Pretty sure it was the great Dave Chapelle that said "Some people think cucumbers taste better pickled". Been setting gear mesh by feel for over 30 years. If it works, it works.
@@DoRC The paper trick doesn't work on the Arrma 3S BLX cars. I tried it on my Typhon once and since the gears aren't held securely in place until the cover is back on, when I did put it back on, I knew immediately that it was too tight, so I've just been making sure it feels and sounds right and I've had no problems. The stock plastic spur gear has held up a surprisingly long time even though I always run it on 3S and have the punch on the highest setting.
Can’t tell you how thankful I am for your channel, I’ve always liked rc but never upgraded or messed with parts unless they broke, learned something new today!
I always run the gears round a few times to find the tightest/closest point between them then make it so I can rock the spur/crown gear back & forth by the smallest fraction, just enough to be able to hear it clicking.! Pretty much as you've said.! 👍 👍 👍
Perfect for beginner in RC. I used paper method on Slash, when i started with a hobby (6 years ago). Now i adjust it faster only with hearing of clicking noise. But it is possible when you have big gears. When you have 64Dp gears in 1/10 race models, you have to see it from the side. Because, there is a need absolute precision in 0,1mm steps. I remember 29T pinion with 80T Spur for example, fine tuning Mesh. But it is nothing impossible, just patience needed :-)
Yeah the paper method can work but it can also leave your mesh way too loose depending on the paper you use how tight you push them together and the pitch of the gear. Doing it by field/ear is definitely the way to go
I thought the paper was a good idea but you brought up an excellent point. I've been changing pinion gears a lot on my TLR typhon and have used this method and it's worked great. I am leaving a little to much room though which would explain the marks I can see on the teeth. Now I know to trust the feel and sound of my gears.
Yeah the paper method can be effective but it can also be very ineffective depending on a bunch of different variables. Glad this video helped :-) Thanks for watching and if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated!
Excellent video man! I agree the paper trick is no good at all. And thank you for mentioning the fact that the mesh needs to be checked all around and some gears are not perfectly round, this is such a common oversight.
But if you adjust it for that one tooth wouldn’t it throw all the other ones out of whack? So what would be the point of checking them all when there’s only one adjustment and if they are different you will never get them all right.
Not really. Normally if you get any part of the mesh right you'll be pretty close all the way around. Sometimes you'll get unlucky and not end up meshing at the tightest spot and will need a little bit more adjustment but normally the loosest spot and the tightest spot are not that different from each other.
Great video man. Been doing it by feel for years. Actually tried the paper method not long ago and it screwed me all up, went right back to my normal method
Yeah there's so many chances for getting variable results with the paper method that I just don't think it's worthwhile. Thanks for watching and if you enjoy the videos a sub is appreciated:)
I just tried building my first speed run car for the poor boys rc mf01x challenge and I've never set mesh before and I guess I set it too tight and it ate up my gear. Got replacement hop up gears coming in and hopefully with the aid of this video I'll get it right this time
As long as you follow this process you should be good just make sure you check the mesh in a few different spots once you think you have it right because there's always going to be tighter and looser spots throughout.
Why I love my HPI Baja 5sc, Kraken Vekta, and Primal MT. The gear mesh is preset and you have a ton of gear selections to choose from and never have to set the gear mesh as it's always preset. Take the Baja the total number of teeth of the pinion and spur gear is always 74 teeth so the clutch bell shaft and transmission shaft are preset for perfect gear mesh regardless of the gear ratio as long as the pinion and spur teeth count add up to 74.
Thank you very much for this great video very helpful my friend I watched this an then went an checked mine an oh gosh how much more I could get a better mesh so yeah thanks again
Always on point information an testing. I have a honorable mention Motor mounts showing the difference between stock an 7075. I believe you upgrade your motor mount should be also. Being able to keep a proper Mesh.
I've never liked the paper trick. Your video hits on what I've largely done and have had a lot of success with which is go by sound in that click, click, click. If I hear that, I'm good. After watching this, I think i can go a pinch tighter while still maintaining that wiggle click sound. I'll test it out. The tip for checking the gears in multiple spots because they're not perfect was a good one. Nice video.
Yeah a lot of people don't realize just how little backlash these gears really need to have. Glad you found it worthwhile :-) If you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated!
Uhhhh yea. I have that exact losi ebuggy. The thing is once you find the perfect spot and start to tighten the screws it moves slightly and is no longer perfect. This car specifically is tough because you have 4 screws to lossen/ tighten and it's very difficult to keep it still during all that.
I agree. That specific type of mount is one of the most challenging. I found the best way to do it is to bring all the screws to just a little past touching get it adjusted properly and then slowly snug the screws down in a criss-cross pattern a little bit at a time
I used the method described in this video and people told me it was too loose because you need to account for chassis flex. Any comment in regards to chassis flex? Thanks for the great content.
The goal of this method is to get the gears as close together as possible without actually binding so if you do that does not really any way it can be too loose.
I set mesh by feel as well but on plastic gears(arrma granite) the gear isn't 100% round so you will need to find the high side and then set by feel. Edit: you did mention this in last 30 seconds.
I used this method on my Traxxas Sledge and it works perfect and drives just great! It sounds super high pitched though and it doesn't sound like my dad's sledge at all. He even said we should look at it before we drive them, any idea what it is?
Variations in mesh will significantly alter the way the gears sound. That's not to say there isn't a problem but it's not inherently indicative of one. As long as you're able to hold one gear still at wiggle the other one and you've checked that in several spots around the rotation of them then you should be fine.
I called Traxxas because I keep breaking my pinion on my Sledge. Today, I broke my pinion and Spur. They referred me to your video on how to mesh it! That’s how great your videos are! Thanks for your videos!! I broke my pinion and spur. Since I’ll be taking the housing of the differential apart to install new spur, do I need to fill that with grease? If so, what do you recommend and how much? Also, what spur and pinion brand do you recommend that is stronger. Maybe the Traxxas ones are too weak. And would it fit in the Traxxas gear housing? Thanks
There are a lot of different brands out there but I had good luck with the GPM spur and tekno pinions are very good. Traxxas puts 20 million weight silicone fluid in the center differential. It's essentially a putty it's so thick. You probably won't have to add any but it's not a terrible idea to get some from Traxxas anyway to have on hand as it's fairly inexpensive. That's crazy that they recommended my video. I guess it's pretty good :-) thanks for watching!
Still waiting on the Traxxas machined spur and pinion. And the 20 million oil you recommended. Do you have a solution that you recommend to stop the sledge pinion and spur from breaking every time? You still have stock motor mount on yours?
@@DoRC unfortunately wasn't the problem. I'm at a complete loss. Using a vxl3s combo with a brand new 3rd party 3s battery. New receiver. If you have any thoughts I would love to hear what you may think.
@do629 My first thought would be potentially the battery. What brand size and c rating is it? It's possible the battery can't handle the load and The battery voltage is sagging too much causing the ESC to cut out.
Unfortunately that's not really possible. The backlash is a lot less than people think it is. For mod 1 gears it's about 0.003" or less than the width of a human hair. You really can't 3D print anything that thin
I’m trying to mesh my stock pinion and spur on my xrt ultimate. I can’t move the motor closer to mesh it. There are pins that the motor mount sits on that really don’t let me do that
Traxxas uses that pin system to do the mesh for you. It works pretty well for stock gears but if you upgrade to aftermarket gears of any kind the pin system isn't usable anymore. Either way if you want to set your mesh manually you can just take the pins out. I'd also recommend getting the aluminum motor mount screw washers that are available from Traxxas as it helps prevent the screws from digging into the plastic in the slots for the motor mount.
@@DoRC thank you!!!! I appreciate your help very much!!!! You have absolutely no idea!! Understood. The ultimate came with those aluminum washers you mentioned. Part of the $500 price. Lol!!! What automatic screwdriver do you use? I’m over hand tightening and unscrewing everything. It takes so long!!!
I would have to agree with your explanations. Some cars are harder to set mesh because when tightening the set screw the mesh can change. In those cases, the paper trick works better imo. I like using 3x5 cards and jam them in tight. But as you said, it doesn't work for all applications.
Yeah it really just depends. The mesh definitely can change When you get things tight though. The index card thing can work but technically it'll end up making the mesh too loose which will make the gears a bit more susceptible to damage under heavy load. That being said there's definitely more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching!
@@rccarsandmusic2641 Yeah I guess you could do that but that's definitely leaving things pretty subjective. Different vehicles are going to sound differently and I feel like that's kind of making it more complicated than it needs to be. The process in the video is pretty simple and if followed is essentially foolproof.
When I did this, the sound coming from the mesh was super loud, almost so loud you couldn't talk over it. I thought that it was a sign it was meshed too tight even thought I did everything you said
Different gears are going to sound differently when you mesh them. That being said if there is wiggle room between the gears and you check it in multiple different places and it's still loud there's a decent chance there's something wrong with one of your gears. You can always loosen the mesh up a little bit to accommodate for it but properly made years in good condition that are properly aligned in the vehicle should not be significantly louder with tighter mesh
Did you make sure the motor mount is correctly positioned? I've had this happen before when tightening down the motor mount it very slightly slipped out of alignment and caused the pinion gear to become slightly angled by 1/1000 of an inch and negatively impacted the mesh with the spur gear. This can also be the result of your pinion gear not being installed correctly and perfectly centered on the motor shaft. In most cases, when you have the mesh set perfectly then the gears should be silent when your rc is coasting and you slightly let off the throttle removing the force off the pinion and spur gear.
I had the right idea I was putting up a 15 on my big rock 6s I forgot to rotate and then check and it chipped my pinion I guess I have to run it on the 16 Again thank for your east and informative videos was able to run the 16 no prob just need to watch my temps lol
You're welcome! Yeah unfortunately when getting mesh really close like I recommend it's definitely important to verify that tightest spot because you can easily end up with binding if you don't. Sometimes you get lucky as I have forgotten to do it in the past but you can also often hear it if it's a problem. I always like to give my vehicles a quick roll by hand before running them and you'll get a characteristic womp womp womp sound as you roll it if the mesh is binding anywhere.
Yeah the paper method is extremely inconsistent. Once you get this method worked out it's fast and works every time! Thanks for watching and if you enjoy the videos a sub is appreciated
Nice instruction, but do this in a car with grease on the gears, and you hear nothing. The clicking you are listening for is also subjective and involves a person's ability to understand the cadence and feel of the gears. Metal gears will sound and feel different from poly gears. Most people don't have this sort of ineternal calibration. Since we are not dealing with rocket science, this is not that big a deal in most cases. The best way possible is to rely on the manufacturers tolerances and use a motor bracket that is set up for the particular car and different types of gears. What little variation that may exist in most cases is negligible, and with use will correct itself. 👍
The vast majority of spur and pinion gears don't get greased so this isn't really a problem. As far as being able to hear it clicking or not there's not a range of clicking you need to be tuned for either There is movement between the two gears or there isn't. Fortunately these tolerances aren't picky enough to where if you're off by a little bit and make it slightly too loose it's not going to be a problem. As far as relying on the manufacturers set up The vast majority of motor mounts are on sliding brackets which means where it goes is up to you. Some manufacturers are moving to whole style motor mounts in which case this isn't necessary at all because you can't adjust it but for ones that can be adjusted in my experience this is the best way to do it.
That would be nice but even then paper method is susceptible to a lot of subject ability and inherent variability. You can get some very different results depending on how tightly you squeeze together against the paper. Best thing to do is just follow this process and you'll get a perfect mesh every single time. Thanks for watching if you enjoy the videos a sub is appreciated!
If it works for you then it's fine just keep in mind that the looser the mesh the less tooth engagement you have so the inherently weaker the gears will be.
Maybe though different gear tooth pitches, quality of the paper, how hard you squeeze the gears together etc will all come into play. I just don't really see the point in doing something like that when the best method is Also extremely easy, requires no guesswork and works for every single gear setup.
@@DoRC I hear you, but if you use paper and give it a wiggle to make sure there is a tiny bit of wiggle then you are good. Like you said, there are different methods and the paper method has been around for ages and is still going for a reason, plus is free, everyone has paper. You can legitimately do it your way too, the only difference is you dont start with a distance based on the thickness of the paper.
@@Xbot4LifeThe paper method frustrated me because I had both binding, and a mesh that was way too loose depending on how hard I pressed on everything before tightening.
@@JPTulo you just gotta go with what works for you. Luckily for me, the traxxas pin system worked fine last time I changed gearing (after I made that post)
I don't really like paper because it doesn't necessarily give you the most consistent mash. Depending on the gear pitch and how hard you push you can get some pretty different results. I prefer just to get a feel for it by hand.
There's no way to have a jig as you'd need a separate one for each setup. This method is foolproof. If you do what I said you'll get it perfect every time. It's a skill like anything else though. At first itll take a few tries to get it right but keep practicing and you'll get faster and faster at it! Thanks for watching:)
Pretty sure it was the great Dave Chapelle that said "Some people think cucumbers taste better pickled". Been setting gear mesh by feel for over 30 years. If it works, it works.
Definitely. Doing it by feel / by ear are pretty much the same thing. Mostly I just don't think that the paper method is reliable.
@@DoRC The paper trick doesn't work on the Arrma 3S BLX cars. I tried it on my Typhon once and since the gears aren't held securely in place until the cover is back on, when I did put it back on, I knew immediately that it was too tight, so I've just been making sure it feels and sounds right and I've had no problems. The stock plastic spur gear has held up a surprisingly long time even though I always run it on 3S and have the punch on the highest setting.
@kilaueaproductions4210 Yeah it's pretty impossible to use the paper trick on mesh that you can't actually get to when it's set.
Haven't stripped a spur since I saw this video 3 months ago. Thank you!
Nice!
Can’t tell you how thankful I am for your channel, I’ve always liked rc but never upgraded or messed with parts unless they broke, learned something new today!
Awesome glad you enjoyed!
I always run the gears round a few times to find the tightest/closest point between them then make it so I can rock the spur/crown gear back & forth by the smallest fraction, just enough to be able to hear it clicking.!
Pretty much as you've said.! 👍 👍 👍
Yep That's the way to do it!
Perfect for beginner in RC. I used paper method on Slash, when i started with a hobby (6 years ago). Now i adjust it faster only with hearing of clicking noise. But it is possible when you have big gears. When you have 64Dp gears in 1/10 race models, you have to see it from the side. Because, there is a need absolute precision in 0,1mm steps. I remember 29T pinion with 80T Spur for example, fine tuning Mesh. But it is nothing impossible, just patience needed :-)
Yeah the paper method can work but it can also leave your mesh way too loose depending on the paper you use how tight you push them together and the pitch of the gear. Doing it by field/ear is definitely the way to go
Thanks for the explanation! Saved in my favorites.
Awesome thanks for watching! If you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated :-)
@@DoRC I subbed a while ago
Awesome thank you :-)
Thank you for the input on mechanical security.....🏎️💨🏁👍
Thanks for watching! If you enjoy my videos a sub is appreciated :-)
wow I just bought my first RC car and I totally did the gears wrong, thanks to this video, I fixed it
Awesome glad to help!
I thought the paper was a good idea but you brought up an excellent point. I've been changing pinion gears a lot on my TLR typhon and have used this method and it's worked great. I am leaving a little to much room though which would explain the marks I can see on the teeth. Now I know to trust the feel and sound of my gears.
Yeah the paper method can be effective but it can also be very ineffective depending on a bunch of different variables. Glad this video helped :-) Thanks for watching and if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated!
How was this method in comparison for you?
Excellent video man! I agree the paper trick is no good at all. And thank you for mentioning the fact that the mesh needs to be checked all around and some gears are not perfectly round, this is such a common oversight.
Yeah it can work but it also can cause mesh to be too loose. Setting it by ear is the best way :-) thanks for watching!
But if you adjust it for that one tooth wouldn’t it throw all the other ones out of whack? So what would be the point of checking them all when there’s only one adjustment and if they are different you will never get them all right.
Not really. Normally if you get any part of the mesh right you'll be pretty close all the way around. Sometimes you'll get unlucky and not end up meshing at the tightest spot and will need a little bit more adjustment but normally the loosest spot and the tightest spot are not that different from each other.
Nice review my friend ! Thank you ! 💙👍⚙️
Thanks for watching :-)
This is some very helpful information. Thank you very much
You're welcome! Thanks for watching and if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated :-)
Best video on this BY FAR!
That was my goal!
Great video man. Been doing it by feel for years. Actually tried the paper method not long ago and it screwed me all up, went right back to my normal method
Yeah there's so many chances for getting variable results with the paper method that I just don't think it's worthwhile. Thanks for watching and if you enjoy the videos a sub is appreciated:)
Bravo, Very good and useful video.thanks❤
Thanks Glad you enjoyed :-)
Excellent explanation, this is also how I do it (some race guru taught me), but didn't know the reason for nor using paper. 👍
Yeah I've seen a pretty wide range of results when people use paper. Definitely don't recommend it :-)
learned that lesson the hard way last week, thanks for the video
Hopefully it wasn't too much damage!
I remember the first time I didn't read the manual too.
I just tried building my first speed run car for the poor boys rc mf01x challenge and I've never set mesh before and I guess I set it too tight and it ate up my gear. Got replacement hop up gears coming in and hopefully with the aid of this video I'll get it right this time
As long as you follow this process you should be good just make sure you check the mesh in a few different spots once you think you have it right because there's always going to be tighter and looser spots throughout.
Why I love my HPI Baja 5sc, Kraken Vekta, and Primal MT. The gear mesh is preset and you have a ton of gear selections to choose from and never have to set the gear mesh as it's always preset. Take the Baja the total number of teeth of the pinion and spur gear is always 74 teeth so the clutch bell shaft and transmission shaft are preset for perfect gear mesh regardless of the gear ratio as long as the pinion and spur teeth count add up to 74.
Yeah preset mesh can be really nice though I have found that it often is looser or tighter than I would like. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you very much for this great video very helpful my friend I watched this an then went an checked mine an oh gosh how much more I could get a better mesh so yeah thanks again
Awesome glad it was helpful!
Great video . That’s exactly how I do my gear mesh 👍🏽
Definitely the way to go! Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
Always on point information an testing. I have a honorable mention Motor mounts showing the difference between stock an 7075. I believe you upgrade your motor mount should be also. Being able to keep a proper Mesh.
Yeah having a good motor mount can definitely make maintaining proper mesh easier on certain vehicles!
Nice video man. Always informative
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for watching :-)
Nice job brother. Great explanation.
Thanks. I've been doing it this way myself for many years and it's just about foolproof!
I've never liked the paper trick. Your video hits on what I've largely done and have had a lot of success with which is go by sound in that click, click, click. If I hear that, I'm good. After watching this, I think i can go a pinch tighter while still maintaining that wiggle click sound. I'll test it out. The tip for checking the gears in multiple spots because they're not perfect was a good one. Nice video.
Yeah a lot of people don't realize just how little backlash these gears really need to have. Glad you found it worthwhile :-) If you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated!
Uhhhh yea. I have that exact losi ebuggy. The thing is once you find the perfect spot and start to tighten the screws it moves slightly and is no longer perfect. This car specifically is tough because you have 4 screws to lossen/ tighten and it's very difficult to keep it still during all that.
I agree. That specific type of mount is one of the most challenging. I found the best way to do it is to bring all the screws to just a little past touching get it adjusted properly and then slowly snug the screws down in a criss-cross pattern a little bit at a time
Thanks for the tip. Embarrassing I've raced these cars for over 20 yrs and still struggle with that one at times lol
Great video, that´s exactly how it should be done 👌
Agreed :-) Thanks for watching!
Great video, Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it thanks for watching!
Awesome video, really helpful! Thanks for posting :)
Thought it was helpful and thanks for watching!
Great information, thanks
Thanks for watching and if you enjoy the videos a sub is appreciated!
Thank you so much ! Thats gonna help out a ton ! 🍻
You're welcome and thanks for watching :-)
Very helpful 👍
Awesome glad it was beneficial! Thanks for watching and if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated :-)
I used the method described in this video and people told me it was too loose because you need to account for chassis flex. Any comment in regards to chassis flex? Thanks for the great content.
The goal of this method is to get the gears as close together as possible without actually binding so if you do that does not really any way it can be too loose.
Thanks🎉
You're welcome thanks for watching!
I set mesh by feel as well but on plastic gears(arrma granite) the gear isn't 100% round so you will need to find the high side and then set by feel. Edit: you did mention this in last 30 seconds.
Yep. Definitely need to rotate and check. Even steel gears will have loose and tight spots!
That is awesome! Thank you.
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
I used this method on my Traxxas Sledge and it works perfect and drives just great! It sounds super high pitched though and it doesn't sound like my dad's sledge at all. He even said we should look at it before we drive them, any idea what it is?
Variations in mesh will significantly alter the way the gears sound. That's not to say there isn't a problem but it's not inherently indicative of one. As long as you're able to hold one gear still at wiggle the other one and you've checked that in several spots around the rotation of them then you should be fine.
thanks man, i tested it and it didnt strip for the first time ever! I actually ran a full 6s pack through it for the first time ever! Thank you!@@DoRC
@@CeeBeeW19 awesome Glad it's working!
I called Traxxas because I keep breaking my pinion on my Sledge. Today, I broke my pinion and Spur. They referred me to your video on how to mesh it! That’s how great your videos are! Thanks for your videos!!
I broke my pinion and spur. Since I’ll be taking the housing of the differential apart to install new spur, do I need to fill that with grease? If so, what do you recommend and how much?
Also, what spur and pinion brand do you recommend that is stronger. Maybe the Traxxas ones are too weak. And would it fit in the Traxxas gear housing?
Thanks
There are a lot of different brands out there but I had good luck with the GPM spur and tekno pinions are very good. Traxxas puts 20 million weight silicone fluid in the center differential. It's essentially a putty it's so thick. You probably won't have to add any but it's not a terrible idea to get some from Traxxas anyway to have on hand as it's fairly inexpensive.
That's crazy that they recommended my video. I guess it's pretty good :-) thanks for watching!
@@DoRC yes! He emailed me a link to your video! Ok, I’ll look into GPM spur. I’ll get more of the fluid and just top it off.
Thank you!!!
Still waiting on the Traxxas machined spur and pinion. And the 20 million oil you recommended.
Do you have a solution that you recommend to stop the sledge pinion and spur from breaking every time? You still have stock motor mount on yours?
Your answer is at 4:25
:)
Could too tight of a pinion gear cause an esc to cut out at full throttle?
It's possible. The extra friction could lead to overloading the ESC and having it shut down though it would have to be pretty tight to do that.
@@DoRC unfortunately wasn't the problem. I'm at a complete loss. Using a vxl3s combo with a brand new 3rd party 3s battery. New receiver. If you have any thoughts I would love to hear what you may think.
@do629 My first thought would be potentially the battery. What brand size and c rating is it? It's possible the battery can't handle the load and The battery voltage is sagging too much causing the ESC to cut out.
Nice video..setting gear mesh is one of the most confusing tasks for a begginner to learn and get the feel for.
Glad it was helpful!
@DoRC Have you thought about 3D printing a strip of material that is the correct thickness for the gear mesh tooth count?
Unfortunately that's not really possible. The backlash is a lot less than people think it is. For mod 1 gears it's about 0.003" or less than the width of a human hair. You really can't 3D print anything that thin
@@DoRC Sure. Makes sense. Have you tried using plastic shim stock?
Can you do this to the latrax prerunner?
Any gear mesh that has an infinitely adjustable (slotted) system will work using the same method.
I’m trying to mesh my stock pinion and spur on my xrt ultimate. I can’t move the motor closer to mesh it. There are pins that the motor mount sits on that really don’t let me do that
Traxxas uses that pin system to do the mesh for you. It works pretty well for stock gears but if you upgrade to aftermarket gears of any kind the pin system isn't usable anymore. Either way if you want to set your mesh manually you can just take the pins out. I'd also recommend getting the aluminum motor mount screw washers that are available from Traxxas as it helps prevent the screws from digging into the plastic in the slots for the motor mount.
@@DoRC thank you!!!! I appreciate your help very much!!!! You have absolutely no idea!! Understood.
The ultimate came with those aluminum washers you mentioned. Part of the $500 price. Lol!!!
What automatic screwdriver do you use? I’m over hand tightening and unscrewing everything. It takes so long!!!
I would have to agree with your explanations. Some cars are harder to set mesh because when tightening the set screw the mesh can change. In those cases, the paper trick works better imo. I like using 3x5 cards and jam them in tight. But as you said, it doesn't work for all applications.
Yeah it really just depends. The mesh definitely can change
When you get things tight though. The index card thing can work but technically it'll end up making the mesh too loose which will make the gears a bit more susceptible to damage under heavy load. That being said there's definitely more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for watching!
You can also set it while running it
How would you do that?
@@DoRC depends on the car, with the controller set throttle slow listen to mesh. Wheels off
@@rccarsandmusic2641 Yeah I guess you could do that but that's definitely leaving things pretty subjective. Different vehicles are going to sound differently and I feel like that's kind of making it more complicated than it needs to be. The process in the video is pretty simple and if followed is essentially foolproof.
Can you don this on a rock rey via the bottom of chassis?
This process should work on any RC car.
TH-cam RC DR. He is our personal research and development guy,thank you
Thank you for watching!
Will try this next time. Hopefully it cures my hate of setting gear mesh 😅
Awesome let me know how it goes! Thanks for watching :-)
Where can we find metal gears
For what vehicle?
When I did this, the sound coming from the mesh was super loud, almost so loud you couldn't talk over it. I thought that it was a sign it was meshed too tight even thought I did everything you said
Different gears are going to sound differently when you mesh them. That being said if there is wiggle room between the gears and you check it in multiple different places and it's still loud there's a decent chance there's something wrong with one of your gears. You can always loosen the mesh up a little bit to accommodate for it but properly made years in good condition that are properly aligned in the vehicle should not be significantly louder with tighter mesh
Did you make sure the motor mount is correctly positioned? I've had this happen before when tightening down the motor mount it very slightly slipped out of alignment and caused the pinion gear to become slightly angled by 1/1000 of an inch and negatively impacted the mesh with the spur gear. This can also be the result of your pinion gear not being installed correctly and perfectly centered on the motor shaft.
In most cases, when you have the mesh set perfectly then the gears should be silent when your rc is coasting and you slightly let off the throttle removing the force off the pinion and spur gear.
I had the right idea I was putting up a 15 on my big rock 6s I forgot to rotate and then check and it chipped my pinion I guess I have to run it on the 16 Again thank for your east and informative videos was able to run the 16 no prob just need to watch my temps lol
You're welcome! Yeah unfortunately when getting mesh really close like I recommend it's definitely important to verify that tightest spot because you can easily end up with binding if you don't. Sometimes you get lucky as I have forgotten to do it in the past but you can also often hear it if it's a problem. I always like to give my vehicles a quick roll by hand before running them and you'll get a characteristic womp womp womp sound as you roll it if the mesh is binding anywhere.
"Set it by smell".! BWAHAHAHAHAAA 😂 😂 😂
:)
thats exactly the way i do it., i follow raz shifrin and he taught me how to do it.
Yep I've been setting mesh this way for many many years and it's never let me down.
That's the method I use to set gear mesh on my trucks. The paper method doesn't work for me.
Yeah the paper method is extremely inconsistent. Once you get this method worked out it's fast and works every time! Thanks for watching and if you enjoy the videos a sub is appreciated
Can I combine m0.7 and m0.8
No. The gear pitches need to be the same.
Nice instruction, but do this in a car with grease on the gears, and you hear nothing. The clicking you are listening for is also subjective and involves a person's ability to understand the cadence and feel of the gears. Metal gears will sound and feel different from poly gears. Most people don't have this sort of ineternal calibration. Since we are not dealing with rocket science, this is not that big a deal in most cases. The best way possible is to rely on the manufacturers tolerances and use a motor bracket that is set up for the particular car and different types of gears. What little variation that may exist in most cases is negligible, and with use will correct itself. 👍
The vast majority of spur and pinion gears don't get greased so this isn't really a problem. As far as being able to hear it clicking or not there's not a range of clicking you need to be tuned for either There is movement between the two gears or there isn't. Fortunately these tolerances aren't picky enough to where if you're off by a little bit and make it slightly too loose it's not going to be a problem.
As far as relying on the manufacturers set up The vast majority of motor mounts are on sliding brackets which means where it goes is up to you. Some manufacturers are moving to whole style motor mounts in which case this isn't necessary at all because you can't adjust it but for ones that can be adjusted in my experience this is the best way to do it.
To get the perfect mesh remove all tire & set it while running at low speed. Before & after tightening the motor!
That might work but listening to the gears in motion is pretty subjective and will change depending on a lot of factors.
the closest you can get the gears while still having a quiet but audible amount of play between them is my method.
Yep that's pretty much what I describe here.
Gee... It would be great if the gears manufacturer provide use with a paper according to specifications...
That would be nice but even then paper method is susceptible to a lot of subject ability and inherent variability. You can get some very different results depending on how tightly you squeeze together against the paper. Best thing to do is just follow this process and you'll get a perfect mesh every single time. Thanks for watching if you enjoy the videos a sub is appreciated!
I like my mesh like throwing a hotdog down a hallway nice and loose
If it works for you then it's fine just keep in mind that the looser the mesh the less tooth engagement you have so the inherently weaker the gears will be.
For most/all Traxxas/Arrma Just use standard A4 paper, the difference in thickness is negligible.
Maybe though different gear tooth pitches, quality of the paper, how hard you squeeze the gears together etc will all come into play. I just don't really see the point in doing something like that when the best method is Also extremely easy, requires no guesswork and works for every single gear setup.
@@DoRC I hear you, but if you use paper and give it a wiggle to make sure there is a tiny bit of wiggle then you are good.
Like you said, there are different methods and the paper method has been around for ages and is still going for a reason, plus is free, everyone has paper.
You can legitimately do it your way too, the only difference is you dont start with a distance based on the thickness of the paper.
@Xbot4Life for sure. There's definitely more than one way to do it and paper does work!
@@Xbot4LifeThe paper method frustrated me because I had both binding, and a mesh that was way too loose depending on how hard I pressed on everything before tightening.
@@JPTulo you just gotta go with what works for you. Luckily for me, the traxxas pin system worked fine last time I changed gearing (after I made that post)
I have an even better way. Entirely automatic and perfect every time guaranteed.
Self clearancing? :-)
Receipt paper
I don't really like paper because it doesn't necessarily give you the most consistent mash. Depending on the gear pitch and how hard you push you can get some pretty different results. I prefer just to get a feel for it by hand.
Another overpriced accessory by Traxxas part of their tax on dummies collection along with the xmaxx ultimate.
Which accessory?
What kind of video is this? The problem is people can’t get it right that way. Thought you’d have like some jig or something. 👎
There's no way to have a jig as you'd need a separate one for each setup. This method is foolproof. If you do what I said you'll get it perfect every time. It's a skill like anything else though. At first itll take a few tries to get it right but keep practicing and you'll get faster and faster at it! Thanks for watching:)