1994-1997 Honda Accord Door Lock Actuator Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how to replace a bad lock actuator on 1994-1997 Accords.
In many cases you can repair your existing actuator however you need to remove it to repair it. Check out my lock actuator repair video for details.
Door Lock Actuator Repair Video:
• 1994-1997 Honda Accord...
You have a few options for re adhering the vapor barrier you can use a few dabs of gel type super glue, the Honda specified adhesive (part number below), or butyl tape.
Honda Vapor Barrier Adhesive: 08712-0003
"Gearhead" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons...
Due to factors beyond the control of Bushougoma, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bushougoma assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bushougoma recommends safe practices when working with the tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma.
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A great talent in display. Very easy instructions to follow. Thanks for your painstaking step by step instructions. Great job!
My eternal gratitude from Spain. My 1996 Honda Accord EX locks the driver's door again without that disgusting noise. I bought a new actuator, but I opened the old one and had the problem you describes in your door lock actuator repair video (a broken rubber). Thank you!
Subscribed! Excellent tutorial, video quality, and side tips. This is now my go to Accord repair channel. Kudos for your good work.
Great video. Best instructional I have ever seen. And I know that buzzing sound. My 92 Accord had been making it about a week, but I don't have time to work on it now, so I took out the 30A fuse. No power locks for now. I do know that my actuator is held on by 3 small screws that are hard to reach unless the latch is removed from the door.
Very well presented! Great DIY video!
Just got a accord not to long ago,and I know these videos are old but i love your videos man great job they are a lifesaver.
Very helpful. I have the same issue with my accord 96 model. Now I can go down to the garage and do all this! Thanks man!
Great video. I received a part that actually locked the door when it was supposed to unlock and the cable is 2-3 inches shorter than oem part.. I'm guessing the seller sent me wrong part. But, I removed the window channel piece and it is very difficult to return to place. I have window all the way up and I can't seem to get it back in place. Any suggestions without having to remove window and or regulator?
Thank you for the video - it was perfect - my repair went great!
Muy bueno very profesional,thank you,I lern.
your videos are very detailed. Highly appreciated.
Good video
Nice work. I had to do this and the repair (your repair video) also. For same reasons. Just wish I had seen your videos first. Would have made it a lot easier for me. Thanks. BTW, I have the same color schemes on my '97 SE. 286k and still going but now need the power steering rack replaced. Saw those videos of yours recently also, but may or may not do it myself. I should be able to because of your outstanding instruction!
Certain parts would benefit with speed frame but thanks for the useful video! I just bought the car, but it seems to need a lot more effort to work on than other cars I've owned.
Awesome video! Professional grade.
You’re a life saver
Thank you for your message. What I did first was call A1auto.com and told them the problem and they said to splice the wires and reverse the polarity. They gave me a full refund without me having the send their actuator back to them. I cut the wires and used the original Honda connector and wires, since the wire and connector from A1auto.com was too short anyway for my 94 Honda Accord LX Coupe, 2 door. So I spliced the wires from the A1auto.com actuator without having to remove the actuator, used the longer wire and connector from my old Honda actuator so I would have more length of wire intact to the grey connector that attaches to the middle of the door, reversed the wires to change the polarity, used electrical tape after twisting the wires together and tested the lock buttons and everything worked fine. I sure did not want to have to take the replacement new actuator out and replace that again. I used liquid nail silicone glue to attach the vapor barrier. It works just like new. The reversing of the 2 wires did the trick. And I did the slice(wire reversal) where the actuator wires comes out from the upper door hole. ( This was a hard to reach job to get to the actuator especially getting the hole on the actuator to fit over the plastic pin so the actuator would work and then getting the 3 screws on the actuator to secure it in position was challenging.)But I succeeded. Thank you for your very well done instructional video. Everyone should know that the wire from the actuator to the first connector (if it is not a Honda part) is too short, which makes snapping the orange and clear snap-in pins that go into the door almost impossible. So before I spliced and reversed the wires from the after market actuator to the old Honda wires and grey connector I had to stretch and lengthen the Honda wires in order to make the wires reach the grey connector. I do not know the cost difference of the Honda actuator to the after market one but since it is a challenging job, I hope people read my experience before installing the after market actuator. It is working perfectly now with the jimmy-rigging that I had to do. At least I got a refund for the after market actuator.
Hey I appreciate your video but I can't figure out my door actuators I bought on eBay I give up on doing it I just want the door locks to work with the key again how on Earth does this clip go back around the door lock thing
Thanks I needed to fix the actuator on the driver side the directios were pretty clear and verry helpful! I now have an issue though, that 1 bolt that was removed to move the window rail out of the way well i moved it too far and am now unsure how to put it back in. Do you have a video or any tips for how to get that back in?
The top of the rail slides into a track at the top of the door. The bolt hole won't line up properly unless the rail is in the track.
Does the same actuator for a driver side the same for a 2dr/4dr....honda dealer says no but ive looked and looked and they look the same. Im needing to change driver side on a 2dr.
Hi can you make an tutorial on how to put an sunroof back on track on an 1994-1997 Honda Accord
Thank you!!
my actuator makes noise both ways, unlock and lock, I saw your video on actuator repair, am I better off buying a new one or trying to repair?
GREAT VIDEO!!!...
Hi! It was a very informative repair procedure however i made it thru. After I close everything up test it. The passenger side actuator is what I’ve replace but for whatever mistake I made.it locks the on the opposite side. Driver side is lock, passenger side unlock 🤪. Do you have any suggestion what I did wrong. Appreciate your help.
The actuator you bought has the two wires swapped. This is very common on cheap aftermarket actuators.
Disconnect the connector on the actuator you replaced and swap the terminals around in the connector on the actuator side.
10:41 would’ve saved me all kinds of bullish”t!! Plus, If I clicked on this video instead of the one I clicked on before I attempted to replace my actuator, I would still have a locking, functioning door handle 😢
Have you had any luck using an aftermarket actuator? If so, please provide brand / pn. Not many reviews and hate to see my son spend $110 each for oem.
Hey! My rod popped out completely and I can not figure out where in goes on the inside. Can anyone help?
My driver's side lock switch doesn't lock the whole care, only the passenger side locks it the car. any help?
Professional
You should have mentioned what size speaker fits in the door panel. This seems like an ideal time to replace or upgrade it.
The clip attaching the rod and the handle?
Where could one get/order a new/used one? I accidentally broke mine last week when i was removing my door panel.
VicDaShadow the parts are still available from Honda - what color clip did you break? Each door handle clip is color coded
great video
hi. we replaced the door lock actuators on driver front, passenger front, and passenger rear. we followed your instructions and all was well. however when we got done, the right front door lock will lock when I press unlock, and unlock when I press lock. what did I do?
The actuator is just a motor to lock battery positive is applied to one wire and ground to the other this causes the motor to rotate in one direction to unlock the connections are reversed and the motor rotates in the other direction.
It sounds like the manufacturer goofed up and reversed the wires inside the connector.
Remove the actuator connector, swap the two female terminals around inside the plastic connector, and the motor will go in the right direction.
Removing the terminals usually requires a small flat head screwdriver common designs require you to either depress a spring piece on the terminal or pry up on a plastic retainer inside the connector while gently pulling on the wire. Then reinsert the terminals in the opposite location they will click when fully inserted.
Bushougoma many thanks. since I had three doors to fix, I went with aftermarket actuators. the front driver one had electrical wires that were approximately 1.5 inches shorter than the OEM. We had to make sure we routed it correctly to avoid the window. I appreciate your quick, professional, and accurate response. It took us all day to do three doors,like 9:30-4:30. This is a lesson in OEM parts, versus aftermarket. But, I just could not afford three OEM. The interesting thing was, we took one of the old ones apart, and the magnets were in place, and teeth good, but it was still making the noise before repair. After the repair, all doors were quiet, and all was well except the one with the cross wires. We will attempt the repair on the actuator, or just get OEM for the dealer. By doing this ourselves, we saved 300 in labor. have a great day! thanks for the 97 Accord LX videos, they help. ttyl
Did this today. It's like microsurgery. Too bad I couldn't find a whole [working] door. 1 pin, 4 bolts, & a two piece electrical connector would make this a 5 minute job.
Hi. I used ur video. But now when that door locks, all others unlock amd the other way around. What might be the problem?
It's not the first time I've heard of this issue. The door lock actuator you bought was wired backwards the power and ground wires on the keyed connector have been inserted in the wrong places on the connector.
The actuator locks and unlocks by turning a motor clockwise and counterclockwise. To reverse the motors direction you simply swap which wire goes to battery positive and battery negative (ground).
Swap the two wires power and ground on the actuator side of the connector and the motor will operate properly.
You will need a small screwdriver to release the contacts from the plastic housing. When you reinsert them they should click into place.
Just curious this is an aftermarket actuator right? Because I've never had an issue like this using the OEM actuators.
@@Bushougoma Yep aftermarket...I currently have the same issue. Figured it was wired backwards. Thanks for confirmation.
I appreciate this video bro @ bushu
I have a 94 Honda Accord lx Coupe and just installed 1A AUTO passenger door actuator and the lock is working in reverse. I sure do not feel like taking everything apart again. Can it be fixed by switching the wires of the connector at the door handle? There are 3 wires in the connector. What do you suggest?
The lock switch goes to a door lock control module and not directly to the actuators themselves swapping those wires will make the passenger door work properly but then all of the other doors will work in reverse.
This isn't the first time I've heard this I guess there's a bad batch of aftermarket actuators out there improperly assembled.
The actuator is a DC motor with a 2 wire connector the direction of rotation (lock and unlock) is determined by which of the two wires battery positive and negative is applied to by the door lock control module. Since the connector can only be inserted one way it's critical that the wires (terminals) be inserted into the connector in the right location at the factory to prevent the actuator from operating in reverse.
Swap the 2 female terminals around in the actuator connector and it will operate properly.
This is done (depending on connector design) by either depressing a tab or pulling back a tab with a small screwdriver inside the connector while gently pulling on the wire. It will be apparent how to release the terminals when looking into the connector with a flashlight.
You can then pull the metal terminals out from the rear of the connector and reinsert them in the right position they will click into place when fully inserted.
Thanks for your first reply to my first message. I tried to disconnect the connector terminals but they were too hard to get the metal connectors out of the grey connector and that is why I spliced the positive and negative wires and used electrical tape after reversing the 2 wires. The connector wire clips are very fragile and I was concerned that I would damage the wire clips that go into the 2 prong connector so I felt splicing and using electrical tape was easier with avoiding the possibility of damaging the wires, their clips and the connector. I really appreciate your videos and knowledge. Do you have a video for changing the left front axle grease boots? I only have 144k miles on my 94 accord coupe. My mechanic told me I should not worry about the axle boot being torn and exposed to the elements of driving. But I feel the axle boot holds the grease in for a good reason. Any of your thoughts are very much appreciated. I live in Berkeley, CA. I am trying to keep my car running up to 300k miles, hopefully. Thanks so much. Gina
I have a question hopefully some on can answer quickly. But to the point. I put on a new door and I don’t know what’s going on but all the doors lock except for the drivers side door lock. I can see it trying to go down but then it’ll pop right back up and still be unlocked. Could it be the pin on the that’s not in all the way and not allow the drivers side door to lock correctly or something else???? Help please
You'll have to remove the inner trim panel to see what's going on.
If you can lock the door manually then check to make sure the actuator is installed properly and the plastic actuator arm that attaches to the latch is moving the whole way when the lock and unlock switch is pressed.
If the door won't lock manually you'll need to inspect the latch itself for damage also make sure the linkages (latch to outer handle, latch to inner handle, and latch to the manual lock / unlock pin) are routed properly and aren't bent or damaged.
Bushougoma I can push the lock down but it does lock maybe it’s the actuator that’s not working properly or it’s caught up on something.
There aren't too many things it could be then either the actuator isn't attached properly to the latch or the actuator is bad.
my car got same problem..thanks
I recently replaced my passenger car door lock actuator but every time I lock it, the other doors unlock and when I lock the other doors, the passenger side unlocks. I need help what do I do
The new actuator has the polarity reversed to the motor this is very common on cheap aftermarket units. While the plastic connector is keyed and can only go in one way the terminals can be inserted the wrong way.
You will need to depin the connector. Remove the terminals from the female actuator half of the connector and reinsert them in the opposite positions.
@@Bushougoma is there a video for this? I’m new to this whole car fixing thing and I have no clue what you said sorry.
@@JoobyXD Remove the two wires out of the plastic actuator connector housing and swap them around. It's called depinning a connector.
@@Bushougoma I don’t know how to depin connectors, I searched it up but still can’t find the right one
Is it the same procedure for the rear door?
It's similar.
Is it the same part number for the front passenger and rear right passenger door for 97 Honda Accord se
How does the actuator get so loud when it fails?
This video will explain it:
th-cam.com/video/S9owhqr93Xw/w-d-xo.html
I got a very bad luck, I got 2 doors that had bad actuators. 1 driver door and 1
rear door.
Good video