You installed the drive side seal in the wrong direction. Referencing the OMC Recreational Outboard Service Manual, Section 4, page 33, "Install seal in the crankcase head, lip facing down,...". This is the direction that you found the old one installed. It was correct. The function of this seal is to prevent the positive pressured hot, wet, exhaust gas from entering the negative pressurized crankcase. Otherwise, an absolutely excellent series of videos. Thanks!
To clarify Bruno's take. The confusion is related to the lower crankshaft seal orientation. On 1990 Johnson there are 2 seals. One is a smaller size lower crank seal and the other is upper crank seal. They are both installed in exhaust manifold in the Lip up position. Facing toward bottom of motor. Now there is another crank seal below flywheel also called upper seal. But this one is installed lip down. You have to read the Johnson Evinrude Service Manual close but its the correct orientation. 3 seals in all. 2 up , 1 down.
thanks for the vid, getting everything ready to do my 92 9.9... I think it was re ringed or rep pistoned before, because the rods are marked 1 and 2 with a engraver.. I measured the inside of the cylinders diameter and they are factory spec., I guess the rings wear faster than the cylinder walls on 2 stroke engines providing they get the correct fuel mix.
Educational video. 2 thumbs up. If you can show links to the parts at wholesale marine. That would be great. Saves on the leg work for fixing the exact same engine. Again thank you so much.
The "angled, weird version" of the exhaust housing gasket is actually for the 14 HP, built in 1988 & 89 only; models VE14RCCS & VJ14RCEC respectively. The "squarey version" is the typical exhaust housing gasket for all 9.9s & 15s, but is also used as the clylinder crankcase to lower engine cover gasket on those models, which, I believe were built for foreign markets at the time. Not sure why it's included in the powerhead gasket set considering its oddball status. Ted Sanford, FL
I am needing to change gasket in between powerhead and lower unit. It is leaking water especially under higher rpms. After it warms up and leaks water the motor starts running poorly and dies and is hard to get started again. Would the water leak cause this or do I have another problem to chase down? 1975 evinrude 15
Great series, thanks! Sure wish my 15 hp had that electric start and charging system. Not common here in San Diego area at all, so very expensive to get everything needed. Could those water pipe seals be slid up from the bottom of the tubes, then over the lip on the tubes? Is the only way to replace those seals to remove the powerhead so you can take the exhaust housing off? (I want to shorten the tubes on a 1960 40hp Evinrude Lark II, but hate to just cut the long shaft tubes off. Thanks, RichE
Where do you think I got my 15 HP Electric starts? San Diego, all of them. A lot of sail-boats down there. a lot of sail master 9.9/15's; which are usually electric start. When you look for one don't look for only electric start, most of the time that wont be mentioned. Get picture from under the hood and determine for youself.
Brandon thanks a ton for this series it helped me rebuild an 84 9.9 HP. I recently just got it mostly put back together and have a question. It is really tough to turn over. I can turn the flywheel with one hand, but not easily. The electric start even struggles. It does have good compression as I cant hold a finger over the plug hole, but gauge is only reading 40 psi I am assuming because it is turning over so slowly. Is this common for a fresh rebuild or do you think I did something wrong? What are some things I should check.
@@BrandonsGarage Thank you for the reply. I took it apart and you pretty much called it. I pulled the powerhead off again and removed the cover that goes over the lower part of the crank shaft and it spins fine without that on there. When i reinstalled those new seals I must not have driven them in far enough and they were rubbing on the bottom of the crank bearing. Need to order up another gasket set though as when you put that sealing compound on, there aint no saving them. Thank you again, and I love your channel. You have actually inspired me to work on some other outboards as well. Keep em coming.
I'm wondering the same thing, does anyone have an answer? I was hoping the video would talk about or show where the exhaust water tube goes. My tube is much longer than the one in the video.
why did you put the permatex no. 2 on the outside of that shaft? shouldnt it go on the inside since thats what the driveshaft goes into? im curious because im currently trying to get my 9.9/15 johnson hybrid working again :)
I'm ready to put the power head back in but I dont have a series of holes to choose from where you put the water tube. Mine is a 77 9.9 is there a difference?
What is the name of the seal you're replacing at about the 50 second mark? I couldn't quite get it. I'm about to pull my power head and am trying to learn everything I can prior to doing so. Thanks.
@@Remydelco I have a true 15hp on a 16' aluminum job goes about 15-16mph. A 9.9 with a 15hp carb goes about 12-13 mph. I think you may lose 1-2 hp with the 9.9 exhaust. Just my experience. But. Brandon is the MAN. He will know way more.
@@Remydelco I thought my comment went through, my apologies. You may gain 1-2mph with the 15 horse exhaust. But go on marineengine.com check the part numbers for 1977. They may be the same exhaust
@@timothytacner4865 thanks bud! Thinking I might slap the carb on and see how it goes I'm putting it on a 12 footer and I think I may be over powering it as it is but I'm hoping to find a 14 or 16' someday
Hey Brandon question for you got a 15 hp carb for the 9.9 i rebuilt for 90 bucks good deal ? How much should i sell the 9.9 carb i pull 150 ? Its been rebuilt also
I highly doubt it will ever cause a problem, but the sake of detail in an otherwise very good tutorial... the order you installed the flat washers at 12:32 defeats the whole purpose of combining two different sized washers, because the surface area beyond the outside diameter of the small washer is just floating in the air not making contact with anything above or below therefore it isn't providing the intended benefit of having a small hole in a large washer similar to the design and purpose of a fender washer so the way you did it is no better than using the small washers without the large washers.
What a great video. Not too many people take so much pride in their work anymore.
You installed the drive side seal in the wrong direction. Referencing the OMC Recreational Outboard Service Manual, Section 4, page 33, "Install seal in the crankcase head, lip facing down,...". This is the direction that you found the old one installed. It was correct. The function of this seal is to prevent the positive pressured hot, wet, exhaust gas from entering the negative pressurized crankcase. Otherwise, an absolutely excellent series of videos. Thanks!
To clarify Bruno's take. The confusion is related to the lower crankshaft seal orientation. On 1990 Johnson there are 2 seals. One is a smaller size lower crank seal and the other is upper crank seal. They are both installed in exhaust manifold in the Lip up position. Facing toward bottom of motor. Now there is another crank seal below flywheel also called upper seal. But this one is installed lip down. You have to read the Johnson Evinrude Service Manual close but its the correct orientation.
3 seals in all. 2 up , 1 down.
If you have only one seal (older engines), the lip faces down.
thanks for the vid, getting everything ready to do my 92 9.9... I think it was re ringed or rep pistoned before, because the rods are marked 1 and 2 with a engraver.. I measured the inside of the cylinders diameter and they are factory spec., I guess the rings wear faster than the cylinder walls on 2 stroke engines providing they get the correct fuel mix.
Love the interaction and straight forward howvtoos , use, rebuild repeat, you have done a very good job for the do it yourself guy everywhere
Educational video. 2 thumbs up.
If you can show links to the parts at wholesale marine.
That would be great. Saves on the leg work for fixing the exact same engine.
Again thank you so much.
Excellent video!
The "angled, weird version" of the exhaust housing gasket is actually for the 14 HP, built in 1988 & 89 only; models VE14RCCS & VJ14RCEC respectively. The "squarey version" is the typical exhaust housing gasket for all 9.9s & 15s, but is also used as the clylinder crankcase to lower engine cover gasket on those models, which, I believe were built for foreign markets at the time. Not sure why it's included in the powerhead gasket set considering its oddball status.
Ted
Sanford, FL
I am needing to change gasket in between powerhead and lower unit. It is leaking water especially under higher rpms. After it warms up and leaks water the motor starts running poorly and dies and is hard to get started again. Would the water leak cause this or do I have another problem to chase down? 1975 evinrude 15
check the motor mounts once you have the power head off.
It took me an hour to align the water tube -.- is there a trick to it? You can’t really see what’s going on
Great series, thanks! Sure wish my 15 hp had that electric start and charging system. Not common here in San Diego area at all, so very expensive to get everything needed.
Could those water pipe seals be slid up from the bottom of the tubes, then over the lip on the tubes?
Is the only way to replace those seals to remove the powerhead so you can take the exhaust housing off? (I want to shorten the tubes on a 1960 40hp Evinrude Lark II, but hate to just cut the long shaft tubes off.
Thanks,
RichE
Where do you think I got my 15 HP Electric starts?
San Diego, all of them.
A lot of sail-boats down there. a lot of sail master 9.9/15's; which are usually electric start.
When you look for one don't look for only electric start, most of the time that wont be mentioned. Get picture from under the hood and determine for youself.
1992 15 HP Johnson.
Can you tell me what the torque specs are for mounting powerhead to exhaust housing??
7 ft-lbs, 84 in-lbs.
@@TheSudburyboy Thank you very much.
Why didn't you do the other seal in the bearing collar while you were in there? most kits come with both..
His year of engine (older ones) had only one seal. Install with the lip facing down as the manual says.
Brandon thanks a ton for this series it helped me rebuild an 84 9.9 HP. I recently just got it mostly put back together and have a question. It is really tough to turn over. I can turn the flywheel with one hand, but not easily. The electric start even struggles. It does have good compression as I cant hold a finger over the plug hole, but gauge is only reading 40 psi I am assuming because it is turning over so slowly. Is this common for a fresh rebuild or do you think I did something wrong? What are some things I should check.
take the lower off and see if the problem continues, and/or plugs
but a crankshaft bearing could be out of alignment, when the crankcase halves went back together It could be pinching it.
@@BrandonsGarage Thank you for the reply. I took it apart and you pretty much called it. I pulled the powerhead off again and removed the cover that goes over the lower part of the crank shaft and it spins fine without that on there. When i reinstalled those new seals I must not have driven them in far enough and they were rubbing on the bottom of the crank bearing.
Need to order up another gasket set though as when you put that sealing compound on, there aint no saving them.
Thank you again, and I love your channel. You have actually inspired me to work on some other outboards as well. Keep em coming.
have an 87 15HP Evinrude. Wondering if the rear tube goes in the small oblong hole in the exhaust housing cavity or just in the center large cavity.
I'm wondering the same thing, does anyone have an answer? I was hoping the video would talk about or show where the exhaust water tube goes. My tube is much longer than the one in the video.
why did you put the permatex no. 2 on the outside of that shaft? shouldnt it go on the inside since thats what the driveshaft goes into? im curious because im currently trying to get my 9.9/15 johnson hybrid working again :)
ignore me - I thought that was on the bottom of the power head
Anyone have a tip on removing the old caked on gasket thats a bare to remove?
I'm ready to put the power head back in but I dont have a series of holes to choose from where you put the water tube. Mine is a 77 9.9 is there a difference?
What is the name of the seal you're replacing at about the 50 second mark? I couldn't quite get it. I'm about to pull my power head and am trying to learn everything I can prior to doing so. Thanks.
CRANK CASE HEAD SEAL-
If yours is a 1983 and prior, you'll only have one.
There are two on 1984 and newer engines; Lower and Upper.
Okay. Thanks. Mine is an 82 15HP.
Do any of your videos explain how and what needs to be disconnected in order to pull the Power Head? I'm not sure where to start? Thanks.
Greg H th-cam.com/video/c9s8i-MDeCc/w-d-xo.html here is his video check out my channel if you could consider subscribing!!
Rebuilding a 77 9.9 I'm wondering if I should bother w the exhaust swap along w my new 15 carb.?
I did it without swapping the exhaust. I can tell.
@@timothytacner4865 you can tell or cant??
@@Remydelco I have a true 15hp on a 16' aluminum job goes about 15-16mph. A 9.9 with a 15hp carb goes about 12-13 mph. I think you may lose 1-2 hp with the 9.9 exhaust. Just my experience. But. Brandon is the MAN. He will know way more.
@@Remydelco I thought my comment went through, my apologies. You may gain 1-2mph with the 15 horse exhaust. But go on marineengine.com check the part numbers for 1977. They may be the same exhaust
@@timothytacner4865 thanks bud! Thinking I might slap the carb on and see how it goes I'm putting it on a 12 footer and I think I may be over powering it as it is but I'm hoping to find a 14 or 16' someday
Hey Brandon question for you got a 15 hp carb for the 9.9 i rebuilt for 90 bucks good deal ? How much should i sell the 9.9 carb i pull 150 ? Its been rebuilt also
I highly doubt it will ever cause a problem, but the sake of detail in an otherwise very good tutorial... the order you installed the flat washers at 12:32 defeats the whole purpose of combining two different sized washers, because the surface area beyond the outside diameter of the small washer is just floating in the air not making contact with anything above or below therefore it isn't providing the intended benefit of having a small hole in a large washer similar to the design and purpose of a fender washer so the way you did it is no better than using the small washers without the large washers.
Well, that is how the factory called for it to be.
Also, the rubber mounts kind of have a step in them to accommodate.
those damn rubber grommets are 14,00 each plus shipping
smhhhhh
12.14
Johnson very good ENGINE BUT I LIKE YAMAHA