That's a good idea with the "ring tool" and the scope. So the module was bad, add in a bad key and I can see how that would confuse you to the point of "which way do I go?" I remember some of those modules had problems back then. I delt with mostly Ford trucks (City Fleet) from 1997 to 2011 and it wasn't until 2005 that I met up with key programming. The Ford IDS was a blessing for key programming and if the particular Supervisor wanted to limit who had key access to the vehicle we could "erase" all keys and program only the ones that the Supervisor wanted, up to 9 keys. Usually it was only two for the Supervisor and one or two for our shop. Good fix and thank you for this video!
Well Jake this video was different . I personally like the days when we had a door key and an ignition key. They never let me down Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice job..i would question the lenght of the the different keys.wrapping the key in aluminium to only see the atenna signal only...i would have love to see that on the scope! And lastly i belive that holding both keys closly in the proximity of the antena just kills the signal ...i am no expert .lovly video all the best.
Great video! Usually, I have no problem with Illco because they use OEM chips, but I try to use Strattec on GM and Ford because they make it for the OEM. I like using the Xhorse Key tool max for standard key diagnostics over the Diagnostic box. I find the antenna detector is simpler to use. It just gives you the ID it is looking for, and it can also read the key like the Autel XP400. Thanks for sharing!
We have the new Xhorse remote tester which works well. Never had an issue either with ILCO. As an automotive locksmith been using Ilco for over 40 years but like you stated our first choice is OEM or OEM refurbs. Ilco is our next choice if OEM is not available. He just had a bad one. We don't use the cheap aftermarket kaka that UHS and others sell. On these GM's we never use a regular blade we always program the flip key. We had one customer that destroyed 2 flip keys though. First one we covered second one nope. Wife was destroying the remote using her fingernails to press the buttons. She also broke the joints on both. Never had a customer do that. We get calls with broken joints that need to be reshelled but never like this lady that broke ours. This is the only time we offered to program a blade key with no buttons. Husband said that's basically what their second flip key is doing. We also don't use the quick programming. We always use a programmer. People are paying us and usually over our shoulder as we only do road service calls so they want to feel like they are getting their moneys worth. Kind of funny I was watching another guys channel from NJ and the voice was exactly like yours.
Very interesting case, Jake! You started with two intermittent faults (one key and the theft module) that went bad after a while. Another cautionary tale for aftermarket parts. Good idea to use the old antenna as a sensor for future cases! Seems using the Pico can be more helpful than the tester, as viewing the waveforms can be a big help. Good job!
That was some weird problem for sure. I always advise to use an oem key as the first learned key regardless of car manufacturer, and then use a good aftermarket key as spare key and i never had an issue with it, but you had more problems than just a bad key transponder that kept trowing you of track. 👍👍👍👍👍. Really great video.
I used the cheapest keys from 3bay for my 2002 Acura MDX and 2010 dodge Nitro. I had to pull codes for my Acura, and my xtool D8 did it just fine. Going through the program steps, it would not program multiple keys for some reason-- it just kept failing. So I went back in and chose to only program one key and it worked (pulled the code from the ECM also)-- and I had to go back in a second time for the next key; so it took a little longer, but it did work and has been fine for a few years now on both vehicles. Which I'm happy for-- because the dealer told me it's nearly 500 each for them to make me a key? WTF??
Wow I had a similar issue on a Pontiac. It came from buy here pay here lot, and they had a Ilco key made for it. Then it wouldn't start. They replaced the theft deterrent module and it started 30 times and then wouldn't start till I programmed the theft deterrent module with SPS. Then after programmed theft deterrent module, I wouldn't see key or read it to try to program it. I then when and had one of my cheap knock off amazon keys cut and it programmed and worked just fine.
Nice work man. I jock up the TDM module failure as it got corrupted/confused by the repeated good/bad key reads. Although they are a somewhat decent failure rate on that era GM. Anyway nice work! Also that IMMO halo signal should be 125-140khrtz signal. Really easy to check with PICO.
Very nice tips. I think , maybe, 99% of the locksmiths uses generic key to program the cars, due prices in order of maximize profits. First time I see a generic key fail like this.
That antenna module thing is just a “dumb” module. It uses Lin bus, power, ground, and ignition inputs to operate. When you turn the key on it reads the transponder and the bcm authenticates the id and if it’s correct the vehicle will start. Those b119 keys are pretty trouble free with aftermarket transponders in my experience. The smiths in my area 99% of the time just on board new keys. I would’ve wanted to try the 12 minute wait and reprogram the existing keys to see if it would fix the issue. Honestly these keys are so cheap it’s usually easier to just put a key in it and call it a day.
This car has thrown me threw loops I found an old dealership gps tracking system an thought that maybe that was the problem an spent an hour cutting it out an fixing everything back but that theft light stayed on an I was bombed once that left light is gone I’ll be a happy man
interesting. since those are completely inductive being fed a frequency sometime try holding your new tool lol away at different distances to check the rf field strength. no different that wireless cell phone charging. i suspect thats what went wrong with the module is its output to the ring got so weak over time it didnt have enough power to cast a large enough rf field even though it was still working at the wires. or that new tool (ring) is internally shorted killing the field. the chip in that one key is comprimised no doubt.
I have a 2015 Kia Optima with original flip out key. Wanted a 2nd flip out key. Locksmith tried 2 aftermarket flip out keys. Neither would program. Bought Kia OEM flip out and it programmed right away.
I was hoping you’d tear that Ilco non-working key apart. Was wondering if they have an internal battery like the OEM full size fobs?? Also, wondering if you had used SPS earlier to program if the part would have died. Not questioning at all what you showed us, just always thinking failure analysis 😂
So do you got to reprogram the immobilizer module or can you just swap in a new one that’s what I’ve been trying to find out an I can’t get an answer an also I have got a new oem key fob on the way with a new immobilizer module I’m gonna get the new key cut the fob I have is new also but it’s a cheapo junk key an started it for awhile but now won’t do anything but my next question is can I reprogram the new key once it has been cut or do I gotta get a lock smith to do it I was told by another lock smith to wait something like 10 or 11 minutes an see if the old key reprograms I guess if that’s what he was meaning but my theft light never went away an I have that same code so I’m thinking I have the same problem can you please help me out
@autodiagprogramming Great videos, really like the content. This is the first time I've seen a video on this topic. Please forgive my ignorance, but my understanding was voltage didn't matter. 12V is 12V whether AC or DC. Given that the vehicle runs on a 12V system, how does the antenna ring signal generate 16-20V? They wouldn't use a step up winding just to increase voltage for that would they?
wow what an ass ache . dam after market keys never know quite what your going to get . how odd the immo box packed up . that’s why me and you don’t have so much hair left jobs like that make you want to pull it out 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍
Mind blowing! Just replaced a starter in a BMW X3. (Old starter would engage but not spin) Two days later it fails to start. Single click from the starter. DEALERSHIP say TRQ starter fried the "fob control module"???? Sounds to me like BS. What do you think?
That's a good idea with the "ring tool" and the scope. So the module was bad, add in a bad key and I can see how that would confuse you to the point of "which way do I go?"
I remember some of those modules had problems back then. I delt with mostly Ford trucks (City Fleet) from 1997 to 2011 and it wasn't until 2005 that I met up with key programming. The Ford IDS was a blessing for key programming and if the particular Supervisor wanted to limit who had key access to the vehicle we could "erase" all keys and program only the ones that the Supervisor wanted, up to 9 keys. Usually it was only two for the Supervisor and one or two for our shop.
Good fix and thank you for this video!
One of my favorite diagnostic channels on YT. Great, logical diagnostic process in an easy to follow format. Thanks for the great content.
Yup 👍🏼 true … I’m pressing play now !! 👊🏼
Well Jake this video was different . I personally like the days when we had a door key and an ignition key. They never let me down Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice job..i would question the lenght of the the different keys.wrapping the key in aluminium to only see the atenna signal only...i would have love to see that on the scope! And lastly i belive that holding both keys closly in the proximity of the antena just kills the signal ...i am no expert .lovly video all the best.
Great video! Usually, I have no problem with Illco because they use OEM chips, but I try to use Strattec on GM and Ford because they make it for the OEM. I like using the Xhorse Key tool max for standard key diagnostics over the Diagnostic box. I find the antenna detector is simpler to use. It just gives you the ID it is looking for, and it can also read the key like the Autel XP400. Thanks for sharing!
We have the new Xhorse remote tester which works well. Never had an issue either with ILCO. As an automotive locksmith been using Ilco for over 40 years but like you stated our first choice is OEM or OEM refurbs. Ilco is our next choice if OEM is not available. He just had a bad one. We don't use the cheap aftermarket kaka that UHS and others sell. On these GM's we never use a regular blade we always program the flip key. We had one customer that destroyed 2 flip keys though. First one we covered second one nope. Wife was destroying the remote using her fingernails to press the buttons. She also broke the joints on both. Never had a customer do that. We get calls with broken joints that need to be reshelled but never like this lady that broke ours. This is the only time we offered to program a blade key with no buttons. Husband said that's basically what their second flip key is doing. We also don't use the quick programming. We always use a programmer. People are paying us and usually over our shoulder as we only do road service calls so they want to feel like they are getting their moneys worth.
Kind of funny I was watching another guys channel from NJ and the voice was exactly like yours.
Very interesting case, Jake! You started with two intermittent faults (one key and the theft module) that went bad after a while. Another cautionary tale for aftermarket parts.
Good idea to use the old antenna as a sensor for future cases! Seems using the Pico can be more helpful than the tester, as viewing the waveforms can be a big help. Good job!
Interesting case. Thanks for sharing ur diagnostic process
That was some weird problem for sure.
I always advise to use an oem key as the first learned key regardless of car manufacturer, and then use a good aftermarket key as spare key and i never had an issue with it, but you had more problems than just a bad key transponder that kept trowing you of track. 👍👍👍👍👍. Really great video.
I used the cheapest keys from 3bay for my 2002 Acura MDX and 2010 dodge Nitro. I had to pull codes for my Acura, and my xtool D8 did it just fine. Going through the program steps, it would not program multiple keys for some reason-- it just kept failing. So I went back in and chose to only program one key and it worked (pulled the code from the ECM also)-- and I had to go back in a second time for the next key; so it took a little longer, but it did work and has been fine for a few years now on both vehicles. Which I'm happy for-- because the dealer told me it's nearly 500 each for them to make me a key? WTF??
Thank you sir for your time
Wow I had a similar issue on a Pontiac. It came from buy here pay here lot, and they had a Ilco key made for it. Then it wouldn't start. They replaced the theft deterrent module and it started 30 times and then wouldn't start till I programmed the theft deterrent module with SPS. Then after programmed theft deterrent module, I wouldn't see key or read it to try to program it. I then when and had one of my cheap knock off amazon keys cut and it programmed and worked just fine.
Nice work man. I jock up the TDM module failure as it got corrupted/confused by the repeated good/bad key reads. Although they are a somewhat decent failure rate on that era GM. Anyway nice work! Also that IMMO halo signal should be 125-140khrtz signal. Really easy to check with PICO.
Anti theft issues have always been the hardest problems for me
Very nice tips. I think , maybe, 99% of the locksmiths uses generic key to program the cars, due prices in order of maximize profits. First time I see a generic key fail like this.
Great detailed 👌 information 👌 👍🏿..cheers
That antenna module thing is just a “dumb” module. It uses Lin bus, power, ground, and ignition inputs to operate. When you turn the key on it reads the transponder and the bcm authenticates the id and if it’s correct the vehicle will start. Those b119 keys are pretty trouble free with aftermarket transponders in my experience. The smiths in my area 99% of the time just on board new keys. I would’ve wanted to try the 12 minute wait and reprogram the existing keys to see if it would fix the issue. Honestly these keys are so cheap it’s usually easier to just put a key in it and call it a day.
I just ran into this same problem on a 15 silverado
Awesome
Grasias
This car has thrown me threw loops I found an old dealership gps tracking system an thought that maybe that was the problem an spent an hour cutting it out an fixing everything back but that theft light stayed on an I was bombed once that left light is gone I’ll be a happy man
interesting. since those are completely inductive being fed a frequency sometime try holding your new tool lol away at different distances to check the rf field strength. no different that wireless cell phone charging. i suspect thats what went wrong with the module is its output to the ring got so weak over time it didnt have enough power to cast a large enough rf field even though it was still working at the wires. or that new tool (ring) is internally shorted killing the field. the chip in that one key is comprimised no doubt.
I have a 2015 Kia Optima with original flip out key. Wanted a 2nd flip out key. Locksmith tried 2 aftermarket flip out keys. Neither would program. Bought Kia OEM flip out and it programmed right away.
Aftermarket is junk. Some will program and last maybe 3 months. In order for me to warranty keys and fobs we mainly use OEM or OEM refurbs.
Great video
Great job 👍
I was hoping you’d tear that Ilco non-working key apart. Was wondering if they have an internal battery like the OEM full size fobs?? Also, wondering if you had used SPS earlier to program if the part would have died. Not questioning at all what you showed us, just always thinking failure analysis 😂
8:27 Sound between keys is not same. That tells something... like missing sequence in communication.
Interesting good job.
So do you got to reprogram the immobilizer module or can you just swap in a new one that’s what I’ve been trying to find out an I can’t get an answer an also I have got a new oem key fob on the way with a new immobilizer module I’m gonna get the new key cut the fob I have is new also but it’s a cheapo junk key an started it for awhile but now won’t do anything but my next question is can I reprogram the new key once it has been cut or do I gotta get a lock smith to do it I was told by another lock smith to wait something like 10 or 11 minutes an see if the old key reprograms I guess if that’s what he was meaning but my theft light never went away an I have that same code so I’m thinking I have the same problem can you please help me out
Do immo box needs programming with SPS or autel can do it? 🍺
Good video learned something new today.thanks Jake
Is there a “no crank- does start”?
Sounds like R2D2!! 😂
did you find the snap on zeus clip on phad with keith defasio
@@autodiagyt it was a bit back wonder if snap on have updated software to correct if not. not worth using unless you keep eye on live data
This is probably a dumb question, but how does the ring antenna signal generate 16V+?
@autodiagprogramming Great videos, really like the content. This is the first time I've seen a video on this topic. Please forgive my ignorance, but my understanding was voltage didn't matter. 12V is 12V whether AC or DC. Given that the vehicle runs on a 12V system, how does the antenna ring signal generate 16-20V? They wouldn't use a step up winding just to increase voltage for that would they?
@@autodiagyt I appreciate the response and really enjoy the videos. I am always learning new things! Great stuff!
You sure those weren't Dorman keys?
Not first but I always show up 🤠
wow what an ass ache . dam after market keys never know quite what your going to get . how odd the immo box packed up . that’s why me and you don’t have so much hair left jobs like that make you want to pull it out 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍
Wrong chip It’s an id46. Should be an id46 circle plus chip for gm. A regular 46 chip will intermittently start vehicle
Awesome video thanks
Mind blowing!
Just replaced a starter in a BMW X3. (Old starter would engage but not spin)
Two days later it fails to start. Single click from the starter.
DEALERSHIP say TRQ starter fried the "fob control module"???? Sounds to me like BS. What do you think?
8:27 Sound between keys is not same. That tells something... like missing sequence in communication.