Hmmmm, odd question, that tube is metal, and therefore just shorting the probes, so why not just touch the cell contacts with the jaws together.!? These meters use Twin wires because the extra wire is a sense wire, to remove the resistance of the probe cables.! What am I missing.?
By doing this the resistance of the probe cables is still not being measured, but the resistance of the tube and extra contact point will be measured. From the video it seems to be low enough, but I would prefer to use a plastic or foam insulator between the probe contacts to keep them apart and use them directly.
Yeah, for some reason that doesn't work. If you just touch the closed probes onto the ends of a cell, the resistance reading is too high and very unstable.
There is a YT video where this Fnirsi HRM-10 gets tested comparing to a Fluke BT521 (approx 40 UKP vs 4000 UKP). Using the standard out of the box setup the Fnirsi tester agreed to within 0.05 volt and 0.5 milliohm of the Fluke, which is very impressive for the price.
A simple solution is to use 2 small magnets, eg. 5x5x3mm, with insulation between them, attached to a battery terminal. Then clip the Kelvin clips across the magnets. The bigger the magnets the greater the clamping force to the battery terminal, minimising resistance (or more importantly variation in contact resistance) during the measurements. Obviously the limit is how wide the Kelvin clips will open and the size of the battery terminal. This arrangement allows a hands-off measurement eliminating variations from varying hand pressure.
A Chinese meter manufacturer. They have released a product that measures battery internal resistance quite standardly and possibly other types of electronic components on the circuit directly. And I also had some good experiences with this watch
I have seen budget oscilloscopes from the same company. They are okay for general use, but found them quite inaccurate with measurements, sometimes 10 percent or more out on the measurements. It looks like this device may be slightly more accurate than the oscilloscopes, but maybe still a little out.
You can calibrate it to about plus/minus 2 in the last digit. I have a 0-10 volt precision reference to recalibrate it and the measurements are spot on. That being said, I did notice the meter is not seeing voltage below about 0.058 volts and you start losing precision as the voltage goes less than a volt, so it’s not a substitute for a quality precision meter.
one solution that comes to mind is putting an insulator between the clamps that keep them separated and then taking the ends and touching them to the end of the battery.
ماهو اسم الجهاز الأخر ورقم الموديل . ملاحظة : يجب على مصنعين البطاريات أن يكون النحاس الصافي المغلفن هو ونهاية التوصيلات حتى ةان كان على شكل برغي ويفضل صولية بفتحة للربط السهل مع بطاريه أخرى
An 18650 battery holder might be easiest - you could mount it on a wooden board and connect the probes (or even buy a four-pin connector and wire it directly to the battery holder) so measuring a bunch of cells is as easy as putting them in and out of the battery holder.
Have a look at the review of this meter by TH-camr DiodeGoneWild, today. He shows that it can measure plain milliohms, and also capacitor ESR apparently fairly accurately....
It wasn't exactly the same, there was about 10 millivolts of difference, which is relevant when it's supposed to measure to an accuracy of 0.1 millivolts. It would be like using meters that measure to the nearest volt, and one reads 3 volts but the other reads 103 volts. Quite a big difference given the precision it's supposed to have.
Yes they do, come as a set includes spring loaded twin pointed probes and a very well made cradle for Li-ion which is adjustable for size of battery and has spring loaded co-axial contacts, its an excellent addition worth £10.00 on its own.
Very nice, i dont think you can't make super accurate messurements, simply the fact how you messure (steel bolt +100%) i think its not the actual value shown on screen, more the fact if you messure the same way to all cells, so can compare them, to a degree. okay you should avoid steel bolts and nickel plated steel strips. i think i get one
Why did you insert those copper tubes? No need. Simply close the probes, the short length of the tips will have almost no effect. You still inserted another piece of metal, which may have even more effect on the readings, one more contact point. "Solving" one problem by creating another :)
This unit needs more work. It would be far more useful as a battery tester if it included an editable database (text file) of generic battery types. Claimed accuracy is +/- 0.5% for voltage and resistance.
how about the devices' precision?? so many digits, and you don't even know the voltage, it read 3.30 and then 3.32 V on 2 tries of the same; on another 2 tries you got near 3.40 and near 3.38 volts; so, the 2 significant digits on the reight have NO meaning at all ? i doubted that 5 digit thing as soon as i saw it.
Well, I tested it with a precision 0-10 voltage reference, and out of the box the last two digits were off by about -18. I then calibrated it to the voltage reference and it appears to be accurate now to within plus/minus 2 digits in the last digit! For fun, I entered 1.2345 volts into my reference and the meter spits out 1.2345 consistently, with slight plus/minus variation by a digit every so often. The unit also needs a 60 volt reference to fully calibrate for higher voltages, but I don’t have such a reference, and really don’t need high precision above 10 volts. I’m truly impressed with the precision. One area that may be a problem is that I don’t see it register voltages less than about 0.058 volts and it loses precision in the last 2 digits. Not sure if this is a calibration issue or limitation of the device or maybe a design decision to pin low really voltages to zero for some reason. I may break out some of my precision resistors later and test that.
How would you repair something with a microcontroller in it that has embedded, locked, flash? You can read the chip number and replace it, but without the firmware it still won't function. So having chip numbers on it probably won't help with repairability. Scraping numbers off the chips is only done so they can use factory seconds destined for the rubbish and not get caught by the company that paid to have the chips fabricated, it's not done to hide anything from the buyer.
@@craigtucker777 It probably didn't meet the specifications, or the batch was found to fail early, or had some other problem so the company didn't want it released with their brand name on it, so they told the factory to destroy them. But many Chinese factories just scrape the numbers off and sell them cheap for low-cost products where either they don't care if it breaks, or the problem with the component doesn't matter. The companies making the chips don't like it because it means people aren't buying their proper chips and they're not getting royalties, but it seems to be difficult to stop it from happening.
I've just checked a magnet - it's resistance is about 1.5mohm - quite a bit higher than the copper tube which was about 0.03mohm. Also, soldering to a magnet is problematic - heat damages the magnet.
Hmmmm, odd question, that tube is metal, and therefore just shorting the probes, so why not just touch the cell contacts with the jaws together.!?
These meters use Twin wires because the extra wire is a sense wire, to remove the resistance of the probe cables.!
What am I missing.?
By doing this the resistance of the probe cables is still not being measured, but the resistance of the tube and extra contact point will be measured. From the video it seems to be low enough, but I would prefer to use a plastic or foam insulator between the probe contacts to keep them apart and use them directly.
Yeah, for some reason that doesn't work. If you just touch the closed probes onto the ends of a cell, the resistance reading is too high and very unstable.
@@dino6627 Yes, that is the proper way. With the metal tube you will indeed add 2 times contact resistance and metal tube resistance.
There is a YT video where this Fnirsi HRM-10 gets tested comparing to a Fluke BT521 (approx 40 UKP vs 4000 UKP). Using the standard out of the box setup the Fnirsi tester agreed to within 0.05 volt and 0.5 milliohm of the Fluke, which is very impressive for the price.
A simple solution is to use 2 small magnets, eg. 5x5x3mm, with insulation between them, attached to a battery terminal. Then clip the Kelvin clips across the magnets. The bigger the magnets the greater the clamping force to the battery terminal, minimising resistance (or more importantly variation in contact resistance) during the measurements. Obviously the limit is how wide the Kelvin clips will open and the size of the battery terminal. This arrangement allows a hands-off measurement eliminating variations from varying hand pressure.
Was going to suggest this till I saw your comment.
When are going to do some more projects with microcontrollers' ?
شكرا على الفيديو لقد تمنيت أن ارى ذلك من زمن
A Chinese meter manufacturer. They have released a product that measures battery internal resistance quite standardly and possibly other types of electronic components on the circuit directly. And I also had some good experiences with this watch
I have seen budget oscilloscopes from the same company. They are okay for general use, but found them quite inaccurate with measurements, sometimes 10 percent or more out on the measurements. It looks like this device may be slightly more accurate than the oscilloscopes, but maybe still a little out.
You can calibrate it to about plus/minus 2 in the last digit. I have a 0-10 volt precision reference to recalibrate it and the measurements are spot on. That being said, I did notice the meter is not seeing voltage below about 0.058 volts and you start losing precision as the voltage goes less than a volt, so it’s not a substitute for a quality precision meter.
las especificaciones del producto estan atras en la caja.
one solution that comes to mind is putting an insulator between the clamps that keep them separated and then taking the ends and touching them to the end of the battery.
ماهو اسم الجهاز الأخر ورقم الموديل . ملاحظة : يجب على مصنعين البطاريات أن يكون النحاس الصافي المغلفن هو ونهاية التوصيلات حتى ةان كان على شكل برغي ويفضل صولية بفتحة للربط السهل مع بطاريه أخرى
I haven't read the comments yet I'm thinking the copper tube might as well been left out
How about testing inductors and capacitors in comparision to a Mesr-100 ESR meter?
Or for find shorts on PCB's
An 18650 battery holder might be easiest - you could mount it on a wooden board and connect the probes (or even buy a four-pin connector and wire it directly to the battery holder) so measuring a bunch of cells is as easy as putting them in and out of the battery holder.
Could this serve as a general-purpose milliohm meter? For testing cable resistance and the like.
Have a look at the review of this meter by TH-camr DiodeGoneWild, today. He shows that it can measure plain milliohms, and also capacitor ESR apparently fairly accurately....
The voltage reading 18650 Li-ion was exactly the same on both meters??? why did you say it wasn't?
It wasn't exactly the same, there was about 10 millivolts of difference, which is relevant when it's supposed to measure to an accuracy of 0.1 millivolts. It would be like using meters that measure to the nearest volt, and one reads 3 volts but the other reads 103 volts. Quite a big difference given the precision it's supposed to have.
Do they have alternative probes available ?
Yes they do, come as a set includes spring loaded twin pointed probes and a very well made cradle for Li-ion which is adjustable for size of battery and has spring loaded co-axial contacts, its an excellent addition worth £10.00 on its own.
Very nice, i dont think you can't make super accurate messurements, simply the fact how you messure (steel bolt +100%) i think its not the actual value shown on screen, more the fact if you messure the same way to all cells, so can compare them, to a degree. okay you should avoid steel bolts and nickel plated steel strips.
i think i get one
What was that small scope you used?
It's an Aarontek 30MHz, but there are dozens of small handheld scopes available now.
Struth!
Why did you insert those copper tubes? No need. Simply close the probes, the short length of the tips will have almost no effect. You still inserted another piece of metal, which may have even more effect on the readings, one more contact point. "Solving" one problem by creating another :)
You get much more fluctuation in the readings with the probes closed.
This unit needs more work. It would be far more useful as a battery tester if it included an editable database (text file) of generic battery types. Claimed accuracy is +/- 0.5% for voltage and resistance.
how about the devices' precision?? so many digits, and you don't even know the voltage, it read 3.30 and then 3.32 V on 2 tries of the same;
on another 2 tries you got near 3.40 and near 3.38 volts; so, the 2 significant digits on the reight have NO meaning at all ?
i doubted that 5 digit thing as soon as i saw it.
Well, I tested it with a precision 0-10 voltage reference, and out of the box the last two digits were off by about -18. I then calibrated it to the voltage reference and it appears to be accurate now to within plus/minus 2 digits in the last digit! For fun, I entered 1.2345 volts into my reference and the meter spits out 1.2345 consistently, with slight plus/minus variation by a digit every so often.
The unit also needs a 60 volt reference to fully calibrate for higher voltages, but I don’t have such a reference, and really don’t need high precision above 10 volts. I’m truly impressed with the precision.
One area that may be a problem is that I don’t see it register voltages less than about 0.058 volts and it loses precision in the last 2 digits. Not sure if this is a calibration issue or limitation of the device or maybe a design decision to pin low really voltages to zero for some reason.
I may break out some of my precision resistors later and test that.
I will NEVER buy something with scraped numbers off components, that means I can't repair it witch means I don't own it
How would you repair something with a microcontroller in it that has embedded, locked, flash? You can read the chip number and replace it, but without the firmware it still won't function. So having chip numbers on it probably won't help with repairability. Scraping numbers off the chips is only done so they can use factory seconds destined for the rubbish and not get caught by the company that paid to have the chips fabricated, it's not done to hide anything from the buyer.
@@vink6163 but they erase markings even on opamps, I dont care for their reasons, I'm not bying fnirsi and simmilar e waste anymore.
@@vink6163 TH-cam keep deleting my comments, why scrub numbers on opamp? Just no
@@vink6163 so why from op amp
@@craigtucker777 It probably didn't meet the specifications, or the batch was found to fail early, or had some other problem so the company didn't want it released with their brand name on it, so they told the factory to destroy them. But many Chinese factories just scrape the numbers off and sell them cheap for low-cost products where either they don't care if it breaks, or the problem with the component doesn't matter. The companies making the chips don't like it because it means people aren't buying their proper chips and they're not getting royalties, but it seems to be difficult to stop it from happening.
you could of used a small peice of nickel strip spot welded to the 18650
Would a magnet work? Solder a block to the magnet and the probes grab the block. Attach magnet to the end of the cell.
I've just checked a magnet - it's resistance is about 1.5mohm - quite a bit higher than the copper tube which was about 0.03mohm. Also, soldering to a magnet is problematic - heat damages the magnet.
@@JulianIlett it was worth a try! Thanks, Julian. I would think a battery holder would work
@@andyshap Clipping the Kelvin Clips to an 18650 battery holder seemed like the obvious solution as soon as the 'problem' was raised.
Thanks foe the review. Have you check its accuracy? Planning to buy this for lion batts ang capacitor Internal resistance test job.
I don't get it. So this is a very limited multimeter which only takes two readings, volts and ohms. What the hell use is it.
Not many multimeters can measure down to 0.01 milliohms