These are fantastic cams, they are far far more versatile than BD's, they fit in offset cracks, small pockets, can be placed safely with just a couple of lobes for aid and dicey placements... , the aluminum lobes are sticky and solid...HOWEVER, I have broke a totem green on a fall as the cam slipped down slightly in the fall to an area where the cam was expanded until one of the lobes was open fully. This lobes cables snapped on the fall - it still held, but it was unable to be replaced and Totem had to destroy it instead of replacing it. A BD cam wont do this as they have twin axles; these twin axles enable BD cams to hold a fall even if its used like a stopper. I am now adding more BD's as the second set for more options. Totems are superb cams, just be aware there are some small limitations on placement, and that those limitations are not he same as standard BD's!
Hey Mikel, I'd love to see the same tests made with shock loading (clear drop) vs semi-static pull when it comes to the force application. Rarely when I am climbing do I 'slowly' apply 9kn of force, but I might reach that level when I suddenly take a large whipper...
Does it make a difference from a physics point of view if a force is applied in a short pulse or gradually? I imagine interesting things could happen if the pulse is extremely short, because then the force doesn’t have time to propagate through the material.
In a climbing fall the load is never applied immediately because your rope and hopefully a soft catch will disperse the energy of a fall. You are unlikely to ever create 9kn in a fall, unless something has gone wrong. Climb safe.
These are fantastic cams, they are far far more versatile than BD's, they fit in offset cracks, small pockets, can be placed safely with just a couple of lobes for aid and dicey placements... , the aluminum lobes are sticky and solid...HOWEVER, I have broke a totem green on a fall as the cam slipped down slightly in the fall to an area where the cam was expanded until one of the lobes was open fully. This lobes cables snapped on the fall - it still held, but it was unable to be replaced and Totem had to destroy it instead of replacing it. A BD cam wont do this as they have twin axles; these twin axles enable BD cams to hold a fall even if its used like a stopper. I am now adding more BD's as the second set for more options. Totems are superb cams, just be aware there are some small limitations on placement, and that those limitations are not he same as standard BD's!
Hey Mikel, I'd love to see the same tests made with shock loading (clear drop) vs semi-static pull when it comes to the force application. Rarely when I am climbing do I 'slowly' apply 9kn of force, but I might reach that level when I suddenly take a large whipper...
Does it make a difference from a physics point of view if a force is applied in a short pulse or gradually? I imagine interesting things could happen if the pulse is extremely short, because then the force doesn’t have time to propagate through the material.
Big whippers actually create smaller impact forces than shorter falls with higher fall factors.
In a climbing fall the load is never applied immediately because your rope and hopefully a soft catch will disperse the energy of a fall. You are unlikely to ever create 9kn in a fall, unless something has gone wrong. Climb safe.