FINAL CONCLUSION IS AT 18:55 if you're bored by any part of the video. 1:14 - What resolution? 1080, 2.7k, or 4k? 5:45 - Shutter speed. Why is it supposed to be 1 / 2 times the frame rate? 10:13 - Showing actual settings in Hero5 Session and Hero 7. ISO Limit and Shutter Speed. Protune Flat vs GoPro Color. 13:56 - Paul Nurkkala's advice to lock shutter speed and ISO. Why this is sometimes bad advice. 20:07 - Live stream excerpt talking with Paul Nurkkala about this topic directly.
Just some clarifications on some things. Great video introducing a lot of people to a lot of different camera things. If jbard is okay with it, I'd love to link my couple videos where it really breaks down how to expose things properly on normal cameras as well as on gopros. But.. at the end of the day -- all of this is just personal style and preferences. Auto settings are usually great, to be honest, but if you're looking to rip out the best possible quality out of everything, then there are some extra things that you can do to make it perfect. 4:30 - hero 6 and 5 allow you to shoot 30fps @ 4k superview 5:23 - truly massive files shouldn't stop you from getting the highest bitrate possible. Wait till you shoot video raw or prores haha 7:45 - it looks pretty good because 1 over double your shutter speed is the golden standard for shutter angle in ALL circumstances. This ratio that we're talking about is called "shutter angle" and it is all about a "feeling" more than anything else 9:30 emphasis on "enhanced" the motion blur helps mask them for sure 14:30 did you stop down light with an ND filter? 19:40 a good example of a shot where exposure wouldn't change would be like.. mountain flying. You're not necessarily ducking in and out of trees, and the exposure of your environment is roughly the same for the whole flight
I’ve learned everything I need to know about fpv drones from watching your channel. I can’t describe how much help you have been to me. I wanted to get into fpv for a long time but struggled with the initial investment especially because I already have a dji system that I use to make money. Fpv didn’t seem to offer that monetary incentive so my budget and quality necessity was different. I was on the fence for so long until I found your channel. I’m thinking about the EMax tiny hawk to get familiar with it and then go all in with a dji system. At least to start with. You’re great 👍
Can’t believe I’m commenting on such an old video but great chat about camera settings for FPV. Variable ND filters are a great tool for shooting video on a DSLR or mirrorless camera but good ones that don’t introduce too much vignetting, colour casts etc. can be very expensive. Something cool you might not have seen is some dedicated video cameras have built in ND filters that sit behind the lens in front of the sensor and you engage/change them with a dial on the side of the camera. How cool would it be if GoPro had a couple ND filters built in like that.
Joshua, you have a point about letting the auto exposure doing it's work, especially flying in an out of buildings like you were. But for flying where you aren't going in darker places, the auto exposure is just so distracting. Every time you flip you'll notice the exposure going up and down over and over again. It's a huge pet peeve of mine and something you'd never seen in actual cinematic video! I'd say that you should be locked in (exposed for the sky) any time you aren't going to be flying in and out of heavy cover. I think that's what NURK was saying as well. In the end it all depends on what you're trying to make and what you're flying.
There is trick to lock your GoPro session 5 to an ISO of 100. If you first set the shutter speed to anything other than auto, it opens a new setting, "ISO MODE." You can then choose "lock" rather than "max." It also allows the ISO limit to be set down to 100. After you set 100 and lock it, go back and set shutter to auto. Doing this with an ND8 has produced excellent results for me. I even leave GoPro color turned on. I don't like color grading in post.
Great info that is well presented. I ride a motorbike mostly through rain forest and the Gopro has to deal with a huge dynamic range of deep shadows and bright highlights. I will try - ISO min 100- max 200, 30fps, shutter auto, ND16, supereview, flat, and see what results I get. I think during set up fixing the fps and shutter speed to achieve the 180 rule ie 30/60, then select the correct ND filter for the conditions/highlights to achieve correct exposure for that selected frame rate and shutter speed, then set shutter to auto. At least you know the ND filter selected (8,16, 32) will keep your shutter pretty close to your fps/ss 180 rule under your specific lighting condition. Cheers ;)
For filming a DJ set, I'm wondering if I should put the shutter on auto and lock iso, or lock shutter and set iso range min max. Probably lock iso and set shutter to auto, otherwise every ray of light hitting the lens is gonna make the gopro switch iso noticably. Probably even better to lock both.
I like the point Nurk makes about "wandering exposure". Never thought about it that way, but now that you mention it, ya that auto-changing of exposure is not nice. good point in favor of fixed shutter. thx
16:12 point it at the sky and set exposure ? I don't really agree with that. i just set it to whatever the focus of the video is (trees and ground), pretty happy with the results.
Still testing settings myself. Recently removed the NDfilter again and shoot in protune with 2k/30 with native wb, color flat, shutter auto, iso limit 1600. seems quite good for the current autumn lightning.
BTW if anyone is wondering why we like to use a shutter speed that is double the frame rate ie: 30fps 1/60 or using a faster frame rate say 60fps 1/120 and is sometimes referred to as the shutter angle, it comes from the days of film and the way the cameras and projectors worked. We are trying to emulate the look of cinema.
You want to lock your exposure (even when flying in and out of trees) when the shadows don't have the main subject. Locking exposure will always yield a more 'professional' and cinematic look because it mimics cinema/movies more closely... you rarely see exposure changing in cinema, rather they just cut to another angle when adjusting exposure or they just leave it be until the next cut
I agree that locked exposure is more cinematic but in that situation they completely control the lighting. There is no way when flying FPV to control the lighting, unless you limit yourself to a very short flight in one location. For FPV, locked exposure will usually result in incorrect exposure because we typically fly in very changing lighting conditions.
This is all correct but take it from a 15 years professional in the field: it's more complex than this. So basically this is what everyone should do to enjoy our drone footages without too much pain in the tits: use a interchangeable ND filter (range 4 to 8), lock Max ISO to 400, set white balance to a fixed temperature (your choice really), set aperture to AUTO (dont use a fixed setting for the love of god, you are not Spielberg and you are not filming separated shots!), use GoPro Color (for most of you, otherwise FLAT is way better but you need color correction skills which is more than just applying a downloaded LUT and tuning curves a bit using the spectrogram), record, done! If you otherwise want really filmic look with different shots then you are aiming at a very very different pipeline and you are not gonna enjoy flying because you are gonna focus on the single shots. Apart from these simple guidelines let me also explain that you can color grade and color correct (yes, they are 2 different things) a single video using interpolation keys. So basically you can aim for a very filmic look on a single quad recording changing color values with a graph editor. But we are not here for this are we? We are here because we love flying FPV, so please keep things simple and enjoy your flying sessions even without your gopros on if possible.
Shoot a 7sec flight of high speed, high rates, full throttle in 1080p240fps 1/480 shutter w/nd8-32 at noon (or high exposure) and iso upto 800, sharpness keep low plus hypersmooth. You'll get a near 1 min cool shot in full length 8x slomo smooth color graded 24fps exported clip. Imo. 🤔
On the session, you need to set the ISO mode to locked, not to max. THEN you can get it down to 100 ISO. This is important for 2 reasons: 1. If you put it on max (for example, 400) , then it will change the ISO from 100-400 bbased on the light, so you end up with that auto-exposure problem where the gopro is changing the exposure constantly; and 2. (this is the biggest issue), 100 ISO is MUCH better quality than 400 ISO - if you leave it on max (ie variable) ISO, and you put an ND filter on, the camera might counteract the ND filter by just raising the ISO. This is bad, because all you're effectively doing is ruining the quality of the video. ISO 400 has to amplify the sensor, which causes graininess. You don't want the camera adjusting your ISO for you - set it on locked and adjust it yourself.
@@JoshuaBardwell I much prefer locked shutter, and here's why: Yes, you do end up with the problem of the gopro not adjusting to the exposure, but the flipside is this: The gopro doesn't respond instantly, so with auto shutter, you still get it overexposing things, but not in the same way - if you go from an area of low light into bright light, it will overexpose the high light are for 1-2 seconds. So, what you get is the exposure jumping around, overexposing things for a short period of time, then underexposing other things. It's very difficult to fix that in post because it's jumping all over the place. If you fix the shutter and use an ND filter appropriate to the brightest part of your flying area, you'll correctly expose the brightest parts, and be somewhat underexposed for the lower light stuff. BUT, it's really easy to fix that in post because you don't have to fight the transitions of the gopro exposure. If you go from light to dark a lot in a flight , auto shutter can render video almost unusable because of this.
Mainly watched this hoping there would be something about StickMan's latest tool that changes aspect ratios & can add 'Super View'..... I know you mentioned covering it in one of your vids shortly, but Im wondering if at some stage you might be able to do something with StickMan similar to this with Nurk covering some of the post processing/production stuff he does to his clips & trying to break it down so the rest of us might stand a chance to wrap out heads around it too... Anyhow, thanks again! :)
I didn't really understand this at first. you mean adaptive exposure how the camera adapts to light. well gaining some frames per second sounds a lot like a graphic card
Hello :) I want to buy a GoPro, but I don't know if 6 (maybe too old), 7 very similar to 8 but I heard about jello or 8 free of jello issue 🤔 I find an 170€ used but very new 7...my indecision is caused by jello on the 7
Great insight, appreciate it. One question though. I use a Session 5 and can only set the maximum ISO. Let's say I set the shutter speed at a constant value (like, 1/60), set the max ISO to be high (800 or 1600), and use a ND filter that gives the right exposure for the sky at ISO 100-ish then I go fly. With this setup, wouldn't the ISO go up (within the max set value) when I'm under the canopy to bring the exposure correct since ISO is not 'locked'? Thank you very much in advance for your thought
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you for the info and I should have stated where I was going with the said scenario. For me the advantage of leaving the shutter speed to auto is that when luminescence changes, the exposure changes accordingly so that the shot does not become over or under exposured. What I'm hoping to achieve is to set the shutter speed at a constant value but still have GoPro adjust the exposure to luminescence changes, which is the opposite of locking the exposure constant with both shutter speed and ISO locked. Since GoPro will only have ISO to adjust the exposure level, I'm thinking how well this would work depends on whether GoPro can adjust ISO quickly enough when lighting changes. Will test and see how it comes out. Appreciate the constant nuggets of wisdom
A good tip for anyone that wants to understand all that stuff is to search about astrophotography. Maybe even try to take a picture of the Moon or the Milk Way and so. That's going to make you understand why those pictures taken on the Moon (by the astronauts, of course) doesn't show any stars. It would be impossible even with today's technology.
I'm trying to fit a naked GoPro on my Bebop 2 , using the go pro as the only optical instead of the original camera. Can someone direct me to some content on this?
Hey Josh, would you know the pin out to power the GoPro with usb C from the drones 5v? Red black for 5,0v.. but does not work.. what do we do with green and white com wires. Thanks
It's almost been 3 years, just got my hero 5, but still can't figuring out why the image kinda meh.. Maybe because I always lock the shutter speed. I think it's better leave them auto and adjust them using nd right ?
If you lock the shutter speed, then the exposure is more likely to be incorrect, since then ISO is the only way to adjust exposure, and ISO doesn't have very much range.
I've had ND filters for three weeks now for my new GoPro session 5 and cannot find a 3D mount for my alien to hold the filters.... Not in description.. maybe for a reason.. if anyone knows, by all means please. :)
hi is it still worth investing in a gopro hero (4) session ? compared to a runcam 5 or caddx orca, I found out they still sell new ones here in shanghai ? thanks
Absolutely. But it helps to have a starting point based on what other people are doing. When you see amazing footage and ask, "why doesn't mine look like that", this video is helpful.
Joshua you said to import to 2.7k even when shot in 1080. How does that relate to framerate? I shoot in 1080/60 but I'd like to try exporting to 2.7k but do I keep the 60fps or do I also transform it to 30fps? Thanks for the great overview!
@@WilliamHeimPhotography yeah I got to say the 60 looked better to my eye somehow, too. I'll stick with upressed 2.7k at the recorded 60fps for now but I will try recording in 30fps once I have a cam that can actually record 2.7k. Big thanks to Joshua anyway for the tip to export in 2.7, I'm so much more pleased with the look on TH-cam now.
I actually typically just go auto shutter with ND filter though, because it still generally gives a decent amount of blur at the parts of the video that matter (ground), with the exception of perhaps the brightest parts, which are usually the sky, and who cares if that's optimally blurred since there's no real detail there anyway. It's mainly for ground and near objects that pass by fast and need some "smoothing" so-to-speak to soften the flicker/jitter
this is stupid. patent on superview? you can't patent optics :/ . it's just a different optics setup. probably the name is patented not the simple tech itself.
FINAL CONCLUSION IS AT 18:55 if you're bored by any part of the video.
1:14 - What resolution? 1080, 2.7k, or 4k?
5:45 - Shutter speed. Why is it supposed to be 1 / 2 times the frame rate?
10:13 - Showing actual settings in Hero5 Session and Hero 7. ISO Limit and Shutter Speed. Protune Flat vs GoPro Color.
13:56 - Paul Nurkkala's advice to lock shutter speed and ISO. Why this is sometimes bad advice.
20:07 - Live stream excerpt talking with Paul Nurkkala about this topic directly.
Best is to lock shutterspeed, then let LIMITED auto Iso do the rest. I.e ISO 100 - 400 (or 800) etc.
Just some clarifications on some things. Great video introducing a lot of people to a lot of different camera things. If jbard is okay with it, I'd love to link my couple videos where it really breaks down how to expose things properly on normal cameras as well as on gopros.
But.. at the end of the day -- all of this is just personal style and preferences. Auto settings are usually great, to be honest, but if you're looking to rip out the best possible quality out of everything, then there are some extra things that you can do to make it perfect.
4:30 - hero 6 and 5 allow you to shoot 30fps @ 4k superview
5:23 - truly massive files shouldn't stop you from getting the highest bitrate possible. Wait till you shoot video raw or prores haha
7:45 - it looks pretty good because 1 over double your shutter speed is the golden standard for shutter angle in ALL circumstances. This ratio that we're talking about is called "shutter angle" and it is all about a "feeling" more than anything else
9:30 emphasis on "enhanced" the motion blur helps mask them for sure
14:30 did you stop down light with an ND filter?
19:40 a good example of a shot where exposure wouldn't change would be like.. mountain flying. You're not necessarily ducking in and out of trees, and the exposure of your environment is roughly the same for the whole flight
I’ve learned everything I need to know about fpv drones from watching your channel. I can’t describe how much help you have been to me. I wanted to get into fpv for a long time but struggled with the initial investment especially because I already have a dji system that I use to make money. Fpv didn’t seem to offer that monetary incentive so my budget and quality necessity was different. I was on the fence for so long until I found your channel. I’m thinking about the EMax tiny hawk to get familiar with it and then go all in with a dji system. At least to start with. You’re great 👍
Still super helpful even a year later!
Can’t believe I’m commenting on such an old video but great chat about camera settings for FPV. Variable ND filters are a great tool for shooting video on a DSLR or mirrorless camera but good ones that don’t introduce too much vignetting, colour casts etc. can be very expensive.
Something cool you might not have seen is some dedicated video cameras have built in ND filters that sit behind the lens in front of the sensor and you engage/change them with a dial on the side of the camera. How cool would it be if GoPro had a couple ND filters built in like that.
Joshua, you have a point about letting the auto exposure doing it's work, especially flying in an out of buildings like you were. But for flying where you aren't going in darker places, the auto exposure is just so distracting. Every time you flip you'll notice the exposure going up and down over and over again. It's a huge pet peeve of mine and something you'd never seen in actual cinematic video!
I'd say that you should be locked in (exposed for the sky) any time you aren't going to be flying in and out of heavy cover. I think that's what NURK was saying as well.
In the end it all depends on what you're trying to make and what you're flying.
There is trick to lock your GoPro session 5 to an ISO of 100. If you first set the shutter speed to anything other than auto, it opens a new setting, "ISO MODE." You can then choose "lock" rather than "max." It also allows the ISO limit to be set down to 100. After you set 100 and lock it, go back and set shutter to auto. Doing this with an ND8 has produced excellent results for me. I even leave GoPro color turned on. I don't like color grading in post.
Holy crap if you could use this to set the Session ISO to 100 and still have auto shutter that would be amazing.
Thanks for making the GoPro Great Again.
Great info that is well presented. I ride a motorbike mostly through rain forest and the Gopro has to deal with a huge dynamic range of deep shadows and bright highlights. I will try - ISO min 100- max 200, 30fps, shutter auto, ND16, supereview, flat, and see what results I get.
I think during set up fixing the fps and shutter speed to achieve the 180 rule ie 30/60, then select the correct ND filter for the conditions/highlights to achieve correct exposure for that selected frame rate and shutter speed, then set shutter to auto. At least you know the ND filter selected (8,16, 32) will keep your shutter pretty close to your fps/ss 180 rule under your specific lighting condition.
Cheers ;)
For filming a DJ set, I'm wondering if I should put the shutter on auto and lock iso, or lock shutter and set iso range min max. Probably lock iso and set shutter to auto, otherwise every ray of light hitting the lens is gonna make the gopro switch iso noticably. Probably even better to lock both.
I like the point Nurk makes about "wandering exposure". Never thought about it that way, but now that you mention it, ya that auto-changing of exposure is not nice. good point in favor of fixed shutter. thx
16:12 point it at the sky and set exposure ? I don't really agree with that. i just set it to whatever the focus of the video is (trees and ground), pretty happy with the results.
1:51 superview?
Hey, it’s Nurk’s brother from another mother!
Still testing settings myself. Recently removed the NDfilter again and shoot in protune with 2k/30 with native wb, color flat, shutter auto, iso limit 1600. seems quite good for the current autumn lightning.
Thanks for this video. Just playing with a new ND filter and the GoPro settings... 💡
BTW if anyone is wondering why we like to use a shutter speed that is double the frame rate ie: 30fps 1/60 or using a faster frame rate say 60fps 1/120 and is sometimes referred to as the shutter angle, it comes from the days of film and the way the cameras and projectors worked. We are trying to emulate the look of cinema.
Thanks a lot for all your help !!
1/250 and now you have 27 fingers in your hand. 😶
You want to lock your exposure (even when flying in and out of trees) when the shadows don't have the main subject. Locking exposure will always yield a more 'professional' and cinematic look because it mimics cinema/movies more closely... you rarely see exposure changing in cinema, rather they just cut to another angle when adjusting exposure or they just leave it be until the next cut
I agree that locked exposure is more cinematic but in that situation they completely control the lighting. There is no way when flying FPV to control the lighting, unless you limit yourself to a very short flight in one location.
For FPV, locked exposure will usually result in incorrect exposure because we typically fly in very changing lighting conditions.
This is all correct but take it from a 15 years professional in the field: it's more complex than this.
So basically this is what everyone should do to enjoy our drone footages without too much pain in the tits: use a interchangeable ND filter (range 4 to 8), lock Max ISO to 400, set white balance to a fixed temperature (your choice really), set aperture to AUTO (dont use a fixed setting for the love of god, you are not Spielberg and you are not filming separated shots!), use GoPro Color (for most of you, otherwise FLAT is way better but you need color correction skills which is more than just applying a downloaded LUT and tuning curves a bit using the spectrogram), record, done!
If you otherwise want really filmic look with different shots then you are aiming at a very very different pipeline and you are not gonna enjoy flying because you are gonna focus on the single shots.
Apart from these simple guidelines let me also explain that you can color grade and color correct (yes, they are 2 different things) a single video using interpolation keys. So basically you can aim for a very filmic look on a single quad recording changing color values with a graph editor.
But we are not here for this are we?
We are here because we love flying FPV, so please keep things simple and enjoy your flying sessions even without your gopros on if possible.
Interesting . . . maybe I should give the ND a try . The strobe effect is starting to REALLY bug me .
Shoot a 7sec flight of high speed, high rates, full throttle in 1080p240fps 1/480 shutter w/nd8-32 at noon (or high exposure) and iso upto 800, sharpness keep low plus hypersmooth. You'll get a near 1 min cool shot in full length 8x slomo smooth color graded 24fps exported clip. Imo. 🤔
On the session, you need to set the ISO mode to locked, not to max. THEN you can get it down to 100 ISO. This is important for 2 reasons: 1. If you put it on max (for example, 400) , then it will change the ISO from 100-400 bbased on the light, so you end up with that auto-exposure problem where the gopro is changing the exposure constantly; and 2. (this is the biggest issue), 100 ISO is MUCH better quality than 400 ISO - if you leave it on max (ie variable) ISO, and you put an ND filter on, the camera might counteract the ND filter by just raising the ISO. This is bad, because all you're effectively doing is ruining the quality of the video. ISO 400 has to amplify the sensor, which causes graininess. You don't want the camera adjusting your ISO for you - set it on locked and adjust it yourself.
You can only lock ISO if you also lock shutter, and as you can see from this video that's not always possible.
@@JoshuaBardwell I much prefer locked shutter, and here's why: Yes, you do end up with the problem of the gopro not adjusting to the exposure, but the flipside is this: The gopro doesn't respond instantly, so with auto shutter, you still get it overexposing things, but not in the same way - if you go from an area of low light into bright light, it will overexpose the high light are for 1-2 seconds. So, what you get is the exposure jumping around, overexposing things for a short period of time, then underexposing other things. It's very difficult to fix that in post because it's jumping all over the place. If you fix the shutter and use an ND filter appropriate to the brightest part of your flying area, you'll correctly expose the brightest parts, and be somewhat underexposed for the lower light stuff. BUT, it's really easy to fix that in post because you don't have to fight the transitions of the gopro exposure. If you go from light to dark a lot in a flight , auto shutter can render video almost unusable because of this.
Mainly watched this hoping there would be something about StickMan's latest tool that changes aspect ratios & can add 'Super View'.....
I know you mentioned covering it in one of your vids shortly, but Im wondering if at some stage you might be able to do something with StickMan similar to this with Nurk covering some of the post processing/production stuff he does to his clips & trying to break it down so the rest of us might stand a chance to wrap out heads around it too...
Anyhow, thanks again! :)
Yep, I am working on a video about that now!
How do I avoid that jello effect that happens on the camera?
A feature I'd like to see on our quads is noise cancellation either on the camera or as a feature in video editors.
Volume knob/button
I didn't really understand this at first. you mean adaptive exposure how the camera adapts to light. well gaining some frames per second sounds a lot like a graphic card
Hello :) I want to buy a GoPro, but I don't know if 6 (maybe too old), 7 very similar to 8 but I heard about jello or 8 free of jello issue 🤔 I find an 170€ used but very new 7...my indecision is caused by jello on the 7
Great insight, appreciate it. One question though. I use a Session 5 and can only set the maximum ISO. Let's say I set the shutter speed at a constant value (like, 1/60), set the max ISO to be high (800 or 1600), and use a ND filter that gives the right exposure for the sky at ISO 100-ish then I go fly. With this setup, wouldn't the ISO go up (within the max set value) when I'm under the canopy to bring the exposure correct since ISO is not 'locked'? Thank you very much in advance for your thought
Set the max ISO as low as possible.
Also, on session when you fix the shutter speed you can change ISO from max to locked.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you for the info and I should have stated where I was going with the said scenario. For me the advantage of leaving the shutter speed to auto is that when luminescence changes, the exposure changes accordingly so that the shot does not become over or under exposured. What I'm hoping to achieve is to set the shutter speed at a constant value but still have GoPro adjust the exposure to luminescence changes, which is the opposite of locking the exposure constant with both shutter speed and ISO locked. Since GoPro will only have ISO to adjust the exposure level, I'm thinking how well this would work depends on whether GoPro can adjust ISO quickly enough when lighting changes. Will test and see how it comes out. Appreciate the constant nuggets of wisdom
A good tip for anyone that wants to understand all that stuff is to search about astrophotography. Maybe even try to take a picture of the Moon or the Milk Way and so.
That's going to make you understand why those pictures taken on the Moon (by the astronauts, of course) doesn't show any stars. It would be impossible even with today's technology.
I have soooooo much to learn.... finally got a hero 7 black.... motivation to learn ;)
@@HomeGrownCanadianFPV Do that, dude! Don't let anyone demotivate you! It's more than worth it. Learning is addictive! 😃
It's been a year ...
How about 120fps with shutter 1/240 or 240fps with shutter 1/480 ?
I guess I have to try it myself :)
Hero 7 (black) does only 78Mbit/s @4K. The Silver even less. Better use a Yi 4k+ for 4k which is using up to 135Mbit/s and much better color.
Is that right? I swear I asked after this and got a satisfactory answer, but I must have misremembered the number.
@@JoshuaBardwell
Yeah,
7 Black does 78Mbit/s @4k
7 Silver does 60Mbit/s @4k
Actually the HB7 does 60 Mb/s in 4k @ 30 FPS or 25 FPS with Superview ON. You won't have Superview available if you wanna shoot in 4k @ 60FPS. ;-)
Thank you
I'm trying to fit a naked GoPro on my Bebop 2 , using the go pro as the only optical instead of the original camera. Can someone direct me to some content on this?
Hey Josh, would you know the pin out to power the GoPro with usb C from the drones 5v? Red black for 5,0v.. but does not work.. what do we do with green and white com wires. Thanks
Disregard this message I was plugged i On the buzzer 😑everything is good now :)
How about a second opinion from JohnnyFPV?
Let me know when he gets back to you.
great video ,I up
It's almost been 3 years, just got my hero 5, but still can't figuring out why the image kinda meh..
Maybe because I always lock the shutter speed. I think it's better leave them auto and adjust them using nd right ?
If you lock the shutter speed, then the exposure is more likely to be incorrect, since then ISO is the only way to adjust exposure, and ISO doesn't have very much range.
I've had ND filters for three weeks now for my new GoPro session 5 and cannot find a 3D mount for my alien to hold the filters.... Not in description.. maybe for a reason.. if anyone knows, by all means please. :)
www.brain3d.co/products/nd-filter-session-mounts-tbs-jello-guard-filter?variant=7533995687966
@@KwadSquadFPV Thank You Kwad!! Ordering now.. and thanks Joshua for this video.. helped to hear others advice.
@@hillbillyfpv1 Youre welcome bud!
good info! :)
Great video but what editing software is good paid and free
Try Davinci Resolve (free), Abobe Premiere (paid)
@@ZeroFPV cheers
ShotCut is free and simple to use, although not as powerful as some of the others.
hi is it still worth investing in a gopro hero (4) session ? compared to a runcam 5 or caddx orca, I found out they still sell new ones here in shanghai ? thanks
I still think GoPro is superior.
The best settings are the settings you like best. Same with PIDs and same with rates. Get out there and experiment.
Absolutely. But it helps to have a starting point based on what other people are doing. When you see amazing footage and ask, "why doesn't mine look like that", this video is helpful.
I bought a few Session 4's on Ebay. Does it have super view?
Yes.
Joshua you said to import to 2.7k even when shot in 1080. How does that relate to framerate? I shoot in 1080/60 but I'd like to try exporting to 2.7k but do I keep the 60fps or do I also transform it to 30fps?
Thanks for the great overview!
I think youtube uses the same bitrate for 60 vs 30 fps. If that's true then 30 fps will look better.
@@JoshuaBardwell I will definitely try that out on my next edit. Thank you very much, Mister. ,)
In my experience, it's still better to preserve the 60fps but still upres the export. When you export 60p as 30p it typically looks choppy.
@@WilliamHeimPhotography yeah I got to say the 60 looked better to my eye somehow, too. I'll stick with upressed 2.7k at the recorded 60fps for now but I will try recording in 30fps once I have a cam that can actually record 2.7k.
Big thanks to Joshua anyway for the tip to export in 2.7, I'm so much more pleased with the look on TH-cam now.
Gopro hero 4 session cant use protiune with superview :/
What is for example with Superview on Foxeer Box?
It's linear stretch. Or at least it was when I reviewed it.
@@JoshuaBardwell so i should not use superview on foxeer box?
Sorry... The gopro cam screen its appears so blurred! I admire you... But no this time JB! 🥴😅
I like 1/shutter speed best
I like that for a lot of shooting too. Makes the flight feel like a dream sequence. ;-)
I actually typically just go auto shutter with ND filter though, because it still generally gives a decent amount of blur at the parts of the video that matter (ground), with the exception of perhaps the brightest parts, which are usually the sky, and who cares if that's optimally blurred since there's no real detail there anyway. It's mainly for ground and near objects that pass by fast and need some "smoothing" so-to-speak to soften the flicker/jitter
10:41 with a higher Iso you don't capture more light. The signal you capture will be more amplified.
Firstn't.
To anyone who hasn't dropped any acid (LSD) in they're life 8:15 is probably the best way to explain your first visuals of the trip. 🤩🤪😜
must've been some weak shit
@@acidfpv7243......the start if your trip bra......not the peak you troll! Lol!
Go to bed
omg that guy during your call sounds like Elon Musk!
First
session 5 CPL filter that looks tough. th-cam.com/video/I0VROO_Hy9k/w-d-xo.html
this is stupid. patent on superview? you can't patent optics :/ . it's just a different optics setup. probably the name is patented not the simple tech itself.
The name would be trademarked not patented. The patent is on the method of doing nonlinear stretch in the camera.
2nd lol.
100th comment😂
Always talk to much