and guess yer Canadian ? LOL BOTH sides of my Fam are Maritimes! have you made "Plum Pudding"? grew up fiending for that every Nov and Dec !! sounds like they bare vey close except that Plum must have suet I am told. would love to see that one. Peace. Mac in Maine.

So nice! Love it

Love the rolling pin trick! Thanks for this, especially us WestCoasters.

good build!!

Thank you very much for this video! I was able to repair both sides because of you!

Thanks for this excellent guide, especially for the mechanically challenged people like me!

Is there a unit that can replace this after market if so any suggestions?