Hey, late to the party on this one, but you can make those wax pickles out of old foam dust and fine meshed pantyhose, cheaper and works just as good. Keep up the great content ✌️
Would you ever consider being a virtual ding repair consultant lol? Never repaired a board before and I want to attempt it, though it’s a nice board and I’d want to do a good job first time around, so had a few questions and would appreciate some guidance if that’s something you could be into
Yes, since this ding was on the rail, there were two layers of different color (tint and clear) fiberglass. This is because of the “lap” or the overhanging fiberglass that gets wrapped around the rails when both sides of the board get glassed. On the deck, you will most commonly find two layers of the same color. Hope that makes sense!
@@Rogue_wave It does thank you! So would you advise the same process for a ding on the deck? Sand off the first layer of fiberglass and replace it with a new layer?
Hey there- they make stuff called "ding tape" that is better for cracks you don't need to fill! I haven't used it but have heard good things. Good luck.
Sometimes the natural yellowing of the gloss coat on top lands up being more yellow than the cured UV resin. Against a newer whiter board it might show up but on older colour boards UV resin will probably appear brighter. Another thing that helps is curing the UV resin in sunlight rather than a UV light. Couldn't tell you why personally but I can definitely say it makes a difference to how yellow it goes.
What I do not understand: why is it not possible do just sand the delaminating outer fibers (without sanding this layer completely away) and re-glass it with the resin? The Resin should penetrate the fibers and the Layer again and harden/ glass it all in one single step? This would be a lot easyer and looking better in the end? Why do you always 1. sand the first layer of fibers completely away and then 2. attach a new cloth? What makes the new cloth "better" than the old, delaminated one? Maybe you could make a video that explains it for "self-rescuing-rookies"?
Hey Joe- a lot of reasons. Mainly, the old fiberglass has already been saturated with resin, so once it separates from the board, it will never become transparent again. You could pour resin over the crack, which is what a lot of people try to do, but doing so rarely results in correct saturation of the damages area with resin. What usually happens is that it just coats the outside of the ding, and usually chips away becuase the surface wasnt prepped correctly (cleaned and sanded).
Just bought a used board, thanks for the tips to restore.
Hey, late to the party on this one, but you can make those wax pickles out of old foam dust and fine meshed pantyhose, cheaper and works just as good. Keep up the great content ✌️
Is this a polyester surfboard ?
Would you ever consider being a virtual ding repair consultant lol? Never repaired a board before and I want to attempt it, though it’s a nice board and I’d want to do a good job first time around, so had a few questions and would appreciate some guidance if that’s something you could be into
For hire of course
Definitely! Text me at 310 7 five 3 five664
Awesome vids. Are the two layers from two different coats of fiberglass?
Yes, since this ding was on the rail, there were two layers of different color (tint and clear) fiberglass. This is because of the “lap” or the overhanging fiberglass that gets wrapped around the rails when both sides of the board get glassed. On the deck, you will most commonly find two layers of the same color. Hope that makes sense!
@@Rogue_wave It does thank you! So would you advise the same process for a ding on the deck? Sand off the first layer of fiberglass and replace it with a new layer?
With a very small crack on the board , not breaking deep at all, would I just sand a little bit to roughen up edges and then apply solarez?
Hey there- they make stuff called "ding tape" that is better for cracks you don't need to fill! I haven't used it but have heard good things. Good luck.
@@Rogue_wave thanks , I’ll check it out
hey ou trouver le produit pour polir à la fin et quel papier utiliser pour poncer après ? merci bcp
It’s called fiberglass polish #2 from fiberglass source.
Usually solarez is clear or yellowish did you add any color to this or just sanded through the top glass leaving the color underneatg
Sometimes the natural yellowing of the gloss coat on top lands up being more yellow than the cured UV resin. Against a newer whiter board it might show up but on older colour boards UV resin will probably appear brighter. Another thing that helps is curing the UV resin in sunlight rather than a UV light. Couldn't tell you why personally but I can definitely say it makes a difference to how yellow it goes.
Beautiful
Thanks Felipe!
What I do not understand: why is it not possible do just sand the delaminating outer fibers (without sanding this layer completely away) and re-glass it with the resin? The Resin should penetrate the fibers and the Layer again and harden/ glass it all in one single step? This would be a lot easyer and looking better in the end? Why do you always 1. sand the first layer of fibers completely away and then 2. attach a new cloth? What makes the new cloth "better" than the old, delaminated one? Maybe you could make a video that explains it for "self-rescuing-rookies"?
Hey Joe- a lot of reasons. Mainly, the old fiberglass has already been saturated with resin, so once it separates from the board, it will never become transparent again. You could pour resin over the crack, which is what a lot of people try to do, but doing so rarely results in correct saturation of the damages area with resin. What usually happens is that it just coats the outside of the ding, and usually chips away becuase the surface wasnt prepped correctly (cleaned and sanded).
Nice 😊
You can polish a terd, but it’s still a terd
Good thing I’m not in the business of differentiating what is and isn’t a turd ;)
That board looks sick, what are you goin on about?