Hello Friend, So nice of you to have made all these videos. They are interesting to watch even if one does not have the specific camera the video is about. My first film camera was the Konica Auto S2, which I bought new back in the 60's. It went everywhere. We did a lot of backpacking and canoeing (still do) and it was always with me. I have digitized over 1000 slides from it. I still have the camera and also the next camera I purchased ...the Konica Autoreflex nT3. Again, I've digitized all the old slides and negatives from that too. I used that one both casually and professionally and I still have it. I just bought some LR44 batteries. I put 2 in the nT3 and tested the exposure reading with a light meter. I found if I increase the ISO selected on the camera, the needle reading is right on. With 2/3 of a stop. When I last used the Auto S2, I used similar batteries, but I fashioned a little collar out of a rubber washer, to fit in the battery chamber and ensure the LR44 battery fits snugly. I still have 6 rolls of film in the freezer and I'm going to take the cameras out for a test. The Auto S2's range finder got misaligned once and I somehow managed to fix it but I can't remember what I did. (I'll be 78 on the 29th so some memories have slipped a bit. Earlier today when I was testing the Autoreflex nT3, the shutter seemed to stick after trying the self timer, which did not work. I had to either take the lens off and put it back on, or push the self timer/DOF preview lever toward the lens, to get the shutter to fire. That was using the Hexanon 50mm 1.4. I then tried it with a Vivitar 28mm 1.8, and with a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 Macro Zoom lens and got the same results. When I depress the shutter it seems to start working then it freezes. Looks like I should not have tried the self timer. I'm wondering if you might have any advice relating to that, and any suggestion as to how to get it working properly again? Sure hope you are still enjoying this stuff and hope to hear back from you about this. In the meantime, all the best to you and yours for the Holiday Season and the New Year.
About the battery, I tested my S2 and S1.6 with L44R battery inside brass adapter. Meters on S2 and S1.6 are NOT affected by voltage difference. These are phenomenal cameras!
If you focus on the important stuff the background noise will disappear. Reading these comments made me rewatch to see what people were commenting about.
@@tomjanowski8584 yeah lol I don't get it either. I mean, when the video first started I said _whoa, those are loud,_ but then as he started talking I completely tuned them out. I find it way harder to focus when there's other people talking than when its "white noise" like this
What do you think of the Konica C35? I was stationed in the Philippines in the 70's me and a buddy took some leave and caught a hop to Japan. I picked up a Nikon F2 and a couple of lenses for a months pay. Love the camera but it was to much to carry when I would just be running around town so I picked up a C35 at the BX. It has a nice little rangefinder that fit in a pocket. It was for snapshots as I remember the lens wasn't particularly sharp but I wasn't blowing the photos up to 8x10. I've never seen a review on the C35, I often think of picking one up but I have around 20 film cameras and it can't hold a candle to my Olympus XA which is even smaller.
There were a couple models of the C35, the regular model, which was a rangefinder, and anther version, the EL, which was a scale focus camera. The lens in either are quite good, but you'll get more accurate focusing with the rangefinder version. There is yet another C35, the FD (called the Auto S3 outside Japan), with the faster f/1.8 lens, these are great performers, they are arguably better than the Olympus XA, but they are quite hard to find in working order, and are expensive.
Hello from NY! Your videos are so helpful, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I have a Konica Auto S2, which my dad gave me as a child, and on which I learned the basics of photography. I had not used the camera for many years, and I've run into a few issues, that I wonder if you could provide your insight. First, and most importantly, as you mention astutely in this video, the self-timer lever can be quite fussy. It seems that mine has locked-up, such that I cannot advance the camera nor take any exposures. Is there a way to fix this? I really hope it is not a lost cause!
Thanks for your message. The problem may not be the timer, but that the shutter may be sticking. Before trying to fix the self timer, you should first see if the shutter is stuck. I have a video showing how to unstick a Konica Auto S 1.6, which is basically the same camera as the Auto S2. If the shutter is working, you can apply some lighter fluid to the self timer lever, and hold the camera so gravity pulls the fluid down the lever to the self timer. This often frees it up. As a last resort, the self timer lever can be nudged or forced back to the disengaged position, or removed altogether. Good luck with your camera!
Thank you very much for a thorough introduction to the Konica Auto S, sir. I inherited a mint Auto S from my late father, and have 2 questions for you: 1- There are the words "MADE IN JAPAN" along with (probably serial number) "652168" on the right to the viewfinder if you look at it from the back of the camera; 2- The printed ASA number only goes to 200 instead of 400. I'm really curious about the discrepancies and wonder if this camera is somehow from an abnormal batch. I'd really appreciate your answers if you can provide them. Thank you very much sir, and best of luck to your life and business. 🙏
The Auto S is a great camera, and many were made. During production changes occurred, and it is not unusual fo find differences between others identical cameras. I have often found this out the hard when when I buy a parts camera for the repair of someone else's camera, and then find that though the cameras are the same make and model, the parts do not interchange. Take care of your camera, and try to put it to good use, it might surprise you.
There can be two causes, either a blockage of the aperture ring, or the aperture blades themselves are stuck, due to oil or rust. You can remove the front ring and front lens group, the method is similar tot the video I made of the Konica S2, then you can find if anything is jamming the aperture ring. If the problem is the shutter blades or otherwise internal, it will need major surgery.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Friend, So nice of you to have made all these videos. They are interesting to watch even if one does not have the specific camera the video is about. My first film camera was the Konica Auto S2, which I bought new back in the 60's. It went everywhere. We did a lot of backpacking and canoeing (still do) and it was always with me. I have digitized over 1000 slides from it. I still have the camera and also the next camera I purchased ...the Konica Autoreflex nT3. Again, I've digitized all the old slides and negatives from that too. I used that one both casually and professionally and I still have it.
I just bought some LR44 batteries. I put 2 in the nT3 and tested the exposure reading with a light meter. I found if I increase the ISO selected on the camera, the needle reading is right on. With 2/3 of a stop. When I last used the Auto S2, I used similar batteries, but I fashioned a little collar out of a rubber washer, to fit in the battery chamber and ensure the LR44 battery fits snugly. I still have 6 rolls of film in the freezer and I'm going to take the cameras out for a test.
The Auto S2's range finder got misaligned once and I somehow managed to fix it but I can't remember what I did. (I'll be 78 on the 29th so some memories have slipped a bit.
Earlier today when I was testing the Autoreflex nT3, the shutter seemed to stick after trying the self timer, which did not work. I had to either take the lens off and put it back on, or push the self timer/DOF preview lever toward the lens, to get the shutter to fire. That was using the Hexanon 50mm 1.4. I then tried it with a Vivitar 28mm 1.8, and with a Vivitar Series 1 70-210 Macro Zoom lens and got the same results. When I depress the shutter it seems to start working then it freezes. Looks like I should not have tried the self timer. I'm wondering if you might have any advice relating to that, and any suggestion as to how to get it working properly again?
Sure hope you are still enjoying this stuff and hope to hear back from you about this. In the meantime, all the best to you and yours for the Holiday Season and the New Year.
About the battery, I tested my S2 and S1.6 with L44R battery inside brass adapter. Meters on S2 and S1.6 are NOT affected by voltage difference. These are phenomenal cameras!
Great library of excellent reviews. Same as the Wards am 550 with a HEXAR 47mm 1:1.9 lens.
Too much noise, can barely hear your voice. Sincerely, you should change locations in situations like this.
Montgomery Wards in the USA sold the identical camera as a Wards AM 550.
The audio is fine. I'll make sure to check the website for new cameras. Thanks
Yeah, the audio is fine... if the only thing that you want to hear is the cicadas.
If you focus on the important stuff the background noise will disappear. Reading these comments made me rewatch to see what people were commenting about.
@@tomjanowski8584 yeah lol I don't get it either. I mean, when the video first started I said _whoa, those are loud,_ but then as he started talking I completely tuned them out. I find it way harder to focus when there's other people talking than when its "white noise" like this
What do you think of the Konica C35? I was stationed in the Philippines in the 70's me and a buddy took some leave and caught a hop to Japan. I picked up a Nikon F2 and a couple of lenses for a months pay. Love the camera but it was to much to carry when I would just be running around town so I picked up a C35 at the BX. It has a nice little rangefinder that fit in a pocket. It was for snapshots as I remember the lens wasn't particularly sharp but I wasn't blowing the photos up to 8x10. I've never seen a review on the C35, I often think of picking one up but I have around 20 film cameras and it can't hold a candle to my Olympus XA which is even smaller.
There were a couple models of the C35, the regular model, which was a rangefinder, and anther version, the EL, which was a scale focus camera. The lens in either are quite good, but you'll get more accurate focusing with the rangefinder version. There is yet another C35, the FD (called the Auto S3 outside Japan), with the faster f/1.8 lens, these are great performers, they are arguably better than the Olympus XA, but they are quite hard to find in working order, and are expensive.
Hello from NY! Your videos are so helpful, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I have a Konica Auto S2, which my dad gave me as a child, and on which I learned the basics of photography. I had not used the camera for many years, and I've run into a few issues, that I wonder if you could provide your insight. First, and most importantly, as you mention astutely in this video, the self-timer lever can be quite fussy. It seems that mine has locked-up, such that I cannot advance the camera nor take any exposures. Is there a way to fix this? I really hope it is not a lost cause!
Thanks for your message. The problem may not be the timer, but that the shutter may be sticking. Before trying to fix the self timer, you should first see if the shutter is stuck. I have a video showing how to unstick a Konica Auto S 1.6, which is basically the same camera as the Auto S2. If the shutter is working, you can apply some lighter fluid to the self timer lever, and hold the camera so gravity pulls the fluid down the lever to the self timer. This often frees it up. As a last resort, the self timer lever can be nudged or forced back to the disengaged position, or removed altogether. Good luck with your camera!
Thank you very much for a thorough introduction to the Konica Auto S, sir. I inherited a mint Auto S from my late father, and have 2 questions for you: 1- There are the words "MADE IN JAPAN" along with (probably serial number) "652168" on the right to the viewfinder if you look at it from the back of the camera; 2- The printed ASA number only goes to 200 instead of 400. I'm really curious about the discrepancies and wonder if this camera is somehow from an abnormal batch. I'd really appreciate your answers if you can provide them. Thank you very much sir, and best of luck to your life and business. 🙏
The Auto S is a great camera, and many were made. During production changes occurred, and it is not unusual fo find differences between others identical cameras. I have often found this out the hard when when I buy a parts camera for the repair of someone else's camera, and then find that though the cameras are the same make and model, the parts do not interchange. Take care of your camera, and try to put it to good use, it might surprise you.
@@japanvintagecamera8869 Thank you very much for your great answer, sir. Rest assured it will be well taken care of. You have a wonderful day! 🙏
Good review . 🙏
I got headache of noises 😂
What do you search for if you’d like the Adaptor if you decide to go for the lr44 battery?
Should i be able to see the aperature move inside the lens when i adjust the apuriture any advice i should see it moving correct?
Too bad your ebay store is inactive.
If you find one that have a stuck aperture ring. Would you do a video showing how to fix it? Mine seem to be stuck at f11 Ish
There can be two causes, either a blockage of the aperture ring, or the aperture blades themselves are stuck, due to oil or rust. You can remove the front ring and front lens group, the method is similar tot the video I made of the Konica S2, then you can find if anything is jamming the aperture ring. If the problem is the shutter blades or otherwise internal, it will need major surgery.
The audio is fine, however there is about 2 minutes of no video or audio at the beginning of the video.